Wow, a lot learned on this video. Your still the BEST hands down. Thanks for putting so much effort into training thousands. NO ONE teaches like you! You are truly blessed!
Someone below suggested disconnecting the negative battery cable for half an hour and the EGR valve would reset to zero. I have just done that, and it works! Whether it will remain properly reset or revert to a P1404 problem remains to be seen. But for the time being: kudos!
Live and learn. Working on high end Germans I have to do the battery trick 3-4 times a week for anti-pinch windows, audio systems, climate controls you name it. Removing both bat. terminals and shorting them for a minute to drain ecu capacitance brings thing back to its senses 90% of the time. Man, Your attention to details and love for the subject is unparalleled. Thanks again!
that is cool man. let me know how it goes and thanks for the encouragement. I did a lot of theory on this one. I know some don't care for it but a lot of you do, so good to here that you liked it.
Great and important video. I just ran into this in a 2009 Town & Country. I replaced the EGR due to code P0404 and then P1404 code popped up. I went in and checked all of the values and saw similar data. Disconnected the battery and problem solved.
Aside from disconnecting the battery to erase computer memory and reset a new learned value, I agree that cycling the key should have done the trick but, there is the possibility the PCM may have to be reprogrammed to address this concern. A lot of cars today are fixed with reprogramming to address a calibration process. Many times hours could be spent trying to fix the unfix-able when all it needed was a reprogram. All-in-all a great video for those still learning the trade. Job well done!
quick comment to those of you still following this. It has been a few weeks now and there is still no check engine light or returning trouble code for this EGR. I just felt it was important to update you in light of the TSB on the reflash of the PCM for this problem. Not saying the reflash doesn't need done, just saying that the resetting of the min. position was the fix. I am sure the reflash causes the PCM to do this on every key cycle instead of battery disconnect
@@lauritsstergaard7798 that would be addressed by simply clearing the fault, and that was not the case. Great thinking though, it is that thought process that is needed sometimes
@@ScannerDanner but then what i dont get is how it would figure out if if the sensor is seated properly or the egr is held open by soot? I Mean if it reset by every key cycle. I know it would look at maf or map at start up.
Wow Thanks a ton for the video, my Chevy Impala 2001 got the same problem and I got error codes P1404 and 1404 P (don't know this one). I cleaned the carbon residues with carb removing solvents and got the code again after a few drive cycles. I checked the EGR solenoid resistance (9 ohm, so okay) and my circuit voltages tests were positive as well. Just disconnected the batteries and will reconnect again and hopefully it will fix the problem, Will update in this thread :) P.S.: I ordered a new EGR valve but will return it now since that's apparently not the fix for this problem. Thanks again for this detailed video. Excellent work!!!
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS! Hi, I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there. NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it. It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours. I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not. NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4. To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving. No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission. I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be. I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried. I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing. Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing! I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often. To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them. I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD. I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground. I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry. I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure. Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor. I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all. Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back. Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go. Behold, the truck runs great with no problems. Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem. I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve. This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it. The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire. I removed the EGR valve again to double check it. The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor. Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test. About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value. Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect. Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve. Valve closed= 4.9k Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall. Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in.. Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss. Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved. Truck runs like new. I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced. I Got no codes for bad EGR The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4 Sorry so long, hope it can help TayloredSteam
+Scott Taylor (TayloredSteam) Awesome post! Takes a while to read, but will check out the MAP sensor...and maybe just change the EGR valve and be done with it. I can tell you my mechanic said it's not an issue to lose sleep over. Maybe down the road this could be a problem, but you can safely drive with the problem for a long, long time.
This reminds me of some Ford models when you replace the oxygen sensors and dont reset the KAM and the O2s monitors wont complete with no pending codes preventing it from passing smog test. Also great video, i always thought the duty cycle percentage should match the valve position percentage and if not thought part was not functioning properly 👍🏽
I'm sure it's just haters and trolls. Anyone who came here to learn wouldn't have been disappointed. Personally I've learned alot on this channel, not just about cars but about electrical systems in general. Thanks from a fellow Pennsylvanian.
You just made my day man... I've had the same issue with my 2000 S10 4.3 with a P1404. Replaced the EGR and same code every time after 4 drive cycles. I was beginning to suspect either a PCM issue or a short somewhere. Gonna see if this works
ScannerDanner Well man come to find out... I pulled the pos & neg cables last night, touched em together to clear the kam, and left them disconnected all night. Next morning after hooking em back up the truck fired right up (unusual because I've been experiencing a cold-start flooding issue the last month or so). I've checked the egr wiring as far as voltages. I have 12v, 5v ref, pintle signal, and the only one in question is my ground. I did read on GM tsb online that the only way to correct this issue is with an pcm update... I've even checked the egr orifices- started it up and blown em out, new egr, etc. Same code still every time I clear it with my Autel... Any thoughts? Would you be able to somehow send me the egr circuit diagram and pcm pinouts for the egr circuit. Gonna dig a little deeper and see if there's any shorts, bad connections, etc. Seems that most GM vehicles with the 4.3 are experiencing the P1404 problem from what I've read online. Thanks in advance
Nice one. I especially like these videos because they're obviously not rehearsed. We get to witness the head scratching too. An alternative to the detour between screens etc. around 19 to 20 minutes, would have been to just point out the approximate 8 millisecond period between a rising edge and a rising edge, then divide this 8 milliseconds into 1000 milliseconds, hence the approximate 125 Hz frequency. Thanks for posting these videos. They really do make this stuff so understandable.
I like how an unexpected inconvenience, of the battery dying, showed the true fix. I was just thinking, on the way home, when I got a P1404 code suddenly. I don't want to keep replacing things, and it still not being the fix. Because that has happened.
Great question! You think like me. I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking of playing around with this. Like maybe jamming a piece of paper in the pintle (temporarily) and then disconnecting the battery and see if I could get the PCM to zero the position. My guess is there is an allowable range for the self zero and it is not the full range of the sensor. As for the scenario you mentioned, a stuck open EGR will give a rough idle and negative fuel trim numbers...
I'd already installed a New EGR valve, continued to get P1404 Then I watched this video and: Disconnected the negative wire from the battery for an hour Because I was busy, not because I thought I needed to wait an hour AFTER an hour Reconnected the negative wire to the battery Started the car Success This fixed a P1404 on a 01 Chevy Impala 3.8 that was still giving P1404 after installing a new EGR valve The following is just some speculation: I never cleaned my throttle body so I have no idea if it's clogged or clean. I advise you to check out his other video on cleaning the throttle body because it's an awesome video and because I believe that the resetting of the computer (disconnecting the negative from the battery for half an hour) is simply resetting the computer/EGR to work with the throttle body that is [in my case] probably still gunked up. Unplugging the battery fixed my problem; it got rid of the P1404 code. But I as soon as I have time I will clean the throttle body and unplug the battery again (to re reset the computer with the clean throttle body) I'll update this comment if the throttle body was gunked up. If you have any information or thoughts on my speculation, please reply to my comment because I'd like to know if I'm right or wrong in my understanding of the reset
It has nothing to do with the throttle body. The old EGR position sensor had a learned closed valve voltage reading that differs from the new one. On newer models, the closed EGR position is a learned value on every key cycle. On your car it is also a learned value but it gets written into a keep alive memory and is ONLY reset or relearns on battery disconnect. Make sense?
