BRO TELL ME ABOUT IT NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I RING MY BELL, SO FEW PEOPLE LEAVE. BUT WHEN I FUCKIN SWEAK MY BREAKS, THEY START PANICKIN AND LEAVIN LIKE YEAH FOCK YOU
@@WayStedYouI’ve got a pushbike in the shed and I’ve never done this, heard or seen of it being done. It isn’t a common thing for the average pushbike owner to do.
@@OpticMoos Just cuz it isn't common doesn't mean it isn't basic. Most people will just live with squeaky brakes rather than go out of their way to properly maintain them.
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 please think of the people living in these cities :( there were already enough noise without all those squeaky bikes :( I just heard another one by the time it took to write this comment ...
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915i just hang a bluetooth speaker on my handlebars and set the volume so u can hear it about 10 feet away while surrounded by loud vehicles. Classical music, metal, drum and bass, lets drivers who are blind to anything that isnt a car know im near.
@thenuckinfoob01 Shimano pistons are finicky at best... And hack videos like this just make more work for bike mechanics (so maybe I shouldn't comment, that way I get more work 😉)
Been doing it for years this way, never had an issue. I pushed back maguras, hopes, shimanos and srams and never had a piston-related issue. Just gotta have a feel for it can't be forcing it too much.
Plastic levers rather than metal is going to prevent huge problems. That was the first thing that caught my eye. Also, mine were contaminated and new pads worked for me.
Brakes pads work by transferring part of the friction material onto the rotor. It’s all part of the bedding in process. By sanding the rotor you just reduce the braking efficiency until they bed in again ( and start to resonate once more)
Actually, the resonating is caused by dust that did not adhere to the disc surface. So clean the dust from the pads and discs with a clean cloth. That's all. No sand paper or blow dryer.
@@damianchristopher205 I think grease would be more efficient. WD40 just dries too quicky. Who has the time to lube the brake disc and pads once a week?
Никаких натираний наждачкой диска! Просто протираем бензином/растворителем. А вот колодки лишь слегка чистим и прокаливаем (пока дымить будут). Ничего не разрушается. Три года назад делал так себе. И год назад доче. Совет мне этот дал один хороший товарищ.
Use copper grease on the back of the pad, ie where the pad contacts the cylinder. Obviously this needs to be done very carefully. I haven’t had any squeak since I started doing this.
This is done on motorcycles as well. This is the proper way to remove squeaking. Squeak is just a vibration. The grease helps the pad moving freely against the cylinder and the vibration is not generated. The copper grease just lasts longer on the pad. Can't believe this is so low in the comments
@@radelpaul11 I don't think there is aluminum on any part of the calipers, nor on the pads, nor on the pistons, if on the caliper itself . Maybe some brakes have them but I've never seen one
As someone who works in a bikeshop i can tell you - in most of the cases unfortunately that doesn't work - it may helps for maybe 1 Kilometer but after that the Sound is back. If you use instead of a heatgun a blowtorch and burn the pads until they nearly start to melt then grinding them down a bit then i works most of the time but for the time you spent - cost of the tools and may accuring safety issues (maybe it loosens the glue between metallpart and the Brake Material) - you just can buy new Brake Pads thay cost just 5-10 bucks each...
legit. did the same thing with my ebike and I was so happy the squeak was gone the first 3 times I tested it but as soon as I rode home and had to brake it was back 😭 I need to buy new pads I tried it for a while by going down the steepest hills i could find and by repeatedly doing a full on emergency brake while going fast and after like 45 minutes I noticed the squeak was gone, i can brake the bike to a stop without squeaking, but I still need new pads
This actually works well. I had a customer, who pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.
@@alexzbarazky3038 I've had mixed luck. I've done alcohol soaks, hit it with some flame, squeal out, sandpaper, brake cleaner, you name it. I've done it for customers and told them I wouldn't charge for the service and if the problem persists to come in for new ones. Some swear it worked and I'll see them on a trail or on the road and some people don't even make it out the door before they started screeching and honking.
@@alexzbarazky3038the rotor is made of an anti-friction alloy and it deteriorates when overheated, so you need to be extremely careful when heating the rotor
I had to teach my lady something similar about wiper blades. We were driving in the rain for hours and the wipers started making noise and she thought she had to change them again, only a few weeks in… I stopped at a filling station (gas station for my US gang) and I cleaned the windshield and the wiper blades and everything was back to normal
I clean my wipers all the time(I live in the NW) and it helps so much especially with the water on the roads splashing up that has dirt/oil in it which really gets them dirty
I didnt know what to expect when following your steps but it actually helped immensely. Not only is the squeal gone, but the braking force is now 3x compared to what it was before. Great hack. thank you big time mate.
I just pull the pads out. Wipe the pads and rotor down with break cleaner. Blowtorch the pads for a couple of seconds then put them back. Works every time. If needed to fix them in the field, find a slope, pedal hard down hill while breaking. High heat is the key.
"works every time".. and this is the problem, that it repatadly is coming back :) I dont care about the sound anymore.. too much work for something you get back within a few rides.
@@bronsonstephens5799 you can only get the oils in the pads to go away by burning them. you need the pads to get hot enough to ignite the oil that's contaminating them.
@@bronsonstephens5799 it is not to burn up residue, but new pads have to be "burned in" so they wont squeak so soon. This creates something like a "matching pattern" on both the pad and rotor. If sand and contamination ruins this, noise starts. If you do not "ride in" the pads, you will brake hard 1-2 times and your brakes will start squeaking again. Some shops have machine for this to do it in a minute. Good videos on youtube how it is done "manually" on a hill or if you have some legs, on the flat.
Even new brakes can squeak. It’s good practice to clean rotors and degrease pads before installation, and that’s half of what was done in this video. Doesn’t hurt to surface polish/sand the rotors and pads to remove any rough spots from handling, shipping, manufacture imperfections/poor tolerances.
that's easy fixed with some fine clay in water, just coat the rotor in a thin coat & the pads bed in instantly. I prefer the yellow clay that we have in some of the hilly parts of Yorkshire, but any of the finer natural boulder clays should do it.
