Well spotted Daniel, No I haven’t had any issue with the tool post moving, I just lock it down really tight. The only downside is not having a reference for squaring the tool post when moved. I looked at drilling the spring detention but the body of the tool post is hardened so didn’t have much luck.
Hey where did you get the quick change toolpost from? Im about to buy this exact lathe, and the only thing holding me back is that I havent been able to fond a QC toolpost that can be made to fit. otherwise, thanks for a really good, really informative video, best video I have found anywhere about this lathe - thank you!
Thanks Tim, it’s a 250-111 that I purchased from AliExpress, it came as a set with a some tool holders. Please note that it did need modifying to fit the top slide of the lathe.
@@SS-Workshop modifying stuff is life! thanks for the reply, great to see content creators still have time for viewers even months after releasing stuff!
@@SS-Workshop i just have another question, do you have a link to the seller? Im looking and I see a 250-000 and a 250-111 version of the QCTP, not sure what the difference is between them?
@@tigertim20 sorry no link it was a few years since I purchased. The second part of the number of the number is the size so a 250-000 is smaller and a 250-200 is larger. What your looking for if you want the same size as mine is a 250-100 series. The 250-111 is the wedge style tool post body there is also a piston type which some say isn’t as ridged (I think the part number as 250-100 for this). All the compatible parts / holders for the 100 size have the second number start with a 1. Another good thing to know is these are a clone of the aloris tool posts and from recollection they call the 100 series AXA size, so you will also see them listed under AXA tool posts from time to time. Hope this helps, good luck.
Hi Bob, the 200-100 is the same size, the only difference is it’s the piston type clamp vs the wedge type clamp. Both are 100 series so should work from a size point of view. Both use the same holders. The only thing that is unknown to me is how they are built and if increasing the inside bore could be done the same way as I did if that’s what your planning. I hope this helps, good luck.
Hi, good quick overview of your lathe your setup is well though out, can you give me any idea where you picked up the lead screw cover and what it is called, i have the same lathe, Thanks
Hi Don, I got it from AliExpress a few years ago, just had a look and found one under, conical spiral steel tape telescopic spring shield covers, s.aliexpress.com/JfyeIZbq I checked mine was about 45mm at big end and 30mm at small end. You can cut the length down with snips and I made a male and female socket at either end to keep it in place.
Great video. Lots of ideas for my shop :) I've got this one on the way, including the attached mill (20M). I'm trying to figure out which vice to get that will fit the cross slide, since the lathe and mill share it. Could you tell me what what size the slots are, and what distance they are apart? It may be safer for me to wait until it gets here before buying the vice. I've been eyeing up the anglock vertex VA-4 (if it fits - without the rotating base).
Thanks, great to hear and congratulations on your purchase it’s a great choice for a lathe. At a quick measure the T slots are 10mm and 100mm centre to centre but would be a good idea to wait until you see it. It might be worth checking the max weight the cross slide table will take as i know even on my benchtop mill I only just made it within capacity. You should also consider having having a hex key positioned in the carriage lock so you can control the table movement. I previously had another type of combined machine that was a similar size and that ran a much smaller vice about 50mm, you could consider a small toolmakers vice as an alternative as they are lighter and smaller. (By the way I have a video for making the hold down clamps for a tool makers vice if you head that way). Would be interested to hear how it performs as a mill, good luck.
Hi Jonas, they need to match the leadscrew on your lathe so haven’t seen them sold separately. You can thread without, you just stop the lathe and leave the carriage engaged then reverse it and go again without disengaging the carriage.
@@SS-Workshop thank you. I know that i can thread without when leaving the nut locked. But where is yours from?? I want to buy the same machine new, but it is not included.. :(
Good evening, buy a very similar lathe, I turn it on but the motor does not rotate, the screen lights up but nothing to give the motor that can be, I thank you for your help, Greetings. Antonio
Hi Antonio, one thing to check is if your machine has a micro switches on the chuck guard and motor cover. If they are not shut they won’t run. Another one I have been caught out on is the mechanical red stop button that is seperate to the on /off switch as when pushed they stay off until you lift them. Good luck, hope this helps.
Thanks. I 3D printed the holders from ABS plastic myself, I have seen a few people use metal or timber with various designs but I had the 3D printer and was looking for a project. There are several designs on Thingiverse if you search “lathe tool holders” but there is not to much to them so I modelled my own and once I had a good fit with a test one I made a pile of them. They have stood up pretty well, I have been using them for a couple of years now and only had a one break.
