I appreciate your response and will let you know the outcome. I wanted to aircheck it but I didnt have air so I will fix my compressor first as thats my life story then pull the trans again.
You're welcome, Dirk...Sorry to hear it's been such an ordeal but third time will be the charm...Let me know what you find once you have it back apart!
Fantastic video! Do you have a tip for installing check balls while trans is in the truck? Maybe some type of grease to keep them temporarily stuck in there?
Thanks, Dan! If you have some petroleum jelly you can use that. Otherwise, purchase some green Assembly Goo on Amazon or eBay (or your local transmission parts supplier). Either of those will hold those check balls in place while you reinstall the valve body.
Great video and great series. Concerning the separator plate, i know on the 4R70W, 4R75E, Sonnax makes a thicker plate because the factory plate is regularly impacted by one of the accumulator pistons. Is this an issue at all with the 4R100?
Thank you, the EZLife! There's not the same issue w/the E4OD and 4R100 transmissions like what is often observed with the 4R70-75Ws...The 4R100/E4OD don't have any acc pistons that make direct contact with the spacer plate, all the accumulation takes place in the accumulator body on those units.
what parts would you recommend for a 4r100 rebuild behind a 04 f250 4x4 V10 gas motor ? Truck is a daily driver and tows a 10k lb fifth wheel. No crazy horsepower mods just upgraded gear ratio to 4.56 diffs. Thank you again for any info.
I'd recommend pretty much the same parts selection and build strategy for the V10s as with the diesels that you saw in my rebuild series...Go with a custom low-stall converter if you think you'll be pulling more weight than the 10k lb fifth wheel. I like Raybestos ZPG frictions for all clutch packs; Kolene-coated steels are an option as well.
Hi Daniel, sure. I just updated the description for first video in the series w/a complete parts list...You can find all of the parts either on eBay (all inclusive kits, shift kits, Sonnax parts), Amazon or your local transmission parts supply shop. Here's the link to the initial video in the 4R100 rebuild series: ruclips.net/video/Tm12GezIQww/видео.html
Awesome series. You should however put some details on the gasoline and diesel pumps, because that is such an easy and a costly mistake to make. Also looking forward to seeing you do a 5R110!
Thank you and great suggestion, Shalash87...I'll put together a video on C6 pump differences when a diesel C6 comes into the shop. May doing (and filming) a 5R110 build for a 6.0 Powerstroke later in the spring.
Hi C P, this sounds like either a short/grounding issue somewhere between the PCM and transmission or possibly the PCM itself...A sizable fraction of P1747 codes are caused not the solenoid pack itself but problems upstream of the solenoid pack. Check the external wiring harness going to the transmission as well as all grounds, ground straps, etc...If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, I'd be inclined to suspect your PCM.
@@nickstransmissions thanks! I'll try to figure out how to test for a short to ground; my mechanic mentioned it could be the pass through connector on the solenoid pack, and I suspect the connector itself or the PCM because I didn't find any fraying on the wire. Thanks!
Thank you for watching, Terry. The total number of check balls that go into the unit depends on the year you're working on, valve body design (1st or 2nd) and specific recalibration kit you're using.
for some reason my valve body dose not have 8 5/16 check balls. It has 6 5/16 and 2 1/4 and I don't know where to put them.Thanks in advance for any advice. It is in a 2001 7.3 F-350
Hi Bill, Did you watch the video? Also, are there any alterations to your separator plate that may have been made to facilitate the omission of the two 5/16" check balls? I've always used the Transgo Tugger kit and/or Reprogramming kit and they don't have you omit any check balls.
@@nickstransmissions yes I did about 5 times and then three more times this morning. you say theses are all 5/16 at 18 seconds into the video. I know there are two 1\4 in the control body, but they where never apart at the same time. Am I missing something?
