Thanks for all the time and effort you've put into this video to help us out. Lots of bonus knowledge other than just measuring resistance. You're very clear and thorough with your explanations. Keep up the great work and Thanks Again!
Great video, presenter is well spoken and discusses enough detail, with care and clarity, to help a larger audience, i.e. with a wide range of background knowledge. A person who had never owned a multimeter/tester could rely on this video to guide them in testing an ignition coil with one. The camera technique is very good for teaching . Run time of the video is fine. To have a nearby friend/neighbor like this presenter would be darned good luck for anyone!
Greetings...Harold Hansen.............Thanks kindly, for Your "super comment", and for watching too............Well, I usually record my Videos, while having the video camera "held stationary/mounted securely", and also, "zoomed-in" reasonably well, so the audience, will (hopefully) be seeing, what-ever-it-might-be, at that particular time, with some clarity, while also, not looking, like I'm trying to film a horror movie (with that good ole camera "shake", and, Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, that "shake-in" gets worse, the more, that the camera lens, zooms-in as well, when "hand-held"...!!!...lol)...........Yes indeed, back when, I made this particular video, I thought it would be a good idea, to show folks, the, shall we say, "basics", as it applies to, how, Ohms (resistance) readings, relate to those, oh-so-many-turns of wire, that make up, each of those, usually two, individual coils, that are usually contained with-in, a given (automotive, type of) ignition coil (as in, the primary coil, and the secondary coil of wire)............Most of the "factory/stock" ignition coils, that I've replaced over the years, usually, "did not", have any "ohms/resistance" specifications, printed on the ignition coil, or, on its shipping box/packaging as well.............If lucky though, those specifications could be found, printed in a factory service manual, other-wise, a person had to have faith, that, the so-called, ignition coil's "part number", actually was, the "correct one", for that "Exact" vehicle and ignition system/circuit in question, or, if not, the result could be, a weak spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, or might even end up, having some serious & expensive (to fix), damage...!!!...and I hope not...........I guess, that, I'm not so much, a part-of, the, shall we say, "disposable society", as in, if it's "broke", just get rid of "it", and buy a new one, but rather, I like the challenge, of, fixing/adapting/making a home-made part, that will hopefully, get, what-ever-"it"-is (that's "malfunctioning"), up & running, reasonably well once again (keeping fingers crossed....lol)............In closing, here's something, that happened a number of years ago............I got a phone call, from a Friend, that just took his truck, into, one of those..."Can do it Quick"...automotive tune-up shops, and he was sayin', that his truck "Ran Worse"..."After"...they, or who-ever, worked on it...!!!...Yikes...!!!...so, I told him, to bring his truck over to my house.............When he arrived, it sure didn't take very long at all, as to what the problem was, after, I opened-up, the hood of his truck..............Well, it appears that, Mr. (so called) Fast tune-up Guy, "Did Not" tighten up, the Distributor's, hold-down clamp/bracket..."Bolt"...as, I could turn that Distributor, very easily, with my hand, and the ignition timing, probably, wasn't even in the ball-park, b-cuz of that...!!!.............So, I stuck my timing light on his engine, set the initial/base ignition timing, and, shortly after, my Friend's, truck's, V-8 Engine, was, back to Runnin', the way, that it should be, and, with all of that, said and done, I say, thanks again, and......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Nicholas Philip-neri Greetings Nicholas Philip-neri....Wowsers...!!!...Thanks kindly, for Your..."Fantastic"...Comment my Friend, and for taking the time, to watch this RUclips Video of mine, as well....................................Even though, some, if not most, of my RUclips Videos, happen to be, shall we say, a bit on the..."Long-Winded"...side of things (aka, my Video/s, being, too long, time-wise, that is), I'd rather take the "Flak" (as in, some Folks, leaving a comment, every now and again, about the, shall we say, Extended Running Time, of, most of the Videos, that I make), and, I do see Their Point alright, it's, just that, I can't see myself, making these Videos, in, a, shall we say..."Slam-Dunk"...(You know, that good ole "Basketball" term, pretty much meaning, to, "Slam-Dunk" the Basketball, into the "Hoop", in almost..."No Time at all"...!!!...lol) fashion, where-by, as I see it, if I were to make, oh, lettuce say, a really "Short, and to the Point", Video, on, what-ever the Subject matter happens to be, I figure that by doing so, some, if not most People, would be, shall we say, kinda, "Left Out in the Cold", and, probably not, getting enough Information, from that, so called, Hypothetical/Imaginary..."Slam-Dunk"...Video, well, if I were to make any, in that fashion, at all, that is.......................................If You have a look around, at the many, did I say Many..."Comments & Questions"...that can be seen, under most of these RUclips Videos, that I have made, so far, these Many, Comments/Questions, that You can see, are Posted, even though I thought, that, I, perhaps, had enough Information in these Videos of mine already, fancy that...lol.....................................Before I forget, the "Ohms Testing", of an Ignition Coil, will Only, Basically, be Tellin' Us, that, both, the "Primary, and the Secondary, Coil Windings", and their "Internal Connections", Inside, just about any Ignition Coil, are not "Open or Shorted", and, there can be times, quite Rarely at that, where, a..."Faulty, or Questionable"...Ignition Coil, Heats up to "Operating Temperature", or perhaps Higher, and, when "it" does, it could very well..."Not Work all that Well, or, might even, Stop Working, All-Together"...just, so You know, for Future Reference, if need be......................................The thing, to really be watching out for, is, while taking/doing the "Low Ohms Test", on just about any Ignition Coil out there, that, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter'"...that is being used, has it's..."Low Ohms...Range/Scale...Calibration"..."Checked/Verified"...especially when, checking out, something along the lines, of, oh, lettuce say, a General Motors/Chevrolet.."HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil"...where, as I recall, has a..."Low Ohms Reading"...(on a Good Coil, that is...lol), somewhere Between..."Just Over Zero Ohms, and, No Higher, then about 1 Ohm"...and, I'm sure, that, with that, Very Low, shall we say..."Ohm-age"..."Specification"...on the HEI Ignition Coil, that I was just talkin' about, then, even my very own, Yellow..."Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter" (that You can see, in this Video), had a "Miss-Calibration", of about .3 Ohms (that be, the Yellow Meter's, and the Test Leads on it, "Combined" together, to arrive at, that .3 Ohm's...Miss-Calibration, that I was just mentioning), and, that, my Friend, could "False-ly Indicate", that, a "Good Ignition Coil", just might, "Appear to be Bad"...if, and I say if, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter's"..."Miss-Calibration"..."Is Not Taken Into Consideration"...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........................As for the "High Ohms Test", on an Ignition Coil, and that "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", would usually have a "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", of, oh, should be, for the most part, in the..."Many Thousands of Ohms"...and as I see it, that, usually..."Under 1 Ohm Miss-Calibration"...on, something, like my Yellow Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter, could, shall we say, be Comparable, to, something like..."Trying To Find a Needle in a Hay-Stack"....!!!...lol...pretty much meaning, while taking, that rather "High Ohms Reading", with that, Less-Then, "1 Ohm"..."Miss-Calibration"...is, pretty much "Meaning-Less"...unless, a Person has a Phobia, where-by, They, just, might not be able to Sleep at Night, just, knowing, that, that High Ohms Test, wasn't..."Perfect"...!!!...lol........................................So, there You have it, not only, are some of my Videos..."Long-Winded"...but...at times, some? (if not Most?), of my "Replies", happen to be..."Long-Winded"..as well...!!!...lol...........................Thanks again, for Your well Appreciated Comment, my Friend, and.....................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
This is the absolute best video I found for testing a coil. It’s nicely explained and very easy to follow and understand for anyone who knows nothing to begin with…which was me. Thanks for a good video that explains the process perfectly, including how to set and use the multimeter, which I didn’t know how to use until I watched this.
Thanks Buddy!! My old 1972 John Deere tractor just stopped running a month ago in the middle of snowplowing. Been farting around trying to fix it for a month. Saw your vid about testing coil. The new one I out in 6 months ago is DEAD! Put the old one back in (looks super old, maybe original) and it fired up instantly!! Thanks again!!
+Jeff Pregman ....Greetings Jeff Pregman....You're Welcome my Friend, and, Congratulations, for Gittin'-er-Fixed............Hmmm...what's that old sayin'.....oh yeah, that's it, as in..."They Don't Make-em...like they use to"...(the Ignition Coil, that is...lol)..............As a Guess, it might have been, a not so good Electrical Connection, on the Low Voltage side, of Your Tractor's Ignition System, that had You thinkin', that, the much Older Ignition Coil was to blame, and should be turned out to pasture, when it was probably Ok, all along....................Make sure, that, when-ever Replacing, any of the Parts in Your Tractor's Ignition System, to get the "Exact Specified" ones, cuz, in a lot of cases, all of those particular Parts, have to be "Matched-Up", with one-another, especially so, the Ignition Coil's Primary Resistance, and whether or not, it has to be "Teamed-Up", with a Ballast Resistor as well, or, the result, could be, a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plug/s, or maybe, even an Ignition Coil that gets too Hot, Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, quite possibly............I don't know what Your Tractor has, in the way of an Ignition System, but, it's always a good idea, to Keep-Up with Maintenance.....................Something, like an old, dirty, and/or, worn-out Spark Plug, really should be Replaced with a New one, and, if it's the Gap-able type, it should be Gap-ed to Specifications, cuz, just about any time, that a Spark Plug's Gap, gets way too Big, that, in-itself, makes an Ignition Coil, Work all that much harder.............................All of the Ignition System's Wiring "Connections", should be, Clean, (shine-ee?) and Dry, or, sooner or later, there's gonna be Trouble in Paradise...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........If Mr. John Deere, starts to Feel Sick again, just leave a comment or question, under any of my RUclips Videos, and, once I know the Model Number, of Your Tractor, I can then, have a look-see, for that particular Tractor's, Information, and.........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you very much Rocky. The video really help me testing the coil. I have a 350 Chevy '68 on my boat and it help me to understand the routing of the wires and testing the coil. I have 3 of them which are in good condition. I was going to discard them, but now I will keep them in my tool box for emergencies. Also, you are very thorough in your explanation and very easy to understand. Aloha.
luis berrios Greetings luis berrios....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thanks, for not only watching this RUclips Video of mine, but also, for that nice comment that You posted here................................I'm assuming, that, when-ever You happen to be the "Captain" of Your "Vessel" (that just be a fancy schmancy way of sayin'..."Boat"...lol), that, as I'm thinkin', probably, due to the odds, of Your "Boat" being Operated in, what is known around here, in Canada (and more then likely, plenty of Other Countries as well), as the "Salt Chuck" (that, is just, oh, I guess the slang Name, possibly being started by a "Mariner/Captain", or, Some Other Person, that some-what Replaces, the, shall we say, more Common Word, for, the)..."Body of Water"...where-by..."It", will usually have a rather..."High Amount of Salt Content in it"...and, that, so called..."Salt Chuck", is usually in the Form of an..."Ocean"...as opposed to a..."Body of Fresh Water"...that might just be in the Form of a..."Lake"...perhaps............................Now then, what I was kinda getting at, just above, would have my thinkin', that, seeing as how You ended Your comment, with that rather Famous Word, being that, of..."Aloha"...leads me to believe, that You may, very well be, in, or on, "One" of those "Islands", in..."Hawaii" (I hope, that I spelled it correctly?), and, also, I'm visualizing, Your Boat, and of course, with You, being the "Captain", at the "Helm" (that be, yet, another fancy schmancy Word, and it just basically means "Steering Wheel", most of the time...!!!...lol)...and, I'll even "Fathom" a Guess (nope, not the Water Depth word, this time...lol), that Your Boat is probably being Operated in a "Body of Sea Water, with, lots and Lots of Salt in it", and, as You, have probably noticed, and probably experienced, as well as, plenty of Other People and myself, have, is that..."Salt (Sea/Ocean) Water"...is very..."Unforgiving, and Very Corrosive"...!!!..............................What I'm getting at here, this time, is, forewarning You (You might already know?), that, the, shall I say..."Salt Air"...that's usually found above the "Sea/Ocean", and, on the "Coast Line", of a "Coastal Community or City", is almost, as "Corrosive", as the "Sea Water Itself", and, when it comes to, something like, Your Boat's "Wiring and Connections", it usually, doesn't take, all that long, before, that rather "Corrosive...Salt-Containing...Sea Air", starts to get into, something like Your Boats "Wiring System", and, all of those "Wiring Connections/Connecters", and, seeing as, You were sayin', that, You had some "Spare Ignition Coils" to use as, oh, "Emergency/Back-up Replacements"...just in case (as we all are, keepin' our fingers crossed, to try to, avoid, You, having to use, any One of those, Extra Ignition Coils)..............................What's that ole Saying...???..........................Oh yeah, it goes something like this.............."An Ounce of Prevention, is Worth, a Pound of Cure"...and, here's what I'd like to tell You, about that Word..."Prevention", if You'll let me, that is (lol)...........................My best Advice, is, something as Simple as..."Keeping a Very Close Eye"...on Your Boats..."Wiring Connections"...as, like I was just sayin' above, about, just how "Nasty and Corrosive", that, all of that (Salt Filled)..."Sea (Ocean) Air"..."Actually Is"...especially, when we are talking about "Metals that will Corrode", at an even "Faster Rate", especially considering, that, good ole "Salt Air Environment", that Your Boat is probably being "Exposed To"...!!!..........................Now I'm thinkin', and, I'll even bet, that, the "Air"...(not even bringing, any "Salt" into this offering)...might just be, quite "Humid" (as in Humidity, or even, Relative Humidity, that might be, expressed in...% or Per-Cent), could very well be..."Quite High"...and that my Friend, even without having any "Salt", in that, possibly, "High Humidity"..."Air"...and, given enough time, as I've found out, more then once, will eventually, get into, just about any..."Wiring Connection Points"...and, will usually, make for, some very Unwanted, Not Working so Good..."Engine Related Running/Performance Issues"...and sometimes, even on a Good day...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol................................So, there You have it...Please..."Keep All of Your Boat's Wiring Connections"..."Shine-ee, and Corrosion-Free"...(and that also, goes for...not having any "Oxidation", on any connection points as well), so, Your Good Friend, that being, Your Boat's Engine, gets the well deserved..."Battery Voltage & Amperage"...that "it" really does require, so, that, good ole Engine of Yours, doesn't Stop Working, having the end result, being, Your "Boat", just sitting, somewhere, out there, in the "Salt Chuck", and Not Moving, trying to pretend, that it's just, a..."Marker Boo-ee" (that was my rendition, of the real word...Buoy...lol).................................Also, make sure, that You Run, Your Engine Compartment, Ventilation System..."Before You Start Your Engine"...!!!...(if so equipped, that is?)...and...Make Sure, that, You have a Fully Charged, and Properly Operating..."Fire Extinguisher"..."On-Board"...just in case (and I hope not)..................Seems, You have "It Made"..."Mah-hee-Mah-hee" (Fish...???), and, lots of Pretty "Hula" Girls too...lol........................................Well......Till next time...."Steady as She Goes Captain"...and...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Meaghan Pashen....I'm glad that this video of mine, was able to help you out, and, thanks kindly, for your very appreciated words, that I read in your comment as well....As for this older type of ignition coil, that you see in this video, it happens to be "Old School", in comparison with ignition coils that can be found on the vehicles that are being sold these days....With the older vehicles, oh, up to about the mid 1970's, were quite easy to learn about, maintain, repair, and modify, as compared to all of the vehicles now-ah-days, that have fuel injection, onboard computers, and then some, but not to worry, just set your own pace, (maybe like the pace that You experienced in this video maybe?), and, just..."Learn-as-You-go"...much like I have, and still do, to this very day. The real Major difference, in the Older versus Newer vehicles, is the "Engine Management System", and other components, like Electronically Controlled automatic transmissions as well. I find that, it's quite a bit easier to learn (and maybe teach as well), the Fundamentals (aka, basics) about vehicles (cars, trucks, etc.), especially, as compared to newer vehicles, having an Onboard Computer, Fuel Injection, and the "List" goes on. Cars, Trucks, and anything, that makes them go, just happens to be a "Hobby" of mine, and I "Save a Pile of Money", by D.I.Y., ooops, I meant D.I.M. (aka, Do It Myself!...lol). If you liked this Ignition Coil video, I have another Video on my RUclips Channel, that would probably help you out, with how an "Old School" vehicles "Ignition System" actually works, and it was an ignition system that was usually referred to as, a "Points and Condenser" type of ignition system (this particular ignition system was only used up to about 1974, and this system used an Ignition Coil that looks just like the Ignition Coil that You see in this video, but, it is quite a bit easier to understand, as compared to the onboard Computer ignition systems found on vehicles these days. If you care to, head on over to my RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow..., and check out (actually watch, and maybe listen too...lol), the Video, with the Title of, something like...Simple Explanation of a Vehicles Ignition System... ...also, feel free to have a Look-See at any of my other RUclips Videos, as I'm sure that You will find plenty of interesting information in my other videos as well...enjoy. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
people are so busy and stressed out these days eh? Ive had one of those ohm meters sitten around for 10 years now...and I never had a clue!!! on how to use the darn thing!! Thank You so much for your video. People like you and I...that KNOW what the hell were talking about like to explain things where all people can understand it and that takes a minute or two!! Good job sir!!
Greetings...Dale Rucker............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...eh...lol............Well, the good ole Multi-meter, be it, an older, Analogue type, that has a needle/pointer that Waves at You, or, be it, the Digital type, that will usually, only be showing You Numbers, along with, sometimes, showing a decimal (point), and/or, maybe a symbol or two, perhaps (ohms symbol maybe?...as an example), can sure help out, quite a bit, when it comes to, tryin' to track down the Culprit, that could very well be causing, an (electrically related) problem or two...hopefully, that is............Here's something else, You can try, if You like..........If, You were to set Your Multi-meter, on the Low Volts range, then, just get a 1.5 Volt Battery (one and one half Volts, round type), as in...AAA...AA...C...or D...size, and, make sure, to touch/connect the Multi-meter's probe/tips, to each end, of the 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, using the Correct "Polarity", as in, the Red probe, is usually + (plus sign = Positive), and the Black probe, is usually - (minus sign = Negative), or, more simply put...the Red probe/tip, goes to the end of the battery, that has the Bump/protrusion on it...and....the Black probe/tip, goes on the Flat end of the Battery, then, have a look at the Voltage reading, that will usually be showing on the Multi-meter, well, unless, that poor ole Battery, happens to be...as dead as a Door Nail, that is, as in, completely used up, and/or, might be, very, very old as well...............A Brand spankin' New, 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, should be showing, a bit more, than 1.6 Volts, most times..............I've found, that, when, one of these Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt (round) Batteries, starts to drop Below, oh, about 1.4 Volts, then, that's usually the time, where, what-ever the Battery is powering, will sometimes, start to work, not-so-good, sometimes............If, one or more, Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, happen to be in a Flashlight, that has an old school, Light-Bulb in it (not the LED/Light Emitting Diode type), then, a Person, might be able to see, that, the Flashlight, isn't casting, as "Bright" of a Light, as it did before, when those (1 and 1/2 volt) Batteries, were brand spankin' "New"................If, there are two or more, 1 and 1/2 volt Batteries, placed/connected end-to-end, as in, Bumpy end of one battery, is touching the Flat end, of the other battery, then, this is basically, what is called, a Series circuit, and, each of the Battery's Voltages, gets added together, which will increase the Total Voltage available, as in, for example, let's use a Flashlight, that uses, only Two, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, shall we............When these two batteries, are placed end to end (placed in Series), then, the Voltages, of those two batteries, are added together...............So, if each New, 1 and 1/2 volt battery, is 1.6 Volts each, just add...1.6 plus 1.6, which should equal 3.2 Volts..............Then, as these two batteries, get used up, by the old school Light Bulb, that's in the Flashlight (while it's on), then, as the Voltage starts dropping, so will, the Brightness, of the Light, that's coming out of the Flashlight, well, as far as I might know, it will...maybe...lol...........So then, the light-Bulb, that's in the imaginary Flashlight (above), as far as I see it, is a pretty good example, of what can happen, when a Battery's Voltage, starts to Drop, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for sharing the video in the depth you did. It was great to see everything explained with depth and detail, without much fluff. Very useful for the novice!
Greetings anakaine....Thanks kindly, for you very well Appreciated choice of words, my Friend....To some, (maybe just venting, due to a bad day perhaps?), think that this particular Video is on the "Long-Winded" side, to say the least....But, never-the-less, I'm just gonna "Stick-To-My-Guns" (so to speak), in that, if I just do the "Slam-Dunk" (as in the Basket-Ball Term), meaning, get to the Point (of the material being discussed in my Videos), without giving any Thoughtful Consideration to those Folks that are just starting out, and, not having very much Knowledge of, or Exposure to, would (in my opinion) be, Abandoning them. (something, that I just don't want to do). What's that old saying?...."You can please some of the People some of the time, but, you can't please All of the People All of the Time!"...lol...(gee, I hope I got that right!...lol). Sure, I will be making some mistakes from time to time, but, as I see it, it's the Thought that Counts! : ) Thanks again, for your "Great" comment! Take care, "HAPPY NEW YEAR!", and, have a nice day.
..nice detailed job on your video...you closed the gap from beginner's to basic to novice all in one video...well done... thank you for that...all the best to you and yours...
Greetings...Tropicalan....Thanks for Your nice comment, and for watching too..................This rather long (time-wise), RUclips Video of mine, will hopefully be able to help a Person, get started, on the, shall we say basics maybe, but, I've been doing quite a bit of studying, on some of the Ignition Coils that are out there, and, when a Person digs in really deep (hopefully not over their head, kinda like me...lol), and kinda sees, just how involved, an automotive type of ignition coil gets, as in, seeing how one performs, and how the a Spark Pattern (trace) looks, on the Display Screen of an Oscilloscope, then, it's as though, we might be nearing, Rocket Science territory after-all...maybe...???...lol....................If You ever have to replace, or maybe even upgrade, any of the parts or pieces, in any Ignition System/Circuit..."Make Sure"..that, the New Component/Part, is With-in, the..."Exact Specifications"...for that..."Exact"...Ignition System/Circuit, or, maybe, just a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plugs, or, in a worse case scenario, one or more of those Components/Parts, gets..."Fried"...and hopefully, without starting a..."Fire"...at the very same time...!!!...Yikes...!!!....................Thanks again, my Friend, and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Emil Cornell.........Thanks for watching..........Here's something else, to keep in mind also..........There can be times, quite rarely, when a faulty ignition coil might start to act-up, and not work so well, or, might even stop working, possibly, when it gets up to operating temperature, or, maybe even hotter.........The Ohms (resistance) testing, of an ignition coil, isn't really, the be all, end all test, b-cuz, the Ohms/resistance test, is usually done, when the ignition coil is rather cool, as in, room temperature perhaps...........Make sure, to keep up with regular vehicle maintenance, that's usually, to be done, in accordance, with the vehicle's manufacturer's maintenance schedule, at the specified time, and/or, mileage/kilometer-age "intervals", b-cuz by doing so, you'll be getting better performance, and, if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, then, some very good gas mileage, it will usually end up being, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
wow you're very explanatory I only wanted to know how to check resistance in general but I really enjoyed the whole video about the calibrating the meter and how you said its like a step up converter...I love pointless (never pointless but still!) learning, thanks!!
Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....Thanks for watching, and for, Your interesting comment as well.............................................I thought that I'd go the extra mile, and mention a few things while I was at it, as it pertains to, some of the, shall we say, Information, that was found, in, some of the RUclips Videos that I have made to date................................................Hmmmmmm...now I'm thinkin', that, perhaps a Person could compare Me, to that of a "Waiter", that gave that "Table of Four"..."Outstanding Service and Consideration"...in that..."Fine Dining Restaurant"...where You were at, a few months ago.............................................I usually don't Receive "Tips" in the Customary sense of the word, but rather, those, shall we say "Tips", that I like Receiving, do, for the most part, present Themselves, in the Form of, some "Well Appreciated"..."Comments".................................................You were most Generous, as I was only expecting 10% of the Bill, and here, You and the Three Others, that were in Your Dinner Party.............(hold on, It's my Mental Math time, as I'm running the Extra Coinage through my Gray Matters Computer, and)..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...It's lookin' like, Your Party of Four, left Me a..."46 Dollar Tip" (in the Form of, the "46" Words, that Formed Your Comment, that is)...................................................Thanks again for Your "Tip"...ooops...I meant to say...Comment.............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thanks! my dads a master electrician and my grandfather is an electrical engineer so I love things like this! I've grown up around things like this and they've always intrigued me to learn and hear things new ways.
Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....You're welcome, and..................................................maybe ask, both Your Dad and Your Grandfather, if they recall seeing the good ole..."Knob and Tube"...Electrical Wiring System, for Houses that were built somewhere in the earlier half of the 1900's...and...maybe, They might also remember seeing things like, oh, something like when the House's Electric Panel, had...Screw in Fuses...before, during, and after, the, shall we say, Transition to, the more modern style of..."Circuit Breakers".......................................................Maybe while I'm at it, perhaps also ask Them, about possibly seeing, the good ole...Galvanized Steel Pipe (then after that, Copper, then Plastic), that was used for the House's Water Supply Piping System, and, last but not least, that good ole...Cast Iron Plumbing Soil Pipe...that was joined together by, Molten Lead (pronounced Led) and Oakum, to pack the joint, (then later went to Plastic and Glue)...............................................Now there's some "History" for Ya...!!!............................Be Safe, Take care, and have a good one.
Our house still has the screw in fuses, May be antiquated but still works fine haha, we have a breakerbox on the outside of the house for things added over the years, but I'll bd sure to ask them about the others!
Greetings...the jackel.............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too............If, and when-ever, you, or who-ever, might be replacing/installing a New ignition coil, make sure that, "it" is the "Correct" one, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine, b-cuz, if the "Wrong" one, happens to get installed, that "Does Not", have the "Correct", Vehicle Manufacturer's, Ohms/resistance specifications (especially so, on the Low Ohms/Primary side/coil windings), for that particular ignition system/circuit, then, it might result in, something along the lines of, a Weak Spark, at the spark plug's Electrodes, or perhaps, some not-wanted/expensive damage, it might end up being, and, I hope not (ignition coil, might Over-Heat, and go Kaput/Quit working, as an example).............When-ever, I ordered, an ignition coil, for a vehicle, that had a stock/un-modified engine, I would tell, the Parts, guy or gal, what vehicle it was, along with, the particulars of the Engine as well, and, the only thing, that was, looked-up/involved, was usually, just a "Part Number" Only (No ignition coil Specifications, what-so-ever)...But...what if...???...there was an "Error", in the Part's...Listing...or...the Parts, guy or gal, had an off-day, and made a boo-boo (aka, mistake)...???...........What I try to do, to prevent any Errors (hopefully, that is), is to, have a look-see, in a Factory/Manufacturer's..."Chassis Service Manual"...to, see for myself, what the "Low Ohms"...and..."High Ohms"...Specifications, actually are, for that "Exact", vehicle and engine...........I recall, some time ago (for the very same vehicle/engine), that, I saw (in a factory/manufacturer's service manual)..."2"...Different...(sets of) ignition coil (ohms/resistance) Specifications, for..."2-Different"...ignition coils, that had "Different", ignition coil Manufacturers...!!!...how about that...lol...oh, and, that particular vehicle, only used, "1-Only" ignition coil (not 2), just, so as, not to be confused..............Then, if the ignition system/circuit, is a much older type, then, some of them, might have/and use, what is called, a Ballast Resistor, that has to have the "Correct" Ohms/resistance Specification/s as well (a ballast resistor, is needed, to be used along with certain ignition coils, or, that particular ignition coil, will probably get too Hot/Over-Heat, and destroy itself)............The better, a vehicle's ignition system performs (and, that every-thing else, is working as it should), will more than likely, result in better (engine) Performance, and if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, good gas mileage, it will usually be...and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Amorget....You're welcome, and I'm glad, that, this RUclips Video of mine was able to help You out, and also, thanks for watching, and commenting too....The "Ohm's" Readings, that show up as being with-in "Specifications" on both, the Primary & Secondary "Windings", are, as I see it, just a, shall we say..."Preliminary Test", as there just might, come a time, that, I'm thinkin', that, and probably quite "Rarely" as well, that, once a "Faulty" Ignition Coil "Heats Up" to its..."Operating/Engine Compartment"..."Temperature"...then, even though that particular Ignition Coil "Ohm's Testing" was showing...."Good"...that same Ignition Coil..."Might"...(and rarely at that), "Not Work" as it was Designed/Supposed to....In other words, that, shall we say..."Faulty/Suspect/Questionable"..."Ignition Coil", just might..."Break Down", when it arrived at its "Operating Temperature", and either, start to Function..."Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...!!! There is one, shall I call it..."Major" thing to watch out for, and that..."Thing" happens to be, the "Supply Voltage/Current" that gets "Sent/Connected" to the Ignition Coil's (usually)...Positive or + (+ = Plus Sign) Terminal on the Common (North American) Vehicles, that have...Negative or - (- as in Minus Sign) "Grounded" Electrical Systems, where usually, the Vehicle's "Chassis or Frame"...IS"...the (Negative) Ground. Watch out now....as, Some of the much "Older" Vehicles "Electrical Systems"..."Might" have Installed in them, "Either"..."Negative"..."Or"..."Positive" (Electrical) "Grounding"...But..."Might" also have, a..."6-Volt"...or a..."12-Volt"..."Battery"...that resides in the..."Vehicle" in question...!!! Then, depending on the "Actual" Ignition Coil in question, it may, or may Not "Require" a "Ballast Resistor", which will usually show up, in the Form of...a "Resistance Wire" (usually, can be found in quite a few General Motors vehicles)..or...a "Ceramic" (usually white-ish in color) Type of Ballast Resistor, that has the "Job", of "Reducing/Limiting" (and I'm thinkin') Electrical "Current", that as I see it, should result in the required "Voltage Drop", to "Prevent" that particular "Ballast Equipped" Ignition Coil...from..."Burning Up" (aka, Non-Functional any more...Kaput)...!!! Depending on "Ignition/Electrical System" Installed in some Vehicles, that I have worked on (mostly North American/Domestic Vehicles, as in, General Motors, Dodge, Ford, etc.), would usually Allow "Full" Battery Voltage (in this case, Nominal 12-Volts), to make its way to the Ignition Coil, but, "Only" while in the process of Starting the Engine, and with the Starter Motor in Operation. When in "Starting Mode", the Engine's "Starter Motor", just might Draw as much as, oh, could be about, and up to about 200 Amps (aka, Amperes), depending on, just How much Power/Torque, that the Engine demanded of that poor ole Starter Motor. Now then, with All of that Electrical Current being "Drawn" (up to, maybe 200 Amps), from the Vehicle's Battery, has me thinkin', that, the Battery's "Voltage", would probably "Drop", to somewhere, in the neighborhood, of oh, about "9-Volts" maybe, thus, as I see, would be the reason, that, there is usually, a "Separate" Battery nominal 12-Volt Supply Wire, which, will usually "By-Pass" the "Ballast Resistor" all-together...!!!... ...then... ...once the Engine "Starts, and keeps Running", the Position of the Ignition Key/Switch, goes from..."Starting Position"...to the..."Run Position"...and as I've learned/experienced, while the Ignition Switch/Key is in the "Run" Position, the Battery's nominal 12 Volts, could be "Increased" to, oh about, 14.5 Volts, when the Vehicle's "Charging System" becomes "Operational", and, the "Ballast Resistance", that, was like I said earlier, was in the Form of, a "Resistance Wire" (General Motors), or, of the "Ceramic" Type, which will "Reduce" or "Limit" the Electrical "Current", that will result in the "Correct"...Voltage "Drop", that will be "Low" enough to keep the Ignition Coil from "Burning Up", as well as...Not being "Too Low", as that would make for, one, "Not So Good" & probably, quite "Weak" and maybe "Not Functioning"...Ignition Coil. So, in a Nut-Shell, here's what we have... ...and... ...a very Good comparison, would be, just like the following, and shall we also say...descriptive...good ole saying... ...and, that saying is... ..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!... ...or, as in... ...it "Only" takes "One" Questionable/Intermittent/Not so Good...Electrical Component or Wiring "Connection", to mess things up, which keeps Us All, from havin' a good day... ...with all that, said and done, I would like to end with... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Good for you - I feel sorry for all of the people on here with child-like attention spans who are quicker to "type" a response than "listen" to the lesson. "If you're talking, you're not listening. If you're not listening, you're not learning." I like how people who come to you for help and advice, take it willingly and then give you insults and poor manners in return. You're awesome! Keep going!
