Love this book! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Most trailers are designed for conventional lumber, with out ripping. Spaces between the boards is usually not needed because the boards shrink as the get old and dry out. It's usually 11 2x8....or 10 2x10...I build theses trailers for a living.
Perhaps you can help me. I inherited an old flat trailer, with no wood floor. There is a channel on the front and the back of the trailer. How do I put the boards in so that they catch in both channels? There are no screw holes in the support angle iron underneath, so somehow the old boards were put in place without being screwed down.
Darrin Miller you can cut the bead of the weld at the end of the angle iron so you can lift it out and put the boards in and then either tack it back down or screw it back on like in this video. I did it to my trailer and it went well.
Repainting the cross braces of the trailer while the floor was out would have been value added. Also treating the floor boards with Thompsons water seal before installation would have added years to the wood.
Once I went to that trouble think I would have cleaned it up and give it a coat of rust proofing. Know your a busy man, is that what we call in Aussie treated pine!!!!
Here’s a trick for everybody...... every time I change the oil in one of my vehicles I collect the spent oil in a 5 gallon pail and then every couple or three years I pour the oil onto the deck of the trailer and sweep it in with a broom I would buy for $1.50 at the dollar store which I would later throwaway Oiling of the deck does 2 things: it prevents the deck boards from rotting and it prevents the deck from shrinking without doing my trailer which has a 16 foot long footprint lost 2 inches, when we tried to load cargo which was exactly 16 feet long we were unable to close the back doors,these 2 inches came back a few days after the trailer deck was oiled
Thanks for this video! I struggled for hours trying to figure out how to approach this on my trailer and didn’t realize that rear lip came off. Thanks again!!!
I read an earlier reply to a similar question. The original poster said he would do that at some time in the future but he was in a hurry to get a functional trailer up and running.
Another great video. Thanks for posting. I especially like how you skipped over the "quiet cursing and frustration" phase of the stuck bolt situations...
+Trey Horsey it may look bad, but it’s really not. I did look at everything to make sure there wasn’t any serious issues. There’s a lot I COULD do, but at this point I’m just interested in a new floor.
Never use por15, you cannot stop rust without getting rid of it first. Painting over it will never stop it. The only way to stop rust is by removing it. Rust is a chemical reaction and once it has started it is too late. You have to remove it, then prime the bare metal, then paint/seal over the primer. Por15 is a gimmick.
Treated material as a replacement, is it silly to say a coat of paint adds to the longevity of the timber ?, not sure but my dad always painted most projects so I’m in that mould of thinking 👍
Probably not in the middle as the hand cut line would not be as straight. For cosmetic aka symmetry, he could have cut the piece on the other end, but that's more work and no one really cares as it is just a trailer bed :)
Technically all it really needs is oil. There's no point in finishing a trailer bed. The finish will just come off quickly if you use it with any regularity. Any kind of oil will do, just do it every so often. Not like every month, just maybe once a year or two.
Nice job. One suggestion i have though. Instead of waiting until the last board to rip. Get your measurements and put the ripped board in the center for a more symmetrical look. Thanks
My plan is to start in the middle and work to the sides. That would leave the narrowest boards on the edges rather than in the center. It's one concept anyhow.
Guys, HERE is our Savior YaH The Heavenly FATHER (Genesis 1) HIMSELF was Who they Crucified/Pierced for our sins and “HERE IS THE PROOF” From the Ancient Semitic: "Yad He Vav He" is what Moshe (Moses) wrote, when Moses asked YaH His Name (Exodus 3) Ancient Semitic Direct Translation Yad - "Behold The Hand" He - "Behold the Breath" Vav - "Behold The NAIL"
At 5:09, you nailed the retaining bar down onto the boards. But the boards (with retaining bar) aren't connected to the trailer at all, right? So a crazy bump could lift the whole rear of the boards a couple of inches and it could start sliding rearward, correct? Especially if you removed the rear gate in order to haul kayaks or something a bit longer than the bed. I think I'd put 4 or 5 holes in the front retaining bar, too. The one that's still welded down. And driving screws in there would mean the boards couldn't "jump" and slide out of the deck, no matter how big of a bump you hit.
I see that the same way. I have almost the same front and rear angle iron set up on my trailer with no screws holding the boards down to any cross members in the middle, EXCEPT i made sure to use bigger screws to go through to the frame at the end of the trailers frame at the end.
