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Hey Adam, here's an FYI, that you would like to know, about how the store bought sandblasters work. Ok, first off, the shape is fairly decent, as the cone at the bottom could be slightly longer, and obviously the gloves, as you already know. BUT, with the sand, you are able to recycle the same sand through, and save a ton of money(As well as, keep it all as a single unit, that is truly mobile), by storing the sand in the bottom of the cone(I would say, from personal experience, about 1.5-2 gallons worth, as you don't want to overload the hose itself. And, let the pickup hose, hang down in the sand. And, you can also modify the sandblaster, so where your window is, is your hatch, to insert/remove whatever you are going to sandblast, so you aren't always bending down, like the side hatch. Now, back to the sand itself, and it's weight on the trapdoor. You just counter it, with a strong spring, making the trapdoor now spring-loaded. Also, you can get a foot actuator, that way you are not squeezing the trigger, as you can then bypass the trigger on the gun, and just use your foot to activate it. And, you can have the light's & vacuum hooked to 1 switch, so they work in sync with one another. Also, for those who never used a sandblaster before, DON'T EVER point the gun towards your hand, if at all possible to avoid it, as the gloves can and will get eaten through easily. And, it can cause massive issue's, including bad wound's. And, NEVER put wet(Including oil's), or damp part's in it, unless you are asking for a pain-in-the-neck problem!
Here is the best compliment I can give Adam Savage. I'm 67, retired, and spend way too much time on the computer, often watching RUclips videos. After watching Adam work on a project or talk about his shop I almost always find myself thinking about something I haven't finished or project I need to get started, turning off my computer and getting on with my day. Here is to Adam who through his own excitement for his projects gets me up and excited about working on my own tasks and ideas.
@9:56 Adam turns around and says to the camera, "Can you see that? Hopefully you can see that." I proceed to tilt my head right 45°, trying to see around his head.
Years ago I worked for a sand carving company and they used a slot instead of holes. The gloves were attached to bellows and allowed significantly better dexterity while handling parts. You also might want to put a layer of clear window untinted window tint on the glass inside the cabinet. You glass will slowly frost over. If plate glass is cheap enough to replace install picture frame tabs on the outside to make the glass easy to remove.
using plate glas can be very dangerous, if the pistol slips out of your hand shards can fly in your face. tempered glas is more expensive, but you might nog get glasshards in your neck or eye
As a person you blasts and coats small parts for a living I highly recommend also getting vacuum bags for your dust collector. The cyclone is great for getting some of the bigger dust but the shop vac filter still plugs with the fine dust after 15 minutes in my shop. After installing a vacuum bag in the shop vac I get weeks of blasting before I need to do maintenance. Total game changer.
Adam, nice build, you may want to add some updates. 1 - you may want to add the vacuum exhaust inside the cabinet, with an air stream that blows out and onto the inside of the viewing glass, this will keep your glass clean. 2 - add a metal plate on the inside of the cabinet that is wired to ground. The sandblaster will generate a hefty charge of static electricity and by putting a ground plate in a wood cabinet will help to discharge the static charge.
@@bushratbeachbumstill preferable that those particles end up back in the box than in your shop. And given the lower velocity of the shop vac flow, probably doing less harm than the blasting bounce back that will frost up the glass anyway.
10:05 Announcer: "They could not, in fact, see that" Also, *always* wear a respirator when using a cabinet list this. Silicosis is no joke, protect your lungs!
It never fails. In my 48 years of life, RUclips shows me something new every day. Especially Adam. I have never thought of threading hose clamps together.................. A learning day for me. Invaluable info.
You can also do this with plastic zip ties. Works to gain more length, but also if you want more than one 90 degree corner (made where the tie enters the buckle) to conform to a shape for instance, or reduce the chance of being cut by passing over a sharp corner.
@@kennethelwell8574 I knew that one. Been stringing those together since the 80's. They work great to hold glued wood projects together when you're short on clamps or have a tight spot.
Built a sandblast cabinet 40 years ago. Made it big enough to hold a (440 Dodge) header. Needed the gloves to have a much longer reach, so I extended them with pieces of car tire innertube. Sewed 10" sections of innertube to the gloves, then fastened to the cabinet. Used glass beads as a medium, much less abrasive than sand.
I've media blasted parts using a set up in an old auto shop I worked at. Aluminum for a motorcycle exhaust, glass bottles (to make them look like they've been on a beach for 40 years), all of it was SO satisfying! We used walnut shell and found that we had to clean the media often (if used for cleaning rust, etc off parts). You can obliterate detail if you aren't too careful!
cyclone vacuum separator to clear the air inside magnet stand in side. vinyl film on glass to dull the impact long lasting -- make sample card of alum steel brass ect of what each media grit dose
Ordered a cyclone? You just built a cabinet, why not build a separator? Mine is made from a couple of 5 gallon buckets, bits of PVC pipe and 3D printed adapters for the hoses (mostly the same as a Chris Notap video). It works perfectly.
Once a year my Aunt Sadie. A blasting cabinet is one of those tools you will find endless uses for, especially at the intersection of maker, weathering aficionado, and lover of old tools, and you will wonder how you did without it. As you delight in making old things look new and new things look old, I foresee lots of happy moments as you explore the effects of different blasting media and techniques.
I miss the days when Tested didn't time lapse the build. It just sucks. The old vids that showed the entire build is what got me hooked and taught me how to make. I loved throwing the vid on in my shop and making along side Adam....ahhhh....
