Adam Savage Tours His New Benchtop Milling Machine!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Thanks to Onshape for sponsoring this video. Check out their cloud-based CAD tool at Onshape.pro/Te...
Adam gives a tour of his newly set up benchtop milling machine! Here's how this Precision Matthews mill complements the large Sharp Industries mill Adam uses in his workshop, and how Adam has arranged all his tooling and accessories to be quickly accessible in his new machining setup. How do you set up your machining tooling and operations at your own mills?
Precision Matthews Benchtop Milling Machine: www.precisionm...
Gooseneck worklights with magnetic mount: amzn.to/3ZG1eCx
Setting up the new mill: • Adam Savage's One Day ...
Building a T-handle wrench for this mill's vise: • Adam Savage's One Day ...
Shot by Josh Self and edited by Norman Chan
Music by Jinglepunks
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Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #machining #workshop
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Precision Matthews Benchtop Milling Machine: www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-728vt-ultra-precision-mill/
Hello Mr. Savage. We met a long time ago, when you were at ILM. You really inspired me. Now, semi retired from Ubisoft as Lead Animator and 3d Modeler, your building and , "Imagineering" has made me the the Artisan, I am today. Thank You. Still have your needle nose pliers and red Pentel, Mechanical Pencil.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Quick tip for metric tap drill size. Subtract the pitch from the dia and you have your tap drill size. (M6x1.0=5mm drill)
Thank you, bless you for this.
I've worked in machine shop for 40 years and didn't know this, I just checked it on my Starrett chart and by god it's dead on! Thank you for teaching an old dog a new trick.
This tip is true only if you want a 75% thread, which is prescribed for common soft materials, but you wouldn't want to use this method for harder materials.
For example a M6x1.0mm tap would required a 5.2mm or 5.4mm drill if you wanted to tap stainless.
@@paulblair898 thanks for the reply, I might be drilling my stainless parts too small then. They are always a pain to tap.
@@Sean-ib7pd I'd take any advantage I can get when tapping stainless, it loves to work harden and then eat taps.
Have you thought about adding a pneumatic foot valve to trigger the compressed air so that you do not have to take you hands off of the hand wheels?
and having the blower mounted on a gooseneck aimed at the center point blowing to the splash back
Generally while you're prototyping and machining by the seat of your pants like Adam does you have a chip brush that you use. The classic chip brush is a 2" China bristle brush. You buy them by the 3 dozen and just kill them.
The other nice thing about benchtop mills is that it’s easier to follow or cut tapers because it’s easier to manipulate both axes at the same time since the handles are closer together. I have a 4” machinist vise with an angle plate that I’ve found to be useful. I use a cordless 3/8” ratchet for a power drawbar. I had a gunsmith mentor that encouraged me to buy this machine first since it will do a large range of jobs and even if I needed a larger machine later, it won’t replace this one.
I have been shopping for a bench top mail for two or three months now, and still had not decided until I watched this video. I’m very intrigued and the smell and I’m leaning toward getting this one.
Thanks as always for a great video
Cheers
I've been saving for a mini mill add machining to my shop for years. Adam gets one handed to him, there's a saying about this situation... happy for you Adam, don't take it for granted.
Since I am single, I replaced my living room furniture with a modest size mill and 12 x 36 lathe. Sometimes life is good!
Hey Adam! Couple of useful formulas for you
Metric tap drill size = dia - pitch
Ex m8-1.5 = 6.5mm
Standard tap drill = dia - 1/pitch
RPM = cutting speed (in sfpm) x 4 / dia of cutter
Example: cutting speed of mild steel is 100 so
400/.5" cutter = 800rpm
They also taught us in school that compressed air can damage the precision ground ways on the table and cause innacuraces but not sure how true that is lol
Cheers :)
My dad had a logic textbook that said, (in part), when you're looking for something you've lost, turn on all of the lights. Building lights into the spot where you're looking seems like a good proactive step.
If you ever want to find an a small item on the floor, lay a flashlight on its side on the floor and shine it around. Not only will it show you exactly how dusty your floors are, but you'll almost always find that tiny item. Doesn't work on thick carpeting, however.
