Awesome video! Great quality work on the replacement of that door. I like that the video is short but still show all the main steps, it’s concise, clear and well explained.
One of the best videos I have seen on replacing a junky old patio sliding door with a new one. He shows several key steps and everything I saw made good sense. The part about the flashing was of interest but the only thing I was not sure about was the need for aluminum flashing in addition to the other seal flashing unless it is a precaution in case the rubber seal type flashing rots out from sun baking and ozone...? Does the aluminum flashing get covered up by the frame of the door so you dont have to paint it? Last time I painted aluminum the pant would not stick for nothing...just curious. I must also say it was good to see him replace the whole door as my frame was pretty much rotted out from moisture damage from the previous owner not keeping it painted.
The aluminum flashing is to divert water that comes past the plastic lip the new frame has. That plastic lip is to attach the frame to the house but offers no protection to the house beyond the edge. The aluminum flashing protects the wood that the door frame rests on. Kind of like how siding hangs a bit over the foundation at the bottom to protect the footer for the house.
@@TheMaintenanceMan any chance to get a cool exploded view that shows how everything fits up? that would be icing on the cake and make this the best video EVER on installing patio sliding doors. :) I was not able to see the detail on some of the work that would be better explained with an exploded view drawing?
When calking the bottom I would use Silicon and good amounts of it not just the loop shown. Lay it on thick and I would not use construction adhesive in this water born area.
The tools required vs tools useful is strictly dependent on your home. Replacing a door with modern construction as the foundation is going to be far easier to remove than something from the era built in the video. The essentials in my opinion are an Electric drill, skill saw, sawzall, flat bar, hammer, pencil.
d have been nice to see a check from the inside, specifically the centre piece where there is strip of material on both doors to lock. should they be visible when door is shut? should they touch each other behind the centre? should they be at each side of the centre piece?
I’m not sure what center strip you are referring to. The solid panel is stationary and the slider locks at the door jam on the side. Can you be a bit more clear on what center piece you are describing?
Few questions after seeing this video vs how home depot installers did mine. 1. They did not use aluminum flashing on the bottom for the water to drip out of. Instead, placed the new frame directly on the pre-existing floorboard. Is this an issue? 2. The new door was intended as a direct replacement for the same dimensions. They did not use new wood to frame out. Instead, they used the existing wood frames. Small pieces of the prior wood interior came off when they were doing the uninstallation of the old sliding patio. Is it an issue they did not do a new wood to frame out? 3. They did not caulk all around the new frame. Instead, caulked only the bottom frame and screwed around the new frame. Is this an issue? 4. After the frame and doors were fitted, there was still an opening gap, especially from the top of the frame to the outside. They did not use the expandable foam sealer (which I paid for) and instead only caulked around the frame.
Sounds about right. If I remember correctly Home Depot installers are paid by the job so they just want to get in and out as quickly as possible. I’ve heard many stories of them cutting corners on installs. If you had a vinyl door installed it may have issues down the road because of the framing situation you have described. As far as the gap at the top, caulking will only be enough until it cracks then it will let outside air in. Let me know if you have more questions.
You mind if I ask how much you paid for yours to get done? I'm selling my house and need the sliding door replaced but don't know if I have the time or patience to do it myself.
What if there aren’t screws in the frame? I’m not seeing any when I look at my door, but it’s definitely secure. Would some doors be glued in, or perhaps panels need to be removed to uncover the screws? Thanks!
Yes. As the new one was installed with screws on a fin around the perimeter the old one may have been a similar design. Thanks for your question. Let me know if you have any more. Have a great weekend.
There doesn't have to be any kind of flashing/seal around the side and top edges to keep water out? Wouldn't there normally be some kind of moisture barrier or something the same as when installing windows?
On new construction you would be correct. This is a replacement demonstration. The house was built in the 40’s there was no vapor barrier anywhere on the home. The extra step though beneficial would require complete removal of the siding and wrapping the entire house before it becomes effective. That’s not this kind of replacement. That’s more of a complete outdoor home remodel scenario. Thanks for the question.
I missed that part ,,my bad ,,I was looking for a video to send my nephew but this one won't do . I most likely will have to help him so if I do I will post a vid,, Like I said removal is revers of install, if flange is exposed great just pull the nails, if not either cut the siding back to expose flange or if doors measure the same run a sawzall between flange and door frame on top and sides ,rack it back and forth from top until it comes free.,,you will have to remove new flange from new door and secure inside with screws ,re-caulk siding and your done ,,or run your saw the 1 1/2 side of fence along door Fram and cut all around exposing flange ,install new door and trim with choice of material. there you go !!
