Clearly, you are a professional. Please post more videos for us beginners. I'd like to see a furnace replacement from draft assisted to condensing with a review of options and recommendations. Thanks
Good job, but there is one issue, combustion air pipe shouldn't be on the above Gas valve of furnace, The gas valve coil will burnt in few years due to condensation on gas valve. Either change the vent termination location from the middle of furnace or put drain trap with pvc pipe. There is special trap fitting available at carrier/ totaline.
Yeah, like a David Spade that has brain damage from breathing carbon monoxide poison gas for about 20 years, I don't like the looks of those two pipes being so close, looks like the intake could easily suck in the exhaust fumes.
Great video. Thank you. I am looking for a video that might answer a question I have. Can a vent have an elbow that drops down right before exiting the sidewall or does it need to be continually sloped up?
Exhaust shouldn't slope down at all. It builds up heat the closer it is to the furnace and can cause pvc pipe/cement failure. Intake should be boosted up and sloped down. You don't want extra moisture in your unit.
@@jaysonthomas630 My pvc exhaust sticks out the side of my house straight, but the installer put a 45 degree elbow facing down. No good? If no, I'll cut it off and how bout putting a screen & coupler like this video shows on the end?
Thanks for the video. I have a question for you. My house was built 5 years ago just like the one in your video and I’m wondering if I can extend both vent pipes upwards about one foot high cause I get a lot of snow and snow drift and my furnace turns off about three times per winter due to the snow and snow drift. Can it be extended upwards without causing any problems with the furnace. The pipes are 2 1/2 both all the way out.
Yes you can. Where I live and work they always want the pipes 12" above grade just for that reason. Just make sure you use long sweep elbows and keep the distance between intake and exhaust the same as they where.
Regular pvc. The intake doesn’t have to pitch back to the furnace, you just do that so it’s uniform with the exhaust. The exhaust does have to be pitched back to the furnace because of condensation. The water runs back into a trap inside the furnace and is expelled out the side at the bottom. You can’t pitch it towards the outside because the water would freeze at the end of the pipe and create an ice dam.
vent exit to the furnace. Where you drill your holes is determined by the manufacturers clearances, once holes are drilled you pipe your way back to the furnace and when your close enough you just connect the dots.
Cant have the thing sticking out like a happy pecker.. my ass would shin myself every damn time i walked by it.. or take it out with the mower.. im thinking of dropping the intake dowm then running the exhaust up another 5 feet to clear a small shed they stuck it behind.. i know people have a problem when they put too small of a screen on em and freezing up solid in the winter, but wonder if you stay within the spec limit of the hvac system if running them up with a little 90 pointing down or out would cause more water to run back down the line. My thoughts is if so then with such a small slope on em that water will end up sitting in the pipe a little and cause more buildup on the end.. hell i dunno, might just have to live with giving the house a little pecker i can avoid once i move that old shed.. gotta move it anyway because is only 2" from the end of the thing and i know thats not good.. anything blowing or sucking ive learned you gotta give em their room if you want em to keep on blowing and sucking, otherwise "my neck is tired" or "my jaw and throat hurts". So just give em their room and unless something else breaks down she'll still do the deed..
Also interested in this question. Having a problem with a 13 ft run to the exterior wall using 2-in PVC. Getting a three blink code intermittently sometimes I run fine depending on how the wind blows outside on a given day.
Its called a concentric vent yes it is normal, the exhaust y's into the pipe and travels along the outside of rhe pipe and is shot downwards at the top and the intake is on the inside and gets sucked in the top of the pipe.
For people living in cold climates this job is not complete. Snow will block those vents and cause the furnace to not fire up. Can you advise on how to properly add extensions on the exterior? Thanks!
I a DIY guy on my 95% furnace. You mention 1/4” slope per foot, dumb question I’m sure, but is the slope toward the inside and condensate drains to condensate tank/pump or drain to outside? Long question, sorry. Like video and thanks much, hal
@@Devilsfan-pd8ovThat’s not entirely true. Water pipes don’t have to be pitched. And to answer the question, the pitch is towards the furnace, not towards the outside.
@@Devilsfan-pd8ov When I say water pipes, I’m talking about supply lines, which don’t need to be pitched. What is a 3/4” condensation pipe? I’ve never heard of that. Edit: You mean the drain? Of course the drain has to be pitched.
What's the nest way to level pipes out the wall especially since you have the pitch ? Doesnt make sense unless you are coming out completely level and straight with out pitch.
were is the drain trap, Or don't u have very cool weather to make condensation. Or r u putting it in the furnace. I was told to put one in, so the water doesn't get to the furnace. Just saying....???
