I've been watching DIY / automation / manufacturing / crafting videos for the better part of a decade and must admit you have the best quality output I have ever seen.
I need more videos. Your work across the cinematography parts to the actual content is so insanely good I’ve binged your whole channel in a day. This stuff is making me really want to dive deeper into this world beyond just 3D printing.
I call this positive halves with the dividing wall(s) “inverse molds.” Used this several times and always amazed when the poured halves fit so precisely together.
I am pleasantly surprised it worked that well (likely due the compliance in the silicone when clamped and contained in ridged braces) From previous experience, it’s never as tight and clean as doing two castings with one master.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, your videos are art mate. I’ve really enjoyed the process, and whilst I’m intrigued to see how this pans out, I’m already imagining what’s coming next? You could make almost anything with your skills! (Also, I hope people/companies who make machines are watching your content and thinking ‘we should send this guy one of our 5axis cnc’s’ or whatever, would be worth it for them!)
Absolute joy to watch your process! Learning a lot! Also, thank you so much for not adding background music. It's how instructional material should be! Looking forward to watching more of your work
Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos and they’re helpful to you! Yes I agree, videos like these where information is being conveyed really doesn’t need any music. Thank you again for watching!
Your thoughts and approach are outstanding, my friend. I have been working in this field for 9 years, and creating an ideal product requires time, effort, and patience. You are amazing.
As many have stated, thank you for the time that you put into these videos. @ericstrebel does similar small batch production and prototyping and it’s cool to see you both working through the process.
Wow, not only the style of making this videos like cinematic looking, also the logic behind the processes and how something is done is just amazing. I am always hyped to see your new videos! Normaly i am not the guy who comments. But in that case i want to push your videos, support you and want to say thanks for this high quality making videos. Best regards from germany!
As a movie prop maker all I can say your dedication and skills are outstanding. Also, the quality of your video is extraordinary. I wish I could have you in my crew. Oh, and you got a new subscriber. Keep on the good work!
I've made a lot of molds in my life, also quite complicated ones, but I have never used an approach like this and never even thought that it could be done like this. Thank you for that awesome idea. I'm definitely going to try it someday and I'm going to advise some of my fellow ex-colleagues to try it out also.
Мне нравится стиль твоих видео, как ты работаешь над каждым кадром и подсъемами! Отличная работа с освещением! Педантичный подход к проектам. За это я и люблю твои видео и радуюсь, когда выходит новое видео!
You can not imagine how excited I get when I see you have uploaded a new video. Well done mate! Top notch video, workflow and insights. Really enjoyed this 🙌🏽
Stoked to get my hands on one of these if i can afford it lol. I do very similar stuff in one offs for custom vehicle interiors. Using these work flows is a pretty niche world, so its cool to see other peoples design and production processes.
Nice process, i only make coasters and coaster holders at the moment and 3d print a positive master mould, then coat that in epoxy resin to give it a smooth and shiny surface, then pour silicone rubber into that to make the negative mould, then use resin to make the final part.
As always it's so enjoyable watching you work. A master at your craft. And as always I learn something new everytime. Also the cinematography is way too good for a RUclips channel! You should make movies!
Hearing you talking about casting a tube within the casting sounds interesting. But I wanted to highlight that this is an issue if it goes anywhere near the pressure tank (in case you had not thought about it, which I am sure you have). Love this video. I am "trying" to create a cast product, and it takes all my time to concentrate on this, let alone your detailed video setups. I have no idea how you manage all these workflows at once. Well done to you; the video and the productions look amazing. First time here, but subscribing and diving into the archive.
A quote I wish I had come up with: 'Necessity is the mother of all invention", with perhaps my own footnote, "THEN you refine your options." This is a textbook example of prototypes versus production though. Waiting until you get into injection molding. 👍
Really enjoy watching the thought you put into every video and every project. Professional across all mediums you work in. I'm hoping to follow your lead in creating my own molds for some multi-part products I've been 3D printing until now. Seeing your detailed process has already given me a whole picture of things I would have missed or made mistakes on before even starting.
