Awesome tip on the starter, saves a bunch of hassle and is super helpful to actually watch the valves open and close. Some notes from my amateur DIY: Pumping the solvents out is not worth it. Stuffing paper shop towels in there was much easier, cleaner, and more efficient. In my experience, fuel injector cleaner worked just as well if not better than the CRC product (ran out of CRC cleaner after the first 4 valves and switched) and is much cheaper. Understand, this is a messy and tedious job. It took me days to finish (also replaced both OFHG gaskets) - definitely recommend replacing the throttle body and manifold gaskets as well because it's quite a chore to get them off and you really might as well. At 108k miles, my intakes were caked. Took about 3 passes with the CRC cleaner and 2 with the fuel injector stuff before several more passes w brake cleaner. Drill w/ wire brush attachments were definitely appreciated (don't worry about scratching the metal). Also highly recommend long pick tools. The short ones didn't provide nearly enough reach or leverage and strained my fingers. Compressed air is also very helpful, otherwise u can't get the stuff that settles to the bottom (I bought a little vacuum gun on Amazon and it worked great). You can block the port with a microfiber towel to absorb the brake clean while u blast, then come back and blast out the dry bits (fumy process, respirator good idea). Last couple notes -- it is WAY easier to reinstall the intake manifold if you have someone help you push the pipe near the firewall back towards that direction before attempting to mount it. Struggled for about 20 minutes before my housemate helped hold that thing and then it popped right on. Lastly, that cable hub under the manifold is a bitch. Good luck.
Well done video. Went thru the process yesterday. A few things: 1. Allow PLENTY of time - I spent about 4-5 hours, and could have spent 2 more. 2. Suction is key - figure out a good way to suck the gunk out. I had several options on hand - 2 different spray bottles jammed up, but the cheap turkey baster plus a bit of tubing was best, but required coordination to keep suction going while pulling it back out so the fluid didn't escape. The shop vac suggestion from others would be waaaay better I'm sure. 3. I did 4 out of 6 valves, ran out of daylight, patience and hamstring pain tolerance :( Valves were better, but nowhere near the results shown. I'm sure with more time and spray I could have got there. Suspect they need a couple of half hour soaks each, easy. 110K km on mine. Dirty boys, about the same as V-DIY's. 4. I'm gonna look into a cheap walnut home build. Having gone through this now, I wish I'd just done that. This was pretty painful. 5 **Bonus point** The metal bracket under the valve cover, clipped into the plastic electrical junction box (around 09:15)? FORGET trying to slide the %$#^ing clips out, fools errand that will drive to drink! Unclip the 5(?) clips holding the bottom to the top of the junction box (front and sides, none facing rear of car) with a pick, and the top will come away with the valve cover. Easy!
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ? my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
A lot of people don’t understand the concept of this video. No surprise. RUclips is full of the most intelligent people on earth. I gotta say thanks for tackling this project the way you did. Gave me the confidence to do this project along with replacing my valve cover and oil housing gaskets. Big project but now I know my 90k mike N55 won’t give me typical issues for a while. I bought 2 cans of CRC and 2 cans of another “intake valve cleaner.” I gotta say the CRC was miles ahead of the other cleaner. Amazing how you can see the CRC foam and break down the carbon. The other cleaner was more like engine degreaser or brake cleaner. It didn’t come close to the effectiveness of the CRC. I ended up buying 3 cans of CRC, small pipe cleaners, picks, a used toothbrush, and my shop vac to brush, pick and draw out the fluid from the ports. Amazing. It worked like a charm and it started up with no warning lights or misfires after putting everything back together. Runs smoother at idle as well. Once again thanks. This was worth saving myself from buying an air compressor or walnut blaster. I think shops charge about 500 to do walnut blasting alone. I was able to replace my valve cover, replace my oil housing gaskets, and clean my intake valves for that same price.
I have done this intake valve cleaning 2 times now on my 335i and it took me several hours with seafoam and brake cleaner. I could have saved myself alot of trouble by using the CRC...thx for the video...
Great video. excellent camera work. I tried to take stills inside the intake port but could not get it light upyou were able to light it up and and do the work at the same time! I completed the job on my N55 in a 2012 335i, 166,000 Km. Some of my notes for N55: 1) The carbon was not that bad compared to other videos I have seen (mostly N54?) I think that N55 are less prone. I did the carbon clean anyway. 2) Your comment about hydrolocking the engine scared me shitless, so I took out the spark plugs and turned the engine over to make sure. 3) I used your engine bump method to turn over and close valves. 4) I used a brake vacuum pump to suck out the dirty fluid. 5) Do not use any metalic brush. I started to use brass brushes, but saw pieces break off the brush and switched to a tooth brush. I did an inspection with an endoscope to make sure I had it cleaned out. 6) Replaced the intake manifold gaskets and this was probably the only maintenance that was really necessary. The gaskets were still pliable but about 1mm narrower than the new ones. Boost is better now. 7) The only really tricky part about this job was removing the connectors from the DME. I did not see details on this video, maybe only relevant for N55. I found a you tube for N55 DME connectors after stuggling for an hour. The right hand connector in particular has a lock that must be pulled down to release it. The lock is hidden from view. Once off, the adjacent connectors can be removed easily. 8) I also replaced the MAP sensor on the manifold. I was getting implausible pressure codes when trying to boost. I replaced the MAP on the charge tube with no effect and so used the old charge tube sensor to replace the monifold sensor. It had a bit of dirty oil on it a nd cleaning may have been just as good. In the end I do not have the implausible pressure error code come up now. Maybe combined with point 6) Thanks agian.
I just completed the procedure and felt like I should contribute as the video saved me the $500 the shop charges. First off don't expect you valves to be as clean as the ones depicted in the video. Mines were really bad and I managed to only get 85% of the carbon off my valve. I suspect once the engine hits full operating temps and the remaining cleaner residue heats up the remaining 15% will be effected. I used the intake cleaner first to break up the carbon using picks and metal brushes. Then I filled the valve area with MMO Marvelous Mystery Oil and let it sit for a hour then gave it a good final scrub and removed all of the carbon chunks and liquid with my shop vac. Lowes sell a small detail kit for shop vacs that has utensils that fit in the valve area perfectly! No mess no fuss! My vac did not explode but do this at your own risk! Once I finished everything also removed my spark plugs and cranked the engine just incase something leaked passed the valves. Upon starting my car ran like crap at idle and seemed to have slight miss so I added .5 quart of MMO and a new oil filter and let the car reach operating temp. I then changed the oil and filter and the car purrs like a kitten! All and all I am pleased with the results and cash still in my pockets!
Hey, I just thought I'd offer up my experience. I genuinely think this is an excellent DIY video. Obviously a lot of time and effort went in to the production and testing of the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner demo'd here. I was so impressed by the results that I decided to grab a couple cans of the cleaner and attempt this myself. It made good sense to do add on an intake valve cleaning as I've been progressing through a series of intense maintenance & repair projects on my 2009 135i over the past couple months. Of note, my car has ~81K miles on the odo, but I had my intake valves walnut blasted back around 40K miles ago. I have been running with a BMS oil catch can since I purchased the car back when it only had 38K miles. However my stock turbos had blown oil seals which leaked oil significantly through to the turbo outlet, intercooler, and etc. That's now fixed thanks to VTT. 😎 So, last weekend I popped off the intake manifold and confirmed my valves were well in need of another deep cleaning. I proceeded to follow along with this video to the best of my ability. At first I made multiple attempts at spraying the cleaner into cylinder 1's intake (obviously with valves in the completely closed position); totally submersing the valves stems. At no point did I observe anything remotely resembling the "scrubbing-bubbles-like" chemical reaction displayed in this video. A bit of foam did appear briefly on initial contact, but quickly subsided in to a mild bubbling akin to a flat soda pop. Now, I do live in California, and I wouldn't be surprised if the stuff they sell out here is watered down... Anyway I let each application sit from 15 mins to 30 mins, along with a bit of gentle scrubbing using a small bottle brush and non-marring pick tool. I followed each application with a thorough vacuuming with my Shop Vac (equipped with a spare piece of rubber fuel line duct taped to the end of the nozzle). I can say objectively that the cleaner eventually did loosen and remove the larger carbon deposits on the valve stems to a good degree. Yet a moderate amount of caked on deposits remained on the stems, and the tops of the valves remained encrusted. I applied one final treatment and let it soak overnight. The next morning revealed only minimal additional cleansing. At that point I had burned through about 2/3 of a can on just one cylinder. I might have settled with that result and moved on to the next cylinder, but there was one very troubling side effect. The cleaner had created a thick semi-fluid sludge build up around the valve seals. There was just no way I could sufficiently clean it all off. I feared potentially damaging the piston/rings should it ooze down inside the cylinder. At that point I pulled the plug on the experiment and ordered a walnut blaster kit from Harbor Freight; and the proper vacuum adapter and wand from FCP Euro. I'll just need to rent an air compressor once everything arrives and be done with this little headache, hopefully next weekend.