Is that why the furnace people told me to put 1 in. So it doesn't get to the furnace, to save wear and tear on it. It will also remove it so it doesn't restrict the intake, that could cause it to kick out. Just saying... They do it for a living, I don't.....
No you need the acidic water to drain back into furnace or drill a hole at lowest point of elbow before it rises to ceiling and have a tap and water line draining back into furnace drainline or into floor drain otherwise pipe will fill with water at the lowest point and either trip pressure switch and shut down furnace or reduce the exhaust gas flow which can fill your house with carbon monoxide
@@russelllangworthy8855 upside pipe only if its over total length specs on the furnace installation manual. Valve on intake to control O2 (oxygen) level on combustion. Dont use dissimilar material when secure pipes especially metal will cut pipe while vibrating. Dissimilar material never mean to touch each other will rust each other if metal. Its a electrical and mechanical code violation
@@hangngoaigiare You’re speaking a foreign language here. I’ve been an HVAC installer for 44 years and have never heard what you’re talking about. What’s an upside pipe? You don’t need to control the amount of oxygen for combustion air. You can leave the door off the furnace permanently and it will run fine. You don’t have to worry about dissimilar metals when venting because you use PVC.
Outside of the house is flat out wrong and that is not a concentric vent.. I advise you to look it up so you know what it is.. That should not pass an inspection for a few reasons especially by me at least.. Clamps to high at the furnace for the vents.. 18in from top of furnace Max.. Should at min be at the start of the plenum or on the coil..you will be fine screwing into the coil if you don't use 4in screws.. Should not need to explain which exact screws to use because it's common sense..something screams your a plumber which is why you don't know these things and are using plumber knowledge on furnace venting.. Which is fine cause certain things plumbers dont ever have to think about because they are normally only used to dealing with water and air 99.9 %of the time.. .intake and exhaust must be 2 ft from each other outside where they terminate when not using a concentric kits and 4ft from windows (exhaust )..also depending where u live and receive snow.. Which is a vast majority of places.. Venting must be 18in to 2ft from the roof line or ground because of snow drifts can block them...clearances needed are in the installation booklet and are pretty much standard across all brands.. Even though your township might allow closer clearances the manufacturers booklets won't..so if some accident did occur and u followed township ordinances only and not the booklet from the manufacturer don't expect to sue the manufacturer cause they will see it and you are out of luck if Nana does of asphyxiation from carbon monoxide...that is why manufacturers clearances must be followed and not township because they go beyond township ordinances..you are going to suck exhaust back in through the intake the way it is..common sense says high pressure will be attracted towards lower pressure..nuff said..concentric means a pipe inside of a pipe that share a center my man..Concentric kits only use one hole with one pipe that goes through the wall not 2..thats the point of the kit.. There is a pipe inside of a pipe and that's how it terminates outside.. You still run 2 pipes until you get to the wall you are going through..and your slips or drives you used looks like dog turds...dont take it personal
Wow i thought vents looked good only thing I would mention up here in the north would have kept them at least 24” above grade for snow not sure where this is.
Sound like you are a a HVAC professional. I was wondering if you can help me. I have someone wanting to sell me something I don't think I need. Earlier this year I extended my 2 inch id gas heater exhaust pipe out to 35 feet it was 25 feet. I did this to vent the fumes away from where we sit on the deck. I made a mistake when extending it because I did not use enough support straps and it developed a low spot in the pvc pipe as a result it developed condensation that got stuck in that low spot and it probably froze or had water built up, causing my furnace to overheat. I fixed the slope , no low spots the water drained out right now and the slope is right. I think I am good, but the Hvac Company told me that my 2 inch intake and output should not be placed under deck and I needed to increase 2 inch Id pipe to a 3d ID pipe. . Do you know if they are telling me the truth when they say it should not be under the deck and that I need a 3 inch pipe to go 35 feet. I think since I fixed the slope issue that I might be good with the 2 inch id ran 35 feet?
@@davidhazen2394 You should NOT be running anything under a deck and why do you need 25ft or more of pipe? Who ever install your furnace must have looked for a space closer to a venting point or don't install it at all
This is one of several termination options in most installation manuals, as long as the exhaust extends 6” passed the intake they can be side by side. I personally turn the intake down like shown and raise the exhaust about 18” above and keep both above snow line for the area.
Clearly, you are a professional. Please post more videos for us beginners. I'd like to see a furnace replacement from draft assisted to condensing with a review of options and recommendations. Thanks
I don’t think you want to learn from this guy
Rule #1 Hold phone horizontal.
