Bench Test Distributor and Coil
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Follow on from the engine stall video.
• Landcruiser 45 2F Stal...
I suspected the Coil from my FJ45 Troop Carrier to be faulty so I figured out how to test it on the bench.
Great video!
In my experience, the best (easiest) way to get a coil hot, is to connect the primary circuit directly to the battery, with nothing else in the circuit. (It simulates what it would be like if the distributor stopped at in a position that would leave the points closed)
Thanks for your reply. I’m not sure if I mentioned in the video that this was out of my 45 series Toyota Land Cruiser.
I was trying to repeat the problem I was seeing in the car and see what would happen on the bench.
Car stalled after only a few minutes. I figured out that a mechanic had removed the resistor when he upgraded the distributor from points to electronic.
I ended up adding a ballast resistor back into the circuit and I have not managed to destroy another coil since.
I have always wondered why you aren’t supposed to leave the key on without the engine running.
I’m guessing what you have described is the crux of the problem. Great info,
Very interesting.
Very helpful video thank you
Your welcome, thanks for letting me know
wow pretty ingenious.
Thanks :). I had fun doing it. I didn’t even zap myself.
I was trying to prove a fault with my vehicle that I couldn’t actually repeat.
No trouble repeating it on the car but that video only received 63 views.
ruclips.net/video/Yyzgtp-HA2A/видео.html
The problem turned out to be the coil probably caused by a missing ballast resistor. (Now replaced)
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! I have seen people rotate it by hand. Why do you need a drill for the test?
Edit: I skipped the part when you rotated it by hand 😂Sorry..
Another question while we're at it.. Does the same test apply to HEI setups?
If I remember correctly that distributor doesn’t have points. Does that make it HEI?
I was trying to diagnose a bad coil but couldn’t get it to fail. It was fun making all the sparks🤠
The coil did fail on the car as I changed only that and the problem was solved. The cause was the distributor needed a ballast resistor and it had been removed. Replaced that and been good ever since. I did another video about that around the same time.
@@DavoShed I am not an expert. Just wanted to test a GM HEI ignition module that I have but I don't know how. That same module, sometimes, is inside the distributor as i have seen in videos. Mine is outside it, attached to a distributor through wires. The distributor is a non-contact from the inside. I think it used a magnet or something. Again, not an expert so excuse my lack of terms or knowledge.. Thank you for replying, it was really fun watching them sparks 😀
What if your distributor only has a Positive wire? My Honda S600 only has the Positive wire & no Negative wire!
Off the top of my head the negative is usually the housing of the distributor. That is if the negative cable of your battery is connected to the frame of the vehicle. Some older cars were positive ground. Check out your battery to see where the cables go.
I’d have to rewatch my video to see what I did as it was a few years ago now.
I just played the video again and I see my distributor does indeed have a negative wire.
So all I can suggest is you do more research on exactly how your distributor is meant to be connected.
Good luck, it’s likely to be grounded along with everything else. Let’s face it there has to be a negative in there somewhere 🤠
How much voltage produce by gnition coil to produce spark
About 40,000 volts according to this page
hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/magnetic/ignition.html
I just googled it 🤠
You need to add heat and 14 volts like in engine compartment
Interesting suggestion.
On the engine the voltage is restricted to about 8v with a ballast resistor or at least it should be for this coil.
I did another video before this on trying to determine what the problem was while on the vehicle
ruclips.net/video/Yyzgtp-HA2A/видео.html
The problem turned out to be the coil and the lack of a resistor. This is what fried the coil (over voltage).
Here I’m trying to prove the coil is faulty but could not.
The car would only run for a couple of minutes before it stalled so no real heat in the engine bay.
Since I replaced the coil and added the correct resistor I have not had any more problems.
Thanks for commenting
My friend what is the contact breaker
I’m not sure I understand your question?
For the problem I’m trying to diagnose see the video link card at the beginning of this video.
I removed the suspect coil from the car and I’m testing it here on the bench. I could not reproduce the problem but I thought it was still worth sharing.
I’m using a modern breakerless distributor here on the bench where the one on the car has breaker points.
Some weeks later I determined the problem to be caused by the lack of a ballast resistor. This cuts the voltage on the + wire going to the coil down to something like 8 volts.
If the coil meant for 8 volts is used with 12 volts for any length of time it will fail.