Always putting out fantastic content and fascinating to watch 👏 Why not incorporate the 'prop up angle' into the base of the mould when printing? removes a couple more steps from the process. Great work
Great work and passion! What about the problem of platium-silicon does not cure/inhibit problem with resin-printed forms? You did't seal your forms ... so maybe your resin material does not have that issue? Whoch material are you using? Or is it just like magic ...
Hey, thanks for watching! A fair few people have asked about this, so I’ve posted my reply to them below as it’s relevant to the question you have. “It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video. This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone. The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon. I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out. I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!”
Really amazing job you're doing, inspired by you man.. Wish you all the best, I like the idea of making a way to make a lot of molds for production 🥰😃✨
Thank you man! Really appreciate that! It’s been so nice not having to do mould prep with clay and barrier’s to make a new mould. Really happy with that system. As I said in the video, the extra work upfront will reduce any friction in creating multiple moulds. Wish you the best too man and thank you for watching!
Could you dive deeper into the resin printing side of things. Seeing how easy your prints come off it looks like your settings are dialed in really well.
Hmmm I’ve had issues with curing platinum silicone with resin printed masters. This lead me to use tin based silicone. Are you using platinum because I’d love to switch back. I’m sure it’s something I did wrong.
Thanks for watching. Someone else asked this same question so I’ve pasted my reply to them below as it’s relevant to your question. “Thank you! It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video. This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone. The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon. I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out. I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!”
great content. you are an inspiration. i have some ideas for a few products, that i want to bring to life. i got a 3d printer . want to get a scanner and i know nothing about cad or 3d modeling. i was a tattoo artist for 12 years and do digital art. so hopefully shouldn't be too much of a learning curve for me. one of my ideas is a universal fender mirror set up for 70's JDM cars. love your charger design and the car inspiration in it. cheers brother. love and the pursuit of the trurth
The tube should work, I have done something pretty much the same: 3D printed tube embedded in an homemade epoxy-CF putty. Besides that, stunning content!
On Robert Tolone channel he has a few tips n trick with silicone that maybe of interest. Mould preservation etc. using positive pressure in some cases to pop bubbles. The other channel that may be worthwhile is “out of darts”. The workshop tours the guy has done have some scaling tips. There are 3 or 4 so far, the first couple he mentioned a couple of books that talk about efficiency of work flow. As a result he came up with magnetic jig that held the magnets that were inserted in the nerf guns. He quickly gets a magnet, holds near jig, it attached to jig magnet (glued) then the pulls the arbour press handle to inset four magnets at a time. It took seconds instead of minutes. He has other things about order of operations and setup of workspace to maximize time saving. Less walking is more production sort of stuff. A high tea style rack that you load and you drop into the vacuum chamber would be handy - saves you having to reach down into the chamber with wet resin. That could spill. Time efficiency is critical. Anything you can do to speed up workflow is more profit…
mükemmel bir işçilik ve bilgi tebrik ederim birader çok güzel. ülkemde senin saç sitilinde gezen insanlar 50tl için adam bıçaklıyor. ön yargılı olmamak lazımmış.
Yes, the extra time you put in at the front end always pays off. I've memorized all of my important numbers. You wouldn't believe how convenient it is to just rattle off your bank account number, rather than go digging for your checkbook.
@@OwnTwoHands_ happy to hear you like the content! I’ve been neglecting videos lately and hope to get back at it again soon! This channel is inspiring!
Man I love your videos. So inspiring and perfectly executed! But there's one thing I can't wrap my head around: what kind of UV-Resin do you use so you can sort of directly pour silicone on it? This was always the most annoying thing because my resin would inhibit the silicone curing
Thank you! It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video. This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone. The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon. I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out. I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!
Must be a damn good feeling when so many orders are coming in that you need to optimize production workflow. Can you say what type of urethane resin you're using for the cast parts? I've never had any luck casting urethane without a pressure pot.
I am loving being able to follow your process! How are you doing the exploded view animations on Fusion 360? They look so smooth with all the parts moving in syn. Thank you in advance!!!
