Thank you so much for sharing your ideas. This video really helped me out. I had fixed wheels installed before on my jig and the shells kept wobbling. Now with the two adjustable front wheels the shell I'm working on right now runs smoothly. Routing will follow! I also figured out that cheap furniture wheels made of relatively hard plastic that are sitting loosely on their axle are working better than skateboard wheel with high precision ball bearings.
I can't even think about cameras during the R and D stages of a project! I used to have an old sears router with a very low motor profile. Wish I had never sold it! Good luck, looking forward to the next vid. Take care -Chris
Joseph, I'm also experiencing issues with my shell not tracking on all 4 wheels, or staying in contact with all 4 wheels during the milling of the inside. Are there special caster wheels I should use? Also, is there a trick to getting the wheels lined up parallel to the shell? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy your videos!
In the video you watched, I made one side of the jig adjustable to account for tracking issues (the shell is not always perfectly cylindrical), but I had to be very careful to make sure that the two front wheels were as close as possible to being exactly the same distance from center and same with the back wheels. It seems that no matter what I do--and even though I do get all four wheels in contact with the shell--I always have to attach (either with glue or screws) a couple of "bushing" blocks on either side of the shell and clear of the sled to keep the shell from eventually rolling off the wheels. It's really just a matter of fiddling around until it's right. If you go with a more expensive build--more expensive parts/materials--I'm sure it can be even more accurate, but, if you're like me, you're doing this all on the cheap.
@@JosephCenter thanks for the quick reply! Good advise. I was trying to stay away from having to rebuild my inside milling jig but it looks like I may have to make the wheels adjustable. Makes sense. Again thanks for the advice.
YouR videos are great! I believe you might have mentioned it in another video, but what type of router bit do you recommend for inside routing? I believe you just use a straight bit for the outside routing but use something different for inside? Thanks!
Thanks, Marc! I use a straight bit on the inside as well. I've tried using a half-round bit, but it didn't do a very nice job. Obviously, though, with the lack of any radius built into the straight bit, there's a fair bit of sanding needed on the inside. It's a pain in the neck, but I haven't found a better way.
Hi, Gustavo! I'm hoping to do a highly detailed set of videos in which I really break down each step of the building process, including cutting the snare beds. As it is, my process for doing so is very simple: I mark the desired width of the snare bad, take a flat file, and grind away until it's where I want it to be. I hope this helps, and in the meantime, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Have patience with me in getting to the next video series, though, as I'm super busy with work and family right now. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Hello Joseph, greetings from Ireland. First off really enjoy your channel your results are unreal. I've started my own snare project just working with some rough wood to start. Going alright ha. What router would you recommend to buy for this work and where would you recommend buying the hardware for the drum as well. Thanks for everything looking fort to your next video
Hey, Damien! Greetings from Ohio, USA. :) Any router will do, frankly, though probably a trim router might not be powerful enough. Just a router than you can adjust for depth and undermount to your bench. I'd like to have adjustable speed, but I don't. I only spent $60 on the thing new. Drum hardware for me is through drumfactorydirect.com, but I don't know what kind of service they offer to Europe. A regular client of mine in Europe will buy used drums cheap online, take off their hardware, and apply them to the new shells I build. Good luck!
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas. This video really helped me out. I had fixed wheels installed before on my jig and the shells kept wobbling. Now with the two adjustable front wheels the shell I'm working on right now runs smoothly. Routing will follow! I also figured out that cheap furniture wheels made of relatively hard plastic that are sitting loosely on their axle are working better than skateboard wheel with high precision ball bearings.
Very useful idea
I can't even think about cameras during the R and D stages of a project!
I used to have an old sears router with a very low motor profile. Wish I had never sold it!
Good luck, looking forward to the next vid.
Take care
-Chris
Joseph, I'm also experiencing issues with my shell not tracking on all 4 wheels, or staying in contact with all 4 wheels during the milling of the inside. Are there special caster wheels I should use? Also, is there a trick to getting the wheels lined up parallel to the shell? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy your videos!
In the video you watched, I made one side of the jig adjustable to account for tracking issues (the shell is not always perfectly cylindrical), but I had to be very careful to make sure that the two front wheels were as close as possible to being exactly the same distance from center and same with the back wheels. It seems that no matter what I do--and even though I do get all four wheels in contact with the shell--I always have to attach (either with glue or screws) a couple of "bushing" blocks on either side of the shell and clear of the sled to keep the shell from eventually rolling off the wheels. It's really just a matter of fiddling around until it's right. If you go with a more expensive build--more expensive parts/materials--I'm sure it can be even more accurate, but, if you're like me, you're doing this all on the cheap.
@@JosephCenter thanks for the quick reply! Good advise. I was trying to stay away from having to rebuild my inside milling jig but it looks like I may have to make the wheels adjustable. Makes sense. Again thanks for the advice.
YouR videos are great! I believe you might have mentioned it in another video, but what type of router bit do you recommend for inside routing? I believe you just use a straight bit for the outside routing but use something different for inside? Thanks!
Thanks, Marc! I use a straight bit on the inside as well. I've tried using a half-round bit, but it didn't do a very nice job. Obviously, though, with the lack of any radius built into the straight bit, there's a fair bit of sanding needed on the inside. It's a pain in the neck, but I haven't found a better way.
Excelente bendiciones broo, yo igual estoy enseñando como hacer tambores de bateria y carpinteria , saludos desde México
Hello Joseph! Would you do a vídeo on how do you cut the snare beds? Loving your channel all the way from Portugal.
Hi, Gustavo! I'm hoping to do a highly detailed set of videos in which I really break down each step of the building process, including cutting the snare beds. As it is, my process for doing so is very simple: I mark the desired width of the snare bad, take a flat file, and grind away until it's where I want it to be.
I hope this helps, and in the meantime, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
Have patience with me in getting to the next video series, though, as I'm super busy with work and family right now.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Thank you so much for sharing with us. Waiting forward for that set of videos.
Put an inch thick board under the wheels.
What happens if you don't router the inside? Does it affect the sound?
Tia Beaufort I don't know for sure as far as the shape is concerned. Thickness however makes a significant difference.
Interesting. Thanks for your videos. I am going to try one without routering the inside and see what happens
Hello Joseph, greetings from Ireland. First off really enjoy your channel your results are unreal. I've started my own snare project just working with some rough wood to start. Going alright ha.
What router would you recommend to buy for this work and where would you recommend buying the hardware for the drum as well.
Thanks for everything looking fort to your next video
Hey, Damien! Greetings from Ohio, USA. :) Any router will do, frankly, though probably a trim router might not be powerful enough. Just a router than you can adjust for depth and undermount to your bench. I'd like to have adjustable speed, but I don't. I only spent $60 on the thing new. Drum hardware for me is through drumfactorydirect.com, but I don't know what kind of service they offer to Europe. A regular client of mine in Europe will buy used drums cheap online, take off their hardware, and apply them to the new shells I build.
Good luck!
@@JosephCenter thanks Joseph just ordered one there :) once again love your channel. I video on marking out hardware would be spot on 👌
U need another router...
Take the FESTO 1400 EBQ👍
Schon mal darüber nachgedacht dir ein anderes Hobby zu suchen, das mit den Holzarbeiten scheint nicht so das richtige für dich zu sein ;-)