HPL Engine Cleaner vs. OIL CONSUMPTION | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 22
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2023
- Will High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner stop the oil consumption in the Corolla?
Music:
Funky Space Princess by Dyalla
Patience by Dyalla
Summer in NY by Dyalla
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers
Borescope: Depstech WF-25
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. 
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Entire oil-burning playlist:
ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
Previous video: ruclips.net/video/AIDT6I2toK8/видео.html
I am SO ready for the teardown
Right just rebuild it and you have an new car?? Last another 300-400 thousand miles
With teardown it is the end of trying to find best cheap solution for oil burning.
Maybe we should see first all commercial products efficiency?
I absolutely love the older manual Corollas. I wish Toyota would embrace the simplicity and dependability of the models that made them what they are today. Imagine how just having the availability of a simple, reliable car that people could afford could very well change the world.
I mean the gr new Corolla is only stick
Yep. I have an 03 I bought new with a 5 speed, 3 rotary HVAC controls that don't require taking eyes off the road, and well over a quarter million miles. So far that 1zz isn't burning oil. And I've driven it like I stole it from the beginning but never ran the oil low or for more than 5K miles.
Great videos. Here is my suggestion.
1- change the spark plug
2- Buy 2 gallons of Quaker state full synthetic 5w40 Euro version from wall mart
3- Buy a 8 cylinder restore additive which is 16 oz . shake it will. Add half of it to first gallon and the second part to the second gallon
4- shake the oil to mix with additive and change your oil with one glallon
5 - As you lose oil add it from the secong gallon. Every time shake your oil.
Check how many miles it will take too finish the second gallon. It should take over 4000 miles.
6- Never add any other additive during this process
7- Always measure your oil in cold engine when you have not used your car for it least 3 hours.
8- measuring oil consumption every 300 miles will give you false readings
9- as I said you can top it off when you see oil level has dropped. The only measurement that we are interested in the reading after oil change and when the secong gallon is finished.
Thanks for the suggestion 👍🏻
has that worked for u
T e spark plugs always look dirty and have carbon on them, like the injectors are allowing too much fuel by. It's like it is gas washing the walls and building up carbon. I would run some injector cleaner in the gas and then after a tankful of gas put in new spark plugs maybe a heat range hotter to keep them cleaner. If you did a spark plug chop with new plugs in a fully warmed up engine it would help "tune " the car. Look up sparkplug chops and reading spark plugs online.
Oh, Dave-you’re such a tease! We want to see the cylinder bore cross-hatching now! Please spare us another road-trip! 😂
Thank you for update. I waited so long for this part, I hope the next one will be soon.
Thanks for the interest! ... If I could afford to just drive this thing around all day, I would, and then I'd be able to really crank out the experiments quickly. -- Maybe one day!
This is coming from someone with 5+decades automotive experience,At this point you have done all you can go & it needs a complete rebuild inc a rebore & new pistons to ensure good ring seal & a head rebuild too.
Happy motoring.
What if we find perfect cross-hatching from top to bottom in all of the cylinders? We're going to do a full scope of the cylinder walls in the next video.
I get so excited when I see your videos pop up!
Much appreciated!
Thank you Dave. I am looking forward to seeing the new endoscope. I have subscribed to your channel long time ago but somehow I do not receive your updated videos. I am glad I notice this one in RUclips.
Glad you're here! ... I think there's something you can click the bell on my channel to make sure you're getting new video notifications (if you have RUclips notifications turned on).
I have started using 5w-20 I’m my Corolla because of oil consumption. The 5w-20 has dramatically helped. I can make it to 3000 miles before it gets to the add mark now.
I might have said it before, but I really like this idea. I think going thinner is an interesting idea. If the oil drain back holes are only partially clogged, it seems the thinner oil would be able to drain easier, and perhaps eventually clean the holes back out. ... This is one of the reasons I haven't tried thicker oil to "fix" the problem. Thanks for the comment, Brian!
is there a downside to using 5w-20?
@@neal8968 Higher numbers in theory offer a thicker oil film, thus more protection. Lower weights achieve a thinner film and thus less friction but also less protection. 5w30 is pretty much in the middle for modern engines (basically since the 80s as they are both digitally manufactured and controlled). The newest go for thinner oils almost solely to meet environmental figures, which mainly come from the smaller consumption achieved.
😳 , thought you left, glad to see you back. Can’t wait for the next one…
Yeah, I just saw your comment on the last video ... You're comment is much appreciated!
I was just thinking that it could be the cylinder walls. Which is what happens when the rings get stuck. It causes wear on the walls, which causes oil to not be scraped properly, even if they do get unstuck. It's the only thing I can think of at this point. The sidewall camera will definitely show if this is the case.
Those places you visited looked interesting. I love historical sights. We don't have too many of those out here in MT. But we do get hail like that once every 5 years or so. Once every 10 years or so, we get up to tennis ball size. My 99 Camry got hit in one of these storms. It broke both tail lights, and made the whole car look like a literal golf ball with all of the dents. Other than that, it's been a great car.