@@ScannerDanner I still have the same question... The learned voltage; it doesn't have anything to do with the throughput/passageway inside the throttle body? For example, does the EGR valve change it's voltage/position based on the size of the opening inside the passageway in the throttle body (that passageway you showed in the other video where it was completely black and looked almost sealed off) And thank you for the insanely fast reply
Nope, just simply closed valve (EGR pintle) position. It allows for manufacturer tolerances. With plugged passages you will get flow codes which are based on psi changes from the MAP sensor. You will NOT get position error codes from plugged passages.
@@ScannerDanner AWESOME, thank you for explaining that! I'm extremely grateful that you replied so fast and directly addressed my misunderstanding. I now have a better understanding of EGR thanks to you! Thank you times a million!! Have a great rest of your day!!👍
Nothing wrong with the video . It's a real life situation , your get so involved with the fix that you forget the battery will go flat . If that had happened to me , I would have replaced or re charge battery only to find the car was fixed and wouldn't no why . Thanks to your real life situation I now now . Brill video , just keep em coming . Gary uk .
Very nice Mr. Danner. Had same code, same fix on a 01 grand am tuesday of this week. I actually unhooked battery to remove upper intake for oil pump drive o-ring replacement and when battery was reconnected egr data was normal so called it a fix now its just a little more clear as to why;-p
ah good question my friend. the key would be to measure both wires with the solenoid energized and de-energized. at this point conventional voltmeter ID can be done as described in Section 3 of my eBook. De-energized,12&12=ground side switched De-energized,0&0=power side switched. Then energize the solenoid and see which wire changes. This is your control wire. Oh and experience is key here too :-) Every single one of these solenoids with this design, I have found to be power side switched.
Just did one of these on a 3800 in a 2001 Buick Regal. New EGR valve but still set code P1404 again. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes finally relearned closed position as 0 percent. Relearned that 0.75 volts was minimum EGR position
That is a great question. Never noticed until now. I am not sure, maybe my ground connection on my scope was bad? It doesn't change anything from what we were doing , but it is a great question
no, EGR gas will displace oxygen in the cylinder. less oxygen with the same pulse width command = richer than normal ratio and negative fuel trim numbers. thanks for the positive feedback!
I was told after you install the EGR valve do not plug it in go in to the car put on your scanner then reset the codes or erase them then turn the key off then go out and plug the connection back into the EGR valve. They say this resets the codes
On these older systems a battery disconnect is what is needed to reset the 0% closed valve position after you change the valve. Newer cars reset this 0 count on every key cycle.
i like scannerdanner videos and have learned some new stuff myself, but i have a lot of experience in the field also. not taking anything away from Dan, but in this case he stumbled on the solution by accident. it happens to the best of us even me. from my 25 plus years of experience i knew the problem before he was even finished with the video and was wondering why he was going to tell the customer to get a knew part after 4 used parts, but i couldn't tell him. actually it was a simple fix
Love your videos! I am an automotive instructor at a college in Texas. Your videos are awesome in the classroom before going into the lab. Would be an honor to work with you.
+ScannerDanner Just keep doing what you do. I am working with the Picoscope and the WPX500 pressure. This is all new stuff for the college. I am trying to get them up to speed with the latest diagnostic solutions. You are my go to guy! If you make it to Lubbock, Tx, I would love to visit.
good question, no need for reverse polarity with a solenoid like this one. I believe the purpose for both solenoid wires going to the PCM in this redesign by GM is for better circuit monitoring. but I'm not 100% sure. I am positive that it is not a reverse polarity design though
My first generation Verus times out after 30 seconds and locks control out for 60 seconds, so you better act fast. I guess that's some kind of safety feature they put in the12.2 version, I don't know haven't had mine but about a month. Just got it back from a level 5 repair, that's what happens when you buy used i guess, Great Vid as always.
Mr. Scannerdanner I need your help. I am getting the same code for my 1997 GMC K 1500 5.7 Vortec. Before I bought the truck the gentleman before replaced the valve twice because of this code. After watching this video I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes then I hooked it back up. The code came back on after a week. So I went ahead and took the valve off cleaned it really good like you demonstrated in the video. I went ahead and disconnected the negative battery cable again and then I hooked it back up. The same code came back on. I went ahead and bought a Delphi EGR valve brand new. I threw that baby on and the code never came back on....... until Friday. The same code is back and this time when I clear it it immediately comes back on. I have no idea what it could be. I'm going to take the valve off and clean it and disconnect the battery but I can't imagine after a month the valve would already need to be cleaned again. Or that it would already throw a code. My OBD2 scanner tells me the EGR system is complete. How could it be complete if the valve is not closing all the way? So I guess my question is how do I fix this and if I can't fix it due to some crazy unexplained reason. My truck should still pass emissions because the valve is still opening it's just not closing all the way.?
I've seen some crazy stuff on these. One guy changed his fuel pump and reversed the sending unit wire ground (for the float) and the pump ground which backfed the entire computer system ground with too much amperage, elevating the sensor ground voltage. We can check for this easily. Also, I need to know what the EVP voltage is with the key on and then again with it running at idle. Let's start there okay?
ScannerDanner my evp with the key on is .82 volts. The reading I was getting before I took it off and cleaned it was 1.085 volts, disconnected my battery and I placed it back on and now my reading is .82 volts. With the vehicle idling my EVP voltage is 1.82..... could my EGR valve possibly be backwards? Or do those readings seem normal
ScannerDanner so today I was looking at my emissions readiness on my OBD2 scanner and when my egr system completed. My check engine light would kick on. NOT TODAY :) the good cleaning I didn't think did anything, worked. I find it kind of a pain that these egr valve have this problem. Especially these type of EGR valves. Anyways thanks for your help. I really enjoy watching all your videos. Keep up the good work
ScannerDanner well, I spoke way too soon. My check engine light came back on..same code. Mr danner I guess if you could tell me what you think of the numbers I told regarding my EVPs. Thanks again for your reply.
in first place a big thank you for your educational work, you really have the gift of teaching. In second place a question:The open EGR will cause a lean condition, hence the fuel trim numbers should go positive, shouldn't they?
it was clear to me... thanks again, ive used it already as well, honestly i would always use another scan tool to run the function test but much easier this way.
I wish my teacher was like you... the way my teacher teachers is very poor.... just gives us a worksheet and tells us to go figure it out and have no idea what we r doing lol...