This is very interesting. I've watched a lot of videos on this as well as one on my favorite (Besides "Vehicular DIY" of course lol) YT channel "0 to 60" where he had the intake removed from the car as he was doing an engine swap. So he decided to do some experimenting. He got cleaners and he got walnut tools and requirements so he could se. He seemed to have the very same troubles you were having here with the chemicals. so after he had some initial success with the cleaners he decided to use the walnut shells and then he had clean intakes but a huge mess in his garage as he didn't use the attachment you purchased for using the Shop Vac. SO it's a strange thing with this job. He is in Australia so maybe climate might be a factor in this? Not that I can make sense out of it. I've seen videos where folks had great success with the chemicals and some....Not so much. I found a very inexpensive vac adapter on Ebay for our intakes ($20 or less) as it is made with a 3D printer. Then I found a gun type nozzle with a small (not too small mind you) hopper container attached to the top of it for the walnut shell medium. All I have to do (I haven't tried it yet but reports are it works a charm) is hook it up to a small air compressor and use my shop vac at the same time and I should be able to clean then each out to perfection in no time with minimal mess. I live in Chnada.....Oops I meant Canada and we have a store called "Princess Auto" which sells lots of tools and all sorts of things like air guns with hoppers on top. Maybe Harbor Freight might have the same thing? Sorry for such a long reply.
@@OneManOnFire Well, over the course of the last 18 months, I actually ended up doing an almost a full restoration. After a proper walnut blast, new VTT turbos, and a rather long list of replacement parts, my N54 literally runs like new. Now I’m in the process of upgrading my diff to an Mfactory helical LSD
How were you not impressed with Walnut Basting. I have a Walnut Blaster that I use for my 2013 VW to clean to valves every 40,000 miles, and it takes me about 5 minutes per valve and they look like new again.
Dude, thank you so much!! I need to do this procedure on my 335i with 140K miles. I've been looking for a DIY video on this for a long time. You're video showed and explained everything I need to do.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ? my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
Got my valves done today, really wasn't too bad, just a bunch of elbow grease. Hardest part was getting the intake manifold back in. Prolly a good idea to disconnect the battery when doing this as I shorted the starter with the bracket on the bottom.
GentlemensTuck How? Your supposed to spray this stuff in while your vehicle is running. The whole point is to not take off your intake manifold. It's a great product. Just follow the directions and its 1/100th of the job this guy did
Bronze Whaler... It's like you didn't even read my reply. I never made any statement that you're calling out. Thanks for being so triggered tho, it gave me a good laugh. No shit this cleaner doesn't clean the intake ports or valves 100%.
Bronze Whaler Ok... let me dumb this down for you. The the whole point of that product is to not remove your manifold. It is supposed to be used every oil change for any actual results. That's a fact. Break cleaner alone would have worked more efficiently and would've been much cheaper as well. Unlike you, I didnt make my original reply a personal attack against the original commentor. As you did to me. I threw out an objectionable statement to start a conversation. But you must be the expert. It's not like you're on RUclips watching inexperienced individuals trying to complete shabby DIY projects. Especially ones not using proper tools and techniques. This whole video was hilarious to me. Using the starter to turn the crank... using a steal pick on aluminum... not changing the gasket out... using an old soap dispenser to extract the wasted product... no torque wrench... not changing his oil afterwards. All in all, if you found this video helpful or if you feel that you gained any knowledge from this video; than your original reply should be directed towards you.
Bronze Whaler Unfortunately I think you're an sjw who enjoys being a cuckold. So your opinion doesn't matter. You just stated that you failed... but you now think your superior in the DI realm. I am not broke tho, so I had my car blasted. Now I use CLR as a preventative. That is all it is really for. Have a good life and it was fun
Once you have cleaned up your valves installing a catch can system will help considerably. Now a day or two before your oil change follow the instructions on the can for spraying the cleaner through the intake. Don't forget to empty the catch can at the same time as the oil change. This could really help with your cars performance and the life of your engine.
Long but really good video. I am pretty sure my valves are just as bad at 120K+ miles. This is on my list of things to do after brakes, struts/shocks. Thank you again for your post! Really informative.
Had my 2008 335i serviced at BMW dealer costing me lot of money. I wish I could have followed your video DIY, thanks for the awesome tutorial and amazing video.
This was a helpful, detailed, and valuable video. Thanks a lot for taking the time to post and provide the information. I did walnut blasting on my 2010 535i (for the first time) and I followed all the steps in this video. Bumping the starter was cleaver and helpful as well. Keep you the great work and again, thanks!!
When doing a partial teardown. I like to give the engine a good shampoo a day or so before the job. As well as I remove parts clean them then condition them ready to be replaced you will like the end result and it really helps when working on a clean engine.
CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow instructions on can. 2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets 26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1 hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem handled.
From your instructions its literally just like seafoam. That stuff works through the intake for sure. Only difference is you don't need to let the seafoam sit for an hour. Works well though. When the car stops smoking after revving it up, you're good to go
Also, CRC recommends heat-soaking it, but since you have your manifold open, you cannot run the engine. Maybe try heating up the valves with the heat gun or something. It's similar to cleaning a BBQ grill, you can get alot of gunk out by heating the grill versus cleaning a cold grill. Just a recommendation.
Great job buddy! Yes, it is amazing what a difference you notice afterwards. Install yourself an oil catch can and extend that next cleaning. I did mine at 60k and now at 123k and runs like yours does without another intake cleaning so far.
Even better is to look into tapping and plugging the intake runner port holes to the valve cover and externalize your low-side PCV system (via RB Turbo's kit) through a low-flow catch can (like a mishimoto or cheap ones on amazon like Tasan Racing that have the sintered metal air/oil separator). This way, you separate the valve cover from all boost, making it less likely to crack and/or make the gasket leak. Also, under vacuum conditions, having those holes plugged keeps un-separated oil mist out of the intake runners (because externalized PCV would then redirected this mist to a catch can first, before the separated air goes back to your throttle body). This maintains crank case vaccum as well. I catch 3x as much oil in my mishimoto low side can than the burger motorsports "high side" can. I run both.
@@CATPLAYING No, there are holes in the head that lead to the valve cover's integrated PCV system - it basically dumps crankcase oil mist directly on your hot valves. There's a kit you can purchase from rob beck that allows you to bypass this system with a more effective catch can. To implement properly, you should take the valve cover off, tap the ports, and install a plug into the port to block it off. This completely separates the head from the pressurized intake tract, and helps prevent you from cracking a valve cover from boost pressure.
I have a 2006 325i 150,xxx miles I've been watching your content I know I'll get it to 180,xxx brought car at 148,xxx changed my vanos solenoids , air filter , put in my halo eyes . Going to do m3 front arms , with either b4 or b6 bilstein shocks , front brake pads. New fluids .Might throw a 330i short diff in the late summer
Every time I hear this guys voice, I begin to think that I’m going to have to reverse engineer the entire vehicle Edit: All while in my pj’s and flip flops.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
Mohamed Ahmed Fathi ❶ all he used was a plain wire with alligator clips on the end of them. You could do the same with a regular bare wire. You could go inside the car and press the on button in order to roll the car over as long as there are no spark plugs inside. Both accomplish the same goal, rolling the car over with no spark plugs in order to expel any fluid that drained into the cylinder
Crc is not available in my country, I used some carburator cleaner(noticed similar boiling like reaction with the deposits), and liqui moly valve cleaner, worked wonders, surging issue on light trottle is GONE!! Thank.s for the vid, gave me the courage :D
I was Curious if RUclips had any videos on this service and see how other people are Cleaning Intake Valves on BMW's. I;m a Master Tech and done this procedure many times and with the New High Pressure Direct Injection Systems Intake Valves are getting Carbon up Sooner Because the Fuel Injector is Not over the Intake Valve Injector is on top of Cylinder Head. On the Older Injection systems Perform Induction Cleaning First than Run Few Cans of Injector Fuel System Cleaner with Chevron or Shell Premium Gas top off the Tank and drive the car after couple Tanks Intake Valves Should be Clean along with Intake Manifold and Top of the Piston Cylinder Head Chamber too. I just Worked on 2011 BMW 535I Twin Turbo Had to remove Intake Manifold to Replace Oil filter Housing Seals and I knew those Intake Valves were going to be Carbon up sure as shit they were Cleaned Them with Zep Carb Cleaner Long Seal Pick Narrow Tooth Brush Spray a lot of Cleaner scrub with old ToothaBrush Lol I have a old Brake Bleeder with Long Hose works on Compressed Air and Sucks out the Fluid out from Intake Port or can use Paper Towels Cut sheet in 1/4 trips ball them up push strips down into the valve let it Soak for few seconds than pull out paper towel strip long Needle Nose Repeat till Clean Dont let the Cleaner set to long especially Over Night did that once just seemed make it worse when Dried took longer to Clean, you can Due things to Prevent This Carbon Build up .1 Induction Cleaning every 30K miles 2.Use Good Fuel&Fuel system Cleaner 3. Change Engine Oil every 5K miles Dont do it at 10k if you wait that long the Engine Oil Turns into Carbon Monoxide Hydro Carbon Mud Oil Damages Engine Rubber Seals, Gaskets and Crankcase Vent Hoses- PCV Valve and than over time dirty Engine Oil slowly Drips Down the Valve Stem Seal Down Intake Valve Guide&Valve Stem than Crystallizers into Carbon on back of the Intake Valve thats how Carbon Builds up on back of Intake Valves also the Engine Crankcase Vapor thats Induced by PCV Valve goes to Intake Manifold while Engine is Running shut it off turns into oil and that eventually Builds up on Intake valve Too. thats 40 years Pro Mechanic Advise and Gentleman did this video did good Job
thank you for the great info Mr.Klaus , i wish you make vids too, and i have a question though, is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
I use sea foam at the brake booster hose to suck it into the intake periodically like two or three times a year to keep the build up from happening. I would suggest just using compressed air with a rag over the port once the chemical has done it’s job to get all that left over gunk out. But again love your channel, keep up the good work 👍
Interesting way to use the product. Looks to work way better than other liquid cleaners I’ve seen people use like carb cleaner. Thanks for sharing. You had me dying at @22:10 though in reference to the paste bits, “if only I had something to extract it...like something suction...” like a shop vac?? 🤣 I get it wouldn’t work to loosen the paste but anything you did loosen would easily be sucked up by a vac with a narrow crevice accessory. It could also be used to extract excess fluid so that does end up in the cylinder. I still prefer a walnut blast to just this although I might use this to speed up the process. Spray some in to soften it. Come back in 10 minutes, blast it, rotate, repeat.