@@sundaynightdrunk What if I'm looking for the thick carpeting?
@@PlatypusVomit
😃👍
Adam, I've been a long long fan of yours since the Mythbuster days. You guys silently brought machining to the forefront of the public and as a machine shop owner I feel we are a bit forgotten as we spend our days in quiet isolation making things everyone uses. To see you shed light into this trade has inspired me and I'm sure many others to take on machining as a career. We as a country need people who can make things and use these pieces of equipment and tooling to keep our pride of things made here in USA. I've got plenty of years ahead and I hope I can continue doing what I enjoy. Other foreign countries has made it difficult for us to compete due to cost of labor being lower overseas. I'm glad your video came up on my feed, keep carrying the torch and be a light for others in the trades. Warm greetings from SoCal. -Casey
Very clean, very sanitary, very well thought out. Wow. I think I can learn things here.
14:23 the thing he uses to see if the mill vise is perfect. He calls it a micrometer. It is NOT A MICROMETER it is called a indicator.
One added feature you might want to integrate is a small airline that has a ball valve or something to that effect which sits alongside the cutting head to constantly keep your work piece clear without having to blow all the time or intermittently stop to use the air hose to clear the work space
You have just demonstrated the most expensive and most precise etch-a-sketch ever made.
not a single air bearing, and several hundred thousand dollars shy on precision and cost. That being said, it is a VERY NICE etch-a-sketch. I adore my 727M, and have for years. I tend to think of it more as my most pimped out drill press though, since that's it's most common task.
I dunno, a nice big CNC using a manual control panel could be a pretty expensive etch-a-sketch ;)
Not even close.
Good luck with shaking it over your head! 😀
I'm consulting my crystal ball and I'm foreseeing an upgrade to the benchtop mill, adding a permanent air nozzle to clear chips constantly. 😀
Great Work Mate!
I really like how you explain all the acronyms for people that might not know.
Adam should get some of those flex hoses like he uses for his camera arms (only smaller ones) and put an air nozel that can blow chips away continuously
A small piece of advice, it is much easier to control movement with the correct speed and feeds, recommended speed for 4140 steel is appox. 6000 rlm for a 3 mm cutter with good rigidity so here you could easily run at 4000 rpm
Picked up a Grizzly mill G0704 and lathe G0752 late last year. Been machining ever since. Once you work the kinks out and install a few upgrades and improvements the machines are excellent and produce quality parts.
Make chips!
My mill had push buttons for for/rev, they were hard to tell which one was pushed and easy to push the wrong one. I wired a used back up horn from a fork lift to the reverse button. The horn is sealed inside the box so as to not be too loud. The odd time I use reverse I actually get a chuckle from the "back up alarm".
I've done the same on a knee mill, except with a blinking LED (panel-mounted next to the REV button) instead of a buzzer. It's good to have a reminder before you turn your 2-flute end mill into a no-flute end mill!
Do you ever actually have to utilize the reverse?
@@tevinvezina1766 i use all the time when power tapping
@@tevinvezina1766 Rarely but when you do you're glad it's there. Mostly it's for clearing a jam or unwinding some accident. Backing out a tap. I've never seen a reverse cutter or twist drill but that does not mean they don't exist.
@@Guranga93 Ahh I see! I’ve only ever hand-tapped so I didn’t think about that possibility.
Rewiring that switch is worth the effort. It's nice, and safer, to have all your tools operate the same.
Fun watch, thank you. Couple of call out observations: 1. Ring and watch, everyone has the right to wear them if they want, but removing these articles was one of the very first things taught in shop class. 2. Be careful with too much torque on that "screw-less" precision vise, those nuts are prone to break. I esp. observed this with that massive DIY T-Handle tool you made :)
You may be breaking small endmills easily because you're not running them at a high enough RPM. An 1/8" HSS endmill should be running closer to 3K rpm in mild steel, but since it was carbide 6K should be no problem. Always do the math for cutting speeds and get as close as you can.