Can we get any information about the diagnostic tools you're using (including the clip style multimeter)? I love the info on troubleshooting but it's not helpful if there's no way for me to get any of the data. I typed your URL to get to your website and was disappointed to find all the products are "swag" with logos on them rather than anything useful. I'm glad you've published a book, but why would I buy it if it just tells me how to use data I can't get? Also, with 2 dead cars I'm looking for rapid, actionable information(though I'm still curious enough that I found the duty-cycle info interesting if not super pertinent to the current issue) , I'm not sure if the rest of your audience is in semester-long classes but I thought I'd mention quick info would be helpful, to me, at least.
Paul , since I watched the vid first I just cleaned out the pintel and put it back and it was a no-go, so as you found out I disconnected the neg batt cable and guess what the MIL is off and I"m a happy camper. If you had used a memory saver to keep alive the radio stations ect, would this prevent the ecm resetting after the neg. cable is disconnected. Not sure what modules are kept alive when using a memory saver via. pin 16,4&5 .
but it would be misleading because you would see a 0% valve position. It would be the EVP voltage that would be the give away. I really learning something from this one. I almost put a valve it in. I figured it was good to show the whole process. Lesson learned here is do not take a potentiometer learned closed position as being 100% accurate. I've seen this with non adjustable TP sensors and now EGR EVPs.
Question: I cleaned my EGR valve on Sunday, but my idle is rougher than what it was before I cleaned it. I have Autoenginuity software that has bi-directional controls, so I commanded the valve open, and the engine stalls immediately. So, there isn't a problem with the passages, to the best of my knowledge. I tightened the bolts down as tight as I always do with intake manifold bolts, but I didn't use a new gasket. I'm thinking it "may" be a gasket issue. I sprayed brake cleaner around the valve gasket area, and the STFTs did get better slightly. Could the pintle valve be leaking, even though it is closed, via a weak spring, or a bad seat, etc. I didn't think to test the voltages like you are doing here, but I went ahead and ordered a new GM OEM valve, and GM OEM gasket anyway. The reason I am posting is because something isn't right, because my LTFTs went from under +5 on both banks to around 7-10 both positive on both banks at idle, and get better with RPM. So that obviously indicates a vacuum leak to me. Something isn't right there. It shouldn't have gotten worse with me cleaning it, unless the seat of the pintle somehow got damaged with me scraping it. I have been suspecting the EGR valve as being an issue for quite a while now. This is on a 2001 S-10 4.3L, with 165,000 miles on it. It doesn't smoke, nor burn a drop of oil. Hopefully the new valve and gasket will solve my issue. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for any input.
Lets say that EGR with a 50% Open is being installed after batt disconection,Is Ecu now taking it as 0% closed Positon?need answer Please?. 1000000....M THUMBS UP!! from me for ur great work bro.!!
ScannerDanner I have a 98 chevy cheyenne that's throwing code p1404 and a lean bank 1 and bank 2.. What's my issue and how may I fix it.. Because recently changed my egr value so I'm confused please help
nice, glad that helped. I know some of you guys were asking me about how to do that so I left that part in there. Was it clear what I was doing? Did you see how I actually had to pick the MAF sensor to graph the frequency?
@ScannerDanne.rnegative comments are good reference of improvement for the future, I like that tell me you are open mind you want to hear from that negative that way we will get accurate info , If I am learning it is going to confuse me if not getting accurate information in this video as other of your videos is not the case . Thank you scanner you are a big man and I am not talking about your tallness, great work excellent video . by the way I am Joel big fan of your hard teaching work.
I have an error p0403 and p1404. So I changed the egr valve but the errors are still there. At the first start of the day, when cold, the valve works between 5 and 10 minutes and then stops working. We can see that when the valve does not work anymore, the wastegate of the turbo stops too. I tried to disconnect the battery for half an hour or to touch the two battery connectors together to create a reset but still the same. I don't know how to reset the ECU.
i'm buying the ebook, also i bought myself a used vantage mt2400 to start seeing some waveforms but i don't know how to use the trigger or what it is for
Whoever gave this video a thumbs down already, at least tell me what you didn't like about it. This way I can learn and make improvements to future videos. I realize I can't please everyone, but it would help to here some negative comments too. Thanks
I think within the programming there would be a limit or threshold that would be allowable for the min position relearn. Maybe 10-15% of normal closed valve EVP voltage? I didn't get a chance to play around with this one. But you can be sure I will on the next one.
Thanks for the comment. I agree that my initial thought of needing a new PCM was wrong, however on the next sequence of filming (the reason I added additional material) my plan was to show what a battery disconnect may do. I said "may" because I wasn't 100% sure if it would work in this case. I've seen this condition with TPS issues but never with an EVP. The dead battery just jumped the gun on me. I don't mind the constructive criticism. I just didn't stumble on this fix. Paul.
I know that this is an old video but I wanted to ask, You don't recommend spraying some carb cleaner around the pintle area to dissolve any carbon? Thanks.
I have a 85 thunderbird and when my egr vacuum hose is connected to it, the egr valve opens and closes too soon. No vacuum leaks. I’ve cleaned it. Should I just buy a new one? Or what could cause it. It drives fine if I disconnect the egr vacuum hose.
I dont remember if that 85 uses a backpressure type of EGR valve. If it does, that port could be plugged in the EGR itself, in which case, yes, replacing it would be in order.
When the egr was replaced, did the owner reset the ECM using some kind of code reader? Or did he think just replacing the egr would turn off the CE light?
Fantastic as usual Paul and never too long of a vid. Working on a 2002 Montana right now with the same code, whats the odds I turn on the tube and my problem is solved, Thanks.
Whomever dislikes any of your videos is a moron and should go back to being a parts changer/part store diagnostic mechanic! Your videos are extremely detailed and right on the money! Keep em coming!
paul,have question. have problem with egr,in live data i see 3 parameters, valve pos dont drop less that 35% on idle,when engine under load i see it opens to 96% ,second egr feedback % is not changing by no conditions or idle or load ,number is same 86.5%. when i use by directional and command valve to open i hear it clicks,also on idle it dont die and rpm wont drop.
How is egr flow detected by the pcm??? I used your tests on a pierburg egr with great confidence (thanks), is it the o2 sensors that detect a change in mixture? What else? Thanks
Hi, just tried to manually open my EGR valve using a jumper wire to the ground side switched control wire. It would only open momentarily when I removed the jumper wire connection and wouldn't open when connected. can you shed any light as to why this is? 5v ref is good cheers pete
Scanner Dan. First thanks for this video. I have a 2002 Park Avenue with a 3800 Series II putting out the P1404 after replacing the EGR valve with a new valve. I have reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery although the code keeps coming back! Do you have any advice for me on this issue?
@@ScannerDanner is there a better way I can communicate with you? Do you have the time to walk me through the troubleshooting steps? I am going to need some help. I will be more than glad to compensate you for your time.