I've got huge old barn doors on my garage, I'm looking to get sliding doors on it thugh, would I need to add more bricks as the French doors are much smaller or can it just be done with a good enough timber frame?
I’m assuming your garage is currently brick so adding more to fill the difference between door sizes is structurally best but a timber frame, if done correctly, would not be an issue.
Was this your first sliding door replacement or had you done it before? Really bad wind busted my old door yesterday and now I am looking at having someone do it, or do it myself. I am a fitter/welder so I have some knowledge of how to do things, I just dont want it to be a pain in the ass.
You’re not a pain. It’s not difficult. Just don’t expect it to go like clockwork. Just keep in mind that most sliding glass door panels can just be lifted up and the bottom swung out into the room to remove the panel. The glass is not difficult to replace. Since you’re skilled at welding I’m sure you’re a natural problem solver. Replacing the entire door and frame is a bit over kill if it’s just the glass busted.
I saw in a comment that someone mentioned you didn’t screw the frame of the new door, on the sides through shims into the studs. Neither did I see you screw the too of the frame into the header. Is this true, or was it simply not shown in the video?
I assure you it was screwed into the frame. I use this door every day multiple times a day and I fully trust it’s installation because it’s my home. Some of the tidbits of filming do not represent the completeness of any given project. I do my best to explain any modifications I may have made off camera but not every nuance is captured on film. Please understand the total video footage was over 9 hours long before editing. I had to cut it down.
You’d have to call local contractors and have a bid for an installation estimate. Otherwise the range of pricing for sliding doors is quite large. Do you install when your stuff definitely saves money but I can’t just give you a price. There are just too many different variables.
I’m not quite sure what you’re referring to. I used staples on the flashing at the bottom, screws to install the door, and finishing nails for the trim. If you could be a bit more specific with your question I’d be happy to accommodate.
How much do you charge to complete a job like this? i.e. labor cost, plus materials not included with door, such as shims or special screws. I ask this because I have the feeling there are many rip offs out here. Also, I am asking this question relative to the southeast or Carolinas. Thank you so much! I enjoyed the video.
You are correct, there are many companies that capitalize on incidentals. Doing the installation yourself allows for total control of the entire process. That’s why I make these videos. Unfortunately I am not able to give you incidental prices for the southeast. Thanks for your question though.
Here in South Mississippi The box stores like Home Depot just raised their "starting price for an install" . ie on the sliding door you buy from them. It was 489 for 2022 and just went to 648? Sept 1st as their starting price. I Have not used them yet. An inquire commands a person to inspect where the door is going and measure the opening. Then one of the 3 contractors they use gets to do the job. Dates to do the job are like 3 weeks out or more. Without seeing the details of what is required no contractor if wise is going to price a job; unless sky high to cover trouble areas. The Nation Home Depot site gives estimate prices by region. Southern goes from Texas to Virginia and says patio door installs are 480 to 920. Houses here are still being built like mad and there are shortages of workers.
Yes it is. That was not the route taken in this specific video. Another option is to have the panes of glass replaced and keep even the frames of the original door. Many options definitely. Thanks for the comment and extra perspective.
You could. I didn’t because it’s not necessary to be pressure treated after everything is sealed correctly. I only used flashing instead of flashing tape because it’s a high traffic area.
It’s smaller because the standard sizes manufactured today are smaller than the opening originally made in 1944. A custom one could be ordered to fit but that just drives the cost far beyond reasonable means.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Glad I found this video. I'm replacing my french doors with a patio sliding doors and have a similar issue. The rough opening is little bigger than today's standard size. My rough opening is 65" wide, a little wider than the normal 60". I'll have to use some 2X4s to fill the gap. Great video.
Do you need just one other guy? Or do you need 2 to do the whole thing? Because this is not a 1 person job. Cause if you just need one other guy to come over and help you, I’d say a six pack of their preferred brand ought to do it
I just placed my door in today and when I was all done I noticed I was missing a head fixed panel? That's what the diagram called it any way. It's supposed to go into one of the doors at the top.....is it OK that I don't have it or how can I get that piece?
I would definitely reach out to the store or company you ordered the door from or where you picked it up and let them know the essential parts that are missing. If they steer you toward the manufacturer then pursue what they suggest. Let me know if you need help. That’s what I’m here for.
