On an engine lathe, picking up an internal thread to re-cut it, can be frustrating. This video shows a rock solid technique for getting the job done. Take a Look !!
I have in the past done it strictly visual by adjusting as the tool rubs in one point. Using the dial indicator to split the difference is a good idea.
Joe, putting the DTI on the end of the boring bar was bloody brilliant. I can see some other uses for this idea! Well done Also, when you visit the Fang Farrier (dentist) don't be shy about putting in a request for his or her broken tools. They only throw them out, and they can be very useful to us "engineers" 😎
Last time I chased a thread was using standard Aloris holders and an insert bar. I used the compound to feel either side of the thread and noted the travel and backlash. Bounced back and forth until I found the root and backed off a few thou. Make sure you have all the backlash loaded in the correct direction on everything! Especially the half nut. Joe I like the use of the indicator. I was running more seat of the pants to chase a very large UNS optical thread.
Thanks for sharing this idea, thankfully I have not had to pick up internal threads yet but have picked up on a number of external ones. I really like your idea for threading with the spindle in reverse and am now looking for a reverse threading bar to the one I have. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks, it is very much appreciated as you have some cool ways pf doing things!
You don't need a reverse handed threading tool, in fact it won't work, even with the lathe running backwards. In the same way that a LH nut will not run onto a RH thread, even if you turn it around. Just turn the conventional RH threading tool you have upside down, or leave it right way up but at the far side of the hole, like Joe does.
Hi Joe - your use of the split thread for clarity purposes is a great teaching aid . Keep the great videos a coming ! thannks for taking the time to do this
It looked as if there was a single V groove, amounting to a screw thread of zero pitch, to allow spinning the spindle up to speed before engaging the half nuts.
Another good video Joe!.... One caveat might be, for novice machinist, is to not forget that the job came in as a repair, meaning that the threads will be mashed, rolled over, gouged, etc, so their start number of .020" in this video case, needs to be sneaked up on to avoid chipping a tool on the damaged spots. Well done !
When I was an apprentice, I was shown this technique, but used the compound slide to find the centre of the groove. The indicator was looking at the compound movement. It is also the same technique for an outside thread to be picked up. The only difference was that after the lathe engagement and had checked the thread pitch , the chuck was hand turned in the direction of the thread cut. This made sure there was no backlash in the gear train. Also lock the carriage so it is stable in position. Great post Joe as always.
Have just found your chanel, as i set up a home workshop to do my own gunsmithing ( bolt action ), these machine tips and tricks are awesome, thanks to people like yourself that take the time to help others!
Hi Joe, Very funny " unloosen", also my Australian partner say we both pronounce the word "across" wrong, lol Nobody seems to understand Americans. Your video was great as I usually find. I was interested in your design for the boring bar collet system for the quick change tool post, very versatile. Like its abilty to float into position but is it really more rigid? Can only think about variation in 2 bore sizes; collet and bore of the holder, compared to just lock in a tool holder. Just interested in your thoughts Joe. I do appreciate your time spent on delivery a great video and follow ups.
The hole in the mounted block is always 1". You can use 1" bars in the main block and use collars for smaller tools. I have 3/4, 5/8 and 1/2. For 3/8 and smaller, I have dedicated adapters. May be a good video topic.
My internal threading is almost exclusively on parts without a stop groove, but also without a shoulder right up against the threads. Is there a way to start the reverse threading technique without a groove to start the tool in? I do a lot of truing of threads which are never cut straight to the bore of the part when I get it. Normally end up with a thread that's .010" oversize, then cut the mating part to match the oversize thread. My process for picking up the thread is much the same as yours, but I currently thread toward the chuck, back out at the end of the cut and disengage the half nuts simultaneously. It makes me nervous and I've broken my fair share of inserts by not getting out of the cut in time.
Thank you for showing Joe. The say, that when you stop learning you are done, well, following you and your videos I can categorically say I will never stop learning, THANK YOU FROM MD AND HAVE A GOOD DAY.
Could you please make a video detailing Buttress threads. I can't seem to find any information on the set-up (compound rest angle) and procedure of machining this type of thread which is mostly for hydraulic applications. The Machinery Handbook gives many specs but no procedures. Thanks! I love the videos!
Buttress threads only have one angled flank so you can simply plunge straight in without topslide (compound slide) set-over... 🙄😏 Set-over is used to stop the cutter cutting both flanks at the same time , this cannot happen with the buttress so no set-over needed... make sense ? Joe can correct me if I'm wrong... I'm only a hobbyist but this is my understanding & my experience... 🤓 BTW... the cutter profile would look like a woodworking chisel on its side..kinda like this.. /| 😎👍☘️🍺
Peter Fitzpatrick I think some buttress threads have a slight amount of angle on the “straight” side as well. But this is small enough that you probably won’t need to worry about it.
@@literoadie3502 looking at charts I see what you mean... in which case , to be correct, I assume you would set the compound to that small angle instead of 90°plunge cut... thanks for making me look , laziness is a bad thing... 🙄😂 😎👍☘️🍺
@@literoadie3502 can't see any reason why not, as long as there was a big enough production run to make it worth it... rolled would definitely be stronger... I'd imagine those rolls are quite spendy tho... 🙄😖 😎👍☘🍺
If you are chasing threads that have been worn and/or distorted how do you pick up your center of thread with confidence? Some that have been over torqued can also stretch the thread. I like the idea of putting an indicator on the back side but am confused about how you keep everything in position when you unlock the half nuts during set up? Thanks for a good video.
The location of the tip of a threading tool is mechanically set to be coordinated with the machine movement. Once its set, you can engage and release the half nut as much as you want and it won't forget where it is. As for chasing beat up threads, I would suggest finding an area that looks good and set your tools there. Watch that first pass and adjust if necessary.
Awesome technique, as always, Joe! Thanks for posting. The concept of threading away from the chuck is just brilliant. So simple, why hasn’t it been done like this forever?
It's funny when you see this for the first time you go -"duh! Now I don't have to be a ninja with the half nut!" I started to use it all the time because my lathe has a metric leadscrew and no threading dial. Makes the whole stop-out-reverse-in-forward thing sooooo much easier for when you can't unlock the half nut during threading.
Hi Joe, Not sure if I wasn't paying attention, but did you mention anything about making sure all the backlash is out of the system when setting the tool in the correct position? I always find it amazing just how much backlash most lathes have the geartrain for the leadscrew mechanism.