Most makers spend all their time and money on making and only a small fraction of time and money on shop infrastructure. Adam is the opposite.
Put the clamping setup on a swinging shelf that locks to the mill base so you can have it there or out of the way if you need it
I don't do anything at all in regards to building or creating or anything that Adam does on his videos. I'm purely here for Adams passion and excellent explaining skills. Legend
Oh that parallel box is so beautiful... And painfully misspelled...
You can also tumble the collets for a little while to debur them.
That's what we ended up doing..we just didn't have the patience to go over every collet with a file manually.
The reason the x/y "feel" is better on Adams benchtop milling machine is found in the leadscrews used in the table. This smaller machine has leadscrews with 10 threads-per-inch in the x and y axis, so one full turn of the handwheel advances the table by .100". On a Bridgeport (and clone), the table leadscrews are 5 threads per inch, one full turn on the handwheel advances the table by .200", or twice as far. So yes, the table movements are more precise, which can be beneficial for small parts. And because everything is scaled down, including the workpieces, you don't feel like you're cranking forever to move the table, which would be the case if your Bridgeport had 10 tpi leadscrews.
The direction switch actually makes more sense the way it is. You are turning the switch in the direction the spindle is turning.
Just wondering if you need to keep using air supply hoses to blow away the shavings would it be easier to have an auxiliary one on an arm in a set position you can then activate with a foot pedal so you don't have to stop when milling?
I think that milling vice could do with some more clamps to hold it down, else i reckon it could move under the cutting forces.
Agreed. I'd have at least two on each side, unless he's milling really small and delicate parts but it's easy to under estimate just how much torque and forces are applied when machining even little parts. I quickly learned that at the beginning that even when you have a vice clamped down VERY tightly, the mill can still easily shift it even under relatively light loads. Just goes to show how large of forces are transferred from the cutters to the work piece.
I think he'll soon add another clamp on each side because that vise is bound to shift on him at some point.
Adam gets so much gifted swag
call me green.
But he will use it !
and inspire !
Nice mill and good video.
It’s a blast setting up a new mill, one of the things I learned very quickly when I set up my work area is that chips go everywhere ! Especially if you use air to blow away chips ( which I do also )
Problem is that the chips end up in your collet rack and your hold down rack and it becomes a chore keeping things clean.
I found that setting these items under cover or out of the chip zone is a small price to pay in order to keep your tools clean.
P.S. you ask 5 people how to do something and you will get at minimum 5 different answers, lol
That could be clear plastic cover. So you can see what you want.
Why did you only almost rewire that switch? I am sure you will do it at one time. And then you will think: Why didn't I do a long time ago?
Adam needs to learn about surface speeds. There's a formula SFPM=(PI*DIA*RPM)/12 but I use a chart to get me in the ballpark. A 1/8" diameter tool spinning 2,000 RPM is only 65 surface feet per minute which is pretty slow for free machining plastic. You can go a few hundred SFPM. Generally you want to over drive small diameter tools so you don't side load them so much. Know your speeds! Turning tools at the right speed gets best results.
Aha, immediately noticed the forward/reverse thing as well, glad I'm not the only one who would be tempted to rewire the machine to fix it
If you have 2 machines that a similar function is an opposites on it would be wise to redo one to the method that you are the most comfortable.
I've just ordered the 727V, won't arrive for a couple months though!
Congratulations on your new toy. Thought you should know that you misspelled "parallel" on the case.
$4000 seems like a fair price to make things you use every day instead of buying stuff you never use.
For metric threads good rule of the thumb is that the pilot drill is the size of the bolt minus the pitch of the thread like for M10 thread the pitch is 1.5mm so pilot drill for it is 8.5mm
Yes, it’s logical and super easy compared to inch sizes with all their secret codes like an #8-32 screw and a number 29 drill, and don’t even start on letter drills!
