Welding up the slots is the way I limited the advance back when I did a LOT of recurves. I welded up both sides of the slot and then used my Sun distributor machine to figure out which side of the slot to file to get the curve I wanted. I also cut the tips off both advance weights so they didn’t bottom out on each other. This also requires cutting the fat end of the weights to make them lighter. With this setup I needed fairly stiff springs which makes the weights unlikely to hang up which can happen with very light springs. You must have a distributor machine to get it right.
@@truthboomertruthbomber5125 I have a distributor machine but I seldom use it with the new timing lights I adjust spring pressure to get my advance to come in where I want it on the car
Thanks for sharing. There's so much hidden performance in ignition curves. This was more relevant back in the day but valuable information nonetheless.
@@EverythingHorsepower ive seen those an i cant see any difference in them than the factory ones. i dont see how they will reduce the mechanical advance any.
Ran HEI for years on a 327, 400 hp +, never had that much of a problem. You probably have too big a cam in your dinky 305.Proper carburation and a good combination and tuning goes a long way. The only thing I would suggest for the HEI is a better module and coil for street . For racing get rid of the weights and vacuum advance and lock the shaft for whatever all in timing and use a start retard.
@@havebenthere definitely welding an HEI solid fixes the mechanical advance problem and I actually haven’t driven the dinky 305 yet I’m basing the timing issues on hundreds of customer cars over the years coming in with similar problems and a wide variety of engine combos
Maybe this is a medium cam- 250@50 , 531 lift 108deg. 355cu.in. i welded mine, full timing is 36-37, 10.5:1 and 94gas. Car was/is more responsive, i think the cam liked it
Don't need much timing for Vortec heads. Good thing you did this
Welding up the slots is the way I limited the advance back when I did a LOT of recurves. I welded up both sides of the slot and then used my Sun distributor machine to figure out which side of the slot to file to get the curve I wanted. I also cut the tips off both advance weights so they didn’t bottom out on each other. This also requires cutting the fat end of the weights to make them lighter. With this setup I needed fairly stiff springs which makes the weights unlikely to hang up which can happen with very light springs. You must have a distributor machine to get it right.
@@truthboomertruthbomber5125 I have a distributor machine but I seldom use it with the new timing lights I adjust spring pressure to get my advance to come in where I want it on the car
They work great, polush weights clean all the rust medium springs. No vacume advance.
Thanks for sharing. There's so much hidden performance in ignition curves. This was more relevant back in the day but valuable information nonetheless.
Definitely old school but there’s still a lot of them out there
@@EverythingHorsepower mine included 😁🇺🇲🤘
Sorry if I missed it but with this type of HEI, do you need the vacuum hose connected or can it run without. Thanks for the video!
You can run it either way
Welcome to the late 90s bro they used electric ignition "coil on spark". 😂
Good stuff man!
won't welding the wrong side affect phasing with all that initial timing?
The only thing it affects is spring tension in my opinion
I find it really helps
i wish they would aftermarket set bushings for these HEI's that would be a set amount you could install. like they do cams for timing
@@141runn apparently Moroso makes a recurve kit I’ve ordered one to see what’s in it
@@EverythingHorsepower ive seen those an i cant see any difference in them than the factory ones. i dont see how they will reduce the mechanical advance any.
The kit is cheap so I have one on the way and I’ll find out but as you say it may just make the weights react quicker without limiting sweep
Hope he has 410 gears and 3000 stall..305 dont like big cams
Ran HEI for years on a 327, 400 hp +, never had that much of a problem. You probably have too big a cam in your dinky 305.Proper carburation and a good combination and tuning goes a long way. The only thing I would suggest for the HEI is a better module and coil for street . For racing get rid of the weights and vacuum advance and lock the shaft for whatever all in timing and use a start retard.
@@havebenthere definitely welding an HEI solid fixes the mechanical advance problem and I actually haven’t driven the dinky 305 yet I’m basing the timing issues on hundreds of customer cars over the years coming in with similar problems and a wide variety of engine combos
Your problem is a 305 ci
Maybe this is a medium cam- 250@50 , 531 lift 108deg. 355cu.in. i welded mine, full timing is 36-37, 10.5:1 and 94gas. Car was/is more responsive, i think the cam liked it
You need medium springs
😎👍🏁
They sell kits to do that without welding 😂