Tried this myself, and after spraying the cleaner in the ports and letting it sit (the first time for half an hour, every other time until I noticed it wasn't bubbling) before removing it, I can say that there was not a whole lot of difference, even after about half an hour of scraping at cylinder one's valves and letting it soak through, I couldn't even see the metal of the valves, and it looked identical to valves that were not cleaned. After three valves and no change I finally gave up and put it all back together. This was after 72000 miles as well, but there was quite a bit of carbon built up, more so than the video. If your valves are as bad as mine were, this is not the way to go. Otherwise, great job explaining everything, TIS missed a few connectors that left me scratching my head before I ended up here.
That stuff is amazing, while you had the plugs out you could have sprayed a bit of it into the plug holes and leave it there for half an hour and then turned it over to blow it out, which would spray it onto the face of the valves and melt the carbon off ready to be blown out on first start
Would you disconnect the injectors first and re install plugs (not connecting them to spark) then crank (short 1 sec pulse) the motor? That way it's only the CRC getting tossed around? or would you leave injectors on so fuel gets mixed in too (still no spark) then crank? or just spray it in, re-install everything and start the motor as normal?
I’ve been doing this type of cleaning on my Lexus IS250 for some time and it works like a charm every time. But you have to do it when it’s hot outside around 80F its not as effective when it’s cold. I would say in spring time and in fall.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ? my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
I have used combustion chamber cleaner on my car and truck let heat soak for 1 or 2 hours , then go for Italian tune up on freeway. Made huge difference in power on my cts and gas mileage.
Thumbs up for a good job and a great DYI clip from Vehicular DIY ! Much appreciated. It certainly confirms CRC 05319 GDI IDV Intake Valve Cleaner is an effective cleaning agent for carbon gunked inlet ports. Unfortunately I don't want to pull off the supercharger on an Audi 3L TFSI engine to get to the inlet ports. So I just have to follow the CRC can's instructions and use it before every oil change. When I change to spark plugs I'll scope inside the head to see if the inlet valves are clean enough.
Man this was a great DIY. You’re extremely methodical so after witnessing how much fluid actually came out the spark plug holes, I think I’ll do the valve cleaning, pull all the plugs to expel and then just replace them along with this DIY since they are next up 👌🏾
Well looks like you are going to save me a lot money! No need for walnut blast now. I’m gonna do this to my girls R56 Mini Cooper. Misfires when cold. I know for fact it’s carbon build up
this is the proper way instead of running the engine while spraying like other videos on RUclips. Remember good cleaning process will always takes time. This time you trying to remove hard carbon deposit just like a stone.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ? my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
The reason this works so well is a chemical called PEA(polyetheramine). It’s used in top tier gasoline in very light dosages. When concentrated it is a very effective compound with respect to carbon build up. Great video! This method seems like a WAY better approach vs walnut blasting👍🏻
Thank goodness for German simplicity.....My Honda requires one hose slipped off and the can of cleaner hose slipped on. Run the engine, use the cleaner , let it sit for an hour to heat soak and take it for a ride -DONE. Works great- did it 2 times so far and it runs beautifully-34,000 miles.....
Dropped a few bolts in the engine bay. I had a terrible time getting the intake manifold off and on. Now after 6 hours my back hurts like hell! Anyway... it runs again!
Erwin Van Riel yea seriously poor cylinders are gona end up gunkednwith all that goop. Just take a 22mm socket and turn the crank by hand manually. Cylinder 1 opens and closes first, then 5, 2,4,6 (If im not mistaken). This is a very important step, otherwise you’ll end up with irreversible damage to your cylinders and rod bearings!
I followed your DIY to a T using AC Delco valve cleaner and didn't get near those results. Gonna try again with CRC and an electric suction pump to remove the residue. If this saves me hundreds on a walnut blast, perfect. Thanks.
@@RR-nu3mc Before you start it with the clean valves. It just ensures that any bit of seaping is removed. I actually changed my oil with some 'cheap' Walmart synthetic (which is Dexos cert) for like 50 miles and then changed it once more with my normal good oil. that may be a little over the top but i tried to ensure no bad fluids or residues remained in my engine.
I like how the intake manifold studs stick out of the super expensive head, as opposed to an Audi where you have the chance to strip the bolt which screws into the head because you're taking the intake manifold off every 15k miles to scrape that shit off the intake valves. Maybe it's time for me to switch to BMW?
Well doing this on an M3 motor is different than a turbo being that you get so much debris it's best just to go to this product cermastore.com this guy John Maker of the company he'll answer your phone call I use his product for years it's ceramic coats everything just added to the gas tank it also boosts in eight points and is a water eliminator and my valves stay crystal clean I've even scoped them after 10,000 mi the product is expensive but it works even as a video set up on his site you can go check it out
Great vid!!! I don't get the need for brake cleaner though. Also the warning on the CRC can says it's flammable. Be careful. This is a very helpful vid. Thanks!!!
The gunk that mushrooms around the valve stem where it meets the valve is alway a PITA to remove. I’d suggest getting a catch can of some sort, BMS or Mishimoto & an RB PCV valve & cap to proactively cut down on the amount of carbon that builds up on the intake valves
, i want to know how to manually close / open air intake valves , after cleaning can i run the car for for few seconds without spark plugs to ensure no fluid stayed inside after cleaning with crc spray?
@@geniusO2 Yes. This will be totally safe. Just put a rag on top of spark plug holes because it will spray and will make a hell of a mess. Be careful not to suck that rag into the engine.
Lolx, I was thinking of using the aquarium pump to suck out the liquid carbon residue. Yours is not a bad idea either (will keep the shampoo pump next time), cheap and straight forward. Very informative video.
I finally have to do it before I tune my car after installing single turbo. It's pretty caked up in there so we'll see how it'll go. The only thing I can add is that you can buy long q-tips at Harbor Freight for interior detailing, you can use them to remove the remaining paste in the ports. Or you can even spray some brake cleaner on them and wipe the port clean. I'll see how it goes, maybe that will make the job a bit easier and feel safe to do so lol
Next time- get a length of 1/2" PVC pipe, duct tape it to a ShopVac hose- vacuum it all out. I wouldn't worry to much about any vapors be _that_ flammable to cause problems.
Man, those ports were trashed. I'm not a fan of GDI at all, it's just a gimmick, too many problems outweigh any real benefits. You did an outstanding job, and the correct, thorough way. Simply spraying anything while running is never going to do what you did here.
Reason I say this is because I took my manifold off last night to oil filter housing gasket and they were still coated not nearly as bad ass this they were just black. The catch can definitely has done something but doesn’t catch everything
, i want to know how to manually close / open air intake valves , after cleaning can i run the car for for few seconds without spark plugs to ensure no fluid stayed inside after cleaning with crc spray?
Better is to look into tapping and plugging the intake runner port holes to the valve cover and externalize your low-side PCV system (via RB Turbo's kit) through a low-flow catch can (like a mishimoto or cheap ones on amazon like Tasan Racing). This way, you separate the valve cover from all boost, making it less likely to crack and/or make the gasket leak. Also, under vacuum conditions, plugging those holes keeps oil mist out of the intake runners (because it would then be redirected to a catch can first before going back to your throttle body). I catch 3x as much oil in the low side than the high side through the BMS can.
Well Done!!!! I will be doing this job here in a month or so. End of the year project. I was planning on buying the walnut kit but now seeing this, I will try this first.
Thank you for this video, I was able to clean all the junk liquid with my armor-all vaccum since it came with really thin and long attachments for detailing interiors, the best thing is that it also sucks water so it was the best option :) amazing cleaner that is
Do you need to disconnect High Pressure Fuel Pump in order to evacuate liquid from cylinder at 34:00 ? Because I'd imagine there would be a lot of fuel sprayed otherwise...
What a great tutorial! That starter bump trick is amazing! Although I don’t know if I will turbo the crank my hand when I do mine just to make sure the valves I’m working on are completely closed, but really good!
