Hi Jeff. I doubt you'll see this comment, but my wife and I are getting ready to renovate the interior of our house we bought last year. We're redoing all the floors, baseboards, paint, kitchen and bathroom cabinets and sinks, and building a custom shower. We've been watching all your videos for instruction. I personally love your method of talking to the viewer. Keep up the great work, it's money in the bank.
I just wanted to say that I’ve watched a coupld of your videos, and they are FANTASTIC!! I’m a homeowner, with no experience with HVAC’s, so I’m trying to learn about them in general to deal with a cold upstairs (in the midwest) and the only way to heat it is to crank the heat up really high. (The house is ~90yrs old!). So I’m planning on crawling around this weekend to look at how the ducts are run (and if they’re working!) so I can determine the problem(s). And in searching, I came across your videos, and they are fantastic! Very clear, easy to understand, and helpful tips/tricks and methods!! Thank you for making them!!
Perfect timing on the cold air return tip! Thanks!! - now to figure out how to get heat to the bedroom 2 stories up and in the furthest corner away from the furnace!!! 🤦♂️- it’s like some builders just don’t think things through...
I think I've commented this before but since I became a project manager overseeing numerous rehabs in the Cleveland Ohio area your videos have been so helpful I can't even thank you enough!
I agree with your sizing on the 6" return. Dryers and naturally aspirated hot water tanks will eat up the extra pressure in the basement. If that's not the case return air will find it's way to the furnace through internal leakage. That damn ice cream truck playing the same tune year after year. Background noise. Thxs for the vids!
A six inch return is not enough for a basement. That's only roughly 100cfm or so coming back to furnace. Each supply is good for 120cfm. So if you add a couple supply runs you are already undersized for return air. Hvac systems do not work like a pressurized balloon. They work at a low static pressure. Most houses don't have enough return air. Most houses have bad ductwork by design, building constraints or cheap/poor workmanship.
Ya. You are right. He gave terrible advise. 1500 sq. Ft. Should have equivalent to 14” round. The static pressure would be off the charts with a 6” round. Glad someone else saw this too. I am retired Sheetmetal worker. 32 years.
@@paulaguilar5041 Yeah, every time this guy does a video involving hvac, it's wrong. That scares me. Ive got 16yrs in. I'm a service tech. My company is known for our ductwork, alla fixing previous people's screw ups.
Completely again it’s no where near enough I’m an Hvac tech myself and personally have 3-8” runs in my own basement And it keeps identical temp to the main level
Great vid! From personal experience, I recommend getting an electronic radon meter (Airthings, etc) before you end up pushing bad basement air into your home.
The lung association and others actually don't recommend the electric ones. But I was just looking into this for my mom this weekend and you can get a kit for something like $65 CAD that includes two way shipping and the lab costs.
I've seen at least one house where there were louvered return grills at both floor & ceiling levels. Brilliant. Open the top in summer, bottom in winter. Unfortunately, this design didn't extend to the output ducts IIRC, but still...pretty nice.
This is amazing as always - Thank you 100!!! Please create a gutter video DIY.. I need 'em and want your take! You Rock bro!!! I watch all your stuff first - You and ProjectFarm
Regarding return vents from the basement back to the return ducts. Why not install a damper at the main return duct to only return the cold air from the basement to the rest of the house and reduce suction pressure from the returns from the rest of the house? Isn't this more ideal and efficient?
I really like the explanation that you give on how air circulates with a forced air system. The only thing I felt could be said differently is about the sizing of the duct used for an added return air. Though that rule of thumb, 6" for 1500sf of basement, isn't inaccurate there are free HVAC Manual J calculators online that even a diyer could use to determine the needs of their space more accuately. Just a thought. I enjoy your videos. Keep them coming!
Jeff, I'll admit I know nothing about hvac. Do you think you could explain ductwork planning for open concept - living room, dining room, kitchens? There are a number of things - one the size of the ductwork and how do you run it through the floor joist, carrying beam without using right turns which significantly reduce the efficiency of the flow.
Loved that quick tip at the end for straightening out your sticks. How do you feel about average diyer doing all their framing with construction screws ?