Don't install your door the way he did it. He didn't use flashing around the perimeter and didn't screw through the frame of the door into the wall framing. This door will certainly come loose and leak in the future.
If I may ask, what about the bottom do you have questions about that you would need to see? I tried to show everything in the process the best I could. What about the bottom isn’t shown in the video?
Has everyone ever heard of the sliding door frame sinking into the concrete slab? My floor tiler is trying to tell me this rather than take accountability for his shitty tiling.
I’ve seen the slab sink but never the frame “sink into the slab”...it’s concrete. When a slab sinks or cracks it gets uneven. You can see it and there are typically several other issues caused by the shift or crack in the slab. I’ve never heard of a frame sinking into hard concrete. Sounds shady. Maybe that’s just how your tile guy worded it and it’s a legit issue, he just has a hard time articulating it.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Thanks for your reply, it was exactly what i suspected. The floor tiler has been ordered by the Building Commission here in Australia to fix it and his response was the frame sunk LOL. So yes he is most definitely shady.
I don't think you have a glazing license. You pulled the original metal frame with out new flashing paper around the door...you only flashed the bottom? You are supposed to apply 6" of new flashing paper around the entire perimeter of the door. Your finish work is nice but that's not the way your are supposed to install new construction nail fin doors.
Good thing I said a pretty clear disclaimer at the beginning of the video and reiterated multiple times throughout. Thanks for the tip on what should have been done.
not a good video ,,the door has nailing fin but I cant see if it was exposed or not after pulling off trim,,removal is the same as install but in reverse ,,this looks like amateur hour
Hence, why I made sure to mention I’m not a professional and this was just one way. It appears you missed that. Or chose to ignore it. Please post the link to your video of doing it correctly so that everyone can see it done your way.
This is how, How-to-videos, are done! Great job!
Awesome video! Great quality work on the replacement of that door. I like that the video is short but still show all the main steps, it’s concise, clear and well explained.
This video was WAY better than the actual Jeld Wen video. Thanks so much!
Thanks for making a straighforward DIY video this was good knowledge shared!
Very down to Earth, no nonsense video.
Thanks
This is a very good show and we love it !
This video is massively helpful.
Thanks for the informative video
I got a ton of info in 6 minutes, can't beat that bud.
Great video thanks !
Great Job!
Great video.
Thanks for the compliment! So nice to hear positive feedback.
I'm gonna watch this a few times This is a great skill
Thanks for the compliment
Totally enjoyed your video
Thanks for the feedback
Thank you!👍
Good job, good help...
Thanks I learned a lot
Let me know if you have any questions. Have a great weekend.
That was informative
Thanks for sharing
good one!
Thanks for the video
One of the best videos I have seen on replacing a junky old patio sliding door with a new one. He shows several key steps and everything I saw made good sense. The part about the flashing was of interest but the only thing I was not sure about was the need for aluminum flashing in addition to the other seal flashing unless it is a precaution in case the rubber seal type flashing rots out from sun baking and ozone...? Does the aluminum flashing get covered up by the frame of the door so you dont have to paint it? Last time I painted aluminum the pant would not stick for nothing...just curious. I must also say it was good to see him replace the whole door as my frame was pretty much rotted out from moisture damage from the previous owner not keeping it painted.
The aluminum flashing is to divert water that comes past the plastic lip the new frame has. That plastic lip is to attach the frame to the house but offers no protection to the house beyond the edge. The aluminum flashing protects the wood that the door frame rests on. Kind of like how siding hangs a bit over the foundation at the bottom to protect the footer for the house.
@@TheMaintenanceMan any chance to get a cool exploded view that shows how everything fits up? that would be icing on the cake and make this the best video EVER on installing patio sliding doors. :) I was not able to see the detail on some of the work that would be better explained with an exploded view drawing?
Unfortunately I don’t have an exploded diagram and adding it to an already uploaded video post production is not in my wheelhouse. Sorry.
Thank you, I'm pretty sure I can replace my old slider now 😀
Good step by step video, glad to see father and son working on home projects.
Heads up! It's whether not weather. Great video!
Edir Nevarez I bet you’re a blast at parties.
hrcjoet I bet you have never come up with an original thought on your own
@@dustinpalmer5443awww a simple spelling correction got u weeping lol
Thanks good job
Top trim... looks well to be nice look at it's pattern and the rest of the door.. now ask yourself if it looks good.