39:08 -39:21-- Carbon mist liquid on ground. I’ve seen carbon flakes before size of penny- quarter mostly from carbs motors used #Seafoam #B-12 Berry Man’s #CRC #AMSOILFoam
Im also using this methods to clean my Mazda 3 skyactiv engine. I'm modifying a electric pump to suck all the dirty carbon out. Making sure no carbon deposits sucked into the combustion chamber, or else you might blocked the cat converter. Great video bro👍
Henk Smit when you follow the instructions on the can you won’t get near the same results, he cleaned it his own way. I guess other products work well too if done the same way he did in the video and not the way they recommend on the cans
Great video. I already had my E93 walnut blasted at 60,000mi (it may seem premature but it they were pretty disgusting) but my daily driver is a Ford Fusion 2.0 GDI motor. I think I'll try this process.
You might try carb cleaner it is a little bit more oily don't use break clean until you are sure you're happy with your carbon removal then maybe use brake clean to remove any oil products and small carbon pieces
I made a small compromise. I did order the weird vacuum tool for the walnut blasting, but i don't have a media blaster yet so. I'm gonna do this exact thing, along with running the vacuum and compressor. Should do exactly this and if i take my time i should get near the same results as both
Well I’m seeing this video five months after you put it out. It would’ve been good if you had like a shop vac, something with a lot of power and a narrow suction tip to suck all that gunk out would’ve made the job much easier and the valves cleaner. Also like a soft brush tip, something like a narrow soft brush hooked Up to a drill to clean and buff out all the extra carbon sludge if you know what I’m saying.
This is so much easier if you just take off the charge pipe and follow the instructions by spraying it past the throttle body opening. Much, much easier.
I decided to do the CRC procedure when my Mazda hit about 10Kmi. I figure if I do their specified procedure every 10,000-15,000 mi, I won't have to take apart the top of the engine later on. This'll prevent the carbon from building up in the first place. Otherwise, I'd probably have to get a catch can.
2013 F30 ActiveHybrid 3, basically an N55 335i with an electric motor added. I cannot get the charge pipe off the throttle body without significant disassembly, which I am not willing to do. With the clip loosened, I can only push the pipe down about a half inch or so before its own length and stiffness prevent it from going any further. So that spray inlet is not an option. There's a sensor on the pipe a few inches below the throttle body but I'd have to get some sort of angled wrench and torx sockets to get that out of the pipe. Tight clearances everywhere in that area.
would not have believed this if I had not seen it myself. Wow. And you might be able to use a little fish aquarium pump to suck fluid out of those valve areas. They pump fluids, have small hoses and are dirt cheap.
Turbo cars have an intercooler so all the intakes are for is less restrictive airflow. It doesnt make much of a difference unless hes a running on a jb4 or something
yeh.. a catch can will only prolong the carbon build-up.. it doesn't 100% prevent it for the future... you'll still be best to check on the condition every year or so
I would say your best bet would be to get Methanol Injection!! Increase power AND clean those valves seeing as the meth woul dbe sprayed in BEFORE the intake valves. ;)
Adrian Gutierrez That's what a catch can does. Catches the oil and carbons from your crank case so it doesn't get on your valves. Catch cans are made for DI/turbo engines.
Thank you for your video. I have to say, I don’t understand you, because you have so good acces to the valves, so why don’t you use walnut blaster. You can buy a blaster for about 20 euro and walnut for 30 euro. I will take about 2-3 minutes for every valve and when you are done all your valves look likes brand new and it is such a easy job. Just my opinion, have a nice day.
@@JackRR15 Harbor freight. There's write ups on BMW forums. But you still need a compressor and a vacuum. you can do it without that special $100 or so dollar tool but it will be messier and get walnut shells everywhere unless you tape everything up. Essentially you are just media blasting the carbon off the valves. But depending on how neat / frequent you do it (like for customers) you want to do it you might opt for more specialized stuff that will help you do the job faster / efficiently.
Great video on using CRC intake valve cleaner to remove heavy carbon . One question ? What if you use CRC cleaner 11 oz. 4 times over 21 days of CRC sprayed directly in throttle in 1 second spirts . Would this be strong enough to do almost the same outcome ? Rev as directed on can then heat soak for 2 hours . Then drive on highway for 15 min . Then change the oil . Any thoughts ? Thank you
I did mine with e85, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and a few different brushes. Oh and a shop vacuum. Didn't blow myself up. Mine were really bad tho. Worse than yours. Good vid.
BMW, the ultimate driving machine, but they can't figure out how to keep this from happening? Factory and dealers working together to get your money. Good video. Thanks.
Cristian A not true at all. Do your research. All direct injection vehicles have this problem. While it has its ups this is a short downfall. Learn to do it yourself and the dealer shouldn’t come Into play. 👍🏼
Cristian A not true at all. Do your research. All direct injection vehicles have this problem. While it has its ups this is a short downfall. Learn to do it yourself and the dealer shouldn’t come Into play.
@@whiteout7533 I know they do, some worse than others. Our company uses 740i's and they are really bad cars. They could very well use a filtration system similar to catch cans and terminate this issue. Not acceptable. Our 740's go thru lots of oil before oil changes, especially when running 0w20 as recommended.
Awesome tip on the starter, saves a bunch of hassle and is super helpful to actually watch the valves open and close.
Some notes from my amateur DIY:
Pumping the solvents out is not worth it. Stuffing paper shop towels in there was much easier, cleaner, and more efficient.
In my experience, fuel injector cleaner worked just as well if not better than the CRC product (ran out of CRC cleaner after the first 4 valves and switched) and is much cheaper.
Understand, this is a messy and tedious job. It took me days to finish (also replaced both OFHG gaskets) - definitely recommend replacing the throttle body and manifold gaskets as well because it's quite a chore to get them off and you really might as well.
At 108k miles, my intakes were caked. Took about 3 passes with the CRC cleaner and 2 with the fuel injector stuff before several more passes w brake cleaner. Drill w/ wire brush attachments were definitely appreciated (don't worry about scratching the metal).
Also highly recommend long pick tools. The short ones didn't provide nearly enough reach or leverage and strained my fingers.
Compressed air is also very helpful, otherwise u can't get the stuff that settles to the bottom (I bought a little vacuum gun on Amazon and it worked great). You can block the port with a microfiber towel to absorb the brake clean while u blast, then come back and blast out the dry bits (fumy process, respirator good idea).
Last couple notes -- it is WAY easier to reinstall the intake manifold if you have someone help you push the pipe near the firewall back towards that direction before attempting to mount it. Struggled for about 20 minutes before my housemate helped hold that thing and then it popped right on.
Lastly, that cable hub under the manifold is a bitch. Good luck.
This is a GOOD VIDEO, NO BS, the guy acts like he has a BRAIN. Just good advice, good camera work...VERY WELL DONE!!
Well done video. Went thru the process yesterday. A few things:
1. Allow PLENTY of time - I spent about 4-5 hours, and could have spent 2 more.
2. Suction is key - figure out a good way to suck the gunk out. I had several options on hand - 2 different spray bottles jammed up, but the cheap turkey baster plus a bit of tubing was best, but required coordination to keep suction going while pulling it back out so the fluid didn't escape. The shop vac suggestion from others would be waaaay better I'm sure.
3. I did 4 out of 6 valves, ran out of daylight, patience and hamstring pain tolerance :( Valves were better, but nowhere near the results shown. I'm sure with more time and spray I could have got there. Suspect they need a couple of half hour soaks each, easy. 110K km on mine. Dirty boys, about the same as V-DIY's.
4. I'm gonna look into a cheap walnut home build. Having gone through this now, I wish I'd just done that. This was pretty painful.
5 **Bonus point** The metal bracket under the valve cover, clipped into the plastic electrical junction box (around 09:15)? FORGET trying to slide the %$#^ing clips out, fools errand that will drive to drink! Unclip the 5(?) clips holding the bottom to the top of the junction box (front and sides, none facing rear of car) with a pick, and the top will come away with the valve cover. Easy!
Bill Boyce the hamstring pain tolerance! I feel you.😂😂😂
As far as I'm concerned this is the only product that really works for cleaning the intake valves. Thanks for the vid
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
Mohamed Ahmed Fathi ❶ you need to rotate the engine with a wrench and socket on the crank pulley
@@geniusO2 You need a Crankshaft rotation tool to rotate the valves to close position.
A lot of people don’t understand the concept of this video. No surprise. RUclips is full of the most intelligent people on earth. I gotta say thanks for tackling this project the way you did. Gave me the confidence to do this project along with replacing my valve cover and oil housing gaskets. Big project but now I know my 90k mike N55 won’t give me typical issues for a while.
I bought 2 cans of CRC and 2 cans of another “intake valve cleaner.” I gotta say the CRC was miles ahead of the other cleaner. Amazing how you can see the CRC foam and break down the carbon. The other cleaner was more like engine degreaser or brake cleaner. It didn’t come close to the effectiveness of the CRC. I ended up buying 3 cans of CRC, small pipe cleaners, picks, a used toothbrush, and my shop vac to brush, pick and draw out the fluid from the ports. Amazing. It worked like a charm and it started up with no warning lights or misfires after putting everything back together. Runs smoother at idle as well.