Great learning here, thanks. OK FOLKS - PLEASE HELP. 2 years ago had 100% new Furnace/HVAC installed. And, other than my leaky crappy windows - yeah, the house warms and cools. *But* all of a sudden - my basement is really really cold. As in, I need a winter hat and 2 sweaters to watch TV down there. Fully finished basement. I actually feel a cold breeze sometimes - but for the life of me can't see where it comes from. It happens when NO heat or A/C is operating- my suspicion is the breeze happens right before heat kicks on. I've literally slept next to vents in basement. At best a tiny trickle of air - sometimes but there's no way that freezes a 1000 square foot basement. Exhaust fan in bathroom I out my hand on all the time - no cold air there. I've hung toilet paper everywhere - once in awhile I see the paper wiggle. And I'm totally still and no heat/AC is kicked on. But again dont know where the heck the air comes from. Any ideas??? Could it be leaky ducts - shooting cold air thru the ceiling tiles into basement? Appreciate any thoughts, thanks.
Even though I own a trailer I have made a big deal about making sure my cold air returns are actually done properly. I got my trailer for free and it needed everything from the ground up due to years of water damage. Because of you I was able to tackle things I had never done before. I live in Iowa so we see the extremes of weather and the HVAC system has been a huge focus for efficiency. I am only about 2/3 done with my renovation I ensure my HVAC is running as efficient as possible. I think I am currently saving about $100 a month than the previous year and expect once done for that to be veen higher as the north side still needs finished. Switching to all LED lights as well was a massive change. Thank you so much for your videos that I poured over the last year. It even got me to build a shed!
Just had A/C added to my system (they restacked the furnace, cleaned the ducts, etc.) and discovered that while anything that might have asbestos or lead was removed years ago, the tape on the duct work is definitely asbestos based so they can't do the leak test without doing abatement.
@@dannyrondeau7873 If I was going to leave it alone that would be fine as it would essentially encapsulate the tape. The problem is that the leak test does add pressure to the system and that could cause the old tape to crumble placing asbestos fibers into the ducting (even if it is a smaller possibility). Because of that and the fine from the county if they are caught doing it, the heating and cooling company I used won't touch it. Not a killer. I will replace it down the line when I get a chance (we can do our own abatement in Washington State if we own the property) so just happy to have A/C for this coming summer!
Ok, so THIS has been my question!! What would you do in a home (meaning what form of heating), built on a pad, with no crawl space... currently electric baseboards (yikes!)
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY yes, if budget allowed that would be my top choice. However as ugly as they are, I've considered mini splits, for the A/C option. Any experience with them?
Mini splits are great....however once your down to -15 range there's not much efficiency. In floor heat or wall mount rads would be best for priority heating in that situation.
Ideally you should have return grill in every room. But don't put any returns in kitchen or bathroom. And if you want to make workshop area ,you should built separate ventilation system specifically for workshop. Having one big return in hallway is ok if you have open floor and individual returns in bedrooms.
You can't really just spit out a duct size per square feet. That is like me saying 1ton of cooling per 600 square ft. It is a rule of thumb or average. Use a ductulator and a manual J to size system and duct. Both of which can be found online. There are way to many factors in the hvac world to just spit out averages and rule of thumb and hope it will be correct.
There's a room in a small church that doesn't have an air duct running to it. If I wanted to add one from an existing duct line, would it affect the airflow rate on that line? And does it matter if I jump off from the end of a line or spliced in somewhere in the middle of one? And would running a duct size either higher or lower than the line I'm splicing from be ok to do, or should I run the same size? The room became the pastor's office, and I'd like to surprise him with it and know nothing about HVAC.
@@RM3MB3R It depends on the static pressure of the duct, but it will most likely effect the whole supply pressure. It would be a smaller line. It is usually safe to run the same size duct as other take offs. It really depends on length of the duct you are running on how big. Duct work is a science. I am a service guy not a duct guy. I would get someone trained to look at it. I have seen many times people add a supply line that doesn't make much difference because duct size it wrong and not enough return. Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Residential Buildings") that homes receive 0.35 air changes per hour but not less than 15 cubic feet of air per minute. Without proper return you wont get the air change.