I didn't see that you reattached the boards to the frame and the angle on the back looked like you only screwed it into the boards, not the frame. I'm just concerned that the boards could potentially come loose when hitting large bumps in the road.
+John Card I mentioned adding screws to the bottom center of the boards through existing holes, but the underside of the back I added washers and screws to the angle iron. So, everything is secured.
How did you remove the bolt that was screwed to the angle iron to hold down the boards? I’m working on the same project and having a hard time unscrewing the bolts because they are so rusted
That was a good simple project. When you were struggling with the screw, you said you couldn't get under the angle. You could have cut through the wood to get to the screw. We tend to forget that we can destroy the piece we are replacing. While you had the deck off did you inspect the wiring. On my nearly new trailer, the wiring is not up to my standards. I haven't felt motivated to crawl under it to fix the wiring.
+B Templeton Haha you’re right I could’ve cut the wood, and yes I did check the wiring. I was going to add the whole wiring thing to the video, but that it was a little bit off topic.
I dont think he did. It looked like the front edges were under the front angle iron and the rear was also covered by that piece of angle iron. I just wondered if the rear boards could still bounce around because i dont think the 3 screws were into the trailer frame to hold them all down.
I always wonder why people say they "Went ahead and did it" or they're going to "Go ahead and do it". Where did they go? Hey Cisco...I theenk it's time to went!
I simply cleaned the head out with a screw and compressed air and worked the impact forward and reverse until they came out no lube. The lube will make the heads strip
Question: my trailer has 2 rows of additional fasteners along braces a couple of feet fore and aft of the mid brace. Did you just decide the additional fasteners were unnecessary?
How did the gap work out after the new boards dried I have read different opinion in regards to spacing new wet pressure treated boards for my 5x8 utility trailer.
Both pieces of angle iron on my Big Tex trailer are welded. Anyone else have this? Is there a technique to replace the floor boards w/o cutting those welds?
Just wanted to share this, Kroil is far superior to WD 40 to get into stuck screws and bolts in about the same soak time. try it once you will agree. It might cost about 8 bucks a can but it is worth every penny.
Don't space boards, pressure wash that shit once boards are out, let dry, orbital sand, clean with acetone, let dry, prime, paint all the frame and then in 6 weeks stain the boards. Just the things to do to do it right-
Those are M30 star bolts. Your bit was probably too small and stripped the bolt pattern. How do I know this? Because I did the exact same thing! Great video, thanks!
Stone and Sons Workshop I'm about to do my 5x8, the stamped metal is shot and I'll take the real bad stuff out and want to go back with maybe 2x6 boards or I kind of thought about looking at those poly decking boards since I only haul my mower and some light stuff around the house.
On your stripped screw heads try an angle grinder, and make a slot in the head and try a Flathead bit. while all the boards are off might as well get a wire brush and get as much rust off the framing as possible, and repaint it.
Love this book! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Most trailers are designed for conventional lumber, with out ripping. Spaces between the boards is usually not needed because the boards shrink as the get old and dry out. It's usually 11 2x8....or 10 2x10...I build theses trailers for a living.
Perhaps you can help me. I inherited an old flat trailer, with no wood floor. There is a channel on the front and the back of the trailer. How do I put the boards in so that they catch in both channels? There are no screw holes in the support angle iron underneath, so somehow the old boards were put in place without being screwed down.
@@darrinmiller8030 I'm in the same boat. I have no idea how to put the new boards in
Darrin Miller you can cut the bead of the weld at the end of the angle iron so you can lift it out and put the boards in and then either tack it back down or screw it back on like in this video. I did it to my trailer and it went well.
Hmmm
What should I use on my 6x12 with out having to rip the last board?
Repainting the cross braces of the trailer while the floor was out would have been value added. Also treating the floor boards with Thompsons water seal before installation would have added years to the wood.
Straight and to the point. This is how a DIY video should be done. Subscribed.
Unless you paint the frame with rustproofing primer and paint, the job is only half done, and will lead to unnecessary work in the future.
What kind/size screws to hold the boards down to the metal or you only screw the ends of it
Thank you, my dad passed away recently and left a run down trailer that needed replaced. That info was just what I needed. Thanks again
Once I went to that trouble think I would have cleaned it up and give it a coat of rust proofing. Know your a busy man, is that what we call in Aussie treated pine!!!!
Just use old engine oil after you change your cars oil why waste of money with store-bought stuff
or at least some Undercoating to kinda slow down the rust creeep..
