Thank you so much!!! My car was in limp mode and I did what you suggested and my car is fixed!!!! Thank you so much you saved me thousands of dollars….
If you think that's bad wait until they can make it go into limp mode for even maintenance services. That's part of the reason for electric transition but also because they are making tons off the mining
@@DownunderDaz Well, it's not. LOL. Better to have an annoying error, that on rare occasion happens for wrong reasons, than not to have one and need an 8k $ for an engine replacement, cause a 150$ waste gate valve was stuck for too long.
Thank you very much. I have followed your instruction and successfully manged to fix the limp mode issue, by cleaning the fuel cap and surround but also applying some Vaseline to the cap’s seal. It worked. Mecedes Dealership in London initially refused to acknowledge the problem, when the vehicle went in for a full service which cost me £700. They then requested for additional £150 charge to carry out a diagnostic test, which I refused. Well done and thank you again.
I am a auto mechanic recently i was trying so hard to fix a car with same problem after watching your video i fix that car in minutes thank you so much for this video i have learned something new from you master
Dear Sir, Many thanks for your video. It really worked as I kept getting low engine power on my Vauxhall Corsa 2015 and I was told that it will cost £70-75 for just the diagnostic check and then further amount for the fault fixing. Many thanks for your help and I wish you and your family and your subscribers a very Happy Christmas and lots of Lord's blessings and Grace on you. - Manish
Nice info!! I always get limp mode on our 07 Nissan March( Micra) after refueling so this evening tried tightening the gas cap and did a run around the block...so far No limp mode. I will continue to observe the coming days and will comment on the observation...Thank you so much for sharing
Daz - I can't believe this actually worked. Had a 2012 Mercedes C300 with 60k miles in my garage for almost a year in limp mode. This was my last video before I was giving up and taking it to the dealership. Still in shock that it worked. Occam's Razor I guess. Thank you.
...my 2001 ml430 went on limp mode this morning, had to go back home in low gear and would not shift. Tried what you suggested, and now I'm good to go. Thanks...
I tried this while I was driving and looking at the video and the car actually was restored to a normal mode but soon after like three seconds it went back to limp mode because probably I do have a problem with my car, but it actually works if you don’t have a problem in your car
I’ve had this problem with my Volvo c30. I always considered lots of clicks overkill but now my car is working fine after checking boost hoses and the throttle body and other things. Liked and subbed ❤ from the uk 😀
*Additionally for Limp Mode:* *A)* Wheel Speed Sensor may have gone bad, or the wire connectors to the ABS module might be dirty, corroded [or frayed due to rubbing on other body parts]. *B)* Transmission shifter sensor may be loose or have gone bad. After years of vibration, or from a bad engine mount or trans mount, the shifter sensor may have broken loose. *C)* MAF is dirty or bad, or wiring in MAF connector, the wiring pin connector may have broken or not connecting fully, *D)* TPS, throttle position sensor has can bad, *E)* Dirty, old, spent, worn transmission fluid and filter, causing one or more trans solenoid to stick. This would cause secondary malfunction in some auto makers ESP BAS system, thus tripping car into Limp Mode *F)* Vehicle stability sensors located in at least two positions [one near front, one near rear or vehicle] may have broken loose or - unlikely but possibly - may have gone bad/bent control arm. *G)* Transmission wiring harness connector pins may have broken, become dirt or corroded, due to issue mentioned above, from vibration due to bad engine or trans mount. Rare but possible. Of course, prioritize your own evaluation based on ease and cost > start with the easiest repair and the cheapest repair, and work your way down this list. Major, high cost repairs such as transmission rebuilds, major engine rebuilds are almost never necessary with any vehicle under 200K odometer if the vehicle was driven by a normal mature adults, who regularly maintenance their vehicles. Lastly, keep in mind that cause and effect can be overlapping such as one issue of malfunction in one part causing another part to malfunction. This is primary issue causing secondary issue, such as TPS issues causing misreads with MAF which is causing misreads with transmission shifting points, thus kicking the vehicle into Limp Mode. *Limp Mode is a safety mechanism for the cars power-train.* Sensors read information from the part and send that information to other processes in the system. Limp Mode can be tied to excess or insufficient heat, pressure, air, fuel and electrical flow....
@@uncleronny6748 in case you haven't solved your limp mode problem, try cleaning your CAN pin connectors with electronics cleaner, and then adding electronics lubricant after cleaning. After 12 years of searching for answers to my own limp mode problems, I finally came across a video post in RUclips discussing the same issues I was having. Frequent limp mode, misfires, stalling when hitting bumps in the road, shifting irregularities, erratic idle, engine temp fluctuations. After watching the video, I removed the cover behind the fuse box under the front hood, just in front of the brake fluid reservoirs, and removed the CAN pin connectors to discover almost 25% of the pins were corroded, discolored the same way a battery post would look (bluish green and white crud in the pin slots and on the pins) I cleaned the pins with electrical cleaner and a plastic mini brush, and pin holes too. Reassembled everything and afterwards, all problems mentioned above have vanished, after 12 years of trying to solve the problems) give it a try. Easy repair.
Thank you kind sir. This worked for me. Check engine did not immediately show uo but I can feel the loss in power. On my way home, on an incline, check engine showed up. Did what you advised and worked. Note to all reading this, I noticed the loss in power also after I went to a petrol station. Was even thinking if the attendant loaded the right fuel for my vehicle earlier when I noticed the power loss.