Great job you made this dreaded problem easy! One question though after you picked up on your thread did you put the spindle in neutral to change speeds ? Because I thought that would change the position of your threading insert to the thread.
I did disengage it once. I'll have to try that again before I say it didn't hurt anything or maybe I just got lucky. Normally I wouldn't change anything to be sure.
Thanks for the video, great information, and explanation! I have this same situation but I have to chase a damaged Acme thread (12 tpi). I assume the same technique would apply but would need to use an acme thread boring bar?
Joe.......true dental mirrors are " first surface " mirrors. The mirrored surface is applied to the outside surface. Very fragile but they do not give the distorted or double image of the typical tool truck mirror where the mirror surface is on the backside of the glass.
I learned how to do threading from your vids. Made my first thread yesterday but I forgot to put it in reverse and made a pristine left handed thread hahaha live and learn. You r a genius man. Thank you
Joe, I wish I saw this video yesterday as I was cutting a 1-7/8 x 6 spindle adapter. One of the threads got buggered up near my undercut and I had a seriously hard time picking the thread back up to finish the job. Now I know for next time! Thank you as always for what you do for us novices.
The Arachnid on your whiteboard looks more like an Formicidae... Anyway, this is another of your videos that I liked very much. Your way of explaining of what and why you are doing things is something that makes me follow your channel. Being an amateur machinist with an engineering background, I learn something new by watching your videos. Regards from the Nethrlands.
Hey Joe, thank you so much for your efforts and planing to present relevant and purposeful video content to our machinist community. BTW, please start a senior division for your maze challenge for the 2020 Summer Bash, no prizes needed, just bragging rites for us old machinists.
Could you thread a bolt into the threads and then pick up the threads on the bolt to align your tool? Remove bolt then feed in with the cross slide to get to depth. I guess that may be difficult with damaged threads.
@@duckslayer11000 Can you explain why? When Joe Pie was showing his procedure, I was imagining that my way of doing it would be to thread a bolt in and get the alignment from the bolt's thread high points. I believe you that it's not a good way but is it from experience that you say no?
@@Peter-V_00 That's why I said you would need to use the high points. I dunno, I've never tried it. Maybe it's too sloppy that way. You have to take the backlash out first either way though.
Nicely done Joe, there's something to be said for keeping the top flat surface of the boring threading tool nice and true. It lets you move the tool back and forth without the set screws influencing the location.
IT is over 50 years that I have operating many type of engine lathes ,Turret lathes and CNC lathe . I never new how to pick up an inside thread. Thanks a lot i really appreciate this video. Thanks Thanks again and again.
My very first attempt at picking up a thread was on an internal. It certainly wasn't voluntary! Thankfully, it was on a large bore, 5 tpi, and near the beginning of that operation, so it was a little easier to absorb any differences in how the tool bit was set. That slip was the first of several that convinced me that the old original lantern tool post could not be trusted. There are "turret" tool posts, I started calling this one my "tourette's" tool post, as it became the cause of several sudden outbursts of profanity ...
Thanks Joe, I must have missed this one, shame on me. I do this often when truing actions, if you don’t bring the thread into coaxial alignment the other work goes out the window when the tube gets tightened. Time to order a left hand threading bar.
Speaking of mirrors....there are now (relatively) inexpensive USB borescope video cameras available that will go into places a dental mirror has no hope to fit in. Takes a little mental practice to comprehend things on a screen as well as you do in a mirror but it's worth it. I have two - one was a "real" borescope for around $50, the other a "find your wife's ring that went down the drain" version for around half that price (it's lower resolution and a little larger in diameter with a somewhat longer focal length). I hate to say which insanely popular online store I found these on, you can guess. Once you get used to them they are super useful tools in the shop, and not just for gunsmithing jobs. I happen to have a regular computer in my shop with a big screen for all kinds of uses (like showing prints and specs large enough to read across the room) but a cheap chromebook or laptop would do fine for this as well.
@@joepie221 Here's one with short focal length and side view mirrors - www.amazon.com/Teslong-Borescope-Side-View-Semi-Rigid-Smartphone/dp/B07TTQF24F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QYQLFJPNAIXF&dchild=1&keywords=teslong+borescope&qid=1600521163&sprefix=teslong%2Caps%2C648&sr=8-3 There are also cheaper lower resolution ones with super long cables for finding things in bad places. Also useful as they focus around an inch out. Search for "endoscope" for those. Either can be had for a lot more money if you get a screen with them, but any computer will work with them if it has any software that will display a camera (linux, windows, mac, android, ios).
@@mrksts1 that was the joke but @helishskills had to ruin it by pointing out that unloosen is apparently a word. You guys really make me angry to the point I might catch on fire. I hope my underwear is inflammable !
Joe, where the hell were you 40 years ago when I started Machining?? If I ever get to Austin someday, I want to shake your Hand. you are awesome. Keep it coming.
I would imagine that when first engaging the half nut (4:14), we would need to be mindful of the thread dial for the particular thread so that when we later engage the half nut to clean-up the thread(13:35 ), it is properly indexed to the thread. Correct?
Hello Joe, I believe I got most of this technique. Here's one where I don't think it would work at all and have no idea how to approach this. I have a mid eighties Maglite C cell. Now Maglite makes its own proprietary thread. It is a mighty fine and light one too. I do not know if the internal one is the same as the external. In these earlier Maglites the switch is held in by a threaded collar that engages this internal thread. Your mission should you choose to accept it is: How to identify such a minute thread inside a small barrel (a C size doesn't give much room for either vision or sizing tools! Don't know if the thread gets bigger on the D size but I don't think it changes??). How to 'feel' that thread which is not only very small but in aluminum. Then chase that thread which starts and ends inside the barrel. I am not even sure if it is a 60 degree thread. How to measure that fine a thread inside a blind small bore and how to make a tool to do the cutting (probably the easiest of a difficult set of problems) seems a tough one. Thanks again for your excellent videos. Take care and Happy New Year. Doug
Use some clay, press it into the internal thread to make a mirror copy of the thread pitch and angle. View the clay on your optical comparator to be able to grind your tool to match. Joes method is good here....what I do is simply loosen the threading tool in the holder, then push the tool into the thread groove since the tip of the tool will follow the groove and align itself until it bottoms out. Make sure backlash is taken up in the direction of travel before locking everything down.
@@drd1924 Me too. (Both tricks). If I want a more permanent impression of a thread or internal feature, I use kneadable epoxy putty (the coaxial stick form) and spray sparingly with a volatile release agent which flashes off.