Once again thanks. This was worth saving myself from buying an air compressor or walnut blaster. I think shops charge about 500 to do walnut blasting alone. I was able to replace my valve cover, replace my oil housing gaskets, and clean my intake valves for that same price.
This is when you need that suction/vacuum system at the Dental office.
Or better yet, rig up a shop vac to a small clear hose. That’s what I’m going to try ;)
Use reducer hose on your wet dry shop vacuum. Each not to overheat the vacuum motor.
They have a brake bleed there called the mighty vac they’re like 30 bucks works well to suck up fluids.
Shop vac and flammable liquid?? I think not.
Get a large syringe or a compressed air, brake bleeder.
That's where oil extractors come in handy 👍
I have done this intake valve cleaning 2 times now on my 335i and it took me several hours with seafoam and brake cleaner. I could have saved myself alot of trouble by using the CRC...thx for the video...
Great video. excellent camera work. I tried to take stills inside the intake port but could not get it light upyou were able to light it up and and do the work at the same time!
I completed the job on my N55 in a 2012 335i, 166,000 Km. Some of my notes for N55:
1) The carbon was not that bad compared to other videos I have seen (mostly N54?) I think that N55 are less prone. I did the carbon clean anyway.
2) Your comment about hydrolocking the engine scared me shitless, so I took out the spark plugs and turned the engine over to make sure.
3) I used your engine bump method to turn over and close valves.
4) I used a brake vacuum pump to suck out the dirty fluid.
5) Do not use any metalic brush. I started to use brass brushes, but saw pieces break off the brush and switched to a tooth brush. I did an inspection with an endoscope to make sure I had it cleaned out.
6) Replaced the intake manifold gaskets and this was probably the only maintenance that was really necessary. The gaskets were still pliable but about 1mm narrower than the new ones. Boost is better now.
7) The only really tricky part about this job was removing the connectors from the DME. I did not see details on this video, maybe only relevant for N55. I found a you tube for N55 DME connectors after stuggling for an hour. The right hand connector in particular has a lock that must be pulled down to release it. The lock is hidden from view. Once off, the adjacent connectors can be removed easily.
8) I also replaced the MAP sensor on the manifold. I was getting implausible pressure codes when trying to boost. I replaced the MAP on the charge tube with no effect and so used the old charge tube sensor to replace the monifold sensor. It had a bit of dirty oil on it a nd cleaning may have been just as good. In the end I do not have the implausible pressure error code come up now. Maybe combined with point 6)
Thanks agian.
I just completed the procedure and felt like I should contribute as the video saved me the $500 the shop charges. First off don't expect you valves to be as clean as the ones depicted in the video. Mines were really bad and I managed to only get 85% of the carbon off my valve. I suspect once the engine hits full operating temps and the remaining cleaner residue heats up the remaining 15% will be effected. I used the intake cleaner first to break up the carbon using picks and metal brushes. Then I filled the valve area with MMO Marvelous Mystery Oil and let it sit for a hour then gave it a good final scrub and removed all of the carbon chunks and liquid with my shop vac. Lowes sell a small detail kit for shop vacs that has utensils that fit in the valve area perfectly! No mess no fuss! My vac did not explode but do this at your own risk! Once I finished everything also removed my spark plugs and cranked the engine just incase something leaked passed the valves. Upon starting my car ran like crap at idle and seemed to have slight miss so I added .5 quart of MMO and a new oil filter and let the car reach operating temp. I then changed the oil and filter and the car purrs like a kitten! All and all I am pleased with the results and cash still in my pockets!
Hey, I just thought I'd offer up my experience. I genuinely think this is an excellent DIY video. Obviously a lot of time and effort went in to the production and testing of the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner demo'd here. I was so impressed by the results that I decided to grab a couple cans of the cleaner and attempt this myself. It made good sense to do add on an intake valve cleaning as I've been progressing through a series of intense maintenance & repair projects on my 2009 135i over the past couple months. Of note, my car has ~81K miles on the odo, but I had my intake valves walnut blasted back around 40K miles ago. I have been running with a BMS oil catch can since I purchased the car back when it only had 38K miles. However my stock turbos had blown oil seals which leaked oil significantly through to the turbo outlet, intercooler, and etc. That's now fixed thanks to VTT. 😎 So, last weekend I popped off the intake manifold and confirmed my valves were well in need of another deep cleaning. I proceeded to follow along with this video to the best of my ability. At first I made multiple attempts at spraying the cleaner into cylinder 1's intake (obviously with valves in the completely closed position); totally submersing the valves stems. At no point did I observe anything remotely resembling the "scrubbing-bubbles-like" chemical reaction displayed in this video. A bit of foam did appear briefly on initial contact, but quickly subsided in to a mild bubbling akin to a flat soda pop. Now, I do live in California, and I wouldn't be surprised if the stuff they sell out here is watered down... Anyway I let each application sit from 15 mins to 30 mins, along with a bit of gentle scrubbing using a small bottle brush and non-marring pick tool. I followed each application with a thorough vacuuming with my Shop Vac (equipped with a spare piece of rubber fuel line duct taped to the end of the nozzle). I can say objectively that the cleaner eventually did loosen and remove the larger carbon deposits on the valve stems to a good degree. Yet a moderate amount of caked on deposits remained on the stems, and the tops of the valves remained encrusted. I applied one final treatment and let it soak overnight. The next morning revealed only minimal additional cleansing. At that point I had burned through about 2/3 of a can on just one cylinder. I might have settled with that result and moved on to the next cylinder, but there was one very troubling side effect. The cleaner had created a thick semi-fluid sludge build up around the valve seals. There was just no way I could sufficiently clean it all off. I feared potentially damaging the piston/rings should it ooze down inside the cylinder. At that point I pulled the plug on the experiment and ordered a walnut blaster kit from Harbor Freight; and the proper vacuum adapter and wand from FCP Euro. I'll just need to rent an air compressor once everything arrives and be done with this little headache, hopefully next weekend.
This is very interesting. I've watched a lot of videos on this as well as one on my favorite (Besides "Vehicular DIY" of course lol) YT channel "0 to 60" where he had the intake removed from the car as he was doing an engine swap. So he decided to do some experimenting. He got cleaners and he got walnut tools and requirements so he could se. He seemed to have the very same troubles you were having here with the chemicals. so after he had some initial success with the cleaners he decided to use the walnut shells and then he had clean intakes but a huge mess in his garage as he didn't use the attachment you purchased for using the Shop Vac. SO it's a strange thing with this job. He is in Australia so maybe climate might be a factor in this? Not that I can make sense out of it. I've seen videos where folks had great success with the chemicals and some....Not so much. I found a very inexpensive vac adapter on Ebay for our intakes ($20 or less) as it is made with a 3D printer. Then I found a gun type nozzle with a small (not too small mind you) hopper container attached to the top of it for the walnut shell medium. All I have to do (I haven't tried it yet but reports are it works a charm) is hook it up to a small air compressor and use my shop vac at the same time and I should be able to clean then each out to perfection in no time with minimal mess. I live in Chnada.....Oops I meant Canada and we have a store called "Princess Auto" which sells lots of tools and all sorts of things like air guns with hoppers on top. Maybe Harbor Freight might have the same thing? Sorry for such a long reply.
How's it running now? Any side effects?
@@OneManOnFire Well, over the course of the last 18 months, I actually ended up doing an almost a full restoration. After a proper walnut blast, new VTT turbos, and a rather long list of replacement parts, my N54 literally runs like new. Now I’m in the process of upgrading my diff to an Mfactory helical LSD
@@kar4tube Thanks for the update
I serviced my car with this product and I was really impressed, I wasn't that impressed with the walnut blast.. Great video! keep them coming!
Did you use the Vehicular DIY method, or as instructed on the can please?
Walnut blasting results in factory clean valves. Im wondering how you were not impressed?
did you take off the manifold or use the spray while car is running
How were you not impressed with Walnut Basting. I have a Walnut Blaster that I use for my 2013 VW to clean to valves every 40,000 miles, and it takes me about 5 minutes per valve and they look like new again.
@@1badk20 How dare you compare a VW to a BMW, I can disassemble a VW in about half an hour, good luck trying that with a BMW.
Dude, thank you so much!! I need to do this procedure on my 335i with 140K miles. I've been looking for a DIY video on this for a long time. You're video showed and explained everything I need to do.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
Got my valves done today, really wasn't too bad, just a bunch of elbow grease. Hardest part was getting the intake manifold back in. Prolly a good idea to disconnect the battery when doing this as I shorted the starter with the bracket on the bottom.
This is working SMARTER and not harder. Thanks my dude.
GentlemensTuck
How? Your supposed to spray this stuff in while your vehicle is running. The whole point is to not take off your intake manifold. It's a great product. Just follow the directions and its 1/100th of the job this guy did
Bronze Whaler...
It's like you didn't even read my reply. I never made any statement that you're calling out. Thanks for being so triggered tho, it gave me a good laugh. No shit this cleaner doesn't clean the intake ports or valves 100%.
Bronze Whaler
Ok... let me dumb this down for you. The the whole point of that product is to not remove your manifold. It is supposed to be used every oil change for any actual results. That's a fact.
