"All hail the algorithm" and "Temporary solutions are the most permanent" on a shirt with nice SuperFast Matt graphics would be something I would buy to support and wear for inspiration!
For reals. Once pulled an access panel off a plane built in 71, on the back it said, "Temp. RR nxt PMI Mar86" (Temporary. Remove and replace next planned maintenance interval of March 1986). We looked it over, everything was fine, we did what the last 24 PMI crews had done; checks good reinstall.
I'm a pool guy, so I'm familiar with hydraulics. Running pumps in parallel the way you have it MAY cause issues with the flow rates, and potentially even the flow direction, IF the pumps are run at different speeds. If I understand your intentions with the system, they will be, correct? I THINK the effluent side configuration will be OK, but I could see issues with influent side if the pump speeds are running at very different speeds. The pump running at the higher speed could cause the flow through the lower speed pump to stall, or even reverse (not likely unless the pump is shut down completely). In the pool industry, we would employ one-way or pressure differential valves to prevent issues like that. Running the influent and effluent plumbing into common plenums will often resolve the issue as well. Running the influent side of the tow pumps to the lower radiator end cap with separate lines would likely resolve any potential issues. It's also possible it will be completely fine the way it is, lol. Just wanted to share my experience in case you do run into issues later.
I wonder if this might be different in a pressurised system? I've got no idea, I'm just speculating, pools generally don't have the reservoir and lines under pressure. Though then again this might not be under the same pressures seen in a vehicle cooling system
@@GingerNingerGames The pool itself is the reservoir. When in operation, all of the lines are either under pressure, or vacuum. They are not identical systems, but have common hydraulic design elements.
Hello Matt. About the leaks. When i used to work at the Saab factory in Sweden we also had problems with leaks in the cooling system. It happend when you put the clamp to close to the end of the hoose. The solution was to put the clamp no closer than 5mm to the end. Now days hooses comes with the clamp glued in the correct position. Did notice that some of your clamp was very close to the end of the hoose. Thanks for great content. John
I have been binging Matt for the past few weeks now and I have not been able to stop watching, dry humor mixed with oh yeah here's where I failed is just stupid funny
@@stevejohnson1685 PWN should be in every hardware hackers tool kit but writing from scratch shouldn't be too cumbersome. Even naively its just totalTime = onTime + offTime. So within totalTime the just needs to be a timing mechanism to set a pin as high
For a cooling fan... I think you could nab one from a VW made in the last 10 years or so. Most take a PWM input to control speed, then you don't need an external fan controller. Usually they have 2 fans, and the controller is built into the larger fan.
Great job Matt! You lost me at "I had to write some code", but your ability to work through complex issues while explaining your processes to those with lesser skills is what makes this channel great! Also your video production is first class.
Every episode I think I have everything all planned out for my ev conversion And then matt comes in with 5 things I hadn't even considered to pay attention to
Probably been stated 300 times but the uneven flow thru the batteries could be helped by a reverse return system. Feed water into one side of the manifold. Then the first supply port goes to the last return port, etc
Just discovered this channel. I binged the Jag series over the last 2 days. I love your pragmatic approach and look forward to seeing the car on the road...running under its own power. 😁
FYI you can get temperature sensors that work at any temperature. It might not be for an "automotive application" but if your temperature is below 212 degrees you won't be dealing with any great pressures you will just be moving the flow. You can basically just tig a bung on a tube and add it in line.
Hey Matt, I love these videos. I recently saw the guys at Hoonigan do something smart to get a good bead on an aluminium coolant line. They literally welded a small bead on the edge. They said that they had been doing it for years and they build cars with insane power and cooling systems. You already have the tools to make the beads so probably not a tip as useful for you. But still worth mentioning.
Restricted pub opening hours in the UK when I started boozing in the mid-1970's were a temporary measure that had started SIXTY YEARS BEFORE at the start of the 1914-1918 war. I recall standing in a pub in Aberdeen Scotland at 10 pm with a drink in hand and being confronted by a member of the bar staff who shouted "get out" in my face. In England you had another half an hour to "drink-up" (luxury). Here in Australia there are still memories of "the six-o-clock swill".
Ditto New Zealand.... though we have moved on from the sawdust on the bar floor... at the end of the night (6pm) the sodden sawdust was shoveled out the bar door...floor clean!
I think I speak on the Algorithm’s behalf when I say we are all anxious to see you driving this! Great presentation, as always, and I appreciate the insights into the whys of your decisions.