Could you place the moulds on a plate that is attached to an ultrasonic cleaner. The vibrations would help the Bubbles evacuate as you pour and before they set up.
Thank you! I’ll be making a video soon covering the basics. The idea is to create a component to mould and create a box mould without using any sort of tech like a 3D printer. I’m hoping this will help people who are just getting into mould making. Thanks for watching!
hi congratulations for your work I like all your works why don't you make other videos where you make the molds besides this one which up to now are very interesting and I think you are very good at making them
Hi there! Our team at ShapeShifters TV recently created a reaction video to one of your videos. We’d love for you to check it out and let us know what you think! We focused on mold making skills , and we’re eager to hear your thoughts. Thank you!
If I were to describe to you a general shape of a future product that would be made out of thin flexible silicone (very much like a dessert baking mold but would have a totally different use sorry I cannot tell you the product yet) could you tell me whether it is possible for me to make a mold for this myself? How do you make a mold of something with a thin wall thickness, has a specific shape. Does clay play a role?
I've been following this for a while now. I love your content, filming, the care you put into what you are doing. But I have no clue what you are actually making. What is it for?
Yeah absolutely. I’ve printed some FDM matrix mould shells. I haven’t done this exact setup with the masters built in, but I have done it with clay in the example I mentioned towards the beginning. I’d suggest watching the video I did on moulding the oak plaques. I use FDM printed shells in that video showing the exact process. The one thing I like to do with the FDM prints is coat the interior of the shells with a brush on epoxy, like the XCR resin from Easy Composites. This just gives the shell a smooth surface for the silicone to take an impression of rather than it picking up all the layer lines from the print. This is just an extra step I like to take to ensure that the silicone seats back into the shell well.
Hello Friend, please advise a very good liquid plastic for pouring into silicone. The parts need to be light and as strong as possible. Thank you very much.🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hey, whats the advantage of making the silicon inserts for inside your mould shells for moulding the finished pu parts? Surely thats a carryover from the days of making a replica of a physical part to mould from? in this case, you are a skilled CAD operator, you can design the parts to get you perfect mould negative cad parts, and you have a hi def resin printer, so you can print your moulds...why not just mould directly the Polyeurethane into a printed resin mould? Ill level with you, I'm fishing for information. I'm a mechanical engineer moonlighting as a product design engineer in my current role at work....i don't have the greatest amount of experience moulding TPU (although i ve printed hundreds of go pro mounts in it on my side hustle at home), and ive taken it upon myself to redesign a safety lanyard for something that i intend to make out of polyurethane 6-90A (not sure yet) Theres no way i have time to go to the absolute fine detail you are doing, and i didnt buy any silicone, just a bunch of different PU grades from smooth-on. I am simply prototyping to ascertain the best grade of PU to use, and size /strength test my critical features, but i am simply planning to print the mould negatives on our resin printer in 2 halves and pour directly into it (well actually i purchased a massive syringe to do it, so i am definitely intrigued with your simple pour method).
The amount of work you must put in to make every single shot so clear, perfect lighting, framing, audio... outstanding
Expect the black colour t shirt while holding black colour part
I agree. I subscribed to get framing ideas for my own videos.
I've been watching DIY / automation / manufacturing / crafting videos for the better part of a decade and must admit you have the best quality output I have ever seen.
This is the best video I've seen for showcasing the product development process.
When I see you put out a video, I get so excited!
Thank you man! I appreciate the continued support and hope you enjoyed the video!
Your attention to detail makes my OCD very happy 🙏
I need more videos. Your work across the cinematography parts to the actual content is so insanely good I’ve binged your whole channel in a day. This stuff is making me really want to dive deeper into this world beyond just 3D printing.
This series is already a treasure trove, going to be a true masterclass once it ships.
the amount of work you do is so worth it for when you open it, that 1st part reveal was beautiful. excellent videos and work.
I call this positive halves with the dividing wall(s) “inverse molds.” Used this several times and always amazed when the poured halves fit so precisely together.