Ok, thank you for all the views.."Yes" - to answer your question. Either you're not watching the whole video or simply skipping over where I show all the check balls... I show exactly where the check balls go for both the case and the valve body. The case check ball locations are shown 18 seconds in to the video and the valve body check balls are shown at 13:20. That's why I had initially asked if you watched as I clearly show where all the check ball locations are in the video. Is there something else that I am missing from your question? If so, please re-state so I can know what information you need.
Not that good of an eye. I went through my trans twice & I have to pull it out a third time. I have to rev the hell out of it to back up & forwards are stubborn. A transmission bench vid said torque the center support to 20ft lbs but as you know it's 7 or 8ft lbs. Could that be my issue?
@@DirkWilson Sorry to hear that, man - I know that's extremely frustrating. I wouldn't think 20 ft lbs is enough to crack the case in those locations but you won't know until you have the trans out and torn down again... Check your low-reverse piston seals, one may have gotten pinched...You have to use tons of assembly lube to prevent that from happening but it should have been caught on an air check of the L/R...I did the same thing once and had a ton of hissing coming from the piston when I air checked it...Tore it back down and saw I rolled the seal in an area that I missed with assembly lube coverage. The forward drum may be cracked or you may have simply rolled a lip seal, same situation... Thoroughly air check each drum/clutch pack individually (except the int) then the case once it's all together, including the intermediates and OD. That helps you catch problems 99% of the time. Let me know what you find once you have it apart...
I appreciate your response and will let you know the outcome. I wanted to aircheck it but I didnt have air so I will fix my compressor first as thats my life story then pull the trans again.
You're welcome, Dirk...Sorry to hear it's been such an ordeal but third time will be the charm...Let me know what you find once you have it back apart!
Awesome video. Question. What about if you don't put those check balls on the valve body..? Any issues or nothing to worry about.
Thanks for the kind words, man. Don't leave out any check balls, either in the VB or the case.
Fantastic video! Do you have a tip for installing check balls while trans is in the truck? Maybe some type of grease to keep them temporarily stuck in there?
Thanks, Dan! If you have some petroleum jelly you can use that. Otherwise, purchase some green Assembly Goo on Amazon or eBay (or your local transmission parts supplier). Either of those will hold those check balls in place while you reinstall the valve body.
Thank you sir! Subbed!
Thanks, Dan!
Great video and great series.
Concerning the separator plate, i know on the 4R70W, 4R75E, Sonnax makes a thicker plate because the factory plate is regularly impacted by one of the accumulator pistons. Is this an issue at all with the 4R100?
Thank you, the EZLife! There's not the same issue w/the E4OD and 4R100 transmissions like what is often observed with the 4R70-75Ws...The 4R100/E4OD don't have any acc pistons that make direct contact with the spacer plate, all the accumulation takes place in the accumulator body on those units.
bruh,can you do 500 hp rated rebuild 4r100 ? how much cost ?
Great video series Nick. Are you located in California ?
Thanks, Scotts! Appreciate the kind words.
what parts would you recommend for a 4r100 rebuild behind a 04 f250 4x4 V10 gas motor ? Truck is a daily driver and tows a 10k lb fifth wheel. No crazy horsepower mods just upgraded gear ratio to 4.56 diffs. Thank you again for any info.
I'd recommend pretty much the same parts selection and build strategy for the V10s as with the diesels that you saw in my rebuild series...Go with a custom low-stall converter if you think you'll be pulling more weight than the 10k lb fifth wheel. I like Raybestos ZPG frictions for all clutch packs; Kolene-coated steels are an option as well.
how can i contact you to rebuild a trans ? thanks
Could you link me to a recommended parts list for a 4r100 I want to try the rebuild myself. Thank you!
Hi Daniel, sure. I just updated the description for first video in the series w/a complete parts list...You can find all of the parts either on eBay (all inclusive kits, shift kits, Sonnax parts), Amazon or your local transmission parts supply shop.
Here's the link to the initial video in the 4R100 rebuild series: ruclips.net/video/Tm12GezIQww/видео.html
@@nickstransmissions Have Two 4R100 For You ~ what's The Contact INFO Please Thank You !
