Wow, that's a very solid design. Please do a video with different materials. I'd be curious how many different materials you'd be able to machine with that router
Good job on your assembly. 3d print to help assembly or some parts is really usefull. I used to have one mpcnc, but be careful, the stepper motor support must be replaced ASAP because of the deformation due to the heat. (Even ASA or ABS) That's one of the only things you have to replace imediately. After that try to make a special storage (like foldable for space savings) or easy adaptation for a laser, and you're good to go now with whatever process you want. These are the next levels at least for me). All in one tools, embedded software in a rpi with laserweb4, full safety system manage by an arduino (2nd one to use). That's just my point of view, from someone who don't have too many space for it to work, i need to remove or put it back fast and easily.
I did actualky noticed the deformation rather quick. But it held on long enough for me to make a new cnc with aluminum. The 3d printed version was always a temporary solution for me. I definitly have a lot planned for the cnc but for now it wil have to wait :)
You are right to some extend. I wouldn't say PLA melts at 40deg but it does get significantly softer. Using PLA for such a machine isn't that long lasting. Especially with my design. However this machine was never meant to be used over a long period of time. It was a temporary solution to build a metal version in the future. I think it held up considerably well but there where some parts that showed significant deformation after about a month. Mainly the Z-Axis motor mount and the spindle carriage.
I designed the parts to reduce force levers as much as possible. It seems to be working fine for me. 3D printed parts are surprisingly strong if you use enough infill. If you are concerned about this, you can change it as the Fusion 360 files are available (on Thingiverse). It should be possible without much effort.
Great video and I'm very impressed with your design and your assembly , thank you so much for sharing your work of art and keep it up! I have searched far and wide to choose the best possible DIY 3D printed CNC machines, and yours is the best one I have seen in recent times. I have decided this is the machine I am going to build. Looking forward to seeing more videos of how this machine is handling different materials such as acrylic and aluminium. In the meantime, I noticed in the video you have left the y-axis ball screws hanging in the air. I am sure this was just during the time you were testing and now you have fitted the end supports. Secondly, I'm curious to find out the reason behind raising the profiles to rest on the plywood surface using 16 3dp blocks. And besides raising the usable z-axis height, does it serve any otheer purpose such as for reducing the vibrations? I also noticed you have screwed the linear rails for the z-axis directly into the 3D printed mount without using embedded nuts or counterbored bolt inserts at the back of the mount. Surely over time and the loading of the spindle will eventually become loose - no?
The 3dp blocks were originally designed to increase z-height without introducing more vibration. However, as you may have noticed, I was unable to install the front blocks. This has turned out to be a blessing as it allows me to hang materials out the front, which is pretty handy. When it comes to screwing straight into the 3dp parts that's definitely something to worry about and if I were to design this machine again I would definitely change a few things. I personally don't seem to have any issues as I've been using fairly long screws, but that might change in the future. I'm not worried about that though, as I'm already planning to rebuild this machine with aluminum parts. Not because this machine is inherently bad, but because it allows for some designs that would not be possible with 3dp parts.
@@SirKuhnhero Thank you for your reply. It makes perfect sense, this is v1.0 and improvements have to follow from lessons learned. I too am looking to do the same, build a reasonably priced and capable cnc and use it to machine aluminium parts to replace some of the 3dp parts to further improve and make it better. Looking forward to seeing your video, while I try and get the bits and pieces together. Forgot to add, if one was to use 2060 profiles for y-axis, that would give an additional 20mm lift to provide extra z-axis height. But I don't quite know if that would introduce flexing and resonance and might not be a good idea. Just guessing because I am not a metals engineer :)
I wouldn't recommend going with a smaller profile as I've already noticed a bit of flex from it and I don't know how much worse a smaller profile would be.
@@SirKuhnhero The other thing I noticed is you drilled the holes in the profiles for fixing the linear rails. If I may ask, why not make it easier and mount the rails using T-nuts. I have seen others use that method. It would simplify the build also and maybe gain extra z-axis height.
You're right. It would definitely simplify the building process. Drilling and tapping the holes is pretty tricky and t-nutz would certainly be easier to use. The main reason for this was to simplify the design of the parts around the rails (bearing block, brace, motor mount). In hindsight it would have been wiser to use T-nuts and I will change that in the next version as well. It definitely works, but it's not really worth the extra effort.
I uploaded a list of all components to Thingiverse as an Excel spreadsheet. However, I cannot provide the exact links as I am currently unable to log into Aliexpress and therefore do not have access to my purchase history. I will update it as soon as possible.
You could. You would have to redesign the mounts for the stepper motors, or possibly design an adapter. But I'm not sure if that would be a good idea. Nema 17 stepper motors have much lower torque, so you might run into problems there. So I wouldn't recommend it for a machine like this.
