HOW-TO Re-Seal The Engine Block On A Stihl 4-MIX BR500 | BR550 | BR600 Leaf Blower
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- Опубликовано: 25 апр 2018
- HOW-TO Re-Seal The Engine Block On A Stihl 4-MIX BR500 | BR550 | BR600 Leaf Blower
In this video I show you how to re-seal the engine block on a Stihl Br500-600 leaf blower.
Some symptoms that may indicate that you need to do this repair are that your machine may be hard to start, it may bog when throttling up and may lack power.
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It is a good idea to check your carburetor first for defects before attempting this repair.
Crank seals are part #9639 003 1584
Sealant used is "DIRKO"
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) videos to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, zero turn mower, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
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Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, hand tools, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor".
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You have the best . channel hands down for helping out small time buisness owners ..like me I. N the feild.thank you ..my comments i shut off months ago for other reasons ..apologize if missed any responses.was tired of trting to block attacks from other channels ..when I block them they still come in?some have no I.d. and it's to much
Have to do the crank seals on my FS90R. Great video thanks
You should have a new channel called "Fingerpainting with Dony". Love this detail of work. Thank you.
Great video. I usually pull the crank and piston right out of there. Its so simple to take out and put back in. The cylinder is shaped so the rings are compressed as you push piston back in. It takes 2 seconds. It makes cleaning the old gasket so much easier and you don't get junk in the bearings by mistake. I use brake cleaner with a soft bristle wire brush to get the old gasket off. If any old gasket falls into the cylinder, It easy to get out of there.
he was concerned about the timing of the valves on this 4mix motor...
how do you make sure you are not changing the timing?
Best part is no Pins in the ring slot. Its just plop it in. I do prefer the Husqvarna cylinder has a slight chamfer On the base assy so whole lot just slides in like butter.
Donny. I commented to you regarding the engine pulley on my lawn tractor a couple of days ago. I wanted to scuff up the pulley and you recommended getting a new one. Good news. My parts store was able to order one for me. Amazing. A twenty to thirty year old tractor and I can still get new parts. Thanks for the advice.
I am impressed with your videos. You do a great job, Thank you for giving me the courage to do my repairs myself.
I've done this myself, but wonderful video as always. thanks for all your hard work.
One thing to mention for those who are new to this sort of thing- engine innards are usually exceedingly sharp.
Very nice work Dony. Have a great weekend!
WOW !!! That makes so much sense...I've had to re torq heads be for but never that !!! Wow !! Learn something new time I watch your videos...thank you.. CHEERS 🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you for the info/tips. Great job Donny
I personally wouldn’t use sandpaper to clean mating surfaces especially on the block side, I’m sure any chance of getting grit into the internal block could cause a great amount of damage. I use a scouring pad or scotch bright to remove old gasket material. WD/40 works well as a cleaner I’ve found and it keeps solvents from getting into the bearing areas of the engine.
Agreed. I like to use a clean, fine stainless steel wire brush carefully by hand with some acetone to help clean things as I go. No disintegrating sand paper creating grit, no bristles falling into the engine. Also I found it easier to simply remove the crankshaft/piston assembly to remove any nasty bits that may have fallen into the engine or place a wad of rag in the engine to catch any bits of old silicone seal. The subsequent correct re-positioning and timing of the crankshaft is easy. There are videos elsewhere on RUclips explaining this.
I am mindful of this - good quality tools in good condition used carefully are the way to go. Also I like to use the brush in a "sweeping away" action so bits don't fall into the engine 👍🏻🙂
The wire wheel on the bench grinder was the most "cringe worthy" thing for me. A wire wheel can erode away aluminum very quickly, leaving gaps in the mating surfaces.
I like the way you rebuilt that engine and got it running correctly.
Great video!!! More repair videos like this would be awesome! Keep up the great work!!!!
So I don't strip the threads, I like to start the screws in by hand by turning them counter clockwise until they drop into the old thread then turn clockwise to make sure they're in the old threads before I use the power tool to torque them to specs.
So I don't come off as a tool bag in the comment section I try to stay away from knit picking the best damn small engine mechanic on youtube.
That was a well said and informative comment which I also do to avoid the possibility of crossthreading a fastener. I didn't see it as a negative comment at all.
d hamby m
~
Me either Brotha Donyboy wont either
It’s all about experience and knowing your tools. Guess what fellas? When the cameras aren’t on he will not bring out a torque wrench for every single bolt. The horror!
Cross threads are way better then locktite. Lol
Interesting engine, really like the engine work video. Also really nice filming. Thanks.
