This guy is as articulate as he is concise and precise. 100% info, no filler and no folksy/dorky/stupid B.S. jabber and/or verbal mannerisms. Extremely succinct, coherent and clear! Very bright guy! Very informative! Very enjoyable dissertation from an excellent teacher and communicator!
Hello, thanks for the informative video. I'm retired now and want to build an old school chopper bicycle. These videos really help. Gonna start with a fixture or jig first. Thanks again.
Thanks for the explanation, I can see the fabrication benefits for the builder. Are there any profound / noticeable benefits for the end user between slotted/hooded etc.,? I know that All-City made a big to do about the dropout for the Space Horse, but was that mostly aesthetics? What's the value prop to the end user?
For the end user there is maybe less difference. Keep an eye out for replaceable derailleur hangers which are generally only good. And with forks with qr skewers I think the hoods often get in the way. Drew @engincycles hates QR from a mechanic’s perspective and goes way out of his way to avoid them on his bikes. If you have track dropouts with hoods sometimes the hoods get in the way of a 15mm wrench for axle nuts and you’d have to use a socket. That’s what I have off the top of my head.
I have an old Ritchey P23 with forged tab-style dropouts. The drive-side has opened up from 1 cm (original) to 1.4 cm. Is it gonna break if I try to cold set it closed a bit? Ritchey dropout, Tange Prestige stays.
Hi, can you show the proper process weld vertical drop out to a horizontal drop out frame? And allignment to make sure that the body is balance when u install the wheel?
Loved the video. Makes me want to build a frame. Question: any advice on adjusting the limiting screws that come through the dropouts like on a Surly Cross check? They are obviously for making sure the wheel is aligned, but do you have any tips for how to make sure the right and left are both tightened exactly the same?
Hi, the Giant Faith 0 has two drop outs, RC443 and RC445, both for adjusting head angle. I wanted to put a 27.5x2.5 tire in my faith and both dropouts just don't cut it. Max i can fit is a 27.5x2.3 small profile tire. Is it possible to make a dropout that will give enough clearance to fit that tire? Thank you.
Video, strong performance B+! Q1: I have a BF 7 speed 20 inch wheelset bike and I want to convert into coaster brake but... it does have vertical dropouts, is it possible? Q2: If I go from 20 inch (406) to 16 inch (349) with out coaster brake, my caliper brakes missing anchors on both fork and chain stay what shell I do? (no answer not acceptable or "go chastise and repent" not acceptable)
I have a Klein Mantra with a triangulated swingarm suspension made from tapered aluminum tubing. Made in 1997, it has v-brakes. I'd like to upgrade to disk brakes, but I'm skeptical about having someone try to weld a caliper mount onto it (possibly messing it up) and charging me a small fortune. Does anyone have any insight on this versus the bolt-on carriers I see on eBay?
Klein’s are normalized. If you don’t have the jigs, and the oven, then leave it alone. Disc brakes are not always an upgrade. In the long run you won’t notice the difference.
is it possible to build an bolt onadapter or something to put the rear wheel 1/4 inch behind the actual dropou? I want my brompton to use slighly bigger wheels.
Depending on the style of dropout it could be easy or difficult but you could make an adapter piece from steel that bolts on to the original dropout, with it's own alot further back/higher/closer but obviously it would need to clear any part of the original frame so it could operate freely. If you ride electric bikes there's a company that makes bolt on dropouts that go on the super73 s2 in order to put the wheel something like an inch or so further back. Mind you will need to use strong enough material to take the stress it would go under daily. A small CNC shop could easily make you some but you may need to bring at least a mock up if not an actual final example of the wanted product that is either 3d printed or made from some other process. Short answer yes it's absolutely possible. I like the longer wheel base look myself for a more aggressive look. But it will sacrifice mobility and manueverability for more stability at higher speeds.
Greetings... nice video. I have a vintage handmade GIANT carbon fiber road bike with plug dropouts. I hit a huge bump and the plug are loose from the barrels. Is it possible to DIY this repair or am I screwed.