Break cleaner alone would have worked more efficiently and would've been much cheaper as well. Unlike you, I didnt make my original reply a personal attack against the original commentor. As you did to me. I threw out an objectionable statement to start a conversation.
But you must be the expert. It's not like you're on RUclips watching inexperienced individuals trying to complete shabby DIY projects. Especially ones not using proper tools and techniques. This whole video was hilarious to me. Using the starter to turn the crank... using a steal pick on aluminum... not changing the gasket out... using an old soap dispenser to extract the wasted product... no torque wrench... not changing his oil afterwards.
All in all, if you found this video helpful or if you feel that you gained any knowledge from this video; than your original reply should be directed towards you.
Bronze Whaler
Unfortunately I think you're an sjw who enjoys being a cuckold. So your opinion doesn't matter. You just stated that you failed... but you now think your superior in the DI realm. I am not broke tho, so I had my car blasted. Now I use CLR as a preventative. That is all it is really for. Have a good life and it was fun
well said bronze lol
Once you have cleaned up your valves installing a catch can system will help considerably. Now a day or two before your oil change follow the instructions on the can for spraying the cleaner through the intake. Don't forget to empty the catch can at the same time as the oil change. This could really help with your cars performance and the life of your engine.
Wow man, you just saved me a lot of cash. I’ll probably try to use a drill with extension and brush attachment but still your results were awesome.
Long but really good video. I am pretty sure my valves are just as bad at 120K+ miles. This is on my list of things to do after brakes, struts/shocks. Thank you again for your post! Really informative.
Had my 2008 335i serviced at BMW dealer costing me lot of money. I wish I could have followed your video DIY, thanks for the awesome tutorial and amazing video.
This was a helpful, detailed, and valuable video. Thanks a lot for taking the time to post and provide the information. I did walnut blasting on my 2010 535i (for the first time) and I followed all the steps in this video. Bumping the starter was cleaver and helpful as well. Keep you the great work and again, thanks!!
When doing a partial teardown. I like to give the engine a good shampoo a day or so before the job. As well as I remove parts clean them then condition them ready to be replaced you will like the end result and it really helps when working on a clean engine.
CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow
instructions on can. 2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets
26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back
into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray
intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will
choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1
hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times
total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and
ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all
three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking
away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by
from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway
use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I
will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem
handled.
From your instructions its literally just like seafoam. That stuff works through the intake for sure. Only difference is you don't need to let the seafoam sit for an hour. Works well though. When the car stops smoking after revving it up, you're good to go
Also, CRC recommends heat-soaking it, but since you have your manifold open, you cannot run the engine. Maybe try heating up the valves with the heat gun or something. It's similar to cleaning a BBQ grill, you can get alot of gunk out by heating the grill versus cleaning a cold grill. Just a recommendation.
A good one at that.
good one, i'll use my heat gun
Great job buddy! Yes, it is amazing what a difference you notice afterwards. Install yourself an oil catch can and extend that next cleaning. I did mine at 60k and now at 123k and runs like yours does without another intake cleaning so far.
Even better is to look into tapping and plugging the intake runner port holes to the valve cover and externalize your low-side PCV system (via RB Turbo's kit) through a low-flow catch can (like a mishimoto or cheap ones on amazon like Tasan Racing that have the sintered metal air/oil separator). This way, you separate the valve cover from all boost, making it less likely to crack and/or make the gasket leak. Also, under vacuum conditions, having those holes plugged keeps un-separated oil mist out of the intake runners (because externalized PCV would then redirected this mist to a catch can first, before the separated air goes back to your throttle body). This maintains crank case vaccum as well. I catch 3x as much oil in my mishimoto low side can than the burger motorsports "high side" can. I run both.
@@bitcoredotorg that means making holes in the head, correct?
@@CATPLAYING No, there are holes in the head that lead to the valve cover's integrated PCV system - it basically dumps crankcase oil mist directly on your hot valves. There's a kit you can purchase from rob beck that allows you to bypass this system with a more effective catch can. To implement properly, you should take the valve cover off, tap the ports, and install a plug into the port to block it off. This completely separates the head from the pressurized intake tract, and helps prevent you from cracking a valve cover from boost pressure.
I have a 2006 325i 150,xxx miles I've been watching your content I know I'll get it to 180,xxx brought car at 148,xxx changed my vanos solenoids , air filter , put in my halo eyes . Going to do m3 front arms , with either b4 or b6 bilstein shocks , front brake pads. New fluids .Might throw a 330i short diff in the late summer
Every time I hear this guys voice, I begin to think that I’m going to have to reverse engineer the entire vehicle
Edit: All while in my pj’s and flip flops.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
Mohamed Ahmed Fathi ❶ all he used was a plain wire with alligator clips on the end of them. You could do the same with a regular bare wire. You could go inside the car and press the on button in order to roll the car over as long as there are no spark plugs inside. Both accomplish the same goal, rolling the car over with no spark plugs in order to expel any fluid that drained into the cylinder
@@nuhnuh61 yeah, exactly, although it can get messy that way. I did that once on a hydrolocked engine, it was fun to watch!
The edit is FACTS but sweats and slippers
@Christian Oland I’m sorry man I just saw this but all you have to do is bump the starter. Look up a video for an N54. There’s lots of them
Crc is not available in my country, I used some carburator cleaner(noticed similar boiling like reaction with the deposits), and liqui moly valve cleaner, worked wonders, surging issue on light trottle is GONE!! Thank.s for the vid, gave me the courage :D
Important information! Also experiencing surge upon light throttle. 😅 Will do this asap.
09 135i 135k miles
I was Curious if RUclips had any videos on this service and see how other people are Cleaning Intake Valves on BMW's. I;m a Master Tech and done this procedure many times and with the New High Pressure Direct Injection Systems Intake Valves are getting Carbon up Sooner Because the Fuel Injector is Not over the Intake Valve Injector is on top of Cylinder Head. On the Older Injection systems Perform Induction Cleaning First than Run Few Cans of Injector Fuel System Cleaner with Chevron or Shell Premium Gas top off the Tank and drive the car after couple Tanks Intake Valves Should be Clean along with Intake Manifold and Top of the Piston Cylinder Head Chamber too. I just Worked on 2011 BMW 535I Twin Turbo Had to remove Intake Manifold to Replace Oil filter Housing Seals and I knew those Intake Valves were going to be Carbon up sure as shit they were Cleaned Them with Zep Carb Cleaner Long Seal Pick Narrow Tooth Brush Spray a lot of Cleaner scrub with old ToothaBrush Lol I have a old Brake Bleeder with Long Hose works on Compressed Air and Sucks out the Fluid out from Intake Port or can use Paper Towels Cut sheet in 1/4 trips ball them up push strips down into the valve let it Soak for few seconds than pull out paper towel strip long Needle Nose Repeat till Clean Dont let the Cleaner set to long especially Over Night did that once just seemed make it worse when Dried took longer to Clean, you can Due things to Prevent This Carbon Build up .1 Induction Cleaning every 30K miles 2.Use Good Fuel&Fuel system Cleaner 3. Change Engine Oil every 5K miles Dont do it at 10k if you wait that long the Engine Oil Turns into Carbon Monoxide Hydro Carbon Mud Oil Damages Engine Rubber Seals, Gaskets and Crankcase Vent Hoses- PCV Valve and than over time dirty Engine Oil slowly Drips Down the Valve Stem Seal Down Intake Valve Guide&Valve Stem than Crystallizers into Carbon on back of the Intake Valve thats how Carbon Builds up on back of Intake Valves also the Engine Crankcase Vapor thats Induced by PCV Valve goes to Intake Manifold while Engine is Running shut it off turns into oil and that eventually Builds up on Intake valve Too. thats 40 years Pro Mechanic Advise and Gentleman did this video did good Job
Holy run-on sentence, Batman! Excellent advice though, and absolutely accurate.
I had my 335i walnut blasted , but then I fitted a oil catch tank in the pcv line to help keep the oil off the valves , easy and cheap to do
thank you for the great info Mr.Klaus , i wish you make vids too, and i have a question though, is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
I use sea foam at the brake booster hose to suck it into the intake periodically like two or three times a year to keep the build up from happening. I would suggest just using compressed air with a rag over the port once the chemical has done it’s job to get all that left over gunk out. But again love your channel, keep up the good work 👍
Instead of the pick tool I've see people use a bunch of cables ties to clean the valves and ports. Works well.
Best video I've found that shows CRC doing its thing! Great job
Did this process today on my I30 but because you can't find CRC in my area I used brake cleaning spray ~ Works Like Magic ~ Thank you for this video!
Interesting way to use the product. Looks to work way better than other liquid cleaners I’ve seen people use like carb cleaner. Thanks for sharing.
You had me dying at @22:10 though in reference to the paste bits, “if only I had something to extract it...like something suction...” like a shop vac?? 🤣 I get it wouldn’t work to loosen the paste but anything you did loosen would easily be sucked up by a vac with a narrow crevice accessory. It could also be used to extract excess fluid so that does end up in the cylinder. I still prefer a walnut blast to just this although I might use this to speed up the process. Spray some in to soften it. Come back in 10 minutes, blast it, rotate, repeat.