That was brilliant so well explained thank you
Thanks for the brilliant video 👍😊
Great video Don. One other thing I find on these is the CAM can jump time on the crank shaft. Maybe another good video would be to show to how reset the the CAM timing on these engines. 👍
Great video as usual. So thorough and great footage!
how's it going eric
donyboy73 im doing well Don. Love your channel! Keep em coming!
Muy buena gracias maestro
Hi Donyboy, is there a difference between Dirko HT and Permatex Red RTV High Temp? I recently resealed a Stihl 025 with the permatex stuff and she's holding pressure and vaccum real well but you always use Dirko. Is it just your preference or have you seen the Dirko HT stuff outlast other gasket makers? Btw, long time subscriber and I love all your videos...easily the best small engine repair channel on youtube by far.
Great informative video thank you very much. Can I just ask i have removed the cam cover as there were bits of piston in there that had to be removed but I am not sure if when re assembling if the position of the cam and crank have to be timed set up in a certain position. thanks again Keep up the great content.
Great video but could you please do a video for a engine leak test for a Stihl BR600, as I’m not sure on the pressure to put inside and where the piston should be.
Many thanks
Neil
Very nice repairing
Thanks for the video.
Finger tight bolts for ONE hour. Let a fat rubber piece develop. THEN torque bolts so it squeezes the rubber seal. You don’t wanna smash it all out when it’s really wet. Great video!
good tip
Thanks for great video
Thanks Don Great video.
Good job Don.
It was oddly satisfying to hear your clock in the background 👌
Your videos are great donyboy
great repair...
You really make great videos
Great video. How does the fuel get down to the bottom end to lubricate?
Great job nice and though 👍🏻
Thank you
Need to do this to my machine
I love the sound of those motors. 4mix engines sound so different compared to a 2 stroke
To each their own, I personally cant stand the sound. It sounds like 4 stroke with an exhaust leak.
4ceof5pades solution to the problem, wear ear protection 😂
Dony I dont like that sandpaper around the internal engine parts mate
Also, using that grinder w/wire wheel on that soft alloy! NO!!!! Use the Roloc blue disc.
Wish I could post a pic. Got one of a exhaust valve in a BR600 stuck in the top of the piston. Owner said he had it full throttle and it just stopped. Said it damn near jumped off of his back. Exhaust valve broke and got stuck sideways in the top of the piston. Put a new long block in it under warranty.
Sub earned off of this video. Very good info!
it is not hard to do but i will do it next spring on my trimmer
never ever use sandpaper to clean partly assembled engine. Never use wire wheel to clean an aluminum case
Thanks buddy.
I have a BR600. That's a lot of work. Equivalent in scale perhaps to replacing a car's rear main seal; ie, tiny parts price, huge labor. I mean, you didn't film removing the motor which is no simple and quick task by any means. Gonna check mine for leakage issues as you pointed out. If this is a common issue then boo to Stihl because the blower is very expensive. Also agree wholeheartedly with DennyRice; why not a gasket, Stihl? Thanks Don for such a clear video on how to fix it should it occur.
yes it is a common repair on these. i'll try and make a video on removing the block from machine
Disassembling the engine on the br500/600 is a huge pain because all the plastics have to come apart to get at the cylinder screws, which means the fan/impeller has to come off which can be stuck on even when using an impact wrench
ghetto bikelife after I did it once it took me about 15 min to remove the whole engine the pain it the fan
How do I replace Briggs starter clutch on riding mowrr? Thanks for reply.
Is there a website where you get your specifications? Like how much torque it needs and stuff?
Which do you think is best for re-reading a crankcase on a Stihl Chainsaw? Three Bond 1184 or Disko Red?
Thanks for the video. Do you have any video's on the new small engine EFI systems? I have a small engine shop and have not had any experience on them. Hoping you have some info. Thanks
not yet
Donnie , did you find any info on why you have to use the Dirko ? I could NOT. So I used "RIGHT STUFF" gasket maker. So far the units I have sealed have had NO issues with oil leaks and are at least 2yrs older now. The only reason for this statement is that I feel Dirko is a bad choice for sealant. I have handhelds leak at a year old or so. So why put the same sealant that FAILED the first time. Hope to see more 4mix videos !!! :)
I thought the same thing. I always use a sealant from Yamaha that is used to seal case halves on dirtbikes but Suzuki and Honda make their own too. I have never had a failure with that stuff and my bikes have been together for 8+ years. Also Mercedes uses a sealant for a head gasket. A friend of mine gave me a tube of it and swears by it, he's a Mercedes tech. I haven't tried it but if it works for a head gasket I imagine it will seal anything and hold up for a while.