All hail the mighty algorithm! Also, neat idea with the arduino. I probably would have gone crazy using a 555 timer or something like that for the pwm signal.
Awesome build... Next system need to be 5 part series with only one about the car and the other four about random knowledge and garage organization/rewiring. 😀
Your hose/tube/bends solution is what all of us do on these projects :) Somehow I feel my 30 years of projects are validated by your videos lol. (PS, I like the Oetiker clamps too)
I love those Arduino nano every boards. Mostly because they play nice at 14ish volts.. I'm using it as a GPS speedometer and engine temperature gauge in my 1968 C20 Chevy..
Nice! I was worried that they are not rated for an automotive environment, but I think I'm just going to have redundant systems. It'll still cost a small fraction of the available automotive systems, and I have basically infinite flexibility.
@Mike I'd agree with overhead extension reels or ceiling-mounted drop extensions...but a workshop handling steel that can drop and slice extension cords????
I think you should put some kind of air baffle between the grill and the radiator + between the radiator and the fan. The air always goes the easiest way and that is around the rad. Every car has some kind of air baffle there.
Put simple rubber flaps on holes cut into the tight fitting shroud..so that at highway speed the fan shroud doesn't hold back the inrushing air through the grille...and the fan doesn't need to be on at all...but at low speed, the shroud makes the fan suck at all areas of the radiator...increasing the efficiency of both....
I love what you have done along the way, to your Jaguar, and I'm not sure if I should be making any 'constructive' comments. Along with all of the plumbing, for the Cooling System, I have noticed that you have used lots of Rubber Hose. The Rubber Hose will not be subjected to high temperatures (110 degrees C) - or even high pressures. But the Rubber Hose will be subject to attack from chemicals, shrinking around those Fastener Clips and more particularly the oxygen in the air will degrade / attack the rubber (cracking) over time. So - with this in mind, I was thinking that Rigid PVC Tube could do a similar job, and there is a variety of sizes - and also different Wall Thicknesses to handle the pressure (if needed). If PVC was used for transporting the Coolant, there would also be no metal clips that could leak around the rubber hose. All PVC pipes and tubes can be formed, and all PVC joints are completely sealed with the special PVC Glue. Aluminium Tube will also require a good Inhibitor, or the Coolant will eat through the aluminium wall thickness. I am thinking that (when the car has been completed, it may be difficult to access those leaking tubes and rubber hoses! PVC can be painted in Matt Black, and clipped to the car body for neatness. I just had to write about this, and gauge some reaction from your Fans. Greetings from Australia.
For fan speed many people use the electric volvo fans from volvo 200 700 and 900-series of cars. Cheap fans that can run in two speeds and have an external fan relay. On the fan relay you ground the inputs with an ecu or a two speed temp sensor. The double relay is built to make it that makes it impossible to run both high and low speed at the same time. Popular in many car builds where you want to change from belt driven fan to a high performance fan for a very low price.
Interesting rather than "obstrusive". The coolant pipe in the greenhouse pipe would be a handy thing for hanging a jacket or perhaps a curtain (drapes), and posh British greenhouses do have pipes for heating running throught them.
Just appeasing the algorithm. My 2 cents, I would have put one bigger pump upstream of the split instead of two downstream. You could then put a valve on each line downstream and dial in until you get the flow you want/ get fancy and have a temperature sensor on the outlet that alters the valve position. This will remove the need for two pumps and prevent them from fighting/hunting for coolant. Oh actually put temperature sensors on the outlet (return legs) and have them vary pump speed based on temperature. Can you have too much cooling? If not just ignore everything I have said. I haven’t finished watching the video just throwing words at my screen. Keep up the build, great job.
Check out the Derale PWM dual fan controller. You might be able to tie one leg to your fan and split off the other leg to your pumps for a more robust solution than the Arduino.
So my favourite car build channels at the moment are: Superfastmatt - Jag EV Project Binky Mini bad obsession Motorsport Edd China workshop Ferrari 308 Honda K24 swap - StanceWorks MacroMachines Bobtail build Any tips on any other build build channels that are worth watching? The quality on the above 5 are all excellent if anyone reading this hasn't watched any of them.