Awesome series. You should however put some details on the gasoline and diesel pumps, because that is such an easy and a costly mistake to make. Also looking forward to seeing you do a 5R110!
Thank you and great suggestion, Shalash87...I'll put together a video on C6 pump differences when a diesel C6 comes into the shop. May doing (and filming) a 5R110 build for a 6.0 Powerstroke later in the spring.
Do you know what could be causing code p1747 only to appear? I've replaced the solenoid pack twice and it's still happening... :-(
Hi C P, this sounds like either a short/grounding issue somewhere between the PCM and transmission or possibly the PCM itself...A sizable fraction of P1747 codes are caused not the solenoid pack itself but problems upstream of the solenoid pack.
Check the external wiring harness going to the transmission as well as all grounds, ground straps, etc...If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, I'd be inclined to suspect your PCM.
@@nickstransmissions thanks! I'll try to figure out how to test for a short to ground; my mechanic mentioned it could be the pass through connector on the solenoid pack, and I suspect the connector itself or the PCM because I didn't find any fraying on the wire. Thanks!
You're welcome, man!
So there's a total of nine check balls
Thank you for watching, Terry. The total number of check balls that go into the unit depends on the year you're working on, valve body design (1st or 2nd) and specific recalibration kit you're using.
Ok I lost one ,the small one under the plate ,I appreciate it
@@nickstransmissions ur video are really helpful
Thanks Terry, appreciate the kind words.
I agree with both of you guys, there is more check balls than 8, and my 02 2wd trans 7.3 diesel has 2 More 1/4 check balls oem installed.
for some reason my valve body dose not have 8 5/16 check balls. It has 6 5/16 and 2 1/4 and I don't know where to put them.Thanks in advance for any advice. It is in a 2001 7.3 F-350
Hi Bill,
Did you watch the video?
Also, are there any alterations to your separator plate that may have been made to facilitate the omission of the two 5/16" check balls? I've always used the Transgo Tugger kit and/or Reprogramming kit and they don't have you omit any check balls.
@@nickstransmissions yes I did about 5 times and then three more times this morning. you say theses are all 5/16 at 18 seconds into the video. I know there are two 1\4 in the control body, but they where never apart at the same time. Am I missing something?
Ok, thank you for all the views.."Yes" - to answer your question. Either you're not watching the whole video or simply skipping over where I show all the check balls...
I show exactly where the check balls go for both the case and the valve body. The case check ball locations are shown 18 seconds in to the video and the valve body check balls are shown at 13:20.
That's why I had initially asked if you watched as I clearly show where all the check ball locations are in the video.
Is there something else that I am missing from your question? If so, please re-state so I can know what information you need.
Didn't torque the 10mil not by the shift lever.o
Good eye - I noticed that as well after watching the completed video. Went back and torqued / rechecked all those fasteners. Thank you for watching!
Not that good of an eye. I went through my trans twice & I have to pull it out a third time. I have to rev the hell out of it to back up & forwards are stubborn. A transmission bench vid said torque the center support to 20ft lbs but as you know it's 7 or 8ft lbs. Could that be my issue?
@@DirkWilson Sorry to hear that, man - I know that's extremely frustrating. I wouldn't think 20 ft lbs is enough to crack the case in those locations but you won't know until you have the trans out and torn down again... Check your low-reverse piston seals, one may have gotten pinched...You have to use tons of assembly lube to prevent that from happening but it should have been caught on an air check of the L/R...I did the same thing once and had a ton of hissing coming from the piston when I air checked it...Tore it back down and saw I rolled the seal in an area that I missed with assembly lube coverage. The forward drum may be cracked or you may have simply rolled a lip seal, same situation...
Thoroughly air check each drum/clutch pack individually (except the int) then the case once it's all together, including the intermediates and OD. That helps you catch problems 99% of the time.
Let me know what you find once you have it apart...