I am pleasantly surprised it worked that well (likely due the compliance in the silicone when clamped and contained in ridged braces)
From previous experience, it’s never as tight and clean as doing two castings with one master.
Brother, this is the best video in terms of quality and the amount of information about prototypes/short production. Excellent, thanks for sharing!
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, your videos are art mate. I’ve really enjoyed the process, and whilst I’m intrigued to see how this pans out, I’m already imagining what’s coming next? You could make almost anything with your skills! (Also, I hope people/companies who make machines are watching your content and thinking ‘we should send this guy one of our 5axis cnc’s’ or whatever, would be worth it for them!)
one of best diy channel in youtube!!!
Absolute joy to watch your process! Learning a lot! Also, thank you so much for not adding background music. It's how instructional material should be! Looking forward to watching more of your work
Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos and they’re helpful to you! Yes I agree, videos like these where information is being conveyed really doesn’t need any music. Thank you again for watching!
Mashallah this is true artistry, love all your videos. Keep making more!! and I love your calmness.
Your thoughts and approach are outstanding, my friend. I have been working in this field for 9 years, and creating an ideal product requires time, effort, and patience. You are amazing.
As many have stated, thank you for the time that you put into these videos. @ericstrebel does similar small batch production and prototyping and it’s cool to see you both working through the process.
Wow, not only the style of making this videos like cinematic looking, also the logic behind the processes and how something is done is just amazing. I am always hyped to see your new videos! Normaly i am not the guy who comments. But in that case i want to push your videos, support you and want to say thanks for this high quality making videos. Best regards from germany!
As a movie prop maker all I can say your dedication and skills are outstanding. Also, the quality of your video is extraordinary.
I wish I could have you in my crew.
Oh, and you got a new subscriber. Keep on the good work!
I can not express how I enjoy watching this series.
I've made a lot of molds in my life, also quite complicated ones, but I have never used an approach like this and never even thought that it could be done like this. Thank you for that awesome idea. I'm definitely going to try it someday and I'm going to advise some of my fellow ex-colleagues to try it out also.
Your work is outstanding dude, love how you approach every single part of the process of it. CCCCongrats!! Keep it up!
Thank you man! Yeah I tend to be very particular about most things 😅 blessing and a curse! Thank you for watching and for the support!
Very well described step-by-step method and well edited material. I look forward to more videos like this :)
Dude, your videos are amazing, they make my head spin, understanding the relationship between these models... but fantastic work.
Мне нравится стиль твоих видео, как ты работаешь над каждым кадром и подсъемами! Отличная работа с освещением! Педантичный подход к проектам. За это я и люблю твои видео и радуюсь, когда выходит новое видео!
You can not imagine how excited I get when I see you have uploaded a new video. Well done mate! Top notch video, workflow and insights. Really enjoyed this 🙌🏽
That result was sooooooo clean. Awesome work.
You need way more views on this video
I love seeing the process and your explanations for why you do each step. Keep up the great work! It's always a good day when you drop a new video.
He's Back. Straight Fire!!
Stoked to get my hands on one of these if i can afford it lol.
I do very similar stuff in one offs for custom vehicle interiors. Using these work flows is a pretty niche world, so its cool to see other peoples design and production processes.
Un saludo desde Medellín, Colombia. Sos un genio!
the amount of work you are putting in is priceless. you have my respect. wish I could work with you.
Dude, I'm impressed. What quality instructions and video you show! Inspirational.
Everything you do looks so clean and cinematic. But please wear a mask when sanding polymers, especially when using carbon fiber mixin :)
Thank you for making these videos. They provide valuable insight into production at scale.
As always - so inspiring and make me want to learn more about casting and sla printing. Thanks for sharing your journey.
This is pure relaxation for my brain.
The amount of time you make us hold our breath each time waiting for your next video is just cruel. 😂❤
Thanks for putting this together. Clean, clear, insightful.
Nice process, i only make coasters and coaster holders at the moment and 3d print a positive master mould, then coat that in epoxy resin to give it a smooth and shiny surface, then pour silicone rubber into that to make the negative mould, then use resin to make the final part.