Awesome job, this is my favorite channel. I'm and electrical engineer but when I went to school we were still studying electron tubes, really impressed with your knowledge. 👍👍👍
For a fan controller consider the 4.0 jeep fan controller pn RY-330K , i think dorman sells one with a pigtail as Dorman 902-303. You'll need a controller but you could realistically control several things with one microcontroller and THEN add canbus if you want to leverage anything from the tesla's network
Great to hear you are wise & humble enough to listen to reason. There are many with details we are not aware, though you may need to sift through & verify details. Thanls... Keep up the informative material. ✔❤👍
Found your channel yesterday, watched a couple random videos, neat stuff. Here I am the next day at the end of a 20-video-long build playlist, whoops... Anyway, neat stuff, keep it up! Gives me something to aspire to as a freshly minted mechE with only a year or two of grime on me.
That is perfect logic. If you have to deal with a thing once, you work around it. If you have to deal with it twice, you move the damn bench already :D
excellent - good brain on your shoulders. Fairly rare these days. I hope someone doesn't find your site and try to WOKE YOU UP....if they try just throw a wrench at them.
Thank you for giving the metric equivalents to those silly fraction thingies. I look forward to the day when the USA realises that it has its head on back to front and adopts the system used by the other 96% of the world's population. Brilliant project by the way.
You can't sleep the problems of a project so well well I got to get this done but to get this done I have to re-engineer the garage so I can get the cooling system done. My simple interior insulation project is on day 3 or 4 and I lot count of how many times I vacuumed the floor boards but I'm currently waiting for self etching paint to dry. Organizing my truck tools, replacing a bad rear speaker.... This all started over condensation in my jute pad... At some point I'll get back to the solar project I have all the parts for....
This episode I spot on for my project Matt. Thank you. I'm using an electric pump on my ducati supermono replica and want to control the speed of flow. Can I do this with simple bosch pumps as found on mercs for auxiliary heating systems or do they have to be a clever motor? I'm a spanner and lathe man so not so clever on the electronic front.
5:25 An Idea for the second Y-Fitting, mabe you could install two checkvalves before it, so the collant dosent move to the other circuit whilst the pumps have different speeds
Yeah, but with a closed check valve, i would have zero flow on one side which wouldn't allow me to measure temperature. I suppose i could install two flow meters and just check flow at different varying speeds. Then I could use that as part of the logic for different flow.
If circuit 1. pump is running hard and pulling coolant from circuit 2., circuit two will start to heat up, causing its pump to respond by running harder, thus fixing the flow issue. (I think?). If you do use check valves, the lack of flow in one circuit shouldn't stop you measuring temp on that side, as long as you measure near the heat source.
@@SuperfastMatt Could run a mechanical thermostat or repurposed electric heater core valve at each outlet. If you have a controlled bypass like a car thermostat you can put the temp probe after or just put the probe closer to the source. That will limit backflow from the hotter to the cooler system. With the open wye you might heat things you don't want to.
For 20 odd years I have been saying that auto manufacturers need to use the excess heat from the exhaust to run air conditioning, the same way that a gas fridge works. I guess it takes an innovative company like Tesla to work that out. I also think that a small heat exchange cooler would be a good way to cool the air coming from turbos in an intercooler. An integrated heat exchange and turbo is what I think would be a good idea.
Might've been faster to install another outlet or circuit in the garage. :) This is really awesome work - ignore the comments from all of those that actually know where their 10mm sockets are.
You might want consider a fan shroud to prevent air to go around the radiator. This improves cooling and you might be able to switch the fan off while driving on the highway. Fairly cheap temp switches exist that would fit your operating temp but installing a proper sensor is a better way and the rest is just coding.
A large fan shroud with simple rubber check valves (flaps)around the perimeter... so at low speeds the rubber check valves are closed allowing the fans to work efficiently and pull air in from all over the radiator....and at speed, the check flaps open from the rush of air coming in the grille and through the radiator so the "tight" shroud does not impede air flow...and the fan does not need to run at all...
It's always tempting to weld unique fittings to an aftermarket radiator (I have one on my classic car). BUT, the radiator is probably the most vulnerable part of the drivetrain. If a deer runs out in front of you, or a garbage truck reverses into you, you're in trouble. If you had simply made an adapter for the existing rad, then you could simply organise an immediate replacement, even 200 miles from home. With the custom made fitting on your rad, you'll probably end up coming back home on a very expensive tow truck. Alternatively, you could make an adapter that fits the original rad fitting and simply keep in the glovebox. That way you can forget about this tiresome issue.