Greetings Matt Kaiser....Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and the words that you said in Your Comment, that "Reflect", Your Intelligence, Compassion, and also, a very Good Analogy, on how a Person, should really Conduct Him/Herself, in order to Gain, the Most Information Possible, from the Person that is Offering Useful Information, that just may be Beneficial to the Person receiving it, that is Genuinely Interested, in the Subject that's being Offered at the time....For some strange reason lately, an older Actor's Name keeps popping into my head, and, maybe, just maybe, I might just know the reason why....The Actors Name, happens to be "Yul Brynner" (I think it's pronounced...Yule Brenner)....I sure don't look anything like him, but, I think that there just be something about His Voice, that has me thinking somewhat, that perhaps one day, I will be able to reach People, with a Voice like Yul's, that will have an Effect on them, just as Yul's Voice had an Effect on me, but hey, who really knows, only time will tell. A Person Must Always Remember, that, when they Deposit something on the Internet, it goes "World-Wide", and, it might just stay in "Cyber-Space" Forever!!! Perhaps the RUclips Videos that I have made so far, as well as the Videos that I plan to make in the Future, may very well be, part of my "Legacy" for "All" to Enjoy, and hopefully, Benefit from as well, and, I say again, only time will tell. Just Imagine now, if All of Us Folks on Planet Earth were "Clones", and were cut from the same Cloth, or, Extracted from the same Mold? Wouldn't be much fun with that Scenario, huh? That's why, the Power, or Powers that be, made us all "Unique", and in the Form of "Individuals", and, see how much more Interesting, and Fun, it actually is, as compared to, shall we say, "Zombies?" I mentioned in a previous Reply/Comment, that I posted not all that long ago under one of my RUclips Videos, that I Welcomed "ALL" Comments, under my RUclips Videos, be them...(I'll even ramp up the words a wee bit) Good, Bad, or just plain UGLY!!!...lol...(Thanks, Clint Eastwood). Maybe those (very, very few) Individuals, that Were Not, all that pleased with some of the Videos of mine, Posted that very Entertaining, and looked like, they got up on the wrong side of the bed, on that day, might come back, and have a Look-See, at, well at least the "View Count" on this here Video... Will you Permit Me, to "Toot-My-Own-Horn?" (Telepathy is like Snail Mail today, for some reason)... I think I heard a very faint...y...e...s All-Righty then... Drum Roll Please... The View Count, that shows at the top of this page indicates... "66870" Views, and dare I say...Still counting! (Up, I hope!...lol). Please, don't worry about me, and any of those, Not so Kind Comments that you happen to see, under any of my RUclips Videos, as, not only do I find them quite Entertaining, but, those so called "Interesting" Comments, "Keep-My-Mind-Sharp", and enables me to do Battle (Verbally, that is...lol) with those Not-So-Fun People, that have taken it upon themselves to "Bite-Off-More-Then-They-Can-Chew", when it comes to trying to "Out-Wit", Me, Myself, and I. Me Awesome?...Nah, I'm just taking the Advice from a Fellow Online Video Gamer, that I use to play with/against a few years back... ...but, I would like to say, that His Advice was..."Awesome", that's for sure... His "Advice" was really simple, and that Advice was... ..."Just Be Yourself"....I didn't talk...just listened... You said for me..."To Keep Going, right?"... "Your Wish is My Command!"... ps, You Only have 2-Wishes Remaining, as, I happen to be... ...the "Genie" that You let out of the Bottle, when You "Un-Corked-It!!!" Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...vetterfellow.............Thanks kindly, for your nice comment, oh, and, thanks for watching too...........Well, I heard, quite some time ago, that, an ignition coil might wear out, due to "thermal cycling" (I think?), where-by, an ignition coil might start out very cold, temperature-wise (let's think in terms of, something like winter, way up north, shall we), then, that poor ole ignition coil, starts getting heated-up to operating temperature, while in operation, then, after the engine gets turned off, back to cold, "it" goes again.............Now then, let's say, that the car, truck, or what-ever, only gets used once per day, then, I'm thinkin' that, that alone, would amount to 365 "thermal cycles" per year.............Then, multiply 365 x (times) the number of years, that, the ignition coil can still do its job properly...Holy-gwalk-ah-moly, that's a lot of contracting & expanding, that, that poor ole ignition coil, has to endure, and, that's only based on, "one thermal cycle per day"...!!! (probably be much more, for a vehicle, that has to fetch...kids...groceries...beer...&...go to work too...lol)............Just recently, I got curious, as to the diameter, of both, the primary windings, and the secondary windings, that get hidden away, inside of, an automotive type of ignition coil............The primary wire (windings) diameter, is quite thick, when being compared to, that of, the secondary wire (windings) diameter............I'm not sure about the primary wire size/diameter, oh, maybe between, about 1/32, to almost 1/16th of an inch maybe, but, the secondary wire diameter, can probably be compared to, the size (diameter) of, now get this, a...Human Hair...!!!...Wowsers...!!!...&...that be, about .003" (three thousandths of an inch) in diameter (impressive, I must say)...........Generically speaking, there are about 100 turns of secondary wire/windings, for every one turn, of primary wire/windings (quite the turns ratio alright)...........That turns ratio difference, is pretty much, what increases that nominal, 12 volt battery voltage, up-to, the many thousands of volts, that are required, in order to create, that good ole "spark", between the spark plug's electrodes, in general terms, that is...........I sure as heck, would never, ever, even want to attempt, trying to hand-wind, those .003" diameter secondary windings...no way...but, in my teen years, I did hand-wind, a few slot car motor's, 3 pole armatures, and that, was about as close ,as I'll probably ever get, to becoming a "watch-maker", oh, and yes, of course, a..."Rolex"...watch-maker...!!!...lol...........Thanks again, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When you are ohm testing a coil positive and negative doesn't matter you're checking for resistance in the coil it's important to have the ohmmeter set at the correct settings primary and secondary
Greetings Paul Johnson....Thanks kindly, for your very nice comment, my Friend....I'm not sure if I happened to mention some things in this Video, that I will let you know about now....Make sure that, All "Wiring" is Disconnected from your Ignition Coil when you Test it with the Ohm-Meter (Multi-Meter), for the reason that, your "Ohm-Readings", probably Won't be "Accurate", because of the "Extra" Wiring (and maybe other components like "Switches", and, General Motors use of a "Resistance Wire", and, Other Vehicles that may have "Ballast Resistors", in the Electrical "Circuit", just before, that there Oil Filled Ignition Coil) gets Added into an Electrical "Circuit" (Yes-Siree-Bob), as, we Don't want any "Circuit" to Mess-Up the Ohm Readings that we are after, as it applies to the Primary, and, Secondary "Coils" that are "Hiding", inside that there, Oil Filled Ignitions Coils Metal Cylindrical Shaped Metal Containment Shell (or, Body, if you will)...and...(I'm not sure why, but, I sure do Like to "Play" with "Words", as you can see!...lol)....(I figure that, If I keep things Easy Going, with a Bit of "Fun", thrown in for good measure, that it just might make the Learning Experience, or Information Gathering, and, along with (I hope), Entertainment value as well), have my Videos (and Comment Section too), that much more Enjoyable, for the Folks that are looking for Information that I have "Locked" away inside all of these Videos. So, for all of You Folks that are Reading these words, here and now, Please feel free to "Un-Lock" the Information inside any of my Videos, any time that You care to....(hands You the "Key!"...lol). Take care Paul, and, have a good one.
Rocky, great instructional video. Never mind the criticisms, you do a great job of assuming that your viewer has no prior knowledge and that's the way to teach!
+hindflight R ....Greetings hindflight R....Thanks for the nice comment, as I do, really appreciate it...................Well, once I hit the Record Button on the Video Camera..."Away I Go"...!!!...lol...and even I'm quite surprised, at just how long (time-wise, that is), that some (maybe most?), of my RUclips Videos seem to go on for....................Also, when-ever Someone, puts out Information to the Masses (aka, People in Public), then, that Someone, should be ready, for any forth coming (as You put it), "Criticisms"................Hmmmm...maybe it's kinda like, putting a Restaurant's (food) Menu, on the table, (in front of those Hungry Customers...!!!...lol), and, I'm pretty darn sure, that (are You ready for this one...?), as in..."You can please, some of the People some of the time...but...You can Never, please All of the people All of the Time...!!!...lol (was I even close, with that good ole sayin' at all...???)......................Thanks again, for Your Super comment, and.........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
The man makes a DETAILED video to help folks out and all he gets is insults from some people. if he could take the time to make the video to help YOU, why cant you take the time to watch and appreciate it. I dont get it
My guess is that some people don't have 20 minutes to spend on effectively 4 minutes of information. People like concise and efficient videos. That's my guess.
Joe Grove Greetings Joe Grove....You are very Welcome, and, Thanks for watching, and for, Your Super comment as well................................................I'm glad, that this RUclips video of mine, was somewhat able, to help You understand, what's basically going on, with this type of..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...and, it usually..."Outputs"..."Less Secondary High Voltage"...to the Spark Plugs, as compared to some of the, shall we say..."High Energy" (aka, in terms of something like a General Motors/Chevy...etc., HEI, or High Energy Ignition...Ignition Coil, that is some cases, has an Epoxy Type of Ignition Coil, mounted right "In", and on Top of the Distributor's, distributor Cap, that I've seen, since about 1975)..............................................The..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...that You see in this video of mine, had a few Things to be aware of, as well as, something like, having only, .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch) Spark Plug "Gaps" (as opposed to, some of the Spark Plug "Gaps", that can be anywhere from, .045" to .080"...that be, forty-five thousandths of an inch, and, as I've seen, up to, eighty thousandths of an inch...!!!...in an Ignition System, that had, the, shall we say..."Higher Energy/Higher Secondary Voltage"...Ignition Coils).......................................................Just keep in mind, that whenever the Spark Plug "Gap-Size" gets Larger, the Higher the Ignition Coil's..."Secondary High Voltage Output"...has to be, in order to be able to..."Jump the Larger Gap"...between the Spark Plug's..."2 Electrodes"............................................Also, whenever the Spark Plug's "Gaps" Increase, due to the Electrical "Arcing/Spark" Erosion (wear), more-so, on the Older, Regular type of spark plugs, this "Extra" spark plug "Gap", puts quite a "Strain", on the Ignition Coil, and also, just like a Bank Account running out of Money, an Ignition Coil, can also run out of, what is known as..."Ignition Reserve".............................................That's when, the Ignition Coil, can, shall we say..."No Longer Keep Up"...with the amount of..."High Secondary Voltage"...that, those "Worn out Spark Plugs"...with the..."Increased Gaps"...are..."Demanding"...in order to, be able to..."Make the Jump"...between those..."2, Increased Gap, spark plug Electrodes"...due to that..."Spark/Arc Erosion" (Wear, Worn, or Worn-out spark plugs)...that I was mentioning just a short time ago...................................................In most cases, that I've seen, these "Oil Filled Ignition Coils", with a few exceptions (as some of the oil filled ignition coils, might have internal winding specifications, that, as I see it, should eliminate the need for an "External" ballast resistor), have, what is referred to, as a..."Ballast Resistor"...and usually, found in the Wiring Circuit, just before the Oil Filled type of Ignition Coil, in the form of, a "Ceramic Type" (usually white-ish in color)...or, in some General Motors (up to about 1974) Vehicles...a..."Special Resistance Wire"...which, will..."Reduce the Primary, Battery Voltage"...that goes to the Ignition Coil...(now get this)...which will also..."Reduce the Oil Filled Ignition Coil's, Secondary High Voltage Output"...!!!.............But why, You ask...???.............So, that poor ole, Oil Filled (type), of Ignition Coil..."Does Not Burn Itself Out"...due to having, shall we say..."Too long of a Saturation Time" (aka, called Dwell, which is the time it takes, to charge up the ignition coil...Before it goes "Zap"), with, Too High of a..."Primary" (full Battery Voltage)...(as opposed to, the "Reduced Voltage", that the Ballast Resistor...Supply's...to the oil filled type of Ignition Coil).................................................So, always..."Make Sure"...that You..."Purchase/Buy, and Install"...the..."Exact, and Specified"..."Ignition Coil"..."Ballast Resistor" (if so equipped?)...and..."All Specified Parts"...for Your..."Exact, Ignition System"...that is..."In Your Vehicle"...as well as, the..."Correct Spark Plugs"...that have the Spark Plug..."Electrodes, Gapped"...to the..."Specified Gap Setting"...so that Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil"..will be able to..."Give a Good Strong Spark, at All Times"...and also, for it to Live, a Long Happy Life as well, that will also, spare You, from spending Money needlessly, on a "New" Ignition Coil (and maybe Other Parts, as well perhaps?).............................................One other thing..............Although, just about any Ignition Coil, might..."Test OK"...with an..."Ohm/Multi-Meter"...there are times, quite rarely at that, that, an...Ignition Coil"...can sometimes..."Not Work Properly" (perhaps Intermittently)...or maybe..."Not At All"...when it..."Heats Up" (ballpark scenario = fully warmed up Engine, to Operating Temperature perhaps)............................Last, but not least, there is, a really good ole Saying, that I like to use, at times (maybe even Over-Use...lol), and that good ole saying is..."The Chain is only as Strong as the Weakest Link" (as in Snap!), when it comes to, just about anything, but seeing as how the subject matter, is about a Vehicle's Ignition System, and its Component Parts, Wiring, and the "Ignition Coil" itself, all it takes is..."One Little, Bad/Faulty, Wiring Connection"...or..."Faulty Part"...to keep Our, usually..."Quite Reliable Ignition System"...from..."Doin' its Thing"...Properly, and as it should...............................................................Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment, my Friend....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Your welcome and Thanks for this extra info!! I know a lot about motors and the mechanics of them, I have a 1932 chevy coupe rat rod, a 1967 Kaiser M715, and a few bikes. My only problem was electronics. But thanks again!!
Greetings...Jesse Flaman...........Thanks for the nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too...........Here's some info for Ya............Even though a certain type of Ignition Coil, appears to look about the same, as some of the other ones out there, while looking at the outside of it, then please, don't assume, that, they share the Same "Specifications", and depending on how an Ignition Coil is to be used, and, in what-ever application, it just might be, then, if the (ignition) "Circuit", is Not Correct/close enough, then, the Ignition Coil in question, might end up having, a Low Output, or, might even end up, having that poor ole Ignition Coil, Over-Heat, and Fry itself..............From what I recall, each type of Ignition Coil, has a Saturation (charge-up) Time (usually measured in milliseconds, as in, one thousandths of a second, time-wise), and, should only be Saturated/Charged-Up, with Up-to, the Maximum number of Amps/Amperes, that is Specified, for that Exact ignition coil, and probably, for not too long, time-wise either, and will probably have a primary voltage rating as well..............If the Amps, get too High, and for too long, time-wise, then, more than likely, that poor ole Ignition Coil will probably get way too Hot, and Cook itself.................Also, make sure that the Voltage input, on the Primary/Low Volts side, of that particular Ignition Coil, is as Specified, as some of the much older Ignition Coils, or maybe certain applications, are rated for 6-Volts (not the more common, 12-Volt ignition coils, that we are seeing in vehicles these days)..............Some of the older Points and Condenser Distributors, that controlled the Saturation/Charge-Up time, for the cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils (like the one that I used as a Prop, in this RUclips video of mine), usually had a fixed Dwell (charge-up) time, and, for a V-8 engine, it was usually fixed, at about 30 (distributor) Degrees, and was, way too Much dwell (time), at idle speed, so, a Ballast Resistor (be it, a special Resistance Wire, or, the whitish colored, Ceramic Block type), had to be placed, in the (engine) "Run" Circuit (not the Starting Circuit), so, as to, Lower the Amps, that were fed to the Primary side of the ignition coil, in order to protect the ignition coil, from excessive Heat and Destruction..............Some of the cylindrically shaped/oil filled Ignition Coils, had a Higher Resistance, on the Primary (low volts side)...for example, probably a bit higher than 3 Ohms, and, might not need a separate Ballast Resistor at all, seeing as how, the Primary Resistance was already adequate, for that particular ignition system/circuit..............To equal that, just higher than 3-Ohms, stand alone ignition coil, just mentioned, and using, something like, a slightly higher than, 1.5 Ohm (primary resistance) ignition coil, then, all we have to add (into the circuit), is a Ballast Resistor, that will make up, that Extra 1.5 Ohms, or a bit higher, that, when both added together, will equal that stand alone ignition coil's primary Resistance, that was just over, that, about 3 ohms, primary Resistance value.............Now why bother using a Ballast Resistor at all...???...well, here's probably why..............When the engine's Starter Motor is in operation, it can draw, up to about 200 Amps, give or take some, and then, the Voltage, will usually Drop down Lower, oh, maybe down to about 9 Volts (in a 12 Volt battery System), and, the Output, of that, just over 3-Ohm ignition coil, would probably be quite Weak, oh and, a Cold engine, needs all the help it can get, ignition-wise, that is...............Now then, by using a 1.5 Ohm ignition coil, "Without" the Ballast Resistor, in the Starting Circuit, then, this ignition coil's Output would probably be quite Strong, seeing as how it's only working with that, about 9 Volts, that's available, when the Starter Motor is workin'...............But, once the engine Starts, the ignition Key/Switch, then goes, into the "Run" position, and Adds-in the Ballast Resistor, in that (Run) Circuit, so once, Full Battery Voltage (and Amps) are available again (cuz, the starter motor is now ah-sleep...lol), and the (battery) charging system kicks in, we now have, just over 3 Ohms of Resistance, being the primary resistance of the ignition coil (1.5 ohms)...Plus...the Ballast Resistor's Resistance (1.5 ohms), added together, which ends up being about the same, as that, just above, 3 ohm ignition coil, which will keep the Amps, that are fed to the ignition coil, from getting too high, and the ignition coil, won't be getting too Hot, and going Kaput..............The above, is just an example, to hopefully, be of some help to You (I hope)...............Good Luck with Your project, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Nick McCullough....Thanks kindly, for your Awesome comment, my Friend....I just try to keep things simple, especially for someone that is just getting started...I had some phenomenal Mentors, and Teachers in the past, and, through my experience, while learning from them, they always took their time, and explained things, much like I do, to this day....Mothers out there, deserve so much more appreciation for what they have done, and what they do, for all of their children....Take care
Greetings Richard Norton....You are welcome, and, I'm glad that You liked what I had to show and tell, You and Others (in this video of mine), about, a rather simple way, that a Person can at least, Test and See, that, the particular Ignition Coil being Tested, doesn't have any "Open" or "Shorted"..."Windings" (aka, the 2 rather long wires that Form each Coil inside this type of ignition coil), when being Tested with an Ohm/Multimeter....This so called Ignition Coil Test (in this video), is really, only, the "Tip of the Iceberg", so to speak, as, Ignition Coils, can at times "Miss-Behave", when they "Heat-Up" to Operating Temperature (and that usually includes, that nice Hot engine compartment as well). It's also Very Important, that, "All" Wiring, and Wiring "Connections" be 100% Clean and Dry, or, Ignition Problems might start Happening! Like You, I do find it rather "Fascinating", that the Ignition Coil can actually "Change" the 12 Volts (or whatever the Battery Voltage happens to be in a particular Vehicle, with some having a 6 Volt Battery), and shall we say "Boost" that quite Low Battery Voltage, into a Voltage, that is usually in the "Thousands of Volts"...!!! Be Very Careful while being near any of that "High Voltage Electricity", while the Engine is Running, that comes out of the Ignition Coil, and any of the Ignition System's "Secondary Circuitry" (aka, spark plug "Wires/Leads"), because, if there happens to be a "Faulty" spark plug "Wire/Lead", that Very "High Voltage" can Really "Zap" You...!!! Also, "Watch Out" for any "Hot and Moving" Parts...!!! Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for adding to my knowledge, much appreciated, this was the only video that covered the entire spectrum, in basic and added advanced tips ,things i knew and things i learned. Save n for my references for for future refreshing memory,
Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and thanks, for your nice comment, and for, watching too...…….Even though, an ignition coil, might check out alright, and, it's within specifications, while doing a low and high ohms test, and is, at room temperature, for example, then, that's not always, a guarantee, that, it will work properly, when it heats up to operating temperature, where sometimes, a faulty, (older?) ignition coil, might not work properly, just so Ya know...……...There's a thing, usually called thermal cycling, where-by, something like, the ignition coil's windings, are kinda cool, temperature-wise, before the engine is started, then, once the ignition coil heats up to operating temperature (maybe even higher, due to engine compartment heat), with the engine running, then, let the expanding begin, then, the engine is shut down, then, all of those coil windings, do the contracting (shinking) thing, and, this, so-called, thermal cycling, pretty much happens, every time, that the engine gets started and stopped, over, and over again...……..Might be, that, the secondary coil windings, are about the same diameter (thickness), as a human hair, there-abouts, and, there are probably thousands of turns, that make up that very same, (secondary) coil (of windings)…!!!...Wowsers…!!!...lol...…….So, yeah, there can come a time, maybe, where an ignition coil, just, plain wears out, and probably applies more to, the oil filled (canister, type of) ignition coil, I be thinkin'...….and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow you have no idea how suprised i was ,to see a reply.. never expected ,nor thoughg of , for that matter. After reading, to discover, even more that i was unaware of.. amd for mynew recent learning. Thats what is comeimg in to play ,with my trouble shooting , you just saved me closee to half day of diginose in ,,,THANK YOU so much ,, Yaknow theirs alot of time ive wasted , problem solving,and that time i wont getpack.. its rare that im given time back ... so thx for give n me a day .. and knowinh how things are im sure,it wil, bewasted on another project, , lol. But not all of it lol. Lessons learned applied.. thx
Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and, it's good to know, that, some of this stuff, was able to help you out a bit...……..Try to keep all of the parts and pieces, that make up your vehicle's ignition system, in, as new, working condition, as well as, adjusted/set to specifications, as in, the spark plug's "gap", that's between those two electrodes (please note, that, some spark plug designs, are not "gapable/adjustable", or maybe, they could get damaged)…………Always use, an ignition coil, or coils, as the case may be, that have the same, "Exact Specifications", as the factory/manufacturer's "Original" one has...……..As an example, on some of the much older, cylindrically shaped, and filled with oil, ignition coils, there use-tah be, either, 1.5 ohms, or, 3 ohms, "Primary" resistance, and, the 1.5 ohm coil, would probably have had, a ballast resistor, in its electrical circuit, where-as, the 3 ohm coil, would have, probably not, used one at all...!!!...……….So yeah, always use the "correctly specified" ignition components, that, that particular vehicle's engine, calls for, and needs, and...…..till next time...…...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
chummel123 Greetings chummel123....Thanks for Your Great comment, and for watching as well, my Friend..........................................Most of the RUclips Videos, that I have made so far, are pretty much done, without a Script or Tele-Prompter, well, with the exception of the odd note, with some numbers/specifications, written on a piece of paper, and off to the side, from time to time, and out of the Camera's field of view, and, for the most part, once the Video Camera's Record Button gets pressed, then, what the Video Camera, is actually picking up, Audio-wise, as to what-ever it is, that I'm Saying, at any particular point in time, in any given Video, really is, shall we say..."Live"...well, at the point in time, that the Video Camera is actually Recording, that is............................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...sure, I'm gonna be makin' a Mistake here and there, and the evidence is readily, either, Heard or Seen, in any of my Videos, and, when-ever I happen to make, a, shall we say..."Boo-Boo"...then, there it is, but hey, that was pretty much my intention all along, and, I guess, that One could say, I'm just being "Real", as opposed to, all of that..."Glitz & Glam"...and that, shall we say..."Alternate Reality"...when-ever, You or I, happen to be "Immersed"...in a..."CGI-Like-Environment"...or the like.................................About the only Editing, that is done, to any of my RUclips Videos, would usually be that, of adding a Speech Bubble, every now and again, where I figure, any given Video, would benefit from having one or more of them, added to "It".............................Thanks again, for Your much appreciated comment...................Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+bargwahn89 ....Greetings bargwahn89....Thanks for the great comment, and, Thanks for watching too..................There appears to be..."No End in Sight"...when it comes to the Automobile, and other Things, that have Engines, in/on them as well, that's for sure (I think...???...lol)..................If You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, feel free, to post a comment or question, under any of my RUclips Videos, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+Cobby Sparks ....Greetings Cobby Sparks....Thanks for watching.................Well, I sure appreciate, what You said, about me, making a great teacher, and thanks kindly for that..................Even I'm kinda surprised, at how long I was talkin', in this RUclips, Ignition Coil Video of mine, and, perhaps it could very well be, as they say, as in..."Time really Flies"...!!!...lol.............If an Ignition Coil, Checks out Ok, Ohms/Resistance-wise, there can be times (rarely), where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-Up, and Not work so good, once it warms/heats up-to Operating Temperature, which might result in, some Ignition related Misfiring (basically, just means, that, the Air/Fuel Mixture, in any of the Engine's Cylinders, isn't Burning properly)....................Thanks again, for Your nice comment, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 1978 dodge pickup with a slant 6 that uses that exact same coil I've even seen other vehicles built in the early and middle 80's that still had that coil ignition system installed in them straight from the factory
Thanks for video. By chance I also have Dodge 360. I am not getting spark from coil. Replaced the coil, ballast resistor, and Ecm. Question: if the distributor is bad (no magnetic pick up signal sent to Ecm), could this prevent Ecm from ever sending spark signal to the coil? Thanks for any advice.
+john wright Greetings john wright....Thanks for watching, and Thanks, for Your very Appreciated comment, as well, my Friend............................We, just have to remember, to always "Check/Verify", the Ohm-Meter or Multi-Meter, for "O or Zero" Ohms/Calibration, especially so, when-ever, about to take/measure, those very "Low Ohms" Readings, on the Primary side, of an Ignition Coil, for Accuracy's sake, that's for sure.......................I should also add, that, even though a certain Ignition Coil, tests out OK, Ohms-wise, while usually being at about room temperature, there-abouts, there can be a times, where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-up, and, not work so well, or, maybe stop working all-together, once, that now (Ohms-Un-Detect-able), Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, or hotter...!!!.............................Just goes to show, that, "Ohm's Testing", an already used Ignition Coil, might not be, the, Be-All-End-All "Test", to confirm, it to be 100% Good and Functional, and, I guess, that, One could say, that, it's just one more, of "Life's"...little........................."Surprises"...lol........................Thanks again, and...........till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings San Ozi....You are welcome, and, thanks for your comment....For the most accurate reading/readings on both Digital, and Analogue (analogue meter has the needle pointer/indicator) Meters, it is usually best, to select the "Lowest-Range" that will still "Display" a proper reading, without having the Meter in question, going out of "Range"....Take my Yellow-Digital-Multi-Meter for example....If I select a Range that is too Low for the measurement that I'm trying to test...(con't)
thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I wonder about the ohm range, what is better to be in the hi end of the range to say this is a good coil or the other way around? as if i want to know if my car coil is going bad.
Stone Rinaldi Greetings Stone Rinaldi....You are Welcome, and, Thanks, for the nice comment, that You posted here, as well, my Friend........Well, this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video, sure turned out to be, Rather Long, Time-wise, that is, and, seeing as, I guess, One could say, that, "Time Fly's", as it really did, while I was Making this particular Video, and, even I was Surprised, when I looked at the, shall we say, "Running Time/Length", of this, perhaps, Too Long/total running time, Video of mine, had me Thinkin', for quite some time, that, perhaps, "I Really Should Make a Shorter Version", of this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video...and..."I DID"...lol..........................................It's on My RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow...and also, I Did Make, a "Shorter Version", of an "HEI" Ignition Coil Testing Video, as well ("HEI"...stands for, "High Energy Ignition", Distributor/System, that, GMC/General Motors, started to Install on Their Vehicles, starting, oh, about 1975, there-abouts), and, I'm currently, Making a RUclips..."Video Series"...about, just that (so far, I have made "3-Videos")...........Well, there You have it, for now, that is..............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Keith Nordquist....Thanks for the nice comment, my Friend, and, it's nice to know, that my Video was able to help you out as well....Just remember, that an Ignition Coil is just "One Part" of the entire Ignition System, as, it only takes "One" questionable (not so good) Wiring "Connection" to prevent your Ignition System from Functioning at its "Best!" (or, at all, for that matter). Take care, and, have a good one.
Those oil filled coils are great coils. Will last many years. They HAVE TO BE INSTALLED VERTICALLY OR STRAIGHT UP. Reason is yes they have oil inside that cools the wires. But there's an air bubble also inside. Which mounted sideways or horizontally, that air bubble uncovers some wire and the wire overheats. Which leads to the coil not working properly.
Greetings jim Davidson..................Thanks for watching...............I agree with You, about having, both, the Primary & Secondary Coil Windings, "Totally Submerged", in that, shall we call it, "Cooling Oil" alright, if possible, that is...................You'd think that, the Dodge, Factory/Folks, would think the same, as in "Vertically Mounting" the oil filled type of Ignition Coil, as in, the Secondary, High Voltage "Tower", pointing Up-Wards, towards the Sky, but, this particular oil filled Ignition Coil, that You saw, in this RUclips Video of mine, was Factory mounted, in the "Horizontal" position, at the back, and on top-of, the small block V-8's Intake Manifold, by means of a metal bracket........................This, slightly Leaking Oil, Ignition Coil of mine, was, and is, still Ok, but, I installed a brand spankin' New one, that I purchased, at a genuine, Dodge Dealership, back in the day.......................I recall, hearing-about, someone, who was sayin' that, when the (oil filled, type of) Ignition Coil (of his or hers) was Shaken, a quite pronounced, shall we say, "Sloshing Sound" was heard, which leads me, to be thinkin', that, our Friend, the "Air Bubble", just might be very BIG at that, and I hope not, cuz of, the increased possibility, of "it", perhaps Over-Heating, and going Kaput...!!!...Yikes...!!! (and, I'll even throw in a lol, just for good measure as well...lol).......................So then, assuming, that our (hypothetical & Imaginary), oil filled, type of Ignition Coil, happens to be "Vertically" mounted, with the Maximum amount of (cooling) Oil permissible, inside of it, is only the start (of things), as in, the Ignition Coil, has to be With-in the ohms/resistance "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and now the rest.................If the Ignition System/Circuit, happens to have, the good ole, oil filled type of Ignition Coil, along with, oh, lettuce say, it's the AC Delco, Points & Condenser, type of, V-8 Distributor (used, up-till, about 1974 there-abouts, that has that slide-up & down, sheet metal "window", on the distributor cap, that allows access, with a Hex/Allen-key, to adjust the points-dwell/gap), shall we, then, the Condenser (aka, Capacitor), that's usually Hiding-inside the distributor, under the distributor cap, has to have, the "Specified" Condenser (probably Rated in Micro-Farads), for that "Exact" Ignition System/Circuit as well, and there's even More, to all of this, as well (still Awake...???...lol).............If there happens to be a "Ballast Resistor" (Ceramic, or, Resistance Wire type, then "it" has to be With-n "Specifications" as well....................Now then, I'll end all of this Madness, with the Spark Plug's "Gap" (that's between the two Electrodes).................The Higher, the Engine's Compression Ratio, along with, a LARGER, spark plug "Gap", pretty much, makes it so, that, our, poor ole Ignition Coil, has to Work, all that much harder, seeing as how, it makes it, much more of a challenge, to be able to create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, now that, and as I mentioned before, about the Higher Compression Ratio, in conjunction with, that Increased, and quite LARGE spark plug "Gap", and, as I like to put it, is that, it Creates, quite the "Strain", on the Ignition Coil...!!!....and maybe, so much so, that, this particular Ignition Coil...gets...Over-Worked...and will probably...Over-Heat...and go..."Kaput"...!!! (aka, Non-Functional anymore).................Just thinkin'........some Folks, might just Install, an Ignition System, "Component/Part" or two, that might "Not-Be"...With-in "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and I'll even bet, that, so many of the Problems, that we hear-about, are probably, due to the "Miss-Matched" Ignition Parts, Not-Getting-Along-With-Each-Other, which will probably make-for, a Poorly Running Engine, or, an Engine, that might not even Start, when all's said and done...???...................So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Paul Brenton....Good job on your calculations....The Oil Filled Ignition Coils put out about 30,000 Volts Max, and the Epoxy type of Ignition Coils put out about 50,000 Volts Max (as I recall)....Although you may have primary and secondary resistances as measured at the Ignition Coil Terminals with an Ohm Meter, you can't use those figures to calculate the output voltage of the coil....The Voltage gets stepped up according to the Primary vs Secondary Windings Turns Ratio....(con't)...
Greetings anibalcarta....You're welcome, and thanks for your great comment as well...Seeing as how you have a "Timer" (not a distributor), and a single Lobe on the Timers shaft, and the fact that the 2 spark plugs fire at the very same time, has me thinking that the Timers shaft, should be turning at the same RPMs (Revolutions Per Minute) as the Crankshaft (as opposed to the conventional operational characteristics of the common Points style of Distributor for a 4-Stroke-Cycle Engine)...(con't)
Many thanks got the info I needed. As for the ignorant ones, he was probably thinking of you. Every body learns differently so he is explaining it for all the different levels of knowledge and learning capability. Didn't see you yobbos putting anything relevant up and it's easy to see how you were bought up
+Gavin Harrison ....Greetings Gavin Harrison....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for Your Great Comment, oh and, Thanks for watching as well, my Friend, and.......till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
good day sir, I really appreciate your answer, what about the coil itself if I may ask you, my coil spec say's its normal range is 8-14 K ohms and reading now 10.8 K ohms. if it's going bad (the coil) would the resistance increase the next time I measure it or decrease?
Greetings San Ozi....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thank You for your great comments....I'm glad that you were able to gain some knowledge from what you saw, and heard in my video....Here's an easy way to learn about different things that you may be interested in, and, want to learn, or learn more about....Here's what I have done for a very long time now....Simply listen to almost everything that anyone has to say, or show you, if it is safe, educational, and interesting to you....Take care
Greetings Ryan Taylor....Thanks for your comment, and, You are welcome....Yeah, I know, that some, if not most Folks these days are in somewhat of a hurry....Funny thing is, just recently, I was contemplating a "Short, and to the Point", making/re-making of some of the Videos that I have already made, and, also, some of the (in the Future) ones as well, for the Folks that are in that Hurry that I had mentioned....Coming soon, (maybe?), "Rockys-Drive-Thru!"...lol...Take care, and have a good one
Greetings Richard Huff....When you took your Ohm-Meter (Multimeter) readings, did you "Disconnect" the wiring that is connected to your Ignition Coil?....Because, if you didn't, that will probably change the reading/readings that you saw....Is your vehicle starting and running good?....There are a multitude of things that can effect how an ignition coil will perform, everything from your battery condition, charging circuit, ignition switch, ballast resistor or resistance wire,....(con't)...
Greetings...Brad Miller...............Thanks for watching..............Well, I did make a "Shorter" Version of this particular video, some time ago, and its running time, is about 8 minutes & change (damn, almost down to the 5 minutes that You mentioned...!!!...lol)..............Just make sure, that, when-ever taking an Ohm-Reading, on the Low/Primary side of the Ignition Coil, that, the Ohm-Meter, is Tested for 0/Zero Calibration before-hand, and if it shows anything above 0/Zero Ohms on the Low Scale, when the 2 Ohm-Meter's Probes are connected together, then, that Figure, (if applicable), has to be accounted for, otherwise, there might be a possible situation, where-by, a good Ignition Coil, may appear to be, "not with-in", the Manufacturer's Specifications, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Different people have seen this video & some of them don't know about most of the information you explained in this video , so it must take more minutes ,therefore this video deserve time which is taken
Good video and explanation of how an ohmmeter works...and forgive me if you mentioned this and I missed it but how do I know if the coil is bad..ie, what readings should be expected when the coil is working/not working. etc? Thank you.
