CRC valve cleaner before and after valves and power figures - Is it the best valve cleaner?
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- CRC intake valve cleaner before and after comparison of the intake valves on a direct injection engine. Pictures of the intake valves before and after the clean and a power run on a dyno before and after the clean.
This is supposed to be one of the best chemical intake valve cleaners on the market for direct injected engines.
Here is a link to CRC valve cleaner: amzn.to/2Amwf55
The above link is an affiliate link and Conquer Driving may receive a small commission if you make a purchase via the link but it will cost you nothing.
Here is a link to the Hydrogen Engine Clean video:
• Hydrogen Engine Carbon...
Funny I used this stuff on a MK7 Golf R and the difference was night and day. I even checked them again 10,000 miles later and they still look good. Of course my car only had 25, 000 miles on it when I first did it so I imagine if you had a lot more miles and build up, at a certain point it might need a physical cleaning. The fact that yours actually looked worse after the CRC kind of indicates that it knocked loose carbon deposits from elsewhere.
If you use this stuff routinely it works extremely well and you can avoid expensive or time consuming mechanical cleaning methods.
If you are in europe, you get multisport injection. Where you have fuel sprayed directly on the valves. You want have problems.
@@YS-kb9nc Not any more, that was only true for the older cars, now they are all DI only, I believe since the face lift 7.5.
@Private Eyes I would do it 300-400 miles before each oil change, or every 10K depending on how often you change your oil.
I've done carbon cleaning on my Ford 1.8 diesel engine using Normfest diesel intale cleaner, I could see the effects in the intake manifold pipe but I had used 2 full cans and was spraying in longer bursts, like 3 seconds at a time. Where spray was hitting directly the carbon deposits it cleaned manifold to bare metal. I did not dismantle manifold so I will never know if the valves got cleaned just as well but I only did it as a precaution and part of service and never had problem with the car anyway. Cheers for the video.
Spraying it down in the hole causes puddling. You have sprayed it into the intake via straight on for atomization..
The hole is directly above the throttle body. So I was spraying it directly onto the butterfly valve which is as close as I can get to the intake ports.
Interesting, I just did the same on my 2013 Camaro with the GDI engine. Afterwards I filled the tank and drove like normal for a week. I picked up roughly 70 more miles on that tank of fuel than I normally get. Too, although I don't have access to a dyno, the mid-range feels stronger during acceleration. Maybe it's just me, but your before & after photos look flipped, I can't see the cleaner ADDING carbon deposits.
Cleaner won't add carbon deposits but they're still building up. I seriously doubt this would add 70 miles to the true range
I would suspect driving style and conditions would play a bigger part in that improvement.
@@ConquerDriving 60 to 70 miles per tank equals between a 3.1 and 3.6 mpg increase (19 gallon tank). Not hard to believe when you consider the engine has 120,000 miles on it and was probably severely carboned up. Not to forget, my 'normal' driving is all highway, with the cruise control set at 70 mph, 100 miles a day. A car gets its best economy when driving steady state like that on the highway. Now if my travels were all inner-city, stop and go trips, I would also be suspect of such a significant gain. The factory rated highway MPG is 29, I was getting 25, so I don't see an increase of just over 3 mpg as being suspicious.
@@ConquerDriving I mean there's significant improvement in the before and after pictures so I'm confused as to why you claim it doesn't work?
I mean sure it obviously won't clean it 100% on the single can when they are that bad but it obviously works
@Phuong AMG Nguyen My Camaro isn't turbocharged, I just removed the intake tubing and sprayed it right into the throttle body. According to CRC, you would spray it before the turbo to clean the impeller blades.
Yea I did it on my 2015 impala with the 3.6 and i felt way more torque and gas mileage way better
Thanks for the video!
Cyl 1 Valve 1 (The before is down and bit hard to see, it could be that there is no effect)
Cyl 1 Valve 2 (The before is way down to see anything)
Cyl 2 Valve 1 (The before has carbon all around the valve and in the after you can see some metal of the valve)
Cyl 2 Valve 2 (The before has carbon all around the valve and in the after you can see some metal and even the shape of the valve)
Cyl 3 Valve 1 (The before has a huge amount of carbon not only on the valve but even on the metal of the intake and in the after It seemed to remove almost all the carbon on the metal intake and even give form to the valve shape)
Cyl 3 Valve 2 (The before is just clogged up the after is also clogged up but you can see it had some tiny effect on the back of the valve)
Cyl 4 Valve 1 (The before has some thick carbon on it and no valve shine the after has much thinner carbon and actual valve shine)
Cyl 4 Valve 2 (The before has some thick carbon on it and no valve shine the after has much thinner carbon and actual valve shine)
The images are of great quality and I appreciate your effort and work to bring them to us!
