Thank You for what you do! I also was not expecting a 5th video from you. It is so wonderful to watch you do your stuff and come up with new techniques to extract that beautiful precious metal. I think many of us live vicariously through you as we didn't do to well in Science Class when we went to school or university. Keep up the great vids for us. Best regards from the West Coast of Canada.
The snotty material from bobbing compound is a beeswax or other paraffin. Generally this stuff is very acid resistant with a hodgepodge of alkanes, fatty acids, esters - some of the least reactive organics. Try washing the wax out with acetone, ether or alcohol first maybe? With an aqueous solvent you are just going to push a lump of hydrophobic goo around your beaker, and it will likely buffer the reaction or trap colloids preventing them from going into solution.
when rendering beeswax they put it all in boiling water....the crud sinks and the wax floats then they allow it to solidify and remove a solid chunk of clean wax off the top
Sunday episodes are overwhelming my RUclips account. By the time I clear five or six long episodes there's already a dozen more. Think Greenwich mean time - everybody.
Your HCI is yellow from contamination during the manufacturing process. The process of burning chlorine gas with hydrogen gas takes steel combustion tubes, and the yellow is from the iron in the combustion tube oxidizing from the chlorine gas during this process. Which forms ferric chloride and turns the solution yellow when diluted with water.
What a great series, and this was a cool wrap up video that answered a lot of questions I had about the process, like what you do with this fabled "stock pot" =D. My fav part is always the SMB reaction and the smelting. The gold never loses its luster for me.
Funny u said it was a yellow tint in the hydrochloric acid I noticed that in the last video thought it was odd as well but I wouldn't have ever noticed it if it wasn't for your knowledge that u have shared over the years sir... thank u for my chemistry lessons one thing I miss from younger high school days school only had the first 2 chemistrys classes not more so nice to have learned so much over the years with u buddy
Sreetips, modern day Mr. Wizard! Here in South Eastern, Ohio, we have 100s of chemical plants up and down the Ohio River. There is like 20 chemical plants within 15 miles from here going up river... Around here in school we had all sorts of science days. They, the science days, pale in comparison to Sreetips!
I said it the first time i watched your show that if my chemistry teacher was half as interesting i would have been a chemist. Well im still interested after at least 25 videos. Not to many can capture my attention like you do. Didnt expect this last video glad i watched it. Thanks i cant wait to see whats next🙂✌️and stay safe.
I absolutely love to watch your videos and have learned so much from all that I have viewed! Thank you very much for doing all that you do Mr. Sreetips. You do this all with such patience and make it fun and interesting! Can't wait for more of your content!
Often, technical grade HCl will have minor iron contamination. Given what you have taught us about the metal reactivity series, it indeed should not interfere with your work :)
Most bobbing compounds and polishes contain stearic acid which is not always burned away in furnaces especially when it is tightly bound to silica. As a fatty acid, if forms chains and becomes a gelatinous mess. To separate the stearic acid from the mess you need to dissolve it in ethenol as it is insoluble in water. Then the remaining mess can be treated and hopefully not a solid lump at this time to extract the precious metals. In the future, it would be wise to ask for the brand of compound anyone uses so you can isolate any compounds that would cause problems.
Pyrometallurgically, it wouldn't matter. Ignite it to reduce the volume then oxidize it at high temperature with a reductant/collector to retrieve it as a metal button.
@@williamfoote2888 if you had been paying attention to the videos when he would stir the beakers there was fatty acid scum on the surfy, which means that the stearic acid was not completely burned in the furnace he used. Besides, he didn't melt the material down into a button because at that point he would need to inquart the gold to refine it... If there was no fatty acids present than the material wouldn't have been so thick and gel like. The compound contains silica sand which acts as a protective thermal barrier for the stearic acid... Especially from heat in say an electric furnace, however chemically it offers no 'protection' hence the need to clean the mixture with ethanol or even acetone. Since the solubility of silver and gold are low in ethanol and ethanol is a cheap solution to find, it can offer an effective means to cleaning up the stearic acid with little effort. Gold is soluble in ethanol when iodine is present, but it needs to be present in substantial quantities (excess) of any reaction to occur. I would like to see/know if piranha solution could be effective because of the presence of carbon in the stearic acid. Be interesting to know if it is strong enough to break the fatty acid chains. If Sreetips still has the residual cake left over, I wonder if there is more gold trapped in the fatty acid chains and if treating it releases more?