Greetings...Mark h............Thanks for the nice comment, and Thanks, for watching too...........No need to worry about, using, the forgive word, at all, cuz, I'm only too happy, to share with others, what I might know...???...about certain things, and, when it comes right down to it, then, Cars and Trucks, have been, one of my top hobbies, for quite some time now...............The testing of, both, the Primary, and Secondary windings (coils of wire), contained with-in, most, of the common ignition coils, is just telling us, that, both coils of wire (windings), are pretty much, Ok, as long as those Ohms (resistance) readings, are with-in the Manufacturer's "Specifications", for that "Exact" ignition coil, but, a Person, should also keep in mind, that, this "Test", is usually only done, when the ignition coil, is in its "Cool State", temperature-wise, that is...............Although, an ignition coil, might Ohms Test "Ok", while Cool, then, there can be times, where a "Faulty" ignition coil, might, shall we say, will "Start to Act Up" (aka, malfunction), when it gets Warmer/up to operating temperature, and, sometimes, it can result in, an Ignition (system) related "Misfire" (that be, where the compressed, Air/Fuel Mixture, that's inside of, one or more, of the engine's cylinders, Does-Not Burn properly, if at all, and, is sometimes, caused by, one or more spark plugs, that never went "Spark", at that particular time), and sometimes, it might be a Faulty ignition coil, or maybe, it could be something else, as in, ignition system related (cap, rotor, spark plugs, or spark plug wires, if applicable, that is), or perhaps, it might be fuel system related, possibly (gotta remember now, Both, the Ignition system, and, the Fuel system, have to be Working, really good, as a "Team", so to speak, or, if not, then, the Engine, will probably, start to Run, not so good, or might, not even start)............An ignition coil's (2) windings (or, coils of wire), will usually Contract/shrink (when cool), and will probably Expand, some-what (while in operation), and, from what I recall, the term for that, might be called, Thermal-Cycling...............I'm thinkin,' that, all of that, Expanding and Contracting, of the ignition coil's wire/windings, will probably shorten the life-span, of an ignition coil, some-what, quite possibly, but, there are many other things, that can also, shorten the working life of an ignition coil as well..............If something like, one or more spark plug Wires, get broken, or disconnected, then, the ignition coil, will usually, just try to, increase its Power Output, to..."Infinity-and-Beyond"...as in, a Much Higher than wanted, Secondary High Voltage, from the ignition coil, and, will usually Rise-Up, way too High, and put such a Strain, on that poor ole ignition coil, that, it will probably get Over-Stressed, and will probably, Destroy itself...Yikes...!!!.................Spark Plug "Gaps", that are Too BIG, and/or, the Higher, the engine's Cylinder Pressure gets (a high performance engine, for example), will also, make it so, that, the ignition coil has to Work, all that Much Harder as well...............It's also, a good idea, to, Check/Ohms-measure, the Resistance Values, of, things like, Spark Plugs, as well as, all of the spark plug Wires (if applicable, that is), cuz, Too Much Resistance, in the Secondary/High Voltage side, of the ignition system, will probably, make, our poor ole ignition coil, Work, way Harder, than it usually, has to be doing...................The are a few, not too expensive (20 Dollars maybe?)..."Spark Testers"...that can be used, to Test an ignition coil's, High Voltage Output (as in, Stress Testing, an ignition coil)...............Some of the Spark Testers have a Fixed "Gap", between the 2 Electrodes, and, I've also seen, an "Adjustable", type of Spark Tester as well...............Just make sure, that, the "Gap", that's between the 2 Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, is, Set for, the "Correct" Gap, that's Needed/Specified, for the "Exact", ignition coil, that's about to be Tested...!!!...(or "it" might, get Over-Stressed, and possibly Damaged)..............The ignition coil, has to work much harder, as in, much Higher Voltage is needed, to, initiate/create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, while being inside of, an engine's Cylinder, that's, under a Lot of "Pressure", as compared to, just having a spark plug, go Spark, while, out in the Open air/atmosphere, and that's why, You'll probably be seeing, quite a "BIG Gap", in a "Spark Tester", as compared to, that, rather "small" Gap, that You'll usually be seeing, Between the spark plug's Electrodes...............When-ever, replacing an ignition coil, make sure, that, the Ohms/Resistance, for both, the Primary/Low Ohms, and, the Secondary/High Ohms, are With-in, the "Exact Specifications" (Manufacturer's or other-wise), and are, the Same as, the Original ignition coil, cuz, if not, well, might end up being, a Weak spark, at the spark plugs, or maybe, an ignition coil, that Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, and I hope not........and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...here are some starting circuit basics for you....The vehicles battery has to be fully charged, and in good condition....All wiring and connections have to be in good condition, clean and tight...The ignition switch (the thing-ah-ma-bob that you put your ignition key into) has to be in good operating condition, and not worn out...There is also usually an ignition Solenoid either mounted on the starter motor, or mounted separately, usually somewhere in the vehicles engine compartment...(con't)
maineville prepper Greetings maineville prepper....Thanks kindly, for Your nice comment, and for what You had to say, about the older Lawn Tractor's Ignition system................................................I'm thinkin', that, pretty much, just about any of the Ignition Coils, that were found on "Gasoline"..."Internal Combustion Engines"...(Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, Steam Engines, need not apply...!!!...lol)...could, for the most part, be "Tested" for "Resistance/Ohms Readings", much like I have, in this Ignition Coil Testing, RUclips Video of mine, as long as, the "Ignition Coil" in question has..."2-Primary-Terminals"...and a..."High Output Voltage"..."Tower"...much like, that of what You "See", in this Video of mine....................................................A Person, that might be Testing, any "Ignition Coil", that happens to be on Our Planet to date, should be aware of, the..."Many Differences"...in, what they are Expected to Do/Perform (as in, shall we say, the "Amount" of High Secondary Voltage Output, as an example), and also, the way in which "They" are "Constructed" (as in, Shape, Size, Oil or Epoxy, that is surrounding, all of those, many turns of, usually made of Copper, wire "Windings", that make up, both the Primary and Secondary "Coils", that are usually found, and are Contained with-in, that there Hypothetical/Imaginary Ignition Coil)...........................................................I'll now mention, a few things off the top of my head......................................................There were..."6-Volt"...and..."12-Volt"..."Ignition Coils" (as well as, "6-Volt" and "12-Volt"..."Batteries", that usually went along with them), and also, the "Vehicles"..."Ground"...System, should be "Checked" as well, as, some of the Older Vehicle's "Chassis/Frame", as far as I recall, had what was referred to as "Positive Ground" (+ or Plus Sign), as opposed to, the..."Negative Ground" (- or Minus Sign) System, that, for the most part, can be found on the "Newer" Vehicles, on just about any Street in North America these days.....................................................Usually, the "Oil Filled" Ignition Coils, were, well, kinda held back, from..."Outputting" as High of a "Secondary High Voltage", as compared to something like, the General Motors..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor Unit/System, that used an "Epoxy" type of Ignition Coil............................Why You ask...???.........................Well, there was usually, what is known, as a..."Ballast Resistor" (could be in the form of a Ceramic/Porcelain Block, if You will, or, in the case of the General Motors rendition, there-of, it could also be in the form of a "Special Resistance Wire" as well)............................These "Ballast Resistors", were usually found, in the wiring circuit, just before the Ignition Coil Itself, and, they usually "Reduced" the "Battery Voltage" quite a bit, so the Ignition Coil "Would-Not-Burn-Up", and in the case of a "Points Type" of Distributor, it would also, prevent the "Ignition/Breaker Points"...from..."Electrically Arcing" too much, which would usually result in "Ignition/Breaker Points", that, shall we say..."Wore-Out", way too fast...!!!............The "Oil Filled" type of Ignition Coil Systems, some being "Points Type", and also "Electronic Type" as well, that I've worked on, would usually have a Spark Plug "Gap", of about .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch)...where as, on some of the "HEI" Distributor Systems, I've worked on, I had to "Gap" the Spark Plugs at .080"...!!! (that be, Eighty Thousandths of an inch..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...!!!)..............................................Always "Check" the "Specifications", and the Factory Recommended Procedure/Method, that applies "Exactly" to the "Ignition Coil", and to that of the "Ignition System" that You, or Anyone happens to be working on, both for "Getting it Right, the First Time", as well as..."Doing it Safely as well"..............................................One last thing...............Even though an "Ignition Coil"..."Checks Out OK"...Resistance/Ohms-wise..with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, while being fairly Cool, so to speak, there can be times, and quite rarely as well, where an "Ignition Coil" can start "Acting-Up", as in..."Operating Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...once that Ignition Coil, or, Ignition Coils, as the case may be...get Up-To..."Operating Temperature" (like when the Engine is all fully warmed up), so, please, always keep that in mind, just in case........................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Joseph Ficker....You are welcome, and, Thanks for your kind words as well....This particular Ignition Coil Testing video was my first one....I have since made a much "Shorter Version", on how to test that very same Ignition Coil, and, for what it's worth, I thought that I just might mention that....If you care to, I have quite a few Videos pertaining to Automotive stuff, that you might be interested in, on my RUclips Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...in the Search Box, at the top of RUclips's Main Page....That, my Friend, should bring up a Listing of the 70-odd Videos that I have available, at this point in time...Enjoy....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
He's wearing high heels during this. The "make spagbol for tea" video takes 2 days, and is in 4 parts. Seriously though, I do like your approach - very relaxing.
Thanks for your video. I understand how you can read the primary side of the coil with the ohmmeter, but how is it that you can get a reading on the secondary side? I thought the primary and secondary windings were isolated from each other?
Greetings R Ward....You are welcome, and, thank You, for watching and commenting on my Ignition Coil (oil filled type) Testing video....Both the "Primary" and "Secondary" Coils (2 sets of wire windings to form each individual coil) contained inside this particular type of ignition coil, "Do Share", "1" of the Threaded (aka, screw thread) Terminals with the small (threaded) Nut that protrudes through the top of this ignition coil....The Primary Coil's ohm reading is really quite easy to understand, as, with connecting the "2" (screw threaded) Primary Terminals to the ohm/multimeters test probes/aligator clips, are actually the "2-Ends" of the Primary Coil itself... ...where-as... ...when it comes to the "Secondary" Coil, "1" end of it gets connected to "1" of the screw-threaded "Posts", that it "Shares" with one end of the "Primary" coil windings ends, and, the "Other End" of that "Secondary Coil" gets connected to the "Secondary" Tower (where the ignition wire gets connected to, in the top center of this ignition coil, and goes to the center of the distributor cap)... ...now it really gets interesting (almost like Rocket Science!...lol)... ...if You, or I, can figure out just which of those "Primary" threaded terminals that "1" end of the "Secondary" Coil gets connected to, and take an ohm reading from there, and hook the other test lead to the Secondary "Tower", I'm quite sure that we would be getting a pretty accurate ohm reading... ...but, wait a minute now (say what?)... ...seeing as how only "1" end of the Secondary Coil's Ends gets connected to "1" of the Primary Terminal "Posts"...What About The "OTHER" primary terminal (screw) threaded "Post", not having the Secondary Coil connected to it, in any way what-so-ever?... ...and... ...how the heck, are we able to obtain a Secondary Coil "Ohm-Reading", when we connect an ohm/multimeter test lead to the threaded Primary Terminal that the darn Secondary Coil "Is-Not" even connected to???... ...(time for some form of investigation, don't-cha think?)... ...here's what I came up with, and, I may have learned something in the process as well (see that, "Miracles" really can happen!!!...lol)... ...Hmmmmm...I figure that, the Reason that we are able to Obtain any "Secondary" Coil "Ohm-Reading" at all, while hooking up one of the ohm/multimeters test leads to that "Primary" threaded terminal, that the Secondary Coil "IS-NOT" connected to, is because, You, or I, and maybe others too, are "Actually", Ohm's/Resistance Measuring the Secondary Coil "THROUGH" the Primary Coil as well... ...but why... ...aren't we "Seeing" an "Increase" in the Ohm's Reading, if we are "Including" the Primary Coil in the very same "Test Circuit", when we are "Testing" the Secondary Coil in this manner?... ...I reckon that... ...seeing as how the Primary Coil Only measures the maximum of about "2" Ohms, that My Ohm/Multimeter, when on the "HIGH" Ohm's Range (or resolution), "WON'T" be able to Display, that very "Small" (about 2 Ohm's max.), and I say again, when the Ohm/Multimeter's Dial is set for a very "High-Range", and in those very High, "Thousands of Ohm's!!!" So then, as I see it, without even realizing it, we can actually "Include" the Primary Coil, when we only want to measure the Secondary Coils Ohm reading, but wait, there's even more!... ...how about this scenario... ...let's say, for instance, that the Primary Coil is "Fried" (aka, non functional, with no ohm's reading showing what-so-ever on the ohm/multimeter), and... ...then, we happen to measure the Secondary Coil through the Primary threaded Terminal that "Does-Not" have one end of the Secondary Coil ends connected to it, then what... ...Hmmmmmmm...I be thinkin that we "Would-Not" be seeing any Ohms at all on that Ohm/Multimeter Display for the Secondary Coil...cuz...we "Need" to have a "Good" and working Primary Coil to complete the "Test Circuit", when we are "Going Through" the Primary Coil, in order to Test the Secondary coil in the previously described manner... ..so then... ...is it, ''Clear-as-Mud?"...lol... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
***** Greetings Romy Nacido....Thanks-ah-Bunch for watching, and for, Your comment as well.............................................."Woah-Nelly"...Slow that darn...too "Fast"...of a..."Horse"...that You're "Ridin'-On"..."Down"...cuz...I-be-Hearin'...that...that there..."New Sheriff"...in Town...is no longer..."Tackin'-Up"..."Wanted Posters"...but...the..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...are Keepin' a Close Eye, on, that there..."Dust Trail"...that, that there..."Too Fast"...of a "Horse"...that...Yur-Ridin'...keeps-on-Leavin'...and...Yew...keeps-on-Breakin'...that there..."Town's Speed Limit"...and...Yew-can-only-gets-away-with-that-there..."Speed-Limit-Breakin'-of-Yers"...fer...Only-So-Long...B-fer...that there..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...Pulls-Yew-and-Yur-too-Fast-Horse-on-Over...and...don't-chew-be-sayin'..."I Don't-be-Warnin'..."Yew"...wen..."Yew-Gets-that-thar"..."Speedin'-Ticket"...!!!.................................................(or, in other words)....................................................Please, don't "Rush" Things, cuz, like that ole Saying goes..."Haste Makes Waste"...as in, You might "Damage" some of Your Vehicle's "Parts"...and..."Even Worse"...when-ever, almost "Anyone" is in a..."Rush"...that will sometimes..."Result in"...a "Person getting Injured"...!!!...............................................................Even though, the particular "Ignition Coil, or Coils" (if that be the case), do happen to "Check Out Alright", in You Vehicle...and are..."Passing"...the, shall we say..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (2 Sets of Coil-Windings, that are contained Inside the Coil's Housing)..."Low and High Ohm's readings"...that fall with-in, the..."Specifications"..for Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil or Coils"...is..."Only One"..."Thing"...that will Indicate, weather or not, "Both" the..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (with-in the Ignition Coil, as a Whole Unit)..."Are Not"..."Shorted Out"...or, have a, shall we say..."Open" (circuit)...as in, a..."Break"...in..."Any"...of the "Primary or Secondary"..."Coil Windings"...!!!...................................................................There, can be times, that, quite..."Rarely"...that, an..."Ignition Coil"...can "Start to"..."Act-Up"...when "It", and the Engine..."Reach Operating Temperature"...and, one of those Problems, that comes to mind (mine, that is)...is, that, the..."Engine Loses Power"...and, might even..."Miss-Fire" (ignition related), when, the..."Engine is Under a Load" (and not, just Cruising Along), and, the Same Scenario, can also be confused with, a "Fuel System Problem" as well...just sayin'..............................................................Make sure, that the Engine is "Cold, and Not Running", when-ever, Doing any Work or Testing, anywhere in the Engine Compartment, and, Keep the Ignition Key, In Your Pocket, or Purse, if applicable...!!!.....................................................The "Wiring", that is..."Connected To"...the Ignition Coil/Coils...."Terminals"...will usually, have to be..."Disconnected"...while doing the...Ignition Coil's..."Primary and Secondary"..."Resistance Readings" (aka, Ohm's Readings), or, the..."Ohm's readings"..."might Not be very Good, or Accurate"...!!!....................................................Another, good ole Saying, and, is quite applicable, in this circumstance, as well, happens to be..."The Chain, is Only as Strong as, the Weakest Link"...!!!..................and, here's why, I like to use, that good ole Saying................................................."All" of the..."Ignition System's"...Wiring...the Ignition Switch...an Ignition Relay (if so equipped)...and any...Terminals, on any of the Ignition System's Component/Parts...which should also Include..."All", of the Connectors at the "Ends" of, any of the Ignition Related "Wires/Wiring"...have to be..."100%", the "Best", that they can be, in order to Provide, the "Best Path"...for any, and all, of the..."Electrical Voltage & Current"...that..."Travels"...Through-out...the Vehicle's..."Ignition System Circuitry"...!!!.............................................Check "All Connections"...for..."Moisture"..."Corrosion"..."Oxidation"..."Oil-like Coating"...etc., which will usually..."Not be so Good"...of a..."Path"...for, Both the...Ignition System's..."Low and High Voltage Electricity"...to...be "Trying" to "Travel Through"...!!!...................................................Remember now..."Slow Down"...or...that there..."Sheriff, and his Posse"...is gonna...be-Givin'...Yew and Yer Horse...that there..."Speedin' Ticket"...!!!...lol......................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Bigmack73.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Make sure to use the "exact" ignition coil, for your vehicle, or, there might be a problem..........With the older cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, there were basically, two different, low ohms "specifications", on the primary (low ohms) side, of those two sample ignition coils.........Could be, a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, that, also had to have, a "ballast resistor" connected to it, or, it would probably "over-heat", and destroy itself...!!!..........Then, there could be a 3 ohm ignition coil (measured on the primary/low side), that "did not", need a ballast resistor, connected to it at all..........So, always make sure, to install the "exact"..."Specified"...ignition coil, for the vehicle in question, to avoid any problems or expense, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Rocky, I notice you are using an Equus multimeter. What model is it? I like that it measures dwell. I am working on a simple ignition system from the 70's, and that meter looks like it would cover it all ( dwell, resistance, voltage etc. ) without being too much. Cheers, Stephen
Soula Tyrteos Greetings Soula Tyrteos....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment/Question as well...............................................I just had a look-see, at my...Automotive Specific...Yellow Multi-Meter...and, the..."Model Number"...that I see on it, is...70-4369..................................................I'm not all that sure, if "They", still make this particular "Model", as, I think, that it was about, oh, maybe...10 Years ago, give or take a few Years, that, I stumbled upon it, at a local Canadian Tire Store, in the Automotive section, locked up, behind a pair of glass doors, in a display cabinet, and, I had to go "Find", the Person, that worked in the Store, that was able to get the "Key"...to..."Unlock"...the..."Locked"...Glass Doors...!!!...lol...............................If memory serves me right, I believe that I paid about...$85.00 (Canadian Dollars), before taxes, for "It", way back when.......................................................Now then, just remember to "Check" the "Calibration", on the "Low Ohm's Scale", whenever You happen to be taking a Measurement, of a "Low Resistance" Component or Circuit, as, Unlike a good ole "Analogue" Meter or Multimeter (You know, the kind of Meter, that has a "Needle/Pointer" that waves at You, when You put it to use), as, from my experience, using them, they usually had, a rotary "Adjusting" knob, or Thumb/Finger Wheel (potentiometer, or Pot, for short), to..."Zero-Set" (aka, Set to Zero)...the "Needle/Pointer/Indicator", on any of the Ohm's Scale/Ranges, Before, I went ahead, and made those "Ohm's/Resistance" Measurements, with the Probes, as opposed to this "Digital Readout"...Yellow Multi-Meter, of mine, that is shown, in some of my RUclips Videos..."Not Having"...a..."Zero Adjustment"...provision on it...!!!....................................................In the event, that, You are not able to find, this particular Model, of Automotive Type of Multimeter, it's just a matter of, keeping a Eye (more like an Eagle Eye...!!!...lol) out, for, an Automotive Type of Multimeter, that will suit Your needs, and, Wallet as well....................................................Good Luck, with "Finding", an Automotive Type of Multimeter, that will get the Job Done................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle ....Greetings Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle....Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...................There's even more, beyond, just Ohm/Resistance testing an Ignition Coil, as well...................There can be the odd time, where an Ignition Coil Checks-out Ok, Ohms-wise, but, once it/the Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, it might not work so good....................Also, if the Wrong Ignition Coil gets installed, its Specifications, might not be Correct, for that particular Ignition System, and, might result, in having a Weak Spark, or maybe even having, some of the Ignition Components get Damaged......................If an Ignition Coil gets Charged-Up, with too many Amps of electricity, for too many Milli-Seconds (One Milli-Second = One Thousandths of a Second, time-wise), on its Primary side, during its, shall we say, Charge-Up Cycle, then, that in-itself, has the potential, to probably Fry the Ignition Coil Windings, and, a Burned-Out Ignition Coil, it will usually be....................Once a Person, kinda understands, how, a good ole "Points and Condenser" type of Distributor...Ignition System (up, till about 1974 there-abouts) operates/functions, oh, and, there was "No Computer" anywhere in sight, back in those days, then, as I've found (for myself, that is), is that, by having a basic understanding, as to, how the older Points & Condenser (distributor) Ignition System actually works, I find it, so much easier, to kinda comprehend, as to how, a Computer Controlled Ignition System operates, along with, what the Roles are, for all of the Sensors and Actuators, that go along with it (I hope...lol).....................So then, there You have it, well, for now that is, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Ravi Diasabeygunawardena Greetings Ravi Diasabeygunawardena....You are welcome, and, thanks kindly, for Your Great comment too!..........................................It's good to hear, that, You were able to use some of the Information, in this RUclips Video of mine, that was able to help You out, somewhat................................................By Testing, just about any Ignition Coil, with an Ohm Meter/Multi-meter, is, as I see it, just a "Preliminary" (aka, as in an Initial, and, Not-so-Complete) Test, so to speak, as, at times, an Ignition Coil, may appear to be Faulty, and Not be Working, all that well, or, even, Not at all, and could be either, the Ignition Coil Itself, and/or, could also be, any of the Related Wiring or Electrical Circuitry, that is part and parcel, of the Ignition System, as a Whole (aka, Total, of "All" Ignition System "Related" Parts and Pieces)........................................................Sometimes, an Ignition Coil, can become, Not Working very good, or, might even stop working, maybe even causing some..."Ignition Related"..."Miss-Firing" as well, when it Heats Up, and, Breaks Down, under a Loaded (aka, perhaps, a High Demand of its Output) Operating Condition......................................................So then, let's assume that, the Ignition Coil is in "100% (One Hundred Per-Cent) Working Order", then, any, and..."All Other"..."Ignition System Related"..."Components"..."Circuitry"..."Switches"..."Wiring"...etc., have to be in "100%"..."Working Order"..as well, or, we just might end up with...a Car or Truck, that, might..."Not Start"..."Have a Difficult Time Starting, either Hot or Cold, or, maybe Both"..."Start to Miss-Fire" (Ignition System-wise), and, from what I have seen over the years, I've come to the Point, and, train of thought, that..."I Assume Nothing"...and..."Never Rule Anything Out"...because, even when I thought, that I've seen "Everything"...there are, at times, a..."Thing or Two"...that have..."Shown Up"...that was "Totally Unexpected", and from my perspective..."Un-Thought-of"...as well..."Yikes"..!!!...lol......................................................Here's a pretty good "One", that happened to "Me", quite a few Years ago......................................................When the Engine (350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8, with an Oil Filled ignition coil, that was controlled by, a points & condenser distributor) was "Cold", I Start it up, and Drive away...and...all seems to be alright...then...oh, about 1/2 Mile from Home, the Engine just "Quits, and Stops Running"...!!!...................................................I manage to coast it over to the side of the Road, and park the Car.....................................................I try to Re-Start the Engine...No Luck.....................................................I then wait, oh, about 5 to 10 Minutes, and then, try to Re-Start the Engine...and..."It"..."Starts Right Up", and I Drive away, and the Engine Runs, as if...there "Never Was a Problem" at All..!!!............................................During some Other times, the Engine would Run very good, for hours even...................................................Then, one time, I recall, just Cruising along, then, the Engine, just goes..."Silent"...for a few Seconds...and then..."It"...Starts Running "Again", as though "It" Never went "Silent" at all, in the first place...!!!.........................................I was Convinced, that, it was something to do with the "Fuel System", because, usually, if a person were to Turn Off the Ignition, and seeing how this Chevy V-8 Engine had a Carburetor on It, had me thinkin', that, once the Ignition started "Sparking" again (after Not Sparking, for those Few Seconds), I was also thinkin', that, there should have been some "Raw" (Un-Burned) Air/Fuel Mixture, as supplied by the Carburetor, when the Ignition System, was in the "Off", as in, "Not Operating" at that particular point in time, and, once the Ignition System Began "Sparking Again", I was quite sure, that, the Engine should have had, a nice Big "Back-Fire",Through the Exhaust System, due to, what I thought, would be the Result, of all of that Raw/Un-Burned Gasoline/Air Mixture, getting "Zapped", with that..."Working Again"...and shall I say, at times..."Intermittent"...Ignition System, that I had back then...!!!...................................................Now then, can You "Guess", what was "Causing" all of this "Ghost-Like-Engine-Operation"...???....................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, when I Finally, got to the point, of, Removing the "High Tension Lead/Wire" (just a fancy name for the spark plug-like wire/lead) that "Connects" the (oil filled type) "Ignition Coil's Output Tower Connection/Terminal"....to the..."Center Tower Connection/Terminal, of the Distributor Cap", here's what I "Found" (aka, Discovered).......................................When I looked Down, Inside the High Tension..Lead/Wire's, rubber-like Boot...to look at, the Wire/Lead End Terminal (made of Brass), that supposedly, "Is"..."Supposed to"...be..."Crimped/Connected" to the Lead/Wire's...Internal "Core Conductor"...what I saw, was, that, the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core had..."Arced Away" (aka, Electrically "ERODED") away, from the Brass "Terminal", leaving a "Big Gap", between the Lead/Wire's "Conductive Core", and the "Brass End Terminal", there-for, as I see it, that Very High Ignition Coil's Voltage, was Forced to Jump that "Big Gap", that "Should Not" have been there in the first place...!!!.............................................Yes, indeed, it was rather difficult, to actually Imagine, that, that Quite Large Gap, between the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core, and the Brass End Terminal, could Actually "Cause", that, shall I say..."Very Weird"..."Sometimes Intermittent"...Chevy V-8 Engine..."Behavior"...that I Actually Experienced...!!!......................................................Once I Replaced that "Faulty" High Tension Lead/Wire, that went Between the (oil filled) Ignition Coil, and the Distributor Cap, it was like, I just Installed...an, as New, just broken in, Rebuilt Engine, that, Ran "Super-Duper"..."Yipee"...!!!...lol..............................................So, as You can now see, just when "I" think, that I've "Seen-It-All".."I"..."Have-Not", and that's the way..."The Old Ball Bounces"...weather "I' like it, or not...!!!....lol..........................................Thanks again, for watching, my Friend.................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Kosta Dinos………….Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….I've learned even more stuff about automotive ignition coils, since I made this one, and, maybe, sometime in the future, I might do, a, shall we say, updated video, perhaps, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Aaron Johnson..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching............Although, an Ignition Coil, will Ohms/Resistance Test Ok, there can be times, where, they can start to act strangely, or, might even quit working, once they get up to operating temperature, or maybe, even hotter..............Maybe, do an internet search, for an (ignition coil) "Spark Tester" (some are even adjustable), cuz, by having a Very LARGE Gap, between the two electrodes, on the Spark Tester, then, that will, shall we say, "Stress Test", that particular Ignition Coil, pretty much meaning, that, the Ignition Coil's...Secondary High Voltage...will try to go...High Enough...and be able to, shall we say..."Jump/Spark, Between that LARGE Gap"...that's between the Spark Tester's, two electrodes..............That LARGE Gap/Distance, between the Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, will usually require, that, a certain amount of "Kilo-Volts" (as in, Thousands of Volts), that, that particular "Gap Size" requires, (in open air/atmosphere), as a minimum, for the ignition coil to produce, in order, to be able to, make the Jump, or, probably, No-Spark, will be seen at all..............Also, that "LARGE Gap", has to be the "Correct" Gap/Distance, for the "Exact" Ignition Coil, that is being (stress) Tested, at that particular time, as, we really don't want to "stress test" any ignition coil, up to the point of..."Infinity and Beyond"...!!! (so to speak), cuz, if that were to happen, then, that particular Ignition Coil, might get Damaged...not good at all.............Let's say, that the High Tension Lead/Wire was Not Connected to the Secondary, High Voltage Tower/Terminal, of an Ignition Coil, like the one that's being shown in this Video of mine, while it was Operating, then, its Secondary High Voltage, would probably try to get High enough, to make the "Jump", to, a too Far away ground source, and, if left in this condition long enough, then, that poor ole Ignition Coil, would probably Over-Heat itself, and go Kaput/Fry itself, so, make sure that, All of the spark plug "Wires", are in Good Condition, and, are All Connected properly, so the Ignition Coil will be Happy, and will also, last a very long time, hopefully, that is, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi! Thanks for the video. Question...where can I get the resistance specs for a coil out of a 1967 Ford Mustang 289. It's no where to be found in my Chilton book. Thank you,
Ryan Jones Greetings Ryan Jones....Thanks for watching, now, onto, Your Mustang's, Ignition Coil..."Specifications" (Ohms/Resistance)..............................I looked around, quite a bit, on the good ole Internet, trying to find, that/those, oh so elusive, Ohms/Specifications, for Your Stang's Ignition Coil, and, after doing so, I came to the conclusion, that I'd probably have a much better chance, at..."Winning the Lottery"...then stumbling onto Your particular, Ignition Coil...Ohms/Specifications...!!!...lol...but, fear not, as my Chrystal Ball, hasn't failed me yet...!!!...............................I did a "Cross-Reference", of Your "Factory/Stock" Ignition Coil, and, low and behold, it appears that, Your 289's, "Stock/Factory"...Ignition Coil, was used on quite a few, of the Other, Brands/Manufacturers "Engines" as well...!!! (how about that...lol)..............................I did see how-ever, a few Different "Ohms Ranges, for an Ignition Coil, such as Yours..................................Without any Wiring Connected, to the Ignition Coil, here's what I would be looking for..................For the "Primary" Measurement...1 to 2 Ohms...should be alright........and..........for the "Secondary" Measurement, there was quite a Range, seeing as how, each Manufacturer, seemed to have, Their Own Way of Doing Things...and...I saw, that these Ranges were, With-in, anywhere from...6,000...to...15,000...Ohms.............If You really want to find the "Exact Ohms Specifications", for Your Ignition Coil, You might have some luck, finding those Ohms-Specifications, on one, or perhaps more, of the Many..."Ford Mustang"...or...on any Ford Car or Truck..."Websites"...that, will usually have, some very helpful/knowledgeable Folks, on their (website) "Forums", where You can Ask "Them", if they have the Ohms/Specs, for Your "Exact" Ignition Coil"...???..............................I have found that, an actual "Official, Factory Chassis Service Manual", usually had, the "Ohms Specifications", for Ignition Coils, as well as, something like the "Ballast Resistor"..."Ohms Specification", that usually is, part of the Ignition Circuit, if it happens to be, the good ole "Points and Condenser", type of Distributor, that is...............................One or more People, on those Website "Forums", just might have, a..."Factory/Ford...Chassis Service Manual"...for a..."1967 Mustang"...and...He/She, might just have, Your particular...Ignition Coil's..."Ohms Specifications"...that, hopefully, "They" will Share with You (keeping fingers crossed)...................................................Even though, an Ignition Coil "Tests OK"...Ohms/Resistance-wise...that, my Friend, might not, Tell the Whole Story, as, sometimes, quite Rarely, when an Ignition Coil, reaches Operating Temperature (or Hotter), that hypothetical, Ignition Coil, can "Act-Up", as in, Not Work, all that good, or maybe Intermittently, or in a worst case scenario....Not at All...!!!....Yikes...!!!...............Also..."Everything"...that is Part of the Ignition System's "Circuit", that be-in, All Wiring, and Components/Parts as well, have to be in, Very Good/almost like New Condition, so, Your Mustang's...289 V-8, is able to give You Great Performance, and, if You go Easy on the Gas Pedal, some pretty good, Gas Mileage as well............................If Your 289, still has that good ole "Points & Condenser", style/type of Distributor in/on it, then, the "Points, and the Condenser", must be in Good Shape, as well as, have the "Points...Gap/Dwell"...Adjusted/Set-to..."Specifications", and, after doing that, Your "Initial Ignition Timing" (on the Engine's Timing Tab/Indicator), has to be..."Checked, and (most likely), Set/Re-Set"...to..."Specifications"...So Your 289, doesn't get Lazy, or Damaged...!!!.........................If You need any help or advice, just let me know, about Your 1967 Mustang, and also, if it has any Modifications..............Well.......Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Hugh Griffith..................Thanks for Your nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too.................Although an Ignition Coil, was able to Pass the Ohms (resistance) Test, with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, then, that, in itself, isn't a Guarantee, that, that particular Ignition Coil will be working 100%, when asked to do so................Sometimes, when an Ignition Coil (that tested good, for ohms/resistance, at, about room temperature, there-abouts), seems to be alright, might, while in operation, and reaches Operating Temperature (or maybe hotter?), then, it's possible (rarely, that is), that, this particular (faulty, when warm) Ignition Coil, might start to act, kinda, strange/weird, and might be the cause, of some Ignition system Misfiring, and maybe, stop working all-together, perhaps...................Just keep in mind, that, all it takes, is, one small, "Faulty/not so good", Wiring Connection (as in, oxidation, corrosion, and, I've even seen green stuff too...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol), on the Primary/Low Voltage side, of an Ignition System/Circuit...............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...everything, from having a good Battery...a good Charging System...all Ignition System related Wiring, being in good condition, as well as, being moisture free, while also having, everything on the Secondary/High Voltage side, being in great shape as well, are pretty much, a must, to keep Your Engine running, as good as it should be, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
many thanks for the explanation, good for tech and non tech people I liked the dollars example, I use the same to teach maths, your brain really wakes up when you speak about money ...
+silberkondorin ....Greetings silberkondorin....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...just like that good ole Sayin', that goes something like this..."Money Talks...and...Bull-**** Walks"...!!!...lol......................Even though, an Ignition Coil, might "Check-out Ok", while do-in the Ohms-Testing, there are times, where, a, shall we say, Not-so-Good (Faulty) Ignition Coil, just might, start to "Act-Up", and make for, an Engine, that could very well, "Not Idle, and/or, Not-Run-So-Good", and if really Bad, then, even a Passenger, in that particular Vehicle, would probably notice it......................Well, using Money, for the Math...Comparison/Visualization...is one thing, but now, I'm getting Really Hungry, so Lettuce now talk about Food, shall we................I remember, way back in High School, and the word Desert, or was it Dessert, came-up, and, here's what our English Teacher, had to tell Us (the Students), that was a Really "Simple Way", to "Remember", which was which........................No-Sir-ee-Bob...keep Your Money-in-Ur-Pocket...Purse...or what-ever...cuz...now, We're talkin' "Food"...Remember...???...lol....so now...here I goes..."Desert", only has One "S" in it, where-as "Dessert" has Two of those "S" letters in it, and, Our English Teacher, was Sayin', just Remember..."Strawberry Shortcake"...cuz...that's the..."Dessert"...Word, that has those Two "S" letters in it, and besides, Who in Their right Mind, would want to Eat a "Desert" anywayz...!!!...(Damn Cactus Needles...!!!)...lol........................So, there You have it, and............till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one (as in, a nice, BIG Piece of "Strawberry Shortcake"...perhaps...???)...