When calking the bottom I would use Silicon and good amounts of it not just the loop shown. Lay it on thick and I would not use construction adhesive in this water born area.
I would have liked to see the outside being finished where the door meets siding
Thanks!
So what tools would you say are necessary for this project vs tools that would just be useful to have on hand
The tools required vs tools useful is strictly dependent on your home. Replacing a door with modern construction as the foundation is going to be far easier to remove than something from the era built in the video. The essentials in my opinion are an Electric drill, skill saw, sawzall, flat bar, hammer, pencil.
How it looks in out side when is done?
d have been nice to see a check from the inside, specifically the centre piece where there is strip of material on both doors to lock. should they be visible when door is shut? should they touch each other behind the centre? should they be at each side of the centre piece?
I’m not sure what center strip you are referring to. The solid panel is stationary and the slider locks at the door jam on the side. Can you be a bit more clear on what center piece you are describing?
I like how one pain just magically disappeared
Few questions after seeing this video vs how home depot installers did mine.
1. They did not use aluminum flashing on the bottom for the water to drip out of. Instead, placed the new frame directly on the pre-existing floorboard. Is this an issue?
2. The new door was intended as a direct replacement for the same dimensions. They did not use new wood to frame out. Instead, they used the existing wood frames. Small pieces of the prior wood interior came off when they were doing the uninstallation of the old sliding patio. Is it an issue they did not do a new wood to frame out?
3. They did not caulk all around the new frame. Instead, caulked only the bottom frame and screwed around the new frame. Is this an issue?
4. After the frame and doors were fitted, there was still an opening gap, especially from the top of the frame to the outside. They did not use the expandable foam sealer (which I paid for) and instead only caulked around the frame.
Sounds about right. If I remember correctly Home Depot installers are paid by the job so they just want to get in and out as quickly as possible. I’ve heard many stories of them cutting corners on installs. If you had a vinyl door installed it may have issues down the road because of the framing situation you have described. As far as the gap at the top, caulking will only be enough until it cracks then it will let outside air in. Let me know if you have more questions.
You mind if I ask how much you paid for yours to get done? I'm selling my house and need the sliding door replaced but don't know if I have the time or patience to do it myself.
Would you shim the door if the opening isn't square, or would you stick the shims behind the framing?
Shimming the opening is more stable in the long run but if the only option is to shim the frame it is standard procedure for the installation.
What if there aren’t screws in the frame? I’m not seeing any when I look at my door, but it’s definitely secure. Would some doors be glued in, or perhaps panels need to be removed to uncover the screws? Thanks!
Yes. As the new one was installed with screws on a fin around the perimeter the old one may have been a similar design. Thanks for your question. Let me know if you have any more. Have a great weekend.
There doesn't have to be any kind of flashing/seal around the side and top edges to keep water out? Wouldn't there normally be some kind of moisture barrier or something the same as when installing windows?
On new construction you would be correct. This is a replacement demonstration. The house was built in the 40’s there was no vapor barrier anywhere on the home. The extra step though beneficial would require complete removal of the siding and wrapping the entire house before it becomes effective. That’s not this kind of replacement. That’s more of a complete outdoor home remodel scenario. Thanks for the question.
@@TheMaintenanceMan thanks for the info!
I broke my grandparents sliding door years ago and now that I'm working I'm going to buy them and hopefully install a new one for them
I missed that part ,,my bad ,,I was looking for a video to send my nephew but this one won't do . I most likely will have to help him so if I do I will post a vid,, Like I said removal is revers of install, if flange is exposed great just pull the nails, if not either cut the siding back to expose flange or if doors measure the same run a sawzall between flange and door frame on top and sides ,rack it back and forth from top until it comes free.,,you will have to remove new flange from new door and secure inside with screws ,re-caulk siding and your done ,,or run your saw the 1 1/2 side of fence along door Fram and cut all around exposing flange ,install new door and trim with choice of material.
there you go !!
I've got huge old barn doors on my garage, I'm looking to get sliding doors on it thugh, would I need to add more bricks as the French doors are much smaller or can it just be done with a good enough timber frame?
I’m assuming your garage is currently brick so adding more to fill the difference between door sizes is structurally best but a timber frame, if done correctly, would not be an issue.
Does the flashing hang over siding or tuck behind it?
It tucked behind it.
Was this your first sliding door replacement or had you done it before? Really bad wind busted my old door yesterday and now I am looking at having someone do it, or do it myself. I am a fitter/welder so I have some knowledge of how to do things, I just dont want it to be a pain in the ass.
