DISCUSSION | Aftermarket Wheel Vibrations
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2017
- I recently bought aftermarket wheels. After getting them installed, my car suffered from heavy vibrations (especially at the steering wheel) at about 60 mph. I did some testing and reading and learned about hub centric rings. For my car, 2005 Acura TSX with Motegi 17 inch wheels, I needed rings sized 72.6mm - 64.1mm. Using hub centric rings drastically reduced vibrations at freeway speeds.
At 1:59 in the video I am identifying which part of the wheel is the inner bore of the wheel, and the stock wheel measures 64.1mm in diameter. At 2:12 I am identifying where the wheel hub size is measured from, and it measures 64.1mm in diameter. At 3:27 I mention how to find the right aftermarket ring sizes online. In your search you will put (larger number) to (smaller number) so my search was "72.6 to 64.1"
With plastic rings fit snug, but the aluminum rings will last longer.
If a basic wheel balance does not fix the vibrations, try a shop that has a Hunter Roadforce Wheel Balancer. www.tirerack.com/installer/In... Check the "Road Force Balance" box.
If you did ALL the steps in the video, installed the rings, and you're still getting vibrations, check the following: bad tires such as bulges and obvious uneven wear (brush the tread of the tire with your hand, can also check by rotating tires), check for dents on your wheels, check for leaking shocks and broken springs, and lastly you want to check your axles. If you need to replace your Axles, read the review the reviews before buying aftermarket because some aftermarket axles still produce vibrations.
To find your car's wheel hub size you can look here:
www.wheelsupport.com/honda-bol...
To find your wheel bore size, do a google for the manufacturer of the wheels and size of wheels.
***Update Jan 2018 - The aluminum rings hold up better than the plastic rings. For my application, I went with the 72.6mm aluminum rings.
Other TSX INFO on my google drive - drive.google.com/drive/folder...
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Awesome video!! That's what i need
I noticed my front rings are no longer snug. That's probably cause the front suspension gets the most beating from the road and the rings I used are plastic. Im going to try some snug aluminum rings and see if they hold up better to the roads.
Miguel Chavez did you notice that they weren't snug because it started vibrating again? Or was it because you happened to take the wheel off? Maybe the heat morphed them
Brian, Yes I noticed the car started to vibrate a lil more at about 60mph. Not as much as when I didn't have the rings, but certainly noticeable compared to the OEM wheels. So I already suspected the rings were not holding up, but when I took the wheel off it was confirmed the rings were no longer snug. I agree, the front brakes do about 75% of the braking power and the heat build up probably morphed them combined with the beatings from the road at freeway speeds.
Gracias carnal solucione el problema
De nada! Los rings de plastico se los acaban un poco las llantas de enfrente. Compre unos de aluminio para ver si duran mas. La neta es que no hay nada como la medida de los rines originales.
Miguel Chavez gracias por la informacion
Just a quick correction, the diameter of the center bore of your rim is the outer diameter and the diameter of the wheel hub is the inner diameter. The reason being is when you mount the aftermarket rim to the wheel hub the center bore is bigger than the diameter of the hub. Making the wheel hub the ID and rim the OD. Try to visualize it.
It can be confusing. Not sure what part of the video you are referring to. So at 1:59 I am referring to the stock car parts not the aftermarket rings themselves (just yet). I am identifying which part of the wheel is the inner bore of the wheel, for which stock measures 64.1mm. At 2:12 I am identifying where the wheel hub diameter is measured from and it measures 64.1mm. At 3:27 I mention how to find the right ring sizes online, but I did not specify what measurement goes with the hub ring outer diameter and what measurement goes with the hub ring inner diameter because this can confuse people. So I kept it simple...you just need to get your two measurements (wheel bore diameter & wheel hub diameter) and the largest goes first in the search, such as "72.6 to 64.1". We are both correct, I just decided to omit discussing the OD and ID of the ring itself.
I recently replaced my stock 16inch alloy and tyres with 17inch aftermarket alloy and 17size tyres, and had same hell vibration at 80kmph then i got centre hub rings and the problem got solved,after few days I noticed running at 120kmph i have a very little stearing vibration now what to do??? Is that wheel balance?? Or still wheel is not at centre??
The centre hub rings are probably not part of the new problem. Next step would be to get a wheel balance on all four wheels. If you continue to have vibrations at 120kmph then I would look into suspension components. Check ball joints, check tie rods. If ball joints and tie rods are good, then it might be a worn rack and pinion. I have that same issue right now, still have the same car with the same wheels. I have checked and replaced all worn suspension components. The last thing to do is to replace my rack and pinion. My TSX is about 16 years old with the original rack and pinion, so its very likely worn out. It's a hell of a job too.
Its a one month old car I don't think it has any other issue rather than centre hub ring and wheel balancing,the stock had 205/55 17r and i am using bit oversized tyres now it has 215/60 r17
@@FLY_WD_RAGHIL Interesting. If the (high speed) wheel balance doesn't work, I would put back the OEM tires and wheels to see if the vibrations go away. If it goes away the issue lies with the aftermarket tires or wheels.