Greetings Stephany Rivera....Any vehicle that I have worked on has always "Cranked" (starter motor turning engine over), with the exception of 2 things, not including some problems....One is, with an automatic transmission having a "Neutral Safety Switch"....That is that the car won't crank unless it's in Neutral or Park (on the shift indicator), and also, some standard transmission vehicles having a safety switch actuated by the clutch pedal being pushed to floor-board....(con't)
greg DeStephano Greetings greg DeStephano....Thanks for watching, and for, Your nice comment, and question as well............................Ah yes, the good ole Ballast Resistor, type of ignition system............................As far as my experience with Ballast Resistor's is concerned, it was the "Ceramic/White, Porcelain-looking, Block Type" (actually, it was a Dodge, Dual Ballast Resistor), but, as for the Side, that was wired to the ignition coil only, is concerned, it would pretty much equal, what the Single type of ceramic-looking, ballast resistor, was responsible-for, and did, job-wise.....................Oh, and in case I forget, GMC/General Motors/Chevy/Pontiac/Oldsmobile/etc., used, up until, about 1974, a Ballast Resistor, in the form of, a..."Special" Resistance "Wire", in some cases...................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, as far as I've experienced, with that particular, Ceramic type of (dual) Ballast Resistor, once the Engine was running for a while..."it"..."Did"...get Quite..."HOT"...as in..."HOT"...enough, to, give Your...Finger, a rather Nasty..."Burn"...if You were to actually touch it...!!!..............................Did there happen to be any..."Oil or Grease"...on that..."Smokin' Ballast Resistor"...of Yours, at all...???...as, if so, that just might be the reason for that "Ballast Resistor of Yours..."Smokin'...in a...No Smoking Allowed Zone"...!!!...lol...................................If Your Ballast Resistor is "Mounted" on a "Painted" Surface, did You notice any "Paint Discoloration" or "Burn-like" pattern, in near proximity, to Your Ballast Resistor at all...???...............................How about, the actual "Smell", of Your "Smokin' Ballast Resistor", as that, can, at times, be quite the clue, as to what it just might be, just sayin' now..............................Here's pretty much how "They" work...........................When the Ignition Key is in the "Start Position", while "Cranking" the Engine, to get it Started (with the Starter Motor), the Ballast Resistor, is usually "By-Passed" and "Not Used", and there is usually a "Separate Wire", that provides "Full Battery Voltage" to the Ignition Coil, using a Separate Wiring Circuit, but, that Full Battery Voltage will usually "Drop", due to the fairly "High Demand, Placed on the Battery", by the Starter Motor, while in Operation...........................Once the Engine Fires-Up, and keeps Running, the "Ignition Key/Switch", then goes into the (engine) "Run/Running Position", and that's when, the Electrical Wiring Circuit, that has the "Ballast Resistor" in it, takes over, and when it does, the "Ballast Resistor" will usually "Reduce the Voltage", that goes to the (usually Oil Filled type) of "Ignition Coil"...so the..."Ignition Coil..."Does Not"..."Burn Up & Self Destruct"...!!!...cuz...that's the way, that they were Engineered/Designed, as far as I know.......................The "Most Important" Part here is...Always Make Sure"...that..."Each and Every Part/Component"...of the (engine's)..."Ignition System"...is..."Exactly as Specified"...as a..."Complete System/Group"...so that..."All of the Components/Parts"..."Work in Harmony/Properly"...or, if any, or all, of the (engine's)..."Ignition System's, Parts and Pieces"...happen to get..."Randomly Selected"...and..."Not as Specified"...there, as I see it, could very well be, a quite Strong Possibility, that, the Ignition System in question, might not work so well, or, might even have a component/part or two, get damaged, and, who knows, maybe even "Start a Fire", and I sure hope not................................I actually "Re & Re'd" (Removed and Replaced), that "Dual Ballast Resistor", that I was talkin' about earlier, and "No-Sir-ee-Bob", Not because it wasn't working, as it should, but, (while it was COLD), I removed the wiring connectors, and then, removed that there "Dual Ballast Resistor", from where it was Mounted, on the Engine Compartment's "Fire-Wall", and low and behold, when I..."Flipped"..."it"....around...to have a "Look-See", at the Back-side of "it", there I saw, some "Missing Ceramic-like Material", that was supposedly, supposed to..."Imbed/Surround", the Actual "Resistor-Element-Thing-ee", that was Installed in, what looked to be, a "Cavity" (on the back-side, of the ceramic looking/Ballast resistor Block), if You will......................................In other words, to me, it appeared that, the way that the Main Body, of the Ceramic/Dual/Ballast Resistor, that I had, at the time, was probably Cast/Molded, with "2 Cavities", where, each of the "2" fairly long "Resistors" were placed into, then, it appeared that, once those "2" Resistors were "Snug-as-ah-Bug-in-ah-Rug" (aka, Installed...lol), into, Their respective "Cavities", then, as far as I know, and, as observed by Yours-Truly, it appeared that, some, in..."Liquid Form, Ceramic-like Goop"...was..."Poured Into"...those..."2 Cavities"...to..."Fill-Em-Up"...about, equal-to, the Surface , of the Back-side of that good ole Dual Ballast Resistor's, Block/Body, thus "En-Tomb-ing/Embedding", those "2 Resistor Elements"...once, that there..."Liquid, Ceramic-looking-like Goop..."Solidified"...!!!...........................So then..."Make Sure"...that..."ALL"...of Your Ignition System's Parts and Pieces"..are, as, the Vehicle's Factory/Manufacturer, or Aftermarket Company..."Specifies"...for..."Every Component/Part, in the..."Entire Ignition System"...as a..."Total Package"...in order to have the "Ignition System, work Properly"...and..."Not cause Trouble"...or..."Destroy Itself"...part-wise, that is.............................So then, there You have it, for the time being................................If You care to, You can let me know, how it's going.......................Till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Rocky, Pretty clear instruction here, thanks. A question for you: I have a 77, 16hp Onan twin with an oil filled double coil. It has two secondary outputs (two plug~wire output), what's known as a "wasted spark" system. So both plugs get spark at the same time. The coil has lost its oil. They're not made anymore, so, would it be possible to split the wire lead to the primary and attach them to two single coils. If I did this would there be potential for harm to the points and or condenser. Thanks again.
searchlight22 Greetings searchlight22....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well................................................Have You done, all that You can, in "Searching" the "Internet" for Your Particular "Ignition Coil"...???............................................................"E-Bay", is a very good place to start, and, try "Different" Search "Words, and Phrases/Sentences", that You "Type" in the "Search-Bar/Field", as by doing so, will usually, give You, quite a few, "Different Search Results"....................................................You had mentioned, that You had, a "77" (the Year "1977"...???)...Onan 16 HP Twin (Twin or 2 Cylinders...???)...Engine, and..."What Kind of Vehicle...Boat, or even Gen-Set", is Your "Onan Engine"..."Installed In", as, I haven't a Clue, as to what I'm up against, and, the "More" that You are able to Tell me, the "More", that I should be able, to help You out......................................................."If" it happens to turn out, that, there is no way, that You are able to "Locate" the "Exact/Identical"..."Ignition Coil"...that Your Onan came Equipped with..."Originally" (that Applies only, "If" Someone Did Not "Modify" anything, that is), then, it "Is"..."Possible"...to...Create a "Dual, Single Ignition Coil"..."Wasted Spark"..."Ignition System".........................................................In order to do so, the "Newly Designed"..."Wasted Spark"..."Ignition System"...with the..."Two New Individual Oil Filled Ignition Coils"...would have to be..."Planned and Well thought out"...and...the "New Entire Ignition System"...has to be..."Electrically Balanced"...and...has to "Pass", the "Importance of Safety", which happens to be the "Top Priority"...and, at the..."Top of the List"...!!!............................................."All"..."Components"...have to be..."Matched" to the..."New"..."Total Electrical Circuit"...of the..."Newly Developed"...Wasted Spark, Ignition System"...!!!.........................................................That "Includes"...the "Ignition System's..."Supply Voltage"...the "Type of Spark Plugs, and, the "Gap", that they are Set at"...the "Rating and Resistance in Ohm's, that the 2 New Ignition Coils Specifications are"...the "Micro-Farad Rating of the Condenser/Capacitor"...and "Very Important"..is, the Ignition System's Electrical Circuit "Wiring Gauge"..along with the "Approved"...Ignition System's..."Fuse or Circuit Breaker"...so, a "Fire Does Not Start to Happen"...!!!...............................................Once..."Everything is Approved and 100% SAFE"...one of the New Wasted Spark Ignition System's, shall we say..."Balancing Act"...happens to be that, of the..."Micro-Farad Rating"...of the..."Condenser/Capacitor"....as, "It's Responsible"...for the..."Immediate Collapse"...of the Ignition Coils (remember, we now have "2" Ignition Coils) "Magnetic Field/s"...in order to have the Ignition System "Work Properly"...!!!...................................................Think of the Condenser/Capacitor, as an...Electrical "Sponge, that Absorbs, and Stores Electricity"......................................................If the "Micro-Farad Rating of the Condenser/Capacitor" is..."Wrong"...or it..."Fails"...it usually "Shows Up" on the "Ignition Points", and what You will usually "See", is, the "Ignition Points..."Showing"...some "Easily Seen"..."Pitting" (Electrical Erosion, due to Electrical Arcing)...!!!.....................................................So then, for now, those are just some, of my..."Generic"...thoughts, on, what has to be taken into Consideration, before a person..."Implements"...such an Engineering, shall we say..."Project"......................................................Let me "Know", what Your "Onan" is "Powering", so, I don't have to go, on a..."Wild-Goose-Chase"...lol..........................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Hi Rocky, So very kind of you to reply this quickly and in such detail as well. Thank You. Some background; We acquired a 1977 Massey Ferguson 1655 garden tractor a year ago and it's still a "work in progress". There is a considerable difference in a Lawn Tractor and a Garden Tractor. Our machine weighs close to 450Kg and has about 800 Ft/Lbs of torque, it has hydraulics in the front, middle and rear for various attachments. Included in the sale was a large bottom plow and a 16 disk harrow. I'm thinking about buying a front end loader attachment. This is not a fancy lawn mower. No manufacturer makes anything like this these days. Closest tractor to match now would be a B series Kobuta, that, in it's most basic form (that is to say; useless), would cost about 12 grand. We paid less than $ 1,000 with the attachments. The 16hp gas engine is a horizontally opposed twin cylinder Onan. Popular opinion says it is among the best small engines ever built. The tractor has many deficiencies but is essentially whole. Our primary use is working a 5,000 Sq/ft veg. garden with the plow and harrow, but we also have a 42" snowblower that is being modified to work with our machine. We don't want to spend a lot of cash to get this rig rehabilitated until it's clear it is worth the investment and it might not be. The OEM coil went out of production years ago. I have seen them on E-Bay, but only used offerings. Not that keen on paying for what may be "sketchy" material. Just because the resistance reading from a meter is good does not mean the coil will still work when it reaches the high temps involved when an engine runs for a prolonged period. Therefore, I want to determine if it is in fact the coil that is preventing the old girl from starting at the moment. The tractor was running and did so until last fall. I sourced a set of points with condenser, replaced the plugs and worked on the carb. (float is in need of replacement with a metal version), Plug wires also have to be replaced. I replaced all of the original wiring with # 10 TEW tinned cable so the amperage load is not an issue. A lot of the OEM wire was # 16, or less. "Lost Spark" (system), is a romantic term for " lets make the engine cheaper". It refers to the fact that the engine ignition does not have a distributer. The double coil output goes to both plugs everytime the points cycle. As one of the pistons is in the exhaust position, the spark to that cylinder is "wasted". My hope is that using two single coils won't make any difference. What I need to know most is if splitting the lead to the primary side will lower the amperage enough to affect the secondary of two separate coils. By the way, I have reversed the leads on the current coil so that the 12 V positive goes to the negative post on the coil. I've read that in fact, current prefers to flow from the negative to the positive and additionally, from a "cold" to hot surface. Worked well until the coil failed. I'm fairly certain that all of the oil has leaked from my coil. Using two separate coils would be an experiment only. I wish to confirm the coil is the issue. If the engine starts, I'll search for the OEM coil and resume the rest of the refurbishment on the tractor. Thanks again Rocky
searchlight22 Greetings searchlight22....You're welcome, for any information, that I may have provided, and hopefully, it has, or will help You out, to some extent, somewhat...........................................................Well, I surfed the good ole Internet, and had a "Look-See", at some Pictures and such, as it pertains, to Your Massey Ferguson (spelling?) 1977...1655...Garden Tractor...equipped with the 16 HP Onan Engine, and, from what I saw, and gave considerable thought to also, which also includes, some of what You were telling me about, as well, had me thinkin' the following........................................Please..."Don't"..."Use"..."Any", of the Following "Information"...or..."Specifications"...that I post in this Reply/Comment...and..."Only"..."Use and Apply"...the "Servicing Methods and Specifications"...that the..."Manufacturer"...of Your 1655-Garden Tractor..."Approves"...!!!...................................................All-Righty then, "Lettuce" (intentional Miss-Spelling!...lol) begin.................................................I got to thinkin', about, how You were saying, that, Your Original Ignition Coil got "Fried" (aka, became Non-Functional), when You might have "Reversed" the "Polarity" of the "Power Supply" and "Ground/Earth"...Connections...to the Ignition Coil's "Primary Terminals"...???.........................................That in itself (Reversing the...+ Positive...and the...- Negative...Supply and Ground Wires)...(to the Ignition Coil...???)..."Is Not"...something that I would Do, as, I figure, that the..."Engineers/Designers"...of just about Any Engine's..."Ignition System"...and its...Related "Component Parts"...happened to be, Very...Carefully..."Designed" and "Tested"...with the..."Circuitry"...that the "Manufacturer" decided upon.......................................................It appears, that, the...."Internal Structure/Design"...of Your..."Dual Output"...Ignition Coil...has..."Only"...a..."Single Set of, Both, Primary and Secondary Coil Windings"...much like that, of a Regular/Typical..."Single Output"..."Oil Filled, Automotive"..."Ignition Coil"...!!! (and here I was thinkin', that I would be seeing "2" Individual Coils, side by side, Hiding Inside it...!!!).....................................If You still have that..."Original/Not Workin'/Any More"...Ignition Coil, still Kickin' around, have a Look-see at/on it, as it may be showing You, that it just Might be, a..."6-VOLT"...Ignition Coil"...!!!....................................................If that be the case, and, "12-VOLTS" was "Put-Through"..."IT"..."Without"..a..."RESISTOR" (I'm not sure, if "They", may have used that singular word terminology, as it has me thinkin'..."Ballast Resistor"...eh), that was Theoretically (and "Physically" as well), supposed to..."DROP" (aka, Reduce) that Nominal "12-VOLTS"..."DOWN"...to what-ever that there "6-VOLT"...Ignition Coil could "TOLERATE", without, having it Go..."POOF" (aka, another fun word, for once again, becoming Non-Functional any more), would, in My..."Guess-tim-eh-tion"...possibly be the cause, of the "Original Ignition Coil"..."Giving-Up-the-Ghost" (and yet, another Rendition, of, my take, on, becoming...Non-Functional any more!...lol)...........................................Polarity, You say...???............................................As I see it, and in its most Basic Form, the "Ignition Points" (aka, Breaker Points), are basically, just a "Switch"...that either..."Makes" or "Breaks" (aka, Connects or Opens)...the...Ignition System's..."Primary Coil's...(Negative Wire/Wiring)..."Electrical"..."Connection"...to..."GROUND" (aka, - or Negative, or even Minus, if You will)................................."Always"...Check, and Make Sure...No-matter...What, or Which Ignition Coil, that is to be Used, in "Any" Ignition System, is to Make Sure, to have the "Properly Specified and Rated"..."Ballast Resistor"...in the Ignition's Electrical "Circuit", that's usually Installed, and most that I've seen, in Vehicles, oh, up until, about 1974, are usually, in the + Positive Supply Wiring Circuit, Just "Before" the "Ignition Coil's"..."+ or Positive connection Terminal"......................................There are "Some"..Ignition Coils...that "Do Not Require", a "Ballast Resistor" in their particular Ignition System's "Electrical Circuit", so, just make sure, that the "Required"..."Components"...are..."Installed"..."Correctly"...as the..."Manufacturer"..."Recommends"...!!!...................Maybe, Your Onan Engine has the following...???.......................................I did see (Picture-wise, that is), a shall we say, or call it, an "Ignition Box", that supposedly..."Houses the Ignition/Breaker Points"..."Inside of It"...having the "Ignition/Breaker Points"..."Actuated" (aka, Opening and Closing), by a Round-Rod/Dowel-like..."Shaft"...that has me thinkin', that there is, perhaps, an..."Extra"..."Lobe-like-thing-ah-mah-bob"...on the..."Camshaft" (as, I think, that I recall seeing, what appeared to be "5" Camshaft Lobes, on, that there Camshaft!), and there are Only "4" Valves, in that there Onan Engine, that need to be "Activated", by that there "Bump-Stick"...!!!...(Bump-Stick, is a rather Fun-Word for Camshaft, I think...it's kinda self-explanitory, don't-cha-think?, and no, it's not me, that came up with that one!...lol)...............................................So then, that about does it, for this particular Installment, and, I hope it helps You out somewhat......................................Best of Luck, with "Restoring"...Your..."1655".........................................'Till next time...................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
With 12volts into 1.6 Ohms of the Primary winding, and a D C resistance of 10,500 Ohms in the secondary, do we have a reading of 78,750 Volts jumping between the spark plug gap approx? ( A coil can also break down under load ?)
Greetings anibalcarta....I haven't worked on your particular engine before....Seems to me that it should be a 4-Sroke-Cycle engine perhaps?...and, that each engine cylinder has its own ignition coil to fire the spark plug that is in that particular cylinder....Given that there is only one "Lobe" (Lube?) on the distributor (Timer) shaft that actuates the ignition points (one has to remember that most distributors shafts rotate at one half of the Crankshafts Revolutions Per Minute)....(con't)...
Joe Williams Greetings Joe Williams....Thanks for watching, and for Your nice comment, and, question as well.............................Please, "Describe", the best You are able to, just..."What"...???...You mean, by..."Just Clicks"..."One Time"...???.....................The more that You are able to Tell me, the more that I will be able to Help You out, with, what-ever the Problems, happen to be, with Your Car.....................Please let me know, the following................Year...Make...Model...Engine...any Modifications...etc., and all of Your Car's Problems, as in, something like....Engine....Hard to Start...Miss-Fires...Doesn't Run so good....etc, and I will try to help You out, once I know, what Your particular Car, happens to be, and, the Problems that You are having with "it".............................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings CaptainOwnage01....The item under the ignition coil is my Drill Press Vise....The reason that I'm using it, is because the bottom of the ignition coil is not flat, and also, because I'm connecting the multimeter leads to the terminals on the ignition coil....The drill press vice holds it still and steady for the video....The drill press vise is really quite heavy, as it's made out of mostly cast iron....Take care, and have a good one.
As an instructor, folks...... students, dont have any desire to know the details. Just the "what is" portion. I really dont understand that, but it is what it is. If you ask a question like this, on a public forum ( how to test an ignition coil) you'd get a very abbreviated answer, which isnt an answer at all. But which generates MORE questions.
Greetings gpateluk73....Thanks for your comment, my Friend....With the Ohm's Readings that you posted in your comment, they appear to be in the Ballpark alright, as compared to what I have seen in the past, that is....If you really want some "Accuracy", as in, if you are really Within "Specifications" for Your Ignition Coil, maybe, try and see if you can find the Specifications for Your Ignition Coil, that way, you will "Know for Sure", that the Ohm Readings, actually Fall "Within Specifications" for that Ignition Coil of Yours....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have an old Case tractor with a points type ignition system. I no longer have fire at the plugs. Ai check the resistance at the coil and after adjusting for ohm meter error I read 3.3 to 3.4 ohms from the positive to negative side of the coil. I read 8130 ohms from the positive side to the secondary in the center of the coil. In your video you mention 1.1 to q.8 ohms. I am 2 to 3 times higher. In the secondary circuit you suggested 8000 to 12000 ohms. I am reading 8130 in the secondary. Is the coil good or bad in your opinion?
Greetings Ed McCann....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment/question as well....There are a number of things that I will mention, that, should at least, point You in the right direction, in order to "Restore" Your Case Tractor's "Ignition System", to Work once again, and, "Re-Light the Fire!" (aka, get Your Spark Plug/s "Sparking" again!)....Seeing as how You were getting "3.3" to "3.4" Ohm's showing on Your Ohm-Meters Display, has me thinkin', that, Your "Ignition Coil" might "Not Have" an "External Ballast Resistor" (aka, Ceramic type or like the General Motors "Resistance" Wire), that would usually be "Needed", if the "Primary Coil" (as measured with the Ohm-Meter's test leads, being connected to the +, as in Positive terminal, and the -, or Negative terminal, on the Ignition Coil) was Showing, usually "2" Ohm's or Less. Or, in other words, Your Case Tractor's "Ignition Coil", might have that slightly "Higher" Primary Coil "Resistance", because, perhaps, Your Ignition System's "Circuit"..."Does Not" have that "Ballast Resistor" in the "Circuit", due to the "Resistance" Already being there, in the form of, having a slightly Larger "Primary Coil Resistance" (3.3 to 3.4 Ohm's, as compared to Less then Usually 2 Ohm's, that also needs the Ballast Resistor, in the "Circuit", to keep the Ignition Coil" from "Burning Up"...!!!). Before I go too far, I really should mention, that, It's "Very Important", for You to Indicate "Exactly"...What "Year?", "Model?", "Engine?", "Modifications?" (if any), as, I have "No Idea", what-so-ever, as to, "Which" Ignition System that Your Old Case Tractor, is Actually "Equipped With"...??? There were quite a few "Different" Types of Ignition Systems, for, the Many Years, that the Case Tractors were Manufactured and Sold... ...It appears that, some Case Tractor "Electrical Systems" could have been "6" or "12" Volts, and, may have had either "Positive" or "Negative" Ground Electrical "System/Circuits" as well...!!! Then, some had "Magneto" Ignition Systems, while others had a "Distributor" type of Ignition System, and with the "Older" (distributor type ignition system), Ignition "Points"...Triggered the Ignition Coil. Even the Spark Plug Screw Thread "Outside Diameters" were Different Sizes! If Your Old Case Tractor, "Does Have", what looks kinda like a 1960's, to about 1974-ish, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, American Motors, etc., Car or Truck "Points and Condenser Distributor", then, once the Distributor "Cap" is Removed, there is usually a "Condenser" (aka, Capacitor) Mounted to the Top part of the Distributor Housing (aka, Body), and, if that "Condenser" goes "Bad", the Engine usually won't Start or Run! If Replacing the Condenser, it "Must" (Super Important!), have the "Correct Rating", that is Measured in "Micro-Farads" (I believe), that is "Designed/Engineered" for that "Exact" Distributor Model/Application...!!! Some "Condenser's" might have the "Micro-Farad" Rating "Stamped" on the Outside of its Metal Canister, while others might not! If, let's say for instance, that, the "Wrong" Condenser (aka, Micro-Farad "Rating") happened to get Installed, then, in the better case scenario, the "Ignition Points" would start "Eroding/Pitting" at way too Fast a Rate, and the Engine would probably start running rough, and perhaps, start to miss-fire as well... ...and... ...if the Micro-Farad "Rating", of that Condenser, "Wasn't" even in the "Ball-Park", I doubt that the Engine would run at all. So then, as I see it, with the not-so-much Information, that I have to go on, has me thinkin', that, Your Ignition Coil should be OK, as, it appears that Your Ignition System "Might Not Have", an "External Ballast Resistor"...But, "Make Sure" that, You "Check", before making Any "Assumption's", which might cause Problems...!!! Do an Internet Search, for an "Ignition System Tune Up Kit", for Your "Exact" Year and Model of Case Tractor, as that will usually be showing some Images/Pictures, of the Needed Parts, to do a "Tune Up" on Your Case Tractor's Engine. Everything from Your Case Tractor's...Battery, Ignition Switch, Charging System, Wiring/Connections, Points and Condenser Condition/Adjustment, Spark Plug Gap, and Condition, etc., are "All" very Important "Items", that have to be in..."Tip-Top-Shape", as well as, "Adjusted to Specification's" or, Your Case Tractor "Engine", is not going to be...Very Happy at all... The Ignition "Points" will start "Eroding/Wearing", whenever the Engine is Running. Once the Ignition "Points" get "Worn Too Much", then, the Engine usually starts getting harder to Start, as well as, Does Not "Run" as good as it use to... For the "Best" Air/Fuel "Combustion" (inside Your Engines Combustion Chamber/s), Your "Ignition System" Needs to be able to Provide a "Nice Big Jolt" (aka, Strong High Voltage) to the (must be properly "Gapped", and in very Good Condition) Spark Plug/s...or...Your Engine's...Horsepower, Torque, Efficiency (aka, Gasoline Consumption being Too Much!), and also, Your Engine's Driveability/Response, will be Suffering as well... If You like, let me know, all that You can, about Your Case Tractor's Engine and Ignition System, Including, if it's a..."6" or "12" Volt Electrical System, as well as, if it has a "Positive" or "Negative" Ground System. There are quite a few Case Tractor Websites that can be found on the Internet, if You go looking for them, and, most of them, should have Question and Answer Forums on them, and hopefully, someone has an Old Case Tractor, much like Yours. I hope that, some of my Long-Windedness (above) is able to help You out... Good Luck... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Marcus Pinnock....I'm glad that this/my (Oil Filled) Ignition Coil Testing Video was able to help you out, and, Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and much Appreciated Comment as well, my Friend....Now, as for "Not Responding" to the Negative Comments, that I have received on some of my RUclips Videos so far, well, I Welcome, "Any, and All Comments", be it (them), Good, or, Not So-Good, and, even the Nasty-Ones, that, by the way, I Do find, quite Entertaining, and, if it happens to come to a "Battle of Wits" or "Minds", I will be more then "Willing" to "Engage" with these "Folks" (People), with my (Never Ending Supply) of My "Very-Playful-Dialogue/Vocabulary"....Is there Anyone out there wanting to play the Role of, "Lets-Get-Rocky", well, my Immediate Response to "Them" is..."Just Bring It!!!"...lol. But, you know Marcus, I have, and do, for the most part, try to View Issues, or Problems from different Perspectives (as in, look at the Subject at hand, from different Angles), because, if you don't, you usually become "Self-Centered" ,and some-what "Arrogant". I try my best, not to fall into Either of the Two (2) Categories, as stated in the last paragraph. Now for the "Catch 22", or, in other words, kinda like "Dammed-if-You-Do, and, Dammed if You Don't". By saying, what I just said, to me, just means to "Access-the-Situation" and, "Respond-in-a-Well-Meaning-Manner"....Confused?, Me Too!...lol All-Righty then, Some Folks (People), and not very many at that, were Commenting on a few of my RUclips Videos, that they were "Way Too Long" (Time-Wise), and, I honestly, Do see Their Point. I figure that, the People that "Were-in-a-Hurry" were probably People that had Already been through "Basic-Training", meaning that, they happened to Possess the "Basics" (you know, already know how to Use/Read a Meter/Multimeter) and, as it relates to the Needed "Knowledge" to proceed to the "Actual" (and in this case), Testing of an Oil Filled Ignition Coil with an Ohm/Multimeter. So, in some Previous Posts, that I Commented on (Replied to), I made Two (2) basic Comments, and, those Two (2) Comments were, that, I would perhaps make, or, re-make, some Videos that will have a "Shorter" Running-Time (in, minutes and seconds, hopefully...lol), and the other Comment/Reply, was Informing the people that were "In-a-Hurry", to just "Advance" the (as they say, Too Long) Video, by, using the "Slider" (button?) at the bottom of the "Video Player" to "Advance" the Video to the Place where they can "View/Hear" the Information that they happen to be after. Wowsers!...Sometimes, I feel like I'm "Trapped" in an "Old Saying", the one that kinda states, that..."You can Lead a Horse to Water, but, you Can't Make him Drink!!!"...lol. The reason that I would make/re-make (possibly, that is) the "Shorter" (time-wise), and especially, the Videos that contained the "Fundamentals", that I, well, kinda Added in some of my Videos, to help-out (benefit) those People that are just Starting-Out, or, in other words, those People that have not had the Experience or Exposure to, the Items/Subjects that I try to Show and Explain in the Videos that I make, and, will be making in the Future, unless Circumstances dictate otherwise, that is, would probably make Life, much more Pleasant for those "So-Much-More-Advanced-Folks", that, happen to be, in such a "Great HURRY!!!"...lol. So, "Im-ah-Lis-en-in", and perhaps, sometime in the Future (down the Road), I will be making some (no Promises now!...lol), so called, "Shorter" (time-wise) "Vid-Ay-Oh's" (aka, Videos, get it?...lol). So, in closing, I would like to just say..."If You Can't Be Good, Be As Good As You Can!"... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+Zero Niner (Zero1niner) ....Greetings Zero Niner (Zero1niner)....You are Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.........................Although an Ignition Coil might Test Good Ohms-wise, there can be times, where, a questionable or Faulty Ignition Coil, might act-up, and not work so well, perhaps intermittently, or maybe not at all, once that particular Ignition Coil Warms up to Operating Temperature or maybe even Hotter............It's very important for a Vehicle's Ignition System, to have everything, as in, a Good Battery...a Good Charging System...and also, all Wiring and Connections, and any Switches or Component Parts, in that particular Ignition System, be in very Good Condition and Clean, and if need be, Adjusted to the Vehicle Manufacturer's Specifications, so the Vehicle will be able to have Good Performance, and, if You go easy on the Gas Pedal, some fairly decent Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age it will be............So then........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...TigerIronClock..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........If, and when-ever, installing a new ignition coil, make sure that, it is the "Exact/Correct" ignition coil, for that "Exact" ignition system circuit, or, Ya might end up having, a not so impressive spark, between the spark plug's electrodes (misfire?), or maybe, an ignition coil that becomes Over-Heated and quits workin' all-together, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...nike reebok...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too.........There sure is a lot of science involved, when it comes to, something like an automotive type of ignition system, that's for sure, and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...please note, that when the contact "Points" are closed (inside the distributor), the, usually less then 12 Volts (because of a Ballast resistor reduces the voltage, so the ignition coil doesn't burn up), charges up the primary coil (inside the coils metal canister), until the ignition points are opened, when the Lobe on the distributor shaft opens it....The Lobe on the distributor shaft is "Timed", so the ignition points open, when one of the spark Plugs need to be fired....(con't)...
Greetings MrBoogty....You are welcome....Thanks for watching...and...Thanks for Your very Appreciated comment, my Friend....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for the video. It may have been mentioned in the comments, but for accuracy's sake, you should have checked the resistance through the nail by itself prior to testing.
Greetings SCScott2002....You are welcome, for thanking me for this Ignition Coil Testing video of mine, and, thank You, for watching it as well....Now then, for your concern, about the "Accuracy" of my Ohm/Multimeter's "Ohms-Reading/Display" that has the...2 1/4" (two and one quarter inch) long "Common Nail", that happens to be just under 1/8" (one eighth of an inch) in diameter in the "Test Lead Circuit"...(now I'm running downstairs, to "Fetch" that 2 1/4 Inch common nail, and once I grabbed it, I Re-Shined the nail with some sandpaper, so that there wouldn't be any Oxidation on it, that might just cause an unwanted Resistance on the Nails connection points, where, both, one Polarity (either black or red) Alligator Clips gets attached to, and the other end of that there common nail makes contact with the other (polarity) Alligator Clip, and in this case, to only "Check" the "Calibration" of both, the Multimeter/Ohm Meter, and the Test Leads, "With" the common nail in the circuit, and "Without" the common nail in the Test Lead "Only" Circuit. "Results are Now In!!!"... ...The "Results", well, actually the "Result" was... ...No "Difference" what-so-ever... ..."With" that there 2 1/4" common nail, having one color (red or black) on one end of that there common nail, and the "Other" colored alligator clip on the Other end of said common nail, the "Ohm's" reading (on the lowest resolution, or scale, of 200 Ohm's on my yellow multi-meter) Displayed ".3-Ohm's"...and...the Display was showing the same ".3-Ohm's" reading "Without" having the 2 1/4" long common nail in test leads Circuit. So then, I even went a step further, on Testing my yellow multi-meters "Calibration" for the Ohm's "Zero" Accuracy... I grabbed a piece of Copper Wire, oh, almost about 1/16" (one sixteenth of an inch) in diameter, and about 2" (two inches) long, and made it all Shine-ee with a piece of sandpaper, so's the Oxidation would-not cause any electrical Resistance, when, I was using it, in the following manner... ...I then bent that there piece of copper wire into a Horse-Shoe Shape (aka, the letter U)...Gee, We all wounder what this guy is up to... ...read on, and I will tell All of You... ...I then removed the Test leads from my yellow multi-meter... ...then, I "Jumpered" (exciting word for connecting the 2 Test Lead connection points on the yellow multi-meter, that the 2 test leads attach to) with, that there "U" shaped piece of copper wire, in order to actually "See", just how..Far Out (but don't add the "Man" to those 2 words like the guys from Cheech and Chong did!...lol) my yellow multi-meter's "Zero-Calibration" actually is... ...and here, all this time, I thought that, my yellow multi-meter was reading ".3-Ohm's", when it should be Displaying "0-Ohm's", without the test leads connected, and by having the 2 test lead connection points Jumpered with that there "U" shaped copper wire... ...Wowsers!...when I used the copper "Jumper" wire, to check, just what my yellow multi-meter's "Zero-Calibration" might just be... ...the multi-meter's "Display" was Displaying ".2-Ohm's" !!! ...so, now it looks like, the 2 test leads (each one is about 4 feet long), thus makes them about 8 feet long, when connected in "Series" (aka, end to end), and that my Friends, has me thinking that those 2 test leads "Total" a "Resistance of ".1 Ohm"... ...still, I have to "Account" for ".3-Ohm's", with my Test Leads connected to my yellow multi-meter (with or without my nice shiny 2 1/4" common nail), especially, when You, or I, are using the "Low" or "Lowest" Scale on a multi-meter, such as mine... ...Very "High" Ohm's readings found/seen, when measuring the Ignition Coils "Secondary Coil", shouldn't be as Fussy as the "Primary Coils" reading, due to the very "High" Ohm Readings involved. Bottom Line...Make sure that You take into consideration your Ohm/Multimeters Zero-Calibration with the test leads attached to your Ohm/Multi-meter, Especially when you are trying to measure any Resistance Circuit that "Will" be Displaying "Low Ohm's Readings!!!" Gee, I wish that this yellow multi-meter of mine had a way to do a "Zero-Set" for Calibrating "All" of the Ohm Scales (resolution) Read-outs, before I start taking actual Ohm's Measurements on the Part, or Piece in question... ...kinda looks like the Older "Analogue" (aka, has a needle/pointer, that "Waves" at You!...lol) multi-meters that I have, have an advantage over my yellow "Digital" multi-meter, in that, I can Actually "SET" the "Zero" Point, on any Ohm Scale that I'm wanting to use at the time!!!... ...and... ...for the time being... ..."That's All Folks!"... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
littlebignuts02 Greetings once again littlebignuts02....Thanks again for your great comment....Now, about that Information that I said that I was going to tell you about...so, here it is....I currently have "3" Different "Types" of Ignition Coil Videos that you can watch on my RUclips Channel, and they are...This one, that you have already watched (2 of them, both Long and Short version videos)...I have "2" HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil Test videos (and again I say, a Long version, and a Short version)...and I also have an Ignition Coil Test, of the type of Ignition Coil that is found on a mid 90's Chevy or GMC 4.3 Litre (262 Cubic Inch, I think) "V-6" Engine that was mounted just above one of the valve/rocker covers....There are also quite a few "Ignition" related videos, such as Distributor Cap inspection, Ignition Wires testing, and other automotive videos, that you can find on my RUclips Channel as well....Just type...RockysRoadshow...in the RUclips search box, at the top of RUclipss main page, and that should show you a list of all of my videos that I have made so far (79 videos, I think)...enjoy....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for all the time and effort you've put into this video to help us out. Lots of bonus knowledge other than just measuring resistance. You're very clear and thorough with your explanations. Keep up the great work and Thanks Again!
all your videos are extremely informative and broken down so even my mom could understand, thanks for all the work mate
Great video, presenter is well spoken and discusses enough detail, with care and clarity, to help a larger audience, i.e. with a wide range of background knowledge. A person who had never owned a multimeter/tester could rely on this video to guide them in testing an ignition coil with one. The camera technique is very good for teaching . Run time of the video is fine. To have a nearby friend/neighbor like this presenter would be darned good luck for anyone!