LOL i thought at the end of the short they were still going to squeak. I have tried all this stuff and they end up making noise after soon after.... Now I just ride...
@@cataplt depends on the pads and the level of contamination. My friend's shimano pads cleaned up just fine, my tektro pads didn't get all that much better
@@cataplt Thing is, the pads have to coat there residue over the brake discs to work. There cant be any contamination on the discs of other things. If the brake pads have been coated in...idk mineral oil from the brake system there toast. Other then that follow the steps below. Go in gear 1 Pedal while braking pretty hard. You feel the bike isn't really slowing down a lot but it makes a ton of noise. Keep going. Let slowly loose of the brake while still in motion every 30 sec or so, for few seconds and break again (to let the disc cool a little). Go brake on and now you should feel the bike slowing down a little more while still making noise. Press the break a little less. Now you should feel it getting stronger and stronger and letting more loose of the brake. When the noise is pretty much gone. Bike around do this thing above like 3 times between some cycling around and the noise should be gone.
Guy also resurfaced the pads and cross-hatched the rotor. It’s a good tip. Takes the glazing off the pads and rotor which is what causes the squeak. I’ve done it on a wet clutch on my race bike when I was having issues with slipping and it cleared that issue right up. Grabs like nobodies business
The handful of times I've had to resurface my pads, I used a sanding screen so the material could fall away from the pad surface and not be ground back into it. Doing that eliminated the need to clean and heat the pads in every case.
Через пол часа максимум скрип вернётся. Тут только замена колодок и тщательная очистка диска щеткой со стиральным порошком (в том числе в отверстиях диска), до состояния чистой воды и щетки. Иначе вся грязь из отверстий будет на ваших новых колодках.
Господа, вы же в курсе, чем по сути является скрип колодок при контакте с тормозным диском? Причина появления этого звука одинакова как в автомобильных колодках, так и в велосипедных. Наберитесь терпения, сейчас будет очень нудное повествование... Контактные поверхности пары колодка-поршень это металл, причем на колодке этот металл имеет эмалевое покрытие, предотвращающее контакт с металлом поршня. При торможении колодка ложится на диск/ротор и при не плотном прилегании к нему начинает вибрировать, что в совокупности с износом(отсутствием) эмали на обратной стороне колодки приводит к микротрению в паре поршень-колодка. Слышимый скрип это результат трения металла о металл и лечится восстановлением термостойкой и износостойкой эмали либо нанесением термостйкой, консистентной смазки на обраную сторону колодки. Прокаливание и зачистка рабочей повехности колодок, как отчищение диска/ротора, делается для удаления загрязнений, что в свою очередь уменьшает дополнительный износ пары колодка-диск/ротор, что в свою очередь позволяет избежать износа диска/ротора, что позволяет сохранить пятно контакта колодки большим и стабильным, что позволяет избежать появление шумов при торможении. Всё😊
If you get brake cleaner on the calipers or forks it can remove the paint and damage the protective finish. 30 seconds of work to pull the pads out to clean them. Or better yet just replace squeaking pads.
Shimano Hydraulics are extremely easy to rectify if there’s any brake rub. The tough ones are Magura as the disc is often so thick that the tolerance for smooth running is very small, in fact near impossible when the brake pads and discs are both brand new
depends on the brake. BR-4770 and BR-RX400 have almost no clearance in them, so it's nearly impossible to get them to stop rubbing when new. they do get a bit better after being broken in.
Little side-note: don't push the pistons back with al wrench, prefer something softer, like a plastic tirespoon. Shimano uses in some of the calipers ceramic cups! Ceramic cups wil break and will leak.
NEVER USE TOOLS WITH OUT THE PADS IN ON CERAMIC PISTONS! If you don't have the pads in you will Crack your pistons. Trust me, I cracked 2 of mine that way.
@@NonLegitNation2 yes lol, those 4 pod xts are a nightmare to work on, as those pistons just break when you look at them... I think even the deores have ceramic if I'm not completely blind... I thought the 4 pod 6120 I have lying around have ceramic, but I'm not completely sure... And those are not really pricey.
And those shitty ceramic pistons even crack with the right tools, even with pads in, without pads and with plastic lever, they always crack... Doesn't matter what you do, you have to press them back in straight, if they go in just a little bit crooked, they are gonna break. Really annoying to get the shards out again, right mate? 😂
@@ironeinar Yeah, really annoying. in my case, I got a set of 8120s for free, so I didn't mind as much, but the shards were everywhere! the hardest part was getting the ceramic dust out of the fluid ports where the mineral oil would normally flow, a good bleed kit and an air compressor got the job done!
@@owenadair8893 yeah thats so annoying, im happy that I dont have to encounter this problem on my personal brakes, because I run Shigura, but my boss in the shop, who serviced hundrets of ceramic pistons still has problems not breaking the pistons while pushing them back in xD
Just a FYI you should always sand against the pad path. Going with will create grooves that could and will groove your pads. Going against will aid in grip and also allow the pad to knock down the high spots over time.
This is a good point! I like to spin the wheel and move the sand paper in and out across the braking surface while it spins, it creates a criss-crossing wave type pattern. This is what we do with vehicle rotors when they've just been cut on a lathe.
If you dont have any of these tools, hears what worked for me. A gas stock, candle or lighter. Hold the brakepads over that heat for about a minute and allow to cool. The heat basically burns away most of the impurities that impregnate the brake pads. After it is cooled down, just lightly sand it off. Most importantly is to clean the disk breaks with some running alcohol to remove the oil from it. I did this once in January this year for a friend and he is still using the same breaks and has no issues to this very day .
