84 Chevy K10 Square Body ep5 - Why Change Body Mounts? Here's Why!
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this video, I change the old factory body mounts to new Energy Suspension body mounts on the old 84 Chevy K10 Square Body. What a pain and I fight my way through captured nuts that break free and just spin, have to cut into the floor, etc. Why should you change these out?? Watch this video and I'll show you!
I shot some liquid wrench all up in the hole near the bolt on the cab support for the fronts. Soaked them 3 days in a row leading up to it 😂 they came right out. Fingers crossed for the rear mounts. To be fair though the truck has been in nevada its whole life. Not a ton of corrosion.
Hopefully it worked out for you!! JD
I've been doing the same thing I'm praying I don't have to cut any holes in my floors
It’s a joy watching you work brother!!
Thank you Sir!!! JD
Good video! for those of you that are looking at doing this once you cut the floor panels to access the nut just use a map gas torch to apply heat to the bolt and the nut and it will come right out. After fighting the first one on my truck I then used a map gas torch and it worked easily.
Thanks Jerry for sharing, I should have tried that. JD
You really hit the nail on the head with the body mounts. It's an overlooked thing. Well worth the effort to replace.
Thank you Sir!!
Thank you for the video this will help me out when I eventually change the mounts on our 2 square body’s.
Thank you and glad the video could help!! I agree one square body isn't enough!! JD
Awesome. I've used a hole saw to make an access hole. Then I just bond the cut out disc right back in with seam sealer when I'm done. Easy to yank out if you ever need to get at it again
Good idea. I wish the factory would have provided access points but I honestly think the engineer that came up w captured nuts did this on purpose! Haha. JD
Replacing body mounts in the mid-west or East coast can be a pain in the butt when those caged nuts are welded on to the body mount bolt you have to cut open the floor boards to get them out when that happens. Luckily I live in the desert of the Southwest, and the body mounts on my square body where not that bad.
I also added a few body shims to the body mounts at the rear of the cab, in order to get the cab and the bed of my square body pick up to line up perfectly. I also added a 1" body lift from Off Road Design as well.
Sounds good. I hate to cut several of mine out (the caged nuts), it was a pain for sure. JD
Definitely glad I found your vid because I’m SURE that I’m going to be doing this to my ‘84 at some point!! Thanks man!!
Thanks. It's definitely a pain but worth it in the end. JD
Great video! You need to heat up the cage nut to melt the loctite they use from the factory or if there's a lot of corrosion
Definitely will try that next time and should have thought about doing that. Thanks for the comment. JD
Another great video! Keep up the good work. Very informative!
Thank you Owen!! Really appreciate the feedback. New fenders and hood is coming soon. Did I mention those body mounts were a pain?? Haha. JD
My buddy you are absolutely right they could have put a hole in there for you to get to it from the factory instead of cutting your floorI out.. I got a 1990 K5 Blazer and they do have a whole cut out with a plug that you pull out and I can go right in there and put a socket and screw the nut right off.
That would have been nice on this truck! JD
Really enjoying the content! Short squares are arguably the best looking trucks ever made. 35s look proportional to the uncut fenders. Any bigger and the truck looks like it’s floating on the tires
Thank you!! I agree w you as well. I’m putting on new inner fenders new fenders and a new hood next so stay tuned!! JD
I disagree, LWB! I am biased though, check out John’s other series Matt’s $1000 square body!I have had both though the years. When I was a younger guy I hated the way long beds looked, when I got older and started using trucks for work instead of just play I really came around to the 8’ beds and now they are by far my preference. Kind of like food you wouldn’t touch when you were a kid like mashed potatoes or asparagus and you get older, not necessarily wiser, and you actually like eating them now. It’s just that your tastes change. Fine by me for all you that prefer the SWB as more desirable, just makes the LWB versions cheaper for me to buy more of!!!
@@mattodonnell9182 I’m all square all the way. I had a K30 when I was younger and now have a SWB. I agree for work 8’ beds all the way! I had a toolbox in my LWB and really liked how it balanced out the truck. If your the Matt from Johns videos, I praise your skills.
@@floranfauna3090 I am that Matt, thank you for the compliment! K30! The holiest of holy working man squarebodies! Nah that’s what is great about these trucks, there is a style and configuration that appeals to everyone. What’s hilarious is John’s daughter says his is ugly but she likes mine, they are the same except for color and bed length. Same lift, same 35’s, same wheels pretty much. Drives John crazy but I think it’s hilarious.
Send links of your build to John, he likes adding viewer builds to his channel.
You can check out his series Matt did it again on the K5 blazer project.
I'm like Matt I myself prefer the longbed trucks and especially the square body gm trucks and they are much more useful for hauling or moving stuff,or carrying like a refrigerator or a freezer or something like a couch that can be a real pain hauling in a short bed truck..
Going to be doing mine over the winter. Thanks for the info.
Hopefully the captured nuts break free w no issue. It’s really not that bad if they come out. Good luck!! JD
VERY helpful video. I am restoring thd cab on my 1981 K30. Have acquired about 80% of the replacement fabrication panels it needs. Second order is placed.