@@briancole6289 I appreciate your feedback. The closest I can get to a duct to tie in to is 15 ft. I'll ask around and see who I can find who would know ducts. I've been wanting to learn HVAC. This may motivate me to go from "wanting to" to actually "doing". Thanks again, btother!
Is it fair to say that if you don't have a return in the basement, then you're not circulating any of the basement air through the HVAC system? What I'm looking for is a good way to balance the temperature throughout the entire house without having to invest in a zoning system.
As a question about the Stud fix: Aren't you introducing a bunch of tension into that wood? How it that affect expansion/contraction, in that, will this eventually become "unsprung" and normalize or could this eventually lead to cracking in the mud at the seam?
What would you recommend house on slab, heat duct in ceiling an furness in attic. Any way to do colds air returns near floor on inside uninsulated walls??
Hi Jeff, Can I put a cold air return on inside the exterior basement wall (ie. the outside concrete wall)? I don't have a lot of interior walls planned, 1700 sq ft basement.
In the previous video you recommended having the supply vent closer to the floor and having the cold air return closer to the ceiling. Is there a preference? Is one method better than the other? Great videos! I love your content and presentation. Keep it up!
The preference of whether the supply vent is in the floor (or near the floor as a sidewall vent) or in the ceiling is often dependant upon latitude & local/state code and the limitations presented by the structure itself. In more northern locations where basements are more common and where mechanicals tend to be located it is not uncommon for a home with a single level above grade to have floor vents. While in more southern locations where slab on grade construction or a small crawlspace does not allow for mechanicals to be run beneath the structure, having ductwork installed in the attic and this ceiling vents is common. Local/state codes determine how many cold air returns are required for that area. In some places every bedroom must have a supply vent and a cold air return vent. In other areas, many single family homes with one HVAC system, it is probable in that there is only one cold air return for the whole level. The placement of the system, whether above or below, may dictate where a cold air return is located. If the indoor unit is located in an attic, the return will likely be in the ceiling unless there is some chase that the builder selects to bring it lower. If there is no chase as an option in the design, many homeowners would rather it be in the ceiling so that they don't sacrifice any square footage or usually closet space. If the furnace/air handler/boiler/ducted mini split is beneath the house or in the basement, the return air may also be close to the floor to sacrifice minimal space. If a unit is located in a closet and configured in a down flow position, the supply vents would normally be in the floor and the return air would be high on the wall above the closet door or in the ceiling. As for if the relative location of the supply vents and cold air returns matters is often a matter of opinion. If in a location where the code requires a cold air return in every bedroom and open space, some could argue that the movement of air from low to high or high to low may be more effective in changing over the air in the room. If the code leaves it open to interpretation, others may not agree. In homes with a single system that has one cold air return, ultimately the air must travel through several rooms before it reaches this point. It would seem unlikely that the location of the cold air return, whether high or low respectively, would have a more than marginal impact on the overall performance of the system. The temperature difference from near the floor and the ceiling in homes with even higher than standard ceilings is within a few degrees. Also ceiling fans are popular in most regions of the United States and Canada. In creating air movement these mix the slightly warmer and cooler airs together. All of this to say that if the codes in your area do not make specifications on how many cold air returns are required and where they should be located, it will likely come down to the limitations of the structure (available space) and personal preference where a cold air return is located.
We are searching for a solution to our in slab duct repair issue. There appears to be areas which are deteriorating and the spray encapsulation, like Duct Armor, seems like a good solution. Anyone have experience or feedback on this method? Replacing what's in the slab does not appear to be an option, neither is installing split units or overhead duct work.
We just had our ducting redone in Alberta and they removed our floor cold air return in our basement and put it in the ceiling - claimed it was required by code. Now I am not so sure?
Huh....I don't even think my basement has a cold air return...I think I can add one though just off the wall that separates the utility room from the living room.