El problema de ruido se soluciona limpiando pero también es porque las pastillas están rozando el disco de forma dispareja y se debe centrar correctamente la mordaza.
I find most of my brake noise goes away just by wiping down the rotor with some alcohol. I would consider this a level 2 procedure. If you resurface the pads/rotor, you'll also want to make sure the pads are bedded in properly too.
@@IRIS.3111 The rotor can be cleaned off with solvent. For the brake pads, you'll need to remove them from the calipers, then using some pliers to hold them, cook off the contaminants with a propane torch.
Perfect caliper parallelism to the disc rotor is far more critical for noise and stopping power. If the pads are used and already not the same thickness, then problems will persist.
This actually works well. I had a customer, that pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.
Another pro tip: adjust your caliper so it doesn't move or bend the rotor when the handle is pressed. That's a big cause for brake noise. Also makes the lever have a more solid engagement feel instead of mush.
I one-hundred % agree with this procedure. The only thing I will be very careful with is using a plastic lever to push the pads apart. I recommend you put the pads back in and use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons back into the caliper. Other than that, this is excellent video advice. And I’m a professional bicycle mechanic for over 40 years.
Yes, it will work good while it is in your service, but when your client will warm up pads while riding , pads will release grease that is hidden inside and noise and weakness will be back. Best way to solve this problem - buy new pads and clean rotor, if you can't do it try to put your old pads in a boiling water for a while.
Yeah, and I like to polish the calipers really well and go downhill holding the brakes all the way. That way I can easily forgeweld them to the rotor 🎉🎉🎉
Yeah. Sure. A company that has been making brakes and most other bike components for decades with thousands of engineers - should learn from a guy on the internet. Actually the pin works fine. It's not doing much - it's not actually holding the pads against the braking force (as you'll notice, none of car brake pads have a hole for either a pin or a screw). The holding is done by caliper body. Some of earlier brakes - for instance, the well-famous Avid Juicy series (3, 5, 7, Carbon) - didn't have a pin or screw at all - relied solely on placement of the pad in the caliper body and the metal spring. One of my bikes has these since 2005 - still work like a treat, even with abusive lack of maintenance.
@@JurisKankalis Cotter pins are a consumable item, they don't last forever. A good screw will last for as long as you take care of it. My bike has pads that are held in with a screw and it works like a charm.
@@lorraineschofield123 what is a castle nut and what is the cotter pin for? lol the cotterpin is to keep the nut from fully backing off. it does nothing to hold hubs or bearings.
Great, now you’ve got reduced braking efficiency until the rotor re-acquires a coating of pad material and the pads wear enough to conform perfectly with the tramlines in the rotor surfaces. The noise is generated by the leading edge of the pad “grabbing” the disc. The pad then sets up an oscillating motion within the caliper which creates the noise and increases wear rate of the pad and caliper thrust faces. To avoid or cure it just file a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge of both pads (the edge that a point on the rotor would meet first when travelling forwards). Then apply a just visible trace of copper grease to the pad backplate surface where it contacts the piston or caliper body, but not to it’s edges. The chamfer avoids the initial grab that sets off the resonance and the copper grease provides a small measure of damping and isolation medium to change the overall system’s resonant frequency. This is something that used to be taught to every apprentice mechanic back in the 70’s when disc brakes started to become commonplace on vehicles. It works, it also gives a much more progressive feel to the braking action, avoiding “grabbiness” on initial application of the brake.
Anyone else notice that the caliper he is working on is the Shimano m355 which is one of the most common caliper for failing and leaking this method is a short term fix as soon as you hear the pads up the oil will draw out of the pad material and the rotor is discolored by the oil it has absorbed and the same thing will happen as the pads they will become contaminated on the surface
As someone who has worked as a bike mechanic for 8 years, I can say this does work but won’t last long. Most of the time the noise doesn’t go unless you clean and burn off the rotor as well and if it does go it will almost always come back after a few kms. Also try a blow torch bro, heatgun won’t get hot enough to burn off the oil residue. New pads are only 5-10 bucks so honestly just replace them if the customer is ok with that
Step 1 take the brake pads out and sand them down a bit. Step 2 Spray Silca Brake and drivetran cleaner on them let them sit for 2 minutes. Step 3 spray solca Break and drivetrain cleaner on the diskbreak and let it sit for 2 minutes Step 4 hose the pads and the disc down. Step 5 let the disc dry by itself and put the pads back in the break. Step 6 once the disk is dry put wheel back in and to a qucick spin break once to get rit of all the resedue water Step 7 break again and there you go no more squeaky breaks And never wipe your disks down unless it a brand new cloth you never know what kind of oils are on those things
Organic or metallic pads contaminated with grease are rarely able to be fixed. Even with acetone and sanding, the contaminant has likely soaked throughout the whole thing and the problem will reoccur after some more wear. Don’t expect this to work all the time. If you attempt, use tons of acetone and let them soak for a long time, multiple times.
The solution for me was one I wasn't expecting at all. I performed a brake bleed and the squeal from my front rotor disappeared. I'd tried all the typical solutions before and had given up on the issue. However I performed the brake bleed and the noise went away. My theory is that air in the line was preventing my brake pads from making contact as hard as they should which is now no longer the case.
This is OK if you are on a roadside and if there is no bike shop or your own shed in sight. But this is at best a temporary fix. If your brakes are squeaky, there is a 90% chance you have gotten oil on your brake components. That has to have come from somewhere. And that somewhere likely is a leak in the system. If that is not resolved, the squeaking will be back in a day or two. It has happened to me. Had the squealing brake. Replaced brake pads and rotor on a Friday. Kept everything religiously clean. Test drive with no issues. Put 20 miles on the bike Saturday. Still no issues. Left bike in garage on Sunday. Monday morning the squeal was back. Turns out the bleed screw was ever so slightly loose and and oil seeped out veeeery slowly (we are talking literally a few drops) and and all over the pads. That’s why everything was OK for a couple days. And yes, I had successfully bled the brake before and was overcautious with the bleed screw as I did not want to overtighten it and bust the threads.