@@athenarocar LOL! If I had been paying attention? I’ll pit my Chem degree against your you tube observations any day. Trying to work up a waxy starting material by simply by burning it meant that much of the waxes and fats were going to survive. In a full on pyrometallurgical approach, the waxes and fats would simply be part of the necessary carbon reductant. Anything like a wet approach to this material was going to be a problem. Rinsing with solvents just makes a rough work up rougher. He’d need something very much like a Soxhlet extraction to extract all the waxes and greases from the material and he’d still have to ignite the remaining cotton and plastic wheel material. He doesn’t want to do a Soxhlet extraction. It’d be a huge effort. He doesn’t deal in I2. He doesn’t want to deal in I2 either. Pyrometallurgically processing the material gets rid of ALL the carbon and the abrasives, and leaves him with the clean metal ready to work up.
That Buffing/Polishing Compound is something. We had to chisel it off the wall in the shop behind the wheel but there was no precious metals there as we mostly work with steel and aluminum. Looks like he might use Red Rouge
@sreetips I'd like to see a video on refining and pouring some copper. Would be a good video I think. Plus you can use that copper for cementing out the precious metals again.
@20:01 i thought someone had drawn a cute little smiley face on the rinse bottle, alas, it's a hazard placard looking sign that's faded 😢 c'est la vie 🤣 This was a great series, thank you Mr. Tips.
Nice, an unexpected fith part! The yellowish color of the muriatric acid comes from heme (Fe2+). In other words: There is iron in your acid, which is usually normal for technical grade acids.
the buffer solids, i wonder if a ton of heat might carbonise some more of it now its a bit more refined.. if that fails maybe treat it with a cyanide leeching, its not something iv ever see you try, could be interesting to do on a small scale what they would do in massive batches with all kinds of natural contaminants
Just sounds like some uv got to your acid? Or are the bottles uv proof? Great to see your outstanding work as always. Also. Slow motion beaker pouring is the strangest fettish I've ever heard of 😜
7:22 Yellow tint of hydrochloric acid is allowable for technical grade acid (up to 0,02% traces of iron, up to 0,008% of free chlorine. Both gives yellow tint). Perhaps earlier you got top grade muriatic acid (0.001% to 0.002% - iron, 0.002% - free chlorine, clear or slightly yellowish liquid), and now it closer to 1-st grade (0.015% - iron, 0.008% - free clorine, yellowish liquid).
Two of my favorite college classes were quantitative and qualitative analysis. I don't remember much of either any more, but the procedures and techniques learned there have been quite helpful.
A few words on the Acids you use. The muriatic acid I buy is identical to yours, except I buy mine from Home Depot. They keep the acid outside in the cold and hot climate. Every time I go back to buy more, I see the same 2-pack boxes all weathered and dirty. I've also noticed recently the color of the acid has a slight yellow tint to it, I assume it's from being stored outdoors in the weather. I've never had any problems with it though. I usually just pick out the box that's the least fallen apart and buy it. I have also purchased a 4-pack of 2.5L bottles of Nitric acid from Duda diesel. They came in a heavy duty styrofoam crate. I didn't like pouring the acid from those heavy glass bottles, so I transferred the acid to my old empty nitric acid bottles that I am used to handling. The acid was crystal clear in 3 of the 4 bottles, but the 4th bottle had a slight yellow tint to it. I've read that if you leave it exposed to UV light for too long, it will change color. I therefore keep the bottles stored in the original shipping container in complete darkness.
I get the same acid from Ace Hardware for the pool and every once is a while it isn’t quite clear. I almost wonder if it got tipped and reacted with the glue on the seal under the cap.
Just wanted to say thank you for all the great knowledge and time you share with the community . I've watched you since you started and Still learn new things every week from you. I would like to know how to buy Nitric acid with out having to pay crazy Hazzard wast fees? I'm in Central NC and been ordering it from Lab alley in TX. Maybe you can talk about how you get your chemicals. Thanks again for all that you do!
I think you should have given the piranha solution solids more than the one aqua regia treatment. There may well be a significant amount of gold remaining there. I think there may have been some nitric acid left in the consolidation beaker - which would explain why the SMB seemed to act strangely.
Hey Sreetips, you should show how much gold you can possibly lose in your solutions. Take your watch glass/dish and allow a drop to run off on your gold testing paper and test it with your tin solution for gold. It would be an eye-opener to many. That's why the big refineries always have a scrubber on their hoods.
