I can understand staying with the 8.8” rear. With my stick Fox I kept breaking 8.8” gears even with an adjustable clutch. After selling the whole 8.8” rear to a Buddy still running it in an Automatic car. I bought a custom narrowed by 1” each side 9” housing/Moser axle package from Quick Performance with all the extra bracing/upgrades boxes checked for $1,550 shipped. Bought everything needed from QP to put a nice 3rd member together for $1,200 and a bolt-on rear disc brake kit from AreoSpace for like $699. No rear issues after a couple years. This addiction/hobby really adds up but trying to not having problems in the future frees up $ for other stuff. 😉😎
@2jz_No_Shit same buddy. This is our first home. I had no clue we were suppose to drain it each year. Mine went like 5 years. A lot of sand like stuff came out of mine that was white.
If I was u before i welded the brackets on i would find me two thick pieces of pipe that would slip over the axle tubes and cut the ends off slid the over it weld on both ends then slide them brackets on well them on and then weld the ends back on it’s just a thought that may help that is what we use to do to mud bogging rears
Saw that turbo John is coming to Ennis, Tx. Was wondering if you would want to sell your stock coyote valve covers? I’m a teacher for machining and would love to scan and try to make a billet set. Lmk
Just curious Courtney and sorry if this has been addressed and I realize the extra cost but whats your opinion on a 9 inch, so far i see everything you bought and have is the exact same for 8.8 and 9, the only advantage i know for the 8.8 is it has less resistance or maybe better said is it uses less HP,,,and for the 9 sure you would have to buy an entire 3rd member but then you will always have that convenience
So if I went 9” I’d also need a center section and a new driveshaft due to length differences. So easily another $1000-$3000 unless you maybe use a stock center section
9" is an overweight archaic piece of over rated crap with all sorts of other issues. Tailshaft and pinion angle the first dramas. In the US [not here in Oz] you can probably build 3 8'8s with gears for the price of one 9"
@@ThePaintPaperHustlesame. I literally bought all 4 at the local junkyard for 425 out the door for the set so I have a back up, one for both my trucks, and my buddy needed one for his truck as well. He has to redrill the axles to a chevy pattern and do something about the rear u joint on the driveshaft but the explorer rear is miles better than the 7.625 10 bolt in his S10.
Once again here we go the End Caps that you weld On Are the C Clip Eliminator's Because the Axle is Held in By them and No Longer the C Clips. as in a 9in Never ever had C Clips or let me say this No Pumpkin type Diff Ever had C Clips Because there is No way to even Access them
I can understand staying with the 8.8” rear. With my stick Fox I kept breaking 8.8” gears even with an adjustable clutch. After selling the whole 8.8” rear to a Buddy still running it in an Automatic car. I bought a custom narrowed by 1” each side 9” housing/Moser axle package from Quick Performance with all the extra bracing/upgrades boxes checked for $1,550 shipped. Bought everything needed from QP to put a nice 3rd member together for $1,200 and a bolt-on rear disc brake kit from AreoSpace for like $699. No rear issues after a couple years. This addiction/hobby really adds up but trying to not having problems in the future frees up $ for other stuff. 😉😎
Sounds like an awesome unit. That’s what I was trying to avoid is spending 3k when I don’t feel like this car needs that currently
🎉🎉 GREAT INFORMATION THUMBS UP AND GOD BLESS ALL 🎉🎉
Thanks
Gonna be awesome Courtney. Keep on rockin brother
Thanks buddy
Solid info and walkthru on prepping an 8.8, great video keep it up!
Thanks buddy
Just drained my hot water heater for the first time lol I’m learning about race cars and life sh!t man you can’t beat this channel.
Lol did you hear me say it and then you went and googled why?
@@ThePaintPaperHustle yep lol I’m a first time home owner so I’m learning quickly there’s always something that needs to be done.
@2jz_No_Shit same buddy. This is our first home. I had no clue we were suppose to drain it each year. Mine went like 5 years. A lot of sand like stuff came out of mine that was white.
@@ThePaintPaperHustle no telling what’s going to come outta mine lol
Looking forward to seeing the progress
Thanks
Go time!!! 💪
💪🏻
Awesome thanks
You’re welcome
Cool 😎 !
🫡
Great info
Thanks
Still cleaning up the dark car keeps it good plus the Benz
🧼
Me too trying to make it TJ tuner and Courtney bullet proof
💪🏻
If I was u before i welded the brackets on i would find me two thick pieces of pipe that would slip over the axle tubes and cut the ends off slid the over it weld on both ends then slide them brackets on well them on and then weld the ends back on it’s just a thought that may help that is what we use to do to mud bogging rears
I won’t be doing any fab work on it. Same guy that just did Randys back half now has the axle
I know I watch your video but figured I would run it by you to help make it stronger
I would mention it to him and see what he says or take out the axle tubs and get thicker ones
Yea I understand. When you see the outcome I think you’ll be super happy
Cool man
Saw that turbo John is coming to Ennis, Tx. Was wondering if you would want to sell your stock coyote valve covers? I’m a teacher for machining and would love to scan and try to make a billet set. Lmk
I put the stock ones back on actually
@@ThePaintPaperHustleawesome! Thank you anyway
@lyleguinn6947 you’re welcome man
Just curious Courtney and sorry if this has been addressed and I realize the extra cost but whats your opinion on a 9 inch, so far i see everything you bought and have is the exact same for 8.8 and 9, the only advantage i know for the 8.8 is it has less resistance or maybe better said is it uses less HP,,,and for the 9 sure you would have to buy an entire 3rd member but then you will always have that convenience
So if I went 9” I’d also need a center section and a new driveshaft due to length differences. So easily another $1000-$3000 unless you maybe use a stock center section
9" is an overweight archaic piece of over rated crap with all sorts of other issues. Tailshaft and pinion angle the first dramas. In the US [not here in Oz] you can probably build 3 8'8s with gears for the price of one 9"
@ldnwholesale8552 they definitely do cost more that’s why I stayed 8.8
You drained your hotwater heater onto the lawn? I once did that and killed about 6 feet of grass!!
Drained it onto the driveway which runs off to a drain that drains slow lol. I didn’t know it could kill the grass. Why does it do that?
It's crazy where the old axle broke. Any ideas what caused the failure ?
Not sure buddy
HAZ
Thin stock tubes and no back brace. Shouldn't weld heavy on thin stock axle tubes.
8.8's are expensive, AAM axles cost less... but if you have one, it stays on the truck.
Seems like everything is expensive lol
For the price ppl want for 8.8s where I live, it was better to have an housing made by Speedway. Count yourself fortunate for the hook up.
Wow that’s crazy we can buy them out the pick and pull all day for like $100
@@ThePaintPaperHustlesame. I literally bought all 4 at the local junkyard for 425 out the door for the set so I have a back up, one for both my trucks, and my buddy needed one for his truck as well. He has to redrill the axles to a chevy pattern and do something about the rear u joint on the driveshaft but the explorer rear is miles better than the 7.625 10 bolt in his S10.
@damianlindsey6177 that’s awesome
Once again here we go the End Caps that you weld On Are the C Clip Eliminator's Because the Axle is Held in By them and No Longer the C Clips. as in a 9in Never ever had C Clips or let me say this No Pumpkin type Diff Ever had C Clips Because there is No way to even Access them
Exactly! …By welding on 9in axle ends you are eliminating the c clip 😂…therefore that is your c clip eliminator on an 8.8
👍🏻