I like my squeaky brakes, they are more effective at getting people out of my way than using the bell.
BRO TELL ME ABOUT IT
NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I RING MY BELL, SO FEW PEOPLE LEAVE. BUT WHEN I FUCKIN SWEAK MY BREAKS, THEY START PANICKIN AND LEAVIN LIKE YEAH FOCK YOU
Звук бензопилы на гудке тоже классный эффект даёт)
😂
Yeah, after I heard the sound, I wondered why people should waste resources and time. He is literally causing wear and tear.
lol
bro described basic maintenance as "hacks"
Lmao
Next changing your oil in your car is gonna be called a "not blowing up your engine hack"
@@WayStedYouI’ve got a pushbike in the shed and I’ve never done this, heard or seen of it being done.
It isn’t a common thing for the average pushbike owner to do.
@@OpticMoos Just cuz it isn't common doesn't mean it isn't basic. Most people will just live with squeaky brakes rather than go out of their way to properly maintain them.
@@DaniTheGunsmith that’s exactly my point! So it is actually a hack.
Calling it a hack makes it seem more appealing for people to do
But I like the free horn sound 😂
It could be useful in cities
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 please think of the people living in these cities :( there were already enough noise without all those squeaky bikes :(
I just heard another one by the time it took to write this comment ...
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 Is*
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915i just hang a bluetooth speaker on my handlebars and set the volume so u can hear it about 10 feet away while surrounded by loud vehicles. Classical music, metal, drum and bass, lets drivers who are blind to anything that isnt a car know im near.
I had a BMX with super squeaky brake once. It really announced my presence everywhere I went 😅
"Do this after every ride and you're golden."
I usually spray the rotors and pads with WD-40. Completely removes the squeak.
Lmfao that first hill is always fun
Complete f00l is like applying oil to the brakes. Even when they work because of FRICTION!
@@SniperSnake50BMG lmfao 🤣 the joke went right over your head
@@grxygxds yeah. There was other dude that said he put grace to the rotors...
I did it… such a dumb…
They aren't hacks. It's called proper maintenance! And use a plastic tyre lever on the caliper pistons, so you don't damage them...
First you need work with vilinders while pads ar in. And then you can work with special metal tool.
@thenuckinfoob01 Shimano pistons are finicky at best... And hack videos like this just make more work for bike mechanics (so maybe I shouldn't comment, that way I get more work 😉)
Been doing it for years this way, never had an issue. I pushed back maguras, hopes, shimanos and srams and never had a piston-related issue. Just gotta have a feel for it can't be forcing it too much.
@@godcorrupt I'd agree, if you know what you're doing. But these "hack" videos are usually aimed at less than competent mechanics...😉
Plastic levers rather than metal is going to prevent huge problems. That was the first thing that caught my eye. Also, mine were contaminated and new pads worked for me.
Brakes pads work by transferring part of the friction material onto the rotor. It’s all part of the bedding in process. By sanding the rotor you just reduce the braking efficiency until they bed in again ( and start to resonate once more)
so WD-40 would have the same effect with less hassle then 😬
@@viktorbalogh8467Now THAT is a hack
Actually, the resonating is caused by dust that did not adhere to the disc surface. So clean the dust from the pads and discs with a clean cloth. That's all. No sand paper or blow dryer.
@@viktorbalogh8467You’re joking right?
@@damianchristopher205 I think grease would be more efficient. WD40 just dries too quicky. Who has the time to lube the brake disc and pads once a week?
Никаких натираний наждачкой диска! Просто протираем бензином/растворителем.
А вот колодки лишь слегка чистим и прокаливаем (пока дымить будут). Ничего не разрушается. Три года назад делал так себе. И год назад доче. Совет мне этот дал один хороший товарищ.
Не чешьто бензином нельзя , поевляеться пленка жирная не
Спасибо. Долго страдал от этого звука. Почистил всё, но наждачкой не тёр.
@@user-dg1pz4xn3b чушь несусветная. Бензином (я беру "галошу") вообще-то ОБЕЗЖИРИВАЮТ поверхности. Какая, к чёрту, жирная плёнка.
As a bike mechanic my preferred method is running up the nearest big hill and just holding the brake the whole way down. Works a dream most cases.
Yeah, I do that and it's flawless. Just warm a little and full power again.
Kansas hates you.
My laziness led me to believe this would work. Glad to hear that a professional agrees 😊. Thanks
That's a great way to glaze your brakes
Ahahahahah. NO
I kinda like the sound of the elephant trunk brakes, it’s a good warning as well to other people
Booga booga 🐘🐘
So am I. Let it sing!
@@user-bh6ey1ke4nMAN SHUT UP!!! 'FORE YOU MAKE ME DO SUM' I'M GON' REGRET!!!
Use copper grease on the back of the pad, ie where the pad contacts the cylinder. Obviously this needs to be done very carefully. I haven’t had any squeak since I started doing this.
i agree. copperpaste is the best.
This is done on motorcycles as well. This is the proper way to remove squeaking. Squeak is just a vibration. The grease helps the pad moving freely against the cylinder and the vibration is not generated. The copper grease just lasts longer on the pad. Can't believe this is so low in the comments
Dont use copperpaste it reacts with other Marerials Like Aluminium use Keramik Paste there is no Reaktion
@@radelpaul11 I don't think there is aluminum on any part of the calipers, nor on the pads, nor on the pistons, if on the caliper itself . Maybe some brakes have them but I've never seen one
Squeaky brakes literally saved me from colliding with an NPC in a European town..
As someone who works in a bikeshop i can tell you - in most of the cases unfortunately that doesn't work - it may helps for maybe 1 Kilometer but after that the Sound is back. If you use instead of a heatgun a blowtorch and burn the pads until they nearly start to melt then grinding them down a bit then i works most of the time but for the time you spent - cost of the tools and may accuring safety issues (maybe it loosens the glue between metallpart and the Brake Material) - you just can buy new Brake Pads thay cost just 5-10 bucks each...