How Long do you think until the silver cement out I'm just wondering so I can have an idea I intend to start processing when I get my fume hood done thank you for sharing this with us six stars brother
Something I've always wondered about your operation - What happens with all the waste fluids, waste materials, melt dishes, etc that are a byproduct of your refining? I assume the melt dishes you save up for a big "melt dish refining" video. The various fluids and buckets of stuff - Do you save everything forever? Do you just keep refining and refining and refining them until there's 0 of anything left, and THEN it's given to the waste treatment facility? Do you know what all is contained within the buckets and are disposing of them in a certain way, or is it all just "bulk waste chemical" that's treated and disposed of. Cheers.
I look forward to watching streetips videos. I want to see a video where he doesn't use silver and removes base metals. And only pulls gold out. He will have suspended gold. Let it settle, melt it, then put it into solution again. At that point it should act like regular gold?
I guess my comment on the previous video was premature!! This is just what I was hoping for! Have seen but the first couple of minutes of this video so I'm curious to know what remaining gold might be in there!!
I think the reason you needed to add so much smb was because when you added nitric to the sludgy solution you added 3 or 4 droppers full which is about 9 to 12 ml & it caused the gold to go back into solution. My thoughts, I could be wrong.
I'm gonna preface this by saying I just enjoy watching videos about refining and have never actually done this. But my thought is would there be a down side to using an excess of nitric in the recovery phase so you could ensure that all the gold is in solution and then boil it down after filtering to drive it off? Just because it seems near impossible it this state to know when you're done extracting gold using the incremental nitric method.
Thank you for the content, I have a question when you siphon the liquid it looks like you are not sucking to start the process. How are you starting the siphoning process?
Fill the tube with water. Close one end with thumb. Stick other, open end, into the fluid being siphoned, point thumbed end into receiver bucket, let thumb off.
I was watching a guy on YT recovering some metals from catalytic converters using HCl, Ca(OCl)2, and Bleech to put the PGMs into solution and then used aluminum foil instead of zinc to cement the PGMs. If you intended to recover and refine the PGMs, are you going to try something different from last time? I guess what I am really asking, is it impossible to separate all the PGMs?
@@sreetips sounds like all you need is the equipment. Could you start a 501c3? Include in your videos the equipment you would need and like to get and start a GoFundMe.
@@sreetips Oh stop. You sell yourself short! You do very well with Pd, because you work up the Ag and collect the slimes. The only problem is that you need to process massive amounts of Ag to get a decent amount of Pd to collect. If you had a known Pd stream, you might be able to do better, quantity wise. Pt and Rh ride with your Au work up and they also don't see big volumes to see a decent button. It's nothing that you're doing wrong. It's the materials you have to work with.
YELLOW tint maybe some new regulations.... government has to have something to do.....like online application software engineers with their constant updates.
great video sreetips , it's hard to believe that at today's price ( 2/26/23 ) $58.59 per gram ) that small amount of gold ( both pieces ) is worth $1,072.19
I just suggested he contact Robinson Foundry or ArtByAdrock to do somewhat of a crossover by sending it to them & having them cast it into something (BigStackD would be awesome, but it would probably cost a fortune to send some to W. Australia)
That reply is so You. Normal people would say “No” or “I can’t “ but not you. You say “I haven’t done that yet.” I learned how to think like that when I was in the Navy. The real answer to “Can you do something?” is “I really don’t know what all I can do, but I bet I’ll be good at it.” I love your videos. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge.
Part 5!!!! What a great video as always sir. One question though where do you get the squeeze bottles you keep your distilled water and Hydrochloric acid in?
It was a lot of compound for the fair amount recovered. Dealing with it all looked like a nightmare assuming because of the wax. The Piranha solution seems like the best way to deal with it but that would be a large refining process, might be worth in the end. Don't know how much the Piranha solution and all that would end up costing for the gold recovered but gold can be upsold when done into rings. I kinda wonder if a simple soap solution to break down the wax would be easier or if it won't be able to break it down enough to release the gold.
What a spectacular video series. A lot of work for the jeweler! Hopefully he watches the series and sees how hard you worked to get him the metal. And it's probably more data for accurate estimation of this type of dust scrap too. Just a fabulous series.
I'm super curious to find out what the undissolved solids were.. all I can think of is plastic.. would an acetone wash first would help since it disolves plastic and not metals?? IDK just trying to think of a solution hah pun-y =)
Ever think to do the extraction of messy stuff backwards.. like put all precious metals into solution and then cementing out the different metals as u would ur waste solutions??