Put a liberal amount of Boiled Linseed Oil every 6 months and the wood on that trailer would last forever…
Here’s a trick for everybody......
every time I change the oil in one of my vehicles I collect the spent oil in a 5 gallon pail and then every couple or three years I pour the oil onto the deck of the trailer and sweep it in with a broom I would buy for $1.50 at the dollar store which I would later throwaway
Oiling of the deck does 2 things: it prevents the deck boards from rotting and it prevents the deck from shrinking
without doing my trailer which has a 16 foot long footprint lost 2 inches, when we tried to load cargo which was exactly 16 feet long we were unable to close the back doors,these 2 inches came back a few days after the trailer deck was oiled
Thanks for this video! I struggled for hours trying to figure out how to approach this on my trailer and didn’t realize that rear lip came off. Thanks again!!!
WD 40 is a water displacer(WD stands for “water displacer”)NOT a penetrating oil. Use Kroil, PB blaster, or ATF/ acetone mix.
PB is my go-to as well.
You are correct, but wd40 does offer some penetration. Check out the comparison on project farms channel. Very interesting results. 👌
Awesome, that was easier than expected! Mine is going to need the same treatment soon, but I won't put it off a long as you did ;)
I'm really surprised you didn't paint that metal with a rust stopper paint when you had it exposed
Same thoughts
I read an earlier reply to a similar question. The original poster said he would do that at some time in the future but he was in a hurry to get a functional trailer up and running.
Another great video. Thanks for posting. I especially like how you skipped over the "quiet cursing and frustration" phase of the stuck bolt situations...
Shhhh.... Lol. Glad you enjoyed it.
Why wouldn't you Por15 or at least Rustoleum the frame before attaching the boards? Lots of rust on those cross bars!
+Trey Horsey it may look bad, but it’s really not. I did look at everything to make sure there wasn’t any serious issues. There’s a lot I COULD do, but at this point I’m just interested in a new floor.
He seemed like a nice guy but he aint no Bob Villa.
Never use por15, you cannot stop rust without getting rid of it first. Painting over it will never stop it. The only way to stop rust is by removing it. Rust is a chemical reaction and once it has started it is too late. You have to remove it, then prime the bare metal, then paint/seal over the primer. Por15 is a gimmick.
No need to space newly purchased treated wood. It’ll dry and shrink. Good job!
Absolutely!
Treated material as a replacement, is it silly to say a coat of paint adds to the longevity of the timber ?, not sure but my dad always painted most projects so I’m in that mould of thinking 👍
+Sumo's Projects if I do anything, I’ll eventually add a sealer. I really dislike painting. Lol.
I did not know that angle iron could come out. That makes replacing the deck so much more easier. Thanks for uploading this video!
It’s welded in on my trailer 😢
My Tip: For cosmetic purposes only, I would have placed the cut board in the centre of the trailer floor.
Probably not in the middle as the hand cut line would not be as straight. For cosmetic aka symmetry, he could have cut the piece on the other end, but that's more work and no one really cares as it is just a trailer bed :)
The only thing I plan to do different on mine is once the boards are cut to size apply the preservative on all sides then install
Technically all it really needs is oil. There's no point in finishing a trailer bed. The finish will just come off quickly if you use it with any regularity. Any kind of oil will do, just do it every so often. Not like every month, just maybe once a year or two.
Just to go ahead and let ya know, none of this worked.. cracked me up.. lol
+Jake Thompson Lol! I tried.
Jake Thompson it didn't work you mean you weren't smart enough to figure it out laugh out loud dumbass
Nice job. One suggestion i have though. Instead of waiting until the last board to rip. Get your measurements and put the ripped board in the center for a more symmetrical look. Thanks
A wise man speaks 👍👍👍
Definitely, was told to start in the middle and work out. You can possibly make the two end boards more narrow if possible.
My plan is to start in the middle and work to the sides. That would leave the narrowest boards on the edges rather than in the center. It's one concept anyhow.
No need to space them as they WILL shrink.
This is awesome thank u guys just what I needed for my 6x12! 👍🏼
What wood did you use for your 6x12
I'm gonna go ahead and do that. I went ahead and did that. Do you ever get to far ahead??..😀😉😉
Good job, Shawn. That repair should last you quite awhile now.
+steve walker yes it should. Thanks.