You’re not a pain. It’s not difficult. Just don’t expect it to go like clockwork. Just keep in mind that most sliding glass door panels can just be lifted up and the bottom swung out into the room to remove the panel. The glass is not difficult to replace. Since you’re skilled at welding I’m sure you’re a natural problem solver. Replacing the entire door and frame is a bit over kill if it’s just the glass busted.
Thanks
I saw in a comment that someone mentioned you didn’t screw the frame of the new door, on the sides through shims into the studs. Neither did I see you screw the too of the frame into the header. Is this true, or was it simply not shown in the video?
I assure you it was screwed into the frame. I use this door every day multiple times a day and I fully trust it’s installation because it’s my home. Some of the tidbits of filming do not represent the completeness of any given project. I do my best to explain any modifications I may have made off camera but not every nuance is captured on film. Please understand the total video footage was over 9 hours long before editing. I had to cut it down.
Ask The Maintenance Man, thanks for the prompt reply!
How much usually cost to replace a sliding door
You’d have to call local contractors and have a bid for an installation estimate. Otherwise the range of pricing for sliding doors is quite large. Do you install when your stuff definitely saves money but I can’t just give you a price. There are just too many different variables.
Forgive my naivety...what kind of screws & caulk did you use? I'm going to be replacing my slider next week...
The caulk was DAP Windows and door. The screws were just common wood screws. Nothing special.,
Were you get the door??? And how much it cost ?
The door was bought from Home Depot. I did not purchase it so I am unaware of the price.
What kind of tack nails did u use??
I’m not quite sure what you’re referring to. I used staples on the flashing at the bottom, screws to install the door, and finishing nails for the trim. If you could be a bit more specific with your question I’d be happy to accommodate.
How much do you charge to complete a job like this? i.e. labor cost, plus materials not included with door, such as shims or special screws. I ask this because I have the feeling there are many rip offs out here. Also, I am asking this question relative to the southeast or Carolinas. Thank you so much! I enjoyed the video.
You are correct, there are many companies that capitalize on incidentals. Doing the installation yourself allows for total control of the entire process. That’s why I make these videos. Unfortunately I am not able to give you incidental prices for the southeast. Thanks for your question though.
Here in South Mississippi The box stores like Home Depot just raised their "starting price for an install" . ie on the sliding door you buy from them. It was 489 for 2022 and just went to 648? Sept 1st as their starting price. I Have not used them yet.
An inquire commands a person to inspect where the door is going and measure the opening. Then one of the 3 contractors they use gets to do the job. Dates to do the job are like 3 weeks out or more.
Without seeing the details of what is required no contractor if wise is going to price a job; unless sky high to cover trouble areas.
The Nation Home Depot site gives estimate prices by region. Southern goes from Texas to Virginia and says patio door installs are 480 to 920.
Houses here are still being built like mad and there are shortages of workers.
We were quoted 6,500 labor from Home Depot for 3 door installs in Oregon. Decided to do the labor myself. Ripoff.
How long was the project? one day to install?
Yes one day to install. The trim work was done the next day.
Had you installed a door like this before?
I have installed sliding glass doors before this video, yes.
How many hours does this take?
This installation took a day and a half. Unfortunately I did not count the hours. Hope that helps. Thanks for your question.
Is it possible to just change both panels and not the frame..
Yes it is. That was not the route taken in this specific video. Another option is to have the panes of glass replaced and keep even the frames of the original door. Many options definitely. Thanks for the comment and extra perspective.
Great video very helpful ....
I have a 70x80 1980's sliding door which they don't make anymore(or so I'm told). How would I install a 72x80 new one?
Unfortunately, you will need to reframe your existing doorway. That is not covered in this video. Sorry.
Why wouldn't you use pressure treated for frame and use flashing tape on bottom?
You could. I didn’t because it’s not necessary to be pressure treated after everything is sealed correctly. I only used flashing instead of flashing tape because it’s a high traffic area.
how many hours for this job?
That job was 14 hours split between two days. The door was in place and functioning by the 6th hour.
Does this mean you had to get a smaller sliding door because you put up the 2 by 4’s
It’s smaller because the standard sizes manufactured today are smaller than the opening originally made in 1944. A custom one could be ordered to fit but that just drives the cost far beyond reasonable means.