Love your stuff man. I'm a mechanic of 22 years and I understand your need for awesome tools and just recently grabbed a vertical band saw for 50 bucks at a garage sale. Awesome videos man 👏 👏
I have the ultimate tip for sandblasting cabinets.... No matter what material you use for a window the blast medium will etch it fairly quickly to the point you cant see through the window anymore. The solution is to get a roll of Overhead Projector Film. This is a clear plastic film is meant for you write on while making a presentation using an overhead projector. You cut a piece off the roll to fit your window, place it in front of the window so it acts as a sacrificial layer. When the blast medium beats it up enough simply replace the film. It will get etched much faster then glass, but it's cheap and quick to replace. A 50ft roll is about $20 these days and will last you probably decades if you ever manage to use it up. I still have the roll I bought in the 90s....I built my current cabinet so I can remove the window and quickly lay a new film between the window and the door, but simply duct taping the film to the inside of the window works fine. Using the film I've gotten away with having Lexan window on my blast cabin with zero problems.
you might want to consider running an air line to the cabinet so you can have a chuck inside. It's super helpful to have an airgun to clear sand out of crevices, and any static cling-ons while working on stuff, and the inside of the window.
I used to work in a machine shop, we would send parts out for heat treatment, when the parts came back they would have an uneven finish to them. We would then sandblast them to make an even finish before sending parts back out for some sort of coating to be applied. That was one of the easier jobs in the shop, and it was satisfying to watch the finish change from post heat treatment to post sandblasting. We used a foot operated pedal to control the air flow, it made things so much easier.
Handy tool, I picked up a really cheap one fom Lidl (maybe it was Aldi) - just hooks to the compressor - no cabinet - came with a big jar of abrasive . Outstanding job (done outside 😁) to do some fancy etched glass signs using vinyl as the mask. Great tool for very occasional use.
Hi Adam, great video. I’ve worked with sandblasting for many years and would just like to recommend that you put some clear polythene plastic sheeting between the sandblasting chamber and the tempered glass window. Over time the clarity of the glass will go misty and disrupt your vision looking through the window. Using the plastic sheeting it will extend the life of the glass for many more years. Hope this helps and I enjoy all the videos you put out 👍🏼
It turned out great . 8 years ago I built one out of 3/4 plywood I can put a 4 foot object inside of mine I painted it white inside red on the outside it still works great. Thanks Adam
Adam, welcome to the club. Now that you have had the media blasting cabinet for 2 weeks, i am guessing you are completely hooked. Trust me, you will be upgrading that plywood cabinet sooner than you think. The beauty of a cabinet is that you can use different media. I like mixture of glass bead with type 3 plastic blasting media; but you can also use steel shot / grit, Silicon Carbide and many other options. Walnut shell or soda is a meh... too soft and breaks down too fast.Pointy hard media like SiC or crushed glass are going to embed into object being blasted others like glass/steel bead or plastic won't embed. Remember blasting is not about PSI; it is all about CFM. When i started blasting i used 2x California Air compressors at 2CFM each; now i use Eastwood QST 30/60 with 12.7CFM... night and day, but for small parts even small compressor will work. Don't want to flood your channel comments; email me if you want more info on blasting.
I also made a blast cabinet, I made it with an old filing cabinet and you might find it helpful for your extraction to add a pressure relief hole or valve to allow for for more efficient air cleaning also I found that a vortex only works for large particulate not fine and instead I would recommend using vacuum bags, although they are meant to be disposable festool bags are expensive you can cut and reseal them and use one specific bag for your blaster however if you’re going to use it infrequently as you said you might not even bother Airflow really is the most important aspect of maintaining visibility
You're going to use it way more than you would think. Glass beads are great for Aluminum, and other soft materials, and for subtle removal of paint or oxidation but not harm the materials itself. Aluminum Oxide is great for rust, and paint removal, but is way more aggressive. Both media can be reused. I would add an additional, fine mesh grate under the other one, so it catches the bigger paint flakes and rust particles. This helps keep the media cleaner, and reduces the change of clogging. And an add-on side expansion so you can put some longer/larger parts in there. Maybe use cool white light?
Many years ago, I worked for a company, and we sandblasted glass as art. We did tables and mirrors, and it was all custom work. We had a booth you would walk into to blast the glass on a rack we had on the wall. I would have to teach a new hire to actually do the blasting. He would have to wear a helmet and gear to blast in the booth. The helmet had air feeding him clean air to breath. The one problem we had was that the plastic glass he had on his helmet was that in time the sand particulates would eventually damage the glass of the helmet like you were sanding the helmet glass directly. What we ended up doing was cutting sheets of acetate and taping a few on the glass section of the helmet. As the first layer of the acetate would get marred by the particulates bouncing around in the booth, we would just peel it off and we would be able to see things clear again. That glass on your booth will get marred as well with the sand flying around. You may want to cover it with a few sheets of acetate and peel them off as it becomes difficult to see. It is a cheap solution compared to having to replace the glass of your blast box.
I sure hope that you've grounded everything. I remember a story from a work colleague who was thrown 8 feet into a wall after the non-grounded sandblasting cabinet he was using discharged through him. He blacked out and woke up against the wall. Luckily he lived to tell the story.
i have two, one is modded to feed clean water and drain swarf for a small lapidary/glass cutting saw. the blades i like to use are resin bonded diamond, which tend to explode at 10k rpm when things go south. both cabinets have a ton of LED light added. massive vacuums to outpace air input.