Tried this myself, and after spraying the cleaner in the ports and letting it sit (the first time for half an hour, every other time until I noticed it wasn't bubbling) before removing it, I can say that there was not a whole lot of difference, even after about half an hour of scraping at cylinder one's valves and letting it soak through, I couldn't even see the metal of the valves, and it looked identical to valves that were not cleaned. After three valves and no change I finally gave up and put it all back together. This was after 72000 miles as well, but there was quite a bit of carbon built up, more so than the video. If your valves are as bad as mine were, this is not the way to go. Otherwise, great job explaining everything, TIS missed a few connectors that left me scratching my head before I ended up here.
MrElectrifyBF the formula he uses is extra strength he stated, maybe there are different types of cans
That stuff is amazing, while you had the plugs out you could have sprayed a bit of it into the plug holes and leave it there for half an hour and then turned it over to blow it out, which would spray it onto the face of the valves and melt the carbon off ready to be blown out on first start
Would you disconnect the injectors first and re install plugs (not connecting them to spark) then crank (short 1 sec pulse) the motor? That way it's only the CRC getting tossed around? or would you leave injectors on so fuel gets mixed in too (still no spark) then crank? or just spray it in, re-install everything and start the motor as normal?
Sean Smith taking injectors off is not a good idea unless you install new o rings
I’ve been doing this type of cleaning on my Lexus IS250 for some time and it works like a charm every time. But you have to do it when it’s hot outside around 80F its not as effective when it’s cold. I would say in spring time and in fall.
That CRC is very powerful chemical, and thanks for posting this video.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
@@geniusO2 You can use a 18 gauge wire with alligator clips to do the job like he did here
Great vid. Ill probably install new plugs, coils, charge pipe, and blow off valve while its all torn apart. Thanks
I have used combustion chamber cleaner on my car and truck let heat soak for 1 or 2 hours , then go for Italian tune up on freeway. Made huge difference in power on my cts and gas mileage.
The scraping pick tool is a must between sprays. Also an electric toothbrush is handy!
Thanks for this, I did the CRC Intake cleaner in addition to walnut blasting and the CRC definitely helped get the corners and hidden spots.
We dont have CRC where I live, can any intake cleaner work?
Thumbs up for a good job and a great DYI clip from Vehicular DIY ! Much appreciated. It certainly confirms CRC 05319 GDI IDV Intake Valve Cleaner is an effective cleaning agent for carbon gunked inlet ports. Unfortunately I don't want to pull off the supercharger on an Audi 3L TFSI engine to get to the inlet ports. So I just have to follow the CRC can's instructions and use it before every oil change. When I change to spark plugs I'll scope inside the head to see if the inlet valves are clean enough.
Man this was a great DIY. You’re extremely methodical so after witnessing how much fluid actually came out the spark plug holes, I think I’ll do the valve cleaning, pull all the plugs to expel and then just replace them along with this DIY since they are next up 👌🏾
Well looks like you are going to save me a lot money! No need for walnut blast now. I’m gonna do this to my girls R56 Mini Cooper. Misfires when cold. I know for fact it’s carbon build up
this is the proper way instead of running the engine while spraying like other videos on RUclips. Remember good cleaning process will always takes time. This time you trying to remove hard carbon deposit just like a stone.
is this starter idea to move the valves after you finish cleaning is only method ? can't i just turn on the car without any spark plus to ensure no fluid inside ? if not where to buy this starter kit that he uses to flip and run the valves w/o turning the car on ?
my car is E280 272.9 , but i am just asking generally because i'm willing to do the same and make a video to teach other and share knowledge , thank you so much in advance
The reason this works so well is a chemical called PEA(polyetheramine). It’s used in top tier gasoline in very light dosages. When concentrated it is a very effective compound with respect to carbon build up.
Great video! This method seems like a WAY better approach vs walnut blasting👍🏻
the cup and soap pump is a genius idea, ty mate!
Man, so glad I stumbled on this video. I have a 135i that requires this to be done so it will be CRC to the rescue. Good work and thank you.
Thank goodness for German simplicity.....My Honda requires one hose slipped off and the can of cleaner hose slipped on. Run the engine, use the cleaner , let it sit for an hour to heat soak and take it for a ride -DONE. Works great- did it 2 times so far and it runs beautifully-34,000 miles.....
If you do that to a direct injection engine
You will scratch your cylinder walls
And possibly resin your catalytic converter
Putting that all back together must be a joy joy.
Dropped a few bolts in the engine bay. I had a terrible time getting the intake manifold off and on. Now after 6 hours my back hurts like hell! Anyway... it runs again!
Make sure you are cleaning on closed valves! 😬👍
I killed an engine by not knowing that tidbit of knowledge 😢
The liquid is flowing into the cylinder.
Close your valves 😂😂😂
Rich Cast what happened to it?
Maybe hydrolock 🤨
Erwin Van Riel yea seriously poor cylinders are gona end up gunkednwith all that goop. Just take a 22mm socket and turn the crank by hand manually. Cylinder 1 opens and closes first, then 5, 2,4,6 (If im not mistaken). This is a very important step, otherwise you’ll end up with irreversible damage to your cylinders and rod bearings!
I followed your DIY to a T using AC Delco valve cleaner and didn't get near those results. Gonna try again with CRC and an electric suction pump to remove the residue. If this saves me hundreds on a walnut blast, perfect. Thanks.
hope you did an oil change afterwards. and an oil catch can will certainly help but it won't cure the issue by any means. definitely worth getting.
twinklinglicin oil change after I let the car run, or before I start it with the clean valves?
@@RR-nu3mc Before you start it with the clean valves. It just ensures that any bit of seaping is removed. I actually changed my oil with some 'cheap' Walmart synthetic (which is Dexos cert) for like 50 miles and then changed it once more with my normal good oil. that may be a little over the top but i tried to ensure no bad fluids or residues remained in my engine.
twinklinglicin thanks for the reply, i will be doing the same as you then👍
Thanks bro!! This saves alot of money!
I like how the intake manifold studs stick out of the super expensive head, as opposed to an Audi where you have the chance to strip the bolt which screws into the head because you're taking the intake manifold off every 15k miles to scrape that shit off the intake valves. Maybe it's time for me to switch to BMW?
it's never late to make the switch :)
DO IT
Haha then you drop a nut and play eye spy
I have Misted this through my M3 with much better results ! Engine running cleans out all the Junk and the final results are sparkling !!!
How much rpm?
Well doing this on an M3 motor is different than a turbo being that you get so much debris it's best just to go to this product cermastore.com this guy John Maker of the company he'll answer your phone call I use his product for years it's ceramic coats everything just added to the gas tank it also boosts in eight points and is a water eliminator and my valves stay crystal clean I've even scoped them after 10,000 mi the product is expensive but it works even as a video set up on his site you can go check it out
Great vid!!! I don't get the need for brake cleaner though. Also the warning on the CRC can says it's flammable. Be careful. This is a very helpful vid. Thanks!!!
Great shortcut for cleaning valves. My N55 is at 155k and is due for this treatment.
The gunk that mushrooms around the valve stem where it meets the valve is alway a PITA to remove. I’d suggest getting a catch can of some sort, BMS or Mishimoto & an RB PCV valve & cap to proactively cut down on the amount of carbon that builds up on the intake valves
Walnut would be faster and safer. But your method is affordable.
, i want to know how to manually close / open air intake valves , after cleaning can i run the car for for few seconds without spark plugs to ensure no fluid stayed inside after cleaning with crc spray?
@@geniusO2 Yes. This will be totally safe. Just put a rag on top of spark plug holes because it will spray and will make a hell of a mess. Be careful not to suck that rag into the engine.
@@Cribs00 thank you so so so much sir for replying, will do that and write back
@@Cribs00 how to prevent the rag from being suck into the engine?
@@paulng2455 It was a little joke. Spark plug holes are too small for something like that to happen :D
nice vid
thanks for taking the time in product experimentation and documenting it
it only adds to your toolkit in tackling future challenges
press on
Thank very much, its really helpful, on N55 we got the DME attached to the manifold and there is a gasket there too.
Lolx, I was thinking of using the aquarium pump to suck out the liquid carbon residue. Yours is not a bad idea either (will keep the shampoo pump next time), cheap and straight forward. Very informative video.
I finally have to do it before I tune my car after installing single turbo. It's pretty caked up in there so we'll see how it'll go. The only thing I can add is that you can buy long q-tips at Harbor Freight for interior detailing, you can use them to remove the remaining paste in the ports. Or you can even spray some brake cleaner on them and wipe the port clean. I'll see how it goes, maybe that will make the job a bit easier and feel safe to do so lol
Are you a low key master mechanic? Your videos are always good.
Thanks, no I have a completely unrelated day job.
Next time- get a length of 1/2" PVC pipe, duct tape it to a ShopVac hose- vacuum it all out. I wouldn't worry to much about any vapors be _that_ flammable to cause problems.
That could cause a fire. A vacuum pump into a canister would be a much better option.
28:49 Man, I have my eyes wide open. What a brilliant pump. You could really need a small compessor for this job. it can be a blower and vaccum.