Thank you for the video and info!
Love your video Joe Dirt
very nice explanation; thanks
Cellular Core piping is not recommended for direct vent installations. The layout is fantastic and looks great.
I wish you'd do a video on thermostat and relay wiring on forced air furnaces
Is regular pvc recommend for exhuast output? From what I have read is regular white colored pvc wont last long.
Good job, but there is one issue, combustion air pipe shouldn't be on the above Gas valve of furnace, The gas valve coil will burnt in few years due to condensation on gas valve. Either change the vent termination location from the middle of furnace or put drain trap with pvc pipe. There is special trap fitting available at carrier/ totaline.
what happens when the exhaust is not vented correct per the slop? My furnace broke and the heating guy said that was a problem.
Why does this guy sound like david spade?
Yeah, like a David Spade that has brain damage from breathing carbon monoxide poison gas for about 20 years, I don't like the looks of those two pipes being so close, looks like the intake could easily suck in the exhaust fumes.
With his nose plugged. does EVERY sentence have to end with a high pitch ??
Because it is
Schedule 40 pipe should be used not foam core for furnace vents
Great video. Thank you. I am looking for a video that might answer a question I have. Can a vent have an elbow that drops down right before exiting the sidewall or does it need to be continually sloped up?
Exhaust shouldn't slope down at all. It builds up heat the closer it is to the furnace and can cause pvc pipe/cement failure. Intake should be boosted up and sloped down. You don't want extra moisture in your unit.
@@jaysonthomas630 My pvc exhaust sticks out the side of my house straight, but the installer put a 45 degree elbow facing down. No good? If no, I'll cut it off and how bout putting a screen & coupler like this video shows on the end?
Thanks for the video. I have a question for you. My house was built 5 years ago just like the one in your video and I’m wondering if I can extend both vent pipes upwards about one foot high cause I get a lot of snow and snow drift and my furnace turns off about three times per winter due to the snow and snow drift. Can it be extended upwards without causing any problems with the furnace. The pipes are 2 1/2 both all the way out.
Yes you can. Where I live and work they always want the pipes 12" above grade just for that reason. Just make sure you use long sweep elbows and keep the distance between intake and exhaust the same as they where.
In Minnesota it's 12 inches above the maximum expected snow height.
Is that cell core pvc on the exhaust side too???????
Is there enough flex in the pipe for the 1/4 inch slope when using 90 degree elbows to fit square into the fitting or is there a trick for that?
yes there is enough flex to get 1/4 inch slope, too much slope will give that super slide look and will make the vertical pipes unlevel
Does the PVC pipe coming out of the furnace get cemented?
First thing is read the manual! Especially if it's a Carrier furnace.
Nice job. Are those pvc for intakes special or just regular pvc? Does intake need slope also ? What is purpose of slope?
Regular pvc. The intake doesn’t have to pitch back to the furnace, you just do that so it’s uniform with the exhaust. The exhaust does have to be pitched back to the furnace because of condensation. The water runs back into a trap inside the furnace and is expelled out the side at the bottom. You can’t pitch it towards the outside because the water would freeze at the end of the pipe and create an ice dam.
Do you work from the furnace to the vent exit or do you work from the vent exit to the furnace?
vent exit to the furnace. Where you drill your holes is determined by the manufacturers clearances, once holes are drilled you pipe your way back to the furnace and when your close enough you just connect the dots.
Cant have the thing sticking out like a happy pecker.. my ass would shin myself every damn time i walked by it.. or take it out with the mower.. im thinking of dropping the intake dowm then running the exhaust up another 5 feet to clear a small shed they stuck it behind.. i know people have a problem when they put too small of a screen on em and freezing up solid in the winter, but wonder if you stay within the spec limit of the hvac system if running them up with a little 90 pointing down or out would cause more water to run back down the line. My thoughts is if so then with such a small slope on em that water will end up sitting in the pipe a little and cause more buildup on the end.. hell i dunno, might just have to live with giving the house a little pecker i can avoid once i move that old shed.. gotta move it anyway because is only 2" from the end of the thing and i know thats not good.. anything blowing or sucking ive learned you gotta give em their room if you want em to keep on blowing and sucking, otherwise "my neck is tired" or "my jaw and throat hurts". So just give em their room and unless something else breaks down she'll still do the deed..
Do you glue them into the furnace?