This is perfect timing was thinking round how I can make myself one (thats not in a plastic tub) for cleaning up ammonite fossils. Thank you Adam and crew much love
Very nice sir. We just used a big plastic shop sink with plexi on top with a light. Couple holes for the gloves and hoses and media recycles from/into a 5gal bucket under the sink drain 👍 oh and a tiny shop vac for exhaust air flow at the back.
Neat video, I've thought about building or buying a small blast cabinet. We had one at a shop I worked at and it was great, but then we decided to move it out of the shop and it was amazing how much cleaner the shop was once it was gone. like a fine layer of dust over everything within a 15 foot radius around the cabinet and it was gone overnight. After that we all started using respirators when using that cabinet in it's new location.
Baking soda is an amazing media to try out. Great for delicate things you otherwise wouldn't try blasting. Experiment a bit, might find additional uses you didn't anticipate. Couple years ago I found a few tuts on making a waterjet cutter. Was cheap and easy, I was impressed! Then I found out how much the cutting media costs (garnet) and noped out real fast. Might still do it some day for very special cuts and don't mind dollars per inch.
I do love a good hose clamp setup. I do woodworking as a hobby, and used hose clamps while making wood beer tankards, now I use them for tons of projects.
Nice job, Adam. That's fantastic. The knowledge you need to make sure you create the perfect conditions are not easy and, congrats, you did it! I follow several restoration channels and my only concerns are the length of the gloves and how close they are. If you only blast for a couple of min, it should be fine otherwise your shoulders are going to hate you.
Adam, the walnut shells are less abrasive than the sand. They're commonly used for polishing softer metals like brass in a tumbler filled with walnut shell media. They're probably more useful for cleaning/shining up a piece rather than giving it a matte finish that it looks like you were going for on the rings.
DUDE! cool!, also, you can use a vinyl cutter to make fairly precise sandblast masking, like if you wanted to etch a pattern, or design in an object! really fun stuff, enjoy!!!!
I got asked at work to add an air knife across the window (and in your case lights) to protect it from the media. Sandblasted glass is not so see through. Seemed like a pretty slick idea to me.
I've been toying with the idea of making a small blasting cabinet and you have pushed me over the edge so it will be an upcoming project. I restore a lot of vintage tools and this would help a LOT in cleaning the parts. Cept I'll make sure to get some longer gloves so I don't look like a frustrated T-rex trying to hit the A and B buttons. Great Job !!!
I occasionally run across used sandblast cabinets at a reasonable price or in a condition that can be fixed. A cabinet is handy. I think our friends use ours more than we do. I occasionally helped a church with their bell restoration project. That was fun.
i made a cabinet from a old kerosine tank. the holes is old fire extinguisher. AND you need to be able to replace the window. it get dull and you need a LOT of light. a lot! and one of the moste important thing is the air evacuation system.
First of all id love to see that clapperboard properly lol. I used to be a sandblaster for a coatings company years ago, we used to do all sorts of stuff from peoples gates and railings, to cars and motors of various kinds, they had contracts with allsorts of industries so always random stuff getting blasted or painted. Alot bigger than a cabinet though basically had a massive hopper in the corner of the blasting room that was connected to a massive air compressor with a big hose coming off it the nozzle on the hose had a trigger paddle on it, youd basically have to pin the hose under your arm and press the trigger down and hold onto it for dear life 😅 you had to wear a fullface helmet with an airline and a big apron attached to it, only did it for a year but was a fun job.
Adam, if you are going to do tool (or any other metal) restoration, get yourself a bucket of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) manufactured for media blasting. It's amazing in the way it can abrade away rust, paint, and general funk without damaging the metal underneath.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz I have used the plastic media, but in the interest of not polluting the planet with more micro plastics, I have chosen to go with soda. It is mildly caustic, but otherwise not a pollutant with the half life of a galaxy.
Line the inside with some sandblasting masking material to give the 'crap' plywood longer life. Anchor Continental and others make rolls of the stuff in various widths. We used this stuff in 'vinyl cutters' for making masks for sandblasting granite memorials (headstones) or for frosting designs on glass.
I used to work for an architectural glass company, who converted a 40ft long lorry trailer into a sand plating bay. the people who worked inside, used to have to get dressed in a kind of space suit, on air and go in. I got an opportunity to go in once, while the main guy was demonstrating what they could do - introducing me to layering and texturing. how they work in a kind of reverse nature, to create the bespoke design. the use of masks, which are the inverse of the design, the negative spaces, so that only the arofthat is the design is exposed. how that mask could contain multiple peel off elements, so the design will have multiple texture, over multiple passes. it was truly a mind blowing experience ( on punn instead!), I too had a blast (ok, that one was deliberate)
Paint the inside white for better lighting. The shop vac attachment is a good idea. I don't need anything like this, yet. But it's good to know in case I do build one. I think you could get away with the "Buckethead" style you see in hardware stores. Cheap and the CFpM is sufficient. If you want the vortex separator, I suspect it'd be easy to build one of those too, depends on the price.
You need to use the walnut shell as a final polishing media. For really nice satin finished parts use aluminium oxidide 80grit in your sand blaster then finish with fine glass bead in a water vapour blaster which can be made in the shop with an addition of a dirty water high flow pump and a bucket.
Get a lidded bucket for your "sand". Install a threaded fluted air hose ftg in the side very near the bottom. Install your sand hose to that ftg. Keeps the sand clean and gravity feeds.
