Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I’ve never done this before and I want to do a custom bike with my kid, so your explanations are perfect for regular people that are not bike experts!! Thanks again!!
Man you're well educated in that subject I'm overwhelmed yet feeling more informed I'll never do what you do but it sure was interesting to find out someone who is so informed about this stuff I'm sure you're very talented peace brother.
Thank you for this video. It has helped me grasp a lot more of the frame-building world. I am a metal fabricator and have been wanting to get into bike building as well. Well done!
"Double butted" means that it tapers down at one end, then tapers up at the other end. Fuji used to offer "Quad butted" Valite tubing but its simpler just to butt once down to the smallest wall thickness. Seat tubes are often "Single Butted" because the clamped seatpost forms the butting at the top of the tube.
Great video. You can also get a rough idea of butt length and location of the change in wall thickness by looking through the tube at a light source and seeing where the reflection angle changes.
I thought about including that in the video. Sometimes that method works fine enough, but I haven't always found it to be that easy to get great measurements. It's definitely a good tool to have in the toolkit though.
Yo this new series is dope. I’d like to make a request tho. Can you talk about bike geometry or how one can learn more about it? Cuz it’s real hard to weed out the inaccurate stuff about it on the internet. ✌🏽
It used to be on the Reynolds website (reynolds.co.uk). Basically they stick a mandrel (steel bar with a ball at the end) inside the tube and turn the tube to almost "rolling-pin" it thinner (squishing between the ball and a die) in the middle, as the length of the tube expands.
Thanks so much for this extraordinary video! I learned such a lot about the tubes, their body, the things that you have be aware of, and and and. You reminded me that a tube is for example not necessarily having the same thickness, how to find out where the thicer end might be. Any questions open for me as a non professional man, screwing on old bikes. Thanks again and many greetings from Germany 🇩🇪👍✌️🌞🍀💪
I wrecked a swedging machine when I was a young guy. It's great big hydraulic ram. Inner or outer is either a tube or a bullet. It grabs the tube in a big one way hydraulic chuck and crames it in to or over the dye. Lots and lots of power.... and a kicker to get the tube-inner dye off the tube. If you don't back the kicker off and switch to a bullet dye. The machine jams and 300 tons per square inch blows the front of the ram off... Granted this machine was for down hole pipe up to 24".
That fork start as thin as the tapered end. Than, it they put it in a mold and push pressured fluid into it to form it into shape. Hence it is called hydro-formed.
Thanks that was cool. I have a question i have a Jamie S2 631 Reynolds steel, I’m looking a getting a touring bike built with Tange 2 tubing I was wondering if you hand any idea how those 2 stacked up. Thanks for your time
Hello Your videos are amazing thanks for the good value. You have any idea what is the tool needed to shape an alluminum tube with a smaller diameter on one side leading to a bigger diameter on the other?
Any good recommendations on affordable tubing and sources for rack and/or trailer building? I'd love to source some 10mm but don't know the most economical places to order from or what sort of dimensions would be recommended.
Great video, can you help me understand what size head tube I’d need if I were using a 1-1/8” steering tube with a thread less headset? I’m not sure what inside diameter tube I’ll need. Thanks, Al ps check out the batmobile I built
I would like to have a frame built from Reynolds tubing for a combo touring-gravel-commuter all rounder bicycle. For overall STRENGTH-FLEXIBILITY and the LIGHTEST weight, is Reynolds 631 or 525 appropriate?
It is a huge difference between the various demands of touring, commuting, sport or club riding. A loaded touring bike should have as a general rule more tire clearances, longer chain stays, powerful brakes, lots of braze ons for all the racks, lights and extra water bottles. The head tube about 72 degrees and trail of at least 1 3/4 inches. Oversized down tube for stiffness. Great bike for loaded touring but a slug for commuting. Save your money and buy several bikes to meet your specific needs....
@@kirstenspencer3630 Why several? Makes more sense to equip ONE good overall TOURING bike. Is Reynold's tubing superior, inferior or the same as Columbus?
