Rolex Explorer 1655 - The Most Fascinating Rolex Ever Made
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- A brief discussion surrounding the legendary Rolex Explorer II 1655, looking at its History, Design for Purpose and Legacy. A modern redesign is included at the end of the video.
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I can personally attest to the usefulness of the GMT function. I spent nine months working as a field training officer for the Australian Antarctic Division, and the long dark Antarctic winter actually necessitated the use of this complication. I must admit that I am referring to the use of the Steinhart Ocean Vintage GMT 39, as opposed to the original 1655. Some of the design changes to this watch, such as the elimination of the cyclops, actually adds to its’ legibility over the original in my opinion. Thank you again for your fantastic work!
I have that homage too, it’s my travel and beater watch. Under the radar and tough. Love it!
You have the best watch channel on RUclips, and I especially enjoy your design interpretations/concepts.
I've never really appreciated the Explorer II until your video. Thank you.
Your analysis really demonstrates how the 1655's design was more coherent than the contemporary version, I especially notice how much better the original typeface and hands integrated with the whole vs. the new ones where they compete for attention.
What an awesome video on a very iconic but overlooked Rolex. As a brand new owner of a 216570 Explorer 2 Polar, I do beg to differ with you on the modern interpretation. While not closely following the original, I find the the modern version infinitely easier to read especially with the Polar's black outlined hands and indices on the stark white dial. Regardless, cheers and thanks for another great video.
Rolex should hire you as a design advisor. Your version makes more sense in many ways and looks great.
For me, the best-looking Rolex ever made.
Thanks for discussing the design in depth. No one else does it as meticulously as you!
Your final iteration is perfection, you nailed it!
My absolute favorite Rolex! As you say, a piece of contemporary art with the 1655 standing above the rest. Great video. Thank you
You are brilliant in your passion and knowledge..... thank you
You are right. That the best instrumental watch that Rolex did.
Rolex need to see this and update the next reference to your design, no doubt.
I was sent here on Teddy B's recommendation. I own a 16570 polar. I love the design that you have created for that watch. That would make this thing stand out and separate itself from the regular GMT design/appearance that has been around for so long. Great video!
In the 1970's there was a glossy expensive science magazine called 'OMNI'. From memory, there was a full page Rolex advert. It had a photo of Steve Mqueen, sipping coffee and smoking. On his wrist was his Rolex Submariner 5513. The advert band at the bottom of the photo - was advertising the Rolex 1655 Explorer.
Love or hate Rolex, there is always one model that does appeal to everyone! And your take on this was very refreshing, especially keeping in mind that some are tools with a use in mind and not just jewellery! Great presentation, with well balanced insight on the pros and cons!
Outstanding video, as always - and a proper grail piece for me too! Must try and find the second part of your video....
I agree with all your comments, and equally admire the 1655. It’s a model that I would love to add to my Rolex Watch collection. It will be interesting to see if Rolex introduce a similar model when replacing the current Explorer 11. In April 2021 !
Growing up reading National Geographic magazines, I remember seeing the volcanologist advertisement of the E2. The image of bright orange lava spewing from the blackened ash of the volcano was reflected in the big orange hand on the watch floating above an ash black dial. It was poetry in motion. I was fascinated to read from the Rolex ads that there were crazy scientists willing to confront the dangers of the molten lava, just a few metres away from death. It was exciting, dangerous, adventurous and exotic to me as a child. Aside the watch looking like it was designed for the job it looked as cool as Steve McQueen. And that's my reasoning why it was coined the name of the actor who never wore it. I remember aspiring to own an E2 and a Two tone Datejust, from seeing the CEO of Rolls Royce feature in another ad. I wanted to be a captain of industry in my day job and a volcanologist on the weekend!