Hi Donyboy Love your chanell. Can you confirm it is 9 foot pound torque to crankcase cover not inch pound please and cam cover is 3 inch pounds. Thanks Clifford’s
Have a FS110 weed trimmer with a cam wheel that broke apart inside the casing and jammed. Bought a new cam wheel and hope to get it running when reassembled... The metal plate on the back side of the cam wheel was bunched into a ball and the hook shaped piece that spins and covers an ooening to the crank shaft were loose or wedged around the broken gears. It looks like it might have scratched up the casing and may have elongated the hole in the casing for the cam wheel pin... Anything to look out for when the cam wheel arrives? Isnit likely I'll have to replace the whole block casing? Not sure it will be worth buying more parts... Thanks!
Is this from a standpoint able to be modified like milling the cylinder head porting etc? For rc car use
Another fantastic use for Mercury power tune is for fuel line or hoses. If you can't get a hose off, just insert a small pick in between the hose and the fitting and give it a small shot of power tune. The hose will slide right off. A little shot inside the hose you're installing and it will go on with ease. it'll make it so slick you can stretch a gnats ass over a telephone pole!
Great video Donny!! Do you prefer the Loctite paste to the liquid? I have only seen the liquid, and it can get pretty messy.
yes i prefer the paste much better!
Brother ! Can u make a video how to adjust gear timing of 4mix please ??
thx don
A engine pan on a fs90 looks infront of me has some of it eaten away in the center bottom as if possibbly water entered it. The carb, seals and piston are obviously done for. Any idea how to get the timing right as well as its valves. They had attempted tuning the valves and that was a failure. Looks like I currently have all the tools u used excluding adjustable torque wrench. I can borrow one but it maxes at 150 lbs and starts at 15 lbs. I also have a br500 parts blower i know has leaky seals and only runs choked. I think that's all but I cant be 100% as of now. Just a few projects I've been tinkering with when I can. Ur impact looks somewhat similar to the one I got and like. Its m18 2750-20 with multiple size batteries I can swap on. I had to use a fresh 5 amp or a 9 amp HD on a 77 Chevy pickup for the 1st time a few months ago. I also want to split the case on a ts400 I have that needs bearings and seals 1st before the water kit, blade, belt and feet r replaced. The tilly carb and top end were beat too. Got a new oem carb for 30 from someone who ordered the wrong one and never looked at it till it was to late. Got the jug but the only piston and rings I have on hand for it are hutz brand. Ts400 is cleaned up and sitting in pieces wrapped with saran and piecesml of Terry cloth. Got a old 3 point coil so I think it's been shelved a while now. Warm Compression was under 65lbs running wot only. If u can lmk anything i should have on hand to help split the case as well as to put it back together. No press or splitter in my stuff yet. Do u think I can skip purchasing those for now or would I be just asking for more problems. I never split anything close to this size and currently am putting it off. Any advice is always appreciated and if that's asking to much I am still very thankful to be able to use ur channel. Without Utubers like u I'd be pretty much s.o.l. Thanks and please keep on doing what u have already been doing. U have helped a few friends I told to check ur tutorials out too. Ur helps always been amazing and without the extra talk most other videos are full of
hello, good video. I shifted the engine and I don't see any setting point apart from the 2 arrows which must be aligned on the joint plane I think, and for the crankshaft I don't see anything can you help me? Thanks
Hey Don, I have a problem with my mower and was hoping you can help me. It is a relatively new troy bilt push mower and I'm having this problem where it is idling a bit rough and it has trouble cutting any slightly taller grass, I cleaned out the carb already and the fuel is fresh, what could the issue be?
Just took one apart due to exhaust valve stuck. How do I determine timing is right when I re assemble?
Hey Don, good stuff, sure looks tedious! Have you ever tried a "plastic razor blade" for scraping off the old RTV? I picked up some online for other purposes, seems like it might work.
rpavlik1 a wire wheel or brush works good
I'd like a better look at that piston stop tool. Does it have a rubber top on the end that goes into the cylinder. Do they make one for Honda mowers with a blade brake so you can remove the center bolt without an impact. Or is there another way to do it. Thanks.
That's a Stihl service tool.
You'd have to find a Honda engine service manual and see if they spec one to get the part #. Might be cheaper to buy an impact wrench than get a tool like that from Honda! But if there is one and you can get the part# for it, then maybe you can find an aftermarket one.