You might try melting all the solids down in a flux mix and crucible with some lead or bismuth collector metal see if you can get more out might help get rid of the polishing compound
For someone with the experience that would be a way to do it. For me, with absolutely no experience, I’m not going to experiment and risk losing some of his metal. I’ll stick to what I know how to do. Wet chemical process.
I think you posted a video in the past where the solution would go back into solution right after you applied the SMB. I think you said it was due to still having an excess nitric acid still in the beaker. Anyway, I could be mistaken. Keep the videos coming!
Noting the cost of chemicals and the cost of propane/acetylene is there a point when fire assay recovery is cheaper/easier/better than wet chemical recovery of precious metals? What process did the jewelery trade use before you came to their aid?
One time, the jeweler send in bobbing compound, they tried to recover it by furnace and botched it. They tried to pay him 1/3 of the expected yield. Regular guy at the refinery was off that week. Jeweler called and questioned it. The regular guy came back off vacation. They payed out the expected yield and apologized. End result: don’t experiment with unfamiliar processes with other peoples material. I use wet chemical because I’m familiar with it. It’s what I know and I’m confident in getting a proper result.
Thank You for what you do! I also was not expecting a 5th video from you. It is so wonderful to watch you do your stuff and come up with new techniques to extract that beautiful precious metal. I think many of us live vicariously through you as we didn't do to well in Science Class when we went to school or university. Keep up the great vids for us. Best regards from the West Coast of Canada.
Holy crap! I’m so excited. I didn’t expect a part five. Excellent!
I was just saying the same thing! Completely unexpected!
The snotty material from bobbing compound is a beeswax or other paraffin. Generally this stuff is very acid resistant with a hodgepodge of alkanes, fatty acids, esters - some of the least reactive organics. Try washing the wax out with acetone, ether or alcohol first maybe? With an aqueous solvent you are just going to push a lump of hydrophobic goo around your beaker, and it will likely buffer the reaction or trap colloids preventing them from going into solution.
Good. I wasn't the only one thinking this.
i was wondering if hot water would melt the wax and allow it to float and then be chilled with ice cubes and skimmed off....like fat from a soup....
I was also wondering if acetone or some other solvent would break up the nasty stuff. Didn't realize it was likely beeswax/parafin.
when rendering beeswax they put it all in boiling water....the crud sinks and the wax floats then they allow it to solidify and remove a solid chunk of clean wax off the top
I thought it was super fine silica or aluminum oxide from the polishing compound.
Sundays are the worst days to find anything new on YT, not only did Sreetips bless us with a video, but a 48 min video! THANK YOU!
Sunday episodes are overwhelming my RUclips account. By the time I clear five or six long episodes there's already a dozen more. Think Greenwich mean time - everybody.
FACTS
Agreed!
Another 3g recycled from waste. As a chemist, I'm absolutely thrilled. It definitely motivates me into my old age. A very clear case of thumbs up.
I'm a chemist too. I can't help but watch his videos and live vicariously through his work!
Your HCI is yellow from contamination during the manufacturing process. The process of burning chlorine gas with hydrogen gas takes steel combustion tubes, and the yellow is from the iron in the combustion tube oxidizing from the chlorine gas during this process. Which forms ferric chloride and turns the solution yellow when diluted with water.
What a great series, and this was a cool wrap up video that answered a lot of questions I had about the process, like what you do with this fabled "stock pot" =D. My fav part is always the SMB reaction and the smelting. The gold never loses its luster for me.
Member when you could buy premium grade Corning ware as baking dishes.
Almost cried when my X-large Blue Flower broke, the best brownies.
I tend to accumulate your series and then binge watch them for hours. Very addictive. Thanks!
You kept this close to your chest Sreetips. What a treat.
I was not expecting a part 5… can’t tell you how pleased I was to see that thumbnail pop up! Thank you for what you do for our entertainment Sreetips!
Funny u said it was a yellow tint in the hydrochloric acid I noticed that in the last video thought it was odd as well but I wouldn't have ever noticed it if it wasn't for your knowledge that u have shared over the years sir... thank u for my chemistry lessons one thing I miss from younger high school days school only had the first 2 chemistrys classes not more so nice to have learned so much over the years with u buddy
Sreetips, modern day Mr. Wizard!
Here in South Eastern, Ohio, we have 100s of chemical plants up and down the Ohio River. There is like 20 chemical plants within 15 miles from here going up river...