@@patrickalindsey there is, my forum www.scannerdanner.com It is free to join and we can absolutely help you there. Thanks for understanding. It's hard for me to keep up sometimes. I have other videos on this GM Linear EGR valve and how to test it with a voltmeter i just don't have any links offhand. I'm pretty sure you can find them in my chapter 7 (potentiometers) playlist or in my chapter 24?
leave your trigger setting on auto for now. basically a trigger is set to tell the scope where to start drawing the waveform. did you notice in this video as the battery was dieing, the square wave amplitude dropped to a point that I was having some triggering issues? well for the waveform, if the trigger is set to a level that exceeds the waveform amplitude, this will cause mis-triggering, or no signal at all to appear if using a manual trigger. auto will draw it anyway
What if you have multiple codes? 02 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 P0300, P0134, P0154, P0171, P0174, P0404, P1404 where do I start? No scam tool, only multimeter. Spark plugs new, EGR is clean, ohmed out o2 sensors(21 upstream/15 downstream) at idle. Now what?
You need a scan tool. Your not troubleshooting fuel trim issues without one. And that's only your P0171 and P0174 codes. After that, you need service info (flow charts and wiring diagrams) for the rest of those codes. Here is a link to the DIY version of the same service info I use eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Okay, so I have an '01 pontiac grand prix, 3800 ii engine, and the p1404 code came up about a month ago. I tried cleaning the valve with some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush, but that had no effect. After a little research and some advice from the man down at partsource, I ended up just replacing the damned valve, and clearing the code. There were no problems with it until now when the p1404 code came back up for the new valve. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a high-end scanner like in the video, just a simple 70 dollar scanner, so running tests and seeing exact voltages is currently not possible. Any suggestions?.. Other than "buy a new valve" or "see a licenced mechanic"
I am directing all help requests to my forum. Sign up (it's free) and create a new post. Be sure to add a name under "alias" as this is the name that will appear in the post. Here is the link to the forum. www.scannerdanner.com/ForumRetrieve.aspx?ForumID=3226 Thanks
I have the same code for my 1998 GMC k1500. took the valve off and cleaned it really good. did some Diagnostics on it and I'm puzzled because my power wire ( red/pink) wire when back probed and plugged in gives me a reading of 45.7 on the voltmeter. when I unplug it...it gives me a reading of 12 volts. why would the volts be different when plugged in vs unplugged??
not for gm. someone posted on here about a reprogram bulletin released from gm that resets minimum valve position on every key cycle to fix this problem. i know the newer models work this way
Also thank you for showing how to do the split screen (scan tool/scope) Ive seen you and mrgreasybob do this but cld never figure it out. One more thing are you using the wireless module with your verus? I have upgraded mine, its a very nice option to have when using the scope under the hood .
How well does the Veris work with an OBDI vehicle? Can you still run tests similar to this diagnostic method? I have a 1993 GMC Sonoma with the CPI (VIN W) 4.3l V6 and an '88 Pontiac Bonneville with the Series 1 3.8l V6 (with lots of issues) and am doing some research on different scantools. I have a line on an Innova Bi-directional scantool that looks like it matches my needs... BTW, I am ASE P2 certified and have a ~15 years of schooling and experience in Heavy Diesel and LD vehicles.
Any chance this driver could be an H bridge that is capable of supplying current in both directions? If you put your current probe on the wire does it show current in both directions?
Lol, it showed way more than that. But I suppose for those that don't care about learning testing methods, and system operations and only want to know the fix, then you're right, that's probably all you learned.
+Ambrosia Belladonna no. Separate problem. For additional information and or help. Sign up for my forum at www.scannerdanner.com. It is free to join. Hope to see you there!
It seems the replacement just doesn't close all the way -- apparently a defect. You can see light through it if you shine a light into the other hole. I blocked off the valve with a sheet of aluminum foil and it stopped stumbling at idle. It also started sticking badly at 4000 miles.
i have a Golf mk4 petrol i have a P1404 code (basic setting not performed) is my egr valve broken? my egr valve is disabled by a Tuner, but still i get this code.
Go to "Positive Lead Diagnostics" RUclips channel. ruclips.net/channel/UCiFSILHjs5XZecZJDwn7ieA His name is Tommy Wolfe and is a former student of mine and current VW master tech. He would be the one to guide you through this issue. OR post this question to my forum at www.scannerdanner.com. It is too hard for me to keep up here on RUclips with all of the help requests I get.
So it's weird...i went ahead and put a brand new EGR valve on and my check engine light has been off for about a week now. Everything on my end is fine. It was the EGR valve. I even cleaned my 3 month old EGR valve. Nothing!!! Did everything in the video, nothing!!! Brand new EGR valve BAM!!!! no check engine light. Anyways just wanted to give an update
I have a problem with my isuzu dmax sometimes when key is on and engine off the egr position is 0 And egr error shows up as 99.2 And check engine light is on, but when i start the car it disappears And egr functions normally
Wow, a lot learned on this video. Your still the BEST hands down. Thanks for putting so much effort into training thousands. NO ONE teaches like you! You are truly blessed!
Thanks so much Steve
Someone below suggested disconnecting the negative battery cable for half an hour and the EGR valve would reset to zero. I have just done that, and it works! Whether it will remain properly reset or revert to a P1404 problem remains to be seen. But for the time being: kudos!
Live and learn. Working on high end Germans I have to do the battery trick 3-4 times a week for anti-pinch windows, audio systems, climate controls you name it.
Removing both bat. terminals and shorting them for a minute to drain ecu capacitance brings thing back to its senses 90% of the time.
Man, Your attention to details and love for the subject is unparalleled.
Thanks again!
that is cool man. let me know how it goes and thanks for the encouragement.
I did a lot of theory on this one. I know some don't care for it but a lot of you do, so good to here that you liked it.
Great and important video. I just ran into this in a 2009 Town & Country. I replaced the EGR due to code P0404 and then P1404 code popped up. I went in and checked all of the values and saw similar data. Disconnected the battery and problem solved.
sweet!
Aside from disconnecting the battery to erase computer memory and reset a new learned value, I agree that cycling the key should have done the trick but, there is the possibility the PCM may have to be reprogrammed to address this concern. A lot of cars today are fixed with reprogramming to address a calibration process. Many times hours could be spent trying to fix the unfix-able when all it needed was a reprogram. All-in-all a great video for those still learning the trade. Job well done!
quick comment to those of you still following this. It has been a few weeks now and there is still no check engine light or returning trouble code for this EGR. I just felt it was important to update you in light of the TSB on the reflash of the PCM for this problem. Not saying the reflash doesn't need done, just saying that the resetting of the min. position was the fix. I am sure the reflash causes the PCM to do this on every key cycle instead of battery disconnect
Couldnt it be possibel that if the error is still stored it wouldnt RESET closed valve voltage? @scannerdanner
@@lauritsstergaard7798 that would be addressed by simply clearing the fault, and that was not the case. Great thinking though, it is that thought process that is needed sometimes
@@ScannerDanner but then what i dont get is how it would figure out if if the sensor is seated properly or the egr is held open by soot?
I Mean if it reset by every key cycle. I know it would look at maf or map at start up.
