"STORM MAPLE" STAVE DRUM, Pt. 3: FINISH & JIG WALK-THROUGH
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 май 2017
- Finishing up--literally--the "storm maple." This shell posed some interesting challenges, the solutions to which resulted in perhaps the most unique shell yet. Thanks for watching!
Check me out on Instagram, Facebook, Etsy, and Patreon:
/ joseph_center
/ jscpercussion
www.etsy.com/shop/JSCPercussion
/ josephcenter 
Хобби
Awesome video Man! It is insane how little you actually need to make a stave drum. You made this from a hollow stump from your yard!!! And you made it on a particle board table with a piece of threaded rod and some 2x4 off cuts. So cool!
I do have one question about the Stave Calculator. You said that if possible it is best to use as few staves as possible. I know that the width of your thinnest board mostly dictates how many staves you need to make a circle. But as far as I can see, the stave calculator does not tell you how thick the end shell's wall thickness will be. For example... if I want to use only 10 staves, I know that each stave must be at least 4.59 inches and be cut with an 18 degree angle. However, if each stave is 3/4" thick to begin with, then after milling the inside and outside on the jigs, I cannot tell how thick the wall will end up. If each stave's original thickness were 2" then the drum wall will be significantly thicker... but how much thicker? Am I making sense?
Thanks! On the stave calculator, scroll down to the bottom of the page. It provides a readout of all pertinent measurements, including "rounded thickness." I believe that's the number you're looking for. The only reason why fewer staves is better, is because it means less wood, and less interruption to the continuity of the grain. Improves resonance.
Ahhh man. I hate it when it's right in front of you like that. Thanks man!
No worries! I missed it when I was first looking for it, too. :)
Michael Perkins thanks brother! Love and light
instablaster.
Awesome brother!! You’re a true craftsman!
THANKS A T O N for the free flow of knowledge. I'm not really a wood worker. More like a Seat-of-the - Pants HACK at most things WOOD!
You are truly inspirational without knowing it. This makes you charming in your presentation actually. Another thing your videos show
shamelessly is that "even being left-handed" lol, you can still make some really tricked out drums!!
You are inspiring me so much. Thanks for the videos, I will use some of your methods in my drum-works :)
Great job!!!
So cool of you to do this video, and a cool video. Someday I want to do this.
this is so awesome! i will try to build a snare this summer with lots of ideas coming from your work :)
NIce job man!! I didn't see , maybe you forgot it to make the snare bed at the bottom for the strainer.I think it's important.
+Joseph
I have an idea to avoid the burning marks at 12:20...
To use the plate turning motor from a microwave owen as feeder, wich probably will result a smoother router cut and this can olso significantly reduce the sanding time.
Feeder wheel from the top pushing against the shell thanks to gravity and weight if needed. Could be mounted on the wall on a hinge...
Cool idea! I've thought for a while how beneficial it would be to make some automatic feeders or motorized rotation for the jigs. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've got a big order that just came in, though, maybe it's time....
hey I love your videos. I am about to build my own snare drum or even a whole drum set but I cannot estimate how much time it takes. how long does it take you from the wood log to playing the snare drum?
I only have time to work a few hours a week, and mostly on Saturdays. I think this shell took about 3 of those Saturdays. If you're not interrupted (I've got 3 kids, so...), and your jigs are already built and ready to go, you could do it in two days. One day to do all of your cutting (faster if you have the right tools), let the glue up dry over night, and then you milling the next day. I usually leave a few days for finish, because I like to apply multiple coats of oil, which needs to cure each time before I finish with paste wax. Drilling and hardware will only take a couple of hours, tops.
How do you finish the drum? No wet sanding and all that stuff? Awesome work also! Real inspiration. Have you ever thought about maybe doing a bass drum?
Hi, Simon -- For most of my drums, I sand down to about 800, sometimes higher, and then oil and wax it. I generally try to avoid most film finishes, like poly, because I don't want to get in the way of the natural shell vibration any more than I have to. Admittedly, oil and wax both alter the wood a little bit--the oil goes into the grain, and the wax goes on the surface, of course--but I also like it to look and feel like wood! :) On my current project--a djembe, here: ruclips.net/video/5NwHL51rp6A-/видео.html-I'm looking at doing a high-gloss poly finish.