@@emmajacobs5575 but if you don't memorise it all you're "not a real machinist"! ;)
@@mattagnew206 haha
You will soon find the headroom to be a little bit of an issue when using drills,the length of the chuck and the jobber drills makes it pretty tight. Screw machine drills come n very handy( plus they are more rigid) Little Machine Shop sells a lot of accessories sized to bench top machines.( 4” rotary tables etc)
Ran multi spindle 4,6,8, spindles acme gridley,conamatic, wickman @ Black and Decker Hampstead Md. In the 1980's. Sharpened a million drills by hand. Made chop saw gears. Ran 4 machines at the same time. A screw machine 6 inch collets, a barber coleman gear shaper to shape gear teath, a broach to put keyway in, and a deburing tool to debur back of gear inside diameter. Got tool and die pay. New Bridgeport son😊
I bet people who are good with an Etch A Sketch love using these machines.
Lovely! I now have a milling machine that I built from two 17.7x6.7inch XY tables, 2x2x1/4inch square tubing, and a mini lathe. I'm still working on it and I don't have a proper table for it yet. I'll make a video of it some time in the future but right now I'm busy working on stuff for the mini lathe.
Clean machine = clean mind = clean machining
I just want to applaud whoever is responsible for Tested's audio. I've very sensitive to volume changes, and whoever is doing the audio work for the channel properly understands volume normalization.
It looks like the door to the pedestal cabinet is reversible. You might consider flipping it so that it opens at the front, so you're not reaching around the door to get at something inside.
Yeah, I was a bit surprised seeing the door open to the side, mine opens to the front (have a couple vids on my channel on my milling machine setup).
Would it be helpful if you set up a small, continuous air hose aimed at the mill bit to blow debris away? I'm looking forward to seeing what you create with this benchtop mill, and maybe the kind of wheel you make for it. It is an exciting addition to your workshop.
They make air blowers specifically for this purpose, some also can mist coolant at the same time :)
Yeah I like chip swarf all of my shop. I mean who doesn't? It's more beneficial to just use a chip brush to sweep them away while you go. I have a shop vac next to my mill too and I'm not afraid to use that either.
@@1pcfred cheap used paint brushes work well too
@@SomeGuysGarage they do but they're just not the same as those cheap China bristle brushes. The way the bristles fall out it can be a plus when you're machining. Plus every China bristle brush you trash you're saving some poor fool from trying to paint with it.
Decent jigsaws do this as well, making accurate cuts much easier.
I bought the 727-M 5 or 6 years ago. Now it’s full CNC with an automatic tool changer.
You should get a set of screw machine length drill bits for your small mill. They are about half the length of standard "jobber" bits
This is fantastic!
Half of the video I was like "When Adam is finally going to show us that small milling machine". Then I realized that thing is what Adam calls "small".
I've been wondering about benchtop mills in general as I want a mill but don't have space for anything even remotely "regular mill" sized.
Same. So I got a 8" drill press and a 4" Milling attachment. With 2 axis for the handles. Same foot print as a shoe box. Fits on a bench. You could get both pieces for 200 bucks or less. For basic projects.
Great video! Ha-ha "Paralells" instead of "Parallels". I guess that's an inside joke?
:)
I have the 728 also, and love it. I've 'never' used the Z DRO to set height, I power-feed it down close to the work and then use the quill DRO for actual settings. But the quill LCD is funky, battery-powered and times-out just when you need it most, so I installed a scale on the quill and connected that to the DRO Z axis readout.
1) safety glass 2) use air compressor to blow stuff instead of your mouth.
That said, do you have smallish lathe machine too?
Around $4200 with shipping and some collets and such.
Easiest solution is to flip the motor leads, i'd leave the switch alone. also, runout basically means nothing at the spindle taper, it needs to be measured at a known distance from the "gage line" , theres 2 kinds, angular, and radial. angular gets worse with distance, radial is basically the same regardless of distance from the gage line.
So, just an observation from someone who has managed to mill out a small portion of their thumb, it looks to me like you are allowing the smaller size of the machine to lower your guard a bit. Your hands were way too casually close to a revolving bit on several occasions here. So just a reminder that the little mill is perfectly capable of maiming you with high precision. Which I suspect will not be appreciated by anyone.
Been there, done that, cringe every time I remember it.
