How To Repair Damaged Romex Wires
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- TE Romex Splice Kit: amzn.to/3DVclxP
Wago 221 2-pin Lever Nuts: amzn.to/38NLfu9
Damaged romex with exposed wires is a safety hazard and is something you want to take care of at the time of the damage. I will demonstrate 2 different ways to fix this issue which should cover the variety of situations you could encounter depending on where the damage occurs. First, we will install a junction (handy) box and splice the wires with Wago 221 lever nuts in the newly installed box. Next, we will show how to install a TE Romex Splic Kit which is a great solution when the damage occurs in a wall cavity or another location you can't install a handy box.
Part Used
Handy Box: amzn.to/3nfVNdG
Handy Box Cover: amzn.to/2X4hFOp
3/8" Romex Clamps: amzn.to/3heLX8k
Ground Screws: amzn.to/2Yz2tJH
12/2 Romex (25 ft): amzn.to/3yPoXTi
TE Romex Splice Kit: amzn.to/3DVclxP
Wago 221 2-pin Lever Nuts: amzn.to/38NLfu9
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RV service tech here, electrical specialist 3 decades. Those TC splices are used a lot in RV's especially the transitions between the romex to SO wire in the slide then back to romex. I have replaced dozens of them that have burnt. It might be the total lack of experience in the people manufacturing the rv's in properly or not properly installing them but I would never recommend them for heavy loads and certainly never bury one in a non serviceable location.
What RV stands for?
@@IAmThe_RA Recreational Vehicle. Camper, motorhome etc.
@@RVSparky
Glad you posted this, I'm a mere DIY'er and I know we aren't "supposed" to bury a junction/termination box, BUT I'd trust metal with the O-ring lockdowns over a piece of cheap plastic any day of the week, they probably aren't even all that cheap. There must be a reason that these are allowable and the j-box isn't... I think I'd even trust a PVC box over these! In reality land, how much is this "code compliant" fix any better than a couple Wagos hanging (somehow permanently sealed)?
That's good advice. Not often to hear tips from someone in your line of work. Thanks.
Just a retired career Navy electrician, but I wouldn't trust these splices for the same reason I don't trust backstabbed connections. You're going to have full circuit current going through the tiny bit of contact areas between the wires and those forks. And then bury them in walls, hidden from view to boot? Sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Not a bad video, but one tip for you and anyone paying attention. When making or breaking branch circuit joints, there is an order to follow. If you are breaking joints, start with the hot wire, first. The neutral, second and the ground last. When making joints, go in the opposite order. This way you always have a grounded, non-current carrying conductor as a path to ground, rather than yourself as the pathway to ground.
Thank for this!
@@dalewoodiel3572 you're welcome. I am a heavy construction electrician and I have been at it for 28 years. If you have any questions about electrical work, ask me because I probably know the answer. Glad to help
yes I learned this the hard way....
This guy doesn’t know how to do anything. It is bizarre to me as why he makes electrical videos.
@@dalewoodiel3572 great tip as my uncle had his back and chest blown out from being a ground and his boots had tiny pin holes in the soles where the electricity exited into the ground.
If the previous owners did this for testing purposes, you need to take a very deep look at everything in your electrical system. No telling what other surprises are waiting to be found!
Yeah there's a lot more wrong in that house.
you can tell it's sketchy just by looking at the wiring. zip tied to conduit? no licensed electrician would do that. it was done by the homeowner or a crackhead
@@rustblade5021 or a car stereo installer. Lol.
I'm an electrician doing mainly remodel residential work in Florida, and i COMPLETELY AGREE! Seeing this would send me on a full electrical inspection of the house. I would be looking in every electrical box, inside the panel, and attic. I would spend hours doing so. All it takes to burn your house down is a loose wire nut!!!!
Well there's a main breaker just sitting on top of the panel, which is weird. Panel is missing a screw too.
For anyone wanting to install a box for this scenario, if the conductors aren’t damage and it’s just the outer jacket you can get an open splice box and not have to cut the wire to install it. It’s literally as easy as snapping the box over the wire and screwing it to the wall
Not where I am. And not where I previously was.
Electrical tape then open splice box is what i would do. Or just the tape. 😊
@@gerry3595I’m with you! I’d wrap the hot and neutral individually. Then all the wires together. If the copper is not damaged, there is no risk.
@@UDumFckin addition, in this particular case, disconnect from the panel, and you could slide a big shrink wrap tube on top. That is way better than cutting and reconnecting, imo, but I understand why it's not code approved - not because of fire hazzard, or some other safety issue. They can't approve this because people would start hiding damaged cables by just wrapping section with an electrical tape.
Having said that, I would have just open more outer shield, wrap individual splices, and then wrap all together.
I am a licensed electrician and run a somewhat large electrical operation. The wago 221 is superior to wire nuts in multiple ways so I agree with the use and the recommendation.
The splice kit is a different story, I have seen multiple mobile home fires caused by those connections. Adding a junction box is always an option, you may just either have to add an additional receptacle or have a blank plate on your wall. Usually if you tuck the blank plate low enough then it's never noticed anyway. Also, if you damage a wire and need to add a junction box, consider what is on the other side of that wall. I have seen many damaged wires and we were able to do a lot of them by adding a junction box in a closet or something similar.
if it is just skinned insulation i typically, if in a dry location, tape it up good with tape, making sure to wrap both wires up and then arround all of it a few times
I think I'd find the terminating point (receptacle or switch) and run a new line straight up into the attic (assuming that's closest) and bring the other end over and adding a junction box up there. It is accessible if not inconvenient but then you are not having to add something to a wall like a blank plate. I guess it just depends on the placement of the wire on which way to go... I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with that splice kit and just those little points of contact buried behind a wall.