I don't know much at all about carbon repairs. I wouldn't attempt it unless you know what you're doing. I don't know what resources to suggest for DIY learning and repairs.
Very impressive young man. A cogent,informative,and articulate presentation. I will subscribe now. In what state is your shop located? I am picking up soon, a mint vintage TREK 4900. I realize TIG welding Aluminum is more problematic than Cro-Moly, but how would you reinforce the dropouts for a low watt(250-350 watt) Hub motor? Any creative suggestions? JB Weld Putty? lol Happy Thanksgiving Joe,phil
Hi, thanks for the video! I'd love to know if the hooded dropouts at 2:00 are only to weld on or if brazing them on is a strong enough bond. Thanks dude
Hi great info I got 150mm hub but my Steel rear dropout is 177mm is it OK to just put the axle in dropout and tighten the nut to the end so it hold the hub firmly or is best to add bigger freewheel to make the hub larger advice pls
Hey buddy thanks for the video you really know your stuff had a question if you don't mind... my axle fits into the drop out but it's not deep enough it sticks out a tiny bit and the bolt it too tall to slide into the groove.... Is it safe to make the dropout deeper with a Dremel or something untill I can fit the bolt on? Or would that risk the frame snapping randomly during any ride? Thanks hope to hear from you cheers man.
I Really enjoyed this video. Thanks. Just wondering if you have a source for weld on hydraulic brake mounts. I'm looking to update and paint my old Bianchi Peregrine and give it new life. Unfortunately, I cannot add suspension, as the head tube is only 1", darn. Just want to get some disc brakes on it and turn it into kind of a cyclo/commuter. Any Ideas?
If you don’t have the jigs, tools, and instruction, then DON’T align your frame. Take it to someone who has all the proper tools and has aligned a lot of frames. Someone decided to “align” my old 1974 Paramount. “Bend until it fits” does not work! Now my bike has to go in the jigs, and return the drop-out spacing to factory specs. Only steel frames can be aligned. Titanium stretches, CF breaks, aluminum gets stress-risers. When I built an aluminum frame it had to be spot-on perfect. There is no such thing as going back and doing a slight alignment. That frame was 6061, the tolerance for bending is even less with 7000 series.
for some reason i always found the flat drop outs more confusing than the hooded ones. I’ve only built a handful of bikes with hooded dropouts.. alignment seems to be fine.. But I’ll soon be using thru-axle on my next builds, so.. we’ll see
That is a very deep question. What frame material? What hub standard? Modern cutting edge tech, or something more classic? Single speed or geared? Producing by the thousands or one off? There are so many variables. Paragon Machine Works has a lot of good choices for starters.
Those Paragon Polydrops. Have you ever heard of those aluminum threads getting deformed or loose or jiggly or creaky? They confound me. My inner engineer is going crazy about big impulse bump-loads going into just a few threads of soft-metal aluminum. Surely they get deformed quickly. But I haven’t heard of this actually happening.
This guy is as articulate as he is concise and precise. 100% info, no filler and no folksy/dorky/stupid B.S. jabber and/or verbal mannerisms. Extremely succinct, coherent and clear! Very bright guy! Very informative! Very enjoyable dissertation from an excellent teacher and communicator!
That was one of the most coherent, well done videos I've seen. You know your stuff and you explain very well.
Hello, thanks for the informative video. I'm retired now and want to build an old school chopper bicycle. These videos really help. Gonna start with a fixture or jig first. Thanks again.
Thanks for the explanation, I can see the fabrication benefits for the builder. Are there any profound / noticeable benefits for the end user between slotted/hooded etc.,? I know that All-City made a big to do about the dropout for the Space Horse, but was that mostly aesthetics? What's the value prop to the end user?
For the end user there is maybe less difference. Keep an eye out for replaceable derailleur hangers which are generally only good. And with forks with qr skewers I think the hoods often get in the way. Drew @engincycles hates QR from a mechanic’s perspective and goes way out of his way to avoid them on his bikes. If you have track dropouts with hoods sometimes the hoods get in the way of a 15mm wrench for axle nuts and you’d have to use a socket. That’s what I have off the top of my head.