Great video; the Arduino system looks very interesting. I think you mentioned that this chip will monitor temp and adjust potentiometer-driven fan speed; how do you know when the Arduino system fails? I guess the water pumps just switch to full speed and signal you that way? Also, will you have water temps on your dash?
I will have the Arduino turn OFF a red LED through a relay or something, so if the LED is on, then I know the Arduino code isn't running. I should also be able to hear the pumps running at full blast.
It's just a temporary set up for now. I'm sure he'll upgrade with temp sensors and a dummy light on the dash... likely have temp gauges on the dash too. If it fails, it will be plenty obvious.
@@SuperfastMatt Not that you don't have enough on your hands, but you are making me wonder how much of your car is going to be accessible via Bluetooth ;)
Better to have a blinking "heartbeat" indicator, as is common in industrial controllers. With the configuration you mentioned, if the code crashes once the LED is switched off, you won't know. Also, you can drive a small indicator LED straight off a digital pin.
"All hail the algorithm" and "Temporary solutions are the most permanent" on a shirt with nice SuperFast Matt graphics would be something I would buy to support and wear for inspiration!
Same here... would really like some merch like that.
I would buy it!
This could be a temporary merch solution
Yep, same.
Soon
I'm people, and I'm impressed. But still, all hail the algorithm.
How do you get to be a plural person? Is your real name Zaphod Beeblebrox?
@@SubTroppo Are we at The Restaurant at the End of the Universe????
@@justchillinout2002 More like the Confederacy of Dunces end of the universe.
hail the algorithm.
The best day of the week is when Matt uploads
"Temporary solutions are the most permanent".
Truer words have never been spoken!
For reals. Once pulled an access panel off a plane built in 71, on the back it said, "Temp. RR nxt PMI Mar86" (Temporary. Remove and replace next planned maintenance interval of March 1986). We looked it over, everything was fine, we did what the last 24 PMI crews had done; checks good reinstall.
I'm a pool guy, so I'm familiar with hydraulics. Running pumps in parallel the way you have it MAY cause issues with the flow rates, and potentially even the flow direction, IF the pumps are run at different speeds. If I understand your intentions with the system, they will be, correct? I THINK the effluent side configuration will be OK, but I could see issues with influent side if the pump speeds are running at very different speeds. The pump running at the higher speed could cause the flow through the lower speed pump to stall, or even reverse (not likely unless the pump is shut down completely). In the pool industry, we would employ one-way or pressure differential valves to prevent issues like that. Running the influent and effluent plumbing into common plenums will often resolve the issue as well. Running the influent side of the tow pumps to the lower radiator end cap with separate lines would likely resolve any potential issues. It's also possible it will be completely fine the way it is, lol. Just wanted to share my experience in case you do run into issues later.
This Dude...^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I wonder if this might be different in a pressurised system?
I've got no idea, I'm just speculating, pools generally don't have the reservoir and lines under pressure. Though then again this might not be under the same pressures seen in a vehicle cooling system
@@GingerNingerGames The pool itself is the reservoir. When in operation, all of the lines are either under pressure, or vacuum. They are not identical systems, but have common hydraulic design elements.
I read "I'm a pooR guy" and I kept wondering why being broke made you competent with hydraulics.
Then I read better.
@@Heidegaff 🤣
I really appreciate the thesis and execution of this channel.
Only complaint is that there's one video a week! Format and length are perfect though so dont want to mess that up
Hello Matt. About the leaks. When i used to work at the Saab factory in Sweden we also had problems with leaks in the cooling system. It happend when you put the clamp to close to the end of the hoose. The solution was to put the clamp no closer than 5mm to the end. Now days hooses comes with the clamp glued in the correct position. Did notice that some of your clamp was very close to the end of the hoose.
Thanks for great content. John
This has honestly become my favorite youtube channel. It's a great combination of informative and entertaining. You're killin it Matt, stay golden.
I have been binging Matt for the past few weeks now and I have not been able to stop watching, dry humor mixed with oh yeah here's where I failed is just stupid funny
Can I just express how great it is that your garage looks like an actual, completely normal, garage. Not a polished studio for perfect RUclips shots.
I’m glad you like it because I’m definitely not going to clean it up any more than this.
10:03 didn't know Arduino ran Android code haha. Good stuff man, these videos are awesome
Wondered about that myself. On the other hand, the code to do what Matt is doing is pretty darn trivial.