@@jakobw135 Reynolds tubing uses MANGANESE which adds toughness and superior fatigue resistance. The tubing actually gets stronger with use. Columbus uses Chromium and Molybdenum to add strength and toughness. Other manufactures of bicycle specific tubing are excellent choises as well. Ishowata tubing is triple vacuum melted a costly proceedure to remove non metalic inclusions. Drawing process and being drawn over a mandrel in creates a refined grain in the metal. The diameter of the tubing and wall thickness has a huge influence in the feel of the frame. A classic race road bike has entirely different construction and geometry than a loaded touring frame. Specialized sold a loaded touring bike in the late 1980's that predates the rockhoppers that can be found and can be a " turn key " solution. Budget friendly. Each use is mutualy exclusive and while possible to use a single bike for all purpose highly not recommended. Have you ever experienced a " speed wobble " ?
Super informative thank you! Are there any considerations for tubing diameter and thickness for a first lugged frame building project? Where aesthetics and frame performance is not so important as an easier build. Also for butted tubing, do you have any thoughts on the minimum length of the butt that needs to remain at either end after cutting to size? I'll be taking a fair amount off so wonder if straight gauge is more suitable.
Hey. Regarding your MTB frame build... why dont you let your downtube straight and ad a bumpstop to it to resist the forkcrown. Gives you the added benefit of not chrashing the cocpit into the toptube. Alsow its said a straight downtube makes for a stiffer headtube area.
There can be some issues that arise from such an arrangement: 1. The headtube could shear off in a crash. If the fork crown clears the DT without interference then this isn't a worry. 2. Finding a knock block to mitigate that fork crown impact to the DT can be difficult- what material works best? How do you attach it to the frame? 3. A DT fork crown stopper limits steering angle, which for someone who rides with a trials style over some trail features can find this really annoying.
@@bradcomis1066 A big part of the trek mtb family is is doing it that way (not negating what you said). The bump stop has to be some kind of hard rubber (soft plastic). Maybe you can buy a bumpstop from a specialized epic hardtail. And the steering angle shouldn't be a problem... I'm riding around for years with canyon mtb's which have a similar kind of TT protection called IPU (impact protection unit) no problems even on the steepest of hair turns.
Are "stainless steel tubes" different somehow from "steel tubes" when it comes to welding/brazing etc... which are better? I just wander, because if i use stainless steel tubes, i can polish them and leave some parts of the frame unpainted .. is that make any sense ?(sorry about my english).
Stainless is harder to work with. Stainless is harder to cut, costs more money, harder to weld/braze generally, and getting everything right is more critical with this medium. It's a great material when used properly.
Is Vari-Wall still in business? No email responses, phone goes to voice mail that is now full and their Facebook hasn't had postings since 2017. They claimed they hoped to take up some True Temper's lost business.
Depends on use case and the particulars I think. The argument for straight gauge is that there is more material, but the argument for butts is that it puts the material where you really want it and concentrates the stresses away from the welds. I would say butted is the best way to make a frame strong given that you get all the wall thicknesses right. I’m not an engineer tho.
llets say i got ay schwinn 26 inch im not happy with the back i got ay 3 inch tire in it fender too close to seat post leg tew long im dewing the front in ah continentle to cool
im lookin for people that dig custom bike parts hows your bins i got gas money i got no bike junkyards yet dew u dig bike junk im on the talend of ay electric rat bike i built it on my used hospitlebed of pain springs polkin im ok now i got my bed back
foot note son lose the wallbord its bad dad in the summertimeson kids will b ok stilltew come i like your class back ground nice n neay always clean up after the day is done ah clean tool is ay happy hand yo night or day or day n nitesin the heay hey
Awesome. Stoked you're doing these vids!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I’ve never done this before and I want to do a custom bike with my kid, so your explanations are perfect for regular people that are not bike experts!! Thanks again!!
Man you're well educated in that subject I'm overwhelmed yet feeling more informed I'll never do what you do but it sure was interesting to find out someone who is so informed about this stuff I'm sure you're very talented peace brother.
Thank you for this video. It has helped me grasp a lot more of the frame-building world. I am a metal fabricator and have been wanting to get into bike building as well. Well done!
Bravo! I had no idea what " butted" meant! Thanks for sharing.
"Double butted" means that it tapers down at one end, then tapers up at the other end.
Fuji used to offer "Quad butted" Valite tubing but its simpler just to butt once down to the smallest wall thickness.
Seat tubes are often "Single Butted" because the clamped seatpost forms the butting at the top of the tube.
Brother i am form Bangladesh ❤ your activities
Thanks for all the links in the description.
I'm sure it's not totally comprehensive, but it's a start!
I could listen to you explain this shit all day man.
Great video. You can also get a rough idea of butt length and location of the change in wall thickness by looking through the tube at a light source and seeing where the reflection angle changes.