So I am a paleontologist at a a small museum here in Wyoming. We sooo need a new sandblasting cabinets so we can work on our fossils. We use bicarb instead of sand tho.
Archaeological objects conservator here: we use glasspearls/beads (~70microns) or sodiumbicarbonat for iron objects. They always leave a beautiful matt finish. You also might want to make the windowglass interchangeable, it will get cloudy after a while😶🌫️ I was also wondering, when you would instal the vac😂 I saw that one coming from a mile away
i always wanted to make one of these, this is the content i love, thanks adam. I would say one thing and that is table saw tops are not work benches, it can damage the top and make using tablesaw more risky. Adam should set a better example on his shows. 😁
I purchased several for $50 bucks used locally. I get that building something is rewarding, but the used $50 harbor freight cabinet is larger and just works. Nice build though. Hopefully your glass doesn't get blasted over time. The HF ones have a replaceable plastic shield over the glass
For hose clamps, it's actually easier on the pocket to just make the indenting tool yourself and using shim stock which you can get by the roll. The clamps (with the screw) can be obtained in bags. Overall, less per unit and the size of the clamp is at your disposal. The tool is two pieces of metal, with 2 holes (per side), that accept two shafts. One shaft is longer and has ridges angled to make the thread, and the other has the negative to accept the metal. You can make both with a simple milling machine (or have them 3D printed in metal). There's a couple or more tuts that show the process.
At 6:42 - The threaded "bolt" that Adam is turning is used to tighten the strap and is a perfect example of a "worm gear" which translates circular motion to linear motion.
A few years ago a friend made a plywood blasting cabinet much like yours, and we quickly learned to not use it until after we added a bare copper wire going from the metal grate out to a nice ground. Everything was fine until you opened it and reached in to get your part.... Some of the static arcs were almost an inch long and were quite uncomfortable. Especially on hot dry days.
lost an opportunity to make an edit there when Adam says "hope you can see what I am doing" and proceeds to give us a very clear shot of the top of his head for a good amount of seconds XD
Funny at the mention of Adam’s favourite movie Bladerunner. As whilst in the UK on the Antiques Roadshow on Sunday was a guy with lots of Bladerunner props which his dad had collected. In his favour the collection he Demo’d was £300k. One item being a catalogue of a lot of the blade runner costumes which was deemed more expensive being 1 of a kind.
7:58 you can buy hose clamps where you can make your own size. The ribbon comes in a big spool and you cut to length and add the included hardware piece with the screw. Very handy. (Not sure how they compare to mcmaster carr. But there are different qualities levels of the make your own types too.)
Our playlist of audio described and accessible videos: ruclips.net/video/SiL8IzJSnyU/видео.html
Subscribe for more videos (and click the bell for notifications): ruclips.net/user/testedcom
Hey Adam, here's an FYI, that you would like to know, about how the store bought sandblasters work. Ok, first off, the shape is fairly decent, as the cone at the bottom could be slightly longer, and obviously the gloves, as you already know. BUT, with the sand, you are able to recycle the same sand through, and save a ton of money(As well as, keep it all as a single unit, that is truly mobile), by storing the sand in the bottom of the cone(I would say, from personal experience, about 1.5-2 gallons worth, as you don't want to overload the hose itself. And, let the pickup hose, hang down in the sand. And, you can also modify the sandblaster, so where your window is, is your hatch, to insert/remove whatever you are going to sandblast, so you aren't always bending down, like the side hatch. Now, back to the sand itself, and it's weight on the trapdoor. You just counter it, with a strong spring, making the trapdoor now spring-loaded. Also, you can get a foot actuator, that way you are not squeezing the trigger, as you can then bypass the trigger on the gun, and just use your foot to activate it. And, you can have the light's & vacuum hooked to 1 switch, so they work in sync with one another. Also, for those who never used a sandblaster before, DON'T EVER point the gun towards your hand, if at all possible to avoid it, as the gloves can and will get eaten through easily. And, it can cause massive issue's, including bad wound's. And, NEVER put wet(Including oil's), or damp part's in it, unless you are asking for a pain-in-the-neck problem!
NO!
We can't see anything, you're head is in the way 😂.
Here is the best compliment I can give Adam Savage. I'm 67, retired, and spend way too much time on the computer, often watching RUclips videos. After watching Adam work on a project or talk about his shop I almost always find myself thinking about something I haven't finished or project I need to get started, turning off my computer and getting on with my day. Here is to Adam who through his own excitement for his projects gets me up and excited about working on my own tasks and ideas.
@9:56 Adam turns around and says to the camera, "Can you see that? Hopefully you can see that."
I proceed to tilt my head right 45°, trying to see around his head.
Adam: "Can you see that?"
The audience: "no, we can't see that!"
Years ago I worked for a sand carving company and they used a slot instead of holes. The gloves were attached to bellows and allowed significantly better dexterity while handling parts. You also might want to put a layer of clear window untinted window tint on the glass inside the cabinet. You glass will slowly frost over. If plate glass is cheap enough to replace install picture frame tabs on the outside to make the glass easy to remove.
I've heard people recommend petg film as well. Apparently it has better scratch resistance without a significant price change
Would it be better if he just buy those cheap China glass screen protector and just paste it and when it's worn out just replace it?
using plate glas can be very dangerous, if the pistol slips out of your hand shards can fly in your face. tempered glas is more expensive, but you might nog get glasshards in your neck or eye
masking tape and overhead transparency sheets. 75 cents to renew it.