Hi Jeff @ HomerenovisionDIY, I just found a cold air return from my upper/main floor dining area isn't physically connected to the furnace. The air just runs through the ducts and then there is a huge hole in the top of the long Cold Air Return in the basement. Nothing is sealed. I only noticed because I was sound insulating. There is one other cold air vent on the upper main and it's sealed "fairly well". Am I introducing a problem with my air quality having this air from the one vent suck and blow quite freely? I am currently living in the basement with tenants above. Only about 1000 Sq ft per floor but it is a strong HE Natural gas furnace. When I got it installed the installer suggested that this was an overkill size furnace for the space.
You want to keep the cold air return for the furnace at least 10 feet from your furnace and gas waterheater to prevent backdrafting. You dont want to suck in any combustion gases.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY great video btw. Extra returns lower in the basement, and returns near the ceilings on the upper floors will naturally even out temperatures. Just running the fan in the summer will take cool air and circulate around the house, and pull the hottest air from the ceiling. Saves $$$
Hey Jeff, been watching many of your videos as I'm about to do some vinyl flooring in my home and I have wood sub flooring. My neighbor who does flooring says I don't need the padding underneath , the place I made my purchase for the flooring days I don't either. My question is do I need padding? The flooring i bought has it already. Any information would be greatly appreciated thanks.
I have a question unrelated to this specific video. I want to install safety grab bars in a walk in shower over tile with a schluter-kerdi waterproof system installed. How do I make sure the system stays waterproof?? I cant find an answer I trust anywhere. Also fyi, I haven't built the shower yet
I followed your advice from an older video and moved my basement heating ducts close to the floor. I've got a single 6" return for a large open space , also near the floor. Is it best left there or should the return now be near the ceiling?
@@bellsback I moved the 6" return to the ceiling since the ducts are on the floor. Building inspector's advice, and Jeff's. It's the size that was originally there. I just moved it.
I plan to build a soundproof room Does it need ventilation when i install AC? Or does it need a separate system. One of my fears is having no oxygen to breath
Get heat pumps, ditch your oil furnace. And all those 1970s air ducts and holes in your floors. Save money. Do what the Japanese have been doing for 20 years.
Jeff. Usually you are excellent but your way wrong on the return air which you called the cold air return. 6” is way way to small. The ductwork needs to be equivalent to around 14” round. Sorry but you are so very wrong. I’ve have installed Hvac for 32 years. You will be starving the air handler for make up air. This will cause major failure.
The information in this video is garbage and I would not follow this video or diagram. I own an HVAC basement and do Home performance. This is crap and not accurate. 6” return for 1500 sq ft is comical. Get a real HVAC installer to do this work correctly. This is nonsense.
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Hi Jeff. I doubt you'll see this comment, but my wife and I are getting ready to renovate the interior of our house we bought last year. We're redoing all the floors, baseboards, paint, kitchen and bathroom cabinets and sinks, and building a custom shower. We've been watching all your videos for instruction. I personally love your method of talking to the viewer. Keep up the great work, it's money in the bank.
I just wanted to say that I’ve watched a coupld of your videos, and they are FANTASTIC!! I’m a homeowner, with no experience with HVAC’s, so I’m trying to learn about them in general to deal with a cold upstairs (in the midwest) and the only way to heat it is to crank the heat up really high. (The house is ~90yrs old!). So I’m planning on crawling around this weekend to look at how the ducts are run (and if they’re working!) so I can determine the problem(s). And in searching, I came across your videos, and they are fantastic! Very clear, easy to understand, and helpful tips/tricks and methods!! Thank you for making them!!
did you figure it out?
Perfect timing on the cold air return tip! Thanks!! - now to figure out how to get heat to the bedroom 2 stories up and in the furthest corner away from the furnace!!! 🤦♂️- it’s like some builders just don’t think things through...
They don't give a 💩 neither do the uneducated contractors they hire.
I think I've commented this before but since I became a project manager overseeing numerous rehabs in the Cleveland Ohio area your videos have been so helpful I can't even thank you enough!
congrats on the position. that is one demanding job for sure. Cheers!