I didn't know what was going on with this car! Not going to lie; i panicked a little bit because I just bought it 6 months ago. you looked honest so I click on and low and behold I went to the gas station on my way home yesterday! I did notice something but not really because i was only under a mile away from my destination. On my way to work this morning though I was concerned because i couldn't quite get pass 40 MPH. On my way home.... I was scared! I type in RUclips what I thought was appropriate "Why can't I go pass 40MPH?" I watched your video and Boom!! Thank you for taking the time to do this! God Bless you!!
Thanks Mario. Glad it worked for you. I have been a car dealer on and off for 35+ years and owned around 3000 vehicles. I have had to do work on just about all of them, so have picked up many tips over the years, which I am happy to share. Happy motoring! Daz.
Thank you, sir, for this video. IM going online right now and looking for an oem gas cap for my 2004 pt cruiser touring automatic. I went to 2 motor shop and they want me to replace my computer and a transmission flush also. I think I'm going to try this first. Thank you again 🙏
Literally everything can cause limp mode, it's "you have a malfunction, no, you can't fix it next year, you have to do it now" kind of situation. Which in fact saves drivers tons of money every year.
that suggestion of yours worked perfectly for me today on my 07 Audi A6 Diesel.... six extra clicks on the fuel cap, also the light went out on the dash, thank you very much, cant believe it worked but it did... feel happier now as heading for Dublin tomorrow morning from Youghal, Cork
@@dhalsim-1 I was able to correct the problem before hooking up the scan tool. But I believe the code for this situation is a detection of a fault in the Fuel Injection System.
You could try having someone put pressure down on the flap and try starting up gain. Sounds like an air tight seal may not be needed for your vehicle. Good luck.
my 2012 KIA RIO was in an Official Kia service for 3 MONTHS. The total amount I end up paying was $2714! But the problem was fixed after they change the CONTROL ASSY-HEATHER which costs around $100. Yes, $100, instead of $2714. Maybe this information could be useful to someone. My car was going in LIMP MODE. Seems it was a very very rare case. Something that they had never seen before. They change many expensive parts (like the wiring harness and PCM control) and the car was not working. I had to pay for all those changes without solving anything. It has been almost 9 months since they fixed and the car is working great! Hopefully continues this way!
That is so frustrating and costly. They won't admit it, but a lot of dealership technicians often have no idea what could be wrong, so they start a process of elimination by changing likely things. This is the most expensive way of doing it of course, unless they strike it lucky first time.
I'm having a similar problem. Is yours a soul? Mine is a 2017 and I go into limp mode often (not able to go past 3000 rpm's with slow start and terrible acceleration) is this similar to your situation? I'm currently in the pcm changing step...
How clever. All my warning lights were on and I followed your instructions re the fuel filler cap, turned it to 6 clicks and all sorted. Still puzzled though?
I think my 2020 Hyundai Veloster just went into "limp mode" early this morning. Check engine light, and virtually no power. I was able to make it home. After turning car off, and re-cranking...,its completely back to normal.
Trying to stay calm today! Thought it was all pointing towards dpf needing cleaning etc… (which I’m going to do either now) But I’ve just come across your video, thanks so much! It seems fingers crossed - that this has fixed it! I took my filler cap off and gave it a clean as well as the tank hole… it’s a key one, so not a click type… but seems to have done the trick! Going for a long drive now, so wish me luck!
i wonder if this is whats happening on my 1994 SL600 Mercedes was running good and all of a sudden went into limp mode ( but throttle body issues) all wiring on this car has been replaced. these have wiring that falls apart, but this has been all redone
I cleared all codes, car came out of limp mode for a few starts and seems like it did it again. I have to scan it with the old school led scanner to see what codes came back. I think a crank sensor was what i thought i saw the last time and seemed like a culprit. There were other codes, but didn’t seem to relate to how the vehicle was running
My car went into limp mode earlier today, so disappointed, luckily I found your video and tried what you suggested and my goodness it fixed it….. thank you for your video, Gary from Ohio USA….
Excellent info mate. Our Ford Escape experienced limp mode. First o2 sensor code but runs ok then problem with door closing with anti theft code. Then puts the car in limp mode running less than 30kph. Still trying to find the cause
1050 this is not my problem I've brought every code from auto zone still can't get this check engine and transmition light off p2177 is the code 2014 base 1.6 mini paceman help please
omgosh, going out to try this on my Jag, I had put gas in a few days before and when I started it came up Restricted Performance, I will try and let you know.
My gas cap light on with transmission codes on dodge I’m try this see it works I sure be smelling gas fumes it’s running rough like missing I changed plugs coils still not fixed hopefully ur way fixed it I just installed a motor now transmission acting up with a lighting bolt in parentheses making like throttle body defective
my cap clicks i have heard the cap can cause a engine light but not limp mode, good too know i have a leon mk1 tdi 150 pd i do use additives for cheap fuel as that fixed limp mode but i do get it now and again on a 70k car with a 15k turbo and only when just warm going on motorway after that its fine
I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger. My throttle light flashed on 3 times while driving but it didn’t stay on. No check engine light though. I kept driving and for 1,300 miles later and it ran normal. Then my car went into limp mode for 35 miles and wouldn’t go over 40. when I slowed down/came to a stop I could feel my engine shaking quite a bit. I took it to a mechanic and he ran codes and test drove it and it was normal… paid $80 for that.. I’ve driven 100 miles and now it’s running fine again. Hoping I don’t have to go through and replace random things.
@@DownunderDaz I’ve watched a lot of videos and something is telling me it’s the coils. I think the universe is speaking to me and now you just said it. 😅 I really hope so. Shops where I’m at charge $160/hour+… I really hope it’s just this. Thank you. This problem makes me want to just go sell my car but I’m to attached to it for that. I’m also afraid of my car just dying for no reason and then nit having one.