Greetings...Harold Hansen.............Thanks kindly, for Your "super comment", and for watching too............Well, I usually record my Videos, while having the video camera "held stationary/mounted securely", and also, "zoomed-in" reasonably well, so the audience, will (hopefully) be seeing, what-ever-it-might-be, at that particular time, with some clarity, while also, not looking, like I'm trying to film a horror movie (with that good ole camera "shake", and, Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, that "shake-in" gets worse, the more, that the camera lens, zooms-in as well, when "hand-held"...!!!...lol)...........Yes indeed, back when, I made this particular video, I thought it would be a good idea, to show folks, the, shall we say, "basics", as it applies to, how, Ohms (resistance) readings, relate to those, oh-so-many-turns of wire, that make up, each of those, usually two, individual coils, that are usually contained with-in, a given (automotive, type of) ignition coil (as in, the primary coil, and the secondary coil of wire)............Most of the "factory/stock" ignition coils, that I've replaced over the years, usually, "did not", have any "ohms/resistance" specifications, printed on the ignition coil, or, on its shipping box/packaging as well.............If lucky though, those specifications could be found, printed in a factory service manual, other-wise, a person had to have faith, that, the so-called, ignition coil's "part number", actually was, the "correct one", for that "Exact" vehicle and ignition system/circuit in question, or, if not, the result could be, a weak spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, or might even end up, having some serious & expensive (to fix), damage...!!!...and I hope not...........I guess, that, I'm not so much, a part-of, the, shall we say, "disposable society", as in, if it's "broke", just get rid of "it", and buy a new one, but rather, I like the challenge, of, fixing/adapting/making a home-made part, that will hopefully, get, what-ever-"it"-is (that's "malfunctioning"), up & running, reasonably well once again (keeping fingers crossed....lol)............In closing, here's something, that happened a number of years ago............I got a phone call, from a Friend, that just took his truck, into, one of those..."Can do it Quick"...automotive tune-up shops, and he was sayin', that his truck "Ran Worse"..."After"...they, or who-ever, worked on it...!!!...Yikes...!!!...so, I told him, to bring his truck over to my house.............When he arrived, it sure didn't take very long at all, as to what the problem was, after, I opened-up, the hood of his truck..............Well, it appears that, Mr. (so called) Fast tune-up Guy, "Did Not" tighten up, the Distributor's, hold-down clamp/bracket..."Bolt"...as, I could turn that Distributor, very easily, with my hand, and the ignition timing, probably, wasn't even in the ball-park, b-cuz of that...!!!.............So, I stuck my timing light on his engine, set the initial/base ignition timing, and, shortly after, my Friend's, truck's, V-8 Engine, was, back to Runnin', the way, that it should be, and, with all of that, said and done, I say, thanks again, and......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I'm really grateful to have this chance to learn from someone experienced like yourself. thank you sir,
Very good demonstration for a Pro or even a Novice.
Thanks a million.
Nicholas Philip-neri Greetings Nicholas Philip-neri....Wowsers...!!!...Thanks kindly, for Your..."Fantastic"...Comment my Friend, and for taking the time, to watch this RUclips Video of mine, as well....................................Even though, some, if not most, of my RUclips Videos, happen to be, shall we say, a bit on the..."Long-Winded"...side of things (aka, my Video/s, being, too long, time-wise, that is), I'd rather take the "Flak" (as in, some Folks, leaving a comment, every now and again, about the, shall we say, Extended Running Time, of, most of the Videos, that I make), and, I do see Their Point alright, it's, just that, I can't see myself, making these Videos, in, a, shall we say..."Slam-Dunk"...(You know, that good ole "Basketball" term, pretty much meaning, to, "Slam-Dunk" the Basketball, into the "Hoop", in almost..."No Time at all"...!!!...lol) fashion, where-by, as I see it, if I were to make, oh, lettuce say, a really "Short, and to the Point", Video, on, what-ever the Subject matter happens to be, I figure that by doing so, some, if not most People, would be, shall we say, kinda, "Left Out in the Cold", and, probably not, getting enough Information, from that, so called, Hypothetical/Imaginary..."Slam-Dunk"...Video, well, if I were to make any, in that fashion, at all, that is.......................................If You have a look around, at the many, did I say Many..."Comments & Questions"...that can be seen, under most of these RUclips Videos, that I have made, so far, these Many, Comments/Questions, that You can see, are Posted, even though I thought, that, I, perhaps, had enough Information in these Videos of mine already, fancy that...lol.....................................Before I forget, the "Ohms Testing", of an Ignition Coil, will Only, Basically, be Tellin' Us, that, both, the "Primary, and the Secondary, Coil Windings", and their "Internal Connections", Inside, just about any Ignition Coil, are not "Open or Shorted", and, there can be times, quite Rarely at that, where, a..."Faulty, or Questionable"...Ignition Coil, Heats up to "Operating Temperature", or perhaps Higher, and, when "it" does, it could very well..."Not Work all that Well, or, might even, Stop Working, All-Together"...just, so You know, for Future Reference, if need be......................................The thing, to really be watching out for, is, while taking/doing the "Low Ohms Test", on just about any Ignition Coil out there, that, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter'"...that is being used, has it's..."Low Ohms...Range/Scale...Calibration"..."Checked/Verified"...especially when, checking out, something along the lines, of, oh, lettuce say, a General Motors/Chevrolet.."HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil"...where, as I recall, has a..."Low Ohms Reading"...(on a Good Coil, that is...lol), somewhere Between..."Just Over Zero Ohms, and, No Higher, then about 1 Ohm"...and, I'm sure, that, with that, Very Low, shall we say..."Ohm-age"..."Specification"...on the HEI Ignition Coil, that I was just talkin' about, then, even my very own, Yellow..."Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter" (that You can see, in this Video), had a "Miss-Calibration", of about .3 Ohms (that be, the Yellow Meter's, and the Test Leads on it, "Combined" together, to arrive at, that .3 Ohm's...Miss-Calibration, that I was just mentioning), and, that, my Friend, could "False-ly Indicate", that, a "Good Ignition Coil", just might, "Appear to be Bad"...if, and I say if, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter's"..."Miss-Calibration"..."Is Not Taken Into Consideration"...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........................As for the "High Ohms Test", on an Ignition Coil, and that "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", would usually have a "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", of, oh, should be, for the most part, in the..."Many Thousands of Ohms"...and as I see it, that, usually..."Under 1 Ohm Miss-Calibration"...on, something, like my Yellow Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter, could, shall we say, be Comparable, to, something like..."Trying To Find a Needle in a Hay-Stack"....!!!...lol...pretty much meaning, while taking, that rather "High Ohms Reading", with that, Less-Then, "1 Ohm"..."Miss-Calibration"...is, pretty much "Meaning-Less"...unless, a Person has a Phobia, where-by, They, just, might not be able to Sleep at Night, just, knowing, that, that High Ohms Test, wasn't..."Perfect"...!!!...lol........................................So, there You have it, not only, are some of my Videos..."Long-Winded"...but...at times, some? (if not Most?), of my "Replies", happen to be..."Long-Winded"..as well...!!!...lol...........................Thanks again, for Your well Appreciated Comment, my Friend, and.....................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great information for an old guy working on a no spark issue on a 1970's Cub Farmall tractor. Thanks
This is the absolute best video I found for testing a coil. It’s nicely explained and very easy to follow and understand for anyone who knows nothing to begin with…which was me. Thanks for a good video that explains the process perfectly, including how to set and use the multimeter, which I didn’t know how to use until I watched this.
Thanks Buddy!! My old 1972 John Deere tractor just stopped running a month ago in the middle of snowplowing. Been farting around trying to fix it for a month. Saw your vid about testing coil. The new one I out in 6 months ago is DEAD! Put the old one back in (looks super old, maybe original) and it fired up instantly!! Thanks again!!
+Jeff Pregman ....Greetings Jeff Pregman....You're Welcome my Friend, and, Congratulations, for Gittin'-er-Fixed............Hmmm...what's that old sayin'.....oh yeah, that's it, as in..."They Don't Make-em...like they use to"...(the Ignition Coil, that is...lol)..............As a Guess, it might have been, a not so good Electrical Connection, on the Low Voltage side, of Your Tractor's Ignition System, that had You thinkin', that, the much Older Ignition Coil was to blame, and should be turned out to pasture, when it was probably Ok, all along....................Make sure, that, when-ever Replacing, any of the Parts in Your Tractor's Ignition System, to get the "Exact Specified" ones, cuz, in a lot of cases, all of those particular Parts, have to be "Matched-Up", with one-another, especially so, the Ignition Coil's Primary Resistance, and whether or not, it has to be "Teamed-Up", with a Ballast Resistor as well, or, the result, could be, a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plug/s, or maybe, even an Ignition Coil that gets too Hot, Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, quite possibly............I don't know what Your Tractor has, in the way of an Ignition System, but, it's always a good idea, to Keep-Up with Maintenance.....................Something, like an old, dirty, and/or, worn-out Spark Plug, really should be Replaced with a New one, and, if it's the Gap-able type, it should be Gap-ed to Specifications, cuz, just about any time, that a Spark Plug's Gap, gets way too Big, that, in-itself, makes an Ignition Coil, Work all that much harder.............................All of the Ignition System's Wiring "Connections", should be, Clean, (shine-ee?) and Dry, or, sooner or later, there's gonna be Trouble in Paradise...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........If Mr. John Deere, starts to Feel Sick again, just leave a comment or question, under any of my RUclips Videos, and, once I know the Model Number, of Your Tractor, I can then, have a look-see, for that particular Tractor's, Information, and.........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you very much Rocky. The video really help me testing the coil. I have a 350 Chevy '68 on my boat and it help me to understand the routing of the wires and testing the coil. I have 3 of them which are in good condition. I was going to discard them, but now I will keep them in my tool box for emergencies. Also, you are very thorough in your explanation and very easy to understand. Aloha.
luis berrios Greetings luis berrios....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thanks, for not only watching this RUclips Video of mine, but also, for that nice comment that You posted here................................I'm assuming, that, when-ever You happen to be the "Captain" of Your "Vessel" (that just be a fancy schmancy way of sayin'..."Boat"...lol), that, as I'm thinkin', probably, due to the odds, of Your "Boat" being Operated in, what is known around here, in Canada (and more then likely, plenty of Other Countries as well), as the "Salt Chuck" (that, is just, oh, I guess the slang Name, possibly being started by a "Mariner/Captain", or, Some Other Person, that some-what Replaces, the, shall we say, more Common Word, for, the)..."Body of Water"...where-by..."It", will usually have a rather..."High Amount of Salt Content in it"...and, that, so called..."Salt Chuck", is usually in the Form of an..."Ocean"...as opposed to a..."Body of Fresh Water"...that might just be in the Form of a..."Lake"...perhaps............................Now then, what I was kinda getting at, just above, would have my thinkin', that, seeing as how You ended Your comment, with that rather Famous Word, being that, of..."Aloha"...leads me to believe, that You may, very well be, in, or on, "One" of those "Islands", in..."Hawaii" (I hope, that I spelled it correctly?), and, also, I'm visualizing, Your Boat, and of course, with You, being the "Captain", at the "Helm" (that be, yet, another fancy schmancy Word, and it just basically means "Steering Wheel", most of the time...!!!...lol)...and, I'll even "Fathom" a Guess (nope, not the Water Depth word, this time...lol), that Your Boat is probably being Operated in a "Body of Sea Water, with, lots and Lots of Salt in it", and, as You, have probably noticed, and probably experienced, as well as, plenty of Other People and myself, have, is that..."Salt (Sea/Ocean) Water"...is very..."Unforgiving, and Very Corrosive"...!!!..............................What I'm getting at here, this time, is, forewarning You (You might already know?), that, the, shall I say..."Salt Air"...that's usually found above the "Sea/Ocean", and, on the "Coast Line", of a "Coastal Community or City", is almost, as "Corrosive", as the "Sea Water Itself", and, when it comes to, something like, Your Boat's "Wiring and Connections", it usually, doesn't take, all that long, before, that rather "Corrosive...Salt-Containing...Sea Air", starts to get into, something like Your Boats "Wiring System", and, all of those "Wiring Connections/Connecters", and, seeing as, You were sayin', that, You had some "Spare Ignition Coils" to use as, oh, "Emergency/Back-up Replacements"...just in case (as we all are, keepin' our fingers crossed, to try to, avoid, You, having to use, any One of those, Extra Ignition Coils)..............................What's that ole Saying...???..........................Oh yeah, it goes something like this.............."An Ounce of Prevention, is Worth, a Pound of Cure"...and, here's what I'd like to tell You, about that Word..."Prevention", if You'll let me, that is (lol)...........................My best Advice, is, something as Simple as..."Keeping a Very Close Eye"...on Your Boats..."Wiring Connections"...as, like I was just sayin' above, about, just how "Nasty and Corrosive", that, all of that (Salt Filled)..."Sea (Ocean) Air"..."Actually Is"...especially, when we are talking about "Metals that will Corrode", at an even "Faster Rate", especially considering, that, good ole "Salt Air Environment", that Your Boat is probably being "Exposed To"...!!!..........................Now I'm thinkin', and, I'll even bet, that, the "Air"...(not even bringing, any "Salt" into this offering)...might just be, quite "Humid" (as in Humidity, or even, Relative Humidity, that might be, expressed in...% or Per-Cent), could very well be..."Quite High"...and that my Friend, even without having any "Salt", in that, possibly, "High Humidity"..."Air"...and, given enough time, as I've found out, more then once, will eventually, get into, just about any..."Wiring Connection Points"...and, will usually, make for, some very Unwanted, Not Working so Good..."Engine Related Running/Performance Issues"...and sometimes, even on a Good day...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol................................So, there You have it...Please..."Keep All of Your Boat's Wiring Connections"..."Shine-ee, and Corrosion-Free"...(and that also, goes for...not having any "Oxidation", on any connection points as well), so, Your Good Friend, that being, Your Boat's Engine, gets the well deserved..."Battery Voltage & Amperage"...that "it" really does require, so, that, good ole Engine of Yours, doesn't Stop Working, having the end result, being, Your "Boat", just sitting, somewhere, out there, in the "Salt Chuck", and Not Moving, trying to pretend, that it's just, a..."Marker Boo-ee" (that was my rendition, of the real word...Buoy...lol).................................Also, make sure, that You Run, Your Engine Compartment, Ventilation System..."Before You Start Your Engine"...!!!...(if so equipped, that is?)...and...Make Sure, that, You have a Fully Charged, and Properly Operating..."Fire Extinguisher"..."On-Board"...just in case (and I hope not)..................Seems, You have "It Made"..."Mah-hee-Mah-hee" (Fish...???), and, lots of Pretty "Hula" Girls too...lol........................................Well......Till next time...."Steady as She Goes Captain"...and...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
That was really helpful and perfect pace for me to understand. Thank you and keep doing what you're doing.
Greetings Meaghan Pashen....I'm glad that this video of mine, was able to help you out, and, thanks kindly, for your very appreciated words, that I read in your comment as well....As for this older type of ignition coil, that you see in this video, it happens to be "Old School", in comparison with ignition coils that can be found on the vehicles that are being sold these days....With the older vehicles, oh, up to about the mid 1970's, were quite easy to learn about, maintain, repair, and modify, as compared to all of the vehicles now-ah-days, that have fuel injection, onboard computers, and then some, but not to worry, just set your own pace, (maybe like the pace that You experienced in this video maybe?), and, just..."Learn-as-You-go"...much like I have, and still do, to this very day.
The real Major difference, in the Older versus Newer vehicles, is the "Engine Management System", and other components, like Electronically Controlled automatic transmissions as well.
I find that, it's quite a bit easier to learn (and maybe teach as well), the Fundamentals (aka, basics) about vehicles (cars, trucks, etc.), especially, as compared to newer vehicles, having an Onboard Computer, Fuel Injection, and the "List" goes on.
Cars, Trucks, and anything, that makes them go, just happens to be a "Hobby" of mine, and I "Save a Pile of Money", by D.I.Y., ooops, I meant D.I.M. (aka, Do It Myself!...lol).
If you liked this Ignition Coil video, I have another Video on my RUclips Channel, that would probably help you out, with how an "Old School" vehicles "Ignition System" actually works, and it was an ignition system that was usually referred to as, a "Points and Condenser" type of ignition system (this particular ignition system was only used up to about 1974, and this system used an Ignition Coil that looks just like the Ignition Coil that You see in this video, but, it is quite a bit easier to understand, as compared to the onboard Computer ignition systems found on vehicles these days.
If you care to, head on over to my RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow..., and check out (actually watch, and maybe listen too...lol), the Video, with the Title of, something like...Simple Explanation of a Vehicles Ignition System...
...also, feel free to have a Look-See at any of my other RUclips Videos, as I'm sure that You will find plenty of interesting information in my other videos as well...enjoy.
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
people are so busy and stressed out these days eh? Ive had one of those ohm meters sitten around for 10 years now...and I never had a clue!!! on how to use the darn thing!! Thank You so much for your video. People like you and I...that KNOW what the hell were talking about like to explain things where all people can understand it and that takes a minute or two!! Good job sir!!
Greetings...Dale Rucker............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...eh...lol............Well, the good ole Multi-meter, be it, an older, Analogue type, that has a needle/pointer that Waves at You, or, be it, the Digital type, that will usually, only be showing You Numbers, along with, sometimes, showing a decimal (point), and/or, maybe a symbol or two, perhaps (ohms symbol maybe?...as an example), can sure help out, quite a bit, when it comes to, tryin' to track down the Culprit, that could very well be causing, an (electrically related) problem or two...hopefully, that is............Here's something else, You can try, if You like..........If, You were to set Your Multi-meter, on the Low Volts range, then, just get a 1.5 Volt Battery (one and one half Volts, round type), as in...AAA...AA...C...or D...size, and, make sure, to touch/connect the Multi-meter's probe/tips, to each end, of the 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, using the Correct "Polarity", as in, the Red probe, is usually + (plus sign = Positive), and the Black probe, is usually - (minus sign = Negative), or, more simply put...the Red probe/tip, goes to the end of the battery, that has the Bump/protrusion on it...and....the Black probe/tip, goes on the Flat end of the Battery, then, have a look at the Voltage reading, that will usually be showing on the Multi-meter, well, unless, that poor ole Battery, happens to be...as dead as a Door Nail, that is, as in, completely used up, and/or, might be, very, very old as well...............A Brand spankin' New, 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, should be showing, a bit more, than 1.6 Volts, most times..............I've found, that, when, one of these Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt (round) Batteries, starts to drop Below, oh, about 1.4 Volts, then, that's usually the time, where, what-ever the Battery is powering, will sometimes, start to work, not-so-good, sometimes............If, one or more, Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, happen to be in a Flashlight, that has an old school, Light-Bulb in it (not the LED/Light Emitting Diode type), then, a Person, might be able to see, that, the Flashlight, isn't casting, as "Bright" of a Light, as it did before, when those (1 and 1/2 volt) Batteries, were brand spankin' "New"................If, there are two or more, 1 and 1/2 volt Batteries, placed/connected end-to-end, as in, Bumpy end of one battery, is touching the Flat end, of the other battery, then, this is basically, what is called, a Series circuit, and, each of the Battery's Voltages, gets added together, which will increase the Total Voltage available, as in, for example, let's use a Flashlight, that uses, only Two, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, shall we............When these two batteries, are placed end to end (placed in Series), then, the Voltages, of those two batteries, are added together...............So, if each New, 1 and 1/2 volt battery, is 1.6 Volts each, just add...1.6 plus 1.6, which should equal 3.2 Volts..............Then, as these two batteries, get used up, by the old school Light Bulb, that's in the Flashlight (while it's on), then, as the Voltage starts dropping, so will, the Brightness, of the Light, that's coming out of the Flashlight, well, as far as I might know, it will...maybe...lol...........So then, the light-Bulb, that's in the imaginary Flashlight (above), as far as I see it, is a pretty good example, of what can happen, when a Battery's Voltage, starts to Drop, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Good presentation for dummies like me!! Thank you for taking the time!!
Thank you for sharing the video in the depth you did. It was great to see everything explained with depth and detail, without much fluff. Very useful for the novice!
Greetings anakaine....Thanks kindly, for you very well Appreciated choice of words, my Friend....To some, (maybe just venting, due to a bad day perhaps?), think that this particular Video is on the "Long-Winded" side, to say the least....But, never-the-less, I'm just gonna "Stick-To-My-Guns" (so to speak), in that, if I just do the "Slam-Dunk" (as in the Basket-Ball Term), meaning, get to the Point (of the material being discussed in my Videos), without giving any Thoughtful Consideration to those Folks that are just starting out, and, not having very much Knowledge of, or Exposure to, would (in my opinion) be, Abandoning them. (something, that I just don't want to do).
What's that old saying?...."You can please some of the People some of the time, but, you can't please All of the People All of the Time!"...lol...(gee, I hope I got that right!...lol).
Sure, I will be making some mistakes from time to time, but, as I see it, it's the Thought that Counts! : )
Thanks again, for your "Great" comment!
Take care, "HAPPY NEW YEAR!", and, have a nice day.
..nice detailed job on your video...you closed the gap from beginner's to basic to novice all in one video...well done... thank you for that...all the best to you and yours...
Greetings...Tropicalan....Thanks for Your nice comment, and for watching too..................This rather long (time-wise), RUclips Video of mine, will hopefully be able to help a Person, get started, on the, shall we say basics maybe, but, I've been doing quite a bit of studying, on some of the Ignition Coils that are out there, and, when a Person digs in really deep (hopefully not over their head, kinda like me...lol), and kinda sees, just how involved, an automotive type of ignition coil gets, as in, seeing how one performs, and how the a Spark Pattern (trace) looks, on the Display Screen of an Oscilloscope, then, it's as though, we might be nearing, Rocket Science territory after-all...maybe...???...lol....................If You ever have to replace, or maybe even upgrade, any of the parts or pieces, in any Ignition System/Circuit..."Make Sure"..that, the New Component/Part, is With-in, the..."Exact Specifications"...for that..."Exact"...Ignition System/Circuit, or, maybe, just a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plugs, or, in a worse case scenario, one or more of those Components/Parts, gets..."Fried"...and hopefully, without starting a..."Fire"...at the very same time...!!!...Yikes...!!!....................Thanks again, my Friend, and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Excellent video. Many thanks. This will certainly help with my Morris Minor ignition problems.
Rocky great information, even though it's a little long winded. Thank you.
A really descriptive and informative, wish id found this video weeks ago, would have saved me a lot of time 👍🍻 thanks
Good tutorial and just what I needed. Thanks.
Greetings...Emil Cornell.........Thanks for watching..........Here's something else, to keep in mind also..........There can be times, quite rarely, when a faulty ignition coil might start to act-up, and not work so well, or, might even stop working, possibly, when it gets up to operating temperature, or, maybe even hotter.........The Ohms (resistance) testing, of an ignition coil, isn't really, the be all, end all test, b-cuz, the Ohms/resistance test, is usually done, when the ignition coil is rather cool, as in, room temperature perhaps...........Make sure, to keep up with regular vehicle maintenance, that's usually, to be done, in accordance, with the vehicle's manufacturer's maintenance schedule, at the specified time, and/or, mileage/kilometer-age "intervals", b-cuz by doing so, you'll be getting better performance, and, if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, then, some very good gas mileage, it will usually end up being, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
wow you're very explanatory I only wanted to know how to check resistance in general but I really enjoyed the whole video about the calibrating the meter and how you said its like a step up converter...I love pointless (never pointless but still!) learning, thanks!!
Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....Thanks for watching, and for, Your interesting comment as well.............................................I thought that I'd go the extra mile, and mention a few things while I was at it, as it pertains to, some of the, shall we say, Information, that was found, in, some of the RUclips Videos that I have made to date................................................Hmmmmmm...now I'm thinkin', that, perhaps a Person could compare Me, to that of a "Waiter", that gave that "Table of Four"..."Outstanding Service and Consideration"...in that..."Fine Dining Restaurant"...where You were at, a few months ago.............................................I usually don't Receive "Tips" in the Customary sense of the word, but rather, those, shall we say "Tips", that I like Receiving, do, for the most part, present Themselves, in the Form of, some "Well Appreciated"..."Comments".................................................You were most Generous, as I was only expecting 10% of the Bill, and here, You and the Three Others, that were in Your Dinner Party.............(hold on, It's my Mental Math time, as I'm running the Extra Coinage through my Gray Matters Computer, and)..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...It's lookin' like, Your Party of Four, left Me a..."46 Dollar Tip" (in the Form of, the "46" Words, that Formed Your Comment, that is)...................................................Thanks again for Your "Tip"...ooops...I meant to say...Comment.............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thanks! my dads a master electrician and my grandfather is an electrical engineer so I love things like this! I've grown up around things like this and they've always intrigued me to learn and hear things new ways.
Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....You're welcome, and..................................................maybe ask, both Your Dad and Your Grandfather, if they recall seeing the good ole..."Knob and Tube"...Electrical Wiring System, for Houses that were built somewhere in the earlier half of the 1900's...and...maybe, They might also remember seeing things like, oh, something like when the House's Electric Panel, had...Screw in Fuses...before, during, and after, the, shall we say, Transition to, the more modern style of..."Circuit Breakers".......................................................Maybe while I'm at it, perhaps also ask Them, about possibly seeing, the good ole...Galvanized Steel Pipe (then after that, Copper, then Plastic), that was used for the House's Water Supply Piping System, and, last but not least, that good ole...Cast Iron Plumbing Soil Pipe...that was joined together by, Molten Lead (pronounced Led) and Oakum, to pack the joint, (then later went to Plastic and Glue)...............................................Now there's some "History" for Ya...!!!............................Be Safe, Take care, and have a good one.
Our house still has the screw in fuses, May be antiquated but still works fine haha, we have a breakerbox on the outside of the house for things added over the years, but I'll bd sure to ask them about the others!
I watched EVERY second of this presentation and found it VERY informative ! ...
Greetings...the jackel.............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too............If, and when-ever, you, or who-ever, might be replacing/installing a New ignition coil, make sure that, "it" is the "Correct" one, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine, b-cuz, if the "Wrong" one, happens to get installed, that "Does Not", have the "Correct", Vehicle Manufacturer's, Ohms/resistance specifications (especially so, on the Low Ohms/Primary side/coil windings), for that particular ignition system/circuit, then, it might result in, something along the lines of, a Weak Spark, at the spark plug's Electrodes, or perhaps, some not-wanted/expensive damage, it might end up being, and, I hope not (ignition coil, might Over-Heat, and go Kaput/Quit working, as an example).............When-ever, I ordered, an ignition coil, for a vehicle, that had a stock/un-modified engine, I would tell, the Parts, guy or gal, what vehicle it was, along with, the particulars of the Engine as well, and, the only thing, that was, looked-up/involved, was usually, just a "Part Number" Only (No ignition coil Specifications, what-so-ever)...But...what if...???...there was an "Error", in the Part's...Listing...or...the Parts, guy or gal, had an off-day, and made a boo-boo (aka, mistake)...???...........What I try to do, to prevent any Errors (hopefully, that is), is to, have a look-see, in a Factory/Manufacturer's..."Chassis Service Manual"...to, see for myself, what the "Low Ohms"...and..."High Ohms"...Specifications, actually are, for that "Exact", vehicle and engine...........I recall, some time ago (for the very same vehicle/engine), that, I saw (in a factory/manufacturer's service manual)..."2"...Different...(sets of) ignition coil (ohms/resistance) Specifications, for..."2-Different"...ignition coils, that had "Different", ignition coil Manufacturers...!!!...how about that...lol...oh, and, that particular vehicle, only used, "1-Only" ignition coil (not 2), just, so as, not to be confused..............Then, if the ignition system/circuit, is a much older type, then, some of them, might have/and use, what is called, a Ballast Resistor, that has to have the "Correct" Ohms/resistance Specification/s as well (a ballast resistor, is needed, to be used along with certain ignition coils, or, that particular ignition coil, will probably get too Hot/Over-Heat, and destroy itself)............The better, a vehicle's ignition system performs (and, that every-thing else, is working as it should), will more than likely, result in better (engine) Performance, and if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, good gas mileage, it will usually be...and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
..another comedian!
Thank you, great video! Helped a lot in troubleshooting a no-spark issue in a 33 Dodge w/ a 360
Greetings Amorget....You're welcome, and I'm glad, that, this RUclips Video of mine was able to help You out, and also, thanks for watching, and commenting too....The "Ohm's" Readings, that show up as being with-in "Specifications" on both, the Primary & Secondary "Windings", are, as I see it, just a, shall we say..."Preliminary Test", as there just might, come a time, that, I'm thinkin', that, and probably quite "Rarely" as well, that, once a "Faulty" Ignition Coil "Heats Up" to its..."Operating/Engine Compartment"..."Temperature"...then, even though that particular Ignition Coil "Ohm's Testing" was showing...."Good"...that same Ignition Coil..."Might"...(and rarely at that), "Not Work" as it was Designed/Supposed to....In other words, that, shall we say..."Faulty/Suspect/Questionable"..."Ignition Coil", just might..."Break Down", when it arrived at its "Operating Temperature", and either, start to Function..."Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...!!!
There is one, shall I call it..."Major" thing to watch out for, and that..."Thing" happens to be, the "Supply Voltage/Current" that gets "Sent/Connected" to the Ignition Coil's (usually)...Positive or + (+ = Plus Sign) Terminal on the Common (North American) Vehicles, that have...Negative or - (- as in Minus Sign) "Grounded" Electrical Systems, where usually, the Vehicle's "Chassis or Frame"...IS"...the (Negative) Ground.
Watch out now....as, Some of the much "Older" Vehicles "Electrical Systems"..."Might" have Installed in them, "Either"..."Negative"..."Or"..."Positive" (Electrical) "Grounding"...But..."Might" also have, a..."6-Volt"...or a..."12-Volt"..."Battery"...that resides in the..."Vehicle" in question...!!!
Then, depending on the "Actual" Ignition Coil in question, it may, or may Not "Require" a "Ballast Resistor", which will usually show up, in the Form of...a "Resistance Wire" (usually, can be found in quite a few General Motors vehicles)..or...a "Ceramic" (usually white-ish in color) Type of Ballast Resistor, that has the "Job", of "Reducing/Limiting" (and I'm thinkin') Electrical "Current", that as I see it, should result in the required "Voltage Drop", to "Prevent" that particular "Ballast Equipped" Ignition Coil...from..."Burning Up" (aka, Non-Functional any more...Kaput)...!!!
Depending on "Ignition/Electrical System" Installed in some Vehicles, that I have worked on (mostly North American/Domestic Vehicles, as in, General Motors, Dodge, Ford, etc.), would usually Allow "Full" Battery Voltage (in this case, Nominal 12-Volts), to make its way to the Ignition Coil, but, "Only" while in the process of Starting the Engine, and with the Starter Motor in Operation.
When in "Starting Mode", the Engine's "Starter Motor", just might Draw as much as, oh, could be about, and up to about 200 Amps (aka, Amperes), depending on, just How much Power/Torque, that the Engine demanded of that poor ole Starter Motor.
Now then, with All of that Electrical Current being "Drawn" (up to, maybe 200 Amps), from the Vehicle's Battery, has me thinkin', that, the Battery's "Voltage", would probably "Drop", to somewhere, in the neighborhood, of oh, about "9-Volts" maybe, thus, as I see, would be the reason, that, there is usually, a "Separate" Battery nominal 12-Volt Supply Wire, which, will usually "By-Pass" the "Ballast Resistor" all-together...!!!...
...then...
...once the Engine "Starts, and keeps Running", the Position of the Ignition Key/Switch, goes from..."Starting Position"...to the..."Run Position"...and as I've learned/experienced, while the Ignition Switch/Key is in the "Run" Position, the Battery's nominal 12 Volts, could be "Increased" to, oh about, 14.5 Volts, when the Vehicle's "Charging System" becomes "Operational", and, the "Ballast Resistance", that, was like I said earlier, was in the Form of, a "Resistance Wire" (General Motors), or, of the "Ceramic" Type, which will "Reduce" or "Limit" the Electrical "Current", that will result in the "Correct"...Voltage "Drop", that will be "Low" enough to keep the Ignition Coil from "Burning Up", as well as...Not being "Too Low", as that would make for, one, "Not So Good" & probably, quite "Weak" and maybe "Not Functioning"...Ignition Coil.
So, in a Nut-Shell, here's what we have...
...and...
...a very Good comparison, would be, just like the following, and shall we also say...descriptive...good ole saying...
...and, that saying is...
..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!...
...or, as in...
...it "Only" takes "One" Questionable/Intermittent/Not so Good...Electrical Component or Wiring "Connection", to mess things up, which keeps Us All, from havin' a good day...
...with all that, said and done, I would like to end with...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Good for you - I feel sorry for all of the people on here with child-like attention spans who are quicker to "type" a response than "listen" to the lesson. "If you're talking, you're not listening. If you're not listening, you're not learning." I like how people who come to you for help and advice, take it willingly and then give you insults and poor manners in return. You're awesome! Keep going!
Greetings Matt Kaiser....Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and the words that you said in Your Comment, that "Reflect", Your Intelligence, Compassion, and also, a very Good Analogy, on how a Person, should really Conduct Him/Herself, in order to Gain, the Most Information Possible, from the Person that is Offering Useful Information, that just may be Beneficial to the Person receiving it, that is Genuinely Interested, in the Subject that's being Offered at the time....For some strange reason lately, an older Actor's Name keeps popping into my head, and, maybe, just maybe, I might just know the reason why....The Actors Name, happens to be "Yul Brynner" (I think it's pronounced...Yule Brenner)....I sure don't look anything like him, but, I think that there just be something about His Voice, that has me thinking somewhat, that perhaps one day, I will be able to reach People, with a Voice like Yul's, that will have an Effect on them, just as Yul's Voice had an Effect on me, but hey, who really knows, only time will tell.
A Person Must Always Remember, that, when they Deposit something on the Internet, it goes "World-Wide", and, it might just stay in "Cyber-Space" Forever!!!
Perhaps the RUclips Videos that I have made so far, as well as the Videos that I plan to make in the Future, may very well be, part of my "Legacy" for "All" to Enjoy, and hopefully, Benefit from as well, and, I say again, only time will tell.
Just Imagine now, if All of Us Folks on Planet Earth were "Clones", and were cut from the same Cloth, or, Extracted from the same Mold?
Wouldn't be much fun with that Scenario, huh?
That's why, the Power, or Powers that be, made us all "Unique", and in the Form of "Individuals", and, see how much more Interesting, and Fun, it actually is, as compared to, shall we say, "Zombies?"
I mentioned in a previous Reply/Comment, that I posted not all that long ago under one of my RUclips Videos, that I Welcomed "ALL" Comments, under my RUclips Videos, be them...(I'll even ramp up the words a wee bit) Good, Bad, or just plain UGLY!!!...lol...(Thanks, Clint Eastwood).
Maybe those (very, very few) Individuals, that Were Not, all that pleased with some of the Videos of mine, Posted that very Entertaining, and looked like, they got up on the wrong side of the bed, on that day, might come back, and have a Look-See, at, well at least the "View Count" on this here Video...
Will you Permit Me, to "Toot-My-Own-Horn?" (Telepathy is like Snail Mail today, for some reason)...
I think I heard a very faint...y...e...s
All-Righty then...
Drum Roll Please...
The View Count, that shows at the top of this page indicates...
"66870" Views, and dare I say...Still counting! (Up, I hope!...lol).
Please, don't worry about me, and any of those, Not so Kind Comments that you happen to see, under any of my RUclips Videos, as, not only do I find them quite Entertaining, but, those so called "Interesting" Comments, "Keep-My-Mind-Sharp", and enables me to do Battle (Verbally, that is...lol) with those Not-So-Fun People, that have taken it upon themselves to "Bite-Off-More-Then-They-Can-Chew", when it comes to trying to "Out-Wit", Me, Myself, and I.
Me Awesome?...Nah, I'm just taking the Advice from a Fellow Online Video Gamer, that I use to play with/against a few years back...
...but, I would like to say, that His Advice was..."Awesome", that's for sure...
His "Advice" was really simple, and that Advice was...
..."Just Be Yourself"....I didn't talk...just listened...
You said for me..."To Keep Going, right?"...
"Your Wish is My Command!"...
ps, You Only have 2-Wishes Remaining, as, I happen to be...
...the "Genie" that You let out of the Bottle, when You "Un-Corked-It!!!"
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Life is too short to hurry through it. Nicely done Rocky !!.