Around here in school we had all sorts of science days. They, the science days, pale in comparison to Sreetips!
A lot of hcl has iron contamination
I said it the first time i watched your show that if my chemistry teacher was half as interesting i would have been a chemist. Well im still interested after at least 25 videos. Not to many can capture my attention like you do. Didnt expect this last video glad i watched it. Thanks i cant wait to see whats next🙂✌️and stay safe.
Thanks for the great series Streetips.Well done.
There is something oddly satisfying about the slow mo beaker rinse…lol… 🧐🤷♂️👍
I absolutely love to watch your videos and have learned so much from all that I have viewed! Thank you very much for doing all that you do Mr. Sreetips. You do this all with such patience and make it fun and interesting! Can't wait for more of your content!
Gooood evening from central Florida! Hope everyone has a great night!
Goooood evening!
You are lucky there in Florida my friend😂. Realy cold here in Norway. Have a nice day. Arne
Often, technical grade HCl will have minor iron contamination. Given what you have taught us about the metal reactivity series, it indeed should not interfere with your work :)
This was an exciting weekend of refining gold from jewelers bobbin. So much precious metals an jewelers use metal.... It's amazing
Awesome recovery. I enjoyed the whole series.
Most bobbing compounds and polishes contain stearic acid which is not always burned away in furnaces especially when it is tightly bound to silica. As a fatty acid, if forms chains and becomes a gelatinous mess. To separate the stearic acid from the mess you need to dissolve it in ethenol as it is insoluble in water. Then the remaining mess can be treated and hopefully not a solid lump at this time to extract the precious metals.
In the future, it would be wise to ask for the brand of compound anyone uses so you can isolate any compounds that would cause problems.
Pyrometallurgically, it wouldn't matter. Ignite it to reduce the volume then oxidize it at high temperature with a reductant/collector to retrieve it as a metal button.
@@williamfoote2888 if you had been paying attention to the videos when he would stir the beakers there was fatty acid scum on the surfy, which means that the stearic acid was not completely burned in the furnace he used. Besides, he didn't melt the material down into a button because at that point he would need to inquart the gold to refine it...
If there was no fatty acids present than the material wouldn't have been so thick and gel like. The compound contains silica sand which acts as a protective thermal barrier for the stearic acid... Especially from heat in say an electric furnace, however chemically it offers no 'protection' hence the need to clean the mixture with ethanol or even acetone. Since the solubility of silver and gold are low in ethanol and ethanol is a cheap solution to find, it can offer an effective means to cleaning up the stearic acid with little effort.
Gold is soluble in ethanol when iodine is present, but it needs to be present in substantial quantities (excess) of any reaction to occur.
I would like to see/know if piranha solution could be effective because of the presence of carbon in the stearic acid. Be interesting to know if it is strong enough to break the fatty acid chains. If Sreetips still has the residual cake left over, I wonder if there is more gold trapped in the fatty acid chains and if treating it releases more?
@@athenarocar LOL! If I had been paying attention? I’ll pit my Chem degree against your you tube observations any day.
Trying to work up a waxy starting material by simply by burning it meant that much of the waxes and fats were going to survive.
In a full on pyrometallurgical approach, the waxes and fats would simply be part of the necessary carbon reductant.
Anything like a wet approach to this material was going to be a problem. Rinsing with solvents just makes a rough work up rougher.
He’d need something very much like a Soxhlet extraction to extract all the waxes and greases from the material and he’d still have to ignite the remaining cotton and plastic wheel material. He doesn’t want to do a Soxhlet extraction. It’d be a huge effort.
He doesn’t deal in I2. He doesn’t want to deal in I2 either.
Pyrometallurgically processing the material gets rid of ALL the carbon and the abrasives, and leaves him with the clean metal ready to work up.
Such a nice little bead of gold. That sludge sure was a test and vastly more gold than what you thought from that sludge was a nice bonus. 👍
Hello sir, "uncooperative" is new chemical term, I learned today...
Kevin, you've got a dizzying number of beakers and flasks you're orchestrating there, Hahahahaha!
That was very impressive. Goes to show with good techniques and attention to detail a skilled refiner is worth their weight in the yellow shiny stuff.
great video as always! love that little nugget at the end.
Very great jobs are love seeing you work.
That Buffing/Polishing Compound is something. We had to chisel it off the wall in the shop behind the wheel but there was no precious metals there as we mostly work with steel and aluminum. Looks like he might use Red Rouge
Waste not want not, I was really wondering how much was left. Perfect follow up video, thank you.