It's coming from top to down, when you see at borescoping. I believe it's the head gasket leaking the oil gallery, but Dave isn't wanting to see it.
Toyota had trouble with oil burning for a few years. You might try 10W30 to see if that helps especially in the summer months possibly diesel 10W30 which is higher in detergents. I ran motorcraft diesel in my 1999 Camery with no I'll effects for.
Yikes. I can only imagine getting hit with that size of hail. 😨
Oh ye of little faith ;-)
Thats why i want him to eventually try Engine restore i think if that it is the case it would show some improvement. Its stopped smoking on an old worn out El Camino for me.
Oh this will be interesting to see! So far HPL is the only thing that has made a little improvement for me so far. Looking forward to see if it continues to improve or not.
Love this series!!!
need to comment also on the makita ratchet-- what a game changer that was for me to acquire! LOVE this tool.
I’m watching your channel. Great videos. Greetings from LA, California.
Awesome! Thank you Ceasar! Greetings to you from the other SC ;-)
Another entertaining video Dave, really do think Toyota should sponsor you in some way for your efforts. Looking forward to find out what if any additional product helps. B12 so far worked but seems to be going backwards.
Toyota is a $235B dollar company. I doubt they'd start sponsoring youtubers
Why would Toyota want to show a worn out Toyota that burns oil...
@@invinoveritas8704 especially one that was notoriously worn out from factory and is less than 200,000 mi
Thanks for the update video, did you try carburetor /injector cleaner and or thinner to soak the pistons (drain oil afterwards) it did help a lot on my car. But i think i have a valve stem seal problem on 1 cylinder
just stumbled on this video, i drilled my piston holes larger and added 2 more on each piston, 1zz. seemed to work fine.
Glad it worked. Did you put the original rings back in?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY nah, this was my 2nd 1zz rebuild, first one was fe, second was an fed.
Both times I rebuilt I replaced all of the rings, the last time on the fed was about a year ago, rebuilt the head but used the same valves, pistons and rods, but replaced the rings. Also did the proper crosshatching on the cylinders. The updated pistons you can buy have something like 10 large oil return holes(which we did put in my friends car when he was rebuilding) but I wanted to save money and have an excuse to buy a drillpress to put a few more holes in mine. It seems to have slowed the oil consumption to a very reasonable amount. The motor is for my mr2 and before 2003 the motors burned about a quart every 700~ miles before they revised it a little in 2003+.
I attempted to fight the oil burning a little but the easiest solution is just take a few days to pull the motor out and replace the valve seat rubber and pistons, it's about 100-200$ since you need to replace at minimum the stretch bolts holding the head on. Just be sure to get the pistons with the larger oil return holes. I have no idea what toyota was thinking with the 4 tiny ones on each piston.
That oil isn't a "#7", although that's a reasonable interpretation of the label. The "No VII" actually means "no viscosity index improvers" which are additives to-- you guessed it-- improve the viscosity index. VIIs are added to thin oil to thicken it up to whatever viscosity spec. However, they aren't shear stable and a 5W-30 tends to shear down closer to a light 20wt or such over time if it has a lot of VIIs.
I wonder if the shearing doesn't also make an oil more prone to consumption and deposits.
Great video, Dave, thank you!
Not very eventful, but what else should you film, when all you had to do is put the thing in the crankcase and drive lol.
Slowly but surely it seems like chemicals, other then something radical and strong, are not helping anymore. I'll keep repeating myself, but piston soak with Berryman's cleaner solved my oil burning completely! With one treatment.
Nevertheless, your videos are very educational and inspiring! I mean, it helped ME immensely, hopefully that's the case with other people too. Keep up the good work sir. Will be looking forwards to seeing the next one! Peace!
Thanks :-) and yeah, I'm never sure what to put in them. I think some folks want me to just pop in and say, "I tried this, and it didn't work." And I can understand that if they're scouring youtube for an immediate solution. ... I'm trying to make them a little more like educational shows I enjoyed watching as a kid.
great content!
Much appreciated!
I was looking forward to this. I put in a bottle of Ceratec in my ‘12 Scion XB with the 2AZFE oil burner and so far it seems to be helping my oil burning 💯
Awesome. Please keep us posted, Jeremy!
Are you sure thats because of the Ceratec and not a recent oil change with a different oil perhaps?
I have seen lab analysis sheets and reports of the Ceratec and it really isn't a cleaner. I have not run tests on it myself though.
Essentially is consists of:
- organic Molybdenum Mo-DTC
- micronized hexagonal boron nitride
- a couple ounces of Group III or IV base oil in which the moly is dissolved and the boron particles are suspended
Neat product for sure and it can massively reduce friction and noise depending on your engine but there are better products out there like Archoil 9200 V2. That stuff is the bomb man its super concentrated and they really packed everything in there you could ever want.
@@alouisschafer7212 Not group IV, because of its poor solvency to do that. I believr its group II
@@alouisschafer7212 I’m not convinced yet either… I’m not using it as a cleaner. I’m using it as a protectant / slash to cling to all the metal parts and protect them (seal and protect around and between pistons and rings) I’ve gone 1,000 miles and only added a little over half a quart. Not great, but better than it was.