From what I see the product is cleaning the valves and that's great!
Why is it great?
Most shops use air hammers to do the job... no one torques the motor to spec as the manufacturer tells them... Unless you do it yourself properly
So yeah... I prefer the least invasive methods if they work... The more work they do on the motor with air hammers the more likely they are to do damage that will show overtime...
Not to speak of cleaning chrome valves with abrasives gives me the chills... chrome is not as durable as steel... after the job, it could be they will be more susceptible to rust due to coatings getting removed.
Most shops use air hammers to even remove your tires and that's something the manufacturer tells not to do, negligence is amazing...
I do think that if you used the product more aggressively and more than once maybe it could show better results due to how neglected these valves are...
They likely designed the product in CRC to remove a certain amount of carbon since X amount of chemical is designed for X amount of carbon and not damage the catalytic converter
It's really good seeing someone on YT take the empirical approach as opposed to simply offering a (usually unqualified) opinion. So thanks for the vid. 👍
Incidentally I came here after seeing a video on this subject by a mechanical engineer. His position was you can slow down the build up by doing regular (6 monthly) oil changes, minimising short trips and doing bi-weekly 1 hour+ runs on the motorway. And as for removal there was in his opinion no satisfactory way of chemically cleaning the intake, which makes sense as burnt on carbon is quite unreactive and would probably need to soak in the solvent for a while before becoming soft enough to shift.
Of course be nice if car manufacturers made intakes easier to remove and included additional injectors to periodically spray the valves but I know it's not going to happen. In my experience most new car buyers just aren't that smart and seem to buy mainly based on looks and reputation and not the quality of the engineering or ease of maintenance.
LoC...People surely don't buy cars today based on the commercials the commercials tell little about the car just smiling faces and exterior glimpses of the car sometimes you might not even know you just watched a car ad. I remember when commercials we all about the car, it's features, it's engine, now they show a family going out on vacation...weird AND that's what sells cars?
@@harryberry474 People almost never buy cars based on ease of maintenence or even reliability.
You have to remember most new car buyers are not technically inclined and so technological superiority (as opposed to number and types of gadgets) rarely features in the buying decision. This incidentally is also why servicing and repair costs have risen (more difficult = more expensive) and why things which should be easy for the owner to do, like resetting the service reminder, sometimes require dealer level equiptment.
I agree. Regular oil changes are important and don't skimp to buy cheap oil. The CRC should be used as preventative maintenance.
@@peterhobbs4780 The advantage of more expensive oil is that it often has a better additive package which is effective _when used on long oil changes._ Otherwise so long as the cheaper oil meets the spec (usually A5 / WV 507 for petrol) then it doesn't really matter, assuming the oil change interval is short. And incidentally this is a debate I've had a few times and for some reason it often seems to attract refutation from the self described 'oil experts' or "oil engineers" (but never the chemical engineers or tribologists, interestingly).
You're right about intake valve cleaner though. Just hope that the intake manifold is actually removable or at least the values are somewhat accessible for maintenance without having to take half the engine apart!
I have a couple questions:
1: how many miles/kms are on the clock?
2: what kind of driving does the car go through on a daily basis?
3: did the directions say anything about a minimum engine speed during the drive?
you waited too late... the valves are too far gone, you need a media blast... then use this stuff at least ever 10k miles
Check out my video on Walnut Blasting.
Agreed, I believe most people wait way too long before they clean their GDI engines, they should be cleaned every 10,000 miles.
I did it several times on my Hyundai Sonata 2011. Being an automatic, what I usually do after waiting 1-2h for the thing to soak the valves, I take it on the highway, put it in manual shifting mode and drop the gear to 3rd gear (it will not allow me to get any lower). That takes the rpm to 5200 - and I keep it there for 20 min min. I can vouch that the sound of the engine decrease and it seems to help. But, unfortunately, I saw other videos where it shows that cleanup is moderate and the only proper way to clean is to completely remove the valve cover and do a mechanical scrape.