Hi Joseph, mate I'd just like to start by saying I love what you do and the simplicity of how you do it as far as your tools and jigs. You have given me the desire to make stave shells for myself. I do have a question for you though, have you found a large difference in sound quality between different wood types? I live in Australia so am wanting to make mine from Aussie hardwood, with the first being made from tassie oak which I have bought from a recycled timber yard. Also what is the standard thickness you make yuur snares? From what I've seen it is generally around a 1/2 inch? Being and Aussie I'll stick to my 12.7 millimetres lol but have you tried thinner shells? Sorry if you have explained this as I haven't watched all the videos as yet but am getting there lol.
Dude, Australia has one of the most famously perfect hardwoods for drums, jarrah. I've wanted to try it out for ages. In my very humble experience (I'm not an expert), choice of woods on drums has a comparable, if understated by comparison, impact on instrument tone and resonance as it does in other instruments, including strings, clarinet, piano, even marimbas and xylophones. I tend to be leery of oaks, because they often have a very dry acoustic character in my experience, but, of course, that might be just what you're looking for! Something I'm learning is that the wood used for a shell tends to settle and break in as time goes on. When I first apply the hardware and load up the heads for a test drive, the drum is almost always very bright. As time goes on, and as the drum is used, however, the tone mellows out. Something I want to do, but haven't yet, is build a series of drums with identical measurements, tune them identically, and line them up for a side-by-side sound comparison.
As far as thickness is concerned, I prefer thinner shells. I believe (I don't have evidence) that you get more of the character of the wood. Thicker shells are louder, dryer, and better able to really project. My newest shells I take down to a 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch and then leave the thickness at approx. 1/2 for the top and bottom 1 inch of the shell as a sort of incorporated reinforcement hoop.
hi nice shells!!, What oil do you use to finish off the shells?.
I use several coats of either teak or Danish oil, and then finish with paste wax.
One question Drummy, what angle to I slice the wood to get the curve for the snare? Thanks!
One obtuse answer: depends on how many staves you intend to use. ;)
super glue is awsome
Super man
Hey what do you do about the small separations between the staves? I recently made a 20 stave Birch shell (i want to start turning it down) but i guess my staves weren't perfect and i have small separations... Is it time to start over, should i try to use stainable wood filler? what would you do?
Well, that's a tough one. Here's my humble take: I made a lot of mistakes in my first shells, this one perhaps most so. The gaps drive me crazy. There are mistakes here and in other shells that I've considered fixing. For example, if I jigged this shell up right, I could route out nice straight 1/8" slots and inlay a contrasting wood--like more cherry (though I've got some gorgeous ash that is almost pale golden when finished). on your birch shell, probably the joints are strong enough as is, depending in part upon how thick you left the shell. If you have the material for it, though, I would recommend just starting over and taking the necessary steps to ensure truly flat bevels. Also, and again depending on the dimensions of the materials you've got, go with fewer staves. Like, 10. The fewers staves, the fewer bevel cuts, and the smaller the chance of falling anywhere south of perfect for the glue-up.
Im gunna finish it up just for learnings sake.. I will send you pictures when i finish.. I'm not yet skilled enough for inlays unfortunately. Thanks for the advice! You are awesome man!
scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28577148_10212113263051160_8587559865599575606_n.jpg?_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeEfv2xxZTa9gApN4O5aTymf9VUQhU6CRxou0mKdgrtNTuzqdFFaSIYlo164TFG7Bl8fItLiuJyqbA257DeArUNIuEjXqdFEm0v4-y0iqVjphQ&oh=f112434f60bb05c723fe98db2c67b86d&oe=5B0A97EB
That looks sweet!
its a little too thin! Its my first one so i won't be too hard on myself, my next will be better, i used a 45 degree with a roundover for the bearing edge... Whats your preference for your bearing edges?
Good morning ..
Can you do a diy jig building video i e always wanted to make a stave and been trying to find out how to accomplish this on a small budget
I did a video each (they're not great videos, but I think they get the necessary points across) on the jigs I'm using now:
Here's the outside rounding jig: ruclips.net/video/Cpwj8lQdDtE/видео.html
And the inside rounding jig: ruclips.net/video/GzNAMY43N5g/видео.html
Im very love your video please give me more esplication so i wont todo a snare like you
Im lucner haïtien i leave republique dominicain i would like to do one drum snaire ..whew i can find this machine to buy