@@ChavezDIY agreed with your point,my next step is to balance all 4 wheel again,and check if it doesn't works then i ill change the rim to new skoda kushaq top varient alloy and put back same tyres and test again if it does again am gonaa change the tyres to 205/55 r17 as suggested by the skoda,my car has two variants the most expensive has 17inch alloy with 205/55 R17 tyres on it,and the version i own comes with 16inch alloy with 205/60 R16.
and you also need a conical lug nuts for aftermarket rims. do not use oem lugs for aftermarket wheels and vice versa.
That's right, thanks for pointing that out. I learned that the hard way. When I first bought my new aftermarket wheels I couldn't mount them because I had just learned I needed conical lugs. Vice versa is true as well. I tossed my OEM lugs when I got the aftermarket wheels installed. Now that I am refinishing the OEM wheels, I realized I had to purchase some new round type of lugs, haha.
Did you by chance have any wheel wobble? I put after market wheels on my car and the wheels started wobbling and if so did this fix it ?
I had wheel vibrations at freeway speeds, wobble sounds very similar. I didn't know that I needed hub centric rings with aftermarket wheels, but yes, after I used hub centric rings it did go away. If you don't have the rings for your wheels, you need to get them. If you still experience wobble after after getting the rings installed, I would look into an issue with wheel balance, but you probably already got a wheel balance. If you still get wobble/vibrations after getting a wheel balance, try a shop with a Hunter roadforce wheel balancer, its also known as a high speed wheel balancer and the machine can request the technician to turn the tire on the wheel to properly balance it. www.tirerack.com/installer/Installer.jsp Check the "Road Force Balance" box.
@@ChavezDIY yes I already got a wheel balance but still the same I ordered the hub centric rings and hopefully that fixed I really hope it’s not a bent rim or even tire since I bought them used
Fixes it**
Hey tony did the hub centric worked?
@@tonyborja7883????
I am almost 100% positive this is what’s happening to my tsx to. I am just so confused how I am supposed to get the right ring. The hub bore of my rims are 73.10 so what size would I need?
Edit- I just orders some aluminum ones I am pretty sure that I needed 73.10-64.1 so that’s the size I got I will let you know if they work.
I hope it works out for you. I didn't even know I would have to deal with spacers by getting aftermarket wheels. I also gotta carry my wheel lock key everywhere I go. Aftermarket wheels look cool but they require more maintenance than OEM wheels. I plan to go back to my OEM wheels after my current tires wear out.
@@ChavezDIYI will let you know if they work out. Do you have a video on how to remove the tsx headers? I wanted to put some plm headers on my tsx but I would like to have an idea before I do it.
I don't have a video on the removal of the stock headers. The bolts to remove are all visible. Soak all the bolts with (PB) Blaster before removing them. My biggest mistake was not keeping the stock headers, I gave them away. After I had a lot of cracks on the aftermarket DC sports headers and multiple flex pipe replacements (due to scraping from dropping the car), I decided to go back to stock and I had to buy the stock headers on eBay. I'm very happy going back to stock headers.
@@ChavezDIY 👍 sounds good I will look for some videos. Would you say it was difficult or somewhere in the middle? I don’t think I will have problems with the plm headers because my tsx would basically be straight piped if I put them on. It doesn’t have a cat or flex pipe on the headers. I have a Yonaka cat back so it would sound really good with the headers.
@@ChavezDIY did you put some on the back? I just put 2 in the front
Question... I own a TSX as well. I've installed these rings and still get vibration... I have some Infiniti Q50 wheels on mine...
I currently have the same issue as you. I've been working on this issue for months trying to narrow down the problem. It's starting to narrow down to the axles or tires for me. Its incredibly frustrating though. Before you start spending money on suspension components, I recommend to find a shop that has a Hunter Roadforce Wheel balancer. Tire Rack has a listing of shops that have those machines, www.tirerack.com/installer/Installer.jsp I plan to make a video about this issue once I kill the vibration problem. I rebuilt my OEM axle (with TSX OEM parts from an LKQ salvage yard) on passenger side and decided to go with a Raxle on the driver side, but I found that after a few months the Raxle axle is binding on the outer cv joint so I need to replace that. I paid $326 for that Raxle axle and now its damaged, that's poor quality control IMO.
@@ChavezDIY damn that's rough. I work for a Honda Dealership and my techs tell me I might have gotten tires with flat spots or the likes cause the kind of vibration Im getting doesn't fit into bearings or tie rods according to them. Im gonna try rotating my tires to see if it has any impact...
@@eshbanvelez5212 There are a number of possibilities. If you have a tire with flat spots or a tread belt tearing from the inside, a tire rotation should address it. Sometimes the tires have more weight on one side and the Roadforce wheel balance takes care of it as the machine can tell the tech to unbead the tire and rotate it on the wheel. If that doesn't work, you'll need to look into your CV axles.
@@ChavezDIY tire rotation I did and found out some unusual wear on two tires. They were sold to me with the wheels as "new" tires and they look the part but seems like the previous car wasn't aligned properly and caused some uneven wear. Did that and took a tiny bit of air out of the tire out. I'll be driving in about an hour so I'll update later if that works for me. Thanks
So turns out my issue was indeed tire related. After the rotation and inspection of each tire I put the two tires with the weird wear on the back and now my vibration is only in the back side of the car. I guess they were bouncing each other off and that's why my car felt like it was falling apart. I was very hesitant to believe the tires were the problem.