@sreetips I'd like to see a video on refining and pouring some copper. Would be a good video I think. Plus you can use that copper for cementing out the precious metals again.
@20:01 i thought someone had drawn a cute little smiley face on the rinse bottle, alas, it's a hazard placard looking sign that's faded 😢 c'est la vie 🤣
This was a great series, thank you Mr. Tips.
Nice, an unexpected fith part! The yellowish color of the muriatric acid comes from heme (Fe2+). In other words: There is iron in your acid, which is usually normal for technical grade acids.
Wow, 1/2 oz, it has to be a labor of love, all the time, cost of acids, equipment, square up with jewler, doesn't leave much for the chemist, but hey.
Very nice bonus video. Very enjoyable.
the buffer solids, i wonder if a ton of heat might carbonise some more of it now its a bit more refined.. if that fails maybe treat it with a cyanide leeching, its not something iv ever see you try, could be interesting to do on a small scale what they would do in massive batches with all kinds of natural contaminants
$1200 worth of Gold...That jeweler better do hand stands for ya Mstr. Ch.!! Lol 😂
A great epilogue to the series. Waste not want not!
Just sounds like some uv got to your acid? Or are the bottles uv proof?
Great to see your outstanding work as always.
Also. Slow motion beaker pouring is the strangest fettish I've ever heard of 😜
7:22 Yellow tint of hydrochloric acid is allowable for technical grade acid (up to 0,02% traces of iron, up to 0,008% of free chlorine. Both gives yellow tint). Perhaps earlier you got top grade muriatic acid (0.001% to 0.002% - iron, 0.002% - free chlorine, clear or slightly yellowish liquid), and now it closer to 1-st grade (0.015% - iron, 0.008% - free clorine, yellowish liquid).
Greetings!
Thank you for your exceptional educational videos.
now I'm thinking that I've missed a lot during my Chemistry courses.
Kinds Regards
Two of my favorite college classes were quantitative and qualitative analysis. I don't remember much of either any more, but the procedures and techniques learned there have been quite helpful.
A few words on the Acids you use.
The muriatic acid I buy is identical to yours, except I buy mine from Home Depot. They keep the acid outside in the cold and hot climate. Every time I go back to buy more, I see the same 2-pack boxes all weathered and dirty. I've also noticed recently the color of the acid has a slight yellow tint to it, I assume it's from being stored outdoors in the weather. I've never had any problems with it though. I usually just pick out the box that's the least fallen apart and buy it.
I have also purchased a 4-pack of 2.5L bottles of Nitric acid from Duda diesel. They came in a heavy duty styrofoam crate. I didn't like pouring the acid from those heavy glass bottles, so I transferred the acid to my old empty nitric acid bottles that I am used to handling. The acid was crystal clear in 3 of the 4 bottles, but the 4th bottle had a slight yellow tint to it. I've read that if you leave it exposed to UV light for too long, it will change color. I therefore keep the bottles stored in the original shipping container in complete darkness.
Good info, thank you.
I get the same acid from Ace Hardware for the pool and every once is a while it isn’t quite clear. I almost wonder if it got tipped and reacted with the glue on the seal under the cap.
Gratuitous slow-motion beaker rinse, nice.
That black stuff is Venom!! Lol 😂
That slow mo was hot 🔥
I was guessing 2 gram's.. Thank you for sharing with us.. Have a great day...
beautifully done. It really was a challenging mess to work with.
As a person that serviced in the NAVY, I bet there some interesting stories that are worthy to be told. The videos could be longer that way.
The slow-mo beaker rinse, lol... oh behave
That one was a long haul... Great job
Just wanted to say thank you for all the great knowledge and time you share with the community . I've watched you since you started and
Still learn new things every week from you. I would like to know how to buy
Nitric acid with out having to pay crazy Hazzard wast fees? I'm in Central NC and been ordering it from
Lab alley in TX. Maybe you can talk about how you get your chemicals.
Thanks again for all that you do!
I just bought some from dudadiesel.com
I think you should have given the piranha solution solids more than the one aqua regia treatment. There may well be a significant amount of gold remaining there.
I think there may have been some nitric acid left in the consolidation beaker - which would explain why the SMB seemed to act strangely.
Thomas Oliver Pryce, you naughty little devil!
Stock pot is looking pretty ripe.. any upcoming plans for Stock Pot Season 4?
