Is this feature available in the standard version or Pro only? I'm trying to advise a friend who is torn between a bigger Achromat or a smaller Apo and I wanted to suggest he try this first. If is available in the standard version he could try it out at no extra cost. I've searched the Sharpcap forums but can find no mention of it. I'm guessing it will be Pro only.
Is this feature only available with sharpcap pro or also with free version of sharpcap? Did you process the image taken straight with the camera and telescope or any filter is used to take like fringe killer or yellow filter
I believe it is a free feature, but I am not 100% certain, since I have a Pro license. You definitely want to use a filter to prevent color bleed of defocused blue light into the green and red channels. If you use an astro camera (as opposed to a DSLR or mirrorless) you also want to make sure you are blocking IR, since the achromat cannot focus that properly either and astro cameras are sensitive to it. So either the filter itself needs to block IR (like the fringe killer) or be stacked with an IR cut (like the #8 pale yellow). You only want something like a #8 pale yellow or at most a 495 long pass; you do not want to use a deep yellow filter as it guts the green channel and ruins the SNR and red-green color balance.
@@michaelpowen ok thanks. I am trying that yesterday using sharpcap free version and it is available in test cam 1. Btw using only uv ir cut filter or stacking uhc filter with a uv ir cut filter will work or not for this ?
Hey Michael I have a pre recorded video of Jupiter I have been wanting to stack. It’s 600 frames how do I go about getting it into sharpcap4.1? Right now I’m completely lost on how to do so. And I can’t find any knowledge anywhere could you also explain in a short video maybe 5-10 mins on how to process pre recorded clips, that would be the only video of its kind I know of! Thank you
If your video is a SER file, all you need to do is load it in the SharpCap Test Camera 2, which I have shown in videos on planetary live stacking. If it is not a SER file, you will need to convert it to SER format using PIPP.
Excellent!! Just subscribed!! Anyone know if this would work with an SVBONY SV231 Color Correction Filter on my Bresser 102/460 with a x0.8 reducer (f/3.6)?
Pale yellow (#8) should be ok but definitely do NOT use a deep yellow (#15). Also be careful; there are a lot of manufacturers, and some of the #8 "pale" filters out there look pretty deep yellow to me in their online pictures.
Neither of those should show significant chromatic aberration per se. However, there are cases where you might want to use this method with an SCT. For example, if you have the type of seeing that makes the blue channel significantly worse than the green or red (this is usually only relevant at longer focal length and critical sampling), or an optical defect that particularly affects the blue channel (like a rolled edge), this method could improve the image.
It depends on the scope. You should try it with just the uv/ir cut filter and make sure that your bloated blue halos don't simply turn into bloated halos of a different color. If they do, you will need a narrower band pass, like the William Optics VR-1 (sadly discontinued), Baader Fringe Killer, the new SVBONY SV231 Fringe Killer, a #8 pale yellow, or a Baader 495 Longpass filter. Some of these need to be stacked with an IR cut filter as they do not have an IR cut of their own (like the #8 and the 495 Longpass). Do NOT use a "UHC" or other "contrast" enhancing filters like the Baader "Semi-APO." These filters gut the green channel, destroy the red-green color balance, the luminosity, and the SNR.
Absolutely. It is done in preprocessing, so it will work in planetary, lunar, solar white light, deep sky, everything. And the correction is applied to the raw frames written to the disk as well.
Not yet. I'm mulling how best people can contribute a bit if they get some value out of my videos, but I'm not a big fan of paywalls and "premium content" and all of that. For now I guess the best way to support is the standard: like, share, subscribe, click the bell, all of that. Which I also hate the idea of asking people to do, but I guess you have to. I guess what I would like the most is for you to share and talk about the ideas with people and get them out there. And thank you very much for asking.
Not at all. The idea is not to replace expensive optics with cheap optics. More expensive optics will produce better images than cheap optics. For example, good luck finding a well matched reducer/flattener for a full frame sensor with your ST80. Instead, the goal is to improve the images that can be produced by less expensive optics, or even classic achromatic scopes, to increase the enjoyment of those with either modest or classic equipment, and lower the financial barriers to entry into the hobby.
Wow, that's really amazing - I will try your method with my old entry level Bresser Messier R 102 refractor ... thank you so much !
Hey; I realized I never responded to your comment. Thanks for the positive feedback. Did you end up giving it a try?
Is this feature available in the standard version or Pro only? I'm trying to advise a friend who is torn between a bigger Achromat or a smaller Apo and I wanted to suggest he try this first. If is available in the standard version he could try it out at no extra cost. I've searched the Sharpcap forums but can find no mention of it. I'm guessing it will be Pro only.