My question is, did you notice if Energy have this exact kit but for crew-cab. I did a quick search, but seems like it's all standard cab stuff.
Funny that you ask that. I just bought an 89 crew cab dually. I haven’t researched it yet but i would give energy suspension a call and see what they say. Let me know what you find out glad the video was helpful. Wish I could be more help!! JD
Good info.I need to do this on my K20.
Thank you!
#1 My Bolts were 10.9 grade bolts that i replaced on my 04' Blazer ( 12 1.75 x 120 course thread ) Anything you want to get rid of the rust and reuse...Zinc primer And Or Rust paint
Thanks. JD
Pretty sure the cage nut is installed so you can square the cab up on the frame. I’m doing this today and If mine do the same I’m going to try a different method before cutting the floor I’ll post a video if if does 12:36
Sounds good and let me know how it runs out. You are correct they are used to square the cab just a bad design in my opinion. Had the same issue w my jeep! JD
Nice work John and Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you Tom and Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. JD
Lmc has complete kits with all hardware. Pricey 200. But im puting a new set on my 85 scottsdale
I looked at those kits but opted to go with Energy Suspension just from good experiences with them in the past. I did have to buy new hardware as well so the price was probably close to what LMC charges. Thanks for the info. JD
@@JDOffline what hardware did you use? Where did you get it from? If you said it in the video I missed it.
@@adamlombardo7550 I bought all new grade 8 bolts from ace hardware. Just matched up the size from the old ones. JD
Hey man how long are the two bolts that are for the radiator core support bushings? I know they are longer than the other 4. If you could let me know I’m going to go get some new bolts I just don’t know the length. Great video by the way!
Hey Tyler. I do not remember the lengths. I took the old ones to a hardware store and replaced them with grade 8 hardware. Sorry this wasn't much help. JD
I would think if you tact the nut with welder back to support after cutting the floor then use impact on the bolt maybe it would have worked out too. Just my two cents.
Good idea but honestly I don't think in my application that would have worked. Maybe if you had more access to the nut and could clean around it before welding. I didn't try it so I can't say it wouldn't have worked! I'm just glad those body mounts are behind me now.
Rides a whole lot better and don't creak and squeak and sound like are throwing a toolbox around with wrenches in it every time you drive over a bump in the road,I used to own a 82 Chevy k20 Silverado that just had new rubber stock bushings put back in it and they did put the new polyurethane style in the eyelets of the leaf springs and it still made quite a bit of difference in how the truck rode compared to several other k20 square body gm trucks I've owned or rode in... And it shows up in the bodylines and makes hanging fenders and doors just that much easier..
Yeah what a pain but they needed to be changed. JD
Wow 💪🏾 👌🏽
Thanks. JD
Good info
Thank you! JD
I'm doing this right now. How did you get the old mounts out of the metal carrier? Suckers are stuck!
Hey Darryl!! I literally had to cut out on the ones that were stuck and put in just a nut and bolt along with a large washer. Pain the you know what!! No body mounts I've changed on older vehicles have come easily. Good luck w yours let me know how it turned out. JD
@@JDOffline really appreciate the reply JD! I used a grinder on one then had to stop for travel. Put some penetrating lubricant in there before I left. Will let you know how it turned out.
Didn’t change the body line with the bed???? Having that problem
Mine did not but I could see that being an issue. Mine actually aligned mine better. JD
We got the same tires
They are great tires! JD
Hi nice video
So the old bolts and the new bolts are the same size
If I remember correctly I believe they are. Maybe a size larger thread pattern but same length for sure. JD
@@JDOffline thanks
Anybody ever tried one of those heat induction tools on the rusted bolts before trying to remove them? I’m gonna try this in the near future.
I have not but have seen that work well in some situations. JD
Hey buddy, so I did my body mounts today (chevy s10 blazer frame off rebuild) and I have the same PU bushings as you.
My problem is, when I tighten the screws with 75nm the lower bearing is strongly compressed and no longer sits straight. Actually, I can tighten the bearings only slightly until the lower part gives way. Did you have a similar problem? What torque did you use?
I don't remember having this issue. What bearings are you referring to? JD
Following
Thanks! JD
Once you put the new bushing in their you shouldn't have to go back in there again I don't think you going to live long enough before them bushing wareout sgain..
Haha you are probably right!! JD
It looks like you were tightening that cab mount bolt.
I promise I was trying to loosen them to get them off, tighten to reinstall. JD
Text, we're only supposed to last 10 years.
Trucks
My new body mounts will outlast me! JD
Good job and thanks sharing with us. Quick question if you happen to see this, is there any information on what the bolt sizes are?
I should have included that in the video and did not and now I don't recall exactly what they were. I know I got grade 8 hardware and matched up the length to the old hardware and got the thickest bolts I could that fit the washers, etc. That's about the best I can give you, again, I should have included that in the video. JD
That’s alright, I’m sure the info’s out there somewhere, it would just save a little time getting the hardware ahead of time, thanks for getting back though, I appreciate it