I'm in Parma, can you help me fix up house :)
I agree with your sizing on the 6" return. Dryers and naturally aspirated hot water tanks will eat up the extra pressure in the basement. If that's not the case return air will find it's way to the furnace through internal leakage. That damn ice cream truck playing the same tune year after year. Background noise. Thxs for the vids!
Thank you Jeff! I put in 2 registers for hot air in my basement here in Detroit and now I know why I need to add a return.
A six inch return is not enough for a basement. That's only roughly 100cfm or so coming back to furnace. Each supply is good for 120cfm. So if you add a couple supply runs you are already undersized for return air. Hvac systems do not work like a pressurized balloon. They work at a low static pressure. Most houses don't have enough return air. Most houses have bad ductwork by design, building constraints or cheap/poor workmanship.
Ya. You are right. He gave terrible advise. 1500 sq. Ft. Should have equivalent to 14” round. The static pressure would be off the charts with a 6” round. Glad someone else saw this too. I am retired Sheetmetal worker. 32 years.
@@paulaguilar5041 Yeah, every time this guy does a video involving hvac, it's wrong. That scares me. Ive got 16yrs in. I'm a service tech. My company is known for our ductwork, alla fixing previous people's screw ups.
Completely again it’s no where near enough
I’m an Hvac tech myself and personally have 3-8” runs in my own basement And it keeps identical temp to the main level
Thanks so much for this video! You released this at the perfect moment in my renovation!
Finishing a partial basement. Great advice explaining basement HVAC systems - thanks!
This is the best RUclips channel for DIY work at home.
Great vid! From personal experience, I recommend getting an electronic radon meter (Airthings, etc) before you end up pushing bad basement air into your home.
not a bad idea
The lung association and others actually don't recommend the electric ones. But I was just looking into this for my mom this weekend and you can get a kit for something like $65 CAD that includes two way shipping and the lab costs.
I've seen at least one house where there were louvered return grills at both floor & ceiling levels. Brilliant. Open the top in summer, bottom in winter. Unfortunately, this design didn't extend to the output ducts IIRC, but still...pretty nice.
This is amazing as always - Thank you 100!!! Please create a gutter video DIY.. I need 'em and want your take! You Rock bro!!! I watch all your stuff first - You and ProjectFarm
Where we live, cold air returns in the basement are not allowed. This is because of the Radon issues in the Midwest.
Great input thanks.
Isn't michigan a terrible place to live lol
Get a midigation system!
I’ve researched this video many times. Thank you
Good explanation about circulation of heat in that basement and how the air return works.
Regarding return vents from the basement back to the return ducts. Why not install a damper at the main return duct to only return the cold air from the basement to the rest of the house and reduce suction pressure from the returns from the rest of the house? Isn't this more ideal and efficient?
I really like the explanation that you give on how air circulates with a forced air system. The only thing I felt could be said differently is about the sizing of the duct used for an added return air. Though that rule of thumb, 6" for 1500sf of basement, isn't inaccurate there are free HVAC Manual J calculators online that even a diyer could use to determine the needs of their space more accuately. Just a thought.
I enjoy your videos. Keep them coming!
The words "the return is too big" have never been said by any HVAC Tech.
Jeff, I'll admit I know nothing about hvac. Do you think you could explain ductwork planning for open concept - living room, dining room, kitchens? There are a number of things - one the size of the ductwork and how do you run it through the floor joist, carrying beam without using right turns which significantly reduce the efficiency of the flow.
Loved that quick tip at the end for straightening out your sticks.
How do you feel about average diyer doing all their framing with construction screws ?
Great learning here, thanks. OK FOLKS - PLEASE HELP. 2 years ago had 100% new Furnace/HVAC installed. And, other than my leaky crappy windows - yeah, the house warms and cools. *But* all of a sudden - my basement is really really cold. As in, I need a winter hat and 2 sweaters to watch TV down there. Fully finished basement. I actually feel a cold breeze sometimes - but for the life of me can't see where it comes from. It happens when NO heat or A/C is operating- my suspicion is the breeze happens right before heat kicks on. I've literally slept next to vents in basement. At best a tiny trickle of air - sometimes but there's no way that freezes a 1000 square foot basement. Exhaust fan in bathroom I out my hand on all the time - no cold air there. I've hung toilet paper everywhere - once in awhile I see the paper wiggle. And I'm totally still and no heat/AC is kicked on. But again dont know where the heck the air comes from. Any ideas??? Could it be leaky ducts - shooting cold air thru the ceiling tiles into basement? Appreciate any thoughts, thanks.