I was thinking the same thing
@@TheMaintenanceMan Glad I found this video. I'm replacing my french doors with a patio sliding doors and have a similar issue. The rough opening is little bigger than today's standard size. My rough opening is 65" wide, a little wider than the normal 60". I'll have to use some 2X4s to fill the gap. Great video.
Glad to hear you liked it. Thanks for sharing your story. I love to hear that kind of thing. Have a great day.
What would you charge someone to do that job minus materials?
I have no idea. I’m sure there’s a way to get a free quote in your area. Sorry but I don’t have any more info.
Do you need just one other guy? Or do you need 2 to do the whole thing? Because this is not a 1 person job. Cause if you just need one other guy to come over and help you, I’d say a six pack of their preferred brand ought to do it
11jerans come help I’ll buy you a case!
I just placed my door in today and when I was all done I noticed I was missing a head fixed panel? That's what the diagram called it any way. It's supposed to go into one of the doors at the top.....is it OK that I don't have it or how can I get that piece?
I would definitely reach out to the store or company you ordered the door from or where you picked it up and let them know the essential parts that are missing. If they steer you toward the manufacturer then pursue what they suggest. Let me know if you need help. That’s what I’m here for.
@@TheMaintenanceMan thank you we got it all worked out
Thank you, how would I replace a slider with a door 😮
As long as you replace the frame with it , it will be a very similar installation.
what a handsome daddy!!!!
Why didn’t you put a metal flashing on the bottom?
How much was that same size door
That door was discounted. I’m not sure the original cost. Why do you ask?
@@TheMaintenanceManwhy do u think? Is it unnatural to gauge the cost of a project we might do?
Warn us at 2:20 my ear drums started bleeding.
I give u something more than a like 🤗
You need to use a sill pan under the door with a proper water damn
I didn't notice a header above the door ??
*whether lol
Out off this whole video, that's what you caught....
First thing I noticed.
@@warrenwyatt8752 me too but the quality of that lesson blew away the minor grammar glitch
@@CJ_Figyawww ur weeping cause someone corrected ur daddy
@@chuck8501spelling glitch, nonchamp- correct that
Looks so easy but still don’t think I can do it ja
Rip headphone users at 2:20
Didn’t show putting in the door or if it needs shims for wood to breath
Whether not weather
Corner to corner huh..........yeah who needs a level.
I am absolutely sure I mentioned using a level on the string.
*whether
Wether*
Good 0:00/6;31
Hate inch system
Don't install your door the way he did it. He didn't use flashing around the perimeter and didn't screw through the frame of the door into the wall framing. This door will certainly come loose and leak in the future.
He did he just forwarded past every screw. And showed the flashing
50 seconds into this and you are already measuring wrong ,, the R.O is the same as door 72 inch ,,making door 71.5,, not 73
Show bottom
If I may ask, what about the bottom do you have questions about that you would need to see? I tried to show everything in the process the best I could. What about the bottom isn’t shown in the video?
Has everyone ever heard of the sliding door frame sinking into the concrete slab? My floor tiler is trying to tell me this rather than take accountability for his shitty tiling.
I’ve seen the slab sink but never the frame “sink into the slab”...it’s concrete. When a slab sinks or cracks it gets uneven. You can see it and there are typically several other issues caused by the shift or crack in the slab. I’ve never heard of a frame sinking into hard concrete. Sounds shady. Maybe that’s just how your tile guy worded it and it’s a legit issue, he just has a hard time articulating it.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Thanks for your reply, it was exactly what i suspected. The floor tiler has been ordered by the Building Commission here in Australia to fix it and his response was the frame sunk LOL. So yes he is most definitely shady.
I don't think you have a glazing license. You pulled the original metal frame with out new flashing paper around the door...you only flashed the bottom? You are supposed to apply 6" of new flashing paper around the entire perimeter of the door. Your finish work is nice but that's not the way your are supposed to install new construction nail fin doors.
Good thing I said a pretty clear disclaimer at the beginning of the video and reiterated multiple times throughout. Thanks for the tip on what should have been done.
He never screwed the door to the framing either. That thin flange on the outside will eventually tear.
Bad quality door. Hopefully free for this video..... cheap glass etc
not a good video ,,the door has nailing fin but I cant see if it was exposed or not after pulling off trim,,removal is the same as install but in reverse ,,this looks like amateur hour
Hence, why I made sure to mention I’m not a professional and this was just one way. It appears you missed that. Or chose to ignore it. Please post the link to your video of doing it correctly so that everyone can see it done your way.