Holy crap you may have just saved me from shooting my 10g parts gun at my 98 Sierra. Recently changed my egr valve. Going to try this right now
This is a great video, videos like this remind me of what I overlook and forget about the art of diagnostics.
Wow Thanks a ton for the video, my Chevy Impala 2001 got the same problem and I got error codes P1404 and 1404 P (don't know this one). I cleaned the carbon residues with carb removing solvents and got the code again after a few drive cycles. I checked the EGR solenoid resistance (9 ohm, so okay) and my circuit voltages tests were positive as well.
Just disconnected the batteries and will reconnect again and hopefully it will fix the problem, Will update in this thread :)
P.S.: I ordered a new EGR valve but will return it now since that's apparently not the fix for this problem. Thanks again for this detailed video. Excellent work!!!
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS!
Hi,
I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there.
NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it.
It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours.
I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not.
NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4.
To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving.
No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission.
I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be.
I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried.
I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing.
Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing!
I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often.
To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them.
I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD.
I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground.
I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry.
I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure.
Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor.
I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all.
Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back.
Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go.
Behold, the truck runs great with no problems.
Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem.
I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve.
This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it.
The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire.
I removed the EGR valve again to double check it.
The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor.
Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test.
About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value.
Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect.
Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve.
Valve closed= 4.9k
Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall.
Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in..
Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss.
Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved.
Truck runs like new.
I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced.
I Got no codes for bad EGR
The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4
Sorry so long, hope it can help
TayloredSteam
+Scott Taylor (TayloredSteam) Awesome post! Takes a while to read, but will check out the MAP sensor...and maybe just change the EGR valve and be done with it. I can tell you my mechanic said it's not an issue to lose sleep over. Maybe down the road this could be a problem, but you can safely drive with the problem for a long, long time.
OH GOD!! I started watching this thinking of my Blazer. I constantly hard carbon build up.
nice, thanks! i never even looked for one. my bet is the update makes the pcm re-orient the 0% number on every key cycle.
This reminds me of some Ford models when you replace the oxygen sensors and dont reset the KAM and the O2s monitors wont complete with no pending codes preventing it from passing smog test. Also great video, i always thought the duty cycle percentage should match the valve position percentage and if not thought part was not functioning properly 👍🏽
I'm sure it's just haters and trolls. Anyone who came here to learn wouldn't have been disappointed. Personally I've learned alot on this channel, not just about cars but about electrical systems in general. Thanks from a fellow Pennsylvanian.
You just made my day man... I've had the same issue with my 2000 S10 4.3 with a P1404. Replaced the EGR and same code every time after 4 drive cycles. I was beginning to suspect either a PCM issue or a short somewhere. Gonna see if this works
cool man, let me know. IT is the right year range for this glitch in the programming.
ScannerDanner Well man come to find out... I pulled the pos & neg cables last night, touched em together to clear the kam, and left them disconnected all night. Next morning after hooking em back up the truck fired right up (unusual because I've been experiencing a cold-start flooding issue the last month or so). I've checked the egr wiring as far as voltages. I have 12v, 5v ref, pintle signal, and the only one in question is my ground. I did read on GM tsb online that the only way to correct this issue is with an pcm update... I've even checked the egr orifices- started it up and blown em out, new egr, etc. Same code still every time I clear it with my Autel... Any thoughts? Would you be able to somehow send me the egr circuit diagram and pcm pinouts for the egr circuit. Gonna dig a little deeper and see if there's any shorts, bad connections, etc. Seems that most GM vehicles with the 4.3 are experiencing the P1404 problem from what I've read online. Thanks in advance
Nice one. I especially like these videos because they're obviously not rehearsed. We get to witness the head scratching too. An alternative to the detour between screens etc. around 19 to 20 minutes, would have been to just point out the approximate 8 millisecond period between a rising edge and a rising edge, then divide this 8 milliseconds into 1000 milliseconds, hence the approximate 125 Hz frequency. Thanks for posting these videos. They really do make this stuff so understandable.
I like how an unexpected inconvenience, of the battery dying, showed the true fix. I was just thinking, on the way home, when I got a P1404 code suddenly. I don't want to keep replacing things, and it still not being the fix. Because that has happened.
Great question! You think like me. I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking of playing around with this. Like maybe jamming a piece of paper in the pintle (temporarily) and then disconnecting the battery and see if I could get the PCM to zero the position. My guess is there is an allowable range for the self zero and it is not the full range of the sensor. As for the scenario you mentioned, a stuck open EGR will give a rough idle and negative fuel trim numbers...
I'd already installed a New EGR valve, continued to get P1404
Then I watched this video and:
Disconnected the negative wire from the battery for an hour
Because I was busy, not because I thought I needed to wait an hour
AFTER an hour
Reconnected the negative wire to the battery
Started the car
Success
This fixed a P1404 on a 01 Chevy Impala 3.8 that was still giving P1404 after installing a new EGR valve
The following is just some speculation:
I never cleaned my throttle body so I have no idea if it's clogged or clean. I advise you to check out his other video on cleaning the throttle body because it's an awesome video and because I believe that the resetting of the computer (disconnecting the negative from the battery for half an hour) is simply resetting the computer/EGR to work with the throttle body that is [in my case] probably still gunked up.
Unplugging the battery fixed my problem; it got rid of the P1404 code.
But I as soon as I have time I will clean the throttle body and unplug the battery again (to re reset the computer with the clean throttle body)
I'll update this comment if the throttle body was gunked up.
If you have any information or thoughts on my speculation, please reply to my comment because I'd like to know if I'm right or wrong in my understanding of the reset
It has nothing to do with the throttle body. The old EGR position sensor had a learned closed valve voltage reading that differs from the new one. On newer models, the closed EGR position is a learned value on every key cycle. On your car it is also a learned value but it gets written into a keep alive memory and is ONLY reset or relearns on battery disconnect. Make sense?
@@ScannerDanner I still have the same question...
The learned voltage; it doesn't have anything to do with the throughput/passageway inside the throttle body?
For example, does the EGR valve change it's voltage/position based on the size of the opening inside the passageway in the throttle body (that passageway you showed in the other video where it was completely black and looked almost sealed off)
And thank you for the insanely fast reply
Nope, just simply closed valve (EGR pintle) position. It allows for manufacturer tolerances.
With plugged passages you will get flow codes which are based on psi changes from the MAP sensor. You will NOT get position error codes from plugged passages.
@@ScannerDanner AWESOME, thank you for explaining that! I'm extremely grateful that you replied so fast and directly addressed my misunderstanding. I now have a better understanding of EGR thanks to you! Thank you times a million!! Have a great rest of your day!!👍
@@abab201 cool man, I'm glad that last description made sense. It is hard to convey this type of stuff in text form sometimes. Thanks!
Nothing wrong with the video . It's a real life situation , your get so involved with the fix that you forget the battery will go flat . If that had happened to me , I would have replaced or re charge battery only to find the car was fixed and wouldn't no why . Thanks to your real life situation I now now . Brill video , just keep em coming . Gary uk .
