High Efficency Furnace Venting
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2024
- Visit www.mountainbreezeheatingandair.com for more info.
Explaining the difference of exhaust venting in a high efficiency furnace versus a standard efficiency furnace. Installation of Amana 2 Stage EC motor 96% efficiency shown.
Mountain Breeze Heating & Air, Inc. 303-288-2515
I finally know why my exhaust vent looks like the one in this video! Great explaination
Glad you benefitted from the video.
is it always 3 inch pvc or does it depend on the btu output of the furnace?
So you don’t need that long exhaust liner that goes up to the chimney with this furnace?bynthe way thanks for the video.
Does the fresh air intake pipe need to be pitched back to the furnace? Will it condensate?
If it was going out a roof with a concentric could it be installed right next to a static attic vent?
Great video appreciate you 👍
How much pipe is required? Is it mfc specific?
Can you make a video or explain location for return air flow vents? Thank you.
Got a bid for an Amana AM9S96 single stage multi speed furnace and contractor is only going to install an exhaust pipe. Said Amana heat exchanger is built big enough that it doesn't need an intake pipe. Is this the right way to do it. Thanks
Hi, I was hoping you could give me some advice. My parents had a new Amana furnace 6 roller (model AMES801205DX installed. Unfortunately they continued to have problems with it. The seller admitted they installed too big of a furnace for their house and replaced it with a Goodman 3 roller (model AMES800604BXAA). They did not receive any refund for the price difference. My dad has dementia and my mom has Parkinson. I think the company took advantage of them, but I can't find the prices for the furnaces. Any feedback you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin
Hey James I got a question for you today I had my furnace guy out to replace a leaky AC Cory unit while he was taking apart the furnace to replace this unit he found an obstruction in the exhaust side of the furnace apparently when the furnace was being installed five years ago one of the installers accidentally dropped a 90° fitting in the exhaust side which I would say it was blocking the exhaust by roughly 40% now again I’ve had this furnace going for five years and some pretty cold winters here in the Northwest and the heater is always worked awesome ,,my question should I be concerned. Thank you for your time sir I really like your videos
Nice clean venting and ducts work i can smell when is done with PRIDE that take years learning and learning not a easy task to complete 👍👍
On very cold windless days, whore frost would buildup and block my furnace air intake. I would have to go outside and use bottle brush to unblock it. I finally figured out that when there was little or no wind, the humid furnace exhaust was being drawn into the furnace intake and freezing. For a quick fix I placed a 3 foot by 3 foot sheet of plywood between the air intake and the exhaust until I eventually extended the exhaust another 16 inches away from the furnace air intake to more permanently solve the problem.
Super great video!
Amazing video, thanks. I have a 99% efficient furnace on order.
thanks, very helpful
How does this connect to duct work?
I have 2 in pvc on my trane xb90 80000 btu is that two small
My high efficiency HVAC vent through now a weird smell, should I be worried.
Those look like 5 inch pipes?
Do you have to increase the size of the pvc for short runs or is that only for longer runs?
The more 90s you use and length of run determine that
Just got a propane for a furnace installed but the fresh air intake is it hooked up and get fresh air from the basement is that OK
Yes
A few months a hvac guy install a high efficiency furnace and the drain goes up to the attic apparently, that seems wrong but 🤷♀️ any advise on what to do? Also I see 2 pipes going up to the attic, not to the side of the house. So you think it was installed wrong???
And the drain pipe has a pump what pumps the water up to the attic to a drain metal pipe that in in the attic
My houses furnace as 2" PVC. does it need to be upgraded to 3"
Not particularly. The manual for the furnace will tell you. Example- use up to 65’ of 2” pvc. Each sweep elbow counts for 5’ and each hard 90 counts 10’.
3” pipe is way greater than this so most companies avoid 2” to prevent their installation teams from screwing up. Plus less range of materials on trucks. I use 2” when I can.
I’m a new subscriber
Have you ever heard anyone complain about the loud exhaust? I had a Trane system installed and the exhaust is really loud. The neighbor is complaining it wakes her up. was it installed incorrectly?
I can send you a video. thanks in advance?
It actually operates like a gas engine. Gas and air go into the firing chamber inside the furnace, it is then ignited with a spark and exhausted to the outside. This process repeats itself several times a second. That is what you are hearing. It makes for a very efficient furnace, but also a very noisy one.
My high efficiency furnace the pipes are facing the south never had problems air quality is very good and if anyone suspects any kind of nausea and or Head aches due to their furnace or gas hot water tank there could possibly be a negative air pressure ..... call the gas company right away “ to come out and check the air quality for carbon monoxide it is a free Service and a good peace of mind )
I've had a high efficiency furnace installed. My neighbour and I both have two storey homes and the exhaust vent is located at the height of the floor joists between my two floors. Our homes are about 6 feet apart. My neighbour is claiming the exhaust is causing condensation on the outside of his vinyl-siding and is worried it will cause issues with rot.