There should be a document with a list of all components including links on both the thingiverse and the thangs page. These links are not the ones I bought as I can no longer log into my aliexpress account, but they should be a starting point. I can't promise everything is on this list, but I'm pretty sure it is. I hope it helps.
@@SirKuhnhero First, thanks for the reply. Sorry but I couldn't find on thingiverse about the 2020 and 2080 extrusions (measurements and drilling). Also on MGN15H linear rails (measurements) and ball screws (measurements) and other aluminum extructural parts. PS.: And the aluminum part that holds the stepper motor on the z axis. Thanks
@Daniel Fernandes Sorry I'm replying so late. There should be a Parts.xlxs file on Thingiverse. Inside you should find the dimensions for the linear rails, ball screws and aluminum extrusions under OTHER. There are 3D printable files for aligning the linear rails. You can then use the linear rail itself as a drilling guid. As for "the aluminum part that holds the stepper motor on the z axis", I'm not sure what you mean by that. The stepper motors are held by 3D printed parts, there are no aluminum parts. I'm working on an aluminum version but that won't be ready for a while. I hope it helps.
That is very nice and cool machine. I surprised from your 3D model design. Are you designed 3D model in Fusion 360? And can you tutorial how to create 3D model?
Yes. I built this machine in Fusion 360. However, I've already planned for the next videos and I'm really pressed for time. But I'll keep that in the back of my mind. Maybe I can incorporate that into one of my future projects.
I do not fully understand the question. What exactly do you mean? If you are reffering to the total cost of this machine it is around $600 without any end mills or the electronics. That cost me another $75-100, but I'm not to sure about that. For me it was worth it and I had a lot of fun.
I don't really have any plan to sell a kit of this version. The time it would take makes this infeasible. If I where to sell some sort of kit it would probably be the aluminum version since the price difference is not that large.
I don't NEED a cnc machine but I definitely could find uses for it and I do love projects xD
I'm glad you liked it!
This is a very solid video, thank you. I cant wait for the rest on this project
Wow, that's a very solid design. Please do a video with different materials. I'd be curious how many different materials you'd be able to machine with that router
This is something I have in the works. But it won't be the next video.
Good job on your assembly. 3d print to help assembly or some parts is really usefull.
I used to have one mpcnc, but be careful, the stepper motor support must be replaced ASAP because of the deformation due to the heat. (Even ASA or ABS) That's one of the only things you have to replace imediately.
After that try to make a special storage (like foldable for space savings) or easy adaptation for a laser, and you're good to go now with whatever process you want. These are the next levels at least for me). All in one tools, embedded software in a rpi with laserweb4, full safety system manage by an arduino (2nd one to use). That's just my point of view, from someone who don't have too many space for it to work, i need to remove or put it back fast and easily.
I did actualky noticed the deformation rather quick. But it held on long enough for me to make a new cnc with aluminum. The 3d printed version was always a temporary solution for me.
I definitly have a lot planned for the cnc but for now it wil have to wait :)
Congratulations. I wish you continued success
Will last 4 weeks. PLA melts at 40deg and creeps even on room temp, parts will be offset in a year by millimeters.
You are right to some extend. I wouldn't say PLA melts at 40deg but it does get significantly softer. Using PLA for such a machine isn't that long lasting. Especially with my design. However this machine was never meant to be used over a long period of time. It was a temporary solution to build a metal version in the future.
I think it held up considerably well but there where some parts that showed significant deformation after about a month. Mainly the Z-Axis motor mount and the spindle carriage.
The Y axis carriages are very thin. I can't see how that is not going to allow lateral movement on your X axis.
I designed the parts to reduce force levers as much as possible. It seems to be working fine for me. 3D printed parts are surprisingly strong if you use enough infill. If you are concerned about this, you can change it as the Fusion 360 files are available (on Thingiverse). It should be possible without much effort.
Great video and I'm very impressed with your design and your assembly , thank you so much for sharing your work of art and keep it up!
I have searched far and wide to choose the best possible DIY 3D printed CNC machines, and yours is the best one I have seen in recent times. I have decided this is the machine I am going to build. Looking forward to seeing more videos of how this machine is handling different materials such as acrylic and aluminium.
In the meantime, I noticed in the video you have left the y-axis ball screws hanging in the air. I am sure this was just during the time you were testing and now you have fitted the end supports. Secondly, I'm curious to find out the reason behind raising the profiles to rest on the plywood surface using 16 3dp blocks. And besides raising the usable z-axis height, does it serve any otheer purpose such as for reducing the vibrations?
I also noticed you have screwed the linear rails for the z-axis directly into the 3D printed mount without using embedded nuts or counterbored bolt inserts at the back of the mount. Surely over time and the loading of the spindle will eventually become loose - no?