Even though I own a trailer I have made a big deal about making sure my cold air returns are actually done properly. I got my trailer for free and it needed everything from the ground up due to years of water damage. Because of you I was able to tackle things I had never done before. I live in Iowa so we see the extremes of weather and the HVAC system has been a huge focus for efficiency. I am only about 2/3 done with my renovation I ensure my HVAC is running as efficient as possible. I think I am currently saving about $100 a month than the previous year and expect once done for that to be veen higher as the north side still needs finished. Switching to all LED lights as well was a massive change. Thank you so much for your videos that I poured over the last year. It even got me to build a shed!
Cheers Sophia. Well done!!!
Great job Jeff. Telling it simple as it is. Right on!
Should you check for radon in a basement before adding cold air returns?
Youre a smart man. Perfect career for you
Can you tie in a basement cold-air return to the existing return channels for the upstairs?
Just had A/C added to my system (they restacked the furnace, cleaned the ducts, etc.) and discovered that while anything that might have asbestos or lead was removed years ago, the tape on the duct work is definitely asbestos based so they can't do the leak test without doing abatement.
have them turn around as you remove the tape. Cheers!
What about carefully taping over it with generous layers of aluminum tape? Undisturbed, is it not harmless?
@@dannyrondeau7873 If I was going to leave it alone that would be fine as it would essentially encapsulate the tape. The problem is that the leak test does add pressure to the system and that could cause the old tape to crumble placing asbestos fibers into the ducting (even if it is a smaller possibility). Because of that and the fine from the county if they are caught doing it, the heating and cooling company I used won't touch it. Not a killer. I will replace it down the line when I get a chance (we can do our own abatement in Washington State if we own the property) so just happy to have A/C for this coming summer!
If you have a natural draft hot water heater, don't you have to worry more about backdrafting if you add a cold air return in the basement?
Hi, I would like to know how to temporarily remove a main duck in the basement in order to access the subfloor to repair a squeaky floor. Thanks
Ok, so THIS has been my question!!
What would you do in a home (meaning what form of heating), built on a pad, with no crawl space... currently electric baseboards (yikes!)
I love in floor heating.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY yes, if budget allowed that would be my top choice.
However as ugly as they are, I've considered mini splits, for the A/C option. Any experience with them?
Mini splits are great....however once your down to -15 range there's not much efficiency. In floor heat or wall mount rads would be best for priority heating in that situation.
Hi jeff, Im remodeling my basement, where do you recommend to install it, bedroom or kitchen area?
Cold air return should not be in kitchen or washroom.
Ideally you should have return grill in every room. But don't put any returns in kitchen or bathroom. And if you want to make workshop area ,you should built separate ventilation system specifically for workshop. Having one big return in hallway is ok if you have open floor and individual returns in bedrooms.
Nice trick
You can't really just spit out a duct size per square feet. That is like me saying 1ton of cooling per 600 square ft. It is a rule of thumb or average. Use a ductulator and a manual J to size system and duct. Both of which can be found online. There are way to many factors in the hvac world to just spit out averages and rule of thumb and hope it will be correct.
There's a room in a small church that doesn't have an air duct running to it. If I wanted to add one from an existing duct line, would it affect the airflow rate on that line? And does it matter if I jump off from the end of a line or spliced in somewhere in the middle of one? And would running a duct size either higher or lower than the line I'm splicing from be ok to do, or should I run the same size?
The room became the pastor's office, and I'd like to surprise him with it and know nothing about HVAC.