Also was it the throttle light that came on for you? I find it odd that my check engine light hasn’t came on. My traction control and throttle light are the only ones that blink.
My DEP LIGHT CAME ON WE ADDED DEF then it went into LIMP MODE WE CHANGED BOTH FILTERS DIEASEL & THE REGULAR FILTER STILL WANT GO OVER 10 MPH WHAT ELSE TO DO IM GOING TO TRY BOTH GAS CAP CLICKS FRIDAY AFTER THE HOLIDAY
I really thank you for sharing with us. I was surprised it really worked on my skoda yeti 2l turbo diesel engine ànd as you said got fix in less than 5 minutes yeah. Thanks again 👍
Hi. There are many things which could cause that, including dirty MAF Sensor, blocked Catalytic Convertor, blocked Air Filter, stretched Timing Chain, Crank Sensor, blocked Fuel Filter, faulty Fuel Injector/s, O2 Sensors, weak Fuel Pump, bad Coil/s. You may have a Check Engine Light come on and/or be able to read the Codes with an OBD2 Scan Tool. Worn Engine Mounts are another culprit, as when the Transmission moves from looseness, can trigger Limp Mode.
I have a 2012 ford Taurus replaced the throttle body and my vehicle sometimes stalls,backfires,and eventually goes into limp mode while driving no matter the speed at random,even when idling at times. What could be the problem? I’m getting throttle body codes p2104,p2107,p2110, and p2111
I have a Ford Focus that doesn't have a fuel cap... The car was in limp mode with the engine light on... i did a check with an ODB2 reader and it showed a fault with the EGR valve. i replaced that with a new one and all was good... 3-4 months down the line and the car has gone back into limp mode with no engine light... i done another check with the code reader but it's not showing any codes... any idea to what is possibly causing this ?
My vehicle Mitsubishi Outlander Sport 2014, its gas cap has a warning sign on it. It say Close the cap until it clicks otherwise Service Engine Soon light comes on. Thank you for this video.
2014 Kia soul plus. No codes. No power. Half throttle act like I’m pushing it way to hard to where I’m tryn to blow the engine at max redline and struggles to keep speed on hwy. what is it?
My 06 mustang just went into limp mode as i was pulling into work the wrench light came on along with engine code p061c i cleared the codes before work tonight so i could drive it to work but if i goes into limp mode again imma try this and imma be mad if it works cuz im over here thinking its my PCM becuse of the code and when it was in limo mode after i left work i started it up and tye wrench light was gone but it was still throwing p061c i went for a drive and was able to get up to 80MpH and into 5th gear i have a standard transmission i didnt think i could get up to speed like in limp mode so i am at a loss as to what ehats actually causing it
This happened to me today on the freeway with my Nissan Pathfinder, it is a turbo diesel It was not going over 80 km I’ve pulled over on the side of the road Turn the car off then everything went back to normal I was low on fuel ⛽️ I really don’t want this to happen again.
I am really praying for you Sir to see my comment. My story is long..please forgive me. I drive an Opel Astra F 180i 1995 Automatic Transmission. I bought it in June from a "careful " owner/Oldman. I drove the car with no noticeable issues ..until one day the Sport "S" light would flick and really with no problem whatsoever..but because I wouldn't want it that way, i would simply turn off my car maybe on a traffic light and turn it on again and the light would simply disappear. Now just a couple of weeks ago while driving in a highway, probably 120km/hr..i felt an occasional slight humming noise on the eccelerator pedal(approximately after every 100m of drive, at 120+ speed)..the noise would fade if i reduce my speed maybe down to 110km/hr. Now just 2weeks ago, as i was planning on visiting my parents 500km away just 3days to come, on a cold Friday morning the "S" light started flicking right after pulling off from the car park 😢 and i thought it wasn't major, the car allowed me to drive at 60km/hr without me realizing it's slowness until a moment when the road opened up for me to eccelerate ..and that's when it all began. The Revs could hardly pass 2000😢. The car couldn't speed up. I then returned it to my place of residence and the busy folks at the garage connected their machine..and gave me the following codes: (41) Gear Error, Hydraulic Fault (56) Selector Switch Wrong Signal The guys didn't have time to interpret these for me...and I had to leave by bus leaving my car behind (so frustrated). A good friend of mine took it to an Opel "Specialist" who only drove the car and prescribed that the car needed a new clutch. His charge is $USD 400😢😢. I don't have that kind of mine or even close Sir..and I am just stuck now..I am thinking of saving up and import from South Africa a used Manual gearbox for converting rather. Any suggestions please, is this gearbox that dead now??🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️ I love this car Sir, it's overall condition is so amazing. I am a classic car fan, particularly the Astra F, as this is my second car I have owned from the 200ie. I regret selling my Astra 200ie which was a Manual. Please help!! Rance from Zimbabwe 🇿🇼
Hi Rance. OK, firstly, if your Automatic Transmission was going into Sport Mode, then you may have lost top gear in the Transmission or there is a fault in the selector or Sport mode Switch. This can also be caused by worn engine mounts- As the Transmission will move from its mountings as you accelerate. This has a similar effect to changing gear on the Auto Selector, as this movement will change the length of adjustment settings. As you accelerate and the Trans position moves, you are effectively putting the selector in Sports Mode and staying longer in lower gears. This will eventually trigger Limp Mode in the Auto. You can check your engine mounts by placing the vehicle in Drive or Reverse, putting your foot on the brake and accelerating the motor. If the Engine moves more than an inch or so, the mounts are worn. There is also a mount for the Transmission. Otherwise, I would suggest removing and cleaning the Sport Mode Switch, which may be dirty. Also consider a Trans Fluid change with new filter. Good Luck, Darren.