I thought about including that in the video. Sometimes that method works fine enough, but I haven't always found it to be that easy to get great measurements. It's definitely a good tool to have in the toolkit though.
Once again, really enjoying these videos. Invaluable info. Please keep it up.
I'm glad to hear it. I've got lots of videos coming.
Yo this new series is dope. I’d like to make a request tho. Can you talk about bike geometry or how one can learn more about it? Cuz it’s real hard to weed out the inaccurate stuff about it on the internet. ✌🏽
Thanks man! Do you know of any videos about HOW tubing is butted at the tube factory?
It used to be on the Reynolds website (reynolds.co.uk). Basically they stick a mandrel (steel bar with a ball at the end) inside the tube and turn the tube to almost "rolling-pin" it thinner (squishing between the ball and a die) in the middle, as the length of the tube expands.
Sir, thank you for this wonderful video.. what supplier where can get this tubes wd better affordable price? Salamat po..
Amazing presentation
Great information for new builders like me
Thanks so much for this extraordinary video! I learned such a lot about the tubes, their body, the things that you have be aware of, and and and. You reminded me that a tube is for example not necessarily having the same thickness, how to find out where the thicer end might be. Any questions open for me as a non professional man, screwing on old bikes. Thanks again and many greetings from Germany 🇩🇪👍✌️🌞🍀💪
I wrecked a swedging machine when I was a young guy. It's great big hydraulic ram. Inner or outer is either a tube or a bullet. It grabs the tube in a big one way hydraulic chuck and crames it in to or over the dye. Lots and lots of power.... and a kicker to get the tube-inner dye off the tube. If you don't back the kicker off and switch to a bullet dye. The machine jams and 300 tons per square inch blows the front of the ram off... Granted this machine was for down hole pipe up to 24".
this channel is amazing
That fork start as thin as the tapered end. Than, it they put it in a mold and push pressured fluid into it to form it into shape. Hence it is called hydro-formed.
hello, what is a brand of pre cut tubs to use in a mountain bike?
which brand gives the best options for dowhill
Thanks that was cool. I have a question i have a Jamie S2 631 Reynolds steel, I’m looking a getting a touring bike built with Tange 2 tubing I was wondering if you hand any idea how those 2 stacked up. Thanks for your time
Hello
Your videos are amazing thanks for the good value.
You have any idea what is the tool needed to shape an alluminum tube with a smaller diameter on one side leading to a bigger diameter on the other?
Any good recommendations on affordable tubing and sources for rack and/or trailer building? I'd love to source some 10mm but don't know the most economical places to order from or what sort of dimensions would be recommended.
Great video, can you help me understand what size head tube I’d need if I were using a 1-1/8” steering tube with a thread less headset? I’m not sure what inside diameter tube I’ll need. Thanks, Al ps check out the batmobile I built
Thank you...l have learned so much from your videos 👍👍👍
Great content thanks for all the info😊👍
No prob, Bob!
I would like to have a frame built from Reynolds tubing for a combo touring-gravel-commuter all rounder bicycle. For overall STRENGTH-FLEXIBILITY and the LIGHTEST weight, is Reynolds 631 or 525 appropriate?
It is a huge difference between the various demands of touring, commuting, sport or club riding. A loaded touring bike should have as a general rule more tire clearances, longer chain stays, powerful brakes, lots of braze ons for all the racks, lights and extra water bottles. The head tube about 72 degrees and trail of at least 1 3/4 inches. Oversized down tube for stiffness. Great bike for loaded touring but a slug for commuting. Save your money and buy several bikes to meet your specific needs....
@@kirstenspencer3630 Why several? Makes more sense to equip ONE good overall TOURING bike.
Is Reynold's tubing superior, inferior or the same as Columbus?
@@jakobw135 Reynolds tubing uses MANGANESE which adds toughness and superior fatigue resistance. The tubing actually gets stronger with use. Columbus uses Chromium and Molybdenum to add strength and toughness. Other manufactures of bicycle specific tubing are excellent choises as well. Ishowata tubing is triple vacuum melted a costly proceedure to remove non metalic inclusions. Drawing process and being drawn over a mandrel in creates a refined grain in the metal. The diameter of the tubing and wall thickness has a huge influence in the feel of the frame. A classic race road bike has entirely different construction and geometry than a loaded touring frame. Specialized sold a loaded touring bike in the late 1980's that predates the rockhoppers that can be found and can be a " turn key " solution. Budget friendly. Each use is mutualy exclusive and while possible to use a single bike for all purpose highly not recommended. Have you ever experienced a " speed wobble " ?