@@stevejohnson1685 PWN should be in every hardware hackers tool kit but writing from scratch shouldn't be too cumbersome. Even naively its just totalTime = onTime + offTime. So within totalTime the just needs to be a timing mechanism to set a pin as high
What do you mean by "Android code"? This is C.
@@user2C47 Matt calls it "android code" at one point.
From what I've seen, either he misspoke or he's making Data from Star Trek. I'm not sure.
Yeah, hail the algorithm indeed, it's a great project, getting an old car back on the road
How does this guy not have more subscribers? This is one of the best channels on youtube!
For a cooling fan... I think you could nab one from a VW made in the last 10 years or so. Most take a PWM input to control speed, then you don't need an external fan controller. Usually they have 2 fans, and the controller is built into the larger fan.
"swaping the entire garage? No!" hilarious :D
Greetings from Germany
Great job Matt! You lost me at "I had to write some code", but your ability to work through complex issues while explaining your processes to those with lesser skills is what makes this channel great! Also your video production is first class.
also, writing android code and running it on an arduino nano clone is a feat of it's own(around the 10m mark)
You moving the Jag makes me remember my uncles proverb "annoyance is a better motivator then pain, or people wouldn't endure pain to fix a annoyance"
Matt the term you are looking for is Yak Shaving. Editing the garage, for example. Thanks for bringing us along.
I love the dry humor. I'll keep coming back.
How come you don't have a million subs?
Please never change your narration style :)
Speaking English?
@@calholli yes English. Style refers to how it's presented
Every episode I think I have everything all planned out for my ev conversion
And then matt comes in with 5 things I hadn't even considered to pay attention to
Totally love this channel. Just keeps on getting better and better! Love the humour, love the build. Nice work, mate!
You can't nerd-out harder than this.... :) Nice work.
love this channel - it's the best
Agreed, surprised there's only 89k subs.
@@ka24det we need to share it more!
Probably been stated 300 times but the uneven flow thru the batteries could be helped by a reverse return system. Feed water into one side of the manifold. Then the first supply port goes to the last return port, etc
THE JAG IS COMING A LONG BEAUTIFULLY MY DUDE! IM GLUED TO THE SCREEN EVERY EPISODE!
Just discovered this channel. I binged the Jag series over the last 2 days. I love your pragmatic approach and look forward to seeing the car on the road...running under its own power. 😁
You are so awesome. You have captured the way the inside of my brain works. Most days its like a squirrel on massive dose of caffeine!
FYI you can get temperature sensors that work at any temperature. It might not be for an "automotive application" but if your temperature is below 212 degrees you won't be dealing with any great pressures you will just be moving the flow. You can basically just tig a bung on a tube and add it in line.
Hey Matt, I love these videos. I recently saw the guys at Hoonigan do something smart to get a good bead on an aluminium coolant line. They literally welded a small bead on the edge. They said that they had been doing it for years and they build cars with insane power and cooling systems. You already have the tools to make the beads so probably not a tip as useful for you. But still worth mentioning.
Matt I extremely apreciate you uploading so regularly. You're quite the inspiration for future projects!
Restricted pub opening hours in the UK when I started boozing in the mid-1970's were a temporary measure that had started SIXTY YEARS BEFORE at the start of the 1914-1918 war. I recall standing in a pub in Aberdeen Scotland at 10 pm with a drink in hand and being confronted by a member of the bar staff who shouted "get out" in my face. In England you had another half an hour to "drink-up" (luxury). Here in Australia there are still memories of "the six-o-clock swill".
Ditto New Zealand....
though we have moved on from the sawdust on the bar floor...
at the end of the night (6pm) the sodden sawdust was shoveled out the bar door...floor clean!
As always, the humor is just great!, it wouldn't be same without it.
Thank you sooooo much for working on the garage. That was my favorite part. All hail the "Al Gore" rhythm.
A ten second montage of cleaning a garage for a gag, you’re a champ
All hail the algorithm indeed. Been watching for a while and this has become a fav channel of mine
I think I speak on the Algorithm’s behalf when I say we are all anxious to see you driving this! Great presentation, as always, and I appreciate the insights into the whys of your decisions.
All hail the mighty algorithm! Also, neat idea with the arduino. I probably would have gone crazy using a 555 timer or something like that for the pwm signal.