"It doesnt work". ... Leaves amazon affiliate link to product anyways...
You can always try, a lot of the comments disagree with me anyway.
The big problem with CRC and similar cleaners - if you have a car with a lot of carbon deposits (pick any MINI, KIA,BMW after 50K) the hard rock like deposits will go into the cylinders in big chunks. Most of derbies will pass trough, but some will do serious damage to the cylinder walls and rings. Unless you start spray cleaners from the very beginning (20K miles or less) you don't want to do it without manual cleaning first.
I used it on my Peugeot at 85,000km for the first time and it worked a treat. Mine is a 2015 model 1.6THP, so the carbon build up is not as much of an issue as it was in previous generation engines. But it worked well.
Thank you for the test, it confirmed something for me. I want nothing to do with DI.
His test was grossly unfair to CRC but you make a good point, I wish it had never been invented. MItsubishi pretty much started it (I think?) yet they quickly stopped selling GDI engines in the US because of "fuel quality issues". That seems to be a huge factor. Now we're seeing GDI plus conventional injection just to avoid this unmitigated disaster, so 16 injectors... and you can't sell a car like my B7 RS4 without proof of walnut blasting because people have seen videos like this !?#%!
hardkrow...so you're going to be driving a 2000 model year car for the rest of your life? I felt that way too but bit the bullet and bought a 2017 Alltrack, I think about the DI problem all the time and it's a real shame this is what the engineers came up with, they had to have known this was going to be a problem...and the board of directors said go for it
i did this treatment to my 1.6 gdi hyundai.after 1 hour i drove my car at 100 km/h in fourth gear at 4000rpm. But i drove the car more agressive at the begining and in the second gear at 4000-4500rpm rpm a huge cloud of smoke was released. my fuel cosumption was better after 4-5 days, 0.5l less. The gdi cleaner is not cleaning the valves immediately, he works like 4-5 days after the treatment was made.
I did leave the car several weeks before testing it.
How many miles you had it done ?
@@freepomeroon The first treatment was done after 78k km.
how many miles when you try the treatment ?
CRC claims it works for up to 1,000 miles after. When I used it, the was a giant puff of smoke when gunning my thing.
It helped your reading the pictures backwards.
I own a mazda cx5. Did a valve clean this week using brushes and carbon cleaner...only way to do this job or walnut blasting.. tried crc the week before and there was absolutely no change in the amount of carbon/sludge on the back of the intake valves
This product does work , if you use it properly !!!!!!!! I used it on my Mazda when it had
only 4000 miles on it. The next day there was black residue in the tail pipes. If you have
not done it for 50-60K , and might be the second owner of the vehicle , your engine might need
disassembly and manual cleaning. In my opinion , this process should be done at least every
10K. (the spray cleaning).
This. I had a used car that was well maintained (gdi), and only had to use CRC. I then had another used (gdi) that wasn't loved. That one required intake scrubbing.
thanks for such a thorough video..
These things do infact work, but the best way is to make sure valves are closed and spray it down onto the valves directly, that will disolve all the carbon, just gotta make sure you get everything out of there..
Excellent, rigorous scientific test -great work
Thank you.
Actually not even close to being a scientific test. Starting with the fact that the cleaner wasn't administered properly.
I have done chemical valve cleaning since the 1990's (Ammonia was a huge component of the chemical back then) and yes it does work and it works even better now, if done properly.
Now if you really want to get it as clean as new, then walnut blast it and stop wasting money on mechanics to R&I your engine twice and on dyno testing.
CRC does actually work to dissolve carbon build up. I've chemically cleaned the valves using this stuff by hand, just letting the port soak with the stuff and then brushing cleaned up all the carbon pretty easily.
I doubt anything sprayed into the intake will work with that many years of build up, it's only really to clean up light carbon build up as a part of a maintenance schedule.
Turbo cars accumulate carbon deposits on the intake valves at a much faster rate than NA cars. You also didn't state how many miles are on the car. Both of these factors have a large effect on how well the CRC GDV IVD works. If you wait so long that the carbon has cooked onto the valves, then I would expect to get the results that you did. It's like not cleaning your cooking oven for 10 years and then expecting Easy Off to do a perfect job of cleaning the oven with one application. In other videos of this product, some reviewers have gotten great results. I have a 2018 Subaru with the 2.0 NA engine. I've been using the CRC product every 10,000 miles. At some point in the not too distant future I will borescope the intake valves and see how everything looks.