@@amphicorp4725 what is petg film?
What's it usual use?
As a person you blasts and coats small parts for a living I highly recommend also getting vacuum bags for your dust collector. The cyclone is great for getting some of the bigger dust but the shop vac filter still plugs with the fine dust after 15 minutes in my shop. After installing a vacuum bag in the shop vac I get weeks of blasting before I need to do maintenance. Total game changer.
As a person who does it once a year, does he really need that?
Adam, nice build, you may want to add some updates. 1 - you may want to add the vacuum exhaust inside the cabinet, with an air stream that blows out and onto the inside of the viewing glass, this will keep your glass clean.
2 - add a metal plate on the inside of the cabinet that is wired to ground. The sandblaster will generate a hefty charge of static electricity and by putting a ground plate in a wood cabinet will help to discharge the static charge.
There was actually a segment on Mythbusters about static charges built up during sandblasting!
Sounds like a good way to sandblast your viewing window.
The filter won't stop all particles
@@bushratbeachbumstill preferable that those particles end up back in the box than in your shop. And given the lower velocity of the shop vac flow, probably doing less harm than the blasting bounce back that will frost up the glass anyway.
@@samroesch hahahaha.
Try it out, see how you go...
10:05 Announcer: "They could not, in fact, see that"
Also, *always* wear a respirator when using a cabinet list this. Silicosis is no joke, protect your lungs!
Surely the cabinate means you dont have to
yeah, I was hoping an edit. I guess our editor is not always in the mood to poke fun of his boss :)
@@elevown A cabinet will not catch everything. And even the shop vac will let the finest particles through.
@@elevown You'll be amazed how much fine dust gets everywhere!
Or better yet, don’t use silica sand in the blaster.
It never fails. In my 48 years of life, RUclips shows me something new every day. Especially Adam. I have never thought of threading hose clamps together.................. A learning day for me. Invaluable info.
You can also do this with plastic zip ties. Works to gain more length, but also if you want more than one 90 degree corner (made where the tie enters the buckle) to conform to a shape for instance, or reduce the chance of being cut by passing over a sharp corner.
@@kennethelwell8574 I knew that one. Been stringing those together since the 80's. They work great to hold glued wood projects together when you're short on clamps or have a tight spot.
Built a sandblast cabinet 40 years ago. Made it big enough to hold a (440 Dodge) header. Needed the gloves to have a much longer reach, so I extended them with pieces of car tire innertube. Sewed 10" sections of innertube to the gloves, then fastened to the cabinet. Used glass beads as a medium, much less abrasive than sand.
I've media blasted parts using a set up in an old auto shop I worked at. Aluminum for a motorcycle exhaust, glass bottles (to make them look like they've been on a beach for 40 years), all of it was SO satisfying! We used walnut shell and found that we had to clean the media often (if used for cleaning rust, etc off parts). You can obliterate detail if you aren't too careful!
cyclone vacuum separator to clear the air inside
magnet stand in side.
vinyl film on glass to dull the impact long lasting -- make sample card of alum steel brass ect of what each media grit dose
I 3D printed a cyclone separator from thingiverse, Works Amazing, no vacuum needed on a sealed cabinet.
Ordered a cyclone? You just built a cabinet, why not build a separator? Mine is made from a couple of 5 gallon buckets, bits of PVC pipe and 3D printed adapters for the hoses (mostly the same as a Chris Notap video). It works perfectly.
Once a year my Aunt Sadie. A blasting cabinet is one of those tools you will find endless uses for, especially at the intersection of maker, weathering aficionado, and lover of old tools, and you will wonder how you did without it. As you delight in making old things look new and new things look old, I foresee lots of happy moments as you explore the effects of different blasting media and techniques.
I enjoy restoring old cars and a compressor+sandblasting cabinet has genuinely been the greatest tool purchase I have ever made. Life changing! 😁
I miss the days when Tested didn't time lapse the build. It just sucks. The old vids that showed the entire build is what got me hooked and taught me how to make. I loved throwing the vid on in my shop and making along side Adam....ahhhh....
Agreed. Sure somethings can/should be time lapsed but most stuff shouldn't be.
Love your stuff man. I'm a mechanic of 22 years and I understand your need for awesome tools and just recently grabbed a vertical band saw for 50 bucks at a garage sale. Awesome videos man 👏 👏
I have the ultimate tip for sandblasting cabinets.... No matter what material you use for a window the blast medium will etch it fairly quickly to the point you cant see through the window anymore. The solution is to get a roll of Overhead Projector Film. This is a clear plastic film is meant for you write on while making a presentation using an overhead projector. You cut a piece off the roll to fit your window, place it in front of the window so it acts as a sacrificial layer. When the blast medium beats it up enough simply replace the film. It will get etched much faster then glass, but it's cheap and quick to replace. A 50ft roll is about $20 these days and will last you probably decades if you ever manage to use it up. I still have the roll I bought in the 90s....I built my current cabinet so I can remove the window and quickly lay a new film between the window and the door, but simply duct taping the film to the inside of the window works fine. Using the film I've gotten away with having Lexan window on my blast cabin with zero problems.
you might want to consider running an air line to the cabinet so you can have a chuck inside. It's super helpful to have an airgun to clear sand out of crevices, and any static cling-ons while working on stuff, and the inside of the window.
and smaller grating for the bottom. You're always working on small stuff that will fall through that.