RUclips doesn’t show me the video you posted until now 💔 I have been waiting for this video thank you
What? Oh no. Did you click the bell? Thanks for hanging in there. 😊
I have a 2009 Scion with the infamous 2AZ-FE (277k miles). Burns a quart every 250 - 275 miles. I’ve tried many experiments and products just like you but I just haven’t documented. I thought I was the only one out there trying different chemicals like a madman haha!
I’m currently experimenting with diesel fuel and diesel oils. I did a 6 hour diesel piston soak just this past weekend and it smoked like crazy! Way more than when I did a Seafoam and MMO soak.
I’m thinking of filling the crankcase with enough diesel for it to reach the oil rings on the pistons and letting that soak for 24 hrs but I haven’t found any info on anyone doing that. Essentially a piston soak from the bottom side of the piston rather than the top. Diesel is the only thing “cheap” enough to do that with because I’ll probably need like 3 gallons I’m guessing. What are your thoughts Dave?
Sounds like a great experiment. If you try it, please let us know how it goes!
Hi Dave. I know how we get sorted stuck oil rings in 90's. Diesel and cheap oil 50:50 mix and run the engine for 10min. Pour diesel in spark plug hole and keep it overnight. Drain all out and fill with cheap fresh oil. Drain cheap oil and fill with full synth oil.
That should be included as last try after all commercial products.
I suppose diesel may help because of viscosity and cleaning properties.
@@Milos-Stankovic that last try will probably do the job if cylinder walls are not warped
@@mr.t2585
Yes! But we ruin whole point.
Testing all commercial products.
We now see that majority of commercial products do not help at all.
If all products are proven not to help much, and simple solution like you said solve problem, that is conclusion we need to see.
It's always interesting how the best video creators aren't out doing it for RUclips money or fame but some other purpose and documenting the journey.
... the money certainly helps, though ;-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Maybe you can try to dedicate this channel to testing commercial products?
Keep going with testing!
(keep that Toyota Corolla like gold mine)
Add every suggestions to your to do list.
With time your channel will be like Project Farm channel.
May God bless you and your family
@@Milos-Stankovic Thanks for the encouragement !!
Great video. Lovely large trees.I have watched all of your car videos and they have been very interesting.This is just my opinion .Since I think your rings and engine is very clean .I would now like to see you replace the oil with a heavier weight oil like 10w-40 and see the difference.Or higher. Just too see. All the best .Thank you ..
Thank you, and thanks for the suggestion! Seems like a ton of folks want me to try 10w40!
If somehow some way the HPL 5W-30 doesn't continue to show improvement then. HPL somethingW-40 will solve the issue because that would account for a "worn engine" like we have learned about engines since the 50s 60s and 70s..
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Higher viscosity oil cannot help to unstuck oil rings.
Keep going with testing products, and we all can see what is best solution.
At this point we don't want easy fix, but thoroughly testing all commercial products claims.
Keep good work.
P.S. It is obviously better solution to pour something through spark plugs hole, than to pour to oil.
I would like to try all commercial products first (put in oil).
And after you try all commercial products in oil, you finally change strategy:
Put directly in cylinders through spark plugs hole.
Please, clean first piston with Yamalube fuel cleaner, and than pour products to cylinder and crank with hand.
Thank you for your effort.
God bless
We all know vinegar is great at breaking loose rust and heavy carbon. I would love to see (2-3x) pour it in directly into the cylinders and allowing it to soak/drain, then oil change to see if it can unstick the piston rings.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve definitely considered vinegar.
Yay new video :D
I did some experimentation with a bunch of chemicals my self. For me anyways, it turns out that carbon is not the main cause of the oil control rings to stick, it was the build of sludge and gunk in the oil control rings that caused the rings to stick. I found that soaking the cylinders with "ZEP Industrial Purple Degreaser undiluted" for max 4hrs (this will oxidize the aluminum if left too long, it did not damage any steel parts and bearing (that I was able to observe) will prettry much destory any carbon on the piston and then soak the cylinders with "simple green Degreaser undiluted (simple green did not oxidize aluminum if removed less than 24hr) " for another 8hrs (may need refills). Next, push or remove any left over degreaser with leak down tester or vaccum, assume there are any left, then hose the clyinder with WD-40 or oil of your choosing. Lastely, change oil and filter and the oil burning should be reduced, assuming the walls of the cylinders is not scored. At first I did'nt even believe that Degreasers are more powerful than b-12, sea foam, marvel mystery oil, acetone, etc. Next I will be trying to improve this method by modifing a fuel injetor cleaning canister with fittings connecting to the compression tester hose so I can force solvents and cleaners through the cylinders and essentially push pressurized solvents through the oil drain holes behind the oil control rings, at TDC of course.
I'm really intrigued by the degreaser possibilities. I just think of how often I soak a frying pan (caked in burnt on grease and carbon) in a little dish detergent and water, then am able to wipe it clean with a finger. There's definitely something to that!!