Could plugged spark arrestor cause the crank seals to blow?
Good video…
Hi ! How much would be the torque of the stilh FS 90 R ?
Good a one
I watch u video dony nice
I have a weed eater fS100RX change the carburetor new looks like they'running but don't start any clue what's wrong with
I have an ms390 that I got not running after it was straight gassed. I replaced the longblock with one with good reviews from Bailey's. The saw starts and runs fine but once it gets hot it looses power bogs and eventually dies and won't restart. If I give it some ether it will start up but bog and die again. I've gone through the carb a few times and it's working properly. Could this be the seal like this br500? they have a similar bottom end design.
Have you checked the spark arrestor screen inside the muffler?? I just had a chainsaw in the shop last week exhibiting those same symptoms. After checking the carburetor was set correctly, I decided to check the screen just for grins and giggles. Guess what....almost completely blocked. Burned it out, reinstalled and watched a smile come to my customer’s face. Ten minute fix while he waited.
Dony, I have been watching you for almost 5years. what I can say is you are the doctor of all these small machines.
Makes for a nice snowblower
HONDA BOND best sealer I ever used for mating halves. I let it sit over night to completely seal. Get it at any honda dealer.
Is it necessary to use dirko or could you use something like permatex motoseal? The dirko is expensive and I don’t see why you would use the same sealer that failed.
THAT WAS MY REPLY. IF IT HAS FAILED ONCE WHY NOT TRY A DIFFERENT SEALER
can you tell me what the ring end gap is on the br600?
Thanks for the vid, however, if “Dirko” is such good stuff, why are you resealing the engine?!? And why is this a common problem? Why wouldnt they just use gaskets?
Those bottom pan screws seem to always loosen up on all the 4 mix engines. They need Loctite reapplied and tightening every year.
I just bought the stihl br800x this week. Trying it out this weekend. Donyboy73 do you recommend these leaf blowers made by stihl?
i recommend echo and husqvarna 2 strokes
@@donyboy73 why not stihl 🤷🏻♂️??
@@donyboy73 can you make a video of what happens when you use regular gasoline inside these engines instead of the 50:1 mix gasoline/ oil. Guy on Craigslist selling a backpack blower that used regular gas. Should I run or grab it. Only for parts he said. Maybe easy fix like fuel filter?
Smashing repair :-D
I used to use an old product called "Gasket Goo" , it wasnt expensive but it worked well.
Hylomar and Hermetite didn't seem bad eather :-D
zx8401ztv hylomar (or the generic permatex equivalent) is awesome stuff (helped the new head gasket on my snowblower make the engine run like new, first pull or second if I left it all summer with gas in it accidentally) , but I only use it to improve sealing where there is already a gasket (or where one isn't needed but sealing would help), not instead of a gasket. It's labeled "gasket sealer" - I assumed that meant you had to have a gasket already for it to work, and that it wasn't a substitute for fiber or RTV (like that dirko dony used). Do I have it wrong? Can I use that in place of my "ultra black" RTV?
It sounds like you had the right idea, i use gasket plus hylomar together too.
it fills the tiny errors/voids between the gasket to metal surface, made the fit much closer.
I liked the old "gasket goo" because it set like a dusty filler, but it was easy enough to scrape off without using too much force.
It was odd stuff, not rubbery.
Alas it was years ago, so it may not be made any more.
zx8401ztv hylomar is much easier to deal with once you discover it's soluble in normal isopropyl alcohol...
Nice job..
I have a Briggs engine that over revs . All linkages are freely moving but the throttle control does not alter the revs. When running I tweek the governor arm and this does nothing. Do you think it’s a carb problem or a governor problem.
Regards.
Kev
kevancroftkc sounds like governor came apart inside motor, had an 18.5 b&s do that to me
I was wondering the history of this blower (many, many hours/years of use?) to know why those seals leaked at all using the Stihl original sealant. Seems that if the bolts haven't loosened (and they shouldn't from the factory), there should NOT be any leaks (unless dropped, or similar of course.) I echo the other person's opinion to use something else/better (have heard excellent reports on that Right Stuff).
Also, can you explain a 4 stroke engine that uses gas/oil mix for fuel? WHY, I guess is the question. Thanks.