The E2 is the most under rated Rolex sports watch. Agree the 1st gen E2 was an icon. However the modern E2s as a whole are under appreciated by collectors and hence the best value for money compared to the Sub & GMT. For the everyday person I believe the E2 is the most practical and functional out of the Rolex sports. Its form follows function and its not over engineered. Its purposeful design make it useful as a beater and the relatively reasonable price point doesn't inhibit not wearing it as a tool watch for which it was designed. Unfortunately the GMT, Sub and other sports models are so collectible and expensive now, collectors don't wear them for their intended tool watch purpose. The E2 is also more compatible with the lifestyle of the average person. It has a GMT function for traveling and water resistant enough to swim or recreational dive with. That's what 99% of the population who buy sports watches require. The Sub at 300m waterproof and the GMT Master with its 3rd timezone functionality are designed for professional divers and pilots. They are over engineered, unecessary functions for the average person. And I say person rather than man, because the E2 was the first men's sports Rolex or 40mm sports watch ever to feature in an advertisement being worn by a woman. Although Pussy Galore from Goldfinger wore a GMT decades before the E2 came into existence but that wasn't endorsed by Rolex themselves. The Explorer line is also one of the last true sports models only to be manufactured in steel. No precious metals. That can not be said for the Sub, GMT, Sky Dweller, Yachtmaster or since Baselworld 2019, the Sea Dweller.
Spot on right here in the case of especially this particular iteration of the explorer... As a kid, it was my absolute favourite especially as I loved aircraft cockpits! It conveys that functional urgency with
first rate legibility! The current ones, I am not a fan, they've lost their true explorer 2 DNA design language, this, in turn has caused me to faithfully redesign the explorer II which I started initially in 2019....ill seek the opportunity in watches and wonders 2024 to unveil it for the first time... Field tests for the aesthetics alone, which is all that is missing in the Rolex range indicate my redesign is an absolute winner and huge potential success for that model! Thank you for highlighting this topic, no one else really has!
Great analysis of the Explorer II. I think that you are correct in saying that the current watch would benefit from straight hands without the Mercedes tip on the hour hand.
I think Rolex are too conservative a company to stray from their design. However, I could see Tudor coming out with a straight handed version of something similar.
Great video again my friend. 👍
What a cool video! I love the vintage explorer II as well. I loved the negative polar dial you created. I think that would be a truly unique interesting take on the explorer II.
OMG! Your iteration looks fabulous. I wish!
The modern version are pretty Fvcking awesome too. No doubt.
Steinhart thank you for this watch. ❤
Great video, now I want a watch with your dial design! Great work. Thanks
Man, your redesign is perfect. Rolex should put you on the payrole. I would put myself on the list. Maybe you can get these designs to someone like Steinhart or Ginault? I would buy one even without the Rolex badge. Its a great layout.
Thank you- finally someone explained how this watch has anything to do with cave exploration. Now the GMT hand and fixed bezel make sense. Other youtubers briefly mention how this was designed for cave exploration and then move on. Leaving people like me who assumed the gmt complication was great for cross-time zone travel and little else and wondered aloud why someone would have a gmt with a fixed bezel eliminating their ability to track a third time zone. But you explained it well and now the watch makes sense. It always looked amazing, but now it makes sense. And I also don’t care for the Mercedes hands they’re using now. They look cartoonish to me and make little sense outside of a dive watch.
I bought my 1655 back in 1984 and would never ever sell it or trade for any other watch. Period.
Brilliant Video...…..just Brilliant.
I'm not completely sold on the new/proposed dial. I wonder if small dots, similar to the original, might not look better. Good vid, however. Keep at it!
Great stuff mate, I’m glad you didn’t refer to it as the Steve McQueen explorer ll,
he never wore one! It’s the main bs reason they trade at such an inflated price! Otherwise I’d probably have one, after all it is a unique iconic Rolex.
Re: my last about Omni - the tag line for the advert was something like "What's good enough for Steve!!"
I agree with everything you say in this video; it is the only Rolex watch (besides the Explorer 1) that truly gets my heart racing! I hate the newer versions with the Mercedes hands and circles, but I do like the orange Explorer II logo; that looks very nice. I like your rendition as well, except I would prefer the Mk1 straight seconds hand, but that is just nit picking. I agree with you when you state that if Rolex redesigned the Explorer II to look more like the original, it would sell like hot cakes; I know I would buy one in a heart beat! Well done!
Excellent educational video .... I enjoyed it so much ... looking forward to exploring more videos from your channel ...
Great video on the Rolex explorer 2.
Just a small question, Have you done any videos on the different designs of the GMT functionality? ie rolex gmt, Sinn UTC, or the 24 hour face.
Explorers and Cellinis are the Rolex I like the most! Just I wish I could afford one hahaha!