@@RM3MB3R It depends on the static pressure of the duct, but it will most likely effect the whole supply pressure. It would be a smaller line. It is usually safe to run the same size duct as other take offs. It really depends on length of the duct you are running on how big. Duct work is a science. I am a service guy not a duct guy. I would get someone trained to look at it. I have seen many times people add a supply line that doesn't make much difference because duct size it wrong and not enough return. Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Residential Buildings") that homes receive 0.35 air changes per hour but not less than 15 cubic feet of air per minute. Without proper return you wont get the air change.
@@briancole6289 I appreciate your feedback. The closest I can get to a duct to tie in to is 15 ft.
I'll ask around and see who I can find who would know ducts. I've been wanting to learn HVAC. This may motivate me to go from "wanting to" to actually "doing".
Thanks again, btother!
I love all the tips and tricks!! 👍
Please excuse my vulgar French… but I feel it’s absolutely necessary to use this choice word to emphasize my statement--
You are fucking brilliant !
Is it fair to say that if you don't have a return in the basement, then you're not circulating any of the basement air through the HVAC system? What I'm looking for is a good way to balance the temperature throughout the entire house without having to invest in a zoning system.
What about a cold air return in every room ?
On a separate topic, what do you think about tying in a vent near a skylight to your cold air return to avoid condensation (northern climate)?
Biggest change to overall house temp was adding a cold air return in our basement. Solved our banging duct work problem too
if your ducts bang it is back pressure from not enough cold air. Cheerd1
As a question about the Stud fix: Aren't you introducing a bunch of tension into that wood? How it that affect expansion/contraction, in that, will this eventually become "unsprung" and normalize or could this eventually lead to cracking in the mud at the seam?
the wood actually relaxes like a stiff muscle over time. Cheers!
What would you recommend house on slab, heat duct in ceiling an furness in attic. Any way to do colds air returns near floor on inside uninsulated walls??
Hi Jeff,
Can I put a cold air return on inside the exterior basement wall (ie. the outside concrete wall)? I don't have a lot of interior walls planned, 1700 sq ft basement.
thanks boss
In the previous video you recommended having the supply vent closer to the floor and having the cold air return closer to the ceiling.
Is there a preference? Is one method better than the other?
Great videos! I love your content and presentation. Keep it up!
Actually I suggested heat to the floor and C/A to the floor at the opposite end of the room. that is the best. Cheers!
The preference of whether the supply vent is in the floor (or near the floor as a sidewall vent) or in the ceiling is often dependant upon latitude & local/state code and the limitations presented by the structure itself. In more northern locations where basements are more common and where mechanicals tend to be located it is not uncommon for a home with a single level above grade to have floor vents. While in more southern locations where slab on grade construction or a small crawlspace does not allow for mechanicals to be run beneath the structure, having ductwork installed in the attic and this ceiling vents is common.
Local/state codes determine how many cold air returns are required for that area. In some places every bedroom must have a supply vent and a cold air return vent. In other areas, many single family homes with one HVAC system, it is probable in that there is only one cold air return for the whole level. The placement of the system, whether above or below, may dictate where a cold air return is located. If the indoor unit is located in an attic, the return will likely be in the ceiling unless there is some chase that the builder selects to bring it lower. If there is no chase as an option in the design, many homeowners would rather it be in the ceiling so that they don't sacrifice any square footage or usually closet space. If the furnace/air handler/boiler/ducted mini split is beneath the house or in the basement, the return air may also be close to the floor to sacrifice minimal space. If a unit is located in a closet and configured in a down flow position, the supply vents would normally be in the floor and the return air would be high on the wall above the closet door or in the ceiling.
As for if the relative location of the supply vents and cold air returns matters is often a matter of opinion. If in a location where the code requires a cold air return in every bedroom and open space, some could argue that the movement of air from low to high or high to low may be more effective in changing over the air in the room. If the code leaves it open to interpretation, others may not agree. In homes with a single system that has one cold air return, ultimately the air must travel through several rooms before it reaches this point. It would seem unlikely that the location of the cold air return, whether high or low respectively, would have a more than marginal impact on the overall performance of the system.