I'm 20 seconds into the video and I shut it off the way I do it is I screw in a thread to the peace to extend the internal thread to be visible external to the peace and pick it up that way really easy, use your threads peak to peak dimension measurement and you'll fall right in the thread track
Yes sir. I keep dozens of pieces of scrap 11/8 -12 and 18 tpi threaded stock, and every other odd size that may come in, around just for when I need to do that. But, the idea does have it's place. Joe's way is obviously applicable in almost all cases.
Hi Joe, I am not expert in this field but I have a question to ask. is there any way to retread the internal treads of an actuator with rough tread ? these treads are harden to bear heavy load so its not soft metal.
Joe, we all know that you are close to being a master. A challenge for thee: Coat with red Dykem,, top with the blue Dykem, then cut till just the red is left. Just kidding. Fine method!
Joe, if the thread is not concentric to the OD of the part, how do you indicate the bore of the thread before attempting this operation? If the thread was good, I suppose a tight fitting gauge pin extending from the bore might work. Thoughts? Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us common folk.
Hi Joe, good explanation, and easy to perform. I do have a question, if you covered this point in the video and I missed it -appologies, it's my age! I think there might be potential for tool tip movement in both planes between picking up the thread and locking the bar in the toolholder, do you take up the 'slack' on the clamp screws to limit 'slop' before picking up the thread? P.S. in the UK we 'slacken' the carrage stop lock screw!
Off camera I am pushing the bar in and out while dialing the cross slide into the thread. i can feel the range of motion getting smaller as I dial it in. when I detect the in and out motion has stopped, I tighten the tool. back it out a bit for the first pass.
Joe, this has been a godsend for me. Threading in reverse is a revelation making it so easy to work to a dead stop or should I say from a dead stop. Brilliant! I just did an internal thread only 1.5 mm deep and 0.5mm pitch!
@@bpark10001 In truth it was a custom thread of 7mm dia but 50 tpi. This meant I could engage the half but using the timing dial on my imperial Myford.
Nice procedure Joe, I wrote to you last winter about a similar situation, I was into during restoration on a very old screw jack that had broken on my Grandfather when a wood wheel came off the axle on a fully loaded hay wagon being pulled horse team on the way back to the barn it was sometime in the mid-s20. My father always told the story about Papa pulling the broken jack out from under the wagon mad as hell and walk over to huge gully and toss it as far as he could. The jack was rediscovered in the early s70s when the farm was being developed into an apartment complex by an excavator operator that was good friends with my father. I guess since it was buried deeply in a clay swamp it was preserved fairly well. That's when I first heard the story about the jack, my dad was about ten years old at the time it happened. My dad hung onto that broken old jack for the rest of his life and it was passed on to me with the request to get it working again. I did, but it's only an ornamental piece now. I could have done a much better job had I saw your video first. My sister has it hanging on a wall in her family room now along with many other artifacts from our family. Thanks!
years ago I had a small lathe and I didn't know you could thread from the head towards the tailstock but, once I tried it and saw that it did work, then I, too, adopted that approach to threading because the conventional approach never made any sense to me; it was far too risky. fortunately for me, I've never had any problem shunning convention to try a different approach. Driving big rigs I learned, pretty quickly, to shun the traditional approach to breaking while going downhill. Training says to pick a gear, before going down the hill, and then stay in that gear the entire way down. That gear might end up being too high a gear and you have to "over brake" to prevent the rig from gaining too much speed. You over brake and your brakes fade - translation, you lose your braking ability and you're now a gravity powered missile with zero alternative ways to slow or stop. The solution is to use the left foot for only one purpose - maintain 10# of air pressure on the brakes. 10# air pressure is a magic number because it does slow the rig but it also is the air pressure at which you CANNOT fade your brakes. So, when I'd go over a hill I'd use my left foot only to maintain 10# of air on the brakes. If 10#'s wasn't slowing the rig enough then I'd goose the fuel, pop the stick to neutral, goose the fuel again and downshift. Rinse and repeat until the combination of 10# brake pressure and the gear chosen kept the truck at a safe speed. The conventional approach is suicidal and yet many viewed my approach as suicidal because they'd had it hammered into their heads that you NEVER change gears while going downhill. Well, the conventional way nearly killed me, whereas my method was trouble free for nearly 17 years and I feared no hill - no matter how steep - because I knew the safest method to successfully get down ANY hill! Convention be damned, do what you know works. :)
@@gangleweed yes, double clutching..... you cannot and should NEVER double clutch when going down a hill. Very dangerous. One should float the gears. No double clutching and I never had a big rig with synchronous transmissions. You "could" double clutch but I never met a big rig driver that did that. The truck you're referring to also could have had the gears "floated" rather than double clutching which is always dangerous to do.
As usual very well described. The only suggestion that I would make would be to determine the speed that you intend to run the part since on some lathes changing the speed after locating the tool can create a problem concerning location.
Joe, have you ever done a segment on those boring bar bushings? If no, I’d live to see one. I need to make some for my lathe. Thanks for all your awesome videos!
Thanks Joe - your timing is perfect! I recently bought a South Bend (Skinner) chuck on ebay for my Craftsman lathe. Wouldn't you know it. That snooty South Bend chuck refuses to thread fully onto the Craftsman spindle. (Yes, I have cleaned both the threads thoroughly.) The question of who is wrong in a situation like this is interesting. I have tried measuring the spindle over thread measuring wires, but I have a hard time getting repeatable numbers. Will make another try at that tomorrow. I think that regardless of which part is wrong, I will try to increase the pitch diameter of the chuck hub rather than messing with the threads on my lathe spindle. That's probably not something a noob like me should be doing :-)
Joe, I made a fixture to hold the thread measuring wires and and am getting somewhat more consistent readings. I find that the lathe spindle PD is a little oversize. Nevertheless, I am going to modify the chuck hub, not the spindle. Modifying my lathe spindle is just not something I'm comfortable doing at my current skill level. Thanks again for a great video just exactly at the time I needed the information.
@@joepie221 In not good with Madden stuff Link ? He as a channel in you tube. Stefan Or Stephon he is German Or astrain Speaks good English , & he dos fine work , By fine I mean shall & fascinating stuff. You will enjoy he work . I was trying to avid fitting ahead screw to my old lathe & it was He that revelled how it could be done By the ues of a thread-Mill ? you should check him out When i want to find him on RUclips I type In Treadmilling. On a engine lath. I i get him. that's my link i suppose. ! hop this help's .