Yea just install don't clean and paint it that would be wrong
The best and simplest video for this that I have seen. Great job and thanks!
I have found PB Blaster to be a great rust penetrant. Regardless, the sawzall worked. Nice job!
+Jeremy Condon never heard of that. Thanks!
I found Freeall is much better anything else. I tried PB blaster and it did crap. Then I used Freeall, loosened in minutes.
Guys, HERE is our Savior
YaH The Heavenly FATHER (Genesis 1) HIMSELF was Who they Crucified/Pierced for our sins and “HERE IS THE PROOF”
From the Ancient Semitic:
"Yad He Vav He" is what Moshe (Moses) wrote, when Moses asked YaH His Name (Exodus 3)
Ancient Semitic Direct Translation
Yad - "Behold The Hand"
He - "Behold the Breath"
Vav - "Behold The NAIL"
Don't space wet wood. When it dries, the space will widen further.
kiln dried wood shouldn't shrink much
Used spray undercoating on the siderails after cleaning off loose rust.
At 5:09, you nailed the retaining bar down onto the boards. But the boards (with retaining bar) aren't connected to the trailer at all, right? So a crazy bump could lift the whole rear of the boards a couple of inches and it could start sliding rearward, correct? Especially if you removed the rear gate in order to haul kayaks or something a bit longer than the bed.
I think I'd put 4 or 5 holes in the front retaining bar, too. The one that's still welded down. And driving screws in there would mean the boards couldn't "jump" and slide out of the deck, no matter how big of a bump you hit.
I see that the same way. I have almost the same front and rear angle iron set up on my trailer with no screws holding the boards down to any cross members in the middle, EXCEPT i made sure to use bigger screws to go through to the frame at the end of the trailers frame at the end.
I used Thompson water seal and it lasted one winter. I am thinking of drilling pilot holes and useing tapcon screws for the centers . Will see .
I didn't see that you reattached the boards to the frame and the angle on the back looked like you only screwed it into the boards, not the frame. I'm just concerned that the boards could potentially come loose when hitting large bumps in the road.
+John Card I mentioned adding screws to the bottom center of the boards through existing holes, but the underside of the back I added washers and screws to the angle iron. So, everything is secured.
Stone and Sons Workshop Ok, just wanted to make sure all was secure.
How did you remove the bolt that was screwed to the angle iron to hold down the boards? I’m working on the same project and having a hard time unscrewing the bolts because they are so rusted
That was a good simple project. When you were struggling with the screw, you said you couldn't get under the angle. You could have cut through the wood to get to the screw. We tend to forget that we can destroy the piece we are replacing.
While you had the deck off did you inspect the wiring. On my nearly new trailer, the wiring is not up to my standards. I haven't felt motivated to crawl under it to fix the wiring.
+B Templeton Haha you’re right I could’ve cut the wood, and yes I did check the wiring. I was going to add the whole wiring thing to the video, but that it was a little bit off topic.
Great point. Thanks.
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop My boards were so rotten that a grandson had a great time with a sledgehammer beating them to death.
Why is it that California Home Depot's only get the ugly redish colored pressure treated lumber. Why can't we get some of the yellowing colored stuff?
That last piece of angle iron needs to be welded on each side to the trailer to hold the boards down at the end
Does anyone ever seal the floor even if it’s pressure treated, if so what works best or does it make sense to splurge on cedar boards?
What size of wood did you use?
Nice video, I have a 5×10 heavy duty trailer that needs new flooring.
That was a great video.
Thanks
Super helpful - thanks for the time saver !
Put Zero space between as they shrink in 3 days.
Both my angle irons front and back are welded in
They welded mine shut I gotta cut the metal lip over the wood on one side. Tsc trailer....
A manual impact screwdriver is priceless for rusted screws
What type of screw did you use to secure the decking to the trailer?
I dont think he did. It looked like the front edges were under the front angle iron and the rear was also covered by that piece of angle iron. I just wondered if the rear boards could still bounce around because i dont think the 3 screws were into the trailer frame to hold them all down.
Great job now I have the motivation to do mine
Do you have to space the oards? Or can you have no space between? thanks
I used my reciprocating saw and just cut off the bolt heads
Now you can take a trip to see Matt Cremona and buy some slabs!
Here in Arizona wood gets recked by heat and sun in just a few years. Thanks for this.
Recommendation for drilling on trailers that DONT have bolts already? 1 hour in.. 4 broken bits. Not one complete hole
Definitely late response, but for future reference use cutting fluid to help the bit last longer.