16:50 possibly re torque the ticker to get a completely dry seal. A lot of times idling the engine at medium or high revs can cause a little bit of expansion/movement even in new seals.
Had the 1ZZ in my Rav4 rebuilt to get rid of the oil consumption. It began smoking at 4k rpm. Was definitely the rings, but the bearings had a bit of wear as well. Previous owner probably ran it low. It's not too expensive to have rebuilt.
Good video series. Also cool fast shot of the fj40 side! As far as the scope with the side camera. It is nice, but it is frustrating to use a scope that is attached to the screen. I think you will see what mean when you are trying to look in more complicated tight places.
Thanks! and good to know.
😮😮"Number 7!" Its "No VII or "No Viscosity Index Improvers"🤣🤣🤣Happy Birthday to me... 🎉Right.. yes, you added the AT 205!! If you had changed the oil, you would have lost whatever that is doing!! I sincerely hope it is balancing out.. you essentially have a "Running oil change" and I'm still hoping this is the silver bullet thatsolves this problem! I gotta say, we are pushing it right to the edge LOL!
Mine also might be burning some oil but, again.. decreasing consumption. We have different driving styles lol.
Doh!!! Shows what I know. Looked like number seven to me 🤦♂️
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 🤣🤣Hey man, no harm no foul LOL. I got a good laugh out of it and my exact thought was.. "OMG the oil board 🛢 is going to KILL me or rip me a new one because he called a product sponsor 'Number Seven' not "The absence of Viscosity Index Improvers'"🤣🤣🤣🤣... that oil is very, very resistant to oil burn-off and I'm using it in my own car just like you. I still feel like I'm noticing an improvement. I used to run 20-grade oils in application that called for 30... that's another HOT 🔥 topic of debate lol. All good though!
Again, you had the AT-205 in there, would have been a shame to lose that by changing ALL the oil.. is why I recommended what I did.. I'm almost scared to ask how it is all going? The Corolla has taken second place to other vehicles, this I know (I stay on the road too! I was in Atlanta a few days ago and I still drive super fast....) 🚗
Use the longer scope to check the bottom of the piston through the drain plug hole. Check to see if there is any carbon build up.
Can't wait! :D
I use 1 qt of Kerosene before every oil change and run (idle) the engine for 20 minutes. Works great ❗️
Super interesting videos ❗️Thanks for sharing ❗️
Thanks for the suggestion!
If cylinder walls have worn out, you better start trying heavier oil viscosities e.g. 15w40, 15w50 or even 10w60. But if the major oil consumption comes from the oil control rings this could make things worse.
In a pinch one time I bought Harley Davidson 70 wt oil and mixed it in w/ 50% STP. Befor that my engine used 1 qt oil every 30 miles, it slowed it to 1 qt in 200 miles. That was a truck w/ a 400 cid (6.6L) engine carrying a 12' slide in camper loaded for bear, pulling a utility trailer full of 4 Wheelers, generator & chainsaws. I also had to put non-fouler extensions on the spark plugs to get 500 miles without changing spark plugs. Only a fellow Deer hunter would understand why I ''had to" go to that extreme to make it to Deer camp. ben/ michigan
Well, we took apart a few of the Honda 2.4L CR-V engines which burned oil at similar rate as the Corolla. We subjected the pistons to soaking in combustion chamber cleaner, some other solvents and it did nothing. I think at this point there's nothing left other than pulling the pistons out and re-ringing. Maybe soaking in the GM Ring and Piston Cleaner as it wasn't tried yet, but I'm not optimistic it would work. I guess it was a great lesson and worth giving a try to see if there is something that could save this engine.
Actually one of the CR-V engines had a spectacular ending seizing up on the h-wy, as the side of the piston crown completely melted from the high temperature in the combustion chamber. We knew it's going to go, but we didn't anticipated melted piston ;)
Love the experiment with the Toyota. Dealing with a VW with the same issue. All the parameters matter that you have covered. I bet someone else has mentioned this, but here it goes: mileage matters, but time multiplied by RPMs matter more. If 100 minutes was spent at 2K RPM, it will be much different than 100 minutes at 4K RPM. How many times the pistons completed a cycle per 1000 miles does play a role. Oh. PS: use the new stuff: Any oil that is a higher viscosity of 40 and is rated ILSAC GF-6A with ASI SP. I'd bet a BBQ brisket here in Austin this will almost solve the consumption. Otherwise, it's time for a ring job and bore.
I've been following your journey with this Corolla, as I own a 2AZ-FE (also a well-known oil-burner). This video caused me to pause it, and go do a little reading on the HPL stuff. Unless I'm misunderstanding, you ended up with the HPL cleaner in for about 600mi. From what I've read, I think the HPL cleaner is recommended for a longer cleaning duration. I think the recommendation is more like 2-3k mi. (Now, over that time, with your level of oil consumption, I don't know how much cleaner would remain, but......)
Noted. Since I didn't change the oil, it could definitely still be helping. That, combined with the HPL oil, might actually make a difference.