Super informative thank you! Are there any considerations for tubing diameter and thickness for a first lugged frame building project? Where aesthetics and frame performance is not so important as an easier build. Also for butted tubing, do you have any thoughts on the minimum length of the butt that needs to remain at either end after cutting to size? I'll be taking a fair amount off so wonder if straight gauge is more suitable.
Hey. Regarding your MTB frame build... why dont you let your downtube straight and ad a bumpstop to it to resist the forkcrown. Gives you the added benefit of not chrashing the cocpit into the toptube. Alsow its said a straight downtube makes for a stiffer headtube area.
There can be some issues that arise from such an arrangement: 1. The headtube could shear off in a crash. If the fork crown clears the DT without interference then this isn't a worry. 2. Finding a knock block to mitigate that fork crown impact to the DT can be difficult- what material works best? How do you attach it to the frame? 3. A DT fork crown stopper limits steering angle, which for someone who rides with a trials style over some trail features can find this really annoying.
@@bradcomis1066 A big part of the trek mtb family is is doing it that way (not negating what you said). The bump stop has to be some kind of hard rubber (soft plastic). Maybe you can buy a bumpstop from a specialized epic hardtail. And the steering angle shouldn't be a problem... I'm riding around for years with canyon mtb's which have a similar kind of TT protection called IPU (impact protection unit) no problems even on the steepest of hair turns.
Is their real big differance between Reynolds 631 and 4130 Taiwan tubing?
That's not something I know a ton about, but there would be a difference.
Nice video bro.. Loves from Bangladesh
You had me at "butts.'
Are "stainless steel tubes" different somehow from "steel tubes" when it comes to welding/brazing etc... which are better? I just wander, because if i use stainless steel tubes, i can polish them and leave some parts of the frame unpainted .. is that make any sense ?(sorry about my english).
Stainless is harder to work with. Stainless is harder to cut, costs more money, harder to weld/braze generally, and getting everything right is more critical with this medium. It's a great material when used properly.
Great video. Learned alot. What are some european tube suppliera that you would recommend?
What country do you live in??
I buy my 4130 tubes from ME-RACING in Borlänge. Sweden.
@@the_Jaakkonen thanks. I'll look in to it.
Columbus tubing?
I don't really understand what the point of butting is in brazed bikes
I want to build a trike ,loading capacity of about 240 kg. Which tubes are the best ?
I really don’t know about that one!
Heavy toobs probably!
Is Vari-Wall still in business? No email responses, phone goes to voice mail that is now full and their Facebook hasn't had postings since 2017. They claimed they hoped to take up some True Temper's lost business.
Bro What is more stronger straight gauge or butted?
Depends on use case and the particulars I think. The argument for straight gauge is that there is more material, but the argument for butts is that it puts the material where you really want it and concentrates the stresses away from the welds. I would say butted is the best way to make a frame strong given that you get all the wall thicknesses right. I’m not an engineer tho.
@@cobraframebuilding thanks a lot
Do the FEA on bike frame and where stress is high add thk
yeah, butt checker and rimmer... world of fun 😁
any of these sellers are from EU? i know jsut columbus from EU and they are really unresponsive
llets say i got ay schwinn 26 inch im not happy with the back i got ay 3 inch tire in it fender too close to seat post leg tew long im dewing the front in ah continentle to cool
Hello. I’m sorry, i don’t speak English. But, can you identify some European suppliers if it’s possible please.
Ceeway
You talk just like RJ the bike guy. Are you guys related ?
this ever get u
Hydroforming
Rad.
im lookin for people that dig custom bike parts hows your bins i got gas money i got no bike junkyards yet dew u dig bike junk im on the talend of ay electric rat bike i built it on my used hospitlebed of pain springs polkin im ok now i got my bed back
Not enough butt jokes. Unsubscribe.
I deserve that. I will try to re-earn your sub in future butt-joke-intensive vids :)
foot note son lose the wallbord its bad dad in the summertimeson kids will b ok stilltew come
i like your class back ground nice n neay always clean up after the day is done ah clean tool is ay happy hand yo
night or day
or day n nitesin the heay hey
Too much time telling us all the things you don't know. Leave that out and focus on conveying what you do know.
I gotta say I disagree