A great runner! Really dialed it in. I'm suprised how well the YD100 pulls such a small sprocket. I never tried a 28t on mine. I have the Phantom 85 on a old 700c frame now, the Screamin demon is still in pieces. Pulls great with a 44t but lacks top end speed.
When my phantom was still put together and stock I felt it was more mid/high rpm power oriented, but that might’ve been in part due to it being so lean I had to build up rpm before going full throttle. Which is the smallest sprocket you’ve ran on the phantom? I ordered a 36 with mine
@@motoredbikemadness2061 we didn't have the option of ordering different sprockets with the engine kits. I got a 44t and then decided I wanted more speed so I put the Phantom on my Screamin Demon frame with a 36t sprocket. It got to 65 kmh once but no more. Expected around 70 but I guess I'm too heavy. I'm 110 kg.
@@Matthew-wj8cm ah true, I'm considering running a smaller sprocket than the 36 I was using, but honestly don't know if I can go that much smaller without it struggling at low rpms. Hoping it was only the poorly tuned stock carb that made it run how it did, ill be adding something tunable
@@niteshades_promise yup it’s not too bad actually! Though I don’t ever ride this one for very long to say for sure- the worse issue for comfort is the forward riding position, like a sport bike sort of, in that it makes me hold my upper body upright with my arms- with my butt so far back
My piston port YD pops and jerks the bike at anything other than full throttle, whatever you did with the reed and your magic porting really fixed lower range power it pulls that small gear HARD! Running same carb but 75 main jet(high altitude)
Thanks man! You put on a phbg too? With popping/sudden jerking it’s usually an air leak in the intake or crankcase- and if you changed the carb I definitely think that’s what it is. The jerking is from backfiring into the crankcase and you can sometimes even see the flames and/or fuel vapor coming out the carb. What makes things even worse is this backfiring often forces the crankshaft seals to slide out, causing more air leaks. Definitely check that.
Making the engine run more rich will cover up the problem and leaner make it worse- do you notice it get worse when it’s running out of gas? If things are ideal it should be able to run crazy lean (like if the carb is clogged and it hardly runs still) and not intake/crankcase backfire
And if the leak is in the intake- it will suck more air and act worse the more the throttle is closed (more vacuum to draw it in). If the leak is there, even if severe the symptoms usually go away once the throttle is open fully. On the other hand, if the leak is in the crankcase (or anything past the reed petals, of piston skirt if non-reed) the symptoms will be there regardless of throttle position (assuming it’s not significantly rich/lean at one point)
@@motoredbikemadness2061 Yes i think you hit the nail right on the head. While it was piston ported i had a few backfires and it definitely blew out the case seals. Since then i went to an LD top end and replaced both seals installing them with grease on the crankshaft and a bit of sealant around the perimeter where the rubber contacts the case. It's never run better! putting the engine on a better frame now because it makes enough power to fold the cranbrook in half lol. Take care brother!
I ported the transfers with a 90 degree tool (kept the port opening the same but smoothed out the port roof and maybe widened a bit). The exhaust I just did a normal port job, nothing crazy still a mostly round port. If I remember right it’s actually running two base gaskets because that’s how it came when I bought it
@@Jackp53 windowed piston myself with a drill + dremel, and the reed setup is an off-the -shelf G2 type reed that I cut+welded on a larger intake tube for this carb. Carb is just a Chinese copy of Dellorto 19 or 21mm (can’t remember)
I'd go with an LD100, i believe it's about the same as a YD100, except YD is 1 piece cylinder LD is 2 piece cylinder. I prefer 2 piece since it's easier to port and you can upgrade heads.@@Ragz10
@@trentbikes true still haven't made my mind up tbh lmfao yes I know a whole year passed. I do have a yd with a complete dead spark plug whole I'm thinking of chop topping
@@trentbikes the LD also has an enormous exhaust port from factory- which is by default a plus because there’s no guarantee you can port the other cylinders out the same size without going right through the metal. I do think it’s a bit harmful to scavenging and low/midrange power being that big for a stock motor, with still regular transfers and everything else plus the same stock muffler. I do still kinda second guess my recommendation though.. one thing I’ll say for the YD side, is that when porting you don’t want to at all angle the transfer roofs upwards. Keeping original, or 90 degree (or equal to angle of piston dome) roof angles is best. So either way, porting is a struggle, but at least when forced to port from the bottom with a YD, nobody can be tempted to grind at the transfers from the detachable head side
@@cesarpagan4640 not sure if I edited the details in to this vid- but I have one or two others posted on this bike where I added text at the beginning listing the mods. It’s just a carefully ported cylinder (way more conservative than my other fast bikes actually- I did the transfers carefully with an air powered 90 degree rotary tool (like a bigger dentist drill), making the transfer roofs a clean 90 degrees, or more or less equal to the piston dome angle like they should be ideally (removed the typical big casting ripple up there). The exhaust could have been ported much more- it wasn’t even that wide- but apparently the work I did tidying up and enlarging the transfers worked wonders compared to what I’m used to with porting (maxing out the transfers, exhaust, and everything else simultaneously when it’s a small cc build like this). The small exhaust might actually (well for sure theoretically, to some degree) be a big part of how it didn’t lose much/any low end torque afterwards. Also note that the exhaust still was raised and set to the right degree/duration- I’m just saying I didn’t enlarge it much in width
@@cesarpagan4640 then of course the piston was windowed to go along with the reed- and the carburetor side of the reed valve flange was cut/welded on a larger tube. No ignition changes/work- expansion chamber just tidied up to match the port entrance/exhaust flange. And stinger shortened where the muffler attached. 28t rear sprocket (that’s why I’m so surprised it still accel’s so well!), dellorto (clone) PHBG 21mm carb, .
