The HAMLIN DEEP FOREST SNARE Shell, Pt. 2
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Spalted birch, ash, and black walnut, all of which had been either split for firewood or for the chipper. Turned out awfully pretty, don't you think?
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nicely built. may I ask what do you put on the inside of the shell to seal the wood?
Ya know what I like about your projects? You always show the good and the bad. It is tough when a table fence is not "true", or when you think you sand enough until to stain the would and find a few spots. But, no project will ever be perfect, especially with wood:) Your drums are great, keep it up. I just made my 2nd one, I am putting the youtube vid together. I made my own lugs, AND They have some blemishes!!
Man, and there was plenty of the "bad" that got edited out! Thanks for the encouragement. I'm looking forward to your video.
I have some Birch that has some of that mild rotting. It comes from leaving the bark on in my case. Most of the logs were too soft to even use once I got around to cutting them up so I learned my lesson. There’s a few logs in the woods but I won’t cut them up and bring them home until I’m ready to cut them up. Your wood does look to be Ash. Ice looking drum. Did you think about filling that large void with epoxy?
Awesome work ! This drum looks very good !
Amazing job my man! Keep up the good work
your channel is amazing! you definitely need more recognition for you materials. :D keep up the good work.
Why does the first bevel need to be slightly wider than the exact end length? How much do you usually overshoot by?
Maybe it's just my saw, but if I cut the first bevel at exact width, the second bevel falls short of a nice crisp angle edge to edge. Ultimately, this might not matter (at least if the bevel are dead on accurate), because the rounding of the shell will eliminate the gap. I like to have the bevels as broad and true as possible, though, because it helps in the glue-up.
Hello Joseph! Some questions: Why did you make the reinforcement rings / hoops?? Are they really necessary??? What's the diference between the sound with the "45º" edge and the "rounded / baseball bat" edge ?
Good morning, Arteiro -- Bearing edge question first: in my limited experience, the full roundover--or "baseball bat" produces fewer overtones. I have a buyer who thinks they direct more of the vibration of the head into the shell, so you get more of the character of the shell with each stroke. I don't know if I buy this, but it definitely makes the head less "lively." As for the reinforcement rings, well, they do the same thing rerings do on traditional shells, adding rigidity to the shell. The hope is that I can get a thinner shell but retain rigidity. Because I'm not super experienced yet, I have had the guts to try out a super thin shell without reinforcement. Maybe you can do that and let me know how it turns out! :)
Love it man! I've got a bunch of stave shells glued up right now for a handful of customers. Two questions.
1. With the vertical disc sander. How are you ensuring that your shells are being sanded "true" instead just flat without a 90deg fence at the bottom? I'm building the same set up in my shop, is why I ask. (no more manual sanding!)
2. Why don't you just turn your drums on the lathe?
Hey, Zach -- Answers to your questions:
1. I checked for square off camera. I guess I should have included that. Also, before I cut the bearing edges, I rested the shell on the horizontal bars, perpendicular to the sander face, and I know those are square.
2. The lathe I have was a gift from some friends. I have neither turning tools, a tool rest, nor a chuck. I guess I don't really need the third, since I have a face plate, but until I can get a tool rest made (I'm not coughing up for that right now), I'm sticking with the router. I've working on plans for a djembe (haven't played one since I sold mine to help pay for post grad years ago), and that will require the lathe.
Awesome man! I'm in a very similar situation. I just bought the Nova 1624 44, with the swiveling head and what not. I have the turning tools, and the tool rest, but Im finding it easier to start with the jigs to balance the shell first, then move to the lathe. At this juncture, the lathe is basically only used for sanding, which is a bummer. I am now going to invest into compound sliding tables (similar to the set up you would have on a metal lathe). This way I can fix my router to the tables and mill out the shell perfectly with very little margin for error.
I had a lot of trouble finding the information I was seeking in all the normal outlets, but then I stumbled upon hickler banjos. This guy is doing exactly that, and its perfect for stave construction! Check out that link below. That series of videos has completely changed my mindset on all of these jigs. I would LOVE to see someone with your brain take on this style, and adapt some sort of jigs that could work in a similar way, but at a fraction of the price.
cheers man, Im really digging your videos
-buffalodrumco
ruclips.net/video/_E3VG6dsVYs/видео.html
Yes, I've watched this guy's stuff on banjo making! My long-term plan for some time has been to build a sliding table jig for the lathe and either the router or just a cutting tool.
