I used this camera, and all of the controls were comfortable and easy to use. I don't mind that it's a heavier camera. I had been used to that since buying a Nikon F2A in the late 1970s. It feels like a larger Nikon FE, which in many ways it is.
That's great to hear. I think it's one of those "hit or miss" things. I really don't mind the size of the camera and find that it really reflects that sturdy Nikon build that I expected. However, I probably ought to get under the top deck again and see whether my problem is related to the on-off collar not working. It would make sense that this is causing continuous discharge of the battery.
The reason your EL2 is going through its batteries too quickly has to do with the collar switch around the shutter release. Set it so that the lever points toward film counter - i.e. red dot NOT showing. Then use the stand-off in winding crank to meter (as you would on an FE). The collar switch was related to motor drive use. By keeping it "on" - i.e. red dot showing - you have been keeping the meter circuit on when you put the camera away between shoots; thus the 6-v battery will most certainly exhaust prematurely. If, for some reason, you don't like pulling winding lever out from body to meter, you can certainly turn the camera on with that collar switch, but if you're not vigilant, you'll likely forget and have to go through that awkward battery changing procedure far more often than necessary.
Great video thanks! If you still have access to both cameras, could you please tell me whether the viewfinders are pretty much identical in the EL2 and FE? I'm wondering if EL2 is lower magnification/ easier to see the outer edges (impossible with my FE whilst wearing glasses)
I held up the FE to one eye and the EL2 to the other eye at the same time, giving me a binocular effect. The size of the focusing screens were identical, including the split image and ground glass collar. The outer edges of the viewfinder also aligned. The effective size of each viewfinder was identical. That is, they overlayed each other with almost no difference.
I know this is approximately 45 years past the camera's sell by date - but to extend the battery life, would setting the shutter speed to bulb effectively turn off the metering circuit?
That would make sense, because that's what happens occurs with other cameras. I just tried it, but the meter remains on. I think locking the mirror in the up position or keeping a cap on the lens would help (when not using the camera), although you always have some light coming in through the eyepiece. I should pull the top deck and take another go at the collar switch.
The reason that WHY? the battery Died is that you were using a Six Volt Alkaline battery, I have 2 of these models in which I use a 6 Volt Silver battery, and their is also the 6 Volt Lithium in which that battery does not hold well in Cold temperature weather like 25 Degrees. I also have the winders for them Nikon AW1 winders which on the camera they are Very Noisy, and when pressing the Depth of Field Button with the shutter the shutter rate will give you a 2 frame continues shooting.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I used this camera, and all of the controls were comfortable and easy to use. I don't mind that it's a heavier camera. I had been used to that since buying a Nikon F2A in the late 1970s. It feels like a larger Nikon FE, which in many ways it is.
I’m subscriber 700! Congratulations
Thanks for watch and for the subscribe!
Strange I’ve had the same battery in mine for about 6 months. And the battery is still good!
That's great to hear. I think it's one of those "hit or miss" things. I really don't mind the size of the camera and find that it really reflects that sturdy Nikon build that I expected. However, I probably ought to get under the top deck again and see whether my problem is related to the on-off collar not working. It would make sense that this is causing continuous discharge of the battery.
@@CameraTalkVideos that probably is the problem I had to fix a lot of that when I got mine.
The reason your EL2 is going through its batteries too quickly has to do with the collar switch around the shutter release. Set it so that the lever points toward film counter - i.e. red dot NOT showing. Then use the stand-off in winding crank to meter (as you would on an FE). The collar switch was related to motor drive use. By keeping it "on" - i.e. red dot showing - you have been keeping the meter circuit on when you put the camera away between shoots; thus the 6-v battery will most certainly exhaust prematurely. If, for some reason, you don't like pulling winding lever out from body to meter, you can certainly turn the camera on with that collar switch, but if you're not vigilant, you'll likely forget and have to go through that awkward battery changing procedure far more often than necessary.
Great video thanks! If you still have access to both cameras, could you please tell me whether the viewfinders are pretty much identical in the EL2 and FE? I'm wondering if EL2 is lower magnification/ easier to see the outer edges (impossible with my FE whilst wearing glasses)
I held up the FE to one eye and the EL2 to the other eye at the same time, giving me a binocular effect. The size of the focusing screens were identical, including the split image and ground glass collar. The outer edges of the viewfinder also aligned. The effective size of each viewfinder was identical. That is, they overlayed each other with almost no difference.
@@CameraTalkVideos Thank you so much, that's a huge help!
I know this is approximately 45 years past the camera's sell by date - but to extend the battery life, would setting the shutter speed to bulb effectively turn off the metering circuit?
That would make sense, because that's what happens occurs with other cameras. I just tried it, but the meter remains on. I think locking the mirror in the up position or keeping a cap on the lens would help (when not using the camera), although you always have some light coming in through the eyepiece. I should pull the top deck and take another go at the collar switch.
The reason that WHY? the battery Died is that you were using a Six Volt Alkaline battery, I have 2 of these models in which I use a 6 Volt Silver battery, and their is also the 6 Volt Lithium in which that battery does not hold well in Cold temperature weather like 25 Degrees. I also have the winders for them Nikon AW1 winders which on the camera they are Very Noisy, and when pressing the Depth of Field Button with the shutter the shutter rate will give you a 2 frame continues shooting.