Awesome build... Next system need to be 5 part series with only one about the car and the other four about random knowledge and garage organization/rewiring. 😀
Your hose/tube/bends solution is what all of us do on these projects :) Somehow I feel my 30 years of projects are validated by your videos lol. (PS, I like the Oetiker clamps too)
I love those Arduino nano every boards. Mostly because they play nice at 14ish volts.. I'm using it as a GPS speedometer and engine temperature gauge in my 1968 C20 Chevy..
Nice! I was worried that they are not rated for an automotive environment, but I think I'm just going to have redundant systems. It'll still cost a small fraction of the available automotive systems, and I have basically infinite flexibility.
@@SuperfastMatt a small heat sink for a raspberry pi seems to work fine for mine, I live in northern Utah where it gets pretty toasty..
@@SuperfastMatt could just pot the whole thing in Scotchweld once you get your wiring sorted to cut down on vibe and moisture related failures.
Really enjoy your vids. Especially your sense of humor and most importantly I always learn something from your vids. Thanks
If the welder location woes continue, you can buy extension cords with the correct plugs that are rated to 50 amps. They're usually used for RVs iirc.
I am definitely gonna make it a point to put 240 volt outlets on both sides of my shop when i start renovation. Thank you for bringing it up!
@Mike you aint wrong, but I'd rather just have another outlet since the walls are already down to studs, not alot of extra work.
@Mike
I'd agree with overhead extension reels or ceiling-mounted drop extensions...but a workshop handling steel that can drop and slice extension cords????
*SFM* On a serious progress Jag... with your electromod! Props
"Functional cooling system on the (SuperfastMatt's) Jag".
That's what I've been waiting for!
I think you should put some kind of air baffle between the grill and the radiator + between the radiator and the fan. The air always goes the easiest way and that is around the rad. Every car has some kind of air baffle there.
Yes, fan shrouds exist for a reason.
@@averyw.3939 yes I was searching for this word😂
Put simple rubber flaps on holes cut into the tight fitting shroud..so that at highway speed the fan shroud doesn't hold back the inrushing air through the grille...and the fan doesn't need to be on at all...but at low speed, the shroud makes the fan suck at all areas of the radiator...increasing the efficiency of both....
I can't believe how much insanely incredible is just hidden away by the algorithm.
I love what you have done along the way, to your Jaguar, and I'm not sure if I should be making any 'constructive' comments. Along with all of the plumbing, for the Cooling System, I have noticed that you have used lots of Rubber Hose. The Rubber Hose will not be subjected to high temperatures (110 degrees C) - or even high pressures. But the Rubber Hose will be subject to attack from chemicals, shrinking around those Fastener Clips and more particularly the oxygen in the air will degrade / attack the rubber (cracking) over time. So - with this in mind, I was thinking that Rigid PVC Tube could do a similar job, and there is a variety of sizes - and also different Wall Thicknesses to handle the pressure (if needed). If PVC was used for transporting the Coolant, there would also be no metal clips that could leak around the rubber hose. All PVC pipes and tubes can be formed, and all PVC joints are completely sealed with the special PVC Glue. Aluminium Tube will also require a good Inhibitor, or the Coolant will eat through the aluminium wall thickness. I am thinking that (when the car has been completed, it may be difficult to access those leaking tubes and rubber hoses! PVC can be painted in Matt Black, and clipped to the car body for neatness. I just had to write about this, and gauge some reaction from your Fans. Greetings from Australia.
For fan speed many people use the electric volvo fans from volvo 200 700 and 900-series of cars. Cheap fans that can run in two speeds and have an external fan relay. On the fan relay you ground the inputs with an ecu or a two speed temp sensor. The double relay is built to make it that makes it impossible to run both high and low speed at the same time. Popular in many car builds where you want to change from belt driven fan to a high performance fan for a very low price.
Interesting rather than "obstrusive". The coolant pipe in the greenhouse pipe would be a handy thing for hanging a jacket or perhaps a curtain (drapes), and posh British greenhouses do have pipes for heating running throught them.
Glory to the algorithm, may it bless you with monetization. Gloriam Omnissiah.
Great video for a great project. Can't wait for the next step.
Just appeasing the algorithm. My 2 cents, I would have put one bigger pump upstream of the split instead of two downstream. You could then put a valve on each line downstream and dial in until you get the flow you want/ get fancy and have a temperature sensor on the outlet that alters the valve position. This will remove the need for two pumps and prevent them from fighting/hunting for coolant. Oh actually put temperature sensors on the outlet (return legs) and have them vary pump speed based on temperature. Can you have too much cooling? If not just ignore everything I have said. I haven’t finished watching the video just throwing words at my screen. Keep up the build, great job.