I really appreciate this channel and the idea of forced retirement due to injury would really suck. And there is also the example set factor, so please reassess as you frequently do. Watch what you did on footage if need be to catch the unconscious behavior.
talking about a "state of flow"
just to then drop a endmill, struggle with a vice and the extend the quill as far as possible 😂 (although its just richlite)
good job 10/10 🎉
Very nice mill, I'm jealous!
Hello Adam
Well i like your setup for machining but you said you used a micrometer to set your vise? but i think you meant an indicator? Also the rule of thumb is smaller the tool higher the spindle speed.
You don't need excuses for a new machine dude, we want more too
Totally awesome dude
That DRO needs to make the sound effect from Back to the Future when you turn it on.
13:22 door should be switched in the opposite opening direction so you can access it easier...
Have you considered setting up your air nozzle like your light with a foot pedal. That way you could blow off your work and leave your hands free to work the axis.
Adam, you should remove the the left wheel. My first thought yesterday was that you're only going to hurt yourself with it. Sure enough, you bumped it 5 minutes later.
You're a righty, so the left one will only be in your way.
Yeah, you should really rewire that switch, before you burn a project you've spend hours on.
I also want to introduce you to a drilling chunk, for your Dremel.
I never use anything else now, cause now it can take the smallest bits, without changing those tiny, godawfully Dremel chucks.
Amazing, I really want to buy one of these machines! Keep up the great content!
I have the little cousin to this mill... The Sieg X2D. It's honestly a great machine. I've made lots of good parts on it, and can usually hold +/- 0.001 or so (if I'm super careful). I've added DRO scales, and use TouchDRO for the display. I've upgraded the spindle bearings to angular contact bearings, and swapped out all the plastic gears for metal ones.
I've been using the Tormach TTS tool holders for a while, and absolutely love them. Having quick-change tooling on my mill is a quality of life upgrade that I can't recommend enough. No more changing collets! Plus, they're repeatable, which is amazing when coupled with the tool library in TouchDRO. I've even made my own TTS-compatible tooling.
Always enjoy seeing, and sharing, your enthusiasm for making things, and for the tools that you use to make. I've made a few videos of improvements to the machines in my shop, and it would be amazing for you to check them out.
You absolutely have to rewire the forward/backward switch, that would drive me nuts 😅
Someone else in the comments had a better idea. Just swap the motor leads.
The first thing I thought of when you mentioned the 'forward/reverse' switch was "Why would they do it like that? I would open it up and swap the wiring". Right there with you, Adam. Next, you might want to integrate some type of waste collection. Just sayin'
I've never quite understood why people want to show how good the machine is by using the smallest milling bit they have. But they put plastic in the machine to cut. Impress me, put a piece of 303 stainless in the vice and show me you can do the same. I know the machine is versatile and will cut many things but most machinist cut some sort of metal 90 percent of the time.
You know how to reverse the switch, and it’s your mill. Go for it!
Rewiring the FWD-OFF-REV switch will probably void the warranty on the mill. My suggestion would be to prepare a label that reads REV-OFF-FWD instead.
One thing to consider on these mills is screw drills - much shorter length to preserve precious Z-axis range.
I love them on mine.
Great machine sir
Drill chart- note the difference in size between the imperial and the metric. Nuff said.
Love your vlogs! Huge Fan.
Scotland made it in first yeah!
I especially enjoyed this video, THANK YOU! My better half presented me with a small bench-top mill for my birthday from THE LITTLE MACHINE SHOP over in Pasadena. Thankfully it has a 3 axis DRO which makes me seem to actually be fairly good at cutting what I intend! Watching your videos along with CEE ( Cutting Edge Engineering ), Blondihacks and others I have gotten a good jump-start on how to use the machine! As with my old Atlas/Craftsman lathe, it seems that you can never have enough different tools to plug onto the machine!! Of course, the best part about the videos is catching on to the hints and kinks of how to easily do the otherwise seeming impossible things!!
I don’t know if the switch directions on forward reverse is also opposite, but I’d just change the labels 😅
5:03 Definitely swap your Fwd Rev selector switch action to match your memory.