Probably depends on how much contaminant the pads absorbed. My results where mixed, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.
$5-10 bucks where you getting your pads?
-edit: oh I see now cheap amazon knock offs
Why not just use rim breaks? I understand the benefits of discs on mountain bikes but I don’t see the need on road bikes.
Pro tech here too. This vid has some many red flags. 😂😂😂
Especially for this brakes model I also think that the new pads are the solution, they are cheap and easy to replace
"Here ya go... this will get you to the next shop for some new pads."
legit. did the same thing with my ebike and I was so happy the squeak was gone the first 3 times I tested it but as soon as I rode home and had to brake it was back 😭 I need to buy new pads
I tried it for a while by going down the steepest hills i could find and by repeatedly doing a full on emergency brake while going fast and after like 45 minutes I noticed the squeak was gone, i can brake the bike to a stop without squeaking, but I still need new pads
This actually works well. I had a customer, who pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.
@@alexzbarazky3038 I've had mixed luck. I've done alcohol soaks, hit it with some flame, squeal out, sandpaper, brake cleaner, you name it. I've done it for customers and told them I wouldn't charge for the service and if the problem persists to come in for new ones. Some swear it worked and I'll see them on a trail or on the road and some people don't even make it out the door before they started screeching and honking.
@@alexzbarazky3038the rotor is made of an anti-friction alloy and it deteriorates when overheated, so you need to be extremely careful when heating the rotor
I had to teach my lady something similar about wiper blades. We were driving in the rain for hours and the wipers started making noise and she thought she had to change them again, only a few weeks in…
I stopped at a filling station (gas station for my US gang) and I cleaned the windshield and the wiper blades and everything was back to normal
What did you use?
A cutter that slices a tiny slice off the edge probably @@aresorum
Or cleaned it
I clean my wipers all the time(I live in the NW) and it helps so much especially with the water on the roads splashing up that has dirt/oil in it which really gets them dirty
I didnt know what to expect when following your steps but it actually helped immensely. Not only is the squeal gone, but the braking force is now 3x compared to what it was before. Great hack. thank you big time mate.
If you keep them squeaky, you can attract elephants in a safari
😂
mine are so loud they even attract elephants in downtown! 🙀
I just pull the pads out. Wipe the pads and rotor down with break cleaner. Blowtorch the pads for a couple of seconds then put them back. Works every time. If needed to fix them in the field, find a slope, pedal hard down hill while breaking. High heat is the key.
"works every time".. and this is the problem, that it repatadly is coming back :) I dont care about the sound anymore.. too much work for something you get back within a few rides.
Why do you need to heat up the pads?
@@bronsonstephens5799 you can only get the oils in the pads to go away by burning them. you need the pads to get hot enough to ignite the oil that's contaminating them.
@@bronsonstephens5799 it is not to burn up residue, but new pads have to be "burned in" so they wont squeak so soon. This creates something like a "matching pattern" on both the pad and rotor. If sand and contamination ruins this, noise starts. If you do not "ride in" the pads, you will brake hard 1-2 times and your brakes will start squeaking again. Some shops have machine for this to do it in a minute. Good videos on youtube how it is done "manually" on a hill or if you have some legs, on the flat.
@@oranjidoh okay cool. Fascinating. Thanks for the info!
It’s so adorable seeing little brake pads.
Someone who thinks like I do 🤗
Enough to get thrown over the handle bar when engaged abruptly.
Tbh at that point I’m buying new brakes💀
Waste of money but ok
Even new brakes can squeak. It’s good practice to clean rotors and degrease pads before installation, and that’s half of what was done in this video. Doesn’t hurt to surface polish/sand the rotors and pads to remove any rough spots from handling, shipping, manufacture imperfections/poor tolerances.
You should be doing this even with new brakes. It's called maintaince. Nothing is immortal.
You forgot the part where they don't work at all until you break them in again...
that's easy fixed with some fine clay in water, just coat the rotor in a thin coat & the pads bed in instantly. I prefer the yellow clay that we have in some of the hilly parts of Yorkshire, but any of the finer natural boulder clays should do it.
@@AnthonyIlstonJoneswhat?
You mean "bed" them in, there is no break in for brakes.
@@Trox2018You knew exactly what they meant.
@@Trox2018lmao it's the same thing!
They’ll squeak again after 1/2 a ride 😂
LOL i thought at the end of the short they were still going to squeak. I have tried all this stuff and they end up making noise after soon after.... Now I just ride...
I'd try some silglyde for cars and see
@@cataplt I was waiting for it too 😂 missed opportunity
@@cataplt depends on the pads and the level of contamination. My friend's shimano pads cleaned up just fine, my tektro pads didn't get all that much better
@@cataplt Thing is, the pads have to coat there residue over the brake discs to work. There cant be any contamination on the discs of other things. If the brake pads have been coated in...idk mineral oil from the brake system there toast. Other then that follow the steps below.
Go in gear 1
Pedal while braking pretty hard.
You feel the bike isn't really slowing down a lot but it makes a ton of noise.
Keep going.
Let slowly loose of the brake while still in motion every 30 sec or so, for few seconds and break again (to let the disc cool a little).
Go brake on and now you should feel the bike slowing down a little more while still making noise.
Press the break a little less.
Now you should feel it getting stronger and stronger and letting more loose of the brake.
When the noise is pretty much gone. Bike around do this thing above like 3 times between some cycling around and the noise should be gone.
