Workshop Tour | Benchtop Mill | S1.E2.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- On this episode we continue the workshop tour with the Optimum MH-28V bench top mill, looking at its features, upgrades and tooling. I use this mill for Model Engineering and General Workshop Projects with my current project being a 3.5" live steam locomotive to my own drawings.
Nice review.
Thanks for sharing.
Love the simple and elegant air operated taper setup 👍🏼
Update video would be good 👍
Would be nice to get links or at least brands / models for the adds you've used, ie. DRO and coolant system :)
Greetings from Nelson. Very cool introduction to your mill. Neat to be able to share the successes of our endeavor's, particularly
your Fell engine project. I'm impressed with the extent of your research and technical ability to develop the working drawings.
Like you I'm about to embark on a 3.5" loco, so watching your vids has been an awesome insight.
I've also just purchased the HM46B mill with the intention of fitting a quill dro scale like yours.
Would you be able to provide me with some detail on the materials used and the mounting of the scale and reader please.
Cheers, Peter
How do you oil the table ways does the table have any oil Cup to inject oil threw? nice mill btw
Hi Steve, no oil cups unfortunately so have to oil directly on the ways, the across travel is a little difficult being that it’s the underside your oiling so fighting gravity.
Containing the chups bro?
Do all the milling machines in your country use the mt3 taper for the tool holders? Here I think a lot of the mills use the r8. I don't know which works better. We have the mt2 or mt3 in the lathe headstocks and the mt2 or mt1 for the tailstock. The drill presses use an mt2 or mt3 for holding the chuck. I just think it is strange the we have morse tapers used in lathes and drill presses but the mill has the r8. I would like to know why our milling machines do not use the morse taper like yours with the mt3. I am thinking you guys know something we don't know. By the way, your shop is very clean and organized, I wish mine looked like that!
Thanks, an interesting question, it seems to be an New Zealand / Australian thing that bench top mills come with Morse Taper spindles, I’m not sure of the reason. As for which is better from what I understand the R8 is better as the Morse taper has the tendency to bind making it hard to release where the R8 doesn’t.
@@SS-Workshop thanks for the information. I am going to look around here and across the river in Canada to see if a mill with the mt3 is available. I only live about 8 miles from the river.
Hi Mate, thanks for the tooling info the other day. And yes it looks like I have done the drive cog again !!!!!!! Not happy jan ! Also Mate where did you get the speed charts from ? Would love a set ! Thanks again keep up the video’s, I’m learning a lot.
Hi Ron, that’s no good, it seems to happen way to often doesn’t it. The speed chart is based on a formula for converting diameter and Metres per minute into RPM then you just need some ideal MPM numbers which seems to vary everywhere you look for HSS. This also works with insert tooling, you just need the MPM numbers for them. I am just about to email you the chart and spreadsheet. Good luck with the gear replacement. Cheers.
SS Workshop Hi Mate, just thinking how come the top gear which you would think would strip first doesn’t happen ! So what would happen if the high and low gear was brass ?
Any thoughts ?
This has crossed my mind as well, from memory I even bought the gear cutter for cutting it, the only reason I can see why this gear is plastic is so if it slipped out of gear you wouldn’t take out the gears in the spindle which would be even harder to replace. Given this has happened to me twice it is a real issue but since I found the hidden set screw for tightening that, no problems. The question I have been pondering is will the brass gear strip before the steel one or should it be made of another material. In making the gear I think it would need to be cut in 2 parts then fixed together, not quite sure what would fix brass maybe silver solder and or a key. The only thing slowing me down on this is Its only a problem when it’s broken and then you need a working mill to make a new one so the new gear is installed then it’s not a problem again until next time it’s broken.... let me know what you come up with it would be good to fix this long term, I really wouldn’t mind swapping the top gear that’s meant to fail it would be a lot easier. Cheers.
Hi Mate, first off are you on iMessage !, I have been on Utube and this guy has installed a built drive at 3 to 1 so low end torque ! And cuts out the Plastic cogs what do you think ?
RUclips site : “Grizzly GO704 Belt Drive review and drill test “.
I have looked at belt drives before and my concern is to make the quill work they use 2 small screws to fix to the top of the outer sleeve of the quill, I think that if the mill stops this will be the first breaking point. This one is the same but with the pulleys reversed to increase torque and decrease speed which is nice but without the high low gear would leave the top end a little short for a face mill or small endmills. You could of course run a double pulley but the question comes as to what the existing gearing is doing to the motor speed (which is heavily geared down already) and what we ideally want. I will email you about iMessage.
Hi from Palmy, me again! Just lining up various accessories for the BF-20AV I have coming, which is similar to your machine. Most (Chinese sourced) MT3 tool holders tend to have M12 drawbar support, but the mill frustratingly comes with a 1/2". Do you recommend fashioning a new drawbar (as you did), or do you know if alternatives can be purchased? Any tips appreciated :)
I would recommend making a new drawbar. You can actually just use threaded rod if you want and add a nut welded on the end of it. That’s what I had for my previous mill and it worked fine. The key with the threads is NZ tool suppliers have a more coarse thread than standard m12, I can’t remember that pitch off the top of my head but I know it’s different. That is what the machinery house optimum mills come with as far a I know and it fits all the tooling they sell. If you are buying actual Chinese stuff, AliExpress and the like then they are standard m12 so it’s easy to get treaded rod at your local hardware store to match it. I don’t think anyone sells alternative drawbar for these, at least I have never seen them. If you are going to make one there is really not to much to it just turn it in pieces slid through the headstock of your lathe to minimise flex the just tap a thread on the end with a die. They don’t get much wear so mild steel seems to work fine.
@@SS-Workshop Great, thanks for the tips! The one sold with the mill (machinery house) is indeed a course 12tpi thread - it's a 1/2" Whitworth rather than M12 metric. I could buy all the adapters etc, but would much rather have metric to support a greater range of third-party tools. In other parts of the world the Optimum is often sold with an M12 drawbar, so it's a little frustrating to have the imperial one! :)
I’m surprised they are selling equipment that they don’t sell tooling for, not sure which market they were intended for certainly not ours. Another thought if you actually wanted whitworth tooling, arc euro trade in the uk appear stock some otherwise new drawbar time and maybe 2 if you want NZ and Chinese tooling options.
Machinery house do sell the whitworth tooling, but they are about the only ones. There are much cheaper options for M12. Will definitely be a new drawbar for me.
Optimum says they are German but made in China. Do you find optimum of German or Chinese quality?
I would say good Chinese, it’s better built than most and well featured but not as over built as you would find with German built machine.