I would definitely be interested in the book., although it seems the students love the videos.
Very nice Mr. Danner. Had same code, same fix on a 01 grand am tuesday of this week. I actually unhooked battery to remove upper intake for oil pump drive o-ring replacement and when battery was reconnected egr data was normal so called it a fix now its just a little more clear as to why;-p
ah good question my friend. the key would be to measure both wires with the solenoid energized and de-energized. at this point conventional voltmeter ID can be done as described in Section 3 of my eBook.
De-energized,12&12=ground side switched
De-energized,0&0=power side switched.
Then energize the solenoid and see which wire changes. This is your control wire.
Oh and experience is key here too :-) Every single one of these solenoids with this design, I have found to be power side switched.
Just did one of these on a 3800 in a 2001 Buick Regal. New EGR valve but still set code P1404 again. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes finally relearned closed position as 0 percent. Relearned that 0.75 volts was minimum EGR position
I have used Dental picks for cleaning these EGR valves. Works pretty well.
That is a great question. Never noticed until now. I am not sure, maybe my ground connection on my scope was bad? It doesn't change anything from what we were doing , but it is a great question
no, EGR gas will displace oxygen in the cylinder. less oxygen with the same pulse width command = richer than normal ratio and negative fuel trim numbers.
thanks for the positive feedback!
I was told after you install the EGR valve do not plug it in go in to the car put on your scanner then reset the codes or erase them then turn the key off then go out and plug the connection back into the EGR valve. They say this resets the codes
On these older systems a battery disconnect is what is needed to reset the 0% closed valve position after you change the valve. Newer cars reset this 0 count on every key cycle.
i like scannerdanner videos and have learned some new stuff myself, but i have a lot of experience in the field also. not taking anything away from Dan, but in this case he stumbled on the solution by accident. it happens to the best of us even me. from my 25 plus years of experience i knew the problem before he was even finished with the video and was wondering why he was going to tell the customer to get a knew part after 4 used parts, but i couldn't tell him. actually it was a simple fix
Love your videos! I am an automotive instructor at a college in Texas. Your videos are awesome in the classroom before going into the lab. Would be an honor to work with you.
+marc wischkaemper thanks man! What can I do to help you with your class?
+ScannerDanner Just keep doing what you do. I am working with the Picoscope and the WPX500 pressure. This is all new stuff for the college. I am trying to get them up to speed with the latest diagnostic solutions. You are my go to guy! If you make it to Lubbock, Tx, I would love to visit.
+marc wischkaemper thanks man, I really appreciate your support. If you ever want my text book for your class let me know.
thanks man. there is a reprogram for this code as you suggested.
Michael Brown posted the bulletin number on this thread
Fantastic; is the one word that describes this video.
Wow, thank you!
This guy has Integrity. Thank You Dan.
good question, no need for reverse polarity with a solenoid like this one.
I believe the purpose for both solenoid wires going to the PCM in this redesign by GM is for better circuit monitoring. but I'm not 100% sure.
I am positive that it is not a reverse polarity design though
My first generation Verus times out after 30 seconds and locks control out for 60 seconds, so you better act fast. I guess that's some kind of safety feature they put in the12.2 version, I don't know haven't had mine but about a month. Just got it back from a level 5 repair, that's what happens when you buy used i guess, Great Vid as always.
Mr. Scannerdanner I need your help. I am getting the same code for my 1997 GMC K 1500 5.7 Vortec. Before I bought the truck the gentleman before replaced the valve twice because of this code. After watching this video I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes then I hooked it back up. The code came back on after a week. So I went ahead and took the valve off cleaned it really good like you demonstrated in the video. I went ahead and disconnected the negative battery cable again and then I hooked it back up. The same code came back on. I went ahead and bought a Delphi EGR valve brand new. I threw that baby on and the code never came back on....... until Friday. The same code is back and this time when I clear it it immediately comes back on. I have no idea what it could be. I'm going to take the valve off and clean it and disconnect the battery but I can't imagine after a month the valve would already need to be cleaned again. Or that it would already throw a code. My OBD2 scanner tells me the EGR system is complete. How could it be complete if the valve is not closing all the way? So I guess my question is how do I fix this and if I can't fix it due to some crazy unexplained reason. My truck should still pass emissions because the valve is still opening it's just not closing all the way.?
I've seen some crazy stuff on these. One guy changed his fuel pump and reversed the sending unit wire ground (for the float) and the pump ground which backfed the entire computer system ground with too much amperage, elevating the sensor ground voltage. We can check for this easily.
Also, I need to know what the EVP voltage is with the key on and then again with it running at idle. Let's start there okay?
ScannerDanner my evp with the key on is .82 volts. The reading I was getting before I took it off and cleaned it was 1.085 volts, disconnected my battery and I placed it back on and now my reading is .82 volts. With the vehicle idling my EVP voltage is 1.82..... could my EGR valve possibly be backwards? Or do those readings seem normal
ScannerDanner so today I was looking at my emissions readiness on my OBD2 scanner and when my egr system completed. My check engine light would kick on. NOT TODAY :) the good cleaning I didn't think did anything, worked. I find it kind of a pain that these egr valve have this problem. Especially these type of EGR valves. Anyways thanks for your help. I really enjoy watching all your videos. Keep up the good work
ScannerDanner well, I spoke way too soon. My check engine light came back on..same code. Mr danner I guess if you could tell me what you think of the numbers I told regarding my EVPs. Thanks again for your reply.
Could you have done a scan tool relearn instead of disconnecting the battery?
in first place a big thank you for your educational work, you really have the gift of teaching. In second place a question:The open EGR will cause a lean condition, hence the fuel trim numbers should go positive, shouldn't they?
it was clear to me... thanks again, ive used it already as well, honestly i would always use another scan tool to run the function test but much easier this way.
I wish my teacher was like you... the way my teacher teachers is very poor.... just gives us a worksheet and tells us to go figure it out and have no idea what we r doing lol...
so the magnetic field strength changes to change position?
Can we get any information about the diagnostic tools you're using (including the clip style multimeter)? I love the info on troubleshooting but it's not helpful if there's no way for me to get any of the data. I typed your URL to get to your website and was disappointed to find all the products are "swag" with logos on them rather than anything useful. I'm glad you've published a book, but why would I buy it if it just tells me how to use data I can't get? Also, with 2 dead cars I'm looking for rapid, actionable information(though I'm still curious enough that I found the duty-cycle info interesting if not super pertinent to the current issue) , I'm not sure if the rest of your audience is in semester-long classes but I thought I'd mention quick info would be helpful, to me, at least.