It works for less severe cases. This is pretty far gone. You would need several treatments of this stuff to get meaningful results. Probably a lot got loosened up and redeposited. I’ve seen good results using this stuff more frequently and before it gets really caked up.
Trouble is, that stuff was £40 and the walnut blast was around £300 and worked perfectly. So with all the times messing with £40 cans of spray it makes sense to me to get it done properly. Depends on the car though as a walnut blast can cost a fortune. But of all the videos I've seen this stuff usually only makes a marginal improvement at best.
Well, none of senior HK drivers I heard they use either both of 2 ways in this video you mentioned. They use Redex instead. One of my senior British neighbor here who he used to be a vehicle machinist in UK police force, he told me the Redex works, but best use with opening the engine by taking out those spark plugs, then pour a little Redex into each cylinder just enough to cover pistons. "Next day or later if possible place a wrag over plug holes and turn engine over to expell excess oil from night. Replace spark plugs and start engine black smoke will come from exhaust as carbon is blasted off pistons and rings giving better ring and oil ring seal."
Sounds legit. But too trouble and too high manpower cost for me, as that bottle of Redex isn't costly. So I guess I still would like pour it into my fuel tank just as what its instructions written on bottle. I watched a British video which should likely be a British TV program on RUclips. The host man he tested Redex by just applying it into his fuel tank, and tested horse power before and after Redex kicking in, just like what you did. About 3hp ~ 6hp gained back after tested, and his car exhaust became a smoke bomb! lol Now even my Canadian friend asked me telling him which product and he wanna look for availability in Canada. Sometimes my engine warning light on, but hybrid system was still operating fine, so I scanned my car and usually "Catalytic converter: Efficiency below threshold" code got, just while the days are cold and load of water dripping out from my exhaust pipe. Yes usually the similar case like this, the carbon, stuck with water became concrete, so I even had to apply 2 doses at once in this case.
And that machinist neighbor he also told me that, he would love to use diesel instead of flushing oil while changing motor oil. How much flushing oil it needs, apply same amount of diesel, into the motor oil entrance, but not fuel tank, even for a petrol engine, after releasing old oil. Then just do all the rest changing oil process as usual. He feels like diesel doing better job than flushing oil, but I'm not sure and not tried yet. You may try for broke if you want. That surprised me enough. He will then first apply a little new motor oil, so it will mix with the residual diesel/flushing-oil. 2 months later, release this dose of motor oil and reapply new oil again, but don't have to reapply another dose of diesel/flushing-oil anymore.
Do not use diesel with engine oil, it will eat all the rubber seals.
@@paciencia0956 Do you mean the rubber seals inside the engine? That was suggested by a neighbor who is a retired traffic police officer that he used diesel as flushing oil while changing oil.
I’ve designed a system that sprays liquid into the charge pipe. But I don’t know what pattern to use. It uses a billet injector of 160lbs/h, a fuel filter as the fuel tank also because it has enough volume, and a pressure bottle of 4-6 bar and I pressurize it with a bicycle pump. I did a test on the “bench”with 40ms spray with 250ms pause and it seems to spray very fast so I’ll start with 5ms 300ms gap
Ps
Just calculate it. :) I need 5ms and 380gap that’s for 0.7lbs per 20min
Sounds very interesting.
Man you are so good! Keep going you deserve way more views 👍
Thank you.
Is your 124bhp power figure taking into account friction losses in the gearbox and etc?
The dyno would give power at the wheels, and the engine is likely power at the crank..
However 15hp lost over 150,000 miles isn't too bad so it's believable
The power at the wheels is 105 horse power. Brake Horse Power is the figure that's predicted at the fly wheel taking into account the loses so isn't perfect. In the comparisons I've taken the first bhp figure from the dyno, then used the increase or decrease in actually wheel power from the subsequent dyno runs to add or minus from the original bhp figure so there are no discrepancies. Especially as the loses will vary from day to day given the temperature and humidity.
Isn't that hole where you are spraying the cleaner pressurized by the turbo? Why not disconnect that pipe completely and spray directly into the throttle? I think a good part of the cleaning solution will pool inside the intercooler and not make it to the valves. Even if the solution make it to the valves, the best case cleaning is about 10% carbon reduction.