@@DownunderDaz Surely didn't expect a quick response to my post. Thank you so much. Just question then, so the error codes I mentioned can they be affected by the same issues you highlighted?
@@fiveforward6698 I don’t know of any codes 41 or 56. It should start with P and be like P0041 or P0056. If so, your problem lies with a fault in the Oxygen Sensor and EGR Valve.
Mines constantly going into limp/low power mode. Replaced battery, throttle. Did relearn and nothing. Might be my tune on the car? Could it be wire harness connected to throttle body?
Hi, my 2007 corolla axio won't pass 40kmph all on a sudden and CVT is having delayed engagement. Took it to a couple of local garages and both said CVT needs to be replaced. Well I changed the trans fluid few weeks ago so I'm not fully trusting them. What should I do? Please note that the check engine light only comes out when I put the key in 'on' and disappears when the car starts. Anyone please help. Thanks in advance
Hi. I would start off by disconnecting the battery for at least 30 minutes or overnight. It will do a reset of the system. If no change I would buy a cheap OBD2 scan tool off eBay and see if there are any codes showing. You can then research those codes on Google. Hope this helps.
Glad it helps others, but nissan navara np300 d23 2015 don't work still limp mode, I have the engine light on and code p1453 will check it is P1453? Faulty Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Hi. I have seen that code a few times before. You either have a blocked DPF or a dirty or faulty DPF Sensor. Easy enough to clean the sensor and DPF. I would also run some Diesel Injector cleaner through the system every couple of months to stop it from coming back.
Alien👽? WTF is petrol station and petrol cap? Could it be gasoline or diesel, but definitely fuel. Isn't most combustion fuel from petroleum? 🤔 If they speak from 123 years in the future they will have very few gas/ diesel machines. alien 👾.
2017 Chevy Malibu. Comes on at random. Been in three shops so far and cant get it to produce issue and it doesn't store codes. Anyone have experience with this make/model?
Thank you so much!!! My car was in limp mode and I did what you suggested and my car is fixed!!!! Thank you so much you saved me thousands of dollars….
So glad it has helped you and many others out !
Limp mode should be illegal.
💯
I guess the manufacturer would say it was to protect other components. But we all know it’s just to send you to the Stealerships.
No
If you think that's bad wait until they can make it go into limp mode for even maintenance services. That's part of the reason for electric transition but also because they are making tons off the mining
@@DownunderDaz Well, it's not. LOL. Better to have an annoying error, that on rare occasion happens for wrong reasons, than not to have one and need an 8k $ for an engine replacement, cause a 150$ waste gate valve was stuck for too long.
Thank you very much.
I have followed your instruction and successfully manged to fix the limp mode issue, by cleaning the fuel cap and surround but also applying some Vaseline to the cap’s seal. It worked.
Mecedes Dealership in London initially refused to acknowledge the problem, when the vehicle went in for a full service which cost me £700. They then requested for additional £150 charge to carry out a diagnostic test, which I refused.
Well done and thank you again.
@@elmharr4823 So glad to hear it! So simple, but has saved many people a lot of frustration and expense.
This guy gave good advice. Its always free to just try something. Thanks !
Brilliant tip and many thanks for sharing. Thinking of purchasing a 20year old XType Jag, been told this is a common problem. Regards.
I am a auto mechanic recently i was trying so hard to fix a car with same problem after watching your video i fix that car in minutes thank you so much for this video i have learned something new from you master
Great news. We can all learn something new every day. Glad it helped.
Dear Sir, Many thanks for your video. It really worked as I kept getting low engine power on my Vauxhall Corsa 2015 and I was told that it will cost £70-75 for just the diagnostic check and then further amount for the fault fixing. Many thanks for your help and I wish you and your family and your subscribers a very Happy Christmas and lots of Lord's blessings and Grace on you. - Manish
@@a-coder-from-India Thank you Manish. Glad it was of help to you. Happy Christmas 🎅 from Down Under.
Nice info!! I always get limp mode on our 07 Nissan March( Micra) after refueling so this evening tried tightening the gas cap and did a run around the block...so far No limp mode. I will continue to observe the coming days and will comment on the observation...Thank you so much for sharing
How is your car doing? I got thenlimp mode problem as well but had the check engin light on for a while because of the gas cap. Has it worked for you?
Thank you sir. That one would not have occurred to me. I'm going to get a new cap right now.
Daz - I can't believe this actually worked. Had a 2012 Mercedes C300 with 60k miles in my garage for almost a year in limp mode. This was my last video before I was giving up and taking it to the dealership.
Still in shock that it worked. Occam's Razor I guess.
Thank you.
@@99jirvin1 So glad it has been of help. It won’t help everyone, but it has saved many. Cheers, Daz
I experienced limp mode too after refuelling a jeep patriot. Had to be towed home with a full gas tank. How bitter I was. 😡
...my 2001 ml430 went on limp mode this morning, had to go back home in low gear and would not shift. Tried what you suggested, and now I'm good to go. Thanks...
Excellent news !
I tried this while I was driving and looking at the video and the car actually was restored to a normal mode but soon after like three seconds it went back to limp mode because probably I do have a problem with my car, but it actually works if you don’t have a problem in your car
I’ve had this problem with my Volvo c30. I always considered lots of clicks overkill but now my car is working fine after checking boost hoses and the throttle body and other things. Liked and subbed ❤ from the uk 😀
Yes it doesn't take much. Today's cars are overly sensitive. Thanks for the Sub.
@@DownunderDaznot just the cars, owners to.
I can’t thank you enough
You saved my weekend
Glad it helped.