Wow! No stupid music. No long-takes, showing how to remove bolts. Nice clean cuts without (dum) fancy animations. Nice job! 👏
I didn’t know how to change the brake pads on my bike so thank you for this video
So the hack is to clean your brakes... groundbreaking stuff here
Guy also resurfaced the pads and cross-hatched the rotor. It’s a good tip. Takes the glazing off the pads and rotor which is what causes the squeak. I’ve done it on a wet clutch on my race bike when I was having issues with slipping and it cleared that issue right up. Grabs like nobodies business
Didn't you mean... Groundbraking? Yeah my jokes suck
Won't the discs rust now he's scratched them? I get 'tea staining' on smooth metal
man, that's a lot of work. i'll just ride with the squeak.
Thanks to people like you i have a job, most mechanics likewise
@@radekmaj5875и у врачей
Just wait till you see the work you have to put in to properly bed these brakes
@@mikehuang1369 He didn't hear you. He couldn't stop.
@@JB50713 he hit a tree down the hill
The handful of times I've had to resurface my pads, I used a sanding screen so the material could fall away from the pad surface and not be ground back into it.
Doing that eliminated the need to clean and heat the pads in every case.
Your elephant repairing skills are on point.
Через пол часа максимум скрип вернётся. Тут только замена колодок и тщательная очистка диска щеткой со стиральным порошком (в том числе в отверстиях диска), до состояния чистой воды и щетки. Иначе вся грязь из отверстий будет на ваших новых колодках.
Ничего подобного. Второй сезон катаю, все ок.
Exactly 🙄
и это не спасёт, скрип идёт от тормозной жидкости, надо перебирать колипер.
@@chopskates5980 причём тут жидкость в трубке к ротеру и колодкам? 🤦🤷
Господа, вы же в курсе, чем по сути является скрип колодок при контакте с тормозным диском? Причина появления этого звука одинакова как в автомобильных колодках, так и в велосипедных.
Наберитесь терпения, сейчас будет очень нудное повествование...
Контактные поверхности пары колодка-поршень это металл, причем на колодке этот металл имеет эмалевое покрытие, предотвращающее контакт с металлом поршня. При торможении колодка ложится на диск/ротор и при не плотном прилегании к нему начинает вибрировать, что в совокупности с износом(отсутствием) эмали на обратной стороне колодки приводит к микротрению в паре поршень-колодка. Слышимый скрип это результат трения металла о металл и лечится восстановлением термостойкой и износостойкой эмали либо нанесением термостйкой, консистентной смазки на обраную сторону колодки.
Прокаливание и зачистка рабочей повехности колодок, как отчищение диска/ротора, делается для удаления загрязнений, что в свою очередь уменьшает дополнительный износ пары колодка-диск/ротор, что в свою очередь позволяет избежать износа диска/ротора, что позволяет сохранить пятно контакта колодки большим и стабильным, что позволяет избежать появление шумов при торможении.
Всё😊
I fixed this yesterday with a can of brake cleaner! No disassembly needed 😌👌
If you get brake cleaner on the calipers or forks it can remove the paint and damage the protective finish. 30 seconds of work to pull the pads out to clean them. Or better yet just replace squeaking pads.
Thank you. Good, simple and without talking!!
The overuse of the word hack is a crime against humanity
Shimano Hydraulics are extremely easy to rectify if there’s any brake rub. The tough ones are Magura as the disc is often so thick that the tolerance for smooth running is very small, in fact near impossible when the brake pads and discs are both brand new
depends on the brake. BR-4770 and BR-RX400 have almost no clearance in them, so it's nearly impossible to get them to stop rubbing when new. they do get a bit better after being broken in.
Little side-note: don't push the pistons back with al wrench, prefer something softer, like a plastic tirespoon. Shimano uses in some of the calipers ceramic cups! Ceramic cups wil break and will leak.
Just use old breakpads and then a screwdriver or something like that
Thanks, I really need this one now!
best bike asmr i ever seen
NEVER USE TOOLS WITH OUT THE PADS IN ON CERAMIC PISTONS! If you don't have the pads in you will Crack your pistons. Trust me, I cracked 2 of mine that way.
if you can afford calipers with ceramic pistons then you aren't the type of person who is watching a bike hack video lol, just saying.
@@NonLegitNation2 yes lol, those 4 pod xts are a nightmare to work on, as those pistons just break when you look at them... I think even the deores have ceramic if I'm not completely blind... I thought the 4 pod 6120 I have lying around have ceramic, but I'm not completely sure... And those are not really pricey.
And those shitty ceramic pistons even crack with the right tools, even with pads in, without pads and with plastic lever, they always crack... Doesn't matter what you do, you have to press them back in straight, if they go in just a little bit crooked, they are gonna break. Really annoying to get the shards out again, right mate? 😂
@@ironeinar Yeah, really annoying. in my case, I got a set of 8120s for free, so I didn't mind as much, but the shards were everywhere! the hardest part was getting the ceramic dust out of the fluid ports where the mineral oil would normally flow, a good bleed kit and an air compressor got the job done!
@@owenadair8893 yeah thats so annoying, im happy that I dont have to encounter this problem on my personal brakes, because I run Shigura, but my boss in the shop, who serviced hundrets of ceramic pistons still has problems not breaking the pistons while pushing them back in xD
Just a FYI you should always sand against the pad path. Going with will create grooves that could and will groove your pads. Going against will aid in grip and also allow the pad to knock down the high spots over time.
This is a good point! I like to spin the wheel and move the sand paper in and out across the braking surface while it spins, it creates a criss-crossing wave type pattern. This is what we do with vehicle rotors when they've just been cut on a lathe.
Sounds also produces in my power breaks 😂
If you dont have any of these tools, hears what worked for me.
A gas stock, candle or lighter. Hold the brakepads over that heat for about a minute and allow to cool. The heat basically burns away most of the impurities that impregnate the brake pads. After it is cooled down, just lightly sand it off. Most importantly is to clean the disk breaks with some running alcohol to remove the oil from it. I did this once in January this year for a friend and he is still using the same breaks and has no issues to this very day
.
😂😂😂
That will work great as long as you do it after every ride.