You totally answered my question about hooded dropouts! Thank you!
Thank you for this video! How do I figure out the degree angle of the chain and seat stay to order the correct dropouts... thank you!
I’m looking for drop outs I can fit to a kayak cart I am building with 5/8 inch accelerator bolts.
I have an old Ritchey P23 with forged tab-style dropouts. The drive-side has opened up from 1 cm (original) to 1.4 cm. Is it gonna break if I try to cold set it closed a bit? Ritchey dropout, Tange Prestige stays.
Hi, can you show the proper process weld vertical drop out to a horizontal drop out frame? And allignment to make sure that the body is balance when u install the wheel?
Do they still make the classic campagnolo drop outs?
helpfull , btw what causing drop out broken ? thanks
is dropout matter when skidding? and if it is what droput is better?
Is it possible to install quick release axle on a horizontal droupout?
My question also as I was told recently it's a no go yet I'm sure I've seen many bikes with exactly that intact that is how my vintage bike is now
@@stevejeffries1603 thanks what bike do you have?
Any video on filing technique/tips on the socket dropouts?
Hi
I have a vintage bicycle it has horizontal drop outs and a quick release wheel.
Is that correct
Loved the video. Makes me want to build a frame. Question: any advice on adjusting the limiting screws that come through the dropouts like on a Surly Cross check? They are obviously for making sure the wheel is aligned, but do you have any tips for how to make sure the right and left are both tightened exactly the same?
Hi, the Giant Faith 0 has two drop outs, RC443 and RC445, both for adjusting head angle. I wanted to put a 27.5x2.5 tire in my faith and both dropouts just don't cut it. Max i can fit is a 27.5x2.3 small profile tire. Is it possible to make a dropout that will give enough clearance to fit that tire? Thank you.
Video, strong performance B+!
Q1: I have a BF 7 speed 20 inch wheelset bike and I want to convert into coaster brake but... it does have vertical dropouts, is it possible?
Q2: If I go from 20 inch (406) to 16 inch (349) with out coaster brake, my caliper brakes missing anchors on both fork and chain stay what shell I do?
(no answer not acceptable or "go chastise and repent" not acceptable)
What does the 135 mm or 150 mm number mean?
I don't quite understand the use of the hooded type, as well as the one that cinches together. Could you explain the benefits of these?
I have a Klein Mantra with a triangulated swingarm suspension made from tapered aluminum tubing. Made in 1997, it has v-brakes. I'd like to upgrade to disk brakes, but I'm skeptical about having someone try to weld a caliper mount onto it (possibly messing it up) and charging me a small fortune. Does anyone have any insight on this versus the bolt-on carriers I see on eBay?
Klein’s are normalized. If you don’t have the jigs, and the oven, then leave it alone. Disc brakes are not always an upgrade. In the long run you won’t notice the difference.
is it possible to build an bolt onadapter or something to put the rear wheel 1/4 inch behind the actual dropou? I want my brompton to use slighly bigger wheels.
Depending on the style of dropout it could be easy or difficult but you could make an adapter piece from steel that bolts on to the original dropout, with it's own alot further back/higher/closer but obviously it would need to clear any part of the original frame so it could operate freely. If you ride electric bikes there's a company that makes bolt on dropouts that go on the super73 s2 in order to put the wheel something like an inch or so further back. Mind you will need to use strong enough material to take the stress it would go under daily. A small CNC shop could easily make you some but you may need to bring at least a mock up if not an actual final example of the wanted product that is either 3d printed or made from some other process. Short answer yes it's absolutely possible.
I like the longer wheel base look myself for a more aggressive look. But it will sacrifice mobility and manueverability for more stability at higher speeds.
Thanks for making these videos! Could you make one for bottom brackets and head tubes? Thanks!!
Good suggestion! I would need to do some research for that because I mostly build with the same couple HT and BB standards.
Greetings... nice video. I have a vintage handmade GIANT carbon fiber road bike with plug dropouts. I hit a huge bump and the plug are loose from the barrels. Is it possible to DIY this repair or am I screwed.