*Additionally for Limp Mode:*
*A)* Wheel Speed Sensor may have gone bad, or the wire connectors to the ABS module might be dirty, corroded [or frayed due to rubbing on other body parts].
*B)* Transmission shifter sensor may be loose or have gone bad. After years of vibration, or from a bad engine mount or trans mount, the shifter sensor may have broken loose.
*C)* MAF is dirty or bad, or wiring in MAF connector, the wiring pin connector may have broken or not connecting fully,
*D)* TPS, throttle position sensor has can bad,
*E)* Dirty, old, spent, worn transmission fluid and filter, causing one or more trans solenoid to stick. This would cause secondary malfunction in some auto makers ESP BAS system, thus tripping car into Limp Mode
*F)* Vehicle stability sensors located in at least two positions [one near front, one near rear or vehicle] may have broken loose or - unlikely but possibly - may have gone bad/bent control arm.
*G)* Transmission wiring harness connector pins may have broken, become dirt or corroded, due to issue mentioned above, from vibration due to bad engine or trans mount. Rare but possible.
Of course, prioritize your own evaluation based on ease and cost > start with the easiest repair and the cheapest repair, and work your way down this list. Major, high cost repairs such as transmission rebuilds, major engine rebuilds are almost never necessary with any vehicle under 200K odometer if the vehicle was driven by a normal mature adults, who regularly maintenance their vehicles.
Lastly, keep in mind that cause and effect can be overlapping such as one issue of malfunction in one part causing another part to malfunction. This is primary issue causing secondary issue, such as TPS issues causing misreads with MAF which is causing misreads with transmission shifting points, thus kicking the vehicle into Limp Mode.
*Limp Mode is a safety mechanism for the cars power-train.* Sensors read information from the part and send that information to other processes in the system. Limp Mode can be tied to excess or insufficient heat, pressure, air, fuel and electrical flow....
Good info thanks
Hi jen- thank you for all those suggestions!! Some I think I can do something about others I have no clue about!!
Thanks for that...think I'm in limp mode hell for the last three weeks.
@@uncleronny6748 in case you haven't solved your limp mode problem, try cleaning your CAN pin connectors with electronics cleaner, and then adding electronics lubricant after cleaning. After 12 years of searching for answers to my own limp mode problems, I finally came across a video post in RUclips discussing the same issues I was having. Frequent limp mode, misfires, stalling when hitting bumps in the road, shifting irregularities, erratic idle, engine temp fluctuations. After watching the video, I removed the cover behind the fuse box under the front hood, just in front of the brake fluid reservoirs, and removed the CAN pin connectors to discover almost 25% of the pins were corroded, discolored the same way a battery post would look (bluish green and white crud in the pin slots and on the pins) I cleaned the pins with electrical cleaner and a plastic mini brush, and pin holes too. Reassembled everything and afterwards, all problems mentioned above have vanished, after 12 years of trying to solve the problems) give it a try. Easy repair.
I’ll try this, and if it works, I’ll subscribe.
Thank you kind sir. This worked for me. Check engine did not immediately show uo but I can feel the loss in power. On my way home, on an incline, check engine showed up. Did what you advised and worked. Note to all reading this, I noticed the loss in power also after I went to a petrol station. Was even thinking if the attendant loaded the right fuel for my vehicle earlier when I noticed the power loss.
Great news. Glad it worked for you.
I didn't know what was going on with this car! Not going to lie; i panicked a little bit because I just bought it 6 months ago. you looked honest so I click on and low and behold I went to the gas station on my way home yesterday! I did notice something but not really because i was only under a mile away from my destination. On my way to work this morning though I was concerned because i couldn't quite get pass 40 MPH. On my way home.... I was scared!
I type in RUclips what I thought was appropriate "Why can't I go pass 40MPH?" I watched your video and Boom!! Thank you for taking the time to do this! God Bless you!!
Thanks Mario. Glad it worked for you. I have been a car dealer on and off for 35+ years and owned around 3000 vehicles. I have had to do work on just about all of them, so have picked up many tips over the years, which I am happy to share. Happy motoring! Daz.
Thank you, sir, for this video. IM going online right now and looking for an oem gas cap for my 2004 pt cruiser touring automatic. I went to 2 motor shop and they want me to replace my computer and a transmission flush also. I think I'm going to try this first. Thank you again 🙏
Fingers crossed. Good luck.
Maf sensor, imput and output speed sensor and bad alternator can cause limp mode too.
Literally everything can cause limp mode, it's "you have a malfunction, no, you can't fix it next year, you have to do it now" kind of situation. Which in fact saves drivers tons of money every year.
If you don't want to buy another gasoline cap you can put a wide rubber band on the inside of the cap to get a better seal.
that suggestion of yours worked perfectly for me today on my 07 Audi A6 Diesel.... six extra clicks on the fuel cap, also the light went out on the dash, thank you very much, cant believe it worked but it did... feel happier now as heading for Dublin tomorrow morning from Youghal, Cork
Glad it helped you out. Safe travels ! Darren, Gold Coast. Queensland.
Just wondering if you tested for any codes before trying this and if anything showed up?
@@dhalsim-1 I was able to correct the problem before hooking up the scan tool. But I believe the code for this situation is a detection of a fault in the Fuel Injection System.
Aww, you had me excited here! I went out to my Renault and found out it doesn’t have a cap, just a flap 😢
You could try having someone put pressure down on the flap and try starting up gain. Sounds like an air tight seal may not be needed for your vehicle. Good luck.
my 2012 KIA RIO was in an Official Kia service for 3 MONTHS. The total amount I end up paying was $2714! But the problem was fixed after they change the CONTROL ASSY-HEATHER which costs around $100. Yes, $100, instead of $2714. Maybe this information could be useful to someone.