I have viewed many of your videos and how much time does it take to rebuild engine as you are clearly taking a large amout of time to go through this exercise love your attention to details but how much time is it worth
His wife is going to be so happy when this series is finally over with. I will be sad though, lol.
I had a bad accident in a 97 Corolla in the rain, so I don’t drive little cars in the rain anymore. Car definitely gave its life to save mine. I had one scratch. But the car was beyond totaled. All airbags, axels gone, front end gone, most windows gone, etc. No abs and it hydroplaned with its little wheels. I’m not aware of a good tire in those little sizes. Most major tire manufacturers don’t even make those sizes. So I stay away now. I stick to my suvs and trucks that are in a size I can get high quality all terrains that have good water shedding.
Thanks for the input, Jonathan :-)
If you do change oil type or weight, it is not uncommon to see an increase in oil consumption as the detergents & whatever else is in the different brand oil "washes" away the oil and whatever chemicals that were in it off all engine parts of the oil you used to use. It can take up to three oil changes to see a difference. Every manufacturer has their own blend of 11 secret herbs & spices in their oils.
B12 worked.
Now you need to get a spray can of liquid overhaul and spray into the spark plug holes to let it install new piston rings.
I ran Techron in my 2006 Prius and did improve efficiency a little. Not sure about the oil seal rings. I also ran two fuel tanks worth being a bottle each tank in the 2013 Prius and that I think along with overfilling the Mobile 1 full synthetic 20,000 mile oil caused a gummy gunk mess so had to clean the Intake, replace the PCV Valve and clean up to the inside of the EGR Valve thus far. I almost thought I blew my head gasket, though with the two misfire at least incidents that finally threw two cylinder misfire codes, appears now that was only oil. I didn't notice coolant in the EGR and intake, seemed all like gas and oil from the misfires. Anyways, wondering if the Techron would help? Seems I'm losing less oil in the 2013, though that might be due to the PCV Valve changed.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not sure it would help unless I put the Techron in the oil, since I think it's the oil drain-back holes that are causing most of the problems.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
You can use Texaco fuel which include Techron.
I would like to see best fuel for clean piston without carbon building like you have after Yamalube.
You can add playlist for best fuel for cleaning carbon on piston.
Thank you, and keep up with new episodes.
Great work.
following here from Brazil
The new endoscope looks like it's going to be nice
Pretty excited about it. We haven't used it yet, I want any reactions to be genuine :-)
I like watching your content! I like seeing the results! You can't expect it not to have any blow by are using the oil if you start driving it like a racecar correct me if I'm wrong..... A kind of look like you would drive it a little bit hard.😊
Thanks a lot for this series of experiments. From this point, I would look back and return to what worked: Berryman. Checking the SDS, you see it contains a large part of xylene and acetone as well. I suppose these are the two working chemicals on burnt residues. I have a Mercedes 190e with a M102 engine that have blow-by and oil burning. I have ordered pure xylene to do a shock treatment. I am planning a 24h-sequence, repeated 4x, alternating pure xylene and pure acetone poured in the cylingers, every 6 hours. I'll drain the oil and let the pan open to drain the chemical. These chemical are nasty for rubber and polymers. I don't want them circulating in the oil circuit. I'll let you know the outcomes.
Thanks. Can’t wait to hear how it goes!
Do you have a ranking of the products you have used so far? I’m thinking berrymans and yamalube take the #1 and #2 spots?
That sounds about right, Joseph!
Here's what I've done the reduce the smoke on my project vehicle. I purchased a low mile jdm engine ~80k miles. All new seals before installing it, but it smoked Bad. This motor must have set for years. I tried seafoam, at the time it was the only additive I knew of to help clean internals. Didn't really help. Well the motor sat for another year and collected some rust inside one of the cylinders. I sanded it down as lightly as I could and prayed to the JDM Gawds. Anyway, it still smokes. Even though I saw the walls first hand, I was convinced the o rings were gone, because of the amount of oil usage. After watching your videos I decided to try cleaning the engine.
So this thing smokes like a train. You showed me the best product so far was berrymans b12. I talked to a few people and this is what I did. B12 in the cylinders. Like, a lot of it. Turned the motor by hand and put more in. Turned it again and put More in. Let it sit overnight. I really really wish I could remember what other additive I used but I put Something in the oil with MMO and half the can of berrrymans in the gas tank. It said run the engine like this for about 10- 20 minutes. I ran it like this for a month. No change. Finally performed the oil change. Now I'm convinced the rings are bad, so I bought the cheapest oil and a bottle of lucas. After the oil change the smoke is gone. Like 99% gone. It still uses a little bit of oil, I'm not sure how much but it's no longer embarrassing to drive around town.
So I just tried this method on my friends car. It sat for about a year in storage. He said it Didn't smoke before and now it was worse than mine before treatment. I did the berrymans in the cylinders, the tank and mmo in the oil. He ran the motor about 45 minutes then we changed the oil the next day(castrol and lucas). Now it does not smoke at idle, only when you get on it.
I think the secret is just running All your 'sworn by' additives together, all at once. Then lucas oil. Thanks so much for the help. Hope you get it right soon. Or not, so you can keep making videos! Thanks again.