Perfeita, parabéns por tão belo trabalho
Hey Joseph, what was the purpose of adding the hardener?
Well, in my cold-medicine-induced haze, I managed to leave out the clip where I talk about how punky the spalted birch is.... *sigh* Oh, well. Anyway, that's what the hardener was for, the punky spalted birch. :)
Do you have a link for where you bought that bevel gauge? And Is it accurate?
Good morning, Patrick! Here is what I bought from where I bought (though I purchased in-store rather than online). www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-5-in-Digital-Angle-Finder-822/203219287?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|google|&mid=sQ79m45U8|dc_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_195274179091_pkw__pmt__product_203219287_slid_&gclid=CjwKCAiAk4XUBRB5EiwAHBLUMTvWUFlusseRM7Muy6mK8yrgLOx7LUgdbLlxP-Ri-l13w3vLPbbz_BoCxfEQAvD_BwE It is accurate enough, though sometimes I run in to trouble because the surface of my table saw is not perfectly flat.
Thank you for the quick response! I use a digital bevel gauge, but the angle cube one that sticks magnetically to the table saw blade. I never really had consistent results with it though. I am definitely going to give this gauge here a look.
hello friend how are you ?? ... friend is that I have a question, what wood are you using and where can I buy it in which page? I am from Colombia.
Hi, friend from Colombia! I'm sorry to say, for your sake, that the wood was all found. I did no purchase any of it. There are 3 woods: ash, black walnut, and spalted birch. The ash and spalted birch came from a forest I spend time in regularly. The black walnut is from a tree that fell on my parents property.
Joseph Center
friend and out of curiosity you do not sell that wood? , and what price do the drummers do?
I don't sell the wood, because I don't have very much of it. :)
That is a beautiful drum!!! I have never glued end grain to end grain like that (for some reason I thought it would be weaker). I am assuming that you have not had any problems with that technique. Great videos - keep it up.
Thanks, man. I've got the shell rounded on the outside and sanded to 400. It looks amazing, and I can't wait to show it off. :) What a relief, too! This thing has literally given me nightmares.
Oh, yeah. Hardware: A sacrificial Tama. Don't remember the model (it's in a different room.) All chrome.
Now if only we could hear what it sounds like!!
Working on it.... :)
very nice. can I ask what the measurements were? the simple math?
I don't do the math myself for calculating the width and angles of the staves and segments, if that's what you mean. There's an awesome webpage that I always use: uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/
thank you! ☺ great video!
spettacolo
Grazie mille! :)
I was wondering if you can help me out with the measurements and the tools I need
Hi, Juan -- The tools and the measurements all depend upon what you're making and how big. A standard-sized snare drum only needs the tools I specify here: a router, a table saw, a drill, and a bunch of sandpaper. And something to clamp the shell while the glue is curing on the joints. As for the measurements, again, it depends on other factors, like how many staves, how thick the wood, and so on.
Joseph Center thanks but you think you can help me out with the parts I need to buy
I'm building one for my Graduation project and I really need some help on putting the rim and rods and all that stuff and as well the parts I need
Hi, Juan. The shopping list for assembling a snare is pretty straight forward, but can get costly. I'm not sure where you live, so don't know which seller to recommend, so will leave that to you. Here's the list, starting with the obvious: batter and snare side drum hoops, lugs (same number of lugs as number of holes on the hoops), tension rods corresponding to the number and thread size of the lugs, an air vent, a snare strainer and butt end, and snare wires (corresponding in length to the diameter of your drum shell). You may need to get washers and screws in addition to your strainer, butt end, and lugs, and also to space the rods heads from the hoops. Some sellers provide the washers and screws to mount all the hardware with the hardware pieces themselves.
Do you already have a drum shell?
Good luck with your graduation project! :)
Joseph Center thanks for the list and you think I can contact you some other way so that I can show you the picture of the drum shell ?
How much n if i ask for a native American drum just like that one you made just msg me on here
If you're interested, message me at jscpercussion@gmail.com We can talk in more detail there.
I can't find you
Bigswayze11@gmail.com
Hallo mr.joseph, my name is wahjoe, may i know your instagram? I your fans, I very loved with your chanel.
Good morning, Wahjoe. I don't do much right now on my instagram, though I do have one. You're welcome, of course, to check it out. :) instagram.com/joseph_center/
dude use safety equipment
seriously