ID GUY finally got a on of by grail piece, my Birthday Watch after years of searching for the 1973 Rolex Steve McQueen Explorer in pristine condition except the patina & unpolished scratches with box. papers & serving documents. Probably paid a premium on it, but had to pull the trigger as this opportunity doesn't come around very often, its the 1655 & very unique in design, I understand this particular model had a very short production run as well. I love the indices on this version of the Explorer, I hope that Rolex bring a similar designed Rolex Explorer back one day.
As always a great designer look at the Explorer 2... funny you mentioned the reverse indices on a white lumed dial... have you ever thought about a lumed reverse day/date wheel? I’ve always thought this would be a cool feature to a dive watch. It also would not disrupt the three o’clock indice while in a dark location.
Thanks for all of your hard work!
Thank you, that was an outstanding observation of a truly intriguing watch. 👍🏼
Great video again! Cheers! Always excited to see your videos! Your expertise shines through in each mini-documentary you make!Recommendation: h moser...any of the vantablack lines. Or tornek-rayville blancpain
Agreed this has to be one of my (if not) favourite Rolex references.
Excellent analysis! You nailed it totally!
great video. you read my mind
Nice video - cool idea and I really like the Steve McQueen explorers
I like your suggested rendition
Excellent review. I have a completely new appreciation for this watch. Thank you.
Thank you for this great video, this said owning the Polar 216570 as my first Rolex
I like your designs , wish you made the polar dial with black rimmed markers
Yeah this is my Rolex grail
Nice, I was starting to miss your videos…
I love the freccione explorer 2. If Rolex brought that back, I’d grab it in a heartbeat. I’m a big fan of your mod suggestions, except for the negative dial which looks ugly. Case needs to be 40mm if going with oyster bracelet
As usual, your take on how the watch could look, is better than the actual! Make it so 👍
I just wonder what you would have said on it's debut, hindsight is alwase 20/20. Check out Steinhart's version. The reason it died is everyone hated it even more than the Paul Newman Daytona. Interesting don't you think? Where are you from, l can't place the accent ? Cheers
The Steinhart Ocean One vintage GMT. I love how Steinhart has fun with them. Also check it out, they now have a Paul Newman Daytona.
@@xpusostomos. I am a Moderator of the Steinhart 10 000 plus member group.. thanks
Another interesting video from you. I had wondered what they used to look like. I do not like the 42mm version, it is too big for me. I think the more modern ones are easier to read the time. Would be nice if they had it in a 40mm with their modern bracelet.
I would pay good money for your negative dial redesign of this watch. Well played sir.
The only thing I don't like about this exercise is that it makes the black dial the obvious choice -- whereas I feel like most folks like the polar dial with the actual watch.
I didn't know that much about this beautiful watch, i've one and even i didn't know anything about it was love at first sight!
Once again! A fascinating insight well presented. Thanks.
Great video.
i v no idea what to say after i saw your redesign of the modern explorer 2. I can only click subscribe and like.
This channel is gold. Subscribed.
The more I see the Explorer II, the more I like it. Wancher makes a homage that has the dimensions of the modern II but with 1655's dial.
I know the orange GMT hand started here, but I like Explorer II with the red.
Very cool watch ! Thanks
I think the 16570 is the sweet spot: 40mm case, full GMT functionality, modern movement.
Not only is the mercedes hand the wrong style for this watch, the point of the watch is to let the 24-hour hand be the dominant indicator. The over-sized hour hand competes too much with the orange 24-hour hand. I agree Rolex should get away from the Sub/GMT dials on this model and create a unique (or closer to the original) style. Interestingly, now that the watch is 42mm, Rolex has more room on the dial to use the original-styled markers and still keep it legible.
Very nice video, and point of view
Keep it up!
Could the 1655 originally conceived as a space watch? Would certainly explain a lot of its design….
Steinhart made mine in 42mm with an ETA. ❤
Fascinating stuff!
Great video. I'd say the original Explorer 1655 would classify as my favorite watch. If Rolex were to release something more representative of the original model I'd make it a priority to get one. Since they don't, the Steinhart GMT scratches that itch for me. I know I know, the Steinhart model is an homage watch--I don't get hung up on that. The Steinhart isn't in the same league as Rolex when it comes to quality, but when compared to other $500-ish watch companies it's a great value for $. In my opinion they even "did one better" than Rolex in the style category--kept the original Explorer II's dial/hands/bezel, and improved it even more by removing the cyclops and bumping up the size to 42mm. Now if only it included a Rolex oyster case/bracelet/movement, it would be the PERFECT watch.