Greetings...vetterfellow.............Thanks kindly, for your nice comment, oh, and, thanks for watching too...........Well, I heard, quite some time ago, that, an ignition coil might wear out, due to "thermal cycling" (I think?), where-by, an ignition coil might start out very cold, temperature-wise (let's think in terms of, something like winter, way up north, shall we), then, that poor ole ignition coil, starts getting heated-up to operating temperature, while in operation, then, after the engine gets turned off, back to cold, "it" goes again.............Now then, let's say, that the car, truck, or what-ever, only gets used once per day, then, I'm thinkin' that, that alone, would amount to 365 "thermal cycles" per year.............Then, multiply 365 x (times) the number of years, that, the ignition coil can still do its job properly...Holy-gwalk-ah-moly, that's a lot of contracting & expanding, that, that poor ole ignition coil, has to endure, and, that's only based on, "one thermal cycle per day"...!!! (probably be much more, for a vehicle, that has to fetch...kids...groceries...beer...&...go to work too...lol)............Just recently, I got curious, as to the diameter, of both, the primary windings, and the secondary windings, that get hidden away, inside of, an automotive type of ignition coil............The primary wire (windings) diameter, is quite thick, when being compared to, that of, the secondary wire (windings) diameter............I'm not sure about the primary wire size/diameter, oh, maybe between, about 1/32, to almost 1/16th of an inch maybe, but, the secondary wire diameter, can probably be compared to, the size (diameter) of, now get this, a...Human Hair...!!!...Wowsers...!!!...&...that be, about .003" (three thousandths of an inch) in diameter (impressive, I must say)...........Generically speaking, there are about 100 turns of secondary wire/windings, for every one turn, of primary wire/windings (quite the turns ratio alright)...........That turns ratio difference, is pretty much, what increases that nominal, 12 volt battery voltage, up-to, the many thousands of volts, that are required, in order to create, that good ole "spark", between the spark plug's electrodes, in general terms, that is...........I sure as heck, would never, ever, even want to attempt, trying to hand-wind, those .003" diameter secondary windings...no way...but, in my teen years, I did hand-wind, a few slot car motor's, 3 pole armatures, and that, was about as close ,as I'll probably ever get, to becoming a "watch-maker", oh, and yes, of course, a..."Rolex"...watch-maker...!!!...lol...........Thanks again, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When you are ohm testing a coil positive and negative doesn't matter you're checking for resistance in the coil it's important to have the ohmmeter set at the correct settings primary and secondary
the best coil test vid combined with the moss engineering films am ready to test again :)
Greetings Paul Johnson....Thanks kindly, for your very nice comment, my Friend....I'm not sure if I happened to mention some things in this Video, that I will let you know about now....Make sure that, All "Wiring" is Disconnected from your Ignition Coil when you Test it with the Ohm-Meter (Multi-Meter), for the reason that, your "Ohm-Readings", probably Won't be "Accurate", because of the "Extra" Wiring (and maybe other components like "Switches", and, General Motors use of a "Resistance Wire", and, Other Vehicles that may have "Ballast Resistors", in the Electrical "Circuit", just before, that there Oil Filled Ignition Coil) gets Added into an Electrical "Circuit" (Yes-Siree-Bob), as, we Don't want any "Circuit" to Mess-Up the Ohm Readings that we are after, as it applies to the Primary, and, Secondary "Coils" that are "Hiding", inside that there, Oil Filled Ignitions Coils Metal Cylindrical Shaped Metal Containment Shell (or, Body, if you will)...and...(I'm not sure why, but, I sure do Like to "Play" with "Words", as you can see!...lol)....(I figure that, If I keep things Easy Going, with a Bit of "Fun", thrown in for good measure, that it just might make the Learning Experience, or Information Gathering, and, along with (I hope), Entertainment value as well), have my Videos (and Comment Section too), that much more Enjoyable, for the Folks that are looking for Information that I have "Locked" away inside all of these Videos.
So, for all of You Folks that are Reading these words, here and now, Please feel free to "Un-Lock" the Information inside any of my Videos, any time that You care to....(hands You the "Key!"...lol).
Take care Paul, and, have a good one.
Rocky, great instructional video. Never mind the criticisms, you do a great job of assuming that your viewer has no prior knowledge and that's the way to teach!
+hindflight R ....Greetings hindflight R....Thanks for the nice comment, as I do, really appreciate it...................Well, once I hit the Record Button on the Video Camera..."Away I Go"...!!!...lol...and even I'm quite surprised, at just how long (time-wise, that is), that some (maybe most?), of my RUclips Videos seem to go on for....................Also, when-ever Someone, puts out Information to the Masses (aka, People in Public), then, that Someone, should be ready, for any forth coming (as You put it), "Criticisms"................Hmmmm...maybe it's kinda like, putting a Restaurant's (food) Menu, on the table, (in front of those Hungry Customers...!!!...lol), and, I'm pretty darn sure, that (are You ready for this one...?), as in..."You can please, some of the People some of the time...but...You can Never, please All of the people All of the Time...!!!...lol (was I even close, with that good ole sayin' at all...???)......................Thanks again, for Your Super comment, and.........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
The man makes a DETAILED video to help folks out and all he gets is insults from some people. if he could take the time to make the video to help YOU, why cant you take the time to watch and appreciate it. I dont get it
My guess is that some people don't have 20 minutes to spend on effectively 4 minutes of information. People like concise and efficient videos. That's my guess.
Thanks!!! Helped a lot and helped me understand the workings of an Ignition Coil, thanks!!!
Joe Grove Greetings Joe Grove....You are very Welcome, and, Thanks for watching, and for, Your Super comment as well................................................I'm glad, that this RUclips video of mine, was somewhat able, to help You understand, what's basically going on, with this type of..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...and, it usually..."Outputs"..."Less Secondary High Voltage"...to the Spark Plugs, as compared to some of the, shall we say..."High Energy" (aka, in terms of something like a General Motors/Chevy...etc., HEI, or High Energy Ignition...Ignition Coil, that is some cases, has an Epoxy Type of Ignition Coil, mounted right "In", and on Top of the Distributor's, distributor Cap, that I've seen, since about 1975)..............................................The..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...that You see in this video of mine, had a few Things to be aware of, as well as, something like, having only, .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch) Spark Plug "Gaps" (as opposed to, some of the Spark Plug "Gaps", that can be anywhere from, .045" to .080"...that be, forty-five thousandths of an inch, and, as I've seen, up to, eighty thousandths of an inch...!!!...in an Ignition System, that had, the, shall we say..."Higher Energy/Higher Secondary Voltage"...Ignition Coils).......................................................Just keep in mind, that whenever the Spark Plug "Gap-Size" gets Larger, the Higher the Ignition Coil's..."Secondary High Voltage Output"...has to be, in order to be able to..."Jump the Larger Gap"...between the Spark Plug's..."2 Electrodes"............................................Also, whenever the Spark Plug's "Gaps" Increase, due to the Electrical "Arcing/Spark" Erosion (wear), more-so, on the Older, Regular type of spark plugs, this "Extra" spark plug "Gap", puts quite a "Strain", on the Ignition Coil, and also, just like a Bank Account running out of Money, an Ignition Coil, can also run out of, what is known as..."Ignition Reserve".............................................That's when, the Ignition Coil, can, shall we say..."No Longer Keep Up"...with the amount of..."High Secondary Voltage"...that, those "Worn out Spark Plugs"...with the..."Increased Gaps"...are..."Demanding"...in order to, be able to..."Make the Jump"...between those..."2, Increased Gap, spark plug Electrodes"...due to that..."Spark/Arc Erosion" (Wear, Worn, or Worn-out spark plugs)...that I was mentioning just a short time ago...................................................In most cases, that I've seen, these "Oil Filled Ignition Coils", with a few exceptions (as some of the oil filled ignition coils, might have internal winding specifications, that, as I see it, should eliminate the need for an "External" ballast resistor), have, what is referred to, as a..."Ballast Resistor"...and usually, found in the Wiring Circuit, just before the Oil Filled type of Ignition Coil, in the form of, a "Ceramic Type" (usually white-ish in color)...or, in some General Motors (up to about 1974) Vehicles...a..."Special Resistance Wire"...which, will..."Reduce the Primary, Battery Voltage"...that goes to the Ignition Coil...(now get this)...which will also..."Reduce the Oil Filled Ignition Coil's, Secondary High Voltage Output"...!!!.............But why, You ask...???.............So, that poor ole, Oil Filled (type), of Ignition Coil..."Does Not Burn Itself Out"...due to having, shall we say..."Too long of a Saturation Time" (aka, called Dwell, which is the time it takes, to charge up the ignition coil...Before it goes "Zap"), with, Too High of a..."Primary" (full Battery Voltage)...(as opposed to, the "Reduced Voltage", that the Ballast Resistor...Supply's...to the oil filled type of Ignition Coil).................................................So, always..."Make Sure"...that You..."Purchase/Buy, and Install"...the..."Exact, and Specified"..."Ignition Coil"..."Ballast Resistor" (if so equipped?)...and..."All Specified Parts"...for Your..."Exact, Ignition System"...that is..."In Your Vehicle"...as well as, the..."Correct Spark Plugs"...that have the Spark Plug..."Electrodes, Gapped"...to the..."Specified Gap Setting"...so that Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil"..will be able to..."Give a Good Strong Spark, at All Times"...and also, for it to Live, a Long Happy Life as well, that will also, spare You, from spending Money needlessly, on a "New" Ignition Coil (and maybe Other Parts, as well perhaps?).............................................One other thing..............Although, just about any Ignition Coil, might..."Test OK"...with an..."Ohm/Multi-Meter"...there are times, quite rarely at that, that, an...Ignition Coil"...can sometimes..."Not Work Properly" (perhaps Intermittently)...or maybe..."Not At All"...when it..."Heats Up" (ballpark scenario = fully warmed up Engine, to Operating Temperature perhaps)............................Last, but not least, there is, a really good ole Saying, that I like to use, at times (maybe even Over-Use...lol), and that good ole saying is..."The Chain is only as Strong as the Weakest Link" (as in Snap!), when it comes to, just about anything, but seeing as how the subject matter, is about a Vehicle's Ignition System, and its Component Parts, Wiring, and the "Ignition Coil" itself, all it takes is..."One Little, Bad/Faulty, Wiring Connection"...or..."Faulty Part"...to keep Our, usually..."Quite Reliable Ignition System"...from..."Doin' its Thing"...Properly, and as it should...............................................................Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment, my Friend....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Your welcome and Thanks for this extra info!! I know a lot about motors and the mechanics of them, I have a 1932 chevy coupe rat rod, a 1967 Kaiser M715, and a few bikes. My only problem was electronics. But thanks again!!
awesome video, thanks for your time. Helped me alot with my project.
Greetings...Jesse Flaman...........Thanks for the nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too...........Here's some info for Ya............Even though a certain type of Ignition Coil, appears to look about the same, as some of the other ones out there, while looking at the outside of it, then please, don't assume, that, they share the Same "Specifications", and depending on how an Ignition Coil is to be used, and, in what-ever application, it just might be, then, if the (ignition) "Circuit", is Not Correct/close enough, then, the Ignition Coil in question, might end up having, a Low Output, or, might even end up, having that poor ole Ignition Coil, Over-Heat, and Fry itself..............From what I recall, each type of Ignition Coil, has a Saturation (charge-up) Time (usually measured in milliseconds, as in, one thousandths of a second, time-wise), and, should only be Saturated/Charged-Up, with Up-to, the Maximum number of Amps/Amperes, that is Specified, for that Exact ignition coil, and probably, for not too long, time-wise either, and will probably have a primary voltage rating as well..............If the Amps, get too High, and for too long, time-wise, then, more than likely, that poor ole Ignition Coil will probably get way too Hot, and Cook itself.................Also, make sure that the Voltage input, on the Primary/Low Volts side, of that particular Ignition Coil, is as Specified, as some of the much older Ignition Coils, or maybe certain applications, are rated for 6-Volts (not the more common, 12-Volt ignition coils, that we are seeing in vehicles these days)..............Some of the older Points and Condenser Distributors, that controlled the Saturation/Charge-Up time, for the cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils (like the one that I used as a Prop, in this RUclips video of mine), usually had a fixed Dwell (charge-up) time, and, for a V-8 engine, it was usually fixed, at about 30 (distributor) Degrees, and was, way too Much dwell (time), at idle speed, so, a Ballast Resistor (be it, a special Resistance Wire, or, the whitish colored, Ceramic Block type), had to be placed, in the (engine) "Run" Circuit (not the Starting Circuit), so, as to, Lower the Amps, that were fed to the Primary side of the ignition coil, in order to protect the ignition coil, from excessive Heat and Destruction..............Some of the cylindrically shaped/oil filled Ignition Coils, had a Higher Resistance, on the Primary (low volts side)...for example, probably a bit higher than 3 Ohms, and, might not need a separate Ballast Resistor at all, seeing as how, the Primary Resistance was already adequate, for that particular ignition system/circuit..............To equal that, just higher than 3-Ohms, stand alone ignition coil, just mentioned, and using, something like, a slightly higher than, 1.5 Ohm (primary resistance) ignition coil, then, all we have to add (into the circuit), is a Ballast Resistor, that will make up, that Extra 1.5 Ohms, or a bit higher, that, when both added together, will equal that stand alone ignition coil's primary Resistance, that was just over, that, about 3 ohms, primary Resistance value.............Now why bother using a Ballast Resistor at all...???...well, here's probably why..............When the engine's Starter Motor is in operation, it can draw, up to about 200 Amps, give or take some, and then, the Voltage, will usually Drop down Lower, oh, maybe down to about 9 Volts (in a 12 Volt battery System), and, the Output, of that, just over 3-Ohm ignition coil, would probably be quite Weak, oh and, a Cold engine, needs all the help it can get, ignition-wise, that is...............Now then, by using a 1.5 Ohm ignition coil, "Without" the Ballast Resistor, in the Starting Circuit, then, this ignition coil's Output would probably be quite Strong, seeing as how it's only working with that, about 9 Volts, that's available, when the Starter Motor is workin'...............But, once the engine Starts, the ignition Key/Switch, then goes, into the "Run" position, and Adds-in the Ballast Resistor, in that (Run) Circuit, so once, Full Battery Voltage (and Amps) are available again (cuz, the starter motor is now ah-sleep...lol), and the (battery) charging system kicks in, we now have, just over 3 Ohms of Resistance, being the primary resistance of the ignition coil (1.5 ohms)...Plus...the Ballast Resistor's Resistance (1.5 ohms), added together, which ends up being about the same, as that, just above, 3 ohm ignition coil, which will keep the Amps, that are fed to the ignition coil, from getting too high, and the ignition coil, won't be getting too Hot, and going Kaput..............The above, is just an example, to hopefully, be of some help to You (I hope)...............Good Luck with Your project, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Nick McCullough....Thanks kindly, for your Awesome comment, my Friend....I just try to keep things simple, especially for someone that is just getting started...I had some phenomenal Mentors, and Teachers in the past, and, through my experience, while learning from them, they always took their time, and explained things, much like I do, to this day....Mothers out there, deserve so much more appreciation for what they have done, and what they do, for all of their children....Take care
very good informative video thanks, I've always wanted to learn about coils.
Greetings Richard Norton....You are welcome, and, I'm glad that You liked what I had to show and tell, You and Others (in this video of mine), about, a rather simple way, that a Person can at least, Test and See, that, the particular Ignition Coil being Tested, doesn't have any "Open" or "Shorted"..."Windings" (aka, the 2 rather long wires that Form each Coil inside this type of ignition coil), when being Tested with an Ohm/Multimeter....This so called Ignition Coil Test (in this video), is really, only, the "Tip of the Iceberg", so to speak, as, Ignition Coils, can at times "Miss-Behave", when they "Heat-Up" to Operating Temperature (and that usually includes, that nice Hot engine compartment as well).
It's also Very Important, that, "All" Wiring, and Wiring "Connections" be 100% Clean and Dry, or, Ignition Problems might start Happening!
Like You, I do find it rather "Fascinating", that the Ignition Coil can actually "Change" the 12 Volts (or whatever the Battery Voltage happens to be in a particular Vehicle, with some having a 6 Volt Battery), and shall we say "Boost" that quite Low Battery Voltage, into a Voltage, that is usually in the "Thousands of Volts"...!!!
Be Very Careful while being near any of that "High Voltage Electricity", while the Engine is Running, that comes out of the Ignition Coil, and any of the Ignition System's "Secondary Circuitry" (aka, spark plug "Wires/Leads"), because, if there happens to be a "Faulty" spark plug "Wire/Lead", that Very "High Voltage" can Really "Zap" You...!!!
Also, "Watch Out" for any "Hot and Moving" Parts...!!!
Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment...
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for adding to my knowledge, much appreciated, this was the only video that covered the entire spectrum, in basic and added advanced tips ,things i knew and things i learned. Save n for my references for for future refreshing memory,
Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and thanks, for your nice comment, and for, watching too...…….Even though, an ignition coil, might check out alright, and, it's within specifications, while doing a low and high ohms test, and is, at room temperature, for example, then, that's not always, a guarantee, that, it will work properly, when it heats up to operating temperature, where sometimes, a faulty, (older?) ignition coil, might not work properly, just so Ya know...……...There's a thing, usually called thermal cycling, where-by, something like, the ignition coil's windings, are kinda cool, temperature-wise, before the engine is started, then, once the ignition coil heats up to operating temperature (maybe even higher, due to engine compartment heat), with the engine running, then, let the expanding begin, then, the engine is shut down, then, all of those coil windings, do the contracting (shinking) thing, and, this, so-called, thermal cycling, pretty much happens, every time, that the engine gets started and stopped, over, and over again...……..Might be, that, the secondary coil windings, are about the same diameter (thickness), as a human hair, there-abouts, and, there are probably thousands of turns, that make up that very same, (secondary) coil (of windings)…!!!...Wowsers…!!!...lol...…….So, yeah, there can come a time, maybe, where an ignition coil, just, plain wears out, and probably applies more to, the oil filled (canister, type of) ignition coil, I be thinkin'...….and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow you have no idea how suprised i was ,to see a reply.. never expected ,nor thoughg of , for that matter. After reading, to discover, even more that i was unaware of.. amd for mynew recent learning. Thats what is comeimg in to play ,with my trouble shooting , you just saved me closee to half day of diginose in ,,,THANK YOU so much ,,
Yaknow theirs alot of time ive wasted , problem solving,and that time i wont getpack.. its rare that im given time back ... so thx for give n me a day .. and knowinh how things are im sure,it wil, bewasted on another project, , lol. But not all of it lol. Lessons learned applied.. thx
Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and, it's good to know, that, some of this stuff, was able to help you out a bit...……..Try to keep all of the parts and pieces, that make up your vehicle's ignition system, in, as new, working condition, as well as, adjusted/set to specifications, as in, the spark plug's "gap", that's between those two electrodes (please note, that, some spark plug designs, are not "gapable/adjustable", or maybe, they could get damaged)…………Always use, an ignition coil, or coils, as the case may be, that have the same, "Exact Specifications", as the factory/manufacturer's "Original" one has...……..As an example, on some of the much older, cylindrically shaped, and filled with oil, ignition coils, there use-tah be, either, 1.5 ohms, or, 3 ohms, "Primary" resistance, and, the 1.5 ohm coil, would probably have had, a ballast resistor, in its electrical circuit, where-as, the 3 ohm coil, would have, probably not, used one at all...!!!...……….So yeah, always use the "correctly specified" ignition components, that, that particular vehicle's engine, calls for, and needs, and...…..till next time...…...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thanks for vid ,very helpful ,like the way you explain down to earth ,
good work buddy. so detailed in your explanation!
chummel123 Greetings chummel123....Thanks for Your Great comment, and for watching as well, my Friend..........................................Most of the RUclips Videos, that I have made so far, are pretty much done, without a Script or Tele-Prompter, well, with the exception of the odd note, with some numbers/specifications, written on a piece of paper, and off to the side, from time to time, and out of the Camera's field of view, and, for the most part, once the Video Camera's Record Button gets pressed, then, what the Video Camera, is actually picking up, Audio-wise, as to what-ever it is, that I'm Saying, at any particular point in time, in any given Video, really is, shall we say..."Live"...well, at the point in time, that the Video Camera is actually Recording, that is............................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...sure, I'm gonna be makin' a Mistake here and there, and the evidence is readily, either, Heard or Seen, in any of my Videos, and, when-ever I happen to make, a, shall we say..."Boo-Boo"...then, there it is, but hey, that was pretty much my intention all along, and, I guess, that One could say, I'm just being "Real", as opposed to, all of that..."Glitz & Glam"...and that, shall we say..."Alternate Reality"...when-ever, You or I, happen to be "Immersed"...in a..."CGI-Like-Environment"...or the like.................................About the only Editing, that is done, to any of my RUclips Videos, would usually be that, of adding a Speech Bubble, every now and again, where I figure, any given Video, would benefit from having one or more of them, added to "It".............................Thanks again, for Your much appreciated comment...................Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
good work mate. this will help me. well researched, and explained.
+bargwahn89 ....Greetings bargwahn89....Thanks for the great comment, and, Thanks for watching too..................There appears to be..."No End in Sight"...when it comes to the Automobile, and other Things, that have Engines, in/on them as well, that's for sure (I think...???...lol)..................If You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, feel free, to post a comment or question, under any of my RUclips Videos, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You will make a great teacher. Thanks
+Cobby Sparks ....Greetings Cobby Sparks....Thanks for watching.................Well, I sure appreciate, what You said, about me, making a great teacher, and thanks kindly for that..................Even I'm kinda surprised, at how long I was talkin', in this RUclips, Ignition Coil Video of mine, and, perhaps it could very well be, as they say, as in..."Time really Flies"...!!!...lol.............If an Ignition Coil, Checks out Ok, Ohms/Resistance-wise, there can be times (rarely), where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-Up, and Not work so good, once it warms/heats up-to Operating Temperature, which might result in, some Ignition related Misfiring (basically, just means, that, the Air/Fuel Mixture, in any of the Engine's Cylinders, isn't Burning properly)....................Thanks again, for Your nice comment, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 1978 dodge pickup with a slant 6 that uses that exact same coil I've even seen other vehicles built in the early and middle 80's that still had that coil ignition system installed in them straight from the factory
Thanks for video. By chance I also have Dodge 360. I am not getting spark from coil. Replaced the coil, ballast resistor, and Ecm. Question: if the distributor is bad (no magnetic pick up signal sent to Ecm), could this prevent Ecm from ever sending spark signal to the coil? Thanks for any advice.
Thanks for the video mate. Nicely explained.
+john wright Greetings john wright....Thanks for watching, and Thanks, for Your very Appreciated comment, as well, my Friend............................We, just have to remember, to always "Check/Verify", the Ohm-Meter or Multi-Meter, for "O or Zero" Ohms/Calibration, especially so, when-ever, about to take/measure, those very "Low Ohms" Readings, on the Primary side, of an Ignition Coil, for Accuracy's sake, that's for sure.......................I should also add, that, even though a certain Ignition Coil, tests out OK, Ohms-wise, while usually being at about room temperature, there-abouts, there can be a times, where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-up, and, not work so well, or, maybe stop working all-together, once, that now (Ohms-Un-Detect-able), Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, or hotter...!!!.............................Just goes to show, that, "Ohm's Testing", an already used Ignition Coil, might not be, the, Be-All-End-All "Test", to confirm, it to be 100% Good and Functional, and, I guess, that, One could say, that, it's just one more, of "Life's"...little........................."Surprises"...lol........................Thanks again, and...........till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings San Ozi....You are welcome, and, thanks for your comment....For the most accurate reading/readings on both Digital, and Analogue (analogue meter has the needle pointer/indicator) Meters, it is usually best, to select the "Lowest-Range" that will still "Display" a proper reading, without having the Meter in question, going out of "Range"....Take my Yellow-Digital-Multi-Meter for example....If I select a Range that is too Low for the measurement that I'm trying to test...(con't)
thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I wonder about the ohm range, what is better to be in the hi end of the range to say this is a good coil or the other way around? as if i want to know if my car coil is going bad.
Thanks for your time and great video!!!
Stone Rinaldi Greetings Stone Rinaldi....You are Welcome, and, Thanks, for the nice comment, that You posted here, as well, my Friend........Well, this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video, sure turned out to be, Rather Long, Time-wise, that is, and, seeing as, I guess, One could say, that, "Time Fly's", as it really did, while I was Making this particular Video, and, even I was Surprised, when I looked at the, shall we say, "Running Time/Length", of this, perhaps, Too Long/total running time, Video of mine, had me Thinkin', for quite some time, that, perhaps, "I Really Should Make a Shorter Version", of this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video...and..."I DID"...lol..........................................It's on My RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow...and also, I Did Make, a "Shorter Version", of an "HEI" Ignition Coil Testing Video, as well ("HEI"...stands for, "High Energy Ignition", Distributor/System, that, GMC/General Motors, started to Install on Their Vehicles, starting, oh, about 1975, there-abouts), and, I'm currently, Making a RUclips..."Video Series"...about, just that (so far, I have made "3-Videos")...........Well, there You have it, for now, that is..............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Good job! I needed this!
Greetings Keith Nordquist....Thanks for the nice comment, my Friend, and, it's nice to know, that my Video was able to help you out as well....Just remember, that an Ignition Coil is just "One Part" of the entire Ignition System, as, it only takes "One" questionable (not so good) Wiring "Connection" to prevent your Ignition System from Functioning at its "Best!" (or, at all, for that matter).
Take care, and, have a good one.
Those oil filled coils are great coils. Will last many years. They HAVE TO BE INSTALLED VERTICALLY OR STRAIGHT UP. Reason is yes they have oil inside that cools the wires. But there's an air bubble also inside. Which mounted sideways or horizontally, that air bubble uncovers some wire and the wire overheats. Which leads to the coil not working properly.
Greetings jim Davidson..................Thanks for watching...............I agree with You, about having, both, the Primary & Secondary Coil Windings, "Totally Submerged", in that, shall we call it, "Cooling Oil" alright, if possible, that is...................You'd think that, the Dodge, Factory/Folks, would think the same, as in "Vertically Mounting" the oil filled type of Ignition Coil, as in, the Secondary, High Voltage "Tower", pointing Up-Wards, towards the Sky, but, this particular oil filled Ignition Coil, that You saw, in this RUclips Video of mine, was Factory mounted, in the "Horizontal" position, at the back, and on top-of, the small block V-8's Intake Manifold, by means of a metal bracket........................This, slightly Leaking Oil, Ignition Coil of mine, was, and is, still Ok, but, I installed a brand spankin' New one, that I purchased, at a genuine, Dodge Dealership, back in the day.......................I recall, hearing-about, someone, who was sayin' that, when the (oil filled, type of) Ignition Coil (of his or hers) was Shaken, a quite pronounced, shall we say, "Sloshing Sound" was heard, which leads me, to be thinkin', that, our Friend, the "Air Bubble", just might be very BIG at that, and I hope not, cuz of, the increased possibility, of "it", perhaps Over-Heating, and going Kaput...!!!...Yikes...!!! (and, I'll even throw in a lol, just for good measure as well...lol).......................So then, assuming, that our (hypothetical & Imaginary), oil filled, type of Ignition Coil, happens to be "Vertically" mounted, with the Maximum amount of (cooling) Oil permissible, inside of it, is only the start (of things), as in, the Ignition Coil, has to be With-in the ohms/resistance "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and now the rest.................If the Ignition System/Circuit, happens to have, the good ole, oil filled type of Ignition Coil, along with, oh, lettuce say, it's the AC Delco, Points & Condenser, type of, V-8 Distributor (used, up-till, about 1974 there-abouts, that has that slide-up & down, sheet metal "window", on the distributor cap, that allows access, with a Hex/Allen-key, to adjust the points-dwell/gap), shall we, then, the Condenser (aka, Capacitor), that's usually Hiding-inside the distributor, under the distributor cap, has to have, the "Specified" Condenser (probably Rated in Micro-Farads), for that "Exact" Ignition System/Circuit as well, and there's even More, to all of this, as well (still Awake...???...lol).............If there happens to be a "Ballast Resistor" (Ceramic, or, Resistance Wire type, then "it" has to be With-n "Specifications" as well....................Now then, I'll end all of this Madness, with the Spark Plug's "Gap" (that's between the two Electrodes).................The Higher, the Engine's Compression Ratio, along with, a LARGER, spark plug "Gap", pretty much, makes it so, that, our, poor ole Ignition Coil, has to Work, all that much harder, seeing as how, it makes it, much more of a challenge, to be able to create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, now that, and as I mentioned before, about the Higher Compression Ratio, in conjunction with, that Increased, and quite LARGE spark plug "Gap", and, as I like to put it, is that, it Creates, quite the "Strain", on the Ignition Coil...!!!....and maybe, so much so, that, this particular Ignition Coil...gets...Over-Worked...and will probably...Over-Heat...and go..."Kaput"...!!! (aka, Non-Functional anymore).................Just thinkin'........some Folks, might just Install, an Ignition System, "Component/Part" or two, that might "Not-Be"...With-in "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and I'll even bet, that, so many of the Problems, that we hear-about, are probably, due to the "Miss-Matched" Ignition Parts, Not-Getting-Along-With-Each-Other, which will probably make-for, a Poorly Running Engine, or, an Engine, that might not even Start, when all's said and done...???...................So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Holy crapshoot I fell asleep before you got to the point. Nice life story
Greetings Paul Brenton....Good job on your calculations....The Oil Filled Ignition Coils put out about 30,000 Volts Max, and the Epoxy type of Ignition Coils put out about 50,000 Volts Max (as I recall)....Although you may have primary and secondary resistances as measured at the Ignition Coil Terminals with an Ohm Meter, you can't use those figures to calculate the output voltage of the coil....The Voltage gets stepped up according to the Primary vs Secondary Windings Turns Ratio....(con't)...
Greetings anibalcarta....You're welcome, and thanks for your great comment as well...Seeing as how you have a "Timer" (not a distributor), and a single Lobe on the Timers shaft, and the fact that the 2 spark plugs fire at the very same time, has me thinking that the Timers shaft, should be turning at the same RPMs (Revolutions Per Minute) as the Crankshaft (as opposed to the conventional operational characteristics of the common Points style of Distributor for a 4-Stroke-Cycle Engine)...(con't)
Many thanks got the info I needed. As for the ignorant ones, he was probably thinking of you. Every body learns differently so he is explaining it for all the different levels of knowledge and learning capability. Didn't see you yobbos putting anything relevant up and it's easy to see how you were bought up
+Gavin Harrison ....Greetings Gavin Harrison....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for Your Great Comment, oh and, Thanks for watching as well, my Friend, and.......till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for this excellent video. Cheers 😀
Great video bud!
good day sir, I really appreciate your answer, what about the coil itself if I may ask you, my coil spec say's its normal range is 8-14 K ohms and reading now 10.8 K ohms. if it's going bad (the coil) would the resistance increase the next time I measure it or decrease?
Greetings San Ozi....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thank You for your great comments....I'm glad that you were able to gain some knowledge from what you saw, and heard in my video....Here's an easy way to learn about different things that you may be interested in, and, want to learn, or learn more about....Here's what I have done for a very long time now....Simply listen to almost everything that anyone has to say, or show you, if it is safe, educational, and interesting to you....Take care
Greetings Ryan Taylor....Thanks for your comment, and, You are welcome....Yeah, I know, that some, if not most Folks these days are in somewhat of a hurry....Funny thing is, just recently, I was contemplating a "Short, and to the Point", making/re-making of some of the Videos that I have already made, and, also, some of the (in the Future) ones as well, for the Folks that are in that Hurry that I had mentioned....Coming soon, (maybe?), "Rockys-Drive-Thru!"...lol...Take care, and have a good one
Greetings Richard Huff....When you took your Ohm-Meter (Multimeter) readings, did you "Disconnect" the wiring that is connected to your Ignition Coil?....Because, if you didn't, that will probably change the reading/readings that you saw....Is your vehicle starting and running good?....There are a multitude of things that can effect how an ignition coil will perform, everything from your battery condition, charging circuit, ignition switch, ballast resistor or resistance wire,....(con't)...
GREAT VIDEO ....FROM CANADA
Good information but kinda painful to watch... This should be a 5 minute video... tops..
Greetings...Brad Miller...............Thanks for watching..............Well, I did make a "Shorter" Version of this particular video, some time ago, and its running time, is about 8 minutes & change (damn, almost down to the 5 minutes that You mentioned...!!!...lol)..............Just make sure, that, when-ever taking an Ohm-Reading, on the Low/Primary side of the Ignition Coil, that, the Ohm-Meter, is Tested for 0/Zero Calibration before-hand, and if it shows anything above 0/Zero Ohms on the Low Scale, when the 2 Ohm-Meter's Probes are connected together, then, that Figure, (if applicable), has to be accounted for, otherwise, there might be a possible situation, where-by, a good Ignition Coil, may appear to be, "not with-in", the Manufacturer's Specifications, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Different people have seen this video & some of them don't know about most of the information you explained in this video , so it must take more
minutes ,therefore this video deserve time which is taken
If you know the 101 in the beginning, no big hassle to forward it test. At least it caters for all groups in 1 simple video!
Good video and explanation of how an ohmmeter works...and forgive me if you mentioned this and I missed it but how do I know if the coil is bad..ie, what readings should be expected when the coil is working/not working. etc? Thank you.