My car was going in LIMP MODE. Seems it was a very very rare case. Something that they had never seen before. They change many expensive parts (like the wiring harness and PCM control) and the car was not working. I had to pay for all those changes without solving anything.
It has been almost 9 months since they fixed and the car is working great! Hopefully continues this way!
That is so frustrating and costly. They won't admit it, but a lot of dealership technicians often have no idea what could be wrong, so they start a process of elimination by changing likely things. This is the most expensive way of doing it of course, unless they strike it lucky first time.
@@DownunderDaz EXACTLY!
I'm having a similar problem. Is yours a soul? Mine is a 2017 and I go into limp mode often (not able to go past 3000 rpm's with slow start and terrible acceleration) is this similar to your situation? I'm currently in the pcm changing step...
I'm having this problem right now. I really hope it's this. I'm at 1500$ spent so far
@@pmk3131 mine is a 2012
How clever. All my warning lights were on and I followed your instructions re the fuel filler cap, turned it to 6 clicks and all sorted. Still puzzled though?
I think my 2020 Hyundai Veloster just went into "limp mode" early this morning. Check engine light, and virtually no power. I was able to make it home. After turning car off, and re-cranking...,its completely back to normal.
Until u found the problem it's just gonna go back into limp mode eventually
You might’ve overheated
Trying to stay calm today! Thought it was all pointing towards dpf needing cleaning etc… (which I’m going to do either now)
But I’ve just come across your video, thanks so much! It seems fingers crossed - that this has fixed it! I took my filler cap off and gave it a clean as well as the tank hole… it’s a key one, so not a click type… but seems to have done the trick! Going for a long drive now, so wish me luck!
Hyundai santa fe. This has worked for over a week now fingers crossed no more limp mode 👍👍👍
Excellent. Glad it helped. Cheers.
i wonder if this is whats happening on my 1994 SL600 Mercedes was running good and all of a sudden went into limp mode ( but throttle body issues) all wiring on this car has been replaced. these have wiring that falls apart, but this has been all redone
Quite possible. Mercedes were ahead of their time and most likely use a sealed system.
I cleared all codes, car came out of limp mode for a few starts and seems like it did it again. I have to scan it with the old school led scanner to see what codes came back. I think a crank sensor was what i thought i saw the last time and seemed like a culprit. There were other codes, but didn’t seem to relate to how the vehicle was running
Replaced rubber ring seal petrol cap on my mini cooper and cured limp mode,
That’s great news. Glad it worked for you.
My car went into limp mode earlier today, so disappointed, luckily I found your video and tried what you suggested and my goodness it fixed it….. thank you for your video, Gary from Ohio USA….
That's great Gary. Glad it helped. Cheers Mate from Gold Coast, Queensland.
So what fixed you car in curious in going through this issue
With Mercedes w209 cLk 320
@@HarlemhitPrudholme my gas cap was loose, I was advised to spin my gas cap several times, several clicks and that solved my limp mode problem
Excellent info. I will try this. My Mini is in limp mode and nothing is working so I will see if this works. Does this happen on bmw mini's commonly?
Yes, had a report before that this was a problem on a Mini.
Excellent info mate. Our Ford Escape experienced limp mode. First o2 sensor code but runs ok then problem with door closing with anti theft code. Then puts the car in limp mode running less than 30kph. Still trying to find the cause
Lt happens on a lot of Merces diesel especially
I changed everything from fuel pump to manifold sensors. Please avoid these headaches, LIST TO THIS VIDEO CLOSELY.
1050 this is not my problem I've brought every code from auto zone still can't get this check engine and transmition light off p2177 is the code 2014 base 1.6 mini paceman help please
😢
What is this p2177
I've spent money on every code auto zone had now mine is in limp mode
omgosh, going out to try this on my Jag, I had put gas in a few days before and when I started it came up Restricted Performance, I will try and let you know.
That’s a life changer. I’m going to try this hack right now, because my Hyundai Sonata went in limp mode when I tried to sell it 😢😅😂
Did it work?? . My Hyundai sonata is in limp mode right now🤦🏾♀️🤦🏾♀️🤦🏾♀️🤦🏾♀️
My gas cap light on with transmission codes on dodge I’m try this see it works I sure be smelling gas fumes it’s running rough like missing I changed plugs coils still not fixed hopefully ur way fixed it I just installed a motor now transmission acting up with a lighting bolt in parentheses making like throttle body defective
My Altima is limping after 45min-1hour of driving. I doubt this will work but will try it out. Thank you
We are having the same issue with our 2010 Altima. Did this help your vehicle or did you find something else that helped?
My Fiat 500 has been going on limp mode. I’m too scared to drive it now.
Thank you, It worked for my ford India manual transmission car.
Great news!
EGR o ring on the intake manifold may be worn. Vacuum and compression
my cap clicks i have heard the cap can cause a engine light but not limp mode, good too know i have a leon mk1 tdi 150 pd i do use additives for cheap fuel as that fixed limp mode but i do get it now and again on a 70k car with a 15k turbo and only when just warm going on motorway after that its fine
You may find that your Cam sensor or Crank sensor is on its way out with those symptoms
I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger. My throttle light flashed on 3 times while driving but it didn’t stay on. No check engine light though. I kept driving and for 1,300 miles later and it ran normal. Then my car went into limp mode for 35 miles and wouldn’t go over 40. when I slowed down/came to a stop I could feel my engine shaking quite a bit. I took it to a mechanic and he ran codes and test drove it and it was normal… paid $80 for that.. I’ve driven 100 miles and now it’s running fine again. Hoping I don’t have to go through and replace random things.