It's a free feature. :O)
Is this feature only available with sharpcap pro or also with free version of sharpcap? Did you process the image taken straight with the camera and telescope or any filter is used to take like fringe killer or yellow filter
I believe it is a free feature, but I am not 100% certain, since I have a Pro license. You definitely want to use a filter to prevent color bleed of defocused blue light into the green and red channels. If you use an astro camera (as opposed to a DSLR or mirrorless) you also want to make sure you are blocking IR, since the achromat cannot focus that properly either and astro cameras are sensitive to it. So either the filter itself needs to block IR (like the fringe killer) or be stacked with an IR cut (like the #8 pale yellow). You only want something like a #8 pale yellow or at most a 495 long pass; you do not want to use a deep yellow filter as it guts the green channel and ruins the SNR and red-green color balance.
@@michaelpowen ok thanks. I am trying that yesterday using sharpcap free version and it is available in test cam 1. Btw using only uv ir cut filter or stacking uhc filter with a uv ir cut filter will work or not for this ?
Hey Michael I have a pre recorded video of Jupiter I have been wanting to stack. It’s 600 frames how do I go about getting it into sharpcap4.1? Right now I’m completely lost on how to do so. And I can’t find any knowledge anywhere could you also explain in a short video maybe 5-10 mins on how to process pre recorded clips, that would be the only video of its kind I know of! Thank you
If your video is a SER file, all you need to do is load it in the SharpCap Test Camera 2, which I have shown in videos on planetary live stacking. If it is not a SER file, you will need to convert it to SER format using PIPP.
Excellent!! Just subscribed!! Anyone know if this would work with an SVBONY SV231 Color Correction Filter on my Bresser 102/460 with a x0.8 reducer (f/3.6)?
Yes, it should work.
Idk what will be your answer but can we use pale yellow or yellow planetary filters in this case ?
Pale yellow (#8) should be ok but definitely do NOT use a deep yellow (#15). Also be careful; there are a lot of manufacturers, and some of the #8 "pale" filters out there look pretty deep yellow to me in their online pictures.
Ok thanks for helping me
So this is not necessary for a SCT but what about a SCT with a HyperStar (lens attached ) or a SCT with FR attached!
Neither of those should show significant chromatic aberration per se. However, there are cases where you might want to use this method with an SCT. For example, if you have the type of seeing that makes the blue channel significantly worse than the green or red (this is usually only relevant at longer focal length and critical sampling), or an optical defect that particularly affects the blue channel (like a rolled edge), this method could improve the image.
If we use only uv ir cut filter it will work or not ? Or we have to use uv ir cut filter stacked with uhc filter
It depends on the scope. You should try it with just the uv/ir cut filter and make sure that your bloated blue halos don't simply turn into bloated halos of a different color. If they do, you will need a narrower band pass, like the William Optics VR-1 (sadly discontinued), Baader Fringe Killer, the new SVBONY SV231 Fringe Killer, a #8 pale yellow, or a Baader 495 Longpass filter. Some of these need to be stacked with an IR cut filter as they do not have an IR cut of their own (like the #8 and the 495 Longpass). Do NOT use a "UHC" or other "contrast" enhancing filters like the Baader "Semi-APO." These filters gut the green channel, destroy the red-green color balance, the luminosity, and the SNR.
@@michaelpowen thanks ❤
Can I use this feature during live stack?
Absolutely. It is done in preprocessing, so it will work in planetary, lunar, solar white light, deep sky, everything. And the correction is applied to the raw frames written to the disk as well.
@@michaelpowen Amazing tool!
Do you have a Patreon for support?
Not yet. I'm mulling how best people can contribute a bit if they get some value out of my videos, but I'm not a big fan of paywalls and "premium content" and all of that. For now I guess the best way to support is the standard: like, share, subscribe, click the bell, all of that. Which I also hate the idea of asking people to do, but I guess you have to. I guess what I would like the most is for you to share and talk about the ideas with people and get them out there. And thank you very much for asking.
Wow, no need to spend extra money on an APO now! Just buy a cheap Achromat! lol!
Not at all. The idea is not to replace expensive optics with cheap optics. More expensive optics will produce better images than cheap optics. For example, good luck finding a well matched reducer/flattener for a full frame sensor with your ST80. Instead, the goal is to improve the images that can be produced by less expensive optics, or even classic achromatic scopes, to increase the enjoyment of those with either modest or classic equipment, and lower the financial barriers to entry into the hobby.