I'm absolutely stunned, man. Excellent craftsmanship and great mindset.
I just love prototyping and going into a small batch production process. Nice work!
As always it's so enjoyable watching you work. A master at your craft. And as always I learn something new everytime. Also the cinematography is way too good for a RUclips channel! You should make movies!
Hearing you talking about casting a tube within the casting sounds interesting. But I wanted to highlight that this is an issue if it goes anywhere near the pressure tank (in case you had not thought about it, which I am sure you have). Love this video. I am "trying" to create a cast product, and it takes all my time to concentrate on this, let alone your detailed video setups. I have no idea how you manage all these workflows at once. Well done to you; the video and the productions look amazing. First time here, but subscribing and diving into the archive.
Yeah this totally satisfies my engineering OCD. Wish I had you patience mate!!
Your method is excellent and much better than mine. I love your solution for the polyurethane pouring sprue.💯💯💯💯💯💯
A quote I wish I had come up with: 'Necessity is the mother of all invention", with perhaps my own footnote, "THEN you refine your options."
This is a textbook example of prototypes versus production though. Waiting until you get into injection molding. 👍
Thanks this process is amazing! I learned a lot!
Living the dream, looks like so much fun (I love molds) - I'm in.
Your skill level is insane. Keep it up! ❤
Oh, I am also printung two half-masters) Thank you for the new video!
Really enjoy watching the thought you put into every video and every project. Professional across all mediums you work in. I'm hoping to follow your lead in creating my own molds for some multi-part products I've been 3D printing until now. Seeing your detailed process has already given me a whole picture of things I would have missed or made mistakes on before even starting.
Dude, I dont have the iPhone and am not going tj buy one, but I can't wait to buy this stand! 😃
Impeccable work as usual!
Nice upgrade to the work flow.
Always putting out fantastic content and fascinating to watch 👏 Why not incorporate the 'prop up angle' into the base of the mould when printing? removes a couple more steps from the process. Great work
Genius at work.
Amazing work as always!
Great work and passion! What about the problem of platium-silicon does not cure/inhibit problem with resin-printed forms? You did't seal your forms ... so maybe your resin material does not have that issue? Whoch material are you using? Or is it just like magic ...
Hey, thanks for watching! A fair few people have asked about this, so I’ve posted my reply to them below as it’s relevant to the question you have.
“It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video.
This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone.
The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon.
I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out.
I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!”
txh! waiting for test, looking for this technology a lot of time
Really amazing job you're doing, inspired by you man.. Wish you all the best, I like the idea of making a way to make a lot of molds for production 🥰😃✨
Thank you man! Really appreciate that! It’s been so nice not having to do mould prep with clay and barrier’s to make a new mould. Really happy with that system. As I said in the video, the extra work upfront will reduce any friction in creating multiple moulds. Wish you the best too man and thank you for watching!
This video helped me fall asleep.
Fantastic!
Could you dive deeper into the resin printing side of things. Seeing how easy your prints come off it looks like your settings are dialed in really well.
Hmmm I’ve had issues with curing platinum silicone with resin printed masters. This lead me to use tin based silicone. Are you using platinum because I’d love to switch back. I’m sure it’s something I did wrong.
Same to me ....
Thanks for watching. Someone else asked this same question so I’ve pasted my reply to them below as it’s relevant to your question.
“Thank you! It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video.
This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone.
The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon.
I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out.
I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!”
where do you get your silicone from mate?
great content. you are an inspiration. i have some ideas for a few products, that i want to bring to life. i got a 3d printer . want to get a scanner and i know nothing about cad or 3d modeling. i was a tattoo artist for 12 years and do digital art. so hopefully shouldn't be too much of a learning curve for me. one of my ideas is a universal fender mirror set up for 70's JDM cars. love your charger design and the car inspiration in it. cheers brother. love and the pursuit of the trurth
beautiful work
Thanks!
The tube should work, I have done something pretty much the same: 3D printed tube embedded in an homemade epoxy-CF putty.
Besides that, stunning content!