I don't know much at all about carbon repairs. I wouldn't attempt it unless you know what you're doing. I don't know what resources to suggest for DIY learning and repairs.
Very impressive young man. A cogent,informative,and articulate presentation. I will subscribe now. In what state is your shop located? I am picking up soon, a mint vintage TREK 4900. I realize TIG welding Aluminum is more problematic than Cro-Moly, but how would you reinforce the dropouts for a low watt(250-350 watt) Hub motor? Any creative suggestions? JB Weld Putty? lol Happy Thanksgiving Joe,phil
i have a 1500w ebike no rewnforcement at all 250 wats will be fine
@@epicskidude3129 Thx brother.Safe & happiness on the slopes😄🍀👍🇺🇲
Hi, thanks for the video! I'd love to know if the hooded dropouts at 2:00 are only to weld on or if brazing them on is a strong enough bond. Thanks dude
What is the little screw in the drop out. On each side?
Micro-adjusters
Hi great info I got 150mm hub but my Steel rear dropout is 177mm is it OK to just put the axle in dropout and tighten the nut to the end so it hold the hub firmly or is best to add bigger freewheel to make the hub larger advice pls
Hey buddy thanks for the video you really know your stuff had a question if you don't mind... my axle fits into the drop out but it's not deep enough it sticks out a tiny bit and the bolt it too tall to slide into the groove.... Is it safe to make the dropout deeper with a Dremel or something untill I can fit the bolt on? Or would that risk the frame snapping randomly during any ride? Thanks hope to hear from you cheers man.
What size axle I need with a 150mm dropouts?
Track Dropouts?
I Really enjoyed this video. Thanks. Just wondering if you have a source for weld on hydraulic brake mounts. I'm looking to update and paint my old Bianchi Peregrine and give it new life. Unfortunately, I cannot add suspension, as the head tube is only 1", darn. Just want to get some disc brakes on it and turn it into kind of a cyclo/commuter. Any Ideas?
Paragon machine works.
I have a MTB with 135mm QR dropout. Do you know how to adjust the triangle if I replace it with the 148mm TA dropouts ?
If you don’t have the jigs, tools, and instruction, then DON’T align your frame. Take it to someone who has all the proper tools and has aligned a lot of frames. Someone decided to “align” my old 1974 Paramount. “Bend until it fits” does not work! Now my bike has to go in the jigs, and return the drop-out spacing to factory specs. Only steel frames can be aligned. Titanium stretches, CF breaks, aluminum gets stress-risers. When I built an aluminum frame it had to be spot-on perfect. There is no such thing as going back and doing a slight alignment. That frame was 6061, the tolerance for bending is even less with 7000 series.
Hold on! Did you just say that you can (gas torch) fillet braze onto 17/4 stainless steel (the Paragon piece)? What sorcery is this?
You definitely can, but you have to use the right filler. Call up the fine folks at cycle design and they’ll steer you in the right direction.
@@cobraframebuilding Hot dog thank you. Contact Cycle Design for rod/flux recommendation for 17/4 stainless
for some reason i always found the flat drop outs more confusing than the hooded ones. I’ve only built a handful of bikes with hooded dropouts.. alignment seems to be fine.. But I’ll soon be using thru-axle on my next builds, so.. we’ll see
Flat dropouts are a pain, too. I think in terms of keeping the rear aligned they can be easier though.
thanks for this bro
What is the best dropout for an mtb?
That is a very deep question. What frame material? What hub standard? Modern cutting edge tech, or something more classic? Single speed or geared? Producing by the thousands or one off? There are so many variables. Paragon Machine Works has a lot of good choices for starters.
Those Paragon Polydrops. Have you ever heard of those aluminum threads getting deformed or loose or jiggly or creaky?
They confound me. My inner engineer is going crazy about big impulse bump-loads going into just a few threads of soft-metal aluminum. Surely they get deformed quickly. But I haven’t heard of this actually happening.
you didn't even discuss closed dropouts