But I can't believe you didn't paint the trailer frame first.
He commented on why he didn't earlier.
no screws or bolts in boards down the length only ends>?
You didn't explain how you hold down the lumber in the center of the trailer..
Just screws through the angle iron.
And they are all held down by the angel iron lip like he explain a few times
How does it keep it down for a right snug fit
Excellent job on the trailer. Love your vids. Thanks for sharing.
+LesterElm1 Thank you!!
You should never space new boards.
Did you screw the boards back on from underneath the trailer?
That's my question as well. Seems like the trailer will flex and eventually warp or cause welds to fall under load.
Thanks for the tip great video
Were there any screws besides the end caps that you re-installed? I'm getting ready to do this on my trailer. Thanks.
I always wonder why people say they "Went ahead and did it" or they're going to "Go ahead and do it". Where did they go? Hey Cisco...I theenk it's time to went!
Did the torx screws come out easily :12-16 second mark. And did you screw the boards back into the frame?
What sise it's the wood
I simply cleaned the head out with a screw and compressed air and worked the impact forward and reverse until they came out no lube. The lube will make the heads strip
Question: my trailer has 2 rows of additional fasteners along braces a couple of feet fore and aft of the mid brace. Did you just decide the additional fasteners were unnecessary?
How did the gap work out after the new boards dried
I have read different opinion in regards to spacing new wet pressure treated boards for my 5x8 utility trailer.
What size boards did you use?
I have 1x6
I would like to go up
2x10
Will it work?
You mention securing the board’s underneath the trailer. Is there a video on those? Thx
Both pieces of angle iron on my Big Tex trailer are welded. Anyone else have this? Is there a technique to replace the floor boards w/o cutting those welds?
So you don't put the same type of bolts back in? You use wood screws from the bottom? Will that hold as well as the original bolts?
If that would isn’t pressure treated I would have stained it before putting it down to make it last longer. Looks clean though
Just wanted to share this, Kroil is far superior to WD 40 to get into stuck screws and bolts in about the same soak time. try it once you will agree. It might cost about 8 bucks a can but it is worth every penny.
Thank you for this vieo. Would you tell what kind of wood you use or is the best for this project? TY
Thanks, good job. When you get to my age you will realize the benefit of knee pads.
Nice simple fix...............They don't always go that way...... Was that a rebuild trailer?
I wanted to put my safety glasses on watching your attempt to remove that stubborn screw! Lol
Is the new wood just laying in there or is it necessary to screw it down? Seems like it would be tough going through that metal.
What kind of wood.
I just did the samething today , how did u take off the screws that u cut off ? Did u use a punch?
Should have treated the rust and painted frame before putting in new wood
How much would that cost in 2021 lumber $?
Mine has those same rusted mounting screws. I will cut them too and wood as well. Nice vid.
Why not drill the head of the screw out seems a lot easier to me
What about boards with screws down the boards?
what size are the boards? 2x6? 2x5?
Don't space boards, pressure wash that shit once boards are out, let dry, orbital sand, clean with acetone, let dry, prime, paint all the frame and then in 6 weeks stain the boards.
Just the things to do to do it right-
Where do you find wood that straight?
Perfect instructions, thank you sir
Those are M30 star bolts. Your bit was probably too small and stripped the bolt pattern. How do I know this? Because I did the exact same thing! Great video, thanks!
foodboy767 ...... T30
Durn nice job, looks good and done right!
It’s solid. 👍
Stone and Sons Workshop I'm about to do my 5x8, the stamped metal is shot and I'll take the real bad stuff out and want to go back with maybe 2x6 boards or I kind of thought about looking at those poly decking boards since I only haul my mower and some light stuff around the house.
On your stripped screw heads try an angle grinder, and make a slot in the head and try a Flathead bit. while all the boards are off might as well get a wire brush and get as much rust off the framing as possible, and repaint it.
At this moment i was just interested in a functional trailer. Later on I might rework the entire trailer.
What size were the boards
Might be a silly question but...Did you make the small gap between boards just for water drainage?
I never again put a space between the boards cause they will shrink in time creating the perfect gap..
You can treat the wood with used motor oil. Will make the planks last a long time.
Nice work Shawn!
+Vincent Alex Vigil Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the video
So did you only put screws in the end with the angle iron cap ?
Scratch that watched it over again