Paul , since I watched the vid first I just cleaned out the pintel and put it back and it was a no-go, so as you found out I disconnected the neg batt cable and guess what the MIL is off and I"m a happy camper. If you had used a memory saver to keep alive the radio stations ect, would this prevent the ecm resetting after the neg. cable is disconnected. Not sure what modules are kept alive when using a memory saver via. pin 16,4&5 .
but it would be misleading because you would see a 0% valve position. It would be the EVP voltage that would be the give away. I really learning something from this one. I almost put a valve it in. I figured it was good to show the whole process.
Lesson learned here is do not take a potentiometer learned closed position as being 100% accurate. I've seen this with non adjustable TP sensors and now EGR EVPs.
Well explained thank you.
Question: I cleaned my EGR valve on Sunday, but my idle is rougher than what it was before I cleaned it. I have Autoenginuity software that has bi-directional controls, so I commanded the valve open, and the engine stalls immediately. So, there isn't a problem with the passages, to the best of my knowledge. I tightened the bolts down as tight as I always do with intake manifold bolts, but I didn't use a new gasket. I'm thinking it "may" be a gasket issue. I sprayed brake cleaner around the valve gasket area, and the STFTs did get better slightly. Could the pintle valve be leaking, even though it is closed, via a weak spring, or a bad seat, etc. I didn't think to test the voltages like you are doing here, but I went ahead and ordered a new GM OEM valve, and GM OEM gasket anyway. The reason I am posting is because something isn't right, because my LTFTs went from under +5 on both banks to around 7-10 both positive on both banks at idle, and get better with RPM. So that obviously indicates a vacuum leak to me. Something isn't right there. It shouldn't have gotten worse with me cleaning it, unless the seat of the pintle somehow got damaged with me scraping it. I have been suspecting the EGR valve as being an issue for quite a while now. This is on a 2001 S-10 4.3L, with 165,000 miles on it. It doesn't smoke, nor burn a drop of oil. Hopefully the new valve and gasket will solve my issue. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for any input.
Lets say that EGR with a 50% Open is being installed after batt disconection,Is Ecu now taking it as 0% closed Positon?need answer Please?. 1000000....M THUMBS UP!! from me for ur great work bro.!!
ScannerDanner I have a 98 chevy cheyenne that's throwing code p1404 and a lean bank 1 and bank 2.. What's my issue and how may I fix it.. Because recently changed my egr value so I'm confused please help
nice, glad that helped. I know some of you guys were asking me about how to do that so I left that part in there. Was it clear what I was doing? Did you see how I actually had to pick the MAF sensor to graph the frequency?
@ScannerDanne.rnegative comments are good reference of improvement for the future, I like that tell me you are open mind you want to hear from that negative that way we will get accurate info , If I am learning it is going to confuse me if not getting accurate information in this video as other of your videos is not the case . Thank you scanner you are a big man and I am not talking about your tallness, great work excellent video . by the way I am Joel big fan of your hard teaching work.
I have an error p0403 and p1404. So I changed the egr valve but the errors are still there. At the first start of the day, when cold, the valve works between 5 and 10 minutes and then stops working. We can see that when the valve does not work anymore, the wastegate of the turbo stops too. I tried to disconnect the battery for half an hour or to touch the two battery connectors together to create a reset but still the same. I don't know how to reset the ECU.
i'm buying the ebook, also i bought myself a used vantage mt2400 to start seeing some waveforms but i don't know how to use the trigger or what it is for
Whoever gave this video a thumbs down already, at least tell me what you didn't like about it. This way I can learn and make improvements to future videos. I realize I can't please everyone, but it would help to here some negative comments too. Thanks
I think within the programming there would be a limit or threshold that would be allowable for the min position relearn. Maybe 10-15% of normal closed valve EVP voltage? I didn't get a chance to play around with this one. But you can be sure I will on the next one.
Thanks for the comment. I agree that my initial thought of needing a new PCM was wrong, however on the next sequence of filming (the reason I added additional material) my plan was to show what a battery disconnect may do. I said "may" because I wasn't 100% sure if it would work in this case. I've seen this condition with TPS issues but never with an EVP. The dead battery just jumped the gun on me. I don't mind the constructive criticism. I just didn't stumble on this fix.
Paul.
What scanner tool do you recomend for testing a 308 Peugeot egr valve I seem to be replacing g a lot of these and unable to test the motors
I know that this is an old video but I wanted to ask, You don't recommend spraying some carb cleaner around the pintle area to dissolve any carbon? Thanks.
Question. So disconnecting negative will that suffice or negative and positive? Also do I unplug the unit also or no? For 2000 GMC Yukon xl with a 5.3
just disconnect the negative and leave it off for a few minutes
I have a 85 thunderbird and when my egr vacuum hose is connected to it, the egr valve opens and closes too soon. No vacuum leaks. I’ve cleaned it. Should I just buy a new one? Or what could cause it. It drives fine if I disconnect the egr vacuum hose.
I dont remember if that 85 uses a backpressure type of EGR valve. If it does, that port could be plugged in the EGR itself, in which case, yes, replacing it would be in order.
When the egr was replaced, did the owner reset the ECM using some kind of code reader? Or did he think just replacing the egr would turn off the CE light?
Definately a lessoned learned !!!
Fantastic as usual Paul and never too long of a vid. Working on a 2002 Montana right now with the same code, whats the odds I turn on the tube and my problem is solved, Thanks.
Could the EGR valve also be related to the 4th gen maxima p1404 code?
Whomever dislikes any of your videos is a moron and should go back to being a parts changer/part store diagnostic mechanic! Your videos are extremely detailed and right on the money!
Keep em coming!
Good teaching SD
thank you very much!
paul,have question. have problem with egr,in live data i see 3 parameters, valve pos dont drop less that 35% on idle,when engine under load i see it opens to 96% ,second egr feedback % is not changing by no conditions or idle or load ,number is same 86.5%. when i use by directional and command valve to open i hear it clicks,also on idle it dont die and rpm wont drop.
I am directing all tech questions to my forum. Sign up, it's free
www.scannerdanner.com/ForumRetrieve.aspx?ForumID=3226
Great explanation!!! dzięki!
So I have a 1404 code on my 2000 Camaro 3.8L. Would this cause a crank no start?
thank you my friend
My egr position is at 22% and never moves could this be why it has acceleration problem? It’s stuck
hi Paul
Is it ok to manually energise a solenoid when is duty cycle control , by giving if full ground,or in this case full power (+).
Just don't do it for a long time. I've never hurt one
@@ScannerDanner ok thenks,you are doing amazing job
How is egr flow detected by the pcm??? I used your tests on a pierburg egr with great confidence (thanks), is it the o2 sensors that detect a change in mixture? What else? Thanks
Hi,
just tried to manually open my EGR valve using a jumper wire to the ground side switched control wire. It would only open momentarily when I removed the jumper wire connection and wouldn't open when connected.
can you shed any light as to why this is?
5v ref is good
cheers
pete
04 Ford C-Max 2.0 tdci, electronic 5 wire valve
Scanner Dan. First thanks for this video. I have a 2002 Park Avenue with a 3800 Series II putting out the P1404 after replacing the EGR valve with a new valve. I have reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery although the code keeps coming back! Do you have any advice for me on this issue?