I’ve got vids on here of multiple different bikes hitting 57, 59, 60mph- 53 isn’t crazy for any modified YD like this that has the right sized carb, ported with a right angle “dentist drill” tool, reed valve conversion, and a pretty decent expansion chamber
Whole bike cost 750-1000usd, but engine was easily less than half of that. Which shows how much hp benefit can come from cost free manual work like porting if you know what you’re doing. If I tried to spend more $ but not spend any effort manually porting, need any port timing knowledge, have to measure with a degree repeatedly while porting until it’s right, windowing piston, and welding a larger intake tube on the reed valve, then most of that money would be wasted. Unless you go the Minarelli route which gets you a cylinder/motor thats already ported well
Nice rip on the YD100 and rocking the gold handlebar too 👍🏾
Thx I got the handlebar cheap on AliExpress, but it’s very thin aluminum so I hope it doesn’t crack lol
@@motoredbikemadness2061cool! I have a Yd100 with a gold handlebar 👍🏾Lol but it's an old steel BMX style bar.
Man that is a beautiful bike. Good job. Nice build.
appreciate it! Still gonna port it a little bit more
A great runner! Really dialed it in. I'm suprised how well the YD100 pulls such a small sprocket. I never tried a 28t on mine. I have the Phantom 85 on a old 700c frame now, the Screamin demon is still in pieces. Pulls great with a 44t but lacks top end speed.
When my phantom was still put together and stock I felt it was more mid/high rpm power oriented, but that might’ve been in part due to it being so lean I had to build up rpm before going full throttle. Which is the smallest sprocket you’ve ran on the phantom? I ordered a 36 with mine
@@motoredbikemadness2061 we didn't have the option of ordering different sprockets with the engine kits. I got a 44t and then decided I wanted more speed so I put the Phantom on my Screamin Demon frame with a 36t sprocket. It got to 65 kmh once but no more. Expected around 70 but I guess I'm too heavy. I'm 110 kg.
@@Matthew-wj8cm ah true, I'm considering running a smaller sprocket than the 36 I was using, but honestly don't know if I can go that much smaller without it struggling at low rpms. Hoping it was only the poorly tuned stock carb that made it run how it did, ill be adding something tunable
Sounds and looks awesome love the banana seat
Beautiful
Bruh you are insane. Love this setup
Ripn it up, Thanks for the RUN,ggz-👽👍
Very cool!
That seat comfortable? I kinda want one but love my rear rack. Always have a heavy bookbag. Could use a sissy bar backpack...🤔 Awesome bike!🍻
@@niteshades_promise yup it’s not too bad actually! Though I don’t ever ride this one for very long to say for sure- the worse issue for comfort is the forward riding position, like a sport bike sort of, in that it makes me hold my upper body upright with my arms- with my butt so far back
My piston port YD pops and jerks the bike at anything other than full throttle, whatever you did with the reed and your magic porting really fixed lower range power it pulls that small gear HARD! Running same carb but 75 main jet(high altitude)
Thanks man! You put on a phbg too? With popping/sudden jerking it’s usually an air leak in the intake or crankcase- and if you changed the carb I definitely think that’s what it is. The jerking is from backfiring into the crankcase and you can sometimes even see the flames and/or fuel vapor coming out the carb. What makes things even worse is this backfiring often forces the crankshaft seals to slide out, causing more air leaks. Definitely check that.
Making the engine run more rich will cover up the problem and leaner make it worse- do you notice it get worse when it’s running out of gas? If things are ideal it should be able to run crazy lean (like if the carb is clogged and it hardly runs still) and not intake/crankcase backfire
And if the leak is in the intake- it will suck more air and act worse the more the throttle is closed (more vacuum to draw it in). If the leak is there, even if severe the symptoms usually go away once the throttle is open fully. On the other hand, if the leak is in the crankcase (or anything past the reed petals, of piston skirt if non-reed) the symptoms will be there regardless of throttle position (assuming it’s not significantly rich/lean at one point)
@@motoredbikemadness2061 Yes i think you hit the nail right on the head. While it was piston ported i had a few backfires and it definitely blew out the case seals. Since then i went to an LD top end and replaced both seals installing them with grease on the crankshaft and a bit of sealant around the perimeter where the rubber contacts the case. It's never run better! putting the engine on a better frame now because it makes enough power to fold the cranbrook in half lol. Take care brother!