I really saw no difference in carbon deposits after cleaning. The hole I stuck the can straw down was directly above the throttle body. So I was spraying directing on the throttle body. I wouldn't want to take the whole pipe off unnecessarily as the car would run terribly and there would be less protection.
@@ConquerDriving Thank you for doing the experiment. The result of this product is quite variable. The only way to tell if it works for a particular car is to do what you have done. I have a naturally aspirated engine with a simple manifold that leads down into the cylinders, so pretty much all the solution went straight to the valves. Lots of smoke came out the tailpipe after the cleaning. Some folks have a manifold that leads up to the cylinder instead of down, so the solution has to fight the force of gravity to reach the valves. Sorry, it didn't work for the TSI engine. Walnut shell blasting is more expensive...would have been nice if it worked. Thank you for the post -- it's very helpful.
How many kms on your car without carbon cleaning ? if too many & really bad carbon build up then of course itll not work. you will need walnut blasting or manual cleaning, & then use crc spray once a year for cleaning... please us know your mileage ?
I was doing close to 30k miles a year in town. The way I figure it, the CRC is £40 a go, walnut blasting was £300. I may as well do a walnut blast every 60k miles as I know that works. It made a night and day difference.
why not take off the inlet manifold and spreay the valves direct ?
That's not how people are intended to use this product. If you do that you should definitely do a walnut blast.
Since the chemical cleaners are not working for you, your best option using a walnut media blaster to remove the carbon from your intake valves
I did a video on this.
@@ConquerDriving found it
Did you ever find a good solution? Ideally a not too expensive one - but if it needs stripping & doing properly just tell me now!
Cheers ✌️
Wish we got those cars here.
Tried this on my puretech engine, made zero difference. Wish I seen your videos before I wasted money :p
I wonder if it’s better for maintenance every 5-10k miles from when the car is new. Not when it gets this bad. Maybe more treatments will improve the results.
It's possible and I'm sure it affect some cars more than others.
Thank you for the information and Thank You for sharing !!
If i spray directly into throttle. There are chances that also the throttle will be clean?
Yes that's true, my throttle body was already clean though. The hole I stayed into meant I was spraying directly into the throttle body.
Thats great. Its like 2in1 . I will not have to use 2 Spray's
Wrong hole brother. They advise to spray after the MAF sensor because it needs to read MAF to not stall the engine while spraying. Did this procedure through the hole of the MAP sensor below the air box. Picked up MPG and punch immediately after. No engine knock or stall whatsoever while spraying.
If the MAF is unplugged the ecu will resort to base map with throttle position so the car will still run fine for the purposes of this. The throttle body is directly after the MAF so you can't spray it any later and I don't want to get the stuff on the MAF so I removed it.
@@ConquerDriving I'll need to correct myself actually. The sensor you are removing in the charge air pipe, is the charge air pressure sensor. This means that the MAF-sensor is still plugged into the intake manifold, below the air box. This is exactly why the engine is stalling when you spray through the MAP-sensor hole, because you're literally coating the MAF-sensor with spray.
@@GlekkeMatrak Could you tell me how you achieved this? You took of the air box and removed the MAF sensor. Did you then replace the air box and managed to squeeze the straw in the gap or reattach the air box but not put it back in position?
@@evropapagan5551 I didn't reinstall the air box. Just left it off during the procedure.
@@GlekkeMatrak Did you unplug the charge air pressure sensor? Is there a screw(s) holding the MAF sensor in place?
A pretty much guaranteed way would be to walnut shell blast the valves but that's more of a commercial solution.
You can get everything from Harbor freight. I just cleaned my valves on my 8v s3. Was easy to do and not only are the valves clean, the intake ports are clean.
Done the walnut blast in another video.
NOT a recommendation if your car has never had a valve cleaning as to this can cause and dislodge big pieces of carbon resulting in catalytic converters to clog and fail.
No the cylinder will burn and crush the carbon.
You supposed to used CRC at 10,000 miles or so, looks like those valves have more than that. Search for how to walnut blast the valves at this point is your best solution.
Heard alot of good things about walnut blasting. I think the CRC is meant for Newer Vehicles with little to no carbon on them to help maintain it. If your shits all fucked up and caked....Walnut Blasting is HIGHLY recommended.