The 3dp blocks were originally designed to increase z-height without introducing more vibration. However, as you may have noticed, I was unable to install the front blocks. This has turned out to be a blessing as it allows me to hang materials out the front, which is pretty handy. When it comes to screwing straight into the 3dp parts that's definitely something to worry about and if I were to design this machine again I would definitely change a few things. I personally don't seem to have any issues as I've been using fairly long screws, but that might change in the future. I'm not worried about that though, as I'm already planning to rebuild this machine with aluminum parts. Not because this machine is inherently bad, but because it allows for some designs that would not be possible with 3dp parts.
@@SirKuhnhero Thank you for your reply. It makes perfect sense, this is v1.0 and improvements have to follow from lessons learned. I too am looking to do the same, build a reasonably priced and capable cnc and use it to machine aluminium parts to replace some of the 3dp parts to further improve and make it better. Looking forward to seeing your video, while I try and get the bits and pieces together.
Forgot to add, if one was to use 2060 profiles for y-axis, that would give an additional 20mm lift to provide extra z-axis height. But I don't quite know if that would introduce flexing and resonance and might not be a good idea. Just guessing because I am not a metals engineer :)
I wouldn't recommend going with a smaller profile as I've already noticed a bit of flex from it and I don't know how much worse a smaller profile would be.
@@SirKuhnhero The other thing I noticed is you drilled the holes in the profiles for fixing the linear rails. If I may ask, why not make it easier and mount the rails using T-nuts. I have seen others use that method. It would simplify the build also and maybe gain extra z-axis height.
You're right. It would definitely simplify the building process. Drilling and tapping the holes is pretty tricky and t-nutz would certainly be easier to use. The main reason for this was to simplify the design of the parts around the rails (bearing block, brace, motor mount). In hindsight it would have been wiser to use T-nuts and I will change that in the next version as well. It definitely works, but it's not really worth the extra effort.
If you had links to the hardware you used that would be a big help
I uploaded a list of all components to Thingiverse as an Excel spreadsheet. However, I cannot provide the exact links as I am currently unable to log into Aliexpress and therefore do not have access to my purchase history. I will update it as soon as possible.
Great project, I'm also interested in the parts list.
Hi great video, I was wondering if I can replace the nema 23 stepper motors with nema 17 ?
You could. You would have to redesign the mounts for the stepper motors, or possibly design an adapter. But I'm not sure if that would be a good idea. Nema 17 stepper motors have much lower torque, so you might run into problems there. So I wouldn't recommend it for a machine like this.
Great. In addition to the .STL files, don't you provide a list and purchase link for the other components (mechanical and electronic)? Thanks
There should be a document with a list of all components including links on both the thingiverse and the thangs page. These links are not the ones I bought as I can no longer log into my aliexpress account, but they should be a starting point. I can't promise everything is on this list, but I'm pretty sure it is. I hope it helps.
@@SirKuhnhero First, thanks for the reply. Sorry but I couldn't find on thingiverse about the 2020 and 2080 extrusions (measurements and drilling). Also on MGN15H linear rails (measurements) and ball screws (measurements) and other aluminum extructural parts.
PS.: And the aluminum part that holds the stepper motor on the z axis. Thanks
@Daniel Fernandes
Sorry I'm replying so late. There should be a Parts.xlxs file on Thingiverse. Inside you should find the dimensions for the linear rails, ball screws and aluminum extrusions under OTHER. There are 3D printable files for aligning the linear rails. You can then use the linear rail itself as a drilling guid. As for "the aluminum part that holds the stepper motor on the z axis", I'm not sure what you mean by that. The stepper motors are held by 3D printed parts, there are no aluminum parts. I'm working on an aluminum version but that won't be ready for a while. I hope it helps.
@@SirKuhnhero Found it, thank you very much.
That is very nice and cool machine. I surprised from your 3D model design. Are you designed 3D model in Fusion 360? And can you tutorial how to create 3D model?
Yes. I built this machine in Fusion 360. However, I've already planned for the next videos and I'm really pressed for time. But I'll keep that in the back of my mind. Maybe I can incorporate that into one of my future projects.
how much money did you enjoy this pleasure? to assemble it?
I do not fully understand the question. What exactly do you mean? If you are reffering to the total cost of this machine it is around $600 without any end mills or the electronics. That cost me another $75-100, but I'm not to sure about that. For me it was worth it and I had a lot of fun.
Thingiverse link is broken
I am aware of that. I tried to fix it without uploading it again but that didn't work. It will work again soon.
If you are interested to sale it because I want to purchase it
I don't really have any plan to sell a kit of this version. The time it would take makes this infeasible. If I where to sell some sort of kit it would probably be the aluminum version since the price difference is not that large.