Making D-23 Developer With Teaspoons
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- We don't need fancy chemical scales to make one of the best film developers out there, we just need measuring teaspoons. In this video I show you how to make D-23 this way and give you plenty of darkroom chemistry tips on the way.
Scales equivalent:
Metol 7.5g
Sodium sulphite 100g
Please like and subscribe to this channel
John Finch
pictorialplanet.com
John - I'm a film photographer on a budget from Calcutta. Cannot express how much I appreciate this channel. I will save up and buy your book soon. Keep making these and helping us out. Cheers!
Cheers!!
Starting with a pinch of Sodium Sulphite to prevent oxidation is an excellent tip - one that not many people know about. Well done.
Thanks for your comment! Very much appreciated my friend!
I love D23. Nice video!
made my first ever developer (D-23) today thanks to you. tried it on regular and orth 4x5, love it, normally use rodinal. your channel "popped up" 2 weeks ago and have binged heavily
This is great to hear! Thanks for your comment Bill.
I mixed half a liter of D-23 this past weekend -- and then added 2 g of borax and wound up with D-76H (if I'd halved the metol, I'd have had Borax Accelerated D-23, at least according to some workers). To this mixture I added one tablet of Kodak Anti Fog No. 1 (= 0.3 mg benzotriazole, and never mind it was made in 1966) and used it to develop a roll of the old ortho Verichrome (introduced 1931, discontinued appr. 1955) that came to me in an Autographic Vest Pocket Kodak.
Standard development for Verichrome was 17 minutes at 20 C in D-76 stock; I developed at 16 C (I wanted to go colder, but my darkroom thermometer won't read any lower than 15 C), inspected under red safelight at 12 minutes, then again at 18 minutes, and stopped development at 20 minutes. Of the eight 4x6.5 frames on a roll of 127, I got seven with images (the eighth had been left in the frame gate when the camera was put away, and showed nothing but a halo from either the red window or someone removing the plate on the camera back that allows cleaning the lens), and not as much fog as you might expect for film that's been left in a camera for *at least* sixty-seven years, possibly as long as 90 years.
And now I have images of someone's children, all of whom are older than either of us.
Good job!
Hi John, I have just developed my first rolls of FP4+ 66-film with D-23 - it are quite contrasty landscape pictures - They came out really marvelous - and I haven't yet matched the film on ISO and development time - it will be my next step to do - but I wanted to let you know that this developer is really marvelous - as I see the negatives no dodging and burning needs to be done to get a perfect print - the negatives are just beautiful - Many thanks for this video and I am looking forward to any other future video on D-23!!!!
Excellent news, Dirk!
Thank You
Cheers again, NW
My old "dictionary of photography" suggests that B25 is an improvement over B23 and is only a minor tweak to the formula. Any comments?
I love fp4 in perceptol and may try B23 / B25 but intended to give 510 a try first.
Keep up the good work.
I love FP4 in Perceptol too! After reading Barry Thornton's book Elements I started using that combination for many years. I make Perceptol by adding 30g pure salt (must be no iodine additive in salt) to 1 ltr D-23.I don't know if it's the true formula for Perceptol but it's commonly touted as a similar developer. 510-Pyro will give you similar results but with the added advantages of the stain and amazing keeping quality. It also tans the gelatine making the negatives more robust. There's a downside of course and that's toxicity.
@@PictorialPlanet Hi John, what does the added 30gr pure salt do to D-23? How does it improve the formula?
I don't know the chemical reason for this but it makes the developer more fine grained but increases development time.
@@PictorialPlanet I know that salt is used in caffenol as an inhibitor ....
@@PictorialPlanet You do realize that the D-23 with the 30mg of non-iodized salt is the formula for the ZOriginal Kodak Microdol Developer before Kodak changed its formula to Microdol-X. You now have the Original Kodak Microdol Developer.
Is sodium sulphite and sodium metabisulphite the same thing? I have a large amount of the latter for other uses. If they are the same then the sodium sulphite releases sulphur dioxide gas and is quite stinky... EDIT no, the sodium bisulfite has only one sulfur atom and three oxygen atoms, and the bisulfite anion is monovalent whereas, the sodium metabisulfite has two sulfur atoms, five oxygen atoms! They can't be exchanged but i'll leave this comment might save someone making an error.
Really enjoying the series on developers and learning lots. Do you mind sharing the scale measurements? Thank you
Thanks for you comment, Greg! I've added the scales equivalent for you in the video description.
Is there a significant difference between D23 and Rodinal? Both are some spices of p-aminophenol.
D23 is significantly different being made with just metol and sodium sulphite. D23 is a fine grained solvent developer and more like D76 (but with easier highlight control).