As a Scotsman the use of the word "shite" made my heart happy 😂
I think he’s said before about that being one of his favourite Britishisms
I used to work in a machine shop, we would send parts out for heat treatment, when the parts came back they would have an uneven finish to them.
We would then sandblast them to make an even finish before sending parts back out for some sort of coating to be applied.
That was one of the easier jobs in the shop, and it was satisfying to watch the finish change from post heat treatment to post sandblasting.
We used a foot operated pedal to control the air flow, it made things so much easier.
“Hopefully you can see that” proceeds to completely obscure view. Adam you are hilarious.
Handy tool, I picked up a really cheap one fom Lidl (maybe it was Aldi) - just hooks to the compressor - no cabinet - came with a big jar of abrasive . Outstanding job (done outside 😁) to do some fancy etched glass signs using vinyl as the mask. Great tool for very occasional use.
probably parkside from lidl
So satisfying seeing you build practical stuff to use and have fun with, loved you on Mythbusters and love your RUclips channel ❤
A natural Creative Genius
Hi Adam, great video. I’ve worked with sandblasting for many years and would just like to recommend that you put some clear polythene plastic sheeting between the sandblasting chamber and the tempered glass window. Over time the clarity of the glass will go misty and disrupt your vision looking through the window. Using the plastic sheeting it will extend the life of the glass for many more years. Hope this helps and I enjoy all the videos you put out 👍🏼
It turned out great . 8 years ago I built one out of 3/4 plywood I can put a 4 foot object inside of mine I painted it white inside red on the outside it still works great. Thanks Adam
Watching you get excited about stuff always puts a smile on my face.
Adam, welcome to the club. Now that you have had the media blasting cabinet for 2 weeks, i am guessing you are completely hooked. Trust me, you will be upgrading that plywood cabinet sooner than you think. The beauty of a cabinet is that you can use different media. I like mixture of glass bead with type 3 plastic blasting media; but you can also use steel shot / grit, Silicon Carbide and many other options. Walnut shell or soda is a meh... too soft and breaks down too fast.Pointy hard media like SiC or crushed glass are going to embed into object being blasted others like glass/steel bead or plastic won't embed. Remember blasting is not about PSI; it is all about CFM. When i started blasting i used 2x California Air compressors at 2CFM each; now i use Eastwood QST 30/60 with 12.7CFM... night and day, but for small parts even small compressor will work. Don't want to flood your channel comments; email me if you want more info on blasting.
Genuine vicarious joy for your solution! :) Nice one, enjoy!
I also made a blast cabinet, I made it with an old filing cabinet and you might find it helpful for your extraction to add a pressure relief hole or valve to allow for for more efficient air cleaning also I found that a vortex only works for large particulate not fine and instead I would recommend using vacuum bags, although they are meant to be disposable festool bags are expensive you can cut and reseal them and use one specific bag for your blaster however if you’re going to use it infrequently as you said you might not even bother Airflow really is the most important aspect of maintaining visibility
You're going to use it way more than you would think.
Glass beads are great for Aluminum, and other soft materials, and for subtle removal of paint or oxidation but not harm the materials itself. Aluminum Oxide is great for rust, and paint removal, but is way more aggressive. Both media can be reused.
I would add an additional, fine mesh grate under the other one, so it catches the bigger paint flakes and rust particles. This helps keep the media cleaner, and reduces the change of clogging.
And an add-on side expansion so you can put some longer/larger parts in there.
Maybe use cool white light?
Many years ago, I worked for a company, and we sandblasted glass as art. We did tables and mirrors, and it was all custom work. We had a booth you would walk into to blast the glass on a rack we had on the wall. I would have to teach a new hire to actually do the blasting. He would have to wear a helmet and gear to blast in the booth. The helmet had air feeding him clean air to breath. The one problem we had was that the plastic glass he had on his helmet was that in time the sand particulates would eventually damage the glass of the helmet like you were sanding the helmet glass directly. What we ended up doing was cutting sheets of acetate and taping a few on the glass section of the helmet. As the first layer of the acetate would get marred by the particulates bouncing around in the booth, we would just peel it off and we would be able to see things clear again. That glass on your booth will get marred as well with the sand flying around. You may want to cover it with a few sheets of acetate and peel them off as it becomes difficult to see. It is a cheap solution compared to having to replace the glass of your blast box.
"thanks for joining me, i had a blast"
words to live by!!
I sure hope that you've grounded everything. I remember a story from a work colleague who was thrown 8 feet into a wall after the non-grounded sandblasting cabinet he was using discharged through him. He blacked out and woke up against the wall. Luckily he lived to tell the story.
the Harbor Freight cabinet along with the mods you can get that are popular make it a damn good setup for a great price.
homemade though is heart.
i have two, one is modded to feed clean water and drain swarf for a small lapidary/glass cutting saw. the blades i like to use are resin bonded diamond, which tend to explode at 10k rpm when things go south.
both cabinets have a ton of LED light added. massive vacuums to outpace air input.
This is perfect timing was thinking round how I can make myself one (thats not in a plastic tub) for cleaning up ammonite fossils. Thank you Adam and crew much love
Very nice sir. We just used a big plastic shop sink with plexi on top with a light. Couple holes for the gloves and hoses and media recycles from/into a 5gal bucket under the sink drain 👍 oh and a tiny shop vac for exhaust air flow at the back.