What is your closed valve EVP voltage?
@@ScannerDanner I do not know at this time. What tool do I need to acquire in order to discover the voltage?
@@patrickalindsey just a digital voltmeter and measure it directly on the signal wire
@@ScannerDanner is there a better way I can communicate with you? Do you have the time to walk me through the troubleshooting steps? I am going to need some help. I will be more than glad to compensate you for your time.
@@patrickalindsey there is, my forum www.scannerdanner.com
It is free to join and we can absolutely help you there. Thanks for understanding. It's hard for me to keep up sometimes. I have other videos on this GM Linear EGR valve and how to test it with a voltmeter i just don't have any links offhand. I'm pretty sure you can find them in my chapter 7 (potentiometers) playlist or in my chapter 24?
leave your trigger setting on auto for now. basically a trigger is set to tell the scope where to start drawing the waveform. did you notice in this video as the battery was dieing, the square wave amplitude dropped to a point that I was having some triggering issues? well for the waveform, if the trigger is set to a level that exceeds the waveform amplitude, this will cause mis-triggering, or no signal at all to appear if using a manual trigger. auto will draw it anyway
What if you have multiple codes? 02 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 P0300, P0134, P0154, P0171, P0174, P0404, P1404 where do I start? No scam tool, only multimeter. Spark plugs new, EGR is clean, ohmed out o2 sensors(21 upstream/15 downstream) at idle. Now what?
You need a scan tool. Your not troubleshooting fuel trim issues without one. And that's only your P0171 and P0174 codes.
After that, you need service info (flow charts and wiring diagrams) for the rest of those codes.
Here is a link to the DIY version of the same service info I use
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
@@ScannerDanner ok thanks I’ll check the link
Okay, so I have an '01 pontiac grand prix, 3800 ii engine, and the p1404 code came up about a month ago. I tried cleaning the valve with some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush, but that had no effect. After a little research and some advice from the man down at partsource, I ended up just replacing the damned valve, and clearing the code. There were no problems with it until now when the p1404 code came back up for the new valve. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a high-end scanner like in the video, just a simple 70 dollar scanner, so running tests and seeing exact voltages is currently not possible. Any suggestions?.. Other than "buy a new valve" or "see a licenced mechanic"
I am directing all help requests to my forum. Sign up (it's free) and create a new post. Be sure to add a name under "alias" as this is the name that will appear in the post.
Here is the link to the forum.
www.scannerdanner.com/ForumRetrieve.aspx?ForumID=3226
Thanks
lol didnt you see the video?
I have the same code for my 1998 GMC k1500. took the valve off and cleaned it really good. did some Diagnostics on it and I'm puzzled because my power wire ( red/pink) wire when back probed and plugged in gives me a reading of 45.7 on the voltmeter. when I unplug it...it gives me a reading of 12 volts. why would the volts be different when plugged in vs unplugged??
It's a bias voltage and is normal. It's used by the ECM for diagnostics.
Great video
I have been busy working on my lecture series videos. I'll try to upload 1 soon
what do you do when this wont reset, I have had the battery off for 30 min and it refuses to relearn the closed position voltage. 02 bonneville
Disconnect the battery terminals then touch them together. This will discharge the memory capacitors in the ECM
not for gm. someone posted on here about a reprogram bulletin released from gm that resets minimum valve position on every key cycle to fix this problem. i know the newer models work this way
nice. thanks for the tip
Also thank you for showing how to do the split screen (scan tool/scope) Ive seen you and mrgreasybob do this but cld never figure it out. One more thing are you using the wireless module with your verus? I have upgraded mine, its a very nice option to have when using the scope under the hood .
How well does the Veris work with an OBDI vehicle? Can you still run tests similar to this diagnostic method? I have a 1993 GMC Sonoma with the CPI (VIN W) 4.3l V6 and an '88 Pontiac Bonneville with the Series 1 3.8l V6 (with lots of issues) and am doing some research on different scantools. I have a line on an Innova Bi-directional scantool that looks like it matches my needs... BTW, I am ASE P2 certified and have a ~15 years of schooling and experience in Heavy Diesel and LD vehicles.
Any chance this driver could be an H bridge that is capable of supplying current in both directions? If you put your current probe on the wire does it show current in both directions?
this 46min video shows you one thing: disconnect battery after EGR change so computer can learn, thanks.
Lol, it showed way more than that. But I suppose for those that don't care about learning testing methods, and system operations and only want to know the fix, then you're right, that's probably all you learned.
different unless you have a clear KAM like Ford does but even that doesn't reset some parameters. (BARO HZ comes to mind)
would having an egr closed performance p1404 cause a p0171 system to lean (bank 1) code?
+Ambrosia Belladonna no. Separate problem.
For additional information and or help. Sign up for my forum at www.scannerdanner.com. It is free to join. Hope to see you there!
clearing the codes would not reset this learned closed valve position. only a battery disconnect. newer systems this is reset on every key cycle
thanks man. sometimes it is easy to miss the little things huh?
I couldn't hurt, but I have to be honest with you. I generally do not. Most of the time it isn't necessary. Lesson learned on this one though huh?
Supposing you replace the valve, disconnect the battery, make sure any capacitors are drained, and still get the code?
You didn't bolt in on backwards did you? Some of them you can and vacuum will end up opening the EGR valve when you start it.
It seems the replacement just doesn't close all the way -- apparently a defect. You can see light through it if you shine a light into the other hole. I blocked off the valve with a sheet of aluminum foil and it stopped stumbling at idle.
It also started sticking badly at 4000 miles.
i have a Golf mk4 petrol i have a P1404 code (basic setting not performed) is my egr valve broken? my egr valve is disabled by a Tuner, but still i get this code.
Go to "Positive Lead Diagnostics" RUclips channel. ruclips.net/channel/UCiFSILHjs5XZecZJDwn7ieA
His name is Tommy Wolfe and is a former student of mine and current VW master tech. He would be the one to guide you through this issue. OR post this question to my forum at www.scannerdanner.com. It is too hard for me to keep up here on RUclips with all of the help requests I get.
Thanks man.. i really like your videos. you are a good teacher.
So it's weird...i went ahead and put a brand new EGR valve on and my check engine light has been off for about a week now. Everything on my end is fine. It was the EGR valve. I even cleaned my 3 month old EGR valve. Nothing!!! Did everything in the video, nothing!!! Brand new EGR valve BAM!!!! no check engine light. Anyways just wanted to give an update
My egr valve is not getting power what gives it power the EVAP canister solenot or a relay or fuse ?
Please someone help
I have a problem with my isuzu dmax
sometimes when key is on and engine off the egr position is 0
And egr error shows up as 99.2
And check engine light is on, but when i start the car it disappears
And egr functions normally
so your check engine light comes on at times while driving? what is your complaint? symptoms?
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!!!!!!
is egr duty cycle the amount of current flow that the computer is commanding?
Yes!