Great information. Is Perceptol a fancy D23 formula?
Basically, yes.
If I know I shall be using D23 at 1+1 can I just mixup 3.75g of Metol and 50g of Sulfite and water to make up 1LTR and then use it straight out of the bottle without any further dilution
It would work fine but I don't know how long it lasts at half strength. If I was going to be using it quite quickly then that wouldn't matter much but since I know full strength D23 lasts well over 6 months I'd prefer to go that way (make full strength) and dilute for use.
@@PictorialPlanet Thank You.
Sir,
Regularly watching your channel have inspired me to take up b&w photography. I have started using Fomopan 100 classic and freshly made D23 developer.
Could you please suggest the proper development time for Fomopan 100 and D23 stock solution at 20 degree C ?
Thankyou.
Hi Sreeram and thanks for your comment. Start with times for D76 and fine tune from there.
Can D23 or Pyro 510 be used to develop paper enlargements ? Thanks for all the great info. I just found your channel and am enjoying it all ready !
Thanks for your question Paul. It would seem that one should be able to develop paper with film developer and I tried various ideas many years ago but the results were very poor indeed. Paper print needs are too different from film and even the film/paper universal developers were a compromise for both giving grainy short tonal negatives and rather unsatisfactory prints. I will demonstrate making high performing paper developers in later videos. Glad you are enjoying the channel!
@@PictorialPlanet thank you for your reply. I’ll be looking forward to those future videos.
Should you discard the chemical ones used or do you reuse it?
Yes, discard if diluting. If using full strength you can develop at least 4 films per litre. Just add 10% to your development time after the second film.
Hello John. I have just discovered this wonderful channel - simply brilliant. I have a question about D23 dev times. I shoot mainly FP4+ and Fomapan 100. I can only find dev times for 1+1 or 1+3. Any suggestions for times using 1+2 and 1+4. Thank you
Hi Dennis. I'm sorry but I don't have any times for those dilutions; I mainly use D23 replenished. The only thing I can say about them is D-76 times will be similar I think, f you can find them.
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you for the prompt reply John. I just developed some FP4 in D23 @1+1 = 8mins. Nicer prints compared to my previous developer. I am surprised at the small grain size. I will probably stick with this ratio and time.
This channel is the most straightforward in the perseverance to behold a classic craft. Very good! Brilliant man.
As a former clinical-chemistry student I do prefer using scales though. But it doesn't make my pictures any better than the teaspoon-method.
Awesome!
@@PictorialPlanet Will do 'word of mouth' for you here in the Netherlands, Amsterdam. Keep them coming...
Hi, i've just mixed up this developer with your spoon method, thanks for the very detailed explanation! :)
I'm planning on using it undiluted, with the replenishment you explain on your website, any ideas on calculating te development times etc? I'm new to the more 'active' development methods, as i've been using rodinal stand development as my go to untill now. :)
Hi Guido! I'm pleased you'll be doing that! Replenished D23 is gorgeous. For development time start with D76 times for stock. Most films will give you their timing for D76 stock and of course you'll be using the D23 as stock too. As you get used to the developer with your film adjust your dev time to taste by going up or down in 10% increments.
@@PictorialPlanetThanks! Any ideas on how to increase dev time after x number of rolls developed?
With replenishment, once you find your personal development time, you'll not need to. Just replenish as per my website and you'll be fine :)
@@PictorialPlanet Ah right, i'll be doing that then. I've put a test roll of delta 400 through it and scanned them and they look gorgeous. This is some good stuff. :)
Is there anything I can add to the spent (used) D-23 developer before putting it down the drain to make it more environmentally friendly ? Thanks for this great video...I purchased the chemicals and ready to use it in a few days.
Hi Don, I don't know if anything.
Hi John,
how would you compare Ilford DDX to D23 in regards to accutance and tonality?
many thanks and looking forward to your revised book!
Both can provide very similar acutance and tonality. Ilford DDX is an excellent modern developer. I think of it as Ilford's XTOL equivalent. It's been formulated for the latest tabular films but develops all films to very high quality. It's one of Ilford's top formulas after all. D-23 however, is quite different. Formulated in the 1940's D-23 still holds its own. It develops all films, old and new, with aplomb, is totally controllable in contrast and compensation and lives up to its name as a better D-76. D-23's simplicity is helpful to the film developer and its versatility, including replenishment, very useful indeed. It naturally tames the highlights of contrasty films and minimises grain in faster films. As stock it's a gradual working and gentle fine grain developer. Diluted it becomes an acutance developer with increased sharpness and contrast. DDX is easy to use from the bottle, D-23 is easy to make. Both are very capable but neither are a magic bullet. Ultimately, both will give you exhibition quality prints if you learn them. I intend to demonstrate a modern ascorbic developer, more akin to DDX, in a future video. I think you might enjoy that one.