Have you ever heard of this potential issue?
Where I live new homes are as close as 4ft foundation-to-foundation. The issue above has been addressed by installing a T pipe at the exterior end (oriented left to right rather than up and down) of the exhaust PVC pipe. This is city code here now.
1:27 that's what mine looks like and I don't trust it, it faces the west side of the house which is the direction wind comes from 80% of the time, ever since the new furnace was installed, I've had headaches around the back of my neck (nerve area)..as in carbon monoxide poisoning. I noticed on many houses the exhaust and intake are separated by about 10", and point in different directions.
I heard that the type you have in the vid (like mine) was mandated by good ole big brother and I'll be working to modify it so it doesn't kill me. They made it almost impossible to do any changes to it that don't require it to be totally removed and replaced which I'll do if I can't modify it.
Call in the gas company to measure your air quality with their sniffer it’s free doesn’t cost nothing it’s worth it don’t take no chances
Aren’t the intake and exhaust vents simply for combustion? It’s a closed loop system so none of that air being pulled in from outside should make it into your home. Unless your new unit has a cracked heat exchanger.
Shouldn't be an issue, but if you're worried just get a carbon monoxide detector, they're cheap.
I would strongly caution against using the termination kit shown in the video. I have 5 year old house with exact same termination kit. After 5 years all the hardiplank siding around the termination is rotten, has mold and will have to be replaced. The discarded fuse gases condense around the termination. These AC guys do their job and leave with everything looking nice and clean. The issue wont show until after few years. I wish I could post pictures as evidence.
I enjoyed reading your comment. Can you make a video showing it? Ours is 5 years old now. We are in north east Montana and our Furnace keeps quitting because both Vents are clogging with snow, but mostly Ice in this brutal weather we've been having lately. Going outside in blizzard -40° windchill to chip out the Ice buildup isn't so easy. I'm looking for a way to help stop that from constantly happening. Im hoping mold build up isnt the culprit.
I have this same issue on our 10 year old house with this exact termination kit and had to replace some of the OSB wall sheathing and fir out a new square wood piece for the termination. I reused the termination kit but have noticed that the same thing is happening again with our cold temps also in Montana. Scrap this unit and reconfigure with PVC pipe and a couple of 90s elbows.
@rd7866 same issue happens to me in Minnesota with too much snow blocking vents... I need to figure something out...
I thought code required the exhaust pipe be 30" above the inlet pipe if the two pipe exits were within 10 feet of each other. Obviously the sidewall's housing has the exhaust and inlet ends very close to each other. Won't that mean exhaust fumes could be drawn into the inlet pipe which then go back into the house (i.e., exhaust goes into the house), and that would also decrease efficiency because the fumes would displace air resulting in less efficient burn inside the furnace?
When I got a furnace inspection about a year ago, I was told running the condensate pipe atop the floor to the drain was against code. The pipe could not be underfoot. The condensate had get pushed with a pump to up to the floor joists, across the ceiling, down the wall, and then into the floor drain (which is close to a wall with the floor graded in that direction rather than the drain in the middle of the floor). I'm not sure if that was about the condensate from the furnace, or from the drip pan for the A-coil to catch condensate from the evaporator coils for the A/C. I just remember that running condensate pipes along the floor was a no-no.
Lee. The requirements for separation of exhaust and combustion air come from the fuel gas code look at section 503. More specifically for direct vent requirements which the code allows this. It would be interesting to ask a mechanical engineer who actually worked on designing this unit or the termination cap. What you say makes sense but the termination cap has been engineered from the manufacturer. Codes always allow for engineered solutions provided you demonstrate you meet the intent of the code and are not reducing safety.
That pipe on the floor looks like a trip hazard to me
Them 2 drain pipes laying on the floor suck.
Years and years of headaches immediately after the new furnace was installed, after my modification: 4 months no headaches, air feels fresher, still the "experts" want to tell me there was no problem..yeah right.
What modification did you make? I’m curious because I’ve been getting headaches since our new furnace was installed
That venting is a bad way, my Lennox high efficiency furnace (we bought in 2023) collects condensation inside the unit, and pumps it out through a 0.5" hose line, and the venting still goes the chimney like a regular furnace
Can anybody say TRIPPING HAZARD? And not just One But Two! At the least put the two PVC tubes together to cut the possibility of tripping in half for kids and adults.
Thank you. I have a furnace in my attic they installed with a 90 degree angle. It’s pooling water and my inducer won’t start. I’m gonna redo with a 45°