U can see bottom of the bucket he accually just did that video very short time ago it was packed with cement silver
Good job! Way to put in that extra effort to squeeze the extra gold out
Hey Sreetips, you should show how much gold you can possibly lose in your solutions. Take your watch glass/dish and allow a drop to run off on your gold testing paper and test it with your tin solution for gold. It would be an eye-opener to many. That's why the big refineries always have a scrubber on their hoods.
Hello Arne
Excellent video thank you 😊
Wow literally like concrete that's crazy stuff man
Dude down at the mortuary is collecting jeweler and refiner lungs - lmfao 😆
If he is then he’s got a heavy price to pay.
Nice finish! I wonder if you couldn't get a chunk of the compound the jeweler uses and see if you can dissolve it using a petroleum product?
would be amazing if u did a slo mo on the gold drop with smb jeep up the great videos
How Long do you think until the silver cement out I'm just wondering so I can have an idea I intend to start processing when I get my fume hood done thank you for sharing this with us six stars brother
I may do a separate video on the silver.
Something I've always wondered about your operation -
What happens with all the waste fluids, waste materials, melt dishes, etc that are a byproduct of your refining? I assume the melt dishes you save up for a big "melt dish refining" video. The various fluids and buckets of stuff - Do you save everything forever? Do you just keep refining and refining and refining them until there's 0 of anything left, and THEN it's given to the waste treatment facility? Do you know what all is contained within the buckets and are disposing of them in a certain way, or is it all just "bulk waste chemical" that's treated and disposed of.
Cheers.
I process the waste prior to disposal.
I look forward to watching streetips videos. I want to see a video where he doesn't use silver and removes base metals. And only pulls gold out. He will have suspended gold. Let it settle, melt it, then put it into solution again. At that point it should act like regular gold?
I guess my comment on the previous video was premature!!
This is just what I was hoping for!
Have seen but the first couple of minutes of this video so I'm curious to know what remaining gold might be in there!!
Great recovery!
Hello sreetips friends. Hello Mrs and Mr sreetips. 07:50 Am here in kold Norway. Nice start in the morning, to see the clip. Thanks Sir😊
Hello!
I think the reason you needed to add so much smb was because when you added nitric to the sludgy solution you added 3 or 4 droppers full which is about 9 to 12 ml & it caused the gold to go back into solution.
My thoughts, I could be wrong.
Maybe take a pair of side cutters and cut the ring off the neck of the Nitric bottle that may help with the dripping
I'm gonna preface this by saying I just enjoy watching videos about refining and have never actually done this. But my thought is would there be a down side to using an excess of nitric in the recovery phase so you could ensure that all the gold is in solution and then boil it down after filtering to drive it off? Just because it seems near impossible it this state to know when you're done extracting gold using the incremental nitric method.
Great series, Chief!
Thank you for the content, I have a question when you siphon the liquid it looks like you are not sucking to start the process. How are you starting the siphoning process?
Fill the tube with water. Close one end with thumb. Stick other, open end, into the fluid being siphoned, point thumbed end into receiver bucket, let thumb off.
I was watching a guy on YT recovering some metals from catalytic converters using HCl, Ca(OCl)2, and Bleech to put the PGMs into solution and then used aluminum foil instead of zinc to cement the PGMs. If you intended to recover and refine the PGMs, are you going to try something different from last time?
I guess what I am really asking, is it impossible to separate all the PGMs?
Separating PGMs from each other is nearly impossible without highly specialized equipment, and highly specialized knowledge.
@@sreetips sounds like all you need is the equipment.
Could you start a 501c3?
Include in your videos the equipment you would need and like to get and start a GoFundMe.
@@sreetips Oh stop. You sell yourself short! You do very well with Pd, because you work up the Ag and collect the slimes. The only problem is that you need to process massive amounts of Ag to get a decent amount of Pd to collect. If you had a known Pd stream, you might be able to do better, quantity wise.
Pt and Rh ride with your Au work up and they also don't see big volumes to see a decent button.
It's nothing that you're doing wrong. It's the materials you have to work with.
A stressful but great video Mr. Sreetips! I don’t know if you’ve mentioned this before but how do I claim my part of our gold? 😂😂
YELLOW tint maybe some new regulations.... government has to have something to do.....like online application software engineers with their constant updates.
If you work with organic pastes or waxes again, try stripping with xylene and acetone rinses first
Awesome experiment on recovering all the gold Sreetips.
great video sreetips , it's hard to believe that at today's price ( 2/26/23 ) $58.59 per gram ) that small amount of gold ( both pieces ) is worth $1,072.19
What do you do with the copper that is cemented out on the iron?