Another great video, we have the same lathe but cannot find a faceplate for it! Where did you get yours? How does it fit? Where can you get 20mm plus ER 32 collets from? Thanks
Thanks, my faceplate is one for a similar sized sieg as a local supplier stocked them. I had to change to threaded studs rather than their cam lock studs and machined the register on it to fit. I found the oversized collets on Aliexpress.
The stud on the top slide remained unchanged. what I did was replace the inner sleeve of the tool post with one I turned that fits over the step at the base of the stud. This avoided the method I found online of turning that step down which cant be reversed back to original. So basically my method was to modify cheap tool post rather than expensive lathe.
@@SS-Workshop Strange.. I just picked up a 2506 and the stud is way to short to stick out the top of the tool post. Even after dealing with the step at the base.
Yes strange, what size tool post is it? Mine is the 100 series, Just thinking it might be the next size up you have. From memory the stud didn’t look easy to change out so only other thing I can think of would be to thread an extension on to the stud but that would probably require it to be way short.
Thanks, the DRO took a bit of fitting but it’s the same with any lathe, I have my cross slide scale located standing out the rear with an A frame I made up, fixed to the back of it as I didn’t want to restrict the tail stock travel which is a little short at times. But the cross slide scale could also be fixed on the side as most people do. The long scale is located behind the machine and just needed some spacers and a couple of holes drilled. As far a capability it’s good nice and accurate, would be fine with small cast iron castings, just be careful to keep the ways clean of the cast iron dust. The only other think to note is it’s short of torque at very low speeds. If you want to see more of it’s capability see some of my other videos in which I have been making parts for my steam locomotive.
I picked mine up from Amazon US, actually have a couple of them with different spouts, the one I like most for oiling machines has a solid spout which is better for oiling ports. GOLDENROD (625) Pistol Pump Oiler with Straight Spout - 10 oz. Capacity www.amazon.com/dp/B000VA93MK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tau_S903EbF792EAW
I am looking to getting one of these (exact model to be far) just for hobby and playing around with small projects making my steampunk stuff and other stuff... lol as my channel is mainly wood working so I don't/won't need a big metal turning lathe... What part on Kiwi-land are you in... also PM me or send us your address and will send some stickers for your workshop.
Great to hear mine has served me well. I started into metal work machining for a few parts to add to my woodwork projects and got hooked so that’s how it starts. Im in the Hutt Valley.
I have had this lathe for a couple of years and it has been very reliable. It’s well built and has may features that are not seen on some other bench top lathes such as the quick locking handle for the tail stock. One thing to note is because it’s got electronic variable speed it lacks torque at low speeds. This is the same with any variable speed lathe of the size. I must say it’s very convenient to be able to adjust the speed even when turning. Hope this helps with your decision.
![Oasis - Oasis Live '25 [Official Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gol_JnuEtKM/mqdefault.jpg)
This is at the top of a list of three lathes I'm currently considering buying.
please dont.. Ive got one and although it works kinda okay now, I needed to completely disassemble and clean it from all casting sand..
@@Tachikomaster I had sand inside? In the parts?
@@ThePionesI have the same lathe. Insides was all dirty from metal grinding dust and sandcasting sand.
@@Tachikomaster That indeed shows poor care when building this. For the price that is unacceptable.
@@ThePiones Yes, you can buy the same quality lathe cheaper from other brand names.
Quite an efficient setup you've got going on
7:03 - Five jaw chuck? I can count 6...no wonder the Aussie dollar is in front of the kiwi scheckle.. ;-)
Your right! Just making sure you paying attention, cheers
Thanks for the video.
Nice tour
are you pleased with the performance after all this time? Thank you.
Yes, it’s performs really well and I’m still really happy with it.
Do you find the quick change tool post shift under load without the spring pin locking onto the tool post?
Well spotted Daniel, No I haven’t had any issue with the tool post moving, I just lock it down really tight. The only downside is not having a reference for squaring the tool post when moved. I looked at drilling the spring detention but the body of the tool post is hardened so didn’t have much luck.
Hey where did you get the quick change toolpost from? Im about to buy this exact lathe, and the only thing holding me back is that I havent been able to fond a QC toolpost that can be made to fit. otherwise, thanks for a really good, really informative video, best video I have found anywhere about this lathe - thank you!