This right here. If you consider a scenario where one of the two pumps is off, the other may end up back-feeding from the other pump.
@@andrewshoe6832
Check valves?
The diode of the waterways....
Check out the Derale PWM dual fan controller. You might be able to tie one leg to your fan and split off the other leg to your pumps for a more robust solution than the Arduino.
Commenting for the algorithm. And because this project is so incredible. Keep it up!
So my favourite car build channels at the moment are:
Superfastmatt - Jag EV
Project Binky Mini bad obsession Motorsport
Edd China workshop
Ferrari 308 Honda K24 swap - StanceWorks
MacroMachines Bobtail build
Any tips on any other build build channels that are worth watching?
The quality on the above 5 are all excellent if anyone reading this hasn't watched any of them.
Nice update. Did a gang of work in a relatively short time
From those of us who aren't currently able to do a project like this- thank you!
Awesome job, this is my favorite channel. I'm and electrical engineer but when I went to school we were still studying electron tubes, really impressed with your knowledge. 👍👍👍
All hail the algorithm.
.... and what all the other appreciators of your channel said, I second.
Do you have mixed metals in your system? Is that a corrosion problem? Great videos!
For a fan controller consider the 4.0 jeep fan controller pn RY-330K , i think dorman sells one with a pigtail as Dorman 902-303. You'll need a controller but you could realistically control several things with one microcontroller and THEN add canbus if you want to leverage anything from the tesla's network
I jumped the gun on part of this comment :)
Great to hear you are wise & humble enough to listen to reason. There are many with details we are not aware, though you may need to sift through & verify details. Thanls... Keep up the informative material. ✔❤👍
Thanks!
Found your channel yesterday, watched a couple random videos, neat stuff. Here I am the next day at the end of a 20-video-long build playlist, whoops...
Anyway, neat stuff, keep it up! Gives me something to aspire to as a freshly minted mechE with only a year or two of grime on me.
05:50 Yes, please! Me too! I need one for one of my motorbike projects, .....
All hail the algorithm!
I'm so excited to see this thing driving!
This satisfied the car nerd in me. Love Teslas and fat fender cars.
I feel so much cooler now that I see a cooling system!
this channel is going to grow big time. Very nice video again.
That is perfect logic. If you have to deal with a thing once, you work around it. If you have to deal with it twice, you move the damn bench already :D
3:55 true, mounted my 2 pound cpu cooler in my motherboard using zipties, still there after a year.
Nice!!!! I would recommend going with the "tight seal" style pinch clamp next time. Are you going put a roll cage and bring it to Bonneville?!?!?!
Sure, but then he would only have to do it once. And as we all know, it ain't done right until it's done twice.
@@litvi3460 😁😁😁
excellent - good brain on your shoulders. Fairly rare these days. I hope someone doesn't find your site and try to WOKE YOU UP....if they try just throw a wrench at them.
British Matt is back! ❤️
Yeah Boy! Another nice episode.. W. Edwards Deming, “Without data, you're just another person with an opinion.”
Thank you for giving the metric equivalents to those silly fraction thingies. I look forward to the day when the USA realises that it has its head on back to front and adopts the system used by the other 96% of the world's population. Brilliant project by the way.
Nice design for the steering wheel
You can't sleep the problems of a project so well well I got to get this done but to get this done I have to re-engineer the garage so I can get the cooling system done.
My simple interior insulation project is on day 3 or 4 and I lot count of how many times I vacuumed the floor boards but I'm currently waiting for self etching paint to dry. Organizing my truck tools, replacing a bad rear speaker.... This all started over condensation in my jute pad...
At some point I'll get back to the solar project I have all the parts for....
Love your sense of humor!!
Oh, geeze, just found your content and you sound just like me. I am the exact same way, rearranging the garage, check, that's me too lol
Just found this channel. Loving it!!
You smashed it again; you're the best
Another great entertaining video. I so want to see the Jag on the road.
Great video Matt. I'm really enjoying this build.
LOL Would have been much easier to add another Electrical Socket on the other side. I love your Videos and Humor!