Greetings...Mark h............Thanks for the nice comment, and Thanks, for watching too...........No need to worry about, using, the forgive word, at all, cuz, I'm only too happy, to share with others, what I might know...???...about certain things, and, when it comes right down to it, then, Cars and Trucks, have been, one of my top hobbies, for quite some time now...............The testing of, both, the Primary, and Secondary windings (coils of wire), contained with-in, most, of the common ignition coils, is just telling us, that, both coils of wire (windings), are pretty much, Ok, as long as those Ohms (resistance) readings, are with-in the Manufacturer's "Specifications", for that "Exact" ignition coil, but, a Person, should also keep in mind, that, this "Test", is usually only done, when the ignition coil, is in its "Cool State", temperature-wise, that is...............Although, an ignition coil, might Ohms Test "Ok", while Cool, then, there can be times, where a "Faulty" ignition coil, might, shall we say, will "Start to Act Up" (aka, malfunction), when it gets Warmer/up to operating temperature, and, sometimes, it can result in, an Ignition (system) related "Misfire" (that be, where the compressed, Air/Fuel Mixture, that's inside of, one or more, of the engine's cylinders, Does-Not Burn properly, if at all, and, is sometimes, caused by, one or more spark plugs, that never went "Spark", at that particular time), and sometimes, it might be a Faulty ignition coil, or maybe, it could be something else, as in, ignition system related (cap, rotor, spark plugs, or spark plug wires, if applicable, that is), or perhaps, it might be fuel system related, possibly (gotta remember now, Both, the Ignition system, and, the Fuel system, have to be Working, really good, as a "Team", so to speak, or, if not, then, the Engine, will probably, start to Run, not so good, or might, not even start)............An ignition coil's (2) windings (or, coils of wire), will usually Contract/shrink (when cool), and will probably Expand, some-what (while in operation), and, from what I recall, the term for that, might be called, Thermal-Cycling...............I'm thinkin,' that, all of that, Expanding and Contracting, of the ignition coil's wire/windings, will probably shorten the life-span, of an ignition coil, some-what, quite possibly, but, there are many other things, that can also, shorten the working life of an ignition coil as well..............If something like, one or more spark plug Wires, get broken, or disconnected, then, the ignition coil, will usually, just try to, increase its Power Output, to..."Infinity-and-Beyond"...as in, a Much Higher than wanted, Secondary High Voltage, from the ignition coil, and, will usually Rise-Up, way too High, and put such a Strain, on that poor ole ignition coil, that, it will probably get Over-Stressed, and will probably, Destroy itself...Yikes...!!!.................Spark Plug "Gaps", that are Too BIG, and/or, the Higher, the engine's Cylinder Pressure gets (a high performance engine, for example), will also, make it so, that, the ignition coil has to Work, all that Much Harder as well...............It's also, a good idea, to, Check/Ohms-measure, the Resistance Values, of, things like, Spark Plugs, as well as, all of the spark plug Wires (if applicable, that is), cuz, Too Much Resistance, in the Secondary/High Voltage side, of the ignition system, will probably, make, our poor ole ignition coil, Work, way Harder, than it usually, has to be doing...................The are a few, not too expensive (20 Dollars maybe?)..."Spark Testers"...that can be used, to Test an ignition coil's, High Voltage Output (as in, Stress Testing, an ignition coil)...............Some of the Spark Testers have a Fixed "Gap", between the 2 Electrodes, and, I've also seen, an "Adjustable", type of Spark Tester as well...............Just make sure, that, the "Gap", that's between the 2 Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, is, Set for, the "Correct" Gap, that's Needed/Specified, for the "Exact", ignition coil, that's about to be Tested...!!!...(or "it" might, get Over-Stressed, and possibly Damaged)..............The ignition coil, has to work much harder, as in, much Higher Voltage is needed, to, initiate/create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, while being inside of, an engine's Cylinder, that's, under a Lot of "Pressure", as compared to, just having a spark plug, go Spark, while, out in the Open air/atmosphere, and that's why, You'll probably be seeing, quite a "BIG Gap", in a "Spark Tester", as compared to, that, rather "small" Gap, that You'll usually be seeing, Between the spark plug's Electrodes...............When-ever, replacing an ignition coil, make sure, that, the Ohms/Resistance, for both, the Primary/Low Ohms, and, the Secondary/High Ohms, are With-in, the "Exact Specifications" (Manufacturer's or other-wise), and are, the Same as, the Original ignition coil, cuz, if not, well, might end up being, a Weak spark, at the spark plugs, or maybe, an ignition coil, that Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, and I hope not........and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...here are some starting circuit basics for you....The vehicles battery has to be fully charged, and in good condition....All wiring and connections have to be in good condition, clean and tight...The ignition switch (the thing-ah-ma-bob that you put your ignition key into) has to be in good operating condition, and not worn out...There is also usually an ignition Solenoid either mounted on the starter motor, or mounted separately, usually somewhere in the vehicles engine compartment...(con't)
Very good video! I believe you can test the old Lawn tractor coils that were used with "battery ignition"
maineville prepper Greetings maineville prepper....Thanks kindly, for Your nice comment, and for what You had to say, about the older Lawn Tractor's Ignition system................................................I'm thinkin', that, pretty much, just about any of the Ignition Coils, that were found on "Gasoline"..."Internal Combustion Engines"...(Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, Steam Engines, need not apply...!!!...lol)...could, for the most part, be "Tested" for "Resistance/Ohms Readings", much like I have, in this Ignition Coil Testing, RUclips Video of mine, as long as, the "Ignition Coil" in question has..."2-Primary-Terminals"...and a..."High Output Voltage"..."Tower"...much like, that of what You "See", in this Video of mine....................................................A Person, that might be Testing, any "Ignition Coil", that happens to be on Our Planet to date, should be aware of, the..."Many Differences"...in, what they are Expected to Do/Perform (as in, shall we say, the "Amount" of High Secondary Voltage Output, as an example), and also, the way in which "They" are "Constructed" (as in, Shape, Size, Oil or Epoxy, that is surrounding, all of those, many turns of, usually made of Copper, wire "Windings", that make up, both the Primary and Secondary "Coils", that are usually found, and are Contained with-in, that there Hypothetical/Imaginary Ignition Coil)...........................................................I'll now mention, a few things off the top of my head......................................................There were..."6-Volt"...and..."12-Volt"..."Ignition Coils" (as well as, "6-Volt" and "12-Volt"..."Batteries", that usually went along with them), and also, the "Vehicles"..."Ground"...System, should be "Checked" as well, as, some of the Older Vehicle's "Chassis/Frame", as far as I recall, had what was referred to as "Positive Ground" (+ or Plus Sign), as opposed to, the..."Negative Ground" (- or Minus Sign) System, that, for the most part, can be found on the "Newer" Vehicles, on just about any Street in North America these days.....................................................Usually, the "Oil Filled" Ignition Coils, were, well, kinda held back, from..."Outputting" as High of a "Secondary High Voltage", as compared to something like, the General Motors..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor Unit/System, that used an "Epoxy" type of Ignition Coil............................Why You ask...???.........................Well, there was usually, what is known, as a..."Ballast Resistor" (could be in the form of a Ceramic/Porcelain Block, if You will, or, in the case of the General Motors rendition, there-of, it could also be in the form of a "Special Resistance Wire" as well)............................These "Ballast Resistors", were usually found, in the wiring circuit, just before the Ignition Coil Itself, and, they usually "Reduced" the "Battery Voltage" quite a bit, so the Ignition Coil "Would-Not-Burn-Up", and in the case of a "Points Type" of Distributor, it would also, prevent the "Ignition/Breaker Points"...from..."Electrically Arcing" too much, which would usually result in "Ignition/Breaker Points", that, shall we say..."Wore-Out", way too fast...!!!............The "Oil Filled" type of Ignition Coil Systems, some being "Points Type", and also "Electronic Type" as well, that I've worked on, would usually have a Spark Plug "Gap", of about .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch)...where as, on some of the "HEI" Distributor Systems, I've worked on, I had to "Gap" the Spark Plugs at .080"...!!! (that be, Eighty Thousandths of an inch..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...!!!)..............................................Always "Check" the "Specifications", and the Factory Recommended Procedure/Method, that applies "Exactly" to the "Ignition Coil", and to that of the "Ignition System" that You, or Anyone happens to be working on, both for "Getting it Right, the First Time", as well as..."Doing it Safely as well"..............................................One last thing...............Even though an "Ignition Coil"..."Checks Out OK"...Resistance/Ohms-wise..with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, while being fairly Cool, so to speak, there can be times, and quite rarely as well, where an "Ignition Coil" can start "Acting-Up", as in..."Operating Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...once that Ignition Coil, or, Ignition Coils, as the case may be...get Up-To..."Operating Temperature" (like when the Engine is all fully warmed up), so, please, always keep that in mind, just in case........................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you. That was very helpful.
Greetings Joseph Ficker....You are welcome, and, Thanks for your kind words as well....This particular Ignition Coil Testing video was my first one....I have since made a much "Shorter Version", on how to test that very same Ignition Coil, and, for what it's worth, I thought that I just might mention that....If you care to, I have quite a few Videos pertaining to Automotive stuff, that you might be interested in, on my RUclips Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...in the Search Box, at the top of RUclips's Main Page....That, my Friend, should bring up a Listing of the 70-odd Videos that I have available, at this point in time...Enjoy....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
He's wearing high heels during this.
The "make spagbol for tea" video takes 2 days, and is in 4 parts.
Seriously though, I do like your approach - very relaxing.
Thanks for your video. I understand how you can read the primary side of the coil with the ohmmeter, but how is it that you can get a reading on the secondary side? I thought the primary and secondary windings were isolated from each other?
Greetings R Ward....You are welcome, and, thank You, for watching and commenting on my Ignition Coil (oil filled type) Testing video....Both the "Primary" and "Secondary" Coils (2 sets of wire windings to form each individual coil) contained inside this particular type of ignition coil, "Do Share", "1" of the Threaded (aka, screw thread) Terminals with the small (threaded) Nut that protrudes through the top of this ignition coil....The Primary Coil's ohm reading is really quite easy to understand, as, with connecting the "2" (screw threaded) Primary Terminals to the ohm/multimeters test probes/aligator clips, are actually the "2-Ends" of the Primary Coil itself...
...where-as...
...when it comes to the "Secondary" Coil, "1" end of it gets connected to "1" of the screw-threaded "Posts", that it "Shares" with one end of the "Primary" coil windings ends, and, the "Other End" of that "Secondary Coil" gets connected to the "Secondary" Tower (where the ignition wire gets connected to, in the top center of this ignition coil, and goes to the center of the distributor cap)...
...now it really gets interesting (almost like Rocket Science!...lol)...
...if You, or I, can figure out just which of those "Primary" threaded terminals that "1" end of the "Secondary" Coil gets connected to, and take an ohm reading from there, and hook the other test lead to the Secondary "Tower", I'm quite sure that we would be getting a pretty accurate ohm reading...
...but, wait a minute now (say what?)...
...seeing as how only "1" end of the Secondary Coil's Ends gets connected to "1" of the Primary Terminal "Posts"...What About The "OTHER" primary terminal (screw) threaded "Post", not having the Secondary Coil connected to it, in any way what-so-ever?...
...and...
...how the heck, are we able to obtain a Secondary Coil "Ohm-Reading", when we connect an ohm/multimeter test lead to the threaded Primary Terminal that the darn Secondary Coil "Is-Not" even connected to???...
...(time for some form of investigation, don't-cha think?)...
...here's what I came up with, and, I may have learned something in the process as well (see that, "Miracles" really can happen!!!...lol)...
...Hmmmmm...I figure that, the Reason that we are able to Obtain any "Secondary" Coil "Ohm-Reading" at all, while hooking up one of the ohm/multimeters test leads to that "Primary" threaded terminal, that the Secondary Coil "IS-NOT" connected to, is because, You, or I, and maybe others too, are "Actually", Ohm's/Resistance Measuring the Secondary Coil "THROUGH" the Primary Coil as well...
...but why...
...aren't we "Seeing" an "Increase" in the Ohm's Reading, if we are "Including" the Primary Coil in the very same "Test Circuit", when we are "Testing" the Secondary Coil in this manner?...
...I reckon that...
...seeing as how the Primary Coil Only measures the maximum of about "2" Ohms, that My Ohm/Multimeter, when on the "HIGH" Ohm's Range (or resolution), "WON'T" be able to Display, that very "Small" (about 2 Ohm's max.), and I say again, when the Ohm/Multimeter's Dial is set for a very "High-Range", and in those very High, "Thousands of Ohm's!!!"
So then, as I see it, without even realizing it, we can actually "Include" the Primary Coil, when we only want to measure the Secondary Coils Ohm reading, but wait, there's even more!...
...how about this scenario...
...let's say, for instance, that the Primary Coil is "Fried" (aka, non functional, with no ohm's reading showing what-so-ever on the ohm/multimeter), and...
...then, we happen to measure the Secondary Coil through the Primary threaded Terminal that "Does-Not" have one end of the Secondary Coil ends connected to it, then what...
...Hmmmmmmm...I be thinkin that we "Would-Not" be seeing any Ohms at all on that Ohm/Multimeter Display for the Secondary Coil...cuz...we "Need" to have a "Good" and working Primary Coil to complete the "Test Circuit", when we are "Going Through" the Primary Coil, in order to Test the Secondary coil in the previously described manner...
..so then...
...is it, ''Clear-as-Mud?"...lol...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi, Rock,
Now I know the secret behind ignition coil. Hmm, I'm gonna go fast to test my ignition coil. Thank you! Ba bye!
***** Greetings Romy Nacido....Thanks-ah-Bunch for watching, and for, Your comment as well.............................................."Woah-Nelly"...Slow that darn...too "Fast"...of a..."Horse"...that You're "Ridin'-On"..."Down"...cuz...I-be-Hearin'...that...that there..."New Sheriff"...in Town...is no longer..."Tackin'-Up"..."Wanted Posters"...but...the..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...are Keepin' a Close Eye, on, that there..."Dust Trail"...that, that there..."Too Fast"...of a "Horse"...that...Yur-Ridin'...keeps-on-Leavin'...and...Yew...keeps-on-Breakin'...that there..."Town's Speed Limit"...and...Yew-can-only-gets-away-with-that-there..."Speed-Limit-Breakin'-of-Yers"...fer...Only-So-Long...B-fer...that there..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...Pulls-Yew-and-Yur-too-Fast-Horse-on-Over...and...don't-chew-be-sayin'..."I Don't-be-Warnin'..."Yew"...wen..."Yew-Gets-that-thar"..."Speedin'-Ticket"...!!!.................................................(or, in other words)....................................................Please, don't "Rush" Things, cuz, like that ole Saying goes..."Haste Makes Waste"...as in, You might "Damage" some of Your Vehicle's "Parts"...and..."Even Worse"...when-ever, almost "Anyone" is in a..."Rush"...that will sometimes..."Result in"...a "Person getting Injured"...!!!...............................................................Even though, the particular "Ignition Coil, or Coils" (if that be the case), do happen to "Check Out Alright", in You Vehicle...and are..."Passing"...the, shall we say..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (2 Sets of Coil-Windings, that are contained Inside the Coil's Housing)..."Low and High Ohm's readings"...that fall with-in, the..."Specifications"..for Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil or Coils"...is..."Only One"..."Thing"...that will Indicate, weather or not, "Both" the..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (with-in the Ignition Coil, as a Whole Unit)..."Are Not"..."Shorted Out"...or, have a, shall we say..."Open" (circuit)...as in, a..."Break"...in..."Any"...of the "Primary or Secondary"..."Coil Windings"...!!!...................................................................There, can be times, that, quite..."Rarely"...that, an..."Ignition Coil"...can "Start to"..."Act-Up"...when "It", and the Engine..."Reach Operating Temperature"...and, one of those Problems, that comes to mind (mine, that is)...is, that, the..."Engine Loses Power"...and, might even..."Miss-Fire" (ignition related), when, the..."Engine is Under a Load" (and not, just Cruising Along), and, the Same Scenario, can also be confused with, a "Fuel System Problem" as well...just sayin'..............................................................Make sure, that the Engine is "Cold, and Not Running", when-ever, Doing any Work or Testing, anywhere in the Engine Compartment, and, Keep the Ignition Key, In Your Pocket, or Purse, if applicable...!!!.....................................................The "Wiring", that is..."Connected To"...the Ignition Coil/Coils...."Terminals"...will usually, have to be..."Disconnected"...while doing the...Ignition Coil's..."Primary and Secondary"..."Resistance Readings" (aka, Ohm's Readings), or, the..."Ohm's readings"..."might Not be very Good, or Accurate"...!!!....................................................Another, good ole Saying, and, is quite applicable, in this circumstance, as well, happens to be..."The Chain, is Only as Strong as, the Weakest Link"...!!!..................and, here's why, I like to use, that good ole Saying................................................."All" of the..."Ignition System's"...Wiring...the Ignition Switch...an Ignition Relay (if so equipped)...and any...Terminals, on any of the Ignition System's Component/Parts...which should also Include..."All", of the Connectors at the "Ends" of, any of the Ignition Related "Wires/Wiring"...have to be..."100%", the "Best", that they can be, in order to Provide, the "Best Path"...for any, and all, of the..."Electrical Voltage & Current"...that..."Travels"...Through-out...the Vehicle's..."Ignition System Circuitry"...!!!.............................................Check "All Connections"...for..."Moisture"..."Corrosion"..."Oxidation"..."Oil-like Coating"...etc., which will usually..."Not be so Good"...of a..."Path"...for, Both the...Ignition System's..."Low and High Voltage Electricity"...to...be "Trying" to "Travel Through"...!!!...................................................Remember now..."Slow Down"...or...that there..."Sheriff, and his Posse"...is gonna...be-Givin'...Yew and Yer Horse...that there..."Speedin' Ticket"...!!!...lol......................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Yes sir, I have a boat motor that will start up just fine but will not turn off with the key. Any suggestions? Could I have the coil hooked up wrong?
Should these oil filled coils slosh around like water is in them? My Mallory 29440 sure does. Thanks
thanks this really helped a lot
Greetings...Bigmack73.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Make sure to use the "exact" ignition coil, for your vehicle, or, there might be a problem..........With the older cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, there were basically, two different, low ohms "specifications", on the primary (low ohms) side, of those two sample ignition coils.........Could be, a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, that, also had to have, a "ballast resistor" connected to it, or, it would probably "over-heat", and destroy itself...!!!..........Then, there could be a 3 ohm ignition coil (measured on the primary/low side), that "did not", need a ballast resistor, connected to it at all..........So, always make sure, to install the "exact"..."Specified"...ignition coil, for the vehicle in question, to avoid any problems or expense, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Rocky, I notice you are using an Equus multimeter. What model is it? I like that it measures dwell. I am working on a simple ignition system from the 70's, and that meter looks like it would cover it all ( dwell, resistance, voltage etc. ) without being too much. Cheers, Stephen
Soula Tyrteos Greetings Soula Tyrteos....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment/Question as well...............................................I just had a look-see, at my...Automotive Specific...Yellow Multi-Meter...and, the..."Model Number"...that I see on it, is...70-4369..................................................I'm not all that sure, if "They", still make this particular "Model", as, I think, that it was about, oh, maybe...10 Years ago, give or take a few Years, that, I stumbled upon it, at a local Canadian Tire Store, in the Automotive section, locked up, behind a pair of glass doors, in a display cabinet, and, I had to go "Find", the Person, that worked in the Store, that was able to get the "Key"...to..."Unlock"...the..."Locked"...Glass Doors...!!!...lol...............................If memory serves me right, I believe that I paid about...$85.00 (Canadian Dollars), before taxes, for "It", way back when.......................................................Now then, just remember to "Check" the "Calibration", on the "Low Ohm's Scale", whenever You happen to be taking a Measurement, of a "Low Resistance" Component or Circuit, as, Unlike a good ole "Analogue" Meter or Multimeter (You know, the kind of Meter, that has a "Needle/Pointer" that waves at You, when You put it to use), as, from my experience, using them, they usually had, a rotary "Adjusting" knob, or Thumb/Finger Wheel (potentiometer, or Pot, for short), to..."Zero-Set" (aka, Set to Zero)...the "Needle/Pointer/Indicator", on any of the Ohm's Scale/Ranges, Before, I went ahead, and made those "Ohm's/Resistance" Measurements, with the Probes, as opposed to this "Digital Readout"...Yellow Multi-Meter, of mine, that is shown, in some of my RUclips Videos..."Not Having"...a..."Zero Adjustment"...provision on it...!!!....................................................In the event, that, You are not able to find, this particular Model, of Automotive Type of Multimeter, it's just a matter of, keeping a Eye (more like an Eagle Eye...!!!...lol) out, for, an Automotive Type of Multimeter, that will suit Your needs, and, Wallet as well....................................................Good Luck, with "Finding", an Automotive Type of Multimeter, that will get the Job Done................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
the added stuff is good mate. most allready know the little things, but throwing out the little pointers can help
+Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle ....Greetings Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle....Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...................There's even more, beyond, just Ohm/Resistance testing an Ignition Coil, as well...................There can be the odd time, where an Ignition Coil Checks-out Ok, Ohms-wise, but, once it/the Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, it might not work so good....................Also, if the Wrong Ignition Coil gets installed, its Specifications, might not be Correct, for that particular Ignition System, and, might result, in having a Weak Spark, or maybe even having, some of the Ignition Components get Damaged......................If an Ignition Coil gets Charged-Up, with too many Amps of electricity, for too many Milli-Seconds (One Milli-Second = One Thousandths of a Second, time-wise), on its Primary side, during its, shall we say, Charge-Up Cycle, then, that in-itself, has the potential, to probably Fry the Ignition Coil Windings, and, a Burned-Out Ignition Coil, it will usually be....................Once a Person, kinda understands, how, a good ole "Points and Condenser" type of Distributor...Ignition System (up, till about 1974 there-abouts) operates/functions, oh, and, there was "No Computer" anywhere in sight, back in those days, then, as I've found (for myself, that is), is that, by having a basic understanding, as to, how the older Points & Condenser (distributor) Ignition System actually works, I find it, so much easier, to kinda comprehend, as to how, a Computer Controlled Ignition System operates, along with, what the Roles are, for all of the Sensors and Actuators, that go along with it (I hope...lol).....................So then, there You have it, well, for now that is, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
skip to 14:30 for the actual test.
Thank you...Sir great video! Helped a lot in troubleshooting Coil - 1992 Ford T-Bird SC
Ravi Diasabeygunawardena Greetings Ravi Diasabeygunawardena....You are welcome, and, thanks kindly, for Your Great comment too!..........................................It's good to hear, that, You were able to use some of the Information, in this RUclips Video of mine, that was able to help You out, somewhat................................................By Testing, just about any Ignition Coil, with an Ohm Meter/Multi-meter, is, as I see it, just a "Preliminary" (aka, as in an Initial, and, Not-so-Complete) Test, so to speak, as, at times, an Ignition Coil, may appear to be Faulty, and Not be Working, all that well, or, even, Not at all, and could be either, the Ignition Coil Itself, and/or, could also be, any of the Related Wiring or Electrical Circuitry, that is part and parcel, of the Ignition System, as a Whole (aka, Total, of "All" Ignition System "Related" Parts and Pieces)........................................................Sometimes, an Ignition Coil, can become, Not Working very good, or, might even stop working, maybe even causing some..."Ignition Related"..."Miss-Firing" as well, when it Heats Up, and, Breaks Down, under a Loaded (aka, perhaps, a High Demand of its Output) Operating Condition......................................................So then, let's assume that, the Ignition Coil is in "100% (One Hundred Per-Cent) Working Order", then, any, and..."All Other"..."Ignition System Related"..."Components"..."Circuitry"..."Switches"..."Wiring"...etc., have to be in "100%"..."Working Order"..as well, or, we just might end up with...a Car or Truck, that, might..."Not Start"..."Have a Difficult Time Starting, either Hot or Cold, or, maybe Both"..."Start to Miss-Fire" (Ignition System-wise), and, from what I have seen over the years, I've come to the Point, and, train of thought, that..."I Assume Nothing"...and..."Never Rule Anything Out"...because, even when I thought, that I've seen "Everything"...there are, at times, a..."Thing or Two"...that have..."Shown Up"...that was "Totally Unexpected", and from my perspective..."Un-Thought-of"...as well..."Yikes"..!!!...lol......................................................Here's a pretty good "One", that happened to "Me", quite a few Years ago......................................................When the Engine (350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8, with an Oil Filled ignition coil, that was controlled by, a points & condenser distributor) was "Cold", I Start it up, and Drive away...and...all seems to be alright...then...oh, about 1/2 Mile from Home, the Engine just "Quits, and Stops Running"...!!!...................................................I manage to coast it over to the side of the Road, and park the Car.....................................................I try to Re-Start the Engine...No Luck.....................................................I then wait, oh, about 5 to 10 Minutes, and then, try to Re-Start the Engine...and..."It"..."Starts Right Up", and I Drive away, and the Engine Runs, as if...there "Never Was a Problem" at All..!!!............................................During some Other times, the Engine would Run very good, for hours even...................................................Then, one time, I recall, just Cruising along, then, the Engine, just goes..."Silent"...for a few Seconds...and then..."It"...Starts Running "Again", as though "It" Never went "Silent" at all, in the first place...!!!.........................................I was Convinced, that, it was something to do with the "Fuel System", because, usually, if a person were to Turn Off the Ignition, and seeing how this Chevy V-8 Engine had a Carburetor on It, had me thinkin', that, once the Ignition started "Sparking" again (after Not Sparking, for those Few Seconds), I was also thinkin', that, there should have been some "Raw" (Un-Burned) Air/Fuel Mixture, as supplied by the Carburetor, when the Ignition System, was in the "Off", as in, "Not Operating" at that particular point in time, and, once the Ignition System Began "Sparking Again", I was quite sure, that, the Engine should have had, a nice Big "Back-Fire",Through the Exhaust System, due to, what I thought, would be the Result, of all of that Raw/Un-Burned Gasoline/Air Mixture, getting "Zapped", with that..."Working Again"...and shall I say, at times..."Intermittent"...Ignition System, that I had back then...!!!...................................................Now then, can You "Guess", what was "Causing" all of this "Ghost-Like-Engine-Operation"...???....................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, when I Finally, got to the point, of, Removing the "High Tension Lead/Wire" (just a fancy name for the spark plug-like wire/lead) that "Connects" the (oil filled type) "Ignition Coil's Output Tower Connection/Terminal"....to the..."Center Tower Connection/Terminal, of the Distributor Cap", here's what I "Found" (aka, Discovered).......................................When I looked Down, Inside the High Tension..Lead/Wire's, rubber-like Boot...to look at, the Wire/Lead End Terminal (made of Brass), that supposedly, "Is"..."Supposed to"...be..."Crimped/Connected" to the Lead/Wire's...Internal "Core Conductor"...what I saw, was, that, the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core had..."Arced Away" (aka, Electrically "ERODED") away, from the Brass "Terminal", leaving a "Big Gap", between the Lead/Wire's "Conductive Core", and the "Brass End Terminal", there-for, as I see it, that Very High Ignition Coil's Voltage, was Forced to Jump that "Big Gap", that "Should Not" have been there in the first place...!!!.............................................Yes, indeed, it was rather difficult, to actually Imagine, that, that Quite Large Gap, between the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core, and the Brass End Terminal, could Actually "Cause", that, shall I say..."Very Weird"..."Sometimes Intermittent"...Chevy V-8 Engine..."Behavior"...that I Actually Experienced...!!!......................................................Once I Replaced that "Faulty" High Tension Lead/Wire, that went Between the (oil filled) Ignition Coil, and the Distributor Cap, it was like, I just Installed...an, as New, just broken in, Rebuilt Engine, that, Ran "Super-Duper"..."Yipee"...!!!...lol..............................................So, as You can now see, just when "I" think, that I've "Seen-It-All".."I"..."Have-Not", and that's the way..."The Old Ball Bounces"...weather "I' like it, or not...!!!....lol..........................................Thanks again, for watching, my Friend.................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Nice video bro, well done :)
Greetings...Kosta Dinos………….Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….I've learned even more stuff about automotive ignition coils, since I made this one, and, maybe, sometime in the future, I might do, a, shall we say, updated video, perhaps, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
that's terrific, looking forward to watching it!
very good info thank you
Greetings...Aaron Johnson..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching............Although, an Ignition Coil, will Ohms/Resistance Test Ok, there can be times, where, they can start to act strangely, or, might even quit working, once they get up to operating temperature, or maybe, even hotter..............Maybe, do an internet search, for an (ignition coil) "Spark Tester" (some are even adjustable), cuz, by having a Very LARGE Gap, between the two electrodes, on the Spark Tester, then, that will, shall we say, "Stress Test", that particular Ignition Coil, pretty much meaning, that, the Ignition Coil's...Secondary High Voltage...will try to go...High Enough...and be able to, shall we say..."Jump/Spark, Between that LARGE Gap"...that's between the Spark Tester's, two electrodes..............That LARGE Gap/Distance, between the Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, will usually require, that, a certain amount of "Kilo-Volts" (as in, Thousands of Volts), that, that particular "Gap Size" requires, (in open air/atmosphere), as a minimum, for the ignition coil to produce, in order, to be able to, make the Jump, or, probably, No-Spark, will be seen at all..............Also, that "LARGE Gap", has to be the "Correct" Gap/Distance, for the "Exact" Ignition Coil, that is being (stress) Tested, at that particular time, as, we really don't want to "stress test" any ignition coil, up to the point of..."Infinity and Beyond"...!!! (so to speak), cuz, if that were to happen, then, that particular Ignition Coil, might get Damaged...not good at all.............Let's say, that the High Tension Lead/Wire was Not Connected to the Secondary, High Voltage Tower/Terminal, of an Ignition Coil, like the one that's being shown in this Video of mine, while it was Operating, then, its Secondary High Voltage, would probably try to get High enough, to make the "Jump", to, a too Far away ground source, and, if left in this condition long enough, then, that poor ole Ignition Coil, would probably Over-Heat itself, and go Kaput/Fry itself, so, make sure that, All of the spark plug "Wires", are in Good Condition, and, are All Connected properly, so the Ignition Coil will be Happy, and will also, last a very long time, hopefully, that is, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi! Thanks for the video. Question...where can I get the resistance specs for a coil out of a 1967 Ford Mustang 289. It's no where to be found in my Chilton book. Thank you,
Ryan Jones Greetings Ryan Jones....Thanks for watching, now, onto, Your Mustang's, Ignition Coil..."Specifications" (Ohms/Resistance)..............................I looked around, quite a bit, on the good ole Internet, trying to find, that/those, oh so elusive, Ohms/Specifications, for Your Stang's Ignition Coil, and, after doing so, I came to the conclusion, that I'd probably have a much better chance, at..."Winning the Lottery"...then stumbling onto Your particular, Ignition Coil...Ohms/Specifications...!!!...lol...but, fear not, as my Chrystal Ball, hasn't failed me yet...!!!...............................I did a "Cross-Reference", of Your "Factory/Stock" Ignition Coil, and, low and behold, it appears that, Your 289's, "Stock/Factory"...Ignition Coil, was used on quite a few, of the Other, Brands/Manufacturers "Engines" as well...!!! (how about that...lol)..............................I did see how-ever, a few Different "Ohms Ranges, for an Ignition Coil, such as Yours..................................Without any Wiring Connected, to the Ignition Coil, here's what I would be looking for..................For the "Primary" Measurement...1 to 2 Ohms...should be alright........and..........for the "Secondary" Measurement, there was quite a Range, seeing as how, each Manufacturer, seemed to have, Their Own Way of Doing Things...and...I saw, that these Ranges were, With-in, anywhere from...6,000...to...15,000...Ohms.............If You really want to find the "Exact Ohms Specifications", for Your Ignition Coil, You might have some luck, finding those Ohms-Specifications, on one, or perhaps more, of the Many..."Ford Mustang"...or...on any Ford Car or Truck..."Websites"...that, will usually have, some very helpful/knowledgeable Folks, on their (website) "Forums", where You can Ask "Them", if they have the Ohms/Specs, for Your "Exact" Ignition Coil"...???..............................I have found that, an actual "Official, Factory Chassis Service Manual", usually had, the "Ohms Specifications", for Ignition Coils, as well as, something like the "Ballast Resistor"..."Ohms Specification", that usually is, part of the Ignition Circuit, if it happens to be, the good ole "Points and Condenser", type of Distributor, that is...............................One or more People, on those Website "Forums", just might have, a..."Factory/Ford...Chassis Service Manual"...for a..."1967 Mustang"...and...He/She, might just have, Your particular...Ignition Coil's..."Ohms Specifications"...that, hopefully, "They" will Share with You (keeping fingers crossed)...................................................Even though, an Ignition Coil "Tests OK"...Ohms/Resistance-wise...that, my Friend, might not, Tell the Whole Story, as, sometimes, quite Rarely, when an Ignition Coil, reaches Operating Temperature (or Hotter), that hypothetical, Ignition Coil, can "Act-Up", as in, Not Work, all that good, or maybe Intermittently, or in a worst case scenario....Not at All...!!!....Yikes...!!!...............Also..."Everything"...that is Part of the Ignition System's "Circuit", that be-in, All Wiring, and Components/Parts as well, have to be in, Very Good/almost like New Condition, so, Your Mustang's...289 V-8, is able to give You Great Performance, and, if You go Easy on the Gas Pedal, some pretty good, Gas Mileage as well............................If Your 289, still has that good ole "Points & Condenser", style/type of Distributor in/on it, then, the "Points, and the Condenser", must be in Good Shape, as well as, have the "Points...Gap/Dwell"...Adjusted/Set-to..."Specifications", and, after doing that, Your "Initial Ignition Timing" (on the Engine's Timing Tab/Indicator), has to be..."Checked, and (most likely), Set/Re-Set"...to..."Specifications"...So Your 289, doesn't get Lazy, or Damaged...!!!.........................If You need any help or advice, just let me know, about Your 1967 Mustang, and also, if it has any Modifications..............Well.......Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Very clear demonstration good
Great presentation
Greetings...Hugh Griffith..................Thanks for Your nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too.................Although an Ignition Coil, was able to Pass the Ohms (resistance) Test, with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, then, that, in itself, isn't a Guarantee, that, that particular Ignition Coil will be working 100%, when asked to do so................Sometimes, when an Ignition Coil (that tested good, for ohms/resistance, at, about room temperature, there-abouts), seems to be alright, might, while in operation, and reaches Operating Temperature (or maybe hotter?), then, it's possible (rarely, that is), that, this particular (faulty, when warm) Ignition Coil, might start to act, kinda, strange/weird, and might be the cause, of some Ignition system Misfiring, and maybe, stop working all-together, perhaps...................Just keep in mind, that, all it takes, is, one small, "Faulty/not so good", Wiring Connection (as in, oxidation, corrosion, and, I've even seen green stuff too...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol), on the Primary/Low Voltage side, of an Ignition System/Circuit...............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...everything, from having a good Battery...a good Charging System...all Ignition System related Wiring, being in good condition, as well as, being moisture free, while also having, everything on the Secondary/High Voltage side, being in great shape as well, are pretty much, a must, to keep Your Engine running, as good as it should be, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
many thanks for the explanation, good for tech and non tech people
I liked the dollars example, I use the same to teach maths, your brain really wakes up
when you speak about money ...
+silberkondorin ....Greetings silberkondorin....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...just like that good ole Sayin', that goes something like this..."Money Talks...and...Bull-**** Walks"...!!!...lol......................Even though, an Ignition Coil, might "Check-out Ok", while do-in the Ohms-Testing, there are times, where, a, shall we say, Not-so-Good (Faulty) Ignition Coil, just might, start to "Act-Up", and make for, an Engine, that could very well, "Not Idle, and/or, Not-Run-So-Good", and if really Bad, then, even a Passenger, in that particular Vehicle, would probably notice it......................Well, using Money, for the Math...Comparison/Visualization...is one thing, but now, I'm getting Really Hungry, so Lettuce now talk about Food, shall we................I remember, way back in High School, and the word Desert, or was it Dessert, came-up, and, here's what our English Teacher, had to tell Us (the Students), that was a Really "Simple Way", to "Remember", which was which........................No-Sir-ee-Bob...keep Your Money-in-Ur-Pocket...Purse...or what-ever...cuz...now, We're talkin' "Food"...Remember...???...lol....so now...here I goes..."Desert", only has One "S" in it, where-as "Dessert" has Two of those "S" letters in it, and, Our English Teacher, was Sayin', just Remember..."Strawberry Shortcake"...cuz...that's the..."Dessert"...Word, that has those Two "S" letters in it, and besides, Who in Their right Mind, would want to Eat a "Desert" anywayz...!!!...(Damn Cactus Needles...!!!)...lol........................So, there You have it, and............till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one (as in, a nice, BIG Piece of "Strawberry Shortcake"...perhaps...???)...
