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Beautiful guitar mate, definitely better without the poker chip. Thanks for the tip!

Makes no difference. However can improve tuning stability with less angle on bridge.

When i looked at mine I noticed that the height of the individual strings were all different when looked under the first fret. On my Les Paul Classic. So, I did one string at the time by loosing it, move it out of the way and use a string of the same size to sand down the nut. You can can rough up any string with sand paper. That way, you get the right cut in the nut and because it takes a bit more times, it is less likely that you go too deep. If you do than use baking soda and super glue mix to refill it. It will work until you decide if you see fit to change it.

Hold on...how TF are you playing all 3 pickups..? Unless you rewired the thing...

Where can I get a jeweler's file like the one you used to work on the nut? Almost looks more like a good quality saw blade than a file. BTW, I bought a similar guitar on sale from Monoprice. I don't hate it but the action is bad due to problems with the nut (slot depth/nut height). Trem is also pretty bad, too tight, I haven't really been able to use it. Probably has same problems as yours.

Not meaning to be controversial, but cutting the nut to the height of the first fret seems like it would cause buzzing. Why don't you add more tape to be sure you have proper relief at the first fret?

If you are going that rout I suggest you assemble 6 feeler gauges of the required string thickness. Clamp them together and cut teeth with a cut off blade on a 4-1/4 grinder. These blades will be stiffer than the jewelers blade. I have made 190 guitars with this method. That is untll I started making all my guitars with a zero fret.

That nut looks terrible.

Don't go down so far with the blades. Get close to that, then you gotta polish your work. Use thread. Cotton or wool is what I recommend. You wind the thread as needed to get the desired thickness for each string slot. Same motion used as when filing. Back and forth, slow and steady. You don't want any rough bumps or anything that can snag or break the string. Polishing is essential, and remember you will continue to lose material as you go. It's like cooking. Even though the meat might not be up to temp yet, it will continue to cook and temperature will rise even after removal from the heat source. Planning ahead and paying attention is key.

Use a peice of fretvwire with the tang ground off

Whatever your rec with its warble city.

DO not buy these if you plan to gig...they are not well built. If it's staying put it's good sounding amp.

What a waiste of tape!

Good quality tuners are just as good as most locking tuners, once you own a few guitars and learn how to restring a guitar they are less important. The convenience is wonderful and makes for really quick string changes, but how often is that a factor?

For me, the lower the stop bar the better. However, you don't want the strings touching the bridge frame edges because of a sharp bridge-to-stop bar angle. Adjustment is simple - raise the stop bar until the strings touch nothing other than the bridge blocks. Just a paper thickness clearance between string and bridge frame is sufficient to prevent tuning and buzzing problems.

The physics is all wrong here. String tension is will always be exactly the same for a given string gauge and pitch. The reason raising the tailpiece makes bending easier is there is less friction at the bridge so when you bend the string can slide over the bridge and give a softer feel to bending. You do not need to adjust the truss rod after adjusting the tailpiece. Also, screwing the tailpiece all the way down doesn’t increase sustain, in fact it puts unnecessary stress on the bridge.

You leaving slack is a mistake. That's why your wrap is loose. You have no break angle too. Thanks for showing how not to do it.

Very nice 👍

Good video never thaught about patrolium jelly. I’ve always used #2 pencil lead. Aka graphite

Just cut a pencil in half

The best way to do this is to put your finger between the 2nd and 3rd fret and press the string there. Check your distance between the string and 1st fret, should be very short distance. If not, needs to filed/sawed. I use hobby saw blades, the ones that fit in a handle. I carefully hold just the blade and saw the nut slot a bit then recheck height. For the larger nut slot I hold two blades together. Take you time. Works every time for me.

Anyone trying who needs to lower the nut height now knows what not to do after watching this video. Repeat. Do not do this. Ever. Learn the proper way.

Incorrect

You're supposed to do a full loop before putting it through the top hole.

Yeah, that don't even look right. Thanks for the effort though.

Why is it every time I file a nut the high E string pings at the nut when I pluck it open. 3 nuts in a row all other slots are perfect. Use size .09 strings and my nut file is .010.

You might wanna affix that tape across your T Shirt, and pull it off, first. Or get some low tack tape, specifically made for fretboards… for at least that first layer. That masking tape will really take off some of the finish on that fretboard.

That is NOT how to string the left side and the use of a screwdriver assures damage. You are a 'how not to' dunce.😢

You can wrap up the screwdriver in plastic to prevent damage to stop tail piece

therres a pedal most people dont know about Metal End King the BIG one - look for it its usuly around 80$ and its insanly good and superversitile

you should dial each pedal to be close to unity (same volume) that would be a good way to judge the distortion without judging the volume boost

you dont have your cabinet miced - so we cant hear anything

No. It is you that sound the same, not the pedals or any equipment.

No all distortion is not the same...

Rulers work better than popsicle sticks when it comes to measuring adjustments on your guitar 🤪

I don't think Dickie knew who the hell Steve Lukather was at the time .....Lukather was not prominently known I would presume in 1971 Great job BTW

Wow! This is the best lesson on this solo! Thanks a lot!

It helps to tin (twist then add solder) to the wire prior to soldering it to the input

So does it work? I watched the Guitar Max video about this same loaded pickguard and that one didn't work!

You were adjusting the truss rod without checking for straightness of the neck first (with a notched straight edge for guitars)? Truss rod isn't for adjusting the action at the 12th fret. That would be bridge height.

Is it correct to achieve 0.3mm between first fret and underneath the string holding it down on the 3rd fret

Here's how you do it completely wrong and stupid way to do this do not watch video it will make you dumb

Doing it that way looks difficult and wrong. I think you should wind the string around the shaft before inserting it through the second time 😁 and no need for that amount of slack and string wrapping

A most excellent and skillful demonstration of this amp! I've been searching RUclips for a demo like this. Just about everyone I'd come across showcase only the metal aspects of the 333XL... very annoying. Yes, we know it's a very capable metal amp, but it's like insisting a Vox AC30 can only be used to play jangly stuff. Not true as I've employed them for hard rock for years, and so have players far more capable than myself. Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together. You've gained a subscriber. Cheers to you! :)

Great video. Thank you

I bought these blades amd was afraid to use them ...i finally did onna cheap acos

Very helpful, thank you. I wondered if I was doing this right and am highly allergic to dust. With a dust mask and microfiber cloth, this should be a great solution.

Graphite in the slot is a much better lubricant than Vaseline

Does this really work? I don't understand why. Hows the physics work?

My les paul keep unwinding the high E string from the ball end in the little hole where it goes through on the stopbar. I can't tune it to pitch because the moment i do a bend the string just unwinds a little bit and goes out of tune. After that it just goes to hell. Can't be retuned without it slowly unwinding. Any help?