Recently got the 39mm Olko Special Edition of the Steinhart Ocean GMT. A near PERFECT copy of the Rolex 1655, which I owned and wore from about 1978 to 1988. I traded it on on a Submariner, and have regretted it at times since. Especially when I realized how collectible it became...with prices around $30,00!!!
But honestly, the Steinhart s a BETTER watch than my old Rolex. It has a milled clasp instead of the stamped one. Sapphire crystal instead of the acrylic. And an independetly adjustable GMT hand!
The Steinhart is my everyday watch to wear now. Serious quality. And everytime I glance at the time, it's 1978 all over again! 😄😎
I wouldnt buy the original exp2, but I would buy your modern concept. And you got it right, it has too many gmt/sub elements.
Dope intro! I think it could be shortened a bit, though :)
Agree that your redesign is a massive improvement-Mercedes ornaments belong one place, and that place is an automobile hood. Love the channel, keep it up!
Great video
Wow ! Very good work. New subscriber !
I think Tudor have now found a good solution, even though the indices are circular. Too many wide rectangles made the dial a bit too busy. The slim rectangles on the 1655 worked well. The Tudor now has too many “snowflake” hands going on. The GMT hand could have done with differentiation. But going with an arrow would have brought it very close to the vintage Rolex. Given they have already used very similar numerals on the bezel, it then might have just become a Rolex re-edition.
My Steinhart homage has the eta 2893-2 that has an independent gmt hand and is technically superior. The original Rolex 1655 did not have one.
I like your commentary in general. I only disagree with a lume of the entire dial. It would make the watch too noticeable for evening wear and would be regarded as garish in my opinion.
Really good one!
Maybe it's just me, but if I had a Rolex 1655, I don't think I would wear it rock climbing, scratching it multiple times every day. However, I would wear it every other day!
One word you are awesome
More wonderful insights into watch design, and again a refreshing perspective that's intelligent and articulate.
Coming back to check this in a year, just realised that IDGuy improved his microphone :D
Very interesting. Too bad they went to Submariner hour markers on the modern Explorer 2s.
Me to as a Belgium in knysna;) i think wit a mercedes hourhand it will be better. Nice design
I actually love the Rolex Explorer ii - currently it’s the only watch that still has the tool looks and feels ... it’s functional, rouged and outstanding. It doesn’t scream for attention (like the GMT or submariner, Yachtmaster, e.g.) which screams jewelry before tool watch. I have decided for the Explorer ii over the GMT Master - the reason is very clear; I travel a lot (different continents) second time is a wonderful complicating + date... not shiny bezel (attraction to the bad eyes) and not polished bracelet 👌🏻👌🏻 perfect daily watch
hope they will get more watches out of the "Benz" hand, it just become too much for me to see most of the sport rolex sharing the same hand
I have a Rolex submariner my next watch is Rolex Explorer 2 black dail 42m the size is perfect and the second hand prices are going up the more l see it the more l want it its a classic
Today G-Shock fits cave exploration much more than Rolex.
Yessss! Lumed dial!
The vintage explorer 2 and the vintage milgauss 1019 are probably the coolest rolex one can ever have! I really don't think the different vintage submariners or the paul newman daytonas are anywhere near as cool.
Love your channel, but do not agree with your rendition of the Explorer 2. Your version is way to cluttered, as you usually say about watches. I really love the new Explorer 2 and I own it.
The 1655 and 1675 don’t share the same case. It’s a thicker case on the 1655.
One must be bonkers to wear an Explorer as a tool watch while climbing in 2019. It is like like racing a Formula 1 race against Lewis Hamilton in a Cooper Climax.
I wouldn't change my Explorer polar White with the new / old layout...
Fascinating as may be , i wont go hunt for it given its so dated that the lumes arent remotely bright plus the servicing needed to old/worn parts, plus polishing, plus refinishing or repainting the numbers on the bezel, etc. The movement itself may be rare (read : expensive) to service or repair. It has all the hallmarks of maintaining a vintage watch.
Indefinitive, the 1655 is the more logic one.
I think i shall take up cave exploration, and then buy an Explorer.
Or buy an Explorer, and then become an explorer.
I bought a diver and then took up diving. Love the watch, but not diving. I couldn't equalize the pressure in my ears, my doctor said my ears sucks for that sort of stuff or something.
10/10 - would recommend buying watch then do activity.