Thanks Tim, it’s a 250-111 that I purchased from AliExpress, it came as a set with a some tool holders. Please note that it did need modifying to fit the top slide of the lathe.
@@SS-Workshop modifying stuff is life! thanks for the reply, great to see content creators still have time for viewers even months after releasing stuff!
@@SS-Workshop i just have another question, do you have a link to the seller? Im looking and I see a 250-000 and a 250-111 version of the QCTP, not sure what the difference is between them?
@@tigertim20 sorry no link it was a few years since I purchased. The second part of the number of the number is the size so a 250-000 is smaller and a 250-200 is larger. What your looking for if you want the same size as mine is a 250-100 series. The 250-111 is the wedge style tool post body there is also a piston type which some say isn’t as ridged (I think the part number as 250-100 for this). All the compatible parts / holders for the 100 size have the second number start with a 1. Another good thing to know is these are a clone of the aloris tool posts and from recollection they call the 100 series AXA size, so you will also see them listed under AXA tool posts from time to time. Hope this helps, good luck.
Is that a six jaw chuck? Do they make 5 jaw Chuck's? Great vid mate👍🇦🇺
Thanks, 5 jaw chucks do exist mine just isn’t one of them, obviously I can’t count!
what actual quick change toolpost did you use ?, as in the number .ie 250.201 or similar ,thankyou ,great setup
Thanks Bob, it’s a 100 series tool post, number 250-111 which is the wedge type.
@@SS-Workshop would a 250-100 work? cant find a 111, thanks bob
Hi Bob, the 200-100 is the same size, the only difference is it’s the piston type clamp vs the wedge type clamp. Both are 100 series so should work from a size point of view. Both use the same holders. The only thing that is unknown to me is how they are built and if increasing the inside bore could be done the same way as I did if that’s what your planning. I hope this helps, good luck.
Hi, good quick overview of your lathe your setup is well though out, can you give me any idea where you picked up the lead screw cover and what it is called, i have the same lathe, Thanks
Hi Don, I got it from AliExpress a few years ago, just had a look and found one under, conical spiral steel tape telescopic spring shield covers, s.aliexpress.com/JfyeIZbq
I checked mine was about 45mm at big end and 30mm at small end. You can cut the length down with snips and I made a male and female socket at either end to keep it in place.
@@SS-Workshop thanks very much for the follow up. greatly appreciated
Great video. Lots of ideas for my shop :) I've got this one on the way, including the attached mill (20M). I'm trying to figure out which vice to get that will fit the cross slide, since the lathe and mill share it. Could you tell me what what size the slots are, and what distance they are apart? It may be safer for me to wait until it gets here before buying the vice. I've been eyeing up the anglock vertex VA-4 (if it fits - without the rotating base).
Thanks, great to hear and congratulations on your purchase it’s a great choice for a lathe. At a quick measure the T slots are 10mm and 100mm centre to centre but would be a good idea to wait until you see it. It might be worth checking the max weight the cross slide table will take as i know even on my benchtop mill I only just made it within capacity. You should also consider having having a hex key positioned in the carriage lock so you can control the table movement. I previously had another type of combined machine that was a similar size and that ran a much smaller vice about 50mm, you could consider a small toolmakers vice as an alternative as they are lighter and smaller. (By the way I have a video for making the hold down clamps for a tool makers vice if you head that way). Would be interested to hear how it performs as a mill, good luck.
hello, where do you have the threading gauge from? i can not find it and it is not included when buying the machine new...
Hi Jonas, they need to match the leadscrew on your lathe so haven’t seen them sold separately. You can thread without, you just stop the lathe and leave the carriage engaged then reverse it and go again without disengaging the carriage.
@@SS-Workshop thank you. I know that i can thread without when leaving the nut locked.
But where is yours from?? I want to buy the same machine new, but it is not included.. :(
@@jonask3745 mine was from Machinery House in NZ
Good evening, buy a very similar lathe, I turn it on but the motor does not rotate, the screen lights up but nothing to give the motor that can be, I thank you for your help, Greetings. Antonio
Hi Antonio, one thing to check is if your machine has a micro switches on the chuck guard and motor cover. If they are not shut they won’t run. Another one I have been caught out on is the mechanical red stop button that is seperate to the on /off switch as when pushed they stay off until you lift them. Good luck, hope this helps.