I like the boring bar I do think it could work well in a 4 sided conventional toll holder so to reduce the need for shimming, I have a large 3/4 tool holder that requires me to shim toling to center hight & loads of shimming to center height. your system may eliminate that need, by the use of HSS round tool steel, or square broached hols and sleeves drilled on center. in the lathe you using it opens up possibilities to tern an OLD FASHIONED tool holding SISTEM IN TH A MODEN ONE in a very POABAL BENEFITS FOR MY LATHE. THANK YOU, LES TOMPSON ENGLAND. MAY I UES YOR IDEAR. England. pleas, the es of a changeable sleeve. set on center adds tool changing possibilities. to rival, the Quik change thank you.
Engine Lathes are easy. I was doing this 30 years ago. I just came up with a new process two days ago on a CNC lathe without a compound. 3 5/8-12 ID thread repair on a 10' long telescoping tube. I picked a position behind the Chuck to make a timing mark on the Head Stock and Mounting Ring. I used a small amount of JB Weld to cover a small spot of about the first 4 thread. After setting Z0 at the end of the tube I checked the timing marks then moved the threading bar to the center of the first full thread. Marked down Z-.175" I set program to start at Z+.100". Run first pass and stopped. Checked the marks over the JB Weld. Looked Good. Run the Program to end. Needed minor adjustment to X diameter and about 0.004" to Z. Ran 10 tubes before quitting time.
Great video, as always. Joe, can you recommend some left hand insert threading bars that might be good for various ranges of TPI, and what insert nomenclature are good for which TPI, and what the numbers mean, e.g. 16ER, AG60, etc.,etc. I'm just getting into insert tooling and would like to minimize my "variants" of inserts. That would be awesome!
Hi Joe Excellent video again, I used to work in a Ballscrew factory in Coventry 🇬🇧,1980 to 2005 and nobody cut threads weather it was a ball track or threads the way you do, I now do it your way, thinking about it your way would have helped a lot!
Fantastic! That is one job that has always caused me the most grief... Thanks! The boring\threading bar jig is outstanding...one holder and all bar sizes on center.... amazing.
Nice video techniques, you are no amateur. Also like the way you used a sectioned piece of work to illustrate the cut. I've known of turning from, how would you say, on the back side with the spindle turning backwards, nothing like threading a blind hole, done it many times, making camera lens adapters, etc. I've always done the threading by "feeling" where the bit was, not by using the dial indicator and splitting the difference to find the center of the thread. Nice work, as usual. Jim
You should be able to prove all the setup steps using an external thread which would be easier to see, followed by practicing to gain confidence prior to attempting to chase an internal thread. Also, when chasing from left to right, it seems you would need to take all the backlash out of the compound by moving the compound dial counterclockwise against the outside of the thread.
I hope I never have to use that trick. At the very beginning of this demonstration My only thought was, how's he gonna line this up. very clear demonstration Thanks Joe
Good stuff Joe. The half part was great for the visual. I've had to do this a few times... more so with od threading. I once had to pick up a 10-32 thread on the cnc to thread mill it a little larger when it shrunk with heat treating. Basically used the same principle as you have described here.
Great Technique as well as video Joe Thanks heaps for this along with all your other tutorials. This is not something I have encountered as yet however I am aware now of a sound and accurate process to do this. Many thanks Joe from John, Australia.
If the diameter is big enough to get fingers inside, I’m thinking of using a tab with threads on it and a ground flat positioned directly in line with the thread for locating the tool from it.
I have in the past done it strictly visual by adjusting as the tool rubs in one point. Using the dial indicator to split the difference is a good idea.
Even though I don't have some of these machines, I always get some value out of these videos. Some day I'll have a small shop.
Yup, those inside threads are hard to pickup....they don’t go out much.
Joe, putting the DTI on the end of the boring bar was bloody brilliant. I can see some other uses for this idea! Well done
Also, when you visit the Fang Farrier (dentist) don't be shy about putting in a request for his or her broken tools. They only throw them out, and they can be very useful to us "engineers" 😎
You can find a surprising amount of small useful tools at gun and knife shows.
where would we be without the dial indicator? a true friend of the machinist!
Absolutely one of the most important tools in the box and one of the first things a new machinist should buy. QUALITY !!!! Buy nice or buy twice :)
Last time I chased a thread was using standard Aloris holders and an insert bar. I used the compound to feel either side of the thread and noted the travel and backlash. Bounced back and forth until I found the root and backed off a few thou. Make sure you have all the backlash loaded in the correct direction on everything! Especially the half nut. Joe I like the use of the indicator. I was running more seat of the pants to chase a very large UNS optical thread.
Yes, great video! I laugh every time you say "unloosen"😁 I enjoy and learn something every time I watch your channel. Keep sharing the knowledge!
Thanks for sharing this idea, thankfully I have not had to pick up internal threads yet but have picked up on a number of external ones. I really like your idea for threading with the spindle in reverse and am now looking for a reverse threading bar to the one I have.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks, it is very much appreciated as you have some cool ways pf doing things!
Thanks. I love a good challenge and a shop is usually full of them.
You don't need a reverse handed threading tool, in fact it won't work, even with the lathe running backwards. In the same way that a LH nut will not run onto a RH thread, even if you turn it around.
Just turn the conventional RH threading tool you have upside down, or leave it right way up but at the far side of the hole, like Joe does.
12 people think the thumbs down is the download button! Lol great technique as always!
Hi Joe - your use of the split thread for clarity purposes is a great teaching aid . Keep the great videos a coming !
thannks for taking the time to do this
I had it laying around. You should have seen me indicating it in.
Joe this is an absolutely brilliant method! That bit about putting the test indicator on the ass end of the boring bar..... That's just great!
I didn't notice a thread relief at your starting point...how does that work?
It looked as if there was a single V groove, amounting to a screw thread of zero pitch, to allow spinning the spindle up to speed before engaging the half nuts.
Wow, you just made your own "Half Nut" LOL I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work!
Another good video Joe!.... One caveat might be, for novice machinist, is to not forget that the job came in as a repair, meaning that the threads will be mashed, rolled over, gouged, etc, so their start number of .020" in this video case, needs to be sneaked up on to avoid chipping a tool on the damaged spots. Well done !
When I was an apprentice, I was shown this technique, but used the compound slide to find the centre of the groove. The indicator was looking at the compound movement. It is also the same technique for an outside thread to be picked up. The only difference was that after the lathe engagement and had checked the thread pitch , the chuck was hand turned in the direction of the thread cut. This made sure there was no backlash in the gear train. Also lock the carriage so it is stable in position.