On Robert Tolone channel he has a few tips n trick with silicone that maybe of interest. Mould preservation etc. using positive pressure in some cases to pop bubbles.
The other channel that may be worthwhile is “out of darts”. The workshop tours the guy has done have some scaling tips. There are 3 or 4 so far, the first couple he mentioned a couple of books that talk about efficiency of work flow. As a result he came up with magnetic jig that held the magnets that were inserted in the nerf guns. He quickly gets a magnet, holds near jig, it attached to jig magnet (glued) then the pulls the arbour press handle to inset four magnets at a time. It took seconds instead of minutes. He has other things about order of operations and setup of workspace to maximize time saving. Less walking is more production sort of stuff.
A high tea style rack that you load and you drop into the vacuum chamber would be handy - saves you having to reach down into the chamber with wet resin. That could spill.
Time efficiency is critical. Anything you can do to speed up workflow is more profit…
Hope to see this product on sale soon!
awesome content, can you do a video on shot blasting?
Thanks! Yeah I can cover some shot blasting in a video. Anything specific you’d like to know? Thanks for watching!
@@RTAFabrication yes, technique on doing it for 3D printer mould and setup would be great
mükemmel bir işçilik ve bilgi tebrik ederim birader çok güzel. ülkemde senin saç sitilinde gezen insanlar 50tl için adam bıçaklıyor. ön yargılı olmamak lazımmış.
Yes, the extra time you put in at the front end always pays off. I've memorized all of my important numbers. You wouldn't believe how convenient it is to just rattle off your bank account number, rather than go digging for your checkbook.
Mesmerising to watch
Amazing work! did you just use regular platinum silicone on the resin prints without having any cure inhibition?
I don't understand half of what you're talking about but its super interesting and beautifully presented
Hey, I stumbled upon your awesome webpage few months ago! I didn't know you have a YT channel as well:)
@@OwnTwoHands_ happy to hear you like the content! I’ve been neglecting videos lately and hope to get back at it again soon! This channel is inspiring!
now make a mould of the mould to make multiple moulds without printing every mould again for mass production. hahah
Haha this genuinely did cross my mind for the for the ultimate workflow 😅 thanks for watching!
Man I love your videos. So inspiring and perfectly executed!
But there's one thing I can't wrap my head around: what kind of UV-Resin do you use so you can sort of directly pour silicone on it? This was always the most annoying thing because my resin would inhibit the silicone curing
Thank you! It’s funny, I’ve had a fair few comments about this, and ironically I had a whole section in this video mentioning it which I removed which I’m now regretting! I only removed it due to the length of the video.
This is something I get asked about a lot. Weirdly this is never an issue I’ve ever faced. I’ll always either use the Mann Ease Release 200 spray on mould release or I’d paint the master. Both create a barrier between the print itself and the silicone. On the multi cavity mould with the 4 masters built in, I didn’t actually spray mould release on it as a test to definitively see if I’d get any cure inhibition. As you saw, I had no cure inhibitions which surprised me! I went on to say that I’m not sure if it’s down to the SLA resins I use, or the silicone, or the cure settings, or time after curing the part and moulding. I’ve had many people say they use the same SLA resins and have had issues, so my best guess would be that it’s the platinum silicone.
The resins in the video were from HeyGears, the PAWR10 is the beige/ creamy colour and the PAU10 is the grey resin. I have an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K which I usually use AnyCubic ABS like with 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious mixed in. I’ve never had any cure inhibitions with any of those resins. The silicone I used in this video is a sample of a silicone I’ll be releasing soon.
I also said in the clip that I cut that I might do some thorough testing to try and get cure inhibitions so I’m able to figure out which variable is enabling me to do this to try help others out.
I hope that’s helpful in some way and thanks for watching!
For the tunnel wouldn't it be a faster and cleaner process to build a jig for drillpress?
This is awesome!!!, would you consider showing a little bit of your Fusion 360 workflow? your video quality is top notch btw.
Is the outside of the resin moulds that intricate because it's required f structural integrity or did you make it like that just for looks?