@@SS-Workshop Thank you very much for your help, I will review the micro switches, Greetings Antonio
Great vid. Where did you get your tool holder holders on your shelf? Been looking for something similiar for a while to make a rack like you have..
Thanks. I 3D printed the holders from ABS plastic myself, I have seen a few people use metal or timber with various designs but I had the 3D printer and was looking for a project. There are several designs on Thingiverse if you search “lathe tool holders” but there is not to much to them so I modelled my own and once I had a good fit with a test one I made a pile of them. They have stood up pretty well, I have been using them for a couple of years now and only had a one break.
are the years plastic or metal ?
Metal change gears but understand there is a plastic one in the system somewhere but hasn’t given me any trouble
Another great video, we have the same lathe but cannot find a faceplate for it! Where did you get yours? How does it fit? Where can you get 20mm plus ER 32 collets from? Thanks
Thanks, my faceplate is one for a similar sized sieg as a local supplier stocked them. I had to change to threaded studs rather than their cam lock studs and machined the register on it to fit. I found the oversized collets on Aliexpress.
Thanks for the video! Did you also have to make an extension for the tool post stud or did you replace the whole stud?
The stud on the top slide remained unchanged. what I did was replace the inner sleeve of the tool post with one I turned that fits over the step at the base of the stud. This avoided the method I found online of turning that step down which cant be reversed back to original. So basically my method was to modify cheap tool post rather than expensive lathe.
@@SS-Workshop Strange.. I just picked up a 2506 and the stud is way to short to stick out the top of the tool post. Even after dealing with the step at the base.
Yes strange, what size tool post is it? Mine is the 100 series, Just thinking it might be the next size up you have. From memory the stud didn’t look easy to change out so only other thing I can think of would be to thread an extension on to the stud but that would probably require it to be way short.
What are the gears made from
The change gears for threading are all metal
Very nice vid, about to buy same lathe. Was the DRO hard to fit? Does it do small cast iron castings ok?
Thanks, the DRO took a bit of fitting but it’s the same with any lathe, I have my cross slide scale located standing out the rear with an A frame I made up, fixed to the back of it as I didn’t want to restrict the tail stock travel which is a little short at times. But the cross slide scale could also be fixed on the side as most people do. The long scale is located behind the machine and just needed some spacers and a couple of holes drilled. As far a capability it’s good nice and accurate, would be fine with small cast iron castings, just be careful to keep the ways clean of the cast iron dust. The only other think to note is it’s short of torque at very low speeds. If you want to see more of it’s capability see some of my other videos in which I have been making parts for my steam locomotive.
SS Workshop thanks - will limit my build to 5” scale tank engine.
can someone link me that oiling cup thanks
I picked mine up from Amazon US, actually have a couple of them with different spouts, the one I like most for oiling machines has a solid spout which is better for oiling ports. GOLDENROD (625) Pistol Pump Oiler with Straight Spout - 10 oz. Capacity www.amazon.com/dp/B000VA93MK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tau_S903EbF792EAW
I am looking to getting one of these (exact model to be far) just for hobby and playing around with small projects making my steampunk stuff and other stuff... lol as my channel is mainly wood working so I don't/won't need a big metal turning lathe...
What part on Kiwi-land are you in... also PM me or send us your address and will send some stickers for your workshop.
Great to hear mine has served me well. I started into metal work machining for a few parts to add to my woodwork projects and got hooked so that’s how it starts. Im in the Hutt Valley.
@@SS-Workshop But But But, I can't afford to go down another rabbit hole of tools... LOL
Thanks for the great info! Have you turned much stainless on this lathe?
Not to much only a few small shafts but seemed to handle if fine, just need tooling that can handle cutting stainless.
Hey, would you advise me to buy this lathe?
Do you have any flaws in this lathe?
I have had this lathe for a couple of years and it has been very reliable. It’s well built and has may features that are not seen on some other bench top lathes such as the quick locking handle for the tail stock. One thing to note is because it’s got electronic variable speed it lacks torque at low speeds. This is the same with any variable speed lathe of the size. I must say it’s very convenient to be able to adjust the speed even when turning. Hope this helps with your decision.
Thanks, Interesting, an upgrade of the motor and a VSD has crossed my mind but might have to wait for a little bigger lathe one day.