I had a car with a similar problem to that. Turned out to be an intermittent coil pack.
@@DownunderDaz I’ve watched a lot of videos and something is telling me it’s the coils. I think the universe is speaking to me and now you just said it. 😅 I really hope so. Shops where I’m at charge $160/hour+… I really hope it’s just this. Thank you. This problem makes me want to just go sell my car but I’m to attached to it for that. I’m also afraid of my car just dying for no reason and then nit having one.
Also was it the throttle light that came on for you? I find it odd that my check engine light hasn’t came on. My traction control and throttle light are the only ones that blink.
My DEP LIGHT CAME ON WE ADDED DEF then it went into LIMP MODE WE CHANGED BOTH FILTERS DIEASEL & THE REGULAR FILTER STILL WANT GO OVER 10 MPH WHAT ELSE TO DO IM GOING TO TRY BOTH GAS CAP CLICKS FRIDAY AFTER THE HOLIDAY
Been there, got the t-shirt.
I really thank you for sharing with us. I was surprised it really worked on my skoda yeti 2l turbo diesel engine ànd as you said got fix in less than 5 minutes yeah.
Thanks again 👍
Thanks for that. Now I know another model it works on. I was hearing Audi/ VW/ Skoda can be affected by a loose cap.
My car goes into limp mode at 100mph, while maximum speed is 180mph. What can be the cause
Hi. There are many things which could cause that, including dirty MAF Sensor, blocked Catalytic Convertor, blocked Air Filter, stretched Timing Chain, Crank Sensor, blocked Fuel Filter, faulty Fuel Injector/s, O2 Sensors, weak Fuel Pump, bad Coil/s. You may have a Check Engine Light come on and/or be able to read the Codes with an OBD2 Scan Tool. Worn Engine Mounts are another culprit, as when the Transmission moves from looseness, can trigger Limp Mode.
I have a 2012 ford Taurus replaced the throttle body and my vehicle sometimes stalls,backfires,and eventually goes into limp mode while driving no matter the speed at random,even when idling at times. What could be the problem? I’m getting throttle body codes p2104,p2107,p2110, and p2111
I would be checking the MAF Sensor, Electrical Connector and Air Filter. A bad Earth Connection can also cause this.
I have a Ford Focus that doesn't have a fuel cap... The car was in limp mode with the engine light on... i did a check with an ODB2 reader and it showed a fault with the EGR valve. i replaced that with a new one and all was good... 3-4 months down the line and the car has gone back into limp mode with no engine light... i done another check with the code reader but it's not showing any codes... any idea to what is possibly causing this ?
Fixed mine by replacing a very dirty engine air filter 👌 (2004 Hyundai Elantra)
Nice work!
My vehicle Mitsubishi Outlander Sport 2014, its gas cap has a warning sign on it. It say Close the cap until it clicks otherwise Service Engine Soon light comes on.
Thank you for this video.
Glad to be of help.
Thanks so much for this video.....mate. 👍
No worries. Hope it helped.
What if your vehicle does not have a gas cap?
All vehicles are manufactured with a gas cap, to prevent spills and fires. If yours is missing, please fit the appropriate cap for your model.
2014 Kia soul plus. No codes. No power. Half throttle act like I’m pushing it way to hard to where I’m tryn to blow the engine at max redline and struggles to keep speed on hwy. what is it?
My 06 mustang just went into limp mode as i was pulling into work the wrench light came on along with engine code p061c i cleared the codes before work tonight so i could drive it to work but if i goes into limp mode again imma try this and imma be mad if it works cuz im over here thinking its my PCM becuse of the code and when it was in limo mode after i left work i started it up and tye wrench light was gone but it was still throwing p061c i went for a drive and was able to get up to 80MpH and into 5th gear i have a standard transmission i didnt think i could get up to speed like in limp mode so i am at a loss as to what ehats actually causing it
It could be as simple as this. Good luck, fingers crossed.
Thank you sir. Can this work on Toyota?
Hi, Yes this applies to some Toyota Models that use a fuel reticulation system.
This happened to me today on the freeway with my Nissan Pathfinder, it is a turbo diesel It was not going over 80 km I’ve pulled over on the side of the road
Turn the car off then everything went back to normal I was low on fuel ⛽️ I really don’t want this to happen again.
Sadly in my situation it was notafixthatworkedfor me but thanks for the idea
What is your situation?
Will this apply to 06 chevy silverado also, have been dealing with limp mode since i had my 4l60e rebuilt, plz any in put would be appreciated
Thank you, sir.
I pray this fixes it !!!!
I get limp mode when I turn my lights on , I have installed led headlights
The voltage regulator is detecting a fault in the electrical circuit due to the LEDs
I put led lights in mine and now I have a limp mode problem? Could this be my problem the led lights?
@@keithjohnson3137 Yes, looking around the car forums online it seems to be a commonly reported problem.
I have a Hyundai Tucson 2006 limited 🤦🏽♂️ With the same problem
Does it also happen on new VW Tiguans?
I am really praying for you Sir to see my comment. My story is long..please forgive me. I drive an Opel Astra F 180i 1995 Automatic Transmission. I bought it in June from a "careful " owner/Oldman. I drove the car with no noticeable issues ..until one day the Sport "S" light would flick and really with no problem whatsoever..but because I wouldn't want it that way, i would simply turn off my car maybe on a traffic light and turn it on again and the light would simply disappear.