The bottle says use EVERY 10,000 miles, not AT 10,000. There are other videos showing this product working.
I think it is a mistake to assume that one treatment with CRC will clean all that carbon away. The reason it looks worse after? It can only be because the CRC has started to lift and move the carbon. So that would make it clear that CRC is loosening the carbon (they say it dissolves). If you have 90k miles of carbon build up I think you have to assume you would need two or three treatments with the CRC can. The benefit of which is - for the average guy in the street its a whole lot cheaper method.
Three treatments would be £120 and a couple of hours of my time. I left it around 2 weeks after the CRC treatment before testing it and it didn't improve. Nearly 3 months later it was significantly worse. CRCs cleaner did not help at all. I've just done a walnut blast and it's running like new and significantly up on power. Check out my walnut blasting video.
How are you able to run the car without a MAF sensor hooked up?
It will do base map.
It may be a Air tempature sensor
How many km was on the car from its last intake valve cleaning, if at all?
90,000 miles
Is your engine 1.4 TSI from VAG? As far as I know, the sensor you took is NOT MAF. It shall be MAP which is safe to be used with this product, according to CRC.
Yes, it's the 1.4 TSI 140. I think you're right about the sensor also.
Try the teraclean or walnut blasting will sort it out
Walnut blasting is my next attempt.
Conquer Driving walnut is more expensive option as it requires the removal of intake and closing of valves.
Could I request you to try the Mobile Carbon van business? It’s x6 cheaper than walnut and they run the can for 1 hour.
Where did you buy that "stick" that push the throttle?
It's a pull up bar, it's my girlfriend's, I don't know where she got it from.
How many miles was on the car when you tried cleaning the valves?
I can't remember now, but I'm sure I mentioned that in the video. Check out my hydrogen cleaning video as I definitely mention it there and it was done around the same time.
Conquer Driving wow you’re a loser; you dont even remember the miles; useless
Looks like you left it to long, it is supposed to be routine maintenance not a miracle, just joking how many km on the odometer at the time of the video?
About 145,000 miles I think.
You made several mistakes in your methods. Waited too long to use CRC, and didn't use it correctly. For an engine as bad as yours, you needed to take off the manifold, and spray directly onto the back of the valves and let it sit on them. Then it would clean the crap out of them. There are many videos proving this.
I did what was said in the tin.
It looks like he sprayed it in the wrong area. Why not in the air inlet after the air filter housing??
I sprayed it directly onto the throttle body (butterfly valve).
Funny thing is .. other channels gave us different results
Mine are very bad. The results are normally minor from my own research.
Truth is we are using it in diesel engines.. although CRC mentioned not to do it but we are.
Not a very clean result but significant impact on performance.
But for your case I think it's been a way too long since it gum up and hardened.
Good info
Thank you.
Say what you like, but you did spray the wrong hole. The best place for the solution is the PCV valve or brake vacuum line where it can make direct contact of the valve heads. Hope you didn't use the "wrong hole" on your assistant, very fuckable.
I sprayed it directly only the throttle valve which is recommended.
I think the issue is the steering wheel is on the wrong side lol
I think you use the wrong hole. That's why it.didnt do anything to clean your valves. It has to be a better way for turbocharged engines
Definitely the correct hole, it says directly onto the throttle body. Walnut blasting worked a treat though.
Are you sure its carbon that's robbing you of power and not pitting in your valves and seals?
Yes, I resolved it. I have a video on walnut blasting explaining how.
Dunno man, it looks to have penetrated the carbon deeply enough to soften it, causing it to swell and in one image move the carbon down the valve(?) making it look wider (ie. worse) than before?
In which case it may improve with additional driving but failing that, at 1/40th of the cost of a walnut job per can a second application isn't unreasonable given the high buildup on your engine and I suspect it'd make a massive difference if you don't wait too long. Thanks for the before and after images, hugely appreciated. I just did my B7 RS4 and despite expecting NO improvement (I'm going the two-can route cos I don't think mine has ever been done) my rough idle disappeared completely - apparently it cleans spark plugs 🤣
The can was £40, did nothing. Walnut blast was £300 and it solved my problems and made the engine run like new. Watch my video on walnut blasting.
This stuff cost me 1600 dollars for two new cats. Be CAREFUL
Ouch, that was unlucky!
How many miles you had on it ?