The temperature difference from near the floor and the ceiling in homes with even higher than standard ceilings is within a few degrees. Also ceiling fans are popular in most regions of the United States and Canada. In creating air movement these mix the slightly warmer and cooler airs together. All of this to say that if the codes in your area do not make specifications on how many cold air returns are required and where they should be located, it will likely come down to the limitations of the structure (available space) and personal preference where a cold air return is located.
Isn’t there a code where you can’t have a cold air return to the floor in the basement? Feel like I’ve heard that before. Maybe it’s CO related?
We are searching for a solution to our in slab duct repair issue. There appears to be areas which are deteriorating and the spray encapsulation, like Duct Armor, seems like a good solution. Anyone have experience or feedback on this method? Replacing what's in the slab does not appear to be an option, neither is installing split units or overhead duct work.
We’re looking at electric radiant floor heat fir the basement. Is a cold air return still needed? Thanks!
We just had our ducting redone in Alberta and they removed our floor cold air return in our basement and put it in the ceiling - claimed it was required by code. Now I am not so sure?
Huh....I don't even think my basement has a cold air return...I think I can add one though just off the wall that separates the utility room from the living room.
Hi Jeff @ HomerenovisionDIY, I just found a cold air return from my upper/main floor dining area isn't physically connected to the furnace. The air just runs through the ducts and then there is a huge hole in the top of the long Cold Air Return in the basement. Nothing is sealed. I only noticed because I was sound insulating. There is one other cold air vent on the upper main and it's sealed "fairly well". Am I introducing a problem with my air quality having this air from the one vent suck and blow quite freely? I am currently living in the basement with tenants above. Only about 1000 Sq ft per floor but it is a strong HE Natural gas furnace. When I got it installed the installer suggested that this was an overkill size furnace for the space.
You want to keep the cold air return for the furnace at least 10 feet from your furnace and gas waterheater to prevent backdrafting. You dont want to suck in any combustion gases.
Ottawa is south of the 49th parallel 🤓
LOL, does not include the great lakes area. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY great video btw. Extra returns lower in the basement, and returns near the ceilings on the upper floors will naturally even out temperatures. Just running the fan in the summer will take cool air and circulate around the house, and pull the hottest air from the ceiling. Saves $$$
Hey Jeff, been watching many of your videos as I'm about to do some vinyl flooring in my home and I have wood sub flooring. My neighbor who does flooring says I don't need the padding underneath , the place I made my purchase for the flooring days I don't either. My question is do I need padding? The flooring i bought has it already. Any information would be greatly appreciated thanks.
I have a question unrelated to this specific video. I want to install safety grab bars in a walk in shower over tile with a schluter-kerdi waterproof system installed. How do I make sure the system stays waterproof?? I cant find an answer I trust anywhere. Also fyi, I haven't built the shower yet
install blocking where you want to screw and fill your hole with silicone when installing. cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you!!
I followed your advice from an older video and moved my basement heating ducts close to the floor. I've got a single 6" return for a large open space , also near the floor. Is it best left there or should the return now be near the ceiling?
@@bellsback I moved the 6" return to the ceiling since the ducts are on the floor. Building inspector's advice, and Jeff's. It's the size that was originally there. I just moved it.
I plan to build a soundproof room
Does it need ventilation when i install AC? Or does it need a separate system.
One of my fears is having no oxygen to breath
6inch is to small for any return if you are going to hard pipe it
Another case of a painter acting as a master tinsmith.
Where do I give my resume?
Get heat pumps, ditch your oil furnace. And all those 1970s air ducts and holes in your floors. Save money. Do what the Japanese have been doing for 20 years.
👍👍
Jeff. Usually you are excellent but your way wrong on the return air which you called the cold air return. 6” is way way to small. The ductwork needs to be equivalent to around 14” round. Sorry but you are so very wrong. I’ve have installed Hvac for 32 years. You will be starving the air handler for make up air. This will cause major failure.
The information in this video is garbage and I would not follow this video or diagram. I own an HVAC basement and do Home performance. This is crap and not accurate. 6” return for 1500 sq ft is comical. Get a real HVAC installer to do this work correctly. This is nonsense.
Over engineering