I thought it was 1/4 " per foot sloping away from the unit, yes?.. in the video it looks like it slopes INWARDS and towards the unit
@@L_Bozo791 wow! Did not know that! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Looked good until the s slip supports near the furnace.
So if it’s a long run you need 3” running all the way to your furnace?
Also interested in this question. Having a problem with a 13 ft run to the exterior wall using 2-in PVC. Getting a three blink code intermittently sometimes I run fine depending on how the wind blows outside on a given day.
interesting...so you slope back towards the Furnace???
seems like that would force condensation back towards the furnace
That’s how it’s intended. The condensation is expelled at the bottom of the furnace.
My exhaust and intake are y junctioned together and only one pipe goes to the outside. Is that allowed? It’s been working fine for 14 years
Its called a concentric vent yes it is normal, the exhaust y's into the pipe and travels along the outside of rhe pipe and is shot downwards at the top and the intake is on the inside and gets sucked in the top of the pipe.
For people living in cold climates this job is not complete. Snow will block those vents and cause the furnace to not fire up. Can you advise on how to properly add extensions on the exterior? Thanks!
Both pipes should 90 up where they exit the wall to allow for anticipated snow level. The exhaust would then 90 out and the intake would 180 down.
Exhaust pipes can never slope downward after exiting the furnace. The fumes must continue to rise after exiting.
Where does the condensation go then?
@@simplerickbar2602 Back into the furnace, and eventually into a P Trap to get plugged, or if not, out to a condensation pump to a sink or drain hole.
Can this be done with a boiler that runs on oil ?
Please can I get some info my vent line is accumulating water any suggestions
what type of pvc and you use and not use?
I a DIY guy on my 95% furnace. You mention 1/4” slope per foot, dumb question I’m sure, but is the slope toward the inside and condensate drains to condensate tank/pump or drain to outside? Long question, sorry. Like video and thanks much, hal
Anythjng plumbing is 1/4 per foot and you need a clam every 4 feet so just drop the pipe an inch per 4 foot
@@Devilsfan-pd8ovThat’s not entirely true. Water pipes don’t have to be pitched.
And to answer the question, the pitch is towards the furnace, not towards the outside.
@@russelllangworthy8855 water pipes have pressure on them that’s why a 3/4 condensation pipe needs pitch
@@Devilsfan-pd8ov When I say water pipes, I’m talking about supply lines, which don’t need to be pitched. What is a 3/4” condensation pipe? I’ve never heard of that.
Edit: You mean the drain? Of course the drain has to be pitched.
@@russelllangworthy8855 you never heard of 3/4 condensation line? I’m guessing you don’t do hvac ?
What size of pipe has to be use 96% 80k btu
Is this David Spade?
Support every 5 feet is needed for 636.
What's the nest way to level pipes out the wall especially since you have the pitch ? Doesnt make sense unless you are coming out completely level and straight with out pitch.
He was saying level, side to side..not the projection
Level side to side. Pipes are all pitch up same angle and very minimal. The pitch can be 1%.
were is the drain trap, Or don't u have very cool weather to make condensation. Or r u putting it in the furnace. I was told to put one in, so the water doesn't get to the furnace. Just saying....???
That's stupid. The condensation is suppose to flow back to the furnace.
LoL
The furnace itself has a small trap built into it before it drains into a pump or main drain
Is that why the furnace people told me to put 1 in. So it doesn't get to the furnace, to save wear and tear on it. It will also remove it so it doesn't restrict the intake, that could cause it to kick out. Just saying... They do it for a living, I don't.....
1 inch what? I'm a service technician but not everyone that does hvac knows everything so I'm not sure what they told you please explain.
can the pipes slope DOWNWARD after they exit the furnace?
I think they slope upwards away from the furnace.
No you need the acidic water to drain back into furnace or drill a hole at lowest point of elbow before it rises to ceiling and have a tap and water line draining back into furnace drainline or into floor drain otherwise pipe will fill with water at the lowest point and either trip pressure switch and shut down furnace or reduce the exhaust gas flow which can fill your house with carbon monoxide
Not if you want to wake up after running the furnace in the winter.
@@jessjohn6157 whoa. I bet there are a lot of people who gained some knowledge from your comment. :) Thank you and I send you my respect as well.
If its with in spec i dont think upside the vent pipe is a good idea. You may have to put in a ball valve to adjust that 02 input.
What are you talking about?