El problema de ruido se soluciona limpiando pero también es porque las pastillas están rozando el disco de forma dispareja y se debe centrar correctamente la mordaza.
I love scaring grandpas with squeaky brakes when they block the road
People want their ears to be beaten up by annoying sounds rather than my lovely ringing bike bell lol.
I find most of my brake noise goes away just by wiping down the rotor with some alcohol. I would consider this a level 2 procedure. If you resurface the pads/rotor, you'll also want to make sure the pads are bedded in properly too.
Bro I told my siblings to do some oiling on the chains and he put the oil in the calipers what should I do? Should I change the whole set?
@@IRIS.3111 The rotor can be cleaned off with solvent. For the brake pads, you'll need to remove them from the calipers, then using some pliers to hold them, cook off the contaminants with a propane torch.
@@lihtan thanks bro I will try it
The best hack is to simply smother the disks and pads with grease. It really reduces the squeak.
жиза кстати
@@DJSalih7722F that's a pretty good reply... Because then we know it won't work at all!
This is like the Alt+F4 joke, only even less funny...
Such a big brain method. Best way to care for your brakes is simply making them unusable
@@overtheatlasThe less you use them, the longer they last, so it's a good strategy. Besides using brakes just slows you down.
step 1: own 300 dollars worth of equipment
If you get bearing grease and put a good solid layer on the rotor and pads it really helps with the noise. Loosening the brake cable works as well.
I just leave it so people in front know I am breaking😂
A goose has entered the bike chat
Honk like goose boy! 🤣
Finally somebody who shows that heating the break pads is the way to.
For beginners: apply oil to your disc brakes ✅
En España 5 minutos con la pistola de calor son una fortuna... vale menos un juego de pastillas nuevas.
Es claro que sí
Why is it expensive to use a heat gun?
@@mydearriley Expensive electricity, probably. ?
Acá en Argentina las pastillas de frenos de bicicleta son más caras que las de auto
Брат, приезжай к нам в Россию🙂
A hack i learned at my bike shop- do the same steps but instead of heat gun you spray blake cleaner and carefully light it up so the pad burn nicely.
@David to get all of the cleaner off.
I pass a torch across the pads. Takes 5 seconds. No cleaning solution. No sanding. No fuss. Easy peasy.
Thanks for reminding me i have to do this for my bikes since winters finished 😅
Perfect caliper parallelism to the disc rotor is far more critical for noise and stopping power. If the pads are used and already not the same thickness, then problems will persist.
Or, keep them squeeky, so the rider in front knows they're slowing you up and should let you by before there's a crash!
Valid point. Works for informing the rider behind as well.
Me, a mechanic: "AWW LOOK AT THE TINY BRAKE PADS. SO CUTE 🥹"
This actually works well. I had a customer, that pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.
Another pro tip: adjust your caliper so it doesn't move or bend the rotor when the handle is pressed. That's a big cause for brake noise. Also makes the lever have a more solid engagement feel instead of mush.
I quite like my squeaky brakes now.
I one-hundred % agree with this procedure. The only thing I will be very careful with is using a plastic lever to push the pads apart. I recommend you put the pads back in and use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons back into the caliper. Other than that, this is excellent video advice. And I’m a professional bicycle mechanic for over 40 years.
Yes, it will work good while it is in your service, but when your client will warm up pads while riding , pads will release grease that is hidden inside and noise and weakness will be back. Best way to solve this problem - buy new pads and clean rotor, if you can't do it try to put your old pads in a boiling water for a while.
I like my squeaky brakes. They saved my life more than once when the car behind me wasn't paying attention
I got jumpscared by the high pitch "HEEEEEH" man exhale.
Squeaky brakes brake harder change my mind
Yeah, and I like to polish the calipers really well and go downhill holding the brakes all the way. That way I can easily forgeweld them to the rotor 🎉🎉🎉
I just hold the break for a few seconds and the squeak goes away for a while
When it rains every other day here you just live with the squeak 😂
Who needs a bell when youve got squeeky brakes ?
The idea of having a cotter pin for the pads instead of a screw is... madness.
A car's wheel bearings and brake pads are held in with a 'split pins' with no problems 😊
Yeah. Sure. A company that has been making brakes and most other bike components for decades with thousands of engineers - should learn from a guy on the internet. Actually the pin works fine. It's not doing much - it's not actually holding the pads against the braking force (as you'll notice, none of car brake pads have a hole for either a pin or a screw). The holding is done by caliper body. Some of earlier brakes - for instance, the well-famous Avid Juicy series (3, 5, 7, Carbon) - didn't have a pin or screw at all - relied solely on placement of the pad in the caliper body and the metal spring. One of my bikes has these since 2005 - still work like a treat, even with abusive lack of maintenance.
@@JurisKankalis Cotter pins are a consumable item, they don't last forever. A good screw will last for as long as you take care of it. My bike has pads that are held in with a screw and it works like a charm.
@@lorraineschofield123 what is a castle nut and what is the cotter pin for?
lol the cotterpin is to keep the nut from fully backing off.
it does nothing to hold hubs or bearings.
Rather have a pin than the Shimano flat head screw.
Using isopropyl alcohol and sonic cleaner also works. No other steps exept a bit of sanding is required
Very cool. Im actually looking into carrying 10mm. Love this round. It'll most certainly. Get the job done
Great, now you’ve got reduced braking efficiency until the rotor re-acquires a coating of pad material and the pads wear enough to conform perfectly with the tramlines in the rotor surfaces.
The noise is generated by the leading edge of the pad “grabbing” the disc. The pad then sets up an oscillating motion within the caliper which creates the noise and increases wear rate of the pad and caliper thrust faces.
To avoid or cure it just file a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge of both pads (the edge that a point on the rotor would meet first when travelling forwards).
Then apply a just visible trace of copper grease to the pad backplate surface where it contacts the piston or caliper body, but not to it’s edges.