Maybe melt it and pour it into a sand casting mold?
I just suggested he contact Robinson Foundry or ArtByAdrock to do somewhat of a crossover by sending it to them & having them cast it into something (BigStackD would be awesome, but it would probably cost a fortune to send some to W. Australia)
Toss it
@@sreetips You could send it around again.
Thank you for the great video. Can you remove gold from rock or sand this way? Thanks
I think that’s a different process, I do t have experience with rock or sand.
That reply is so You. Normal people would say “No” or “I can’t “ but not you. You say “I haven’t done that yet.” I learned how to think like that when I was in the Navy. The real answer to “Can you do something?” is “I really don’t know what all I can do, but I bet I’ll be good at it.” I love your videos. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge.
dude ive started talking like you when im explaining stuff
If you turn the nitric acid bottle a quarter turn like a wine bottle it won't drop down the neck
Part 5!!!! What a great video as always sir. One question though where do you get the squeeze bottles you keep your distilled water and Hydrochloric acid in?
Grainger
They come makes “distilled water” but the markings quickly wear off.
@@sreetips perfect thank you.
It was a lot of compound for the fair amount recovered. Dealing with it all looked like a nightmare assuming because of the wax. The Piranha solution seems like the best way to deal with it but that would be a large refining process, might be worth in the end. Don't know how much the Piranha solution and all that would end up costing for the gold recovered but gold can be upsold when done into rings. I kinda wonder if a simple soap solution to break down the wax would be easier or if it won't be able to break it down enough to release the gold.
I totally love your videos I seriously think you could pull gold from a turd 😆😆
In the next stock pot series, I'd like to see the final treatment of the iron bucket solution addressed
He's don't that a couple times on camera i think. Iirc it involves lye.
What a spectacular video series. A lot of work for the jeweler! Hopefully he watches the series and sees how hard you worked to get him the metal. And it's probably more data for accurate estimation of this type of dust scrap too. Just a fabulous series.
A nice way to bookend a Sunday.
Thank you for a Making this one
When you’re watching an older sreetips video, get done and find out a new sreetips video just posted. 😙👌
Thanks for the video fam 💯
I have a request. Can you do a breakdown of the cost of chemicals, supplies and profit? Thanks Sreetips!
Less than $50 in chemicals. Profit was zero. I did it for my friend the jeweler for free
I'm super curious to find out what the undissolved solids were.. all I can think of is plastic.. would an acetone wash first would help since it disolves plastic and not metals?? IDK just trying to think of a solution hah pun-y =)
It’s a very fine paste of dirt, abrasive grit, sand, and insoluble junk. Almost all the precious metals have been removed. Pretty much worthless.
Ever think to do the extraction of messy stuff backwards.. like put all precious metals into solution and then cementing out the different metals as u would ur waste solutions??
I’ll try cementing some gold with copper.
You might try melting all the solids down in a flux mix and crucible with some lead or bismuth collector metal see if you can get more out might help get rid of the polishing compound
For someone with the experience that would be a way to do it. For me, with absolutely no experience, I’m not going to experiment and risk losing some of his metal. I’ll stick to what I know how to do. Wet chemical process.
Would it not yield a better result to try extracting the jewelers compound from the pms than the pms from the compound?
Possibly
I think you posted a video in the past where the solution would go back into solution right after you applied the SMB. I think you said it was due to still having an excess nitric acid still in the beaker. Anyway, I could be mistaken. Keep the videos coming!
That’s correct,
Wuuuu... I love the slo-mo babe... 😜 but where's music?
On the order concerning chemicals: How much for this refining did it cost for all the chemicals used? Did it justify the value of the refining value?
Probably less than fifty bucks
Noting the cost of chemicals and the cost of propane/acetylene is there a point when fire assay recovery is cheaper/easier/better than wet chemical recovery of precious metals? What process did the jewelery trade use before you came to their aid?
One time, the jeweler send in bobbing compound, they tried to recover it by furnace and botched it. They tried to pay him 1/3 of the expected yield. Regular guy at the refinery was off that week. Jeweler called and questioned it. The regular guy came back off vacation. They payed out the expected yield and apologized. End result: don’t experiment with unfamiliar processes with other peoples material. I use wet chemical because I’m familiar with it. It’s what I know and I’m confident in getting a proper result.