Nice work, Brother!
@@Paul_Gale thx man!
What did you do t the jug? Did you just remove base gaskets to get some squish out of it?
I ported the transfers with a 90 degree tool (kept the port opening the same but smoothed out the port roof and maybe widened a bit). The exhaust I just did a normal port job, nothing crazy still a mostly round port. If I remember right it’s actually running two base gaskets because that’s how it came when I bought it
I want to know more about the reed valve and carb
@@Jackp53 windowed piston myself with a drill + dremel, and the reed setup is an off-the -shelf G2 type reed that I cut+welded on a larger intake tube for this carb. Carb is just a Chinese copy of Dellorto 19 or 21mm (can’t remember)
@@Jackp53 I didn’t even need to change the main or pilot Jets- the carb seemed pretty dialed in from the get go
Mega hit.From Poland.
Dang we’re everywhere! I’m in Canada
yd rips💨
Sweeet I was thinking of between a ld100 or yd 100 for second build in future I think yd
Yup I think right now YD is better since it’s been around for awhile and nobody’s really had any complaints with them
@@motoredbikemadness2061 nicee
I'd go with an LD100, i believe it's about the same as a YD100, except YD is 1 piece cylinder LD is 2 piece cylinder. I prefer 2 piece since it's easier to port and you can upgrade heads.@@Ragz10
@@trentbikes true still haven't made my mind up tbh lmfao yes I know a whole year passed. I do have a yd with a complete dead spark plug whole I'm thinking of chop topping
@@trentbikes the LD also has an enormous exhaust port from factory- which is by default a plus because there’s no guarantee you can port the other cylinders out the same size without going right through the metal. I do think it’s a bit harmful to scavenging and low/midrange power being that big for a stock motor, with still regular transfers and everything else plus the same stock muffler. I do still kinda second guess my recommendation though.. one thing I’ll say for the YD side, is that when porting you don’t want to at all angle the transfer roofs upwards. Keeping original, or 90 degree (or equal to angle of piston dome) roof angles is best. So either way, porting is a struggle, but at least when forced to port from the bottom with a YD, nobody can be tempted to grind at the transfers from the detachable head side
You don’t mind sharing with the community there’s a lot of people here wanting to know what kind of set up you’re running
@@cesarpagan4640 not sure if I edited the details in to this vid- but I have one or two others posted on this bike where I added text at the beginning listing the mods. It’s just a carefully ported cylinder (way more conservative than my other fast bikes actually- I did the transfers carefully with an air powered 90 degree rotary tool (like a bigger dentist drill), making the transfer roofs a clean 90 degrees, or more or less equal to the piston dome angle like they should be ideally (removed the typical big casting ripple up there). The exhaust could have been ported much more- it wasn’t even that wide- but apparently the work I did tidying up and enlarging the transfers worked wonders compared to what I’m used to with porting (maxing out the transfers, exhaust, and everything else simultaneously when it’s a small cc build like this). The small exhaust might actually (well for sure theoretically, to some degree) be a big part of how it didn’t lose much/any low end torque afterwards. Also note that the exhaust still was raised and set to the right degree/duration- I’m just saying I didn’t enlarge it much in width
@@cesarpagan4640 then of course the piston was windowed to go along with the reed- and the carburetor side of the reed valve flange was cut/welded on a larger tube. No ignition changes/work- expansion chamber just tidied up to match the port entrance/exhaust flange. And stinger shortened where the muffler attached.
28t rear sprocket (that’s why I’m so surprised it still accel’s so well!), dellorto (clone) PHBG 21mm carb, .
@@cesarpagan4640 doesn’t seem
like much work in hindsight, the motor really seemed to appreciate something I did here lol
Just rode a 30 mph bike 22 mi don't know why you would want to go that fast
Because it's awesome
cuz going fast is fun lmao. I went 60mph a lot and it was really fun. I want to go faster. So, time to get a piaggio one day.
One bad as bike ,,,
Those roads suck
@@dustinh4175 wanted some area of street that was flat/smooth for this one, these tires and wheels here are very weak+bumpy
@@dustinh4175 I should have rode it somewhere more interesting though
😂 that engine doesn't go 53 stop the cap
I’ve got vids on here of multiple different bikes hitting 57, 59, 60mph-
53 isn’t crazy for any modified YD like this that has the right sized carb, ported with a right angle “dentist drill” tool, reed valve conversion, and a pretty decent expansion chamber
Whole bike cost 750-1000usd, but engine was easily less than half of that. Which shows how much hp benefit can come from cost free manual work like porting if you know what you’re doing. If I tried to spend more $ but not spend any effort manually porting, need any port timing knowledge, have to measure with a degree repeatedly while porting until it’s right, windowing piston, and welding a larger intake tube on the reed valve, then most of that money would be wasted. Unless you go the Minarelli route which gets you a cylinder/motor thats already ported well
How strong are the mag rims?
Good question