While you're in there you could pop in a Bourne 10 turn potentiometer or equivalent if you would prefer finer speed adjustments.
just swap up the wires on the switch! don't feel guilty - its just smart for your shop. 🙂
instead of rewiring the polarity switch, you could maybe just change the label.
In the Sharp (and Bridgeport and all clones) Forward or Reverse depends of if you are in low gear or high gear.
I feel like that cabinet could benefit from a gasket or some sort of dust guard around the door otherwise all the debris from the shop and the mill itself is gonna get in all the little nooks and crannies inside that you will never be able to clean.
From the thumbnail i thought you had some Tardis inspired rig, hah.
Just wondering, wouldn't you prefer some kind of constant airflow to blow the squibblies away?
I remember from the milling job i had for like 3 months, there was a flexo line blower powered by the mill itself, could turn it on or off with a button on the mill, and it was absolutely necessary on a big rig, maybe not on this one, but maybe the Sharp.
I just bought my first mini mill from little machine shop. It was great seeing some of your custom mods. And we have the same vice! Haha
Thanks to Onshape for sponsoring this video. Check out their cloud-based CAD tool at Onshape.pro/Tested
adams next video : hello everyone today were adding a air nozzle to my new milling machine
I have a king Canada mini mill, which is a little bit smaller than this. I changed the E8 to an ER32 and converted to CNC. Super handy and I can run it manually if I need to. Nice for very fine work.
That vice is sometimes tricky to use. You have to get the crossbar into a detent before tightening, otherwise it can slip. And it also has to be loosened a bit to clear the detent so you can easily move the jaws.
Don't loosen the bolt too much, the crossbar can fall off.
LOL......I have one of these grinding or toolmakers or screwless vices and after a while I almost threw it in the bin it was so frustrating with the nut (crossbar?) at the bottom not engaging in the cross slots or dropping off the screw when wound back.......after a mod it now performs like a dream and second to the DRO is my most treasured mill tool.
BTW.........better make a back panel to prevent the blown swarf from coating everything in the shop especially if you use coolant on steel.......with coolant use you will rapidly get mucky corners and everything else covered in oily residue.......that's par for the course unless you only use carbide tooling and forget about coolant.......I use a portable hand vacuum to clear the swarf instead of blowing it around the shop.
@@gangleweed Turn the air pressure down to 20-25 psi for starters.
@@gangleweed I don't know why people constantly use air to remove chips. I use a shop vac and it works just as well. Using air just means you're creating 3 or 4 times the work when you have clean it all up later on.
The only exception is if your machine is in an enclosure. I use air all the time at work but its a swiss lathe in an enclosure with a built in mist remover. At home I use shop vacs almost exclusively.
I took mine off and installed a 6" low profile vise.
I don't know if it was mentioned in previous posts, but that kind of vice is designed to have the screw clamp the jaw in a 45 degree angle. so that you are putting the same pressure down on the vice be the same as the material clamped. the more the angle changes from the 45 toward 90 degree the more pressure you put into the vice and not the material being held. the less than 45 degrees then more to clamping in the material but it does not hold it in the vice as secure. I hope that helps you in the future of using that vice.
Hello Adam,
To reverse the motor I would avoid rewiring the switch as it is a rather complicated setup.
There is a good chance the DC motor was wired in reverse at the factory.
It is easier to reverse the two wires from the motor on the control board.
Being a DC motor this will solve your problem.
Regards,
David
Dalgety Bay
Scotland
That's some out of the box thinking. Great idea!
I got the exact machine 2 weeks ago and I have used it everyday since. I also own a PM 1130V Lathe. Great stuff.
You’re into all things space. How do you think a mill and or a lathe will work on the moon or Mars?
All that’s missing in an AvE “Engage Safety Squints” sticker
Keep yer dick Inna vise
To be pedantic, the DRO measures to 2 10,000ths, not 1 10,000th. Ive seen other YTbers make a similar slip. Just jelous, its 10x worse on mine. Lovely machine.