The chamfer avoids the initial grab that sets off the resonance and the copper grease provides a small measure of damping and isolation medium to change the overall system’s resonant frequency.
This is something that used to be taught to every apprentice mechanic back in the 70’s when disc brakes started to become commonplace on vehicles.
It works, it also gives a much more progressive feel to the braking action, avoiding “grabbiness” on initial application of the brake.
Sometimes the squeak comes from loose bolts.👍
or mis-alignment...
Anyone else notice that the caliper he is working on is the Shimano m355 which is one of the most common caliper for failing and leaking this method is a short term fix as soon as you hear the pads up the oil will draw out of the pad material and the rotor is discolored by the oil it has absorbed and the same thing will happen as the pads they will become contaminated on the surface
As someone who has worked as a bike mechanic for 8 years, I can say this does work but won’t last long. Most of the time the noise doesn’t go unless you clean and burn off the rotor as well and if it does go it will almost always come back after a few kms. Also try a blow torch bro, heatgun won’t get hot enough to burn off the oil residue. New pads are only 5-10 bucks so honestly just replace them if the customer is ok with that
Nah I just like to put WD-40 on mine
Does it works?
@@loviecirilobalo4517 no!!! Wd-40 Is oil🤦🏼♂️
@@zvebiNmob1zer666_ nope that not oil
@@zvebiNmob1zer666_ that water displacement
@@zvebiNmob1zer666_ clean using rotor cleaner
They sure won't squeak any more after you crack your ceramic pistons with that wrench.
If they crack that easily, this stuff is garbage.
@@ThisTimeTheWorld That's the nature of ceramic pistons. Has nothing to do with quality.
@@michaelmichaelagnew8503 weak stuff
@@ThisTimeTheWorldspot isn't meant to be shoved on
Poke a hole in a radiator and see how weak something can be
Step 1 take the brake pads out and sand them down a bit.
Step 2 Spray Silca Brake and drivetran cleaner on them let them sit for 2 minutes.
Step 3 spray solca Break and drivetrain cleaner on the diskbreak and let it sit for 2 minutes
Step 4 hose the pads and the disc down.
Step 5 let the disc dry by itself and put the pads back in the break.
Step 6 once the disk is dry put wheel back in and to a qucick spin break once to get rit of all the resedue water
Step 7 break again and there you go no more squeaky breaks
And never wipe your disks down unless it a brand new cloth you never know what kind of oils are on those things
I have brakes that won't quit howling unless, probably, I replace the pads. At least I don't need a horn 😂
Organic or metallic pads contaminated with grease are rarely able to be fixed. Even with acetone and sanding, the contaminant has likely soaked throughout the whole thing and the problem will reoccur after some more wear. Don’t expect this to work all the time. If you attempt, use tons of acetone and let them soak for a long time, multiple times.
Agree. They might stop squealing for maybe 10 minutes of the next bike ride.
Проще сразу новые колодки поставить, желательно Шимано, они не шумят
если ты едешь по земле скрипеть они будут в любом случае, ибо пыль в зазоре неизбежна.
Bike guy vs average car guy
U had a free horn now u just got brakes
Just grind the edges from the pads and you are good to go. And never do something like that to the disks
А теперь выбрось их на помойку и купи новые.
А мне нравится , скрипят только когда пережимаешь. Я их использую как клаксон😄
My favourite hack is to set the pads on fire to burn off any oils. Works a treat.
Very helpful Thanks brother 🎉🎉🎉
The solution for me was one I wasn't expecting at all. I performed a brake bleed and the squeal from my front rotor disappeared. I'd tried all the typical solutions before and had given up on the issue. However I performed the brake bleed and the noise went away.
My theory is that air in the line was preventing my brake pads from making contact as hard as they should which is now no longer the case.
Perhaps the air allowed the pad and fluid to oscillate.. just spitballing
@dielaughing73 yes. Considering you can't compress water
Well it doesn't squeeze much. It can apply lots of force without changing volume
I find olive oil really helps to stop squeaks. Brakes don't work so good, but hey.... 😂
This is OK if you are on a roadside and if there is no bike shop or your own shed in sight. But this is at best a temporary fix. If your brakes are squeaky, there is a 90% chance you have gotten oil on your brake components. That has to have come from somewhere. And that somewhere likely is a leak in the system. If that is not resolved, the squeaking will be back in a day or two. It has happened to me. Had the squealing brake. Replaced brake pads and rotor on a Friday. Kept everything religiously clean. Test drive with no issues. Put 20 miles on the bike Saturday. Still no issues. Left bike in garage on Sunday. Monday morning the squeal was back. Turns out the bleed screw was ever so slightly loose and and oil seeped out veeeery slowly (we are talking literally a few drops) and and all over the pads. That’s why everything was OK for a couple days. And yes, I had successfully bled the brake before and was overcautious with the bleed screw as I did not want to overtighten it and bust the threads.
that brake sounded like a train horn😂
"replace the break pads " 😂
Aint lying. Shimano pads are crap. You need another brand and the squeek will go away. Shimanos have a poor compound that sucks up moisture
I just spray a little WD on it. Silence. Almost like they aren't there
I did that on my rim brakes when i was like 13. As you say, like they weren't there. Oh, did i mention I lived on top of a very steep hill?
lol
first 2 seconds:
Me: "WAS THAT AN AIR HORN"?
What you call "hacks" I call "normal maintenance" -- except I wash the parts with soap and water.
wear respirator. brake pads still often contain asbestos in different regions
all Shimano brake pads are Japan and EU legal, so probably asbestos free.
@@AlexandarHullRichter truth
I just use marine grease on my rotors, it even works on my truck!
I try this and It works… .Thank you👍
If you cover your brake pads with grease, they rub less and don’t wear out 👍
I use copper grease on the back of the pads. Works perfectly every time.
This isn't a hack.
It's basic maintenance.