So if I'm over spec. Is that going to cause a weak spark? My range in the FSM is .2-.3 ohm. My reading is .34ohm ( this is for a 94xr250l)
Greetings Stephany Rivera....Any vehicle that I have worked on has always "Cranked" (starter motor turning engine over), with the exception of 2 things, not including some problems....One is, with an automatic transmission having a "Neutral Safety Switch"....That is that the car won't crank unless it's in Neutral or Park (on the shift indicator), and also, some standard transmission vehicles having a safety switch actuated by the clutch pedal being pushed to floor-board....(con't)
nice job, thanks much! any ideas what would make a ballest risistor .4 ohms smoke after start up?
greg DeStephano Greetings greg DeStephano....Thanks for watching, and for, Your nice comment, and question as well............................Ah yes, the good ole Ballast Resistor, type of ignition system............................As far as my experience with Ballast Resistor's is concerned, it was the "Ceramic/White, Porcelain-looking, Block Type" (actually, it was a Dodge, Dual Ballast Resistor), but, as for the Side, that was wired to the ignition coil only, is concerned, it would pretty much equal, what the Single type of ceramic-looking, ballast resistor, was responsible-for, and did, job-wise.....................Oh, and in case I forget, GMC/General Motors/Chevy/Pontiac/Oldsmobile/etc., used, up until, about 1974, a Ballast Resistor, in the form of, a..."Special" Resistance "Wire", in some cases...................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, as far as I've experienced, with that particular, Ceramic type of (dual) Ballast Resistor, once the Engine was running for a while..."it"..."Did"...get Quite..."HOT"...as in..."HOT"...enough, to, give Your...Finger, a rather Nasty..."Burn"...if You were to actually touch it...!!!..............................Did there happen to be any..."Oil or Grease"...on that..."Smokin' Ballast Resistor"...of Yours, at all...???...as, if so, that just might be the reason for that "Ballast Resistor of Yours..."Smokin'...in a...No Smoking Allowed Zone"...!!!...lol...................................If Your Ballast Resistor is "Mounted" on a "Painted" Surface, did You notice any "Paint Discoloration" or "Burn-like" pattern, in near proximity, to Your Ballast Resistor at all...???...............................How about, the actual "Smell", of Your "Smokin' Ballast Resistor", as that, can, at times, be quite the clue, as to what it just might be, just sayin' now..............................Here's pretty much how "They" work...........................When the Ignition Key is in the "Start Position", while "Cranking" the Engine, to get it Started (with the Starter Motor), the Ballast Resistor, is usually "By-Passed" and "Not Used", and there is usually a "Separate Wire", that provides "Full Battery Voltage" to the Ignition Coil, using a Separate Wiring Circuit, but, that Full Battery Voltage will usually "Drop", due to the fairly "High Demand, Placed on the Battery", by the Starter Motor, while in Operation...........................Once the Engine Fires-Up, and keeps Running, the "Ignition Key/Switch", then goes into the (engine) "Run/Running Position", and that's when, the Electrical Wiring Circuit, that has the "Ballast Resistor" in it, takes over, and when it does, the "Ballast Resistor" will usually "Reduce the Voltage", that goes to the (usually Oil Filled type) of "Ignition Coil"...so the..."Ignition Coil..."Does Not"..."Burn Up & Self Destruct"...!!!...cuz...that's the way, that they were Engineered/Designed, as far as I know.......................The "Most Important" Part here is...Always Make Sure"...that..."Each and Every Part/Component"...of the (engine's)..."Ignition System"...is..."Exactly as Specified"...as a..."Complete System/Group"...so that..."All of the Components/Parts"..."Work in Harmony/Properly"...or, if any, or all, of the (engine's)..."Ignition System's, Parts and Pieces"...happen to get..."Randomly Selected"...and..."Not as Specified"...there, as I see it, could very well be, a quite Strong Possibility, that, the Ignition System in question, might not work so well, or, might even have a component/part or two, get damaged, and, who knows, maybe even "Start a Fire", and I sure hope not................................I actually "Re & Re'd" (Removed and Replaced), that "Dual Ballast Resistor", that I was talkin' about earlier, and "No-Sir-ee-Bob", Not because it wasn't working, as it should, but, (while it was COLD), I removed the wiring connectors, and then, removed that there "Dual Ballast Resistor", from where it was Mounted, on the Engine Compartment's "Fire-Wall", and low and behold, when I..."Flipped"..."it"....around...to have a "Look-See", at the Back-side of "it", there I saw, some "Missing Ceramic-like Material", that was supposedly, supposed to..."Imbed/Surround", the Actual "Resistor-Element-Thing-ee", that was Installed in, what looked to be, a "Cavity" (on the back-side, of the ceramic looking/Ballast resistor Block), if You will......................................In other words, to me, it appeared that, the way that the Main Body, of the Ceramic/Dual/Ballast Resistor, that I had, at the time, was probably Cast/Molded, with "2 Cavities", where, each of the "2" fairly long "Resistors" were placed into, then, it appeared that, once those "2" Resistors were "Snug-as-ah-Bug-in-ah-Rug" (aka, Installed...lol), into, Their respective "Cavities", then, as far as I know, and, as observed by Yours-Truly, it appeared that, some, in..."Liquid Form, Ceramic-like Goop"...was..."Poured Into"...those..."2 Cavities"...to..."Fill-Em-Up"...about, equal-to, the Surface , of the Back-side of that good ole Dual Ballast Resistor's, Block/Body, thus "En-Tomb-ing/Embedding", those "2 Resistor Elements"...once, that there..."Liquid, Ceramic-looking-like Goop..."Solidified"...!!!...........................So then..."Make Sure"...that..."ALL"...of Your Ignition System's Parts and Pieces"..are, as, the Vehicle's Factory/Manufacturer, or Aftermarket Company..."Specifies"...for..."Every Component/Part, in the..."Entire Ignition System"...as a..."Total Package"...in order to have the "Ignition System, work Properly"...and..."Not cause Trouble"...or..."Destroy Itself"...part-wise, that is.............................So then, there You have it, for the time being................................If You care to, You can let me know, how it's going.......................Till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Rocky,
Pretty clear instruction here, thanks.
A question for you: I have a 77, 16hp Onan twin with an oil filled double coil. It has two secondary outputs (two plug~wire output), what's known as a "wasted spark" system. So both plugs get spark at the same time. The coil has lost its oil. They're not made anymore, so, would it be possible to split the wire lead to the primary and attach them to two single coils. If I did this would there be potential for harm to the points and or condenser.
Thanks again.
searchlight22 Greetings searchlight22....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well................................................Have You done, all that You can, in "Searching" the "Internet" for Your Particular "Ignition Coil"...???............................................................"E-Bay", is a very good place to start, and, try "Different" Search "Words, and Phrases/Sentences", that You "Type" in the "Search-Bar/Field", as by doing so, will usually, give You, quite a few, "Different Search Results"....................................................You had mentioned, that You had, a "77" (the Year "1977"...???)...Onan 16 HP Twin (Twin or 2 Cylinders...???)...Engine, and..."What Kind of Vehicle...Boat, or even Gen-Set", is Your "Onan Engine"..."Installed In", as, I haven't a Clue, as to what I'm up against, and, the "More" that You are able to Tell me, the "More", that I should be able, to help You out......................................................."If" it happens to turn out, that, there is no way, that You are able to "Locate" the "Exact/Identical"..."Ignition Coil"...that Your Onan came Equipped with..."Originally" (that Applies only, "If" Someone Did Not "Modify" anything, that is), then, it "Is"..."Possible"...to...Create a "Dual, Single Ignition Coil"..."Wasted Spark"..."Ignition System".........................................................In order to do so, the "Newly Designed"..."Wasted Spark"..."Ignition System"...with the..."Two New Individual Oil Filled Ignition Coils"...would have to be..."Planned and Well thought out"...and...the "New Entire Ignition System"...has to be..."Electrically Balanced"...and...has to "Pass", the "Importance of Safety", which happens to be the "Top Priority"...and, at the..."Top of the List"...!!!............................................."All"..."Components"...have to be..."Matched" to the..."New"..."Total Electrical Circuit"...of the..."Newly Developed"...Wasted Spark, Ignition System"...!!!.........................................................That "Includes"...the "Ignition System's..."Supply Voltage"...the "Type of Spark Plugs, and, the "Gap", that they are Set at"...the "Rating and Resistance in Ohm's, that the 2 New Ignition Coils Specifications are"...the "Micro-Farad Rating of the Condenser/Capacitor"...and "Very Important"..is, the Ignition System's Electrical Circuit "Wiring Gauge"..along with the "Approved"...Ignition System's..."Fuse or Circuit Breaker"...so, a "Fire Does Not Start to Happen"...!!!...............................................Once..."Everything is Approved and 100% SAFE"...one of the New Wasted Spark Ignition System's, shall we say..."Balancing Act"...happens to be that, of the..."Micro-Farad Rating"...of the..."Condenser/Capacitor"....as, "It's Responsible"...for the..."Immediate Collapse"...of the Ignition Coils (remember, we now have "2" Ignition Coils) "Magnetic Field/s"...in order to have the Ignition System "Work Properly"...!!!...................................................Think of the Condenser/Capacitor, as an...Electrical "Sponge, that Absorbs, and Stores Electricity"......................................................If the "Micro-Farad Rating of the Condenser/Capacitor" is..."Wrong"...or it..."Fails"...it usually "Shows Up" on the "Ignition Points", and what You will usually "See", is, the "Ignition Points..."Showing"...some "Easily Seen"..."Pitting" (Electrical Erosion, due to Electrical Arcing)...!!!.....................................................So then, for now, those are just some, of my..."Generic"...thoughts, on, what has to be taken into Consideration, before a person..."Implements"...such an Engineering, shall we say..."Project"......................................................Let me "Know", what Your "Onan" is "Powering", so, I don't have to go, on a..."Wild-Goose-Chase"...lol..........................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Hi Rocky,
So very kind of you to reply this quickly and in such detail as well. Thank You.
Some background; We acquired a 1977 Massey Ferguson 1655 garden tractor a year ago and it's still a "work in progress". There is a considerable difference in a Lawn Tractor and a Garden Tractor. Our machine weighs close to 450Kg and has about 800 Ft/Lbs of torque, it has hydraulics in the front, middle and rear for various attachments. Included in the sale was a large bottom plow and a 16 disk harrow. I'm thinking about buying a front end loader attachment. This is not a fancy lawn mower. No manufacturer makes anything like this these days. Closest tractor to match now would be a B series Kobuta, that, in it's most basic form (that is to say; useless), would cost about 12 grand. We paid less than $ 1,000 with the attachments.
The 16hp gas engine is a horizontally opposed twin cylinder Onan. Popular opinion says it is among the best small engines ever built. The tractor has many deficiencies but is essentially whole. Our primary use is working a 5,000 Sq/ft veg. garden with the plow and harrow, but we also have a 42" snowblower that is being modified to work with our machine.
We don't want to spend a lot of cash to get this rig rehabilitated until it's clear it is worth the investment and it might not be. The OEM coil went out of production years ago. I have seen them on E-Bay, but only used offerings. Not that keen on paying for what may be "sketchy" material. Just because the resistance reading from a meter is good does not mean the coil will still work when it reaches the high temps involved when an engine runs for a prolonged period. Therefore, I want to determine if it is in fact the coil that is preventing the old girl from starting at the moment. The tractor was running and did so until last fall.
I sourced a set of points with condenser, replaced the plugs and worked on the carb. (float is in need of replacement with a metal version), Plug wires also have to be replaced. I replaced all of the original wiring with # 10 TEW tinned cable so the amperage load is not an issue. A lot of the OEM wire was # 16, or less.
"Lost Spark" (system), is a romantic term for " lets make the engine cheaper". It refers to the fact that the engine ignition does not have a distributer. The double coil output goes to both plugs everytime the points cycle. As one of the pistons is in the exhaust position, the spark to that cylinder is "wasted".
My hope is that using two single coils won't make any difference. What I need to know most is if splitting the lead to the primary side will lower the amperage enough to affect the secondary of two separate coils. By the way, I have reversed the leads on the current coil so that the 12 V positive goes to the negative post on the coil. I've read that in fact, current prefers to flow from the negative to the positive and additionally, from a "cold" to hot surface. Worked well until the coil failed. I'm fairly certain that all of the oil has leaked from my coil.
Using two separate coils would be an experiment only. I wish to confirm the coil is the issue. If the engine starts, I'll search for the OEM coil and resume the rest of the refurbishment on the tractor.
Thanks again Rocky
searchlight22 Greetings searchlight22....You're welcome, for any information, that I may have provided, and hopefully, it has, or will help You out, to some extent, somewhat...........................................................Well, I surfed the good ole Internet, and had a "Look-See", at some Pictures and such, as it pertains, to Your Massey Ferguson (spelling?) 1977...1655...Garden Tractor...equipped with the 16 HP Onan Engine, and, from what I saw, and gave considerable thought to also, which also includes, some of what You were telling me about, as well, had me thinkin' the following........................................Please..."Don't"..."Use"..."Any", of the Following "Information"...or..."Specifications"...that I post in this Reply/Comment...and..."Only"..."Use and Apply"...the "Servicing Methods and Specifications"...that the..."Manufacturer"...of Your 1655-Garden Tractor..."Approves"...!!!...................................................All-Righty then, "Lettuce" (intentional Miss-Spelling!...lol) begin.................................................I got to thinkin', about, how You were saying, that, Your Original Ignition Coil got "Fried" (aka, became Non-Functional), when You might have "Reversed" the "Polarity" of the "Power Supply" and "Ground/Earth"...Connections...to the Ignition Coil's "Primary Terminals"...???.........................................That in itself (Reversing the...+ Positive...and the...- Negative...Supply and Ground Wires)...(to the Ignition Coil...???)..."Is Not"...something that I would Do, as, I figure, that the..."Engineers/Designers"...of just about Any Engine's..."Ignition System"...and its...Related "Component Parts"...happened to be, Very...Carefully..."Designed" and "Tested"...with the..."Circuitry"...that the "Manufacturer" decided upon.......................................................It appears, that, the...."Internal Structure/Design"...of Your..."Dual Output"...Ignition Coil...has..."Only"...a..."Single Set of, Both, Primary and Secondary Coil Windings"...much like that, of a Regular/Typical..."Single Output"..."Oil Filled, Automotive"..."Ignition Coil"...!!! (and here I was thinkin', that I would be seeing "2" Individual Coils, side by side, Hiding Inside it...!!!).....................................If You still have that..."Original/Not Workin'/Any More"...Ignition Coil, still Kickin' around, have a Look-see at/on it, as it may be showing You, that it just Might be, a..."6-VOLT"...Ignition Coil"...!!!....................................................If that be the case, and, "12-VOLTS" was "Put-Through"..."IT"..."Without"..a..."RESISTOR" (I'm not sure, if "They", may have used that singular word terminology, as it has me thinkin'..."Ballast Resistor"...eh), that was Theoretically (and "Physically" as well), supposed to..."DROP" (aka, Reduce) that Nominal "12-VOLTS"..."DOWN"...to what-ever that there "6-VOLT"...Ignition Coil could "TOLERATE", without, having it Go..."POOF" (aka, another fun word, for once again, becoming Non-Functional any more), would, in My..."Guess-tim-eh-tion"...possibly be the cause, of the "Original Ignition Coil"..."Giving-Up-the-Ghost" (and yet, another Rendition, of, my take, on, becoming...Non-Functional any more!...lol)...........................................Polarity, You say...???............................................As I see it, and in its most Basic Form, the "Ignition Points" (aka, Breaker Points), are basically, just a "Switch"...that either..."Makes" or "Breaks" (aka, Connects or Opens)...the...Ignition System's..."Primary Coil's...(Negative Wire/Wiring)..."Electrical"..."Connection"...to..."GROUND" (aka, - or Negative, or even Minus, if You will)................................."Always"...Check, and Make Sure...No-matter...What, or Which Ignition Coil, that is to be Used, in "Any" Ignition System, is to Make Sure, to have the "Properly Specified and Rated"..."Ballast Resistor"...in the Ignition's Electrical "Circuit", that's usually Installed, and most that I've seen, in Vehicles, oh, up until, about 1974, are usually, in the + Positive Supply Wiring Circuit, Just "Before" the "Ignition Coil's"..."+ or Positive connection Terminal"......................................There are "Some"..Ignition Coils...that "Do Not Require", a "Ballast Resistor" in their particular Ignition System's "Electrical Circuit", so, just make sure, that the "Required"..."Components"...are..."Installed"..."Correctly"...as the..."Manufacturer"..."Recommends"...!!!...................Maybe, Your Onan Engine has the following...???.......................................I did see (Picture-wise, that is), a shall we say, or call it, an "Ignition Box", that supposedly..."Houses the Ignition/Breaker Points"..."Inside of It"...having the "Ignition/Breaker Points"..."Actuated" (aka, Opening and Closing), by a Round-Rod/Dowel-like..."Shaft"...that has me thinkin', that there is, perhaps, an..."Extra"..."Lobe-like-thing-ah-mah-bob"...on the..."Camshaft" (as, I think, that I recall seeing, what appeared to be "5" Camshaft Lobes, on, that there Camshaft!), and there are Only "4" Valves, in that there Onan Engine, that need to be "Activated", by that there "Bump-Stick"...!!!...(Bump-Stick, is a rather Fun-Word for Camshaft, I think...it's kinda self-explanitory, don't-cha-think?, and no, it's not me, that came up with that one!...lol)...............................................So then, that about does it, for this particular Installment, and, I hope it helps You out somewhat......................................Best of Luck, with "Restoring"...Your..."1655".........................................'Till next time...................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
With 12volts into 1.6 Ohms of the Primary winding, and a D C resistance of 10,500 Ohms in the secondary, do we have a reading of 78,750 Volts jumping between the spark plug gap approx?
( A coil can also break down under load ?)
Greetings anibalcarta....I haven't worked on your particular engine before....Seems to me that it should be a 4-Sroke-Cycle engine perhaps?...and, that each engine cylinder has its own ignition coil to fire the spark plug that is in that particular cylinder....Given that there is only one "Lobe" (Lube?) on the distributor (Timer) shaft that actuates the ignition points (one has to remember that most distributors shafts rotate at one half of the Crankshafts Revolutions Per Minute)....(con't)...
Hi what should be the primary voltage when it is running
I about went to sleep waiting on him to get to the point.
great video thanks, would my car just click one time if the coil is the problem?
Joe Williams Greetings Joe Williams....Thanks for watching, and for Your nice comment, and, question as well.............................Please, "Describe", the best You are able to, just..."What"...???...You mean, by..."Just Clicks"..."One Time"...???.....................The more that You are able to Tell me, the more that I will be able to Help You out, with, what-ever the Problems, happen to be, with Your Car.....................Please let me know, the following................Year...Make...Model...Engine...any Modifications...etc., and all of Your Car's Problems, as in, something like....Engine....Hard to Start...Miss-Fires...Doesn't Run so good....etc, and I will try to help You out, once I know, what Your particular Car, happens to be, and, the Problems that You are having with "it".............................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings CaptainOwnage01....The item under the ignition coil is my Drill Press Vise....The reason that I'm using it, is because the bottom of the ignition coil is not flat, and also, because I'm connecting the multimeter leads to the terminals on the ignition coil....The drill press vice holds it still and steady for the video....The drill press vise is really quite heavy, as it's made out of mostly cast iron....Take care, and have a good one.
As an instructor, folks...... students, dont have any desire to know the details. Just the "what is" portion.
I really dont understand that, but it is what it is. If you ask a question like this, on a public forum ( how to test an ignition coil) you'd get a very abbreviated answer, which isnt an answer at all. But which generates MORE questions.
I tester my coils today the exact same way and got results of 1.9 and 10.59 :-)
Greetings gpateluk73....Thanks for your comment, my Friend....With the Ohm's Readings that you posted in your comment, they appear to be in the Ballpark alright, as compared to what I have seen in the past, that is....If you really want some "Accuracy", as in, if you are really Within "Specifications" for Your Ignition Coil, maybe, try and see if you can find the Specifications for Your Ignition Coil, that way, you will "Know for Sure", that the Ohm Readings, actually Fall "Within Specifications" for that Ignition Coil of Yours....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Cob Choppergirl....I'm sorry that you feel that way....Take care
I have an old Case tractor with a points type ignition system. I no longer have fire at the plugs. Ai check the resistance at the coil and after adjusting for ohm meter error I read 3.3 to 3.4 ohms from the positive to negative side of the coil. I read 8130 ohms from the positive side to the secondary in the center of the coil. In your video you mention 1.1 to q.8 ohms. I am 2 to 3 times higher. In the secondary circuit you suggested 8000 to 12000 ohms. I am reading 8130 in the secondary. Is the coil good or bad in your opinion?
Greetings Ed McCann....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment/question as well....There are a number of things that I will mention, that, should at least, point You in the right direction, in order to "Restore" Your Case Tractor's "Ignition System", to Work once again, and, "Re-Light the Fire!" (aka, get Your Spark Plug/s "Sparking" again!)....Seeing as how You were getting "3.3" to "3.4" Ohm's showing on Your Ohm-Meters Display, has me thinkin', that, Your "Ignition Coil" might "Not Have" an "External Ballast Resistor" (aka, Ceramic type or like the General Motors "Resistance" Wire), that would usually be "Needed", if the "Primary Coil" (as measured with the Ohm-Meter's test leads, being connected to the +, as in Positive terminal, and the -, or Negative terminal, on the Ignition Coil) was Showing, usually "2" Ohm's or Less.
Or, in other words, Your Case Tractor's "Ignition Coil", might have that slightly "Higher" Primary Coil "Resistance", because, perhaps, Your Ignition System's "Circuit"..."Does Not" have that "Ballast Resistor" in the "Circuit", due to the "Resistance" Already being there, in the form of, having a slightly Larger "Primary Coil Resistance" (3.3 to 3.4 Ohm's, as compared to Less then Usually 2 Ohm's, that also needs the Ballast Resistor, in the "Circuit", to keep the Ignition Coil" from "Burning Up"...!!!).
Before I go too far, I really should mention, that, It's "Very Important", for You to Indicate "Exactly"...What "Year?", "Model?", "Engine?", "Modifications?" (if any), as, I have "No Idea", what-so-ever, as to, "Which" Ignition System that Your Old Case Tractor, is Actually "Equipped With"...???
There were quite a few "Different" Types of Ignition Systems, for, the Many Years, that the Case Tractors were Manufactured and Sold...
...It appears that, some Case Tractor "Electrical Systems" could have been "6" or "12" Volts, and, may have had either "Positive" or "Negative" Ground Electrical "System/Circuits" as well...!!!
Then, some had "Magneto" Ignition Systems, while others had a "Distributor" type of Ignition System, and with the "Older" (distributor type ignition system), Ignition "Points"...Triggered the Ignition Coil.
Even the Spark Plug Screw Thread "Outside Diameters" were Different Sizes!
If Your Old Case Tractor, "Does Have", what looks kinda like a 1960's, to about 1974-ish, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, American Motors, etc., Car or Truck "Points and Condenser Distributor", then, once the Distributor "Cap" is Removed, there is usually a "Condenser" (aka, Capacitor) Mounted to the Top part of the Distributor Housing (aka, Body), and, if that "Condenser" goes "Bad", the Engine usually won't Start or Run!
If Replacing the Condenser, it "Must" (Super Important!), have the "Correct Rating", that is Measured in "Micro-Farads" (I believe), that is "Designed/Engineered" for that "Exact" Distributor Model/Application...!!!
Some "Condenser's" might have the "Micro-Farad" Rating "Stamped" on the Outside of its Metal Canister, while others might not!
If, let's say for instance, that, the "Wrong" Condenser (aka, Micro-Farad "Rating") happened to get Installed, then, in the better case scenario, the "Ignition Points" would start "Eroding/Pitting" at way too Fast a Rate, and the Engine would probably start running rough, and perhaps, start to miss-fire as well...
...and...
...if the Micro-Farad "Rating", of that Condenser, "Wasn't" even in the "Ball-Park", I doubt that the Engine would run at all.
So then, as I see it, with the not-so-much Information, that I have to go on, has me thinkin', that, Your Ignition Coil should be OK, as, it appears that Your Ignition System "Might Not Have", an "External Ballast Resistor"...But, "Make Sure" that, You "Check", before making Any "Assumption's", which might cause Problems...!!!
Do an Internet Search, for an "Ignition System Tune Up Kit", for Your "Exact" Year and Model of Case Tractor, as that will usually be showing some Images/Pictures, of the Needed Parts, to do a "Tune Up" on Your Case Tractor's Engine.
Everything from Your Case Tractor's...Battery, Ignition Switch, Charging System, Wiring/Connections, Points and Condenser Condition/Adjustment, Spark Plug Gap, and Condition, etc., are "All" very Important "Items", that have to be in..."Tip-Top-Shape", as well as, "Adjusted to Specification's" or, Your Case Tractor "Engine", is not going to be...Very Happy at all...
The Ignition "Points" will start "Eroding/Wearing", whenever the Engine is Running.
Once the Ignition "Points" get "Worn Too Much", then, the Engine usually starts getting harder to Start, as well as, Does Not "Run" as good as it use to...
For the "Best" Air/Fuel "Combustion" (inside Your Engines Combustion Chamber/s), Your "Ignition System" Needs to be able to Provide a "Nice Big Jolt" (aka, Strong High Voltage) to the (must be properly "Gapped", and in very Good Condition) Spark Plug/s...or...Your Engine's...Horsepower, Torque, Efficiency (aka, Gasoline Consumption being Too Much!), and also, Your Engine's Driveability/Response, will be Suffering as well...
If You like, let me know, all that You can, about Your Case Tractor's Engine and Ignition System, Including, if it's a..."6" or "12" Volt Electrical System, as well as, if it has a "Positive" or "Negative" Ground System.
There are quite a few Case Tractor Websites that can be found on the Internet, if You go looking for them, and, most of them, should have Question and Answer Forums on them, and hopefully, someone has an Old Case Tractor, much like Yours.
I hope that, some of my Long-Windedness (above) is able to help You out...
Good Luck...
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
great video do not respond to negative comments the time you took was ok. and info easy to understand
Greetings Marcus Pinnock....I'm glad that this/my (Oil Filled) Ignition Coil Testing Video was able to help you out, and, Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and much Appreciated Comment as well, my Friend....Now, as for "Not Responding" to the Negative Comments, that I have received on some of my RUclips Videos so far, well, I Welcome, "Any, and All Comments", be it (them), Good, or, Not So-Good, and, even the Nasty-Ones, that, by the way, I Do find, quite Entertaining, and, if it happens to come to a "Battle of Wits" or "Minds", I will be more then "Willing" to "Engage" with these "Folks" (People), with my (Never Ending Supply) of My "Very-Playful-Dialogue/Vocabulary"....Is there Anyone out there wanting to play the Role of, "Lets-Get-Rocky", well, my Immediate Response to "Them" is..."Just Bring It!!!"...lol.
But, you know Marcus, I have, and do, for the most part, try to View Issues, or Problems from different Perspectives (as in, look at the Subject at hand, from different Angles), because, if you don't, you usually become "Self-Centered" ,and some-what "Arrogant".
I try my best, not to fall into Either of the Two (2) Categories, as stated in the last paragraph.
Now for the "Catch 22", or, in other words, kinda like "Dammed-if-You-Do, and, Dammed if You Don't".
By saying, what I just said, to me, just means to "Access-the-Situation" and, "Respond-in-a-Well-Meaning-Manner"....Confused?, Me Too!...lol
All-Righty then, Some Folks (People), and not very many at that, were Commenting on a few of my RUclips Videos, that they were "Way Too Long" (Time-Wise), and, I honestly, Do see Their Point.
I figure that, the People that "Were-in-a-Hurry" were probably People that had Already been through "Basic-Training", meaning that, they happened to Possess the "Basics" (you know, already know how to Use/Read a Meter/Multimeter) and, as it relates to the Needed "Knowledge" to proceed to the "Actual" (and in this case), Testing of an Oil Filled Ignition Coil with an Ohm/Multimeter.
So, in some Previous Posts, that I Commented on (Replied to), I made Two (2) basic Comments, and, those Two (2) Comments were, that, I would perhaps make, or, re-make, some Videos that will have a "Shorter" Running-Time (in, minutes and seconds, hopefully...lol), and the other Comment/Reply, was Informing the people that were "In-a-Hurry", to just "Advance" the (as they say, Too Long) Video, by, using the "Slider" (button?) at the bottom of the "Video Player" to "Advance" the Video to the Place where they can "View/Hear" the Information that they happen to be after.
Wowsers!...Sometimes, I feel like I'm "Trapped" in an "Old Saying", the one that kinda states, that..."You can Lead a Horse to Water, but, you Can't Make him Drink!!!"...lol.
The reason that I would make/re-make (possibly, that is) the "Shorter" (time-wise), and especially, the Videos that contained the "Fundamentals", that I, well, kinda Added in some of my Videos, to help-out (benefit) those People that are just Starting-Out, or, in other words, those People that have not had the Experience or Exposure to, the Items/Subjects that I try to Show and Explain in the Videos that I make, and, will be making in the Future, unless Circumstances dictate otherwise, that is, would probably make Life, much more Pleasant for those "So-Much-More-Advanced-Folks", that, happen to be, in such a "Great HURRY!!!"...lol.
So, "Im-ah-Lis-en-in", and perhaps, sometime in the Future (down the Road), I will be making some (no Promises now!...lol), so called, "Shorter" (time-wise) "Vid-Ay-Oh's" (aka, Videos, get it?...lol).
So, in closing, I would like to just say..."If You Can't Be Good, Be As Good As You Can!"...
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thank you for this video.
+Zero Niner (Zero1niner) ....Greetings Zero Niner (Zero1niner)....You are Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.........................Although an Ignition Coil might Test Good Ohms-wise, there can be times, where, a questionable or Faulty Ignition Coil, might act-up, and not work so well, perhaps intermittently, or maybe not at all, once that particular Ignition Coil Warms up to Operating Temperature or maybe even Hotter............It's very important for a Vehicle's Ignition System, to have everything, as in, a Good Battery...a Good Charging System...and also, all Wiring and Connections, and any Switches or Component Parts, in that particular Ignition System, be in very Good Condition and Clean, and if need be, Adjusted to the Vehicle Manufacturer's Specifications, so the Vehicle will be able to have Good Performance, and, if You go easy on the Gas Pedal, some fairly decent Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age it will be............So then........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Loaded with minutia, but an informative video.
Thank you!
Greetings...TigerIronClock..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........If, and when-ever, installing a new ignition coil, make sure that, it is the "Exact/Correct" ignition coil, for that "Exact" ignition system circuit, or, Ya might end up having, a not so impressive spark, between the spark plug's electrodes (misfire?), or maybe, an ignition coil that becomes Over-Heated and quits workin' all-together, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Excellent ,thank you very much
Greetings...nike reebok...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too.........There sure is a lot of science involved, when it comes to, something like an automotive type of ignition system, that's for sure, and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you.
...please note, that when the contact "Points" are closed (inside the distributor), the, usually less then 12 Volts (because of a Ballast resistor reduces the voltage, so the ignition coil doesn't burn up), charges up the primary coil (inside the coils metal canister), until the ignition points are opened, when the Lobe on the distributor shaft opens it....The Lobe on the distributor shaft is "Timed", so the ignition points open, when one of the spark Plugs need to be fired....(con't)...
if it would be bad would it produce a spark at all
very good informative video thanks
Greetings MrBoogty....You are welcome....Thanks for watching...and...Thanks for Your very Appreciated comment, my Friend....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Excellent
Thanks for the video. It may have been mentioned in the comments, but for accuracy's sake, you should have checked the resistance through the nail by itself prior to testing.
Greetings SCScott2002....You are welcome, for thanking me for this Ignition Coil Testing video of mine, and, thank You, for watching it as well....Now then, for your concern, about the "Accuracy" of my Ohm/Multimeter's "Ohms-Reading/Display" that has the...2 1/4" (two and one quarter inch) long "Common Nail", that happens to be just under 1/8" (one eighth of an inch) in diameter in the "Test Lead Circuit"...(now I'm running downstairs, to "Fetch" that 2 1/4 Inch common nail, and once I grabbed it, I Re-Shined the nail with some sandpaper, so that there wouldn't be any Oxidation on it, that might just cause an unwanted Resistance on the Nails connection points, where, both, one Polarity (either black or red) Alligator Clips gets attached to, and the other end of that there common nail makes contact with the other (polarity) Alligator Clip, and in this case, to only "Check" the "Calibration" of both, the Multimeter/Ohm Meter, and the Test Leads, "With" the common nail in the circuit, and "Without" the common nail in the Test Lead "Only" Circuit.
"Results are Now In!!!"...
...The "Results", well, actually the "Result" was...
...No "Difference" what-so-ever...
..."With" that there 2 1/4" common nail, having one color (red or black) on one end of that there common nail, and the "Other" colored alligator clip on the Other end of said common nail, the "Ohm's" reading (on the lowest resolution, or scale, of 200 Ohm's on my yellow multi-meter) Displayed ".3-Ohm's"...and...the Display was showing the same ".3-Ohm's" reading "Without" having the 2 1/4" long common nail in test leads Circuit.
So then, I even went a step further, on Testing my yellow multi-meters "Calibration" for the Ohm's "Zero" Accuracy...
I grabbed a piece of Copper Wire, oh, almost about 1/16" (one sixteenth of an inch) in diameter, and about 2" (two inches) long, and made it all Shine-ee with a piece of sandpaper, so's the Oxidation would-not cause any electrical Resistance, when, I was using it, in the following manner...
...I then bent that there piece of copper wire into a Horse-Shoe Shape (aka, the letter U)...Gee, We all wounder what this guy is up to...
...read on, and I will tell All of You...
...I then removed the Test leads from my yellow multi-meter...
...then, I "Jumpered" (exciting word for connecting the 2 Test Lead connection points on the yellow multi-meter, that the 2 test leads attach to) with, that there "U" shaped piece of copper wire, in order to actually "See", just how..Far Out (but don't add the "Man" to those 2 words like the guys from Cheech and Chong did!...lol) my yellow multi-meter's "Zero-Calibration" actually is...
...and here, all this time, I thought that, my yellow multi-meter was reading ".3-Ohm's", when it should be Displaying "0-Ohm's", without the test leads connected, and by having the 2 test lead connection points Jumpered with that there "U" shaped copper wire...
...Wowsers!...when I used the copper "Jumper" wire, to check, just what my yellow multi-meter's "Zero-Calibration" might just be...
...the multi-meter's "Display" was Displaying ".2-Ohm's" !!!
...so, now it looks like, the 2 test leads (each one is about 4 feet long), thus makes them about 8 feet long, when connected in "Series" (aka, end to end), and that my Friends, has me thinking that those 2 test leads "Total" a "Resistance of ".1 Ohm"...
...still, I have to "Account" for ".3-Ohm's", with my Test Leads connected to my yellow multi-meter (with or without my nice shiny 2 1/4" common nail), especially, when You, or I, are using the "Low" or "Lowest" Scale on a multi-meter, such as mine...
...Very "High" Ohm's readings found/seen, when measuring the Ignition Coils "Secondary Coil", shouldn't be as Fussy as the "Primary Coils" reading, due to the very "High" Ohm Readings involved.
Bottom Line...Make sure that You take into consideration your Ohm/Multimeters Zero-Calibration with the test leads attached to your Ohm/Multi-meter, Especially when you are trying to measure any Resistance Circuit that "Will" be Displaying "Low Ohm's Readings!!!"
Gee, I wish that this yellow multi-meter of mine had a way to do a "Zero-Set" for Calibrating "All" of the Ohm Scales (resolution) Read-outs, before I start taking actual Ohm's Measurements on the Part, or Piece in question...
...kinda looks like the Older "Analogue" (aka, has a needle/pointer, that "Waves" at You!...lol) multi-meters that I have, have an advantage over my yellow "Digital" multi-meter, in that, I can Actually "SET" the "Zero" Point, on any Ohm Scale that I'm wanting to use at the time!!!...
...and...
...for the time being...
..."That's All Folks!"...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow nice vid not the coil I was looking for but still good thanks
littlebignuts02
Greetings once again littlebignuts02....Thanks again for your great comment....Now, about that Information that I said that I was going to tell you about...so, here it is....I currently have "3" Different "Types" of Ignition Coil Videos that you can watch on my RUclips Channel, and they are...This one, that you have already watched (2 of them, both Long and Short version videos)...I have "2" HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil Test videos (and again I say, a Long version, and a Short version)...and I also have an Ignition Coil Test, of the type of Ignition Coil that is found on a mid 90's Chevy or GMC 4.3 Litre (262 Cubic Inch, I think) "V-6" Engine that was mounted just above one of the valve/rocker covers....There are also quite a few "Ignition" related videos, such as Distributor Cap inspection, Ignition Wires testing, and other automotive videos, that you can find on my RUclips Channel as well....Just type...RockysRoadshow...in the RUclips search box, at the top of RUclipss main page, and that should show you a list of all of my videos that I have made so far (79 videos, I think)...enjoy....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.