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Absolutely, the code is designed to handle that. Some people have actually build my Hexapod design and as of now all of them chose to ignore the LEDs.

I am using MG996R servos

Probably not with the stm32 that I am currently using. If I where to use something like ROS running on a pi it would be much easier.

​@@SirKuhnhero lol you should give a try. You'll be the first in the world I think that will have an ai bot like yours running around lol. Probably would freak some people out seeing something like that walking towards them at night haha. 🤙✌️

It's definitly on my list of future projects :)

Glad you liked it :)

When assembling the legs I made sure the angle of each joint is about 90deg. Before I assembled the leg I also positioned all of the servos to be at a 90deg angel (considering the servo can move fro 0 to 180 deg). After that there is a small offset variable that allows me to fine tune the angle to compensate for slight changes or inaccuracies during the building process.

I don't quit understand what you mean. Do you mean which one of the drivers has the solder jumper for the second I2C address soldert? Feel free to send me an Email (sirkuhnhero@posteo.com) with some more information and some images or videos. I would be happy to help you :)

I don't think I will do something like this for this version. Making a video takes a LOT of time. However I do have Ideas for a v1.1, basically a very similar design but with a few small upgrades, and I might make a full tutorial for that. If you or other people have any Questions I would be more than happy to help you :)

@@SirKuhnhero thank you so much but i have all the parts exept the LEDs what if i dont put LEDs on the project what should i do ?

You can just leave them out if you want to. Simply not use the #define for the LEDs in the header.h file. The Hexapod code will ignore everything that has to do with the LEDs

Do you mean Upgrades I would do to a future Version? I would mostly try to make the leg more repairable. Right now replacing a Servo takes more time than I would like since you need to remove the LEDs to do so. I would also like to add a foot sensor. This could allow the Hexapod to walk more naturally on uneven surfaces.

@@SirKuhnhero Your unique leg design caught my attention; I'm curious, have you tested its capability to climb stairs? Also, if there are any other challenges you've encountered with the leg design or any other aspect of your hexapod that you'd like to address for improved functionality. Other than 3D printed parts can you suggest good material for making hexapods. Your perspective on enhancing the design is invaluable!

I did not test its capabilities of climbing stairs. I doubt it can climb normal human stairs, it is just nor large enough. One of the issues I have with my leg design is repairability. This is mainly due o the LED strip since I need to rip it of when I want to replace a Servo. Also routing the cables inside the leg looks awesome but is annoying to work with. Another Issues I have is Power. I underestimated the amount of current each servo draws. This gets really noticeable if I want to walk faster.

I used PLA. But it doesn't really matter as long as you don't use something super flexible.

@@SirKuhnhero im gonna do ur project but if i have problem can i contact u ?

@@bavin1780 Sure. The best way to contact me is through Email (sirkuhnhero@posteo.com)

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I soldered two male and one female XT60 connector together to create a compact y splitter. For charging I used my labbench power supply (set to 8.4V and 2A). I don't need to worry about balancing since the BMS takes care of that. Alternatively you could also use a constant current power supply (with 8.4 Volt).

I am not getting a proper idea about what are you talking about can you give your mail so i can send you the images of my hexa pod circuit?

Sure. You can send me a mail to sirkuhnhero@posteo.com

I think you would only need to change the "DATA_PIN" for the LED strip and the "txBluetooth" & "rxBluetooth" for your bluetooth module in the header.h file. Since the servo driver uses I2C you probably wont need to change that if you use I2C0. You might need to change the channel for each servo depending on where you connect them on the driver (in output.cpp). You will also need to change the platform.ini file. right now it is set up to build for the stm32. I don't know what changes you need exactly but you can create a new PlatformIO project and take a look at the created platformio.ini file. That will be a good template. Just remember that you need to keep the lib_deps definition. Without them it doesn't include the required libraries.

@@SirKuhnhero thank you so much

There were 2 connections of servo on the stm32 on A7 AND A6 so are they anolog or didgital outpit pins ?

Do you mena B6 and B7? I think those are digital pins. But more importantly, they are the pins for the I2C bus.

@@SirKuhnhero thanks

You will need to open the Hexapod_code folder with PlatformIO. PlatformIO will handle compiling all of the files into once you tell it to upload to your microcontroller. If you have never used PlatformIO I would recoment doing a very simple project (like a blink sketch) just to get some experience with a simpler project.

Should work. I think I remember having seen some Hexapods using an arduino. I am just a little bit worried that it is not fast enough for the inverse kinematics. I have no idea how unoptimized my code is. But even if the inverse kinematics end up slowing it down, which I don't consider to be likely, it will just walk a bit slower.

I have honestly no idea. Every time I get one of those errors I end up fixing it without really knowing how. I just Google stuff until it works again.

@@SirKuhnhero how did you upload the upload the code using st-link or FTDI programmer and if you have used an FTDI programmer can tell the exact module

I used both at some point. I don't really know the exact module, but YP-05 is written on the back. It's one of those red boards that you see everywhere. Don't know if that answers your question. Sorry, I can't be of more help.

@@SirKuhnhero it helped

@@SirKuhnhero i just to need to ask one more question did you flash the bootloader or you always connect the stm32 to that module and then to you pc and then upload it

For the Microcontroller I used an STM32, which I programmed using an ST-Link and the PlatformIO addon for VS Code.