@@russelllangworthy8855 upside pipe only if its over total length specs on the furnace installation manual. Valve on intake to control O2 (oxygen) level on combustion. Dont use dissimilar material when secure pipes especially metal will cut pipe while vibrating. Dissimilar material never mean to touch each other will rust each other if metal. Its a electrical and mechanical code violation
@@hangngoaigiare You’re speaking a foreign language here. I’ve been an HVAC installer for 44 years and have never heard what you’re talking about. What’s an upside pipe? You don’t need to control the amount of oxygen for combustion air. You can leave the door off the furnace permanently and it will run fine. You don’t have to worry about dissimilar metals when venting because you use PVC.
why transition from 2 to 3 in pvc? serious question
I don't know about here but I do know in plumbing we would increase pipe in colder areas where things are likely to freeze.
If your length of pipe for exhaust is greater than 25 feet you have to have larger pipe
@@HVAC914You also have to take into account the number of 90s. Each 90 is equivalent to 5’.
Outside of the house is flat out wrong and that is not a concentric vent.. I advise you to look it up so you know what it is.. That should not pass an inspection for a few reasons especially by me at least.. Clamps to high at the furnace for the vents.. 18in from top of furnace Max.. Should at min be at the start of the plenum or on the coil..you will be fine screwing into the coil if you don't use 4in screws.. Should not need to explain which exact screws to use because it's common sense..something screams your a plumber which is why you don't know these things and are using plumber knowledge on furnace venting.. Which is fine cause certain things plumbers dont ever have to think about because they are normally only used to dealing with water and air 99.9 %of the time.. .intake and exhaust must be 2 ft from each other outside where they terminate when not using a concentric kits and 4ft from windows (exhaust )..also depending where u live and receive snow.. Which is a vast majority of places.. Venting must be 18in to 2ft from the roof line or ground because of snow drifts can block them...clearances needed are in the installation booklet and are pretty much standard across all brands.. Even though your township might allow closer clearances the manufacturers booklets won't..so if some accident did occur and u followed township ordinances only and not the booklet from the manufacturer don't expect to sue the manufacturer cause they will see it and you are out of luck if Nana does of asphyxiation from carbon monoxide...that is why manufacturers clearances must be followed and not township because they go beyond township ordinances..you are going to suck exhaust back in through the intake the way it is..common sense says high pressure will be attracted towards lower pressure..nuff said..concentric means a pipe inside of a pipe that share a center my man..Concentric kits only use one hole with one pipe that goes through the wall not 2..thats the point of the kit.. There is a pipe inside of a pipe and that's how it terminates outside.. You still run 2 pipes until you get to the wall you are going through..and your slips or drives you used looks like dog turds...dont take it personal
My god, you have a lot of time on your hands..
Wow i thought vents looked good only thing I would mention up here in the north would have kept them at least 24” above grade for snow not sure where this is.
Not supposed to use foam core
Rule #6, don't install combustion air pipe above gas valve.
Why is that?
So many rules he doesnt know the most important one VENT AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE OUTSIDE WALL
Sound like you are a a HVAC professional. I was wondering if you can help me. I have someone wanting to sell me something I don't think I need. Earlier this year I extended my 2 inch id gas heater exhaust pipe out to 35 feet it was 25 feet. I did this to vent the fumes away from where we sit on the deck. I made a mistake when extending it because I did not use enough support straps and it developed a low spot in the pvc pipe as a result it developed condensation that got stuck in that low spot and it probably froze or had water built up, causing my furnace to overheat. I fixed the slope , no low spots the water drained out right now and the slope is right. I think I am good, but the Hvac Company told me that my 2 inch intake and output should not be placed under deck and I needed to increase 2 inch Id pipe to a 3d ID pipe. . Do you know if they are telling me the truth when they say it should not be under the deck and that I need a 3 inch pipe to go 35 feet. I think since I fixed the slope issue that I might be good with the 2 inch id ran 35 feet?
@@davidhazen2394 You should NOT be running anything under a deck and why do you need 25ft or more of pipe? Who ever install your furnace must have looked for a space closer to a venting point or don't install it at all
Rule #5 don’t DIY some pipe supports out of some scrap tin laying around the job site. That’s some non union shit.
How is this even legal ?
Voice makes this video hard to watch.
Even I know you dont put the intake next to the exhaust like like
This is one of several termination options in most installation manuals, as long as the exhaust extends 6” passed the intake they can be side by side. I personally turn the intake down like shown and raise the exhaust about 18” above and keep both above snow line for the area.
Bad work.....
That flue looks terrible
That looks like crap
I dont understand why get pvc cement all over the pipe 🤦♂️
The purple that you’re seeing is the primer. It has to be visible for the inspector, although I agree with you. This is a pretty sloppy job.