Neat video, I've thought about building or buying a small blast cabinet. We had one at a shop I worked at and it was great, but then we decided to move it out of the shop and it was amazing how much cleaner the shop was once it was gone. like a fine layer of dust over everything within a 15 foot radius around the cabinet and it was gone overnight. After that we all started using respirators when using that cabinet in it's new location.
Baking soda is an amazing media to try out. Great for delicate things you otherwise wouldn't try blasting. Experiment a bit, might find additional uses you didn't anticipate.
Couple years ago I found a few tuts on making a waterjet cutter. Was cheap and easy, I was impressed! Then I found out how much the cutting media costs (garnet) and noped out real fast. Might still do it some day for very special cuts and don't mind dollars per inch.
14:40 pure happiness/elation mixed with the mad scientist type hair. Chef's kiss!
After pricing some small sandblasting jobs (~$200 minimum on jobs seems common), I am seriously thinking of building one.
I do love a good hose clamp setup. I do woodworking as a hobby, and used hose clamps while making wood beer tankards, now I use them for tons of projects.
Brilliant video Adam , i love how happy you were , sand blasting is on my bucket list hahahaha , these build video's are the best .
Nice job, Adam. That's fantastic. The knowledge you need to make sure you create the perfect conditions are not easy and, congrats, you did it! I follow several restoration channels and my only concerns are the length of the gloves and how close they are. If you only blast for a couple of min, it should be fine otherwise your shoulders are going to hate you.
Adam, the walnut shells are less abrasive than the sand. They're commonly used for polishing softer metals like brass in a tumbler filled with walnut shell media. They're probably more useful for cleaning/shining up a piece rather than giving it a matte finish that it looks like you were going for on the rings.
I love the first rapid succession of cuts in the first 10 seconds of the video
DUDE! cool!, also, you can use a vinyl cutter to make fairly precise sandblast masking, like if you wanted to etch a pattern, or design in an object! really fun stuff, enjoy!!!!
10:05 “Can you see that? Hopefully you can see that.” Immediately moves head into frame
"Thanks for joining me. I had a blast." We see what you did there, Mr. Savage! 😏
Thank you for noticing!
I got asked at work to add an air knife across the window (and in your case lights) to protect it from the media. Sandblasted glass is not so see through. Seemed like a pretty slick idea to me.
I made one out of an old stainless barbecue grill and even integrated the rotisserie attachment which is a game-changer.
Nice Build and as you use that you will find more and more uses !
I've been toying with the idea of making a small blasting cabinet and you have pushed me over the edge so it will be an upcoming project. I restore a lot of vintage tools and this would help a LOT in cleaning the parts. Cept I'll make sure to get some longer gloves so I don't look like a frustrated T-rex trying to hit the A and B buttons. Great Job !!!
often toyed with getting a small blast cabinet .. never thought of making my own from ply
and Adam closes with an ultimate dad joke ' i had a blast ' .. lol
I occasionally run across used sandblast cabinets at a reasonable price or in a condition that can be fixed. A cabinet is handy. I think our friends use ours more than we do. I occasionally helped a church with their bell restoration project. That was fun.
I've wanted Adam to get a sandblaster for years. I guess now that he has more floor space, he finally caved. Of course he built it.
We could have only seen the firrst go if you were an airhead...lol
I got a couple of hose clamps with yellow twist handles they work a treat
i made a cabinet from a old kerosine tank. the holes is old fire extinguisher. AND you need to be able to replace the window. it get dull and you need a LOT of light. a lot! and one of the moste important thing is the air evacuation system.
Really enjoyed this video. Thank you Adam ❤❤
First of all id love to see that clapperboard properly lol.
I used to be a sandblaster for a coatings company years ago, we used to do all sorts of stuff from peoples gates and railings, to cars and motors of various kinds, they had contracts with allsorts of industries so always random stuff getting blasted or painted.
Alot bigger than a cabinet though basically had a massive hopper in the corner of the blasting room that was connected to a massive air compressor with a big hose coming off it the nozzle on the hose had a trigger paddle on it, youd basically have to pin the hose under your arm and press the trigger down and hold onto it for dear life 😅 you had to wear a fullface helmet with an airline and a big apron attached to it, only did it for a year but was a fun job.
Adam, if you are going to do tool (or any other metal) restoration, get yourself a bucket of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) manufactured for media blasting. It's amazing in the way it can abrade away rust, paint, and general funk without damaging the metal underneath.
if you like soda, try type 3 plastic blasting media. Type 5 is less aggressive.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz I have used the plastic media, but in the interest of not polluting the planet with more micro plastics, I have chosen to go with soda. It is mildly caustic, but otherwise not a pollutant with the half life of a galaxy.
That came out great! Looking forward to them.
That is a fantastically maniacal thumbnail
Line the inside with some sandblasting masking material to give the 'crap' plywood longer life. Anchor Continental and others make rolls of the stuff in various widths. We used this stuff in 'vinyl cutters' for making masks for sandblasting granite memorials (headstones) or for frosting designs on glass.
"I had a blast"...well placed pun!
I was thinking the same thing. Nice job on the pun Adam.
A hardcore maker such as Adam is “only going to use it once a year.” I think not. Next video will be saying, “why didn’t I have this sooner..”
I enjoyed watching you and PJ talks
You clicked on every level 😊
I used to work for an architectural glass company, who converted a 40ft long lorry trailer into a sand plating bay. the people who worked inside, used to have to get dressed in a kind of space suit, on air and go in.