You will have to upload all of them using PlatformIO.

Okk thanks

I don't know where you live, so I don't know what modules are available. But any 2s BMS should work fine if it is rated for something like 20A of current. Just make sure it also balances the cells (most should do that though).

I live in india , mumbai and everywhere it is out of stock . So Hx-2s-D20 is available should i use that ?

And can i use mgn995 instead of mgn996 ?

Thanks for replying

Sorry for asking so many questions 😅

I used my cnc that I built in a previous video. Although you could probably achieve the same result with simpler tools ;)

@@SirKuhnhero Thank you! Did you try those suggestions made by @zumbazumba1? Curious if they made a noticeable difference 🙂.

I haven't made any changes to my Cyclone yet. But I think these changes would make a big difference. If I make a V2 at some point in the future I will definitely include them.

Thanks :)

I made a simple y splitter between the battery and the power converter. I can unplug the batter and charge it with my lap bemch power supply or alternativly charge it while the Hexapod is running. Hope this helps :)

If you are having trouble figuring out the wiring I would recomend the GitHub page. I have a wiring diagram there :) That big conector you saw is probably my Y-splitter. For the development I wanted to make shure I could power the hexapod with my lab bench supply with the battery connected. If you have any more Issues feel free to send me an Email. I would be happy to help you :). I do have exams at the moment so I might not reply right away.

Thank-you! I wasn't even sure I would get a reply in the first place.@@SirKuhnhero

What exactly do you mean by common? Do you mean GND? If so then they are already joined. Thanks for the suggestion though :)

The GND outputs of the buck converters should be joined together as they are both separate power supplies. It's like when using a 24v and 48v power supply on a 3D printer. The -ve output on the power supplies are joined to remove interference@@SirKuhnhero

I made sure to assemble the legs with each servo fist being moved to the center position (90 if the servo range is between 0 and 180). Since I also assembled it with each joint having a 90 degree angle I have enough movement in the Servo :)

@@SirKuhnhero so you wasted 90 in the worst position possible leting it folded all the time ?

Glad you like it ;)

Go for it. If it helps your Project I am happy you got that idea from me :)

My pleasure ;)

Thank you :)

Thanks!

I did solder everything myself. the Total cost is around 35 Euros (including switches) :)

@@SirKuhnhero oh wow, that's super low! Might certainly give it a try, thanks for sharing!

@@AdrianTache Just to make sure I don't creat any false expectations, that doesn't include shipping. I don't really remeber how much exactly I paid for shipping but I will update the GitHub page with a better price breakdown. :)

Thanks :)

My name is Robin :) Why ya asking?

Danke :)

I think it took me something like three to four weeks :)

Thanks :)

What you have to do is set the stepsPerMillimeter correctly. If I remember correctly the formular I used was (desiredDistance / actualDistance) * currentStepsPerMillimeter However you should make sure to calibrate over a longer distance, like 100mm or even more, to make shure the error in your measurments doesn't have a big impact. I did this a while ago so I might be wrong. Hope this helps :) Edit: fixed typing error

I have make change in GRBL or in CNCJS. Thanks for showing response

You can set and read the values for parameters (inclusing steps per millimeter) through GCode commands in CNCjs. I don't know the specific command of the top of my head though. I can look into it a bit later :)

Sir I did find the console but I’m unable to make changes into it.

Just to confirm. If you send the command "$$" through the console do you see a list of values starting with "$0" and some descriptions? If yes you can change those (specifically steps per millimeter for the x axis) by typing "$100=newStepsPerMillimeter". You can then check whether the values where applied by typing "$$" again. Remember you have to be connected to the Arduino running GRBL for this to work. Hope this helps :)

I made sure to have a XT60 connection between the battery and the rest of the system. When I want to charge the battery I can just unplug it an charge it with my lab bench power supply :)

I have also built thiss but i have not understood how you have recharged the battery

Yea that was a pain. But better than nothing :)

That is a great idea. I don’t know why I didn’t think of adding sound effects sooner. I am currently quit busy but I will definitely do that at some point.

You are right to some extend. I wouldn't say PLA melts at 40deg but it does get significantly softer. Using PLA for such a machine isn't that long lasting. Especially with my design. However this machine was never meant to be used over a long period of time. It was a temporary solution to build a metal version in the future. I think it held up considerably well but there where some parts that showed significant deformation after about a month. Mainly the Z-Axis motor mount and the spindle carriage.

Thank you for the input :) You are right. You should not solder directly onto a li-ion cell. However since I got mine from an old e bike battery they still had some nickle strips that where spot welded. When I was soldering to the cell I was actually soldering to those nickle strips. Might have been hard to see. Personally I had no real problems with heat. But I also don't run it for long periods of time. I am also not the biggest fan of hot glue. But I had no real issues so far because everything I need to access regularly is not using hot glue. However I would do something different with the LEDs for the legs. I had to replace a Servo once and it quit annoying. Also you are right about the power consumption of the LEDs. When I first turned it on the buck converter was screaming in pain. However 100% brightness is way to bright anyway. I ended up using it on 1%-3% brightness.

Thank you! :)