This stuff is gas, diesel, and a light cleaning agent in an aerosol can. Acts just like as if you had lort injection
Those cans don’t work. You need to take the intake manifolds off and soak brake cleaner fluid on the port and valves in order to remove carbon buildup
With all due respect, I think you did not do this test any justice!
The valve cleaning agents should be applied way, way earlier and at intervals to prevent a terrible carbon deposit build up like that, preventive not magic. Where will the big pieces go if they did start to come off, what will be clogged up, gasoline particulate filters, catalytic converters, etc.. aso.. Just take 2 sec to imagine that, could be that started to dissolve some of that nasty carbon and not loosen from the shaft and back side of the valves, terrible thought really. That bad of a case need manual cleaning and full service, oil swap etc afterwards. Cannot see what sensor that is, if truly MAF then sure don't spray straight onto it, some in the air close to is not the end of the world, if MAP you're ok or so they say.
Wow that’s so disappointing!
I’ve always used CRC GDI cleaner on my car. Now I’m gonna think twice. Would love to see what those mobile Carbon cleaners can do.
I have a video on hydrogen cleaning if you want to check it out.
I’ll have a search online for it.
Could you do one more market leading brand before you walnut?
Please review Seafoam.
Water guys. More shock cooling, dislodged the carbon buildup.
I believe this product won't work great with gdi cars that have a manifold intercooler like the 1.4 tsi, a good amount of the chemicals will be left inside it maybe.
Create a setup where you can spray through the PVC hose.
First, drive your car for at least 20 min so that everything is really hot and cleaner can soak into carbon. s
Get a stick between your driver seat and gas pedal steady revving at 2200-2700 RPM, spraying short bursts until can is empty and then immediately shut off vehicle so that the cleaner can soak into all the carbon. Wait an hour for it to soak, then go for a 45 min highway drive, preferably keeping rpms high and steady around 3,000rpm while cruising on highway. Drive And have fun, the car will act funny while the cleaning takes place, but will eventually settle out and continue to get better the more you drive. But remember, city driving us the cause of this carbon so city driving for 30 min will not effectively clean the carbon, it must be highway!
Good luck!
& You're Welcome!
You did it wrong. You have to spry in the intake not throttle body
The throttle body is part of the intake.
Thats not how you do it that's how you don't do it need to rev it way more 3500 rpm X ten then let it sit for an hour than thrash it for an hour fixes diesel engines that are already at the scrap yard. Vary the revs more while the can still has spray left so each rev has a chance to work a different area. Can take a violently shaking car/engine and it will purr
I just followed the instructions.
The only way is the "Walnut Shell" treatment there I think.
This is the problem with modern engines that have to continuously eat their own crap, for the sake of emissions control !!!!
I have a video on the walnut treatment.
Big pieces of carbon can break off and clog your cats. Like mine did causing my 2012 Kia Sorento to go into limp mode
AceOspades this true happened to my Sonata the other day there needs to be a better way to clean the valves
@@kevingates9079 the same thing the garage told me bro. Take it them...have them do it....that way in the process if THEY break anything ,( which is unlikely ) they will be responsible for it. Had mine towed from the interstate. 3,000 dollars for new cats on my Sorento man. Sucked. Had to replace front and rear cats bc they both clogged right up.
AceOspades ya the shop I take my car , when I can’t figure out something, told me it’s only like a dealer thing, and ya know dealers charge me outrageous prices, but prior to me triggering limp mode I was able put like 4 cans in over a year, my car is very responsive after they cleared the code, so it’s just a con to having these type of vehicles
AceOspades just hopefully my cats remain ok, I plan to get a Toyota later down the line gdi engines make decent response and power its just a con if you want to keep these vehicles for a while
@@Red-Eagle How many miles you had on it ?
Belfiore....and after....😭! From Photo the valve is very very diet Before and after too
Stuff is garbage. I’ve used it too. Walnut shells are only true option.
Here's a clue....You need new heads....
Apply direct to the air intake for best results...
That's what I did, right on top of the butterfly valve.
Try seafoam
Thank you, but I don't think I'll try another chemical as CRC which is supposed to be good did nothing. Walnut blast next.
@@ConquerDriving yeah sounds good . I'll wait for the video
@@ConquerDriving What about the Walnut blast video? Have you uploaded yet?
Still working on that.
O’shatt