Must be a damn good feeling when so many orders are coming in that you need to optimize production workflow. Can you say what type of urethane resin you're using for the cast parts? I've never had any luck casting urethane without a pressure pot.
I am loving being able to follow your process! How are you doing the exploded view animations on Fusion 360? They look so smooth with all the parts moving in syn. Thank you in advance!!!
Could you place the moulds on a plate that is attached to an ultrasonic cleaner. The vibrations would help the Bubbles evacuate as you pour and before they set up.
will that expensive printer combo really pay for itself? Seems fantastic. I need to return to resin printing, filament isn't getting it done.
Great video
You have blessed hands... where can I learn the basic technique?
Thank you! I’ll be making a video soon covering the basics. The idea is to create a component to mould and create a box mould without using any sort of tech like a 3D printer. I’m hoping this will help people who are just getting into mould making. Thanks for watching!
@@RTAFabrication It will be very good, I wish you success, I think it is one of the necessary skills
Thx for a other great interesting video
How do you deal with silicone inhibition with the resin print?
How do you get the 3D printed parts to not locally inhibit the silicone curing on and give a sticky surface ?
hi congratulations for your work I like all your works why don't you make other videos where you make the molds besides this one which up to now are very interesting and I think you are very good at making them
Hi there! Our team at ShapeShifters TV recently created a reaction video to one of your videos. We’d love for you to check it out and let us know what you think! We focused on mold making skills , and we’re eager to hear your thoughts.
Thank you!
why did you pour the resin in the bottle and then let it drain out again?
What kind of tolerance do you use for holes?
Молодцом!
If I were to describe to you a general shape of a future product that would be made out of thin flexible silicone (very much like a dessert baking mold but would have a totally different use sorry I cannot tell you the product yet) could you tell me whether it is possible for me to make a mold for this myself? How do you make a mold of something with a thin wall thickness, has a specific shape. Does clay play a role?
Any ideas how much these masterpieces are going to cost once they’re available to purchase?
I've been following this for a while now. I love your content, filming, the care you put into what you are doing. But I have no clue what you are actually making. What is it for?
Let's say I have an FDM printer. Would I be able to make it work with this? If so, then how so?
Yeah absolutely. I’ve printed some FDM matrix mould shells. I haven’t done this exact setup with the masters built in, but I have done it with clay in the example I mentioned towards the beginning. I’d suggest watching the video I did on moulding the oak plaques. I use FDM printed shells in that video showing the exact process. The one thing I like to do with the FDM prints is coat the interior of the shells with a brush on epoxy, like the XCR resin from Easy Composites. This just gives the shell a smooth surface for the silicone to take an impression of rather than it picking up all the layer lines from the print. This is just an extra step I like to take to ensure that the silicone seats back into the shell well.
Hello Friend, please advise a very good liquid plastic for pouring into silicone. The parts need to be light and as strong as possible. Thank you very much.🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
What’s your camera setup?
I use a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 6K (BMPCC6k) with a Meike FF 35mm cine lens.
Hey, whats the advantage of making the silicon inserts for inside your mould shells for moulding the finished pu parts? Surely thats a carryover from the days of making a replica of a physical part to mould from? in this case, you are a skilled CAD operator, you can design the parts to get you perfect mould negative cad parts, and you have a hi def resin printer, so you can print your moulds...why not just mould directly the Polyeurethane into a printed resin mould?
Ill level with you, I'm fishing for information. I'm a mechanical engineer moonlighting as a product design engineer in my current role at work....i don't have the greatest amount of experience moulding TPU (although i ve printed hundreds of go pro mounts in it on my side hustle at home), and ive taken it upon myself to redesign a safety lanyard for something that i intend to make out of polyurethane 6-90A (not sure yet)
Theres no way i have time to go to the absolute fine detail you are doing, and i didnt buy any silicone, just a bunch of different PU grades from smooth-on. I am simply prototyping to ascertain the best grade of PU to use, and size /strength test my critical features, but i am simply planning to print the mould negatives on our resin printer in 2 halves and pour directly into it (well actually i purchased a massive syringe to do it, so i am definitely intrigued with your simple pour method).