RichE
Gogle Plus Sucks the 4 stroke design gives more torque to a conventional 2 stroke and possibly for emissions ? I’m not too sure but as for the need to re-seal I have worked several needing to be resealed and from talking to others seem something that has to be done at some point in its life possibly a down side to the design of engine ? I use a fs90r with the 4 mix engine and by far better than any 2 stroke I’ve ever used power wise but many are put off by the engine not can get abit annoying after awhile
What is the part # of the torque wrench you used sir.
whats a good alternative to the dirko i have some permatex max torque hightemp
I also use hondabond
i watched a video about permatex they say have permatex moto seal and permetex permashield fuel resistant still not sure which one would be the one
cool i ended up buying the dirko had to buy it online what tool do i need to pressure test the stihl km131 r anyway i cant find anything or do you just have to make one somehow
Hay i have a stihl br 550 and it was full of water i took it to the dealer and they said the engine needs rebuilt and it has no compresion and that would cost me 3to $400 dollars but im wondering if i can rebuild it myself and what parts and tools dobi need
OR Greens you need a new blower. There's pin bearings and ball bearings hooked up to the crankshaft if it was flooded with water it probably rusted the crankshaft assembly and bearings.
We have a four cycle machine in at work that will idle but won't rev up at all. We have fitted a new carb but no difference, removed exhaust no difference. Could this be a leak as in your video.
Hi Andy did you get the machine to rev up? I am having the same issue. However if I let it warm up for 10 min it will come to life and work perfect. I am thinking it has to do with the auto decompression mechanism under the cam wheel.
What if i use Honda bond ht sealant?
The 4 stroke Stihl engines appear to be far better built than the 2 stroke engines as the 5mm self tapping screws on the 2 stroke engines seem to be only good for 1 use then the threads strip out in the cylinder.
I modified a Stihl 2 stroke hedge trimmer to accept M304 6 × 1 mm stainless steel bolts for the cylinder as the bolt holes in the aftermarket cylinder were too big for the 5mm screws.
The same went for the clutch which fell apart when the self tapping screws worked themselves loose,I just retapped the holes & fitted the 6mm screws.
I'm not sure what's going on with the 4 stroke lawn equipment such as the line trimmers & leaf blowers as Ryobi used to make them but seem to have reverted back to using 2 stroke engines.
My Dad has a range of Honda 4 stroke lawn equipment such as the push mower, line trimmer, hedge trimmer & leaf blower.
I did a bit of work on the line trimmer which gave symptoms of bad fuel delivery, so I cleaned the fuel tank & carby out then replaced the fuel filter.
It actually ended up being a faulty spark plug which caused a seemingly lean & bad running condition.
The reason they went back to 3 strokes is the plastic cam. The only part you can not get. They get hot ant it turns the lobes on the cam round so now the valves don't work. A plastic cam. OMG give me a break.
Is this your blower? If so can you do a review on it?
Were is best place cyl and piston at
I rather buy new one it takes to long to do all that
But thanks for your nice video
Will this procedure work for the 4mix weed eater engines from stihl?
yes similar but different
PA LAWN GUY. Dony if you would like more sealing protection, order crankcase silk thread from Teledyne Continental Motors (an aircraft engine manufacture). The thread is about .040 thousands and is embedded in the sealant and is run on the inside of the case boltholes and terminated about 1/2 inch hanging into the seal cavities. The thread is compressed slightly into the aluminum about .001 inches on both haves and is compressed to about .005 of an inch between the halves and makes a great oil bearior. The thread only goes on one half of the case parting surface. A spool will last you a lifetime and is very reasonable ( I do not remember the specific cost).
sounds like good stuff
I thought that I needed to drug test myself when i adjusted the valves but couldn't find the spot to check crankcase oil. Technology, its crazy
TheShockLoad wait you’re joking about the crankcase oil right?
Why does the engine pan have a groove that looks like it takes some kind of gasket?
I would NEVER, under any circumstances, use a wire wheel on machined aluminum mating surfaces!!!! There's no quicker way to erode away enough aluminum to leave gaps, and cause the cover to not align properly, than with a powered stainless steel wire brush. Using sand paper by hand is bad enough.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
How does the durko compare to red rtv?
FishFind3000 from using it myself dirko you can start the machine as soon as you build it back up and unless a stupid amount is used it doesn’t squeeze out everywhere when the two cases meet possibly going into the engine like regular rtv and it’s very sticky straight from the tube
i would use ultra gray rtv. the old rtv already leaked once why reuse it ?
Permatex doesn't recommend the Ultra Gray to be used around gasoline. They do make 2 products called MotoSeal and PermaSheild that would work.
Shouldn't it need more oil? At least the wrist pin and bearings? I don't know why there is barely any oil in the crank case. I wouldn't risk that the 2 stroke gas would keep the wrist pin lubed enough not to seize, cause that's what happened.