How much Lucas did you put in? -- And I'm assuming you mean the stabilizer, right?
@DIY Dave both engines took 4 quarts so I only substituted 1 quart for lucas. That was something else I looked up, how much lucas oil can I use. I don't think this is a solution because the thicker oil doesn't really Fix anything. Just helps create a seal on older/failing parts.
DIY Dave did you consider at this point just perform an in-car overhaul, I believe it's possible those piston rings could be freed up just like new but your cylinder wall surfaces render that moot?
I did the in-car O/H on my 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup with 190,000 miles. The timing chain needed changing and a valve was bad, so i figured why not? And got a remanuf cylinder head for $350, plus a ring set for $25 plus a hone. After c arefully marking the rods for matching later I popped the pistons up and out (there was no ridge as often happens at the top of the cylinder, either). Soaked the pistons in acetone while I honed the bores to a good cross-hatch. Cleaned out the ring grooves - that really weren't even dirty enough to strictly need but, they were out anyway - and installed the new rings (ever so carefully staggering the ring gaps, precisely as the documentation with the rings package told me to do!). Clean the cyls about a thousand times w brake cleaner. Then ATF. Then degreaser. Then acetone. Then the paper towels came out completely white so I squirted oil on em, soaked the pistons in oil for good measure, and put the pistons back in the engine. The big end rod bearings were fine, no scoring or anything, they got coated with assembly lube and torqued. Then I finished with assembling the rest of the engine. (All of this took me 3 days.) The last step, Installed the distributor, remember those? And cranked the engine - no joy. Engine turns, no start! Sat there and thought for a minute... then the light bulb over my head blinked on and got out, unbolted the distributor and reinstalled it facing 180 from where it was. Turned the key, engine roared to life.
Very gratifying experience. that was in truth, very pleasant, to me.
Great story.
Needa get something like hot shots gasoline extreme and pull the sparkplugs and pour some in each cylinder and let it sit for a few days. If that doesnt work try Redline S1 or AmsOil PI.
What you want is a cleaner that has a lot of PEA and those do. Will need to probably do an oil change afterwards though as ive heard some people say PEA can thicken the oil. Not 100% sure on that though
Thanks for the suggestions, Shane!
Try some Lucas oil stabilizer with some conventional 5w30. I wouldn't recommend the Lucas for a healthy engine but since the engine is burning quite a bit of oil, it will slow it down alot. I'd bet that it will burn less oil by switching to a conventional 5w-30. I've owned a few high mileage trucks (200k-300k miles) over the years and most of the time, if they're burning oil..they always burn more synthetic oil than conventional oil.
Try Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator in the oil and Gasoline Extreme in the fuel as an experiment.
Have you tried BG engine flush the complete kit
i am on my 4th or 5th treatment of berryman b12 on my 2002 camry 2az-fe 275k miles, and found it is gradually reducing oil consumption, it was initially at worst burning 1 qt roughly every 1,000 miles, i also changed my habbit of doing oil change at 3,000 miles instead of 5,000. as it stand, one fresh oil change using 0w-40, dipstick from full to low last 2,600 miles, i am not going bother topping off oil, just simply do another oil change around 2,500 to 3000 miles instead. when i pulled out my spark plugs, the tips and the arc are mostly white, with a little bit of brown, i followed your direction while soaking piston, also rotated engine every interval. i seem to find success with b12.
Please do keep us posted! ... Berryman's is definitely the best so far, and I don't doubt repeated treatments might be the cure. Good info!
You need to try BG's dynamic engine restoration. 2 step de-sludging. It's supposedly industry only but many youtubers have tried it. Makes terrible, coked up engines look brand new inside.
That's on the list as the grand finale ... if nothing else works ... and if that doesn't work, we'll probably tear it down.
@FamilyFriendlyDIY yeah, I was trying to think of a last chance way to fix it without taking the head off. The only thing I could think of was to drop the pan and rig up a way to pump the solution directly through the inside of the oil return holes of the piston oil ring lands.
Like a parts washer set up. With a long tube attached to the fluid hose. Reach up into the inside of the piston to each hole. That you could catch and resumption the fluid.
Or, with the sump off. See if you could find something to temporarily seal the bottom of the piston to wall clearance. Then, poor your mixes through the spark plug hole. Leaving no option but for the oil rings to soak.
As a mechanic, by far the easiest, cheapest way would be to remove the head, pop the pistons out to clean/replace the oil rings. Make sure they're correctly gapped and reassemble with only the minimum of gaskets replaced.
Lots of effort but very little money.
Then SERVICE religiously.
With bad rings or worn cylinder. Using thick oil will only increase oil
usage. Thicker the oil, more get wiped into the piston top to be burnt. I
would go with a 5w-20 and see what you get. Thinner oil may also help
keep the rings from clogging up.
Dave, have you considered that your rings aren´t actually stuck? Just straight up tolerances between the rings and cylinder, or out of round cylinder. Maybe you should try the nano ceramic metal engine re metalizer type products like resurs, restore, and xado...
