PT 12 - Replacing the inner and outer tie rods on the MK1 TT
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2023
- In this video, we'll get the car ready for alignment by changing the inner and outer track rods and swapping out the rusty old bolts that are stopping the rear trailing arms from being straightened. This is a must watch video for any Audi TT owner!
Thankyou for taking the time to do this video on the mk1 Audi tt, very useful very practical guide.
Great job mate with the TT ❤ keep up the amazing content. But definitely sort the rust out.
Hello mate, thanks for your advice from a few weeks ago. Old arms put back on with new bushes and cars now got a mot. 👍 Gotta sort the rust out on the arches and side skirts hoping it's not to bad. Thanks again👍
Good work. One job leads to six. With a TT you need a big wallet
Steering wheel angle sensor in column. There's an external adjustment on rack n pinion to center the rack. Tie rod ends would be falling apart if the cause. Are your wheel turns, w/o tie rod ends connected, loc-to-loc equal? If not adjust rack center. You'll feel a definite rub when leaving center to turn left or right. That's crucial before alignment. Should've used the cut-off tool to slit the tie rod end. Would spin right off then. Shop didn't heat it properly to expand the sleeve. Would've spun right off.
My guess is your main alignment problem is the front control arms rear bush.
While you're tweaking handling include clutch response. Stock is very sluggish purposely for the masses. Pull the bleeder block next to starter. It's removal and disassembly is via 3 spring clips. At the clutch end of bleeder block you'll see a star shaped fluid restriction. Pull the pin to remove bleeder screw n seat. Now dump that star restriction plug out. Assemble and bleed. Damn, that clutch listens to your foot really good now!
@Totalrebuilds_official Diagnostics: Pay no attention to steering wheel position, with engine Off, tie rods connected or not, count number of turns loc-to-loc, then turn wheel to half that. Now you're on the center tooth. Pinion center tooth is shaped differently. You must feel that tooth slightly resist then release as turning wheel L or R from rack center position. It's much easier to adjust having a person at wheel, and another under car while tweaking that adjustment. It is usually hashed marked in degrees for reference.
Also with new inner and outter tie rods they should measure the same length. Then adjust toe equally at each side. You want a touch of toe IN. Preliminary setting can be done using a tape measure. Measure between L & R tires front and rear. Adjust tie rods equally so front distance is 5mm less than rear distance of front tires. If car pulls L or R your Caster or Camber is the cause.
19:19 you can use a laser shot it down the side of car and then you can measure measure front and back of each wheel and that will line up
Hi , I have a problem with changing the bolts ,they seem to be expensive, different bolts have different tensile strength marked on the head ,as well as nuts unc threads I would think ?
Are you keeping a running cost?
Wouldnt some anti-sieze or copper slip on the tie rod threads and the bolts you fitted be advisable?
@@GreaseMonkeysGarage Fair enough, my understanding of general torque values was that it's based off a thread that is lightly oiled/lubricated unless stated otherwise.
Great insight, I'll be using a TT set up on my mk4 Golf, where did you get the inner tie rod tool from?
Thanks buddy got the parts from my local car user