I got an opportunity to go in once, while the main guy was demonstrating what they could do - introducing me to layering and texturing.
how they work in a kind of reverse nature, to create the bespoke design. the use of masks, which are the inverse of the design, the negative spaces, so that only the arofthat is the design is exposed. how that mask could contain multiple peel off elements, so the design will have multiple texture, over multiple passes.
it was truly a mind blowing experience ( on punn instead!), I too had a blast (ok, that one was deliberate)
Adam, you're the blast!
Paint the inside white for better lighting. The shop vac attachment is a good idea. I don't need anything like this, yet. But it's good to know in case I do build one. I think you could get away with the "Buckethead" style you see in hardware stores. Cheap and the CFpM is sufficient. If you want the vortex separator, I suspect it'd be easy to build one of those too, depends on the price.
I grew up sandblasting in my grandfather’s sign shop. We made sandblasted signs in redwood and later high density foam.
this was hilarious. the camera angles, the way the gloves just drop the part.
very solid :)
Just clean out pops shop so I can build one too mr. savage always on point
You need to use the walnut shell as a final polishing media. For really nice satin finished parts use aluminium oxidide 80grit in your sand blaster then finish with fine glass bead in a water vapour blaster which can be made in the shop with an addition of a dirty water high flow pump and a bucket.
Get a lidded bucket for your "sand". Install a threaded fluted air hose ftg in the side very near the bottom. Install your sand hose to that ftg. Keeps the sand clean and gravity feeds.
Hose clamps: The OG zip tie.
Also known as Jubilee clips in the UK.
Widen the access holes for more comfortable working position and better handling control of part and media gun
Yes, the holes need to be shoulder width apart. And maybe elongated towards the middle.
Dan the next day , “ hey has anyone seen my self for the refrigerator?” Love how its home diy. Very cool
6:53 In the uk 🇬🇧 we call those jubilee clips.
So I am a paleontologist at a a small museum here in Wyoming. We sooo need a new sandblasting cabinets so we can work on our fossils. We use bicarb instead of sand tho.
Are you using micro air abrasives? If so what brand?
Archaeological objects conservator here: we use glasspearls/beads (~70microns) or sodiumbicarbonat for iron objects. They always leave a beautiful matt finish.
You also might want to make the windowglass interchangeable, it will get cloudy after a while😶🌫️
I was also wondering, when you would instal the vac😂 I saw that one coming from a mile away
Also: I'm on vacation rn, but now can't wait to get back to work. Thanks for that 😂
Sandblasting is my meditation
i always wanted to make one of these, this is the content i love, thanks adam. I would say one thing and that is table saw tops are not work benches, it can damage the top and make using tablesaw more risky. Adam should set a better example on his shows. 😁
I purchased several for $50 bucks used locally. I get that building something is rewarding, but the used $50 harbor freight cabinet is larger and just works. Nice build though. Hopefully your glass doesn't get blasted over time. The HF ones have a replaceable plastic shield over the glass
For hose clamps, it's actually easier on the pocket to just make the indenting tool yourself and using shim stock which you can get by the roll. The clamps (with the screw) can be obtained in bags. Overall, less per unit and the size of the clamp is at your disposal. The tool is two pieces of metal, with 2 holes (per side), that accept two shafts. One shaft is longer and has ridges angled to make the thread, and the other has the negative to accept the metal. You can make both with a simple milling machine (or have them 3D printed in metal). There's a couple or more tuts that show the process.
At 6:42 - The threaded "bolt" that Adam is turning is used to tighten the strap and is a perfect example of a "worm gear" which translates circular motion to linear motion.
Saving this to possibly build my own, retail cabinets are just getting too expensive.
Tell your friend that I never skipped the Mindhunter intro, my wife gets a kick out of me nerding out over that tape recorder.
On todays Adam builds a box, Adam builds a box!
When a dad joke is the entire premise of a maker video. "I had a blast!"
A few years ago a friend made a plywood blasting cabinet much like yours, and we quickly learned to not use it until after we added a bare copper wire going from the metal grate out to a nice ground. Everything was fine until you opened it and reached in to get your part.... Some of the static arcs were almost an inch long and were quite uncomfortable. Especially on hot dry days.
The sandblaster I used in the past had a water spray... that eliminates all the dust. But it was for more heavy duty work.
"I have a need for a small blasting cabinet.... Sand blasting"
Thanks Adam that clarification was needed knowing you and explosions
lost an opportunity to make an edit there when Adam says "hope you can see what I am doing" and proceeds to give us a very clear shot of the top of his head for a good amount of seconds XD
Funny at the mention of Adam’s favourite movie Bladerunner. As whilst in the UK on the Antiques Roadshow on Sunday was a guy with lots of Bladerunner props which his dad had collected. In his favour the collection he Demo’d was £300k. One item being a catalogue of a lot of the blade runner costumes which was deemed more expensive being 1 of a kind.
Inspirational. I need one.
You are so easily pleased! I don’t think it Will last, I would but one..
10:04
Down in front! 😁
Maybe a go pro in the cabinet (yes, protected) would be an idea.
13:33
That works, too
I have absolutely no need for a sandblasting cabinet, and yet this makes me want to build one.
Also, junkyards are a great hose clamp resource. Specifically BMWs
I feel like you need to build a custom Droid now with these finishes! You did a Saber, do a Droid!
7:58 you can buy hose clamps where you can make your own size.
The ribbon comes in a big spool and you cut to length and add the included hardware piece with the screw.
Very handy. (Not sure how they compare to mcmaster carr. But there are different qualities levels of the make your own types too.)