@@PictorialPlanet many thanks for your insight - looking forward to your coming videos!
can d-23 also be prepared as a one shot? for example 300ml for 1 135 cassette? what should be minimum amount of raw material? For example, if you make 150ml and then dilute 1+1 would it still work?
Yes, no problem at all. With such a simple developer it's very easy and you'll get perfect results. Just divide the amounts appropriately using a scale.
@@PictorialPlanet even if you get very small amounts of raw material? wouldn't there be a minimum quantity limit/limit? for example like Rodinal minimasl 5ml? because why would you make 1 liter? provided you want to develop a lot of film...
@nicknick099 The 1 Ltr lasts 6 months so you use it slowly over that time period. It's very common to make a large amount and use it in parts as you use films.
@@PictorialPlanet thanks. I thought I understood that the stock created would quickly go bad. clearly, thank you.
tap water or distilled?
I use tap but it's Scottish water. You might need distilled if yours isn't good.
Hi John, thanks for the video! Does distilled water make a difference also would using a magnetic stirrer be ok? Thank you!!
Hi! Distilled water is always a good idea so go for it. I don't need it here where I live but if in any doubt about your water it's a good thing to use. Magnetic stirrers are fine but this developer dissolves real easy.
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you!! I'm going to mix some up right now!!
if I were making divided D-23 what would the teaspoon conversion be for Sodium Metaborate ??
If you are making divided D-23 then I think you should be making Barry Thornton's 2-bath instead! It's better by far. Check out my video "Want Ansel Adams in your developing tank?" In the video notes I've given the teaspoon measurements.
A really interesting video. What about Sodium Metaborate ? There're D-23 recipies on the internet that consist of 3 ingredients and D-23 consists of two solutions: A and B. Which it better ? Are there any differencies ?
Thanks Jaroslaw! Yes there are and I'll actually be talking about them on Tuesday! Stay tuned my friend!
@@PictorialPlanet I'm looking forward to your video. Thanks.
Hi Mr Finch, my D-23 has became dark grey, but still developing well. I replanish it every time for 20 rolls. Is it normal?
Hi Rolando! Sounds perfect. I also use replenishment (using DK-25R as replenisher) with D-23 and run about 30 rolls through it. It gets pretty murky! After 30 films I discard 3/4 of it and top it back up to 1 litre with fresh D-23. Here’s a link to my website where I describe my procedure. www.pictorialplanet.com/advanced_photography/D23.html
@@PictorialPlanet thank you very much for your answer. I know well your webside, it was there I learned about the D-23 an the replanisher you discrebed there. Cheers
Ha Ha ! MY 'PINCH' is much bigger
Ha!
I am giving D23 a go after watching your video.
However, even after prolonged mixing, my final solution looks more "milky" and slightly less transparent that what you have got here. I cannot see anything that is still floating around, but it's not transparent either.
I have weighted my ingredients with a small precision scale that I have bought just for this. Water was at 50 degrees. Any idea what could it be? Could it be a problem?
Edit: forgot to mention I only used half the ingredients to get 500ml of stock solution.
Thanks for your question. There's a couple of things it might be. The first is the order they're dissolved in. Metol won't dissolve in an alkaline environment so if you dissolve the sulphite first then the metol won't go in. But, assuming that you only added a pinch of sulphite before dissolving the metol and then the rest of the sulphite it could be a chemical you have is contaminated either by age or from new. Could any of these be the issue?
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you for your quick reply. I followed your instructions to add a small amount of sulphite before the metol. The solution was mostly clear before adding the rest of the sulphite. The metol I have just bought it new from an online shop here in the UK, as I had never used it. It's white in colour. I have a small jar of sodium sulphite from a couple of years that I use as a "poor men's" hypo clearing when I washing fiber based prints.
Do you think I should give it a go anyway? I have to shoot a test roll with a new camera that I have just bought so I am not risking anything precious for now :)
I would give it a go. I'd probably leave it 24 hours first so any stuff can settle. Might work a treat. I buy my sulphite from eBay which is cost effective for me. Your metol sounds good, mine's going a little brown but still works well. Please let us know how you get on. I'd love to know.
@@PictorialPlanet After about 12 hours it's now clear, but there is a cloudy residue at the bottom. I guess if I pour carefully it should not come out, but I wonder if the solution is good?
It sounds like it might be ok :)