This episode I spot on for my project Matt. Thank you. I'm using an electric pump on my ducati supermono replica and want to control the speed of flow. Can I do this with simple bosch pumps as found on mercs for auxiliary heating systems or do they have to be a clever motor? I'm a spanner and lathe man so not so clever on the electronic front.
5:25 An Idea for the second Y-Fitting, mabe you could install two checkvalves before it, so the collant dosent move to the other circuit whilst the pumps have different speeds
Yeah, but with a closed check valve, i would have zero flow on one side which wouldn't allow me to measure temperature. I suppose i could install two flow meters and just check flow at different varying speeds. Then I could use that as part of the logic for different flow.
If circuit 1. pump is running hard and pulling coolant from circuit 2., circuit two will start to heat up, causing its pump to respond by running harder, thus fixing the flow issue. (I think?).
If you do use check valves, the lack of flow in one circuit shouldn't stop you measuring temp on that side, as long as you measure near the heat source.
@@SuperfastMatt Could run a mechanical thermostat or repurposed electric heater core valve at each outlet. If you have a controlled bypass like a car thermostat you can put the temp probe after or just put the probe closer to the source. That will limit backflow from the hotter to the cooler system. With the open wye you might heat things you don't want to.
Like the monocle Matt 🧐😆 Another great episode - thanks…
You really should put a fan shroud on the fan/radiator. I'd recommend a cookie sheet you don't mind cutting a big hole for the fan in
For 20 odd years I have been saying that auto manufacturers need to use the excess heat from the exhaust to run air conditioning, the same way that a gas fridge works.
I guess it takes an innovative company like Tesla to work that out.
I also think that a small heat exchange cooler would be a good way to cool the air coming from turbos in an intercooler. An integrated heat exchange and turbo is what I think would be a good idea.
Might've been faster to install another outlet or circuit in the garage. :) This is really awesome work - ignore the comments from all of those that actually know where their 10mm sockets are.
You might want consider a fan shroud to prevent air to go around the radiator.
This improves cooling and you might be able to switch the fan off while driving on the highway.
Fairly cheap temp switches exist that would fit your operating temp but installing a proper sensor is a better way and the rest is just coding.
A large fan shroud with simple rubber check valves (flaps)around the perimeter...
so at low speeds the rubber check valves are closed allowing the fans to work efficiently and pull air in from all over the radiator....and at speed, the check flaps open from the rush of air coming in the grille and through the radiator so the "tight" shroud does not impede air flow...and the fan does not need to run at all...
unrated channel all hail the algorithm.
Like a true engineer work on all the things at once
It's always tempting to weld unique fittings to an aftermarket radiator (I have one on my classic car). BUT, the radiator is probably the most vulnerable part of the drivetrain. If a deer runs out in front of you, or a garbage truck reverses into you, you're in trouble. If you had simply made an adapter for the existing rad, then you could simply organise an immediate replacement, even 200 miles from home. With the custom made fitting on your rad, you'll probably end up coming back home on a very expensive tow truck. Alternatively, you could make an adapter that fits the original rad fitting and simply keep in the glovebox. That way you can forget about this tiresome issue.
I did not know you had a Chevy Bolt? You can clearly see it under your porch starting at the 3:12 mark.
I think you're the first person I've seen who has used the Arduino Nano Every. How fancy!
Runs great on automotive electrical.
All hail the algorithm.
Nice update.
Its awesome that you gave out the code
Great video; the Arduino system looks very interesting. I think you mentioned that this chip will monitor temp and adjust potentiometer-driven fan speed; how do you know when the Arduino system fails? I guess the water pumps just switch to full speed and signal you that way? Also, will you have water temps on your dash?
I will have the Arduino turn OFF a red LED through a relay or something, so if the LED is on, then I know the Arduino code isn't running. I should also be able to hear the pumps running at full blast.
It's just a temporary set up for now. I'm sure he'll upgrade with temp sensors and a dummy light on the dash... likely have temp gauges on the dash too. If it fails, it will be plenty obvious.
@@SuperfastMatt Not that you don't have enough on your hands, but you are making me wonder how much of your car is going to be accessible via Bluetooth ;)
Better to have a blinking "heartbeat" indicator, as is common in industrial controllers. With the configuration you mentioned, if the code crashes once the LED is switched off, you won't know. Also, you can drive a small indicator LED straight off a digital pin.
@@SuperfastMatt You could put a temp sensor on that bleeder above the motor since the block is already there. Man I'm good, look at that idea