@@etherealrose2139 i can guarantee it will eventually fail, then an electrician will be cussing the person that did that. i've been there before, especially with the speed wire receptacles, i don't do the speed wire/back stab because of this issue, when a load is pulled through it it tends to fail. this issue carries to this splice block as well as those push in connectors, they'll all fail eventually if a decent load is pulled through it. the best spice is wire nuts or if you can solder it.
The Wago relies on a spring, just like the stab back device. Neither should ever be used. I'm certain the only reason they are still allowed is because of the influence of contractors v that. Just want it cheaper and faster - not necessarily better or safer. Twist your wires then put on a wire nut. You'll never see a joint come apart if done in this manner, but I've seen many burned outlets where stab backs were used.
@@dangroce82 Not sure what you're thinking of, but the Wago connector does not use a spring, it uses a lever. Definitely not cheaper than wire nuts, and people screw up wire nuts all the time.
Hadn't heard of the splice kit before, but seeing how they are made caused me to believe that they are going to be a weak spot in your wiring if a heavy load like a space heater were to be connected for a few hours. Not a fan of anything that pierces insulation instead of just connecting to the bare wire with a greater footprint than those little metal strips.
there is no way under the sun I would use the splice kit, just think of all the electrical fires in mobile homes with the outlets connected with same connections, yeah, not safe for heavy loads over time. if offer a screw connection style connector, I may approve?
This is true I highly do not recommend this type of connection ever
@@randymack1782 Where did you learn similar mobile home connectors cause fire issues? I did a quick search and couldn't find anything, but maybe I did not search the right terms.
Agree! With all the issues I see in autos using insulation displacement connectors I can’t imagine using that TE connector in a home
@@georgebush6002 He might have meant to say "pre-fab" house. They are wired with these types of connectors.
If I had a damaged wire inside a wall, I think I'd use that opportunity to add a wall outlet, even if not needed. You'd then have a junction box that's accessible, and that wall outlet might come handy in the future.
Agree, adversity is always a chance for opportunity. I would add though, the above white romex either low amp 14 or 12, not sure, I would add a box and an outlet for sure, but I would add a plate, square noting low amps, and just to be safe scratch in 15 amp or lighting. If it is not low voltage or not lighting, but 15/20 amp outlets that will not overload a breaker, then go with a traditional outlet and plate.
or just add a blank off plate on the j-box for possible future use and leave exposed to outside wall. Never a good idea to have any splice behind a wall that can't be available for maintenance. Not sure that will pass a city electrical code.
@@robertjones3610 never talked about a splice hidden behind a wall, my whole point was to put a receptacle to have access to that splice instead of a blank plate.
If it needs repair, use that opportunity to upgrade.
Our family has embraced that idea ourselves.
This is a spectacular idea! And perfect for my situation, thanks!
Wago now has an inline "splice" connector that would work well in this box, especially if the wire ends were short. Wago 221-2401. The Wagos seem reasonably sturdy, these pierce the insulation devices seem pretty sketchy, I'd like to see them tested a LOT first.
I spent a lot of years being an electrician and I would NEVER install a half-A' gadget like that tyco thing. Reason being they are more expensive to use, and at best a future problem in the making. A common jobbox and some wire nuts are 100% approved everywhere in the US and last forever when done correctly. Also you have the option of turning that circuit into a outlet or switch or add another branch later if you like (assuming you used a large enough box) I have never had issues with j-boxes. On the other hand, little "shortcuts" like snap-together things almost always cause a problem eventually, especially if that circuit is going to have some serious loads on it. eg. electric space heaters, or if the location gets a little damp and corrosion could make the little slicers in the gadget rust up.
Lol, totally agree. The contact resistance at that contactor will be more dangerous than doing pretty nothing at all
Agreed. Provisioning and over-spec’ing are always a good idea.
That said, the splice is a good solution if you locate a romex fault or break inside the wall and you don’t want or can’t have a jbox.
@@MarcosElMalo2 If I had a fault in a wall I would still be doubtful of using the plastic thingie. I would not sleep well thinking about it developing a high resistance someday and burning up the house. Then with my luck, someone rats me out the fire marshal and I get dragged into court, spending thousand defending my actions. All that so I save a little work with the plastic gadget today? No thanks. What I do with faulty wall wiring is make a big quote for tearing out the fault to the nearest box and installing a new cable. That is also a lesson to the homeowner to not be a moron and beat a big nail into a wire! FYI this actually did happen some years ago. Except I let him do all the drywall repairing to save him some money. I just fished the new cable to the nearby box.
@Mike Lamb I agree that is the most mickey mouse piece of garbage I've ever seen, with that cut so close to the panel, you could cut the romex right at the cut, pull the romex back, and mount a box, run a new piece of romex from the panel to the new box. This fix is a hack job!
42 years as a licensed electrician and I used one of those things once, never again.
Those Tyco Electronics splice kits are used on mobile homes to make the connections between the 2 sections once the home has be transported, or at least they were in 2004 when I purchased my old home. They are sketchy if you ask me. I had lost power to a few outlets and traced it back to one of those fittings. The ones they used allow them to connect multiple sets in one connection. I was able to pull them tight together with cable ties. Given the choice I will always use the handy