Man, those ports were trashed. I'm not a fan of GDI at all, it's just a gimmick, too many problems outweigh any real benefits. You did an outstanding job, and the correct, thorough way. Simply spraying anything while running is never going to do what you did here.
I love your vids......love from the uk 🇬🇧
Having an oil catch can would be good idea to resolve these gunk that goes into your intake valves.
Linoge279 you still have this problem after occ installed after a lot of miles. Catch can is not the saving grace it just slows the problem
Reason I say this is because I took my manifold off last night to oil filter housing gasket and they were still coated not nearly as bad ass this they were just black. The catch can definitely has done something but doesn’t catch everything
, i want to know how to manually close / open air intake valves , after cleaning can i run the car for for few seconds without spark plugs to ensure no fluid stayed inside after cleaning with crc spray?
Better is to look into tapping and plugging the intake runner port holes to the valve cover and externalize your low-side PCV system (via RB Turbo's kit) through a low-flow catch can (like a mishimoto or cheap ones on amazon like Tasan Racing). This way, you separate the valve cover from all boost, making it less likely to crack and/or make the gasket leak. Also, under vacuum conditions, plugging those holes keeps oil mist out of the intake runners (because it would then be redirected to a catch can first before going back to your throttle body). I catch 3x as much oil in the low side than the high side through the BMS can.
Well Done!!!! I will be doing this job here in a month or so. End of the year project. I was planning on buying the walnut kit but now seeing this, I will try this first.
chrisius32678 Awesome, good luck!
How did it go bro
Thank you for this video, I was able to clean all the junk liquid with my armor-all vaccum since it came with really thin and long attachments for detailing interiors, the best thing is that it also sucks water so it was the best option :) amazing cleaner that is
Do you need to disconnect High Pressure Fuel Pump in order to evacuate liquid from cylinder at 34:00 ? Because I'd imagine there would be a lot of fuel sprayed otherwise...
Great demo on what that stuff can do. Thanks for the extra work!
What a great tutorial! That starter bump trick is amazing! Although I don’t know if I will turbo the crank my hand when I do mine just to make sure the valves I’m working on are completely closed, but really good!
take out the plugs, and you can turn the engine over y hand.. a true tech would know that
Don't know what to say. You are excellent . Respect for you from Egypt
I always wondered if this product would work better than brake cleaner because it's semi new in most Auto parts stores. Good stuff!
Tony Mendoza Yeah it worked way better than I expected.
Good idea to change the oil after doing this before you start the car.
39:08 -39:21-- Carbon mist liquid on ground. I’ve seen carbon flakes before size of penny- quarter mostly from carbs motors used #Seafoam #B-12 Berry Man’s #CRC #AMSOILFoam
Im also using this methods to clean my Mazda 3 skyactiv engine. I'm modifying a electric pump to suck all the dirty carbon out. Making sure no carbon deposits sucked into the combustion chamber, or else you might blocked the cat converter.
Great video bro👍
Hi Felix, you also gave the starter a jump to close the valve? No engine warning light up?
Wai Hong Phun im using a 21mm wrench soket to move the crank pulley to close the valves
Felix what engine is yours, petrol or diesel? Does it gunk up badly?
this is the first product that i see demonstrated thats works
Henk Smit when you follow the instructions on the can you won’t get near the same results, he cleaned it his own way. I guess other products work well too if done the same way he did in the video and not the way they recommend on the cans
@@ia3423 Thanks for reaction, i did'nt now the instructions are different
It works better on a hot engine. Using it every oil change or every other oil change will keep the valves spotless.
Great video. I already had my E93 walnut blasted at 60,000mi (it may seem premature but it they were pretty disgusting) but my daily driver is a Ford Fusion 2.0 GDI motor. I think I'll try this process.
You might try carb cleaner it is a little bit more oily don't use break clean until you are sure you're happy with your carbon removal then maybe use brake clean to remove any oil products and small carbon pieces
I made a small compromise. I did order the weird vacuum tool for the walnut blasting, but i don't have a media blaster yet so. I'm gonna do this exact thing, along with running the vacuum and compressor. Should do exactly this and if i take my time i should get near the same results as both
Really good video, I have been considering completing an intake clean on one of my cars.
Well I’m seeing this video five months after you put it out. It would’ve been good if you had like a shop vac, something with a lot of power and a narrow suction tip to suck all that gunk out would’ve made the job much easier and the valves cleaner. Also like a soft brush tip, something like a narrow soft brush hooked Up to a drill to clean and buff out all the extra carbon sludge if you know what I’m saying.
非常正确非常正确
This is so much easier if you just take off the charge pipe and follow the instructions by spraying it past the throttle body opening. Much, much easier.
Much, much less effective
I decided to do the CRC procedure when my Mazda hit about 10Kmi. I figure if I do their specified procedure every 10,000-15,000 mi, I won't have to take apart the top of the engine later on. This'll prevent the carbon from building up in the first place. Otherwise, I'd probably have to get a catch can.
Catch can is better. The specified procedure might do a little but not much even if you do it that often.
Get a can of computer cleaner (compressed air) to clean out or a shop vac. Other then that....Great video
29:00
2013 F30 ActiveHybrid 3, basically an N55 335i with an electric motor added. I cannot get the charge pipe off the throttle body without significant disassembly, which I am not willing to do. With the clip loosened, I can only push the pipe down about a half inch or so before its own length and stiffness prevent it from going any further. So that spray inlet is not an option. There's a sensor on the pipe a few inches below the throttle body but I'd have to get some sort of angled wrench and torx sockets to get that out of the pipe. Tight clearances everywhere in that area.
Just finish this exact process to my e90 335i. My start was a little better and I needed two cans to complete the job lol
gnicevids how’s it drive?
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Much appreciated.
would not have believed this if I had not seen it myself. Wow. And you might be able to use a little fish aquarium pump to suck fluid out of those valve areas. They pump fluids, have small hoses and are dirt cheap.
Dual hot air intakes with filters that stop nothing but gum wrappers! Cool! Gotta be good for at least a 50hp boost!
Turbo cars have an intercooler so all the intakes are for is less restrictive airflow. It doesnt make much of a difference unless hes a running on a jb4 or something
Great comment - for a non turbo car. Ever heard of an intercooler?
Put a RX catch can on your BMW that will fix your problem you won’t need to do valve cleaning anymore. Thanks for the vid .
silver4K It happens due to the direct injection since there is no gas going through the intake/ intake valves
yeh.. a catch can will only prolong the carbon build-up.. it doesn't 100% prevent it for the future... you'll still be best to check on the condition every year or so
I would say your best bet would be to get Methanol Injection!! Increase power AND clean those valves seeing as the meth woul dbe sprayed in BEFORE the intake valves. ;)
Adrian Gutierrez
That's what a catch can does. Catches the oil and carbons from your crank case so it doesn't get on your valves. Catch cans are made for DI/turbo engines.
Mal P
A good catch can gets 95% of the carbon and oil. That prolongs this issue for quite awhile.
Thank you for your video. I have to say, I don’t understand you, because you have so good acces to the valves, so why don’t you use walnut blaster. You can buy a blaster for about 20 euro and walnut for 30 euro. I will take about 2-3 minutes for every valve and when you are done all your valves look likes brand new and it is such a easy job. Just my opinion, have a nice day.
khndenmark I just walnut blasted mine it took very long time but results are awesome 👏🏼 I will not do nothing but walnut blast in my motor
who sells walnut blasters for 20 euros?
@@Felix-ry9pc harbor freight
Lmao where the F can you get a walnut blaster for 20$ Then you need a air compressor to and the BMW adapter which is like 100$.
@@JackRR15 Harbor freight. There's write ups on BMW forums. But you still need a compressor and a vacuum. you can do it without that special $100 or so dollar tool but it will be messier and get walnut shells everywhere unless you tape everything up. Essentially you are just media blasting the carbon off the valves. But depending on how neat / frequent you do it (like for customers) you want to do it you might opt for more specialized stuff that will help you do the job faster / efficiently.
Great video on using CRC intake valve cleaner to remove heavy carbon . One question ? What if you use CRC cleaner 11 oz. 4 times over 21 days of CRC sprayed directly in throttle in 1 second spirts . Would this be strong enough to do almost the same outcome ? Rev as directed on can then heat soak for 2 hours . Then drive on highway for 15 min . Then change the oil . Any thoughts ? Thank you
I did mine with e85, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and a few different brushes. Oh and a shop vacuum. Didn't blow myself up. Mine were really bad tho. Worse than yours. Good vid.
BMW, the ultimate driving machine, but they can't figure out how to keep this from happening?
Factory and dealers working together to get your money.
Good video. Thanks.
Cristian A not true at all. Do your research. All direct injection vehicles have this problem. While it has its ups this is a short downfall. Learn to do it yourself and the dealer shouldn’t come Into play. 👍🏼
Cristian A not true at all. Do your research. All direct injection vehicles have this problem. While it has its ups this is a short downfall. Learn to do it yourself and the dealer shouldn’t come Into play.
@@whiteout7533
I know they do, some worse than others. Our company uses 740i's and they are really bad cars.
They could very well use a filtration system similar to catch cans and terminate this issue. Not acceptable. Our 740's go thru lots of oil before oil changes, especially when running 0w20 as recommended.