Now just a couple of weeks ago while driving in a highway, probably 120km/hr..i felt an occasional slight humming noise on the eccelerator pedal(approximately after every 100m of drive, at 120+ speed)..the noise would fade if i reduce my speed maybe down to 110km/hr. Now just 2weeks ago, as i was planning on visiting my parents 500km away just 3days to come, on a cold Friday morning the "S" light started flicking right after pulling off from the car park 😢 and i thought it wasn't major, the car allowed me to drive at 60km/hr without me realizing it's slowness until a moment when the road opened up for me to eccelerate ..and that's when it all began. The Revs could hardly pass 2000😢. The car couldn't speed up. I then returned it to my place of residence and the busy folks at the garage connected their machine..and gave me the following codes:
(41) Gear Error, Hydraulic Fault
(56) Selector Switch Wrong Signal
The guys didn't have time to interpret these for me...and I had to leave by bus leaving my car behind (so frustrated).
A good friend of mine took it to an Opel "Specialist" who only drove the car and prescribed that the car needed a new clutch. His charge is $USD 400😢😢. I don't have that kind of mine or even close Sir..and I am just stuck now..I am thinking of saving up and import from South Africa a used Manual gearbox for converting rather.
Any suggestions please, is this gearbox that dead now??🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️ I love this car Sir, it's overall condition is so amazing.
I am a classic car fan, particularly the Astra F, as this is my second car I have owned from the 200ie.
I regret selling my Astra 200ie which was a Manual. Please help!!
Rance from Zimbabwe 🇿🇼
Hi Rance. OK, firstly, if your Automatic Transmission was going into Sport Mode, then you may have lost top gear in the Transmission or there is a fault in the selector or Sport mode Switch. This can also be caused by worn engine mounts- As the Transmission will move from its mountings as you accelerate. This has a similar effect to changing gear on the Auto Selector, as this movement will change the length of adjustment settings. As you accelerate and the Trans position moves, you are effectively putting the selector in Sports Mode and staying longer in lower gears. This will eventually trigger Limp Mode in the Auto. You can check your engine mounts by placing the vehicle in Drive or Reverse, putting your foot on the brake and accelerating the motor. If the Engine moves more than an inch or so, the mounts are worn. There is also a mount for the Transmission. Otherwise, I would suggest removing and cleaning the Sport Mode Switch, which may be dirty. Also consider a Trans Fluid change with new filter. Good Luck, Darren.
@@DownunderDaz Surely didn't expect a quick response to my post. Thank you so much. Just question then, so the error codes I mentioned can they be affected by the same issues you highlighted?
@@fiveforward6698 I don’t know of any codes 41 or 56. It should start with P and be like P0041 or P0056. If so, your problem lies with a fault in the Oxygen Sensor and EGR Valve.
New fords have capless fuel tank.
Then this isn't for you
very educative
went to go try it and my gas cap only clicks once :(
In that case check the rubber seal is soft and not dried up and gone hard.
Mines constantly going into limp/low power mode. Replaced battery, throttle. Did relearn and nothing. Might be my tune on the car? Could it be wire harness connected to throttle body?
What was the problem?
@@jwaqa2085 no idea. I'm assuming it's the PCM at this point
Hi, my 2007 corolla axio won't pass 40kmph all on a sudden and CVT is having delayed engagement. Took it to a couple of local garages and both said CVT needs to be replaced. Well I changed the trans fluid few weeks ago so I'm not fully trusting them. What should I do? Please note that the check engine light only comes out when I put the key in 'on' and disappears when the car starts. Anyone please help. Thanks in advance
Also, I've noticed that the AC is blowing much cooler than before 😐
Hi. I would start off by disconnecting the battery for at least 30 minutes or overnight. It will do a reset of the system. If no change I would buy a cheap OBD2 scan tool off eBay and see if there are any codes showing. You can then research those codes on Google. Hope this helps.
You were a decent guy & got burnt. I hope you had no problem selling it later.
@@Nick41622 Yep. Sold it soon after and no problems again. I’m a Car Dealer so have had a lot of this sort of stuff happen over the past 38 years.
Great tip.
Didn’t work for my 2006 Honda civic hybrid.
Can this work on 2019 sonata ?
In theory, this should work on all makes and models. Just use the correct one to match your fuel, Petrol (Gas) or Diesel. Good Luck.
Thanks mate.
No worries. Hope it helps.
Will this work on a seat Ibiza?
Yes, same system I am told.
Will this happen on a W202 Mercedes 1998?
Can do. I have a video I made on your model also. It might help with diagnosis.
Anyone know how to bypass it on Chrysler
EVAP system sensors
Glad it helps others, but nissan navara np300 d23 2015 don't work still limp mode, I have the engine light on and code p1453 will check it is P1453?
Faulty Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Hi. I have seen that code a few times before. You either have a blocked DPF or a dirty or faulty DPF Sensor. Easy enough to clean the sensor and DPF. I would also run some Diesel Injector cleaner through the system every couple of months to stop it from coming back.
Limp mode shouldn't exist. It should just say gas cap not tighten 😅
hummmm these european vehicles are crazy to think this happens
Alien👽? WTF is petrol station and petrol cap? Could it be gasoline or diesel, but definitely fuel. Isn't most combustion fuel from petroleum? 🤔 If they speak from 123 years in the future they will have very few gas/ diesel machines. alien 👾.
All English Speaking countries call it Petrol, except for the USA, who call it Gas. We don't call it Gas, as Gas is the word for Propane.
My Saab 95 beats Bmws whilst in limp mode daily.
I do love my SAAB's
Thank you for the video.
Welcome
2017 Chevy Malibu. Comes on at random. Been in three shops so far and cant get it to produce issue and it doesn't store codes. Anyone have experience with this make/model?