Yep, I've considered that. We'll probably be able to better determine that with the new scope next time. Thanks for the suggestions!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for the content!
Kia 1.6 GDI 2014 Hi oil consumption, used b12 chemtool soak over night then again , worked now getting 4000 miles for less thena quart used was using 2 qts per 1500 miles.
That's great to hear! Thanks for letting us know!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Fun watching your testing. I found a TSB that the MFG will run, before a new engine. B12 is great for hard carbon. After the Soak x2 plus changed oil ran liqu moly Pro line oil flush 15 min idle.
Rebuilt my 2.0 tfsi audi a4 b8 due to consumption. Mine was as bad if not worse than yours. The 2nd compression ring was worn pretty bad, and the oil control rings were full of carbon. Luckily, my cylinder walls looked awesome and still had cross hatch without scoring. My cylinder walls are coated in graphite and are not supposed to be re-honed. I finished it yesterday and have only put 80 miles on it so far, so fingers crossed. The exhaust valves were really bad and will need to be replaced. I managed to clean mine up, but it took hours. I have my pistons and rings if you want them to soak in chemicals
You did that by yourself?
@purplehaze8557 yes I did everything on my own. I started tearing my own cars apart when I was 15 lol. I felt confident enough to rebuild it. I should have sent the head to a machine shop but I didn't because I wasn't have head gasket issues when I torn it down.
@@BrandonCartwright04 I salute, sir. I could never do that by myself.
@purplehaze8557 Thanks, man. if you enjoy that kind of stuff and want to learn. I suggest buying an older car for cheap and start working on it. 500 to 1000 bucks, so if you do mess up, it's not that big of a deal. Swapping engines is much different than rebuilding one, but we all start somewhere.
Hoping the best for your Audi, Brandon! I appreciate the offer too ... I'd like to get a set of stuck and clogged 1zzfe piston/rings since the oil drain-back holes are probably the biggest culprit.
Have you changed out the valve cover gasket and the spark plug gaskets that go with it???? Fel-Pro is the best option for you. I see Oil down the spark plug holes. This is caused by leaking spark plug gasket in the valve cover. A bad valve cover gasket might not leak but will give you low oil pressure.
Yep. Did those several videos back. Used Toyota gaskets.
Some nice Windows XP desktop background views here, at 02:30.
I am observing the filters cut open on HPL cleaner, at Bobistheoilguy when HPL "Cleaner" is used and it doesn't do spat. Just normal few carbon specs, never loaded. Even HPL says their regular oils are stronger than their "Cleaner" so "it doesnt disrupt too much too quick" ... It's a Waste of time and money.
I hear ya.
Smart man 😁
Try BG Dynamic Engine Restoration.
On another note… It seems that berrymans was not a permanent fix if oil burning is “creeping back up” Do you agree @Diydave?
I was thinking so too, but then ... oh wait, I don't want to spoil the next video 🤔 ... we'll see 😉
hi dave how are you , my corolla still running super good , just did 12000km oil change no burn, i dont think any chemical can clean those oil control ring , the way those ring are stuck with gunk, you need to submarge whole engine for 2-3 day in side chemo dip lol
Needs more Berryman's!
Going to try Amsoil engine flush?
I have a Pontiac Vibe with the 1zz-fe in it and at 346,000 miles it's not using but a quart every 10,000 miles and that's when I change the oil. So I'm wondering why yours at 197,000 is using so much? These motors are super reliable all the way into the 500k+ range with just a timing chain replacement. And I'm doing the timing chain on mine now because of the miles on the motor.
If your car 2003 and up, it will have a different piston design which has more oil drain holes. 1998-2002 has crappy engine with bad piston design makes it harder for oil to drain back to the crank case which turns to carbon buildup causing rings to stick then finally kills cylinder walls. I have the same engine and it is a piece of junk trust me.
I'd love to have 346k and virtually no usage 😯
@Craigslst User it's a 2004 and I have a 2005 that I just got that gonna need to put a clutch into and will probably do a timing chain while I have the motor out because it has 250k miles on it. I was told it didn't burn any oil the guy just didn't want to do the clutch so I picked it up super cheap.
@@donaldhiggs2075 Any Corolla, Matrix & Vibe 2003-2008 will not suffer from the excessive burning the 1998-2002 engine has. You have one of the best cars ever made so take of it when it comes to maintaining fluids. I own 2001 Corolla and drinks oil just like Dave's Corolla and due to burning exhaust smells like crap specially in winter. I have done everything from swapping fuel injectors, new fancy spark plugs, coils, air filter, full synthetic oil changes and smells like #$$@ and burns oil.
Dave did you ever try AMSOIL products.
Not yet.
just ordered some for my hemi! 6 qts of hp oil and 1 qt of hpl.
Good oil to clean any engine is Rotella 15W40 Diesel engine oil, the price isn't bad, put it in run about 1000 miles it will clean interior of engine very well, I use it in my Kohler courage 18 hp (known for not lasting) I have 905 hrs and never been opened, Rotella will not hurt your engine to use all the time.