Great post Joe as always.
Hey Joe, I love your videos. They are an example of logical problem solving and lateral thinking. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thanks for watching.
Have just found your chanel, as i set up a home workshop to do my own gunsmithing ( bolt action ), these machine tips and tricks are awesome, thanks to people like yourself that take the time to help others!
Welcome aboard! Hit that sub button. :)
Hi Joe, Very funny " unloosen", also my Australian partner say we both pronounce the word "across" wrong, lol
Nobody seems to understand Americans.
Your video was great as I usually find.
I was interested in your design for the boring bar collet system for the quick change tool post, very versatile. Like its abilty to float into position but is it really more rigid? Can only think about variation in 2 bore sizes; collet and bore of the holder, compared to just lock in a tool holder.
Just interested in your thoughts Joe.
I do appreciate your time spent on delivery a great video and follow ups.
I'll be adding one of those holders to my to make list.
The hole in the mounted block is always 1". You can use 1" bars in the main block and use collars for smaller tools. I have 3/4, 5/8 and 1/2. For 3/8 and smaller, I have dedicated adapters. May be a good video topic.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe for the follow up, greatly appreciated.
Sincerely
Troy Guyette
@@joepie221 thanks Joe look forward to make a holder with you, just fromAustralia though 😊
My internal threading is almost exclusively on parts without a stop groove, but also without a shoulder right up against the threads. Is there a way to start the reverse threading technique without a groove to start the tool in? I do a lot of truing of threads which are never cut straight to the bore of the part when I get it. Normally end up with a thread that's .010" oversize, then cut the mating part to match the oversize thread. My process for picking up the thread is much the same as yours, but I currently thread toward the chuck, back out at the end of the cut and disengage the half nuts simultaneously. It makes me nervous and I've broken my fair share of inserts by not getting out of the cut in time.
Thank you for showing Joe. The say, that when you stop learning you are done, well, following you and your videos I can categorically say I will never stop learning, THANK YOU FROM MD AND HAVE A GOOD DAY.
Thanks for the comment.
Could you please make a video detailing Buttress threads. I can't seem to find any information on the set-up (compound rest angle) and procedure of machining this type of thread which is mostly for hydraulic applications. The Machinery Handbook gives many specs but no procedures. Thanks! I love the videos!
Buttress threads only have one angled flank so you can simply plunge straight in without topslide (compound slide) set-over... 🙄😏
Set-over is used to stop the cutter cutting both flanks at the same time , this cannot happen with the buttress so no set-over needed... make sense ?
Joe can correct me if I'm wrong... I'm only a hobbyist but this is my understanding & my experience... 🤓
BTW... the cutter profile would look like a woodworking chisel on its side..kinda like this.. /|
😎👍☘️🍺
Peter Fitzpatrick I think some buttress threads have a slight amount of angle on the “straight” side as well. But this is small enough that you probably won’t need to worry about it.
@@literoadie3502 looking at charts I see what you mean... in which case , to be correct, I assume you would set the compound to that small angle instead of 90°plunge cut... thanks for making me look , laziness is a bad thing... 🙄😂
😎👍☘️🍺
Peter Fitzpatrick I wonder if they make any rolled buttress threads? I really like butters threads on vises and presses.
@@literoadie3502 can't see any reason why not, as long as there was a big enough production run to make it worth it... rolled would definitely be stronger... I'd imagine those rolls are quite spendy tho... 🙄😖
😎👍☘🍺
If you are chasing threads that have been worn and/or distorted how do you pick up your center of thread with confidence? Some that have been over torqued can also stretch the thread. I like the idea of putting an indicator on the back side but am confused about how you keep everything in position when you unlock the half nuts during set up? Thanks for a good video.
The location of the tip of a threading tool is mechanically set to be coordinated with the machine movement. Once its set, you can engage and release the half nut as much as you want and it won't forget where it is. As for chasing beat up threads, I would suggest finding an area that looks good and set your tools there. Watch that first pass and adjust if necessary.
Awesome technique, as always, Joe! Thanks for posting. The concept of threading away from the chuck is just brilliant. So simple, why hasn’t it been done like this forever?
It's funny when you see this for the first time you go -"duh! Now I don't have to be a ninja with the half nut!" I started to use it all the time because my lathe has a metric leadscrew and no threading dial. Makes the whole stop-out-reverse-in-forward thing sooooo much easier for when you can't unlock the half nut during threading.
Actually, some turners were doing this in the first half of the last century.
Hi Joe,
Not sure if I wasn't paying attention, but did you mention anything about making sure all the backlash is out of the system when setting the tool in the correct position? I always find it amazing just how much backlash most lathes have the geartrain for the leadscrew mechanism.
I always apply drag to the top of my handwheel while threading like a drum brake. Always. Even in this example prior to setting that tool.
Another great Pieczynski original. Fantastic. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Great job you made this dreaded problem easy! One question though after you picked up on your thread did you put the spindle in neutral to change speeds ? Because I thought that would change the position of your threading insert to the thread.
I did disengage it once. I'll have to try that again before I say it didn't hurt anything or maybe I just got lucky. Normally I wouldn't change anything to be sure.
I learn something new every time I watch your videos.
A clever machinist, with lots of actual experience, willing to share his techniques. Many thanks.
thanks.
Genius Joe, Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, great information, and explanation! I have this same situation but I have to chase a damaged Acme thread (12 tpi). I assume the same technique would apply but would need to use an acme thread boring bar?
I would say yes.
Joe.......true dental mirrors are " first surface " mirrors. The mirrored surface is applied to the outside surface. Very fragile but they do not give the distorted or double image of the typical tool truck mirror where the mirror surface is on the backside of the glass.
I never knew that.
I learned how to do threading from your vids. Made my first thread yesterday but I forgot to put it in reverse and made a pristine left handed thread hahaha live and learn. You r a genius man. Thank you
Been there!
Well done, your are ready to progress to gear cutting, I made a lovely 36 1/2 tooth wheel - once !
Joe, I wish I saw this video yesterday as I was cutting a 1-7/8 x 6 spindle adapter. One of the threads got buggered up near my undercut and I had a seriously hard time picking the thread back up to finish the job. Now I know for next time! Thank you as always for what you do for us novices.
Tl;DR: Mill away half your workpiece, so you can register the tool by eye. Done!
;-)
It works for me! 👍 But then you have to manufacture a corresponding other half.... and use some serious crazy glue!
The Arachnid on your whiteboard looks more like an Formicidae... Anyway, this is another of your videos that I liked very much. Your way of explaining of what and why you are doing things is something that makes me follow your channel. Being an amateur machinist with an engineering background, I learn something new by watching your videos. Regards from the Nethrlands.
Best teacher ever, I’m always learning new things on this channel. Big thank you Joe your the best 👍🏻
Thank you.
Great video. Love the cut away and in depth explanation! Subscription added!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the sub.
Another great tip Joe - I had moved the tool but had not thaught to use the indicator to find the center - so simple, Thanks
Me to: using an DTI never occurred to me either;-)
Thanks. Using the compound could easily lie to you or chip your tool. The indicator gets you much , much closer.
I have to agree with Keith Monarch, this is a great video, you done it again Joe.
Thanks.
Hey Joe, thank you so much for your efforts and planing to present relevant and purposeful video content to our machinist community. BTW, please start a senior division for your maze challenge for the 2020 Summer Bash, no prizes needed, just bragging rites for us old machinists.
Could you thread a bolt into the threads and then pick up the threads on the bolt to align your tool? Remove bolt then feed in with the cross slide to get to depth. I guess that may be difficult with damaged threads.
NO!
@@duckslayer11000 Can you explain why? When Joe Pie was showing his procedure, I was imagining that my way of doing it would be to thread a bolt in and get the alignment from the bolt's thread high points. I believe you that it's not a good way but is it from experience that you say no?
@@tralfazy It would be off half a thread.
@@Peter-V_00 That's why I said you would need to use the high points. I dunno, I've never tried it. Maybe it's too sloppy that way. You have to take the backlash out first either way though.
Nicely done Joe, there's something to be said for keeping the top flat surface of the boring threading tool nice and true. It lets you move the tool back and forth without the set screws influencing the location.
IT is over 50 years that I have operating many type of engine lathes ,Turret lathes and CNC lathe . I never new how to pick up an inside thread. Thanks a lot i really appreciate this video. Thanks Thanks again and again.
My very first attempt at picking up a thread was on an internal. It certainly wasn't voluntary! Thankfully, it was on a large bore, 5 tpi, and near the beginning of that operation, so it was a little easier to absorb any differences in how the tool bit was set.
That slip was the first of several that convinced me that the old original lantern tool post could not be trusted. There are "turret" tool posts, I started calling this one my "tourette's" tool post, as it became the cause of several sudden outbursts of profanity ...
Excellent! I learned a lot. Great training aid, it makes it very easy to understand what is happening (out of normal sight).
Thanks Joe, I must have missed this one, shame on me. I do this often when truing actions, if you don’t bring the thread into coaxial alignment the other work goes out the window when the tube gets tightened. Time to order a left hand threading bar.
Speaking of mirrors....there are now (relatively) inexpensive USB borescope video cameras available that will go into places a dental mirror has no hope to fit in. Takes a little mental practice to comprehend things on a screen as well as you do in a mirror but it's worth it. I have two - one was a "real" borescope for around $50, the other a "find your wife's ring that went down the drain" version for around half that price (it's lower resolution and a little larger in diameter with a somewhat longer focal length). I hate to say which insanely popular online store I found these on, you can guess. Once you get used to them they are super useful tools in the shop, and not just for gunsmithing jobs. I happen to have a regular computer in my shop with a big screen for all kinds of uses (like showing prints and specs large enough to read across the room) but a cheap chromebook or laptop would do fine for this as well.
Thanks, I may check into that.
@@joepie221 Here's one with short focal length and side view mirrors - www.amazon.com/Teslong-Borescope-Side-View-Semi-Rigid-Smartphone/dp/B07TTQF24F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QYQLFJPNAIXF&dchild=1&keywords=teslong+borescope&qid=1600521163&sprefix=teslong%2Caps%2C648&sr=8-3
There are also cheaper lower resolution ones with super long cables for finding things in bad places. Also useful as they focus around an inch out. Search for "endoscope" for those.
Either can be had for a lot more money if you get a screen with them, but any computer will work with them if it has any software that will display a camera (linux, windows, mac, android, ios).
Learning lots from your videos Joe...Thank You
Unloosen? Irregardless of whether you said that on purpose, you should always use proper english
wgm4321 it’s in the oxford dictionary
“Irregardless” is improper. Simply use “regardless”.
@@mrksts1 that was the joke but @helishskills had to ruin it by pointing out that unloosen is apparently a word. You guys really make me angry to the point I might catch on fire. I hope my underwear is inflammable !
@@wgm-en2gx LOL... Now children LOL
But the great thing about English is that you can make up words and still be understood.
Joe, where the hell were you 40 years ago when I started Machining?? If I ever get to Austin someday, I want to shake your Hand. you are awesome. Keep it coming.
Good solid solution to an awkward problem. Thanks Joe, I'm still learning!
awesome lesson and now another build project for the list....atb
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Hope all is well.
When you said 'un-loosen', I nearly wet my pants. Love it, great info as always. Kindest regards. Joe.
I would imagine that when first engaging the half nut (4:14), we would need to be mindful of the thread dial for the particular thread so that when we later engage the half nut to clean-up the thread(13:35 ), it is properly indexed to the thread. Correct?
Thank you very much Joe. You are one smart man I love you videos.
Hello Joe, I believe I got most of this technique. Here's one where I don't think it would work at all and have no idea how to approach this. I have a mid eighties Maglite C cell. Now Maglite makes its own proprietary thread. It is a mighty fine and light one too. I do not know if the internal one is the same as the external. In these earlier Maglites the switch is held in by a threaded collar that engages this internal thread. Your mission should you choose to accept it is: How to identify such a minute thread inside a small barrel (a C size doesn't give much room for either vision or sizing tools! Don't know if the thread gets bigger on the D size but I don't think it changes??). How to 'feel' that thread which is not only very small but in aluminum. Then chase that thread which starts and ends inside the barrel. I am not even sure if it is a 60 degree thread. How to measure that fine a thread inside a blind small bore and how to make a tool to do the cutting (probably the easiest of a difficult set of problems) seems a tough one. Thanks again for your excellent videos. Take care and Happy New Year. Doug
Use some clay, press it into the internal thread to make a mirror copy of the thread pitch and angle. View the clay on your optical comparator to be able to grind your tool to match.
Joes method is good here....what I do is simply loosen the threading tool in the holder, then push the tool into the thread groove since the tip of the tool will follow the groove and align itself until it bottoms out.
Make sure backlash is taken up in the direction of travel before locking everything down.
@@drd1924 Me too. (Both tricks). If I want a more permanent impression of a thread or internal feature, I use kneadable epoxy putty (the coaxial stick form) and spray sparingly with a volatile release agent which flashes off.
@@Gottenhimfella Good trick, Yeah I like that kneadable 2 part epoxy since it dries quick too.
One of my most valuable go to tools is joe pie videos ! Great stuff thenks !
I'm 20 seconds into the video and I shut it off the way I do it is I screw in a thread to the peace to extend the internal thread to be visible external to the peace and pick it up that way really easy, use your threads peak to peak dimension measurement and you'll fall right in the thread track
Now let's see what the video says
Curious how you screw something into a thread that came in damaged? And to have a mating part is fantastic luck. I'm not usually that lucky.
Yes sir. I keep dozens of pieces of scrap 11/8 -12 and 18 tpi threaded stock, and every other odd size that may come in, around just for when I need to do that. But, the idea does have it's place. Joe's way is obviously applicable in almost all cases.
Hi Joe, I am not expert in this field but I have a question to ask. is there any way to retread the internal treads of an actuator with rough tread ? these treads are harden to bear heavy load so its not soft metal.
Joe Pie you are a genius! That is a technique to remember, also cutting out away from the chuck, good solid advice! Many Thanks Chris B.
Thanks. Glad it was helpful!
another great video Joe! Thanks.... i have learned a hell of alot watching your videos !! You are a true craftsman!
Great solution as always. Well presented. Thanks for everything you do. I've learned an awful lot from you over the years - many thanks!
I'm happy to pass it along.
Joe, we all know that you are close to being a master. A challenge for thee: Coat with red Dykem,, top with the blue Dykem, then cut till just the red is left.
Just kidding. Fine method!
I Like it.
Joe, if the thread is not concentric to the OD of the part, how do you indicate the bore of the thread before attempting this operation? If the thread was good, I suppose a tight fitting gauge pin extending from the bore might work. Thoughts? Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us common folk.
I would use a plug for the setup too.
Hi Joe, good explanation, and easy to perform. I do have a question, if you covered this point in the video and I missed it -appologies, it's my age! I think there might be potential for tool tip movement in both planes between picking up the thread and locking the bar in the toolholder, do you take up the 'slack' on the clamp screws to limit 'slop' before picking up the thread?
P.S. in the UK we 'slacken' the carrage stop lock screw!
Off camera I am pushing the bar in and out while dialing the cross slide into the thread. i can feel the range of motion getting smaller as I dial it in. when I detect the in and out motion has stopped, I tighten the tool. back it out a bit for the first pass.
Joe, this has been a godsend for me. Threading in reverse is a revelation making it so easy to work to a dead stop or should I say from a dead stop. Brilliant! I just did an internal thread only 1.5 mm deep and 0.5mm pitch!
Good to hear. You'll never go back to the old way.
Are you doing this on lathe with metric screw?
@@bpark10001
In truth it was a custom thread of 7mm dia but 50 tpi. This meant I could engage the half but using the timing dial on my imperial Myford.
Wow awesome just learned a better way thanks!
Great video, Joe! I learn something new everyday!
Thanks Mr. 3.14 for all your video tips. This is one of my favorites!! CJ
thanks for watching. Much appreciated.
Nice. Can't wait to give it a try. Thanks
Nice procedure Joe, I wrote to you last winter about a similar situation, I was into during restoration on a very old screw jack that had broken on my Grandfather when a wood wheel came off the axle on a fully loaded hay wagon being pulled horse team on the way back to the barn it was sometime in the mid-s20. My father always told the story about Papa pulling the broken jack out from under the wagon mad as hell and walk over to huge gully and toss it as far as he could. The jack was rediscovered in the early s70s when the farm was being developed into an apartment complex by an excavator operator that was good friends with my father. I guess since it was buried deeply in a clay swamp it was preserved fairly well. That's when I first heard the story about the jack, my dad was about ten years old at the time it happened. My dad hung onto that broken old jack for the rest of his life and it was passed on to me with the request to get it working again. I did, but it's only an ornamental piece now. I could have done a much better job had I saw your video first. My sister has it hanging on a wall in her family room now along with many other artifacts from our family. Thanks!
Love it.
Outstanding! !!!!! I love the unloooosen? Technology.Er terminology.
I will use that word until I die.
years ago I had a small lathe and I didn't know you could thread from the head towards the tailstock but, once I tried it and saw that it did work, then I, too, adopted that approach to threading because the conventional approach never made any sense to me; it was far too risky.
fortunately for me, I've never had any problem shunning convention to try a different approach.
Driving big rigs I learned, pretty quickly, to shun the traditional approach to breaking while going downhill.
Training says to pick a gear, before going down the hill, and then stay in that gear the entire way down. That gear might end up being too high a gear and you have to "over brake" to prevent the rig from gaining too much speed. You over brake and your brakes fade - translation, you lose your braking ability and you're now a gravity powered missile with zero alternative ways to slow or stop.
The solution is to use the left foot for only one purpose - maintain 10# of air pressure on the brakes. 10# air pressure is a magic number because it does slow the rig but it also is the air pressure at which you CANNOT fade your brakes.
So, when I'd go over a hill I'd use my left foot only to maintain 10# of air on the brakes. If 10#'s wasn't slowing the rig enough then I'd goose the fuel, pop the stick to neutral, goose the fuel again and downshift. Rinse and repeat until the combination of 10# brake pressure and the gear chosen kept the truck at a safe speed.
The conventional approach is suicidal and yet many viewed my approach as suicidal because they'd had it hammered into their heads that you NEVER change gears while going downhill.
Well, the conventional way nearly killed me, whereas my method was trouble free for nearly 17 years and I feared no hill - no matter how steep - because I knew the safest method to successfully get down ANY hill!
Convention be damned, do what you know works. :)
@@gangleweed yes, double clutching..... you cannot and should NEVER double clutch when going down a hill. Very dangerous.
One should float the gears. No double clutching and I never had a big rig with synchronous transmissions. You "could" double clutch but I never met a big rig driver that did that.
The truck you're referring to also could have had the gears "floated" rather than double clutching which is always dangerous to do.
As usual very well described. The only suggestion that I would make would be to determine the speed that you intend to run the part since on some lathes changing the speed after locating the tool can create a problem concerning location.
I can not speak to all machinery, but the possibility does exist.
Joe, have you ever done a segment on those boring bar bushings? If no, I’d live to see one. I need to make some for my lathe. Thanks for all your awesome videos!
I agree would like to see the details of the holder and bushings, another great video
Me too.
@@tonyray4203 me three
Thanks for the lesson, Joe!
Thanks Joe - your timing is perfect! I recently bought a South Bend (Skinner) chuck on ebay for my Craftsman lathe. Wouldn't you know it. That snooty South Bend chuck refuses to thread fully onto the Craftsman spindle. (Yes, I have cleaned both the threads thoroughly.) The question of who is wrong in a situation like this is interesting. I have tried measuring the spindle over thread measuring wires, but I have a hard time getting repeatable numbers. Will make another try at that tomorrow. I think that regardless of which part is wrong, I will try to increase the pitch diameter of the chuck hub rather than messing with the threads on my lathe spindle. That's probably not something a noob like me should be doing :-)
Doing the chuck may be harder, but it assures other things will still screw onto the lathe.
Joe, I made a fixture to hold the thread measuring wires and and am getting somewhat more consistent readings. I find that the lathe spindle PD is a little oversize. Nevertheless, I am going to modify the chuck hub, not the spindle. Modifying my lathe spindle is just not something I'm comfortable doing at my current skill level. Thanks again for a great video just exactly at the time I needed the information.
Great demo Joe, thanks. Tend to wonder if backlash is catered for satisfactorily.
very slick.. nice work..
Awesome as always Joe!
joe...do you rotate the chuck by hand to get the slack out of the half nut while centering the threading tool
I apply pressure to my handwheel like a brake as I thread. This takes out any slack. The carriage is basically pre-loaded when the machine stops.
Great, clear demonstration.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Do you have a video on making the tool holder for the Aloris with the inserts?
Not yet.
i was interested in Stephon's . mill threading on a engine lathe . because i have no lead screw or trading dial what your opinion .
Can you respond with a link to that video for us?
@@joepie221 In not good with Madden stuff Link ? He as a channel in you tube. Stefan Or Stephon he is German Or astrain Speaks good English , & he dos fine work , By fine I mean shall & fascinating stuff. You will enjoy he work . I was trying to avid fitting ahead screw to my old lathe & it was He that revelled how it could be done By the ues of a thread-Mill ?
you should check him out When i want to find him on RUclips I type In Treadmilling. On a engine lath. I i get him. that's my link i suppose. ! hop this help's .
I like the boring bar I do think it could work well in a 4 sided conventional toll holder so to reduce the need for shimming, I have a large 3/4 tool holder that requires me to shim toling to center hight & loads of shimming to center height. your system may eliminate that need, by the use of HSS round tool steel, or square broached hols and sleeves drilled on center. in the lathe you using it opens up possibilities to tern an OLD FASHIONED tool holding SISTEM IN TH A MODEN ONE in a very POABAL BENEFITS FOR MY LATHE. THANK YOU, LES TOMPSON ENGLAND. MAY I UES YOR IDEAR. England. pleas, the es of a changeable sleeve. set on center adds tool changing possibilities. to rival, the Quik change thank you.
Engine Lathes are easy. I was doing this 30 years ago. I just came up with a new process two days ago on a CNC lathe without a compound. 3 5/8-12 ID thread repair on a 10' long telescoping tube. I picked a position behind the Chuck to make a timing mark on the Head Stock and Mounting Ring. I used a small amount of JB Weld to cover a small spot of about the first 4 thread. After setting Z0 at the end of the tube I checked the timing marks then moved the threading bar to the center of the first full thread. Marked down Z-.175" I set program to start at Z+.100". Run first pass and stopped. Checked the marks over the JB Weld. Looked Good. Run the Program to end. Needed minor adjustment to X diameter and about 0.004" to Z. Ran 10 tubes before quitting time.
Great video, as always.
Joe, can you recommend some left hand insert threading bars that might be good for various ranges of TPI, and what insert nomenclature are good for which TPI, and what the numbers mean, e.g. 16ER, AG60, etc.,etc. I'm just getting into insert tooling and would like to minimize my "variants" of inserts.
That would be awesome!
Hi Joe
Excellent video again, I used to work in a Ballscrew factory in Coventry 🇬🇧,1980 to 2005 and nobody cut threads weather it was a ball track or threads the way you do, I now do it your way, thinking about it your way would have helped a lot!
Fantastic! That is one job that has always caused me the most grief... Thanks!
The boring\threading bar jig is outstanding...one holder and all bar sizes on center.... amazing.
Great video as usual. Good content and info and camera work. I never stop learning from you. Thanks for sharing with us. Dan
Nice video techniques, you are no amateur. Also like the way you used a sectioned piece of work to illustrate the cut. I've known of turning from, how would you say, on the back side with the spindle turning backwards, nothing like threading a blind hole, done it many times, making camera lens adapters, etc. I've always done the threading by "feeling" where the bit was, not by using the dial indicator and splitting the difference to find the center of the thread. Nice work, as usual.
Jim
You should be able to prove all the setup steps using an external thread which would be easier to see, followed by practicing to gain confidence prior to attempting to chase an internal thread. Also, when chasing from left to right, it seems you would need to take all the backlash out of the compound by moving the compound dial counterclockwise against the outside of the thread.
I already posted an external repair video.
@@joepie221 Thanks. I watched it shortly after viewing this video.
I hope I never have to use that trick. At the very beginning of this demonstration My only thought was, how's he gonna line this up. very clear demonstration Thanks Joe
Good stuff Joe. The half part was great for the visual. I've had to do this a few times... more so with od threading. I once had to pick up a 10-32 thread on the cnc to thread mill it a little larger when it shrunk with heat treating. Basically used the same principle as you have described here.
Fabulous video. Beautifully shot with great camera angles. Thank you very much !
Great Technique as well as video Joe Thanks heaps for this along with all your other tutorials. This is not something I have encountered as yet however I am aware now of a sound and accurate process to do this.
Many thanks Joe from John, Australia.
If the diameter is big enough to get fingers inside, I’m thinking of using a tab with threads on it and a ground flat positioned directly in line with the thread for locating the tool from it.
Nice demo. Thanks joe.
Thanks for sharing the info. I have a job 12.75 I.D. threading . T.P.I. ? I will find out more when customer brings the job in.
.
Thanks Joe beats remaking the parts. May I ask details on the insert. Here is SouthAfrica the selection is very limited