Good info. Rotella is definitely on my list of possibilities.
Try engine restore and liquimoly oil saver!
No viscosity modifiers
He went with the good stuff
When is the next video, episode 23, coming out ? The suspense is to much !
I’m trying to finish it before the weekend. 😅
Have you tried running 50% Motul "Power" 300V 0w-20 for 2 or 3 oil changes in a row? Motul "Power" 300V 0w-20 is formulated with ester-based oil stock and higher content of detergent additives that may help clean the sludge you may still have in stuck oil rings. Don't run 100% Motul "Power" 300V 0w-20, since this is a "racing" oil and may have a negative effect on the engine if run without mixing with a good synthetic oil. It would be very interesting to see the oil analysis of Motul "Power" 300V 0w-20 compared to other oils :)
I haven’t yet. Thanks for the suggestion, Alejandro!
My engine doesn't use oil, so when I changed it the other day and topped it off. It was a 1/2 a quart above the dot. I drove it for about 3 days and just couldn't take anymore. I had to take that half a quart out. Triggered beyond belief 😅
Why not to make a complete video?
The HPL product is meant as a prep before moving to their normal oils. Their oils have a high concentration of esters and AN that themsleves over time will aid in cleaning deposits. Not suprised by this outcome...not really what the product if for. Per HPL, their oils have a higher cleaning effect that this product.
Forget your neighbor's scope, let's check out his Land Cruiser.
I'm about 💯 % convinced the oil rings need replaced. I work at a Volvo dealership and have seen numerous vehicles under warranty getting revised pistons and rings replaced to stop oil consumption. Burning a quart or more in between oil changes. You have put so many chemicals in that engine and I've seen them pistons almost brand new looking at one point and still consuming a considerable amount of oil then getting carbon built right back up and a lot of oil on top of the pistons. It bypasses from the bottom up and does not get scraped off. I'd be shocked if anything other than piston/ring replacement works even the BG dynamic engine cleaner.
No disrespect to HPL but there’s no detergent or cleaner made that’s will clean up the oil rings on those engines once they are carboned up. There’s nothing wrong with the cylinder walls as you already know and the rings aren’t worn out technically. I understand the value of trying different things to see what if anything helps and it makes for good content.
When you do finally get around to doing an inframe on the engine let me know. I don’t think we are that far away from each other. I worked on Toyotas for many years and would be happy to help.
Tear down and attempt to fix the oil burning with the least expensive replacement like rings only or rings and pistons maybe. That with the chemicals is a done at this point. Almost no further interest to follow if continuing to dump additives only.
Thanks for the input.
10w 30 with lucas oil stabilizer will heavily reduce it
It doesn't appear to be pooling like I seem to remember
Was that the Walmart DC in Laurens?
Yep!
The oil fried in the grooves is gradually losing hydrogen, thickening and turning into goo. After a long time, it loses all the hydrogen and becomes just carbon. Carbon is not soluble. B12 did clean the soluble layer of the deposit. The rest can only be removed mechanically.
Poor people back then we're like "why you pooping in your house"😂😂😂
Deep creep sea foam , top down! 24 -72h
now its just more of the same, doing same thing over and over with same results, can conclude engine return holes are still clogged ( rings will be clean enough to eat off by now).
So how to clean those little holes out? I can think of one way that might work:
fill engine with oil and whatever cleaner you think works best, fill engine to very very high level,
accurately as possible fill oil till the bottom of the piston head at bottom of stroke ( i.e.just a few millimetre above the piston holes), take out spark plugs, put starter motor on 12v source and let it turn the engine over for as long as possible............2 or 3 days........if its turning too fast lower the voltage to 6v and continue.
You might expect some oil leakage since level is so high.
The only way you are going to solve this now is with novel approach..........unless you want to take engine apart.
There might be some genius out there can think of another way to do it, but novel approach is needed to solve this, that pesky hard carbon in the tiny tiny holes for back drain oil is not going anywhere unless you find some way to shove oil/chemical mix into those holes with some pressue.
I've got to say, this is pretty novel.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY no one has solved this yet ( that I'm aware of), requires novel solution, will require some imagination too, might be some way to clean them by taking off the sump, access to the holes will be tricky, and how to get that gunk out really difficult one to solve.
Maybe some of same pistons from wreckers that have clogged holes, and try to work out a method to clean them out form underneath side, I'm sure there will be some way to do it, but dont think anyone has developed a method as yet.
Just like the carbon in the holes, the problem is HARD!
April 9th? So it takes two months to post videos?
Doh! I did it again! ... That was actually May 9th. 🤦♂️-- I only put the date in there so I'd remember in case my roof was damaged -- and then I put the wrong date anyway.
Diesel engine oil has a lot of detergents
😊😊😊😊
I dont think HPL oil is number 7. I believe it is saying No Viscosity Index Improvers from my limited knowledge of hanging out on the bobistheoilguy forums to much.
You're correct. My mistake.
So this is not in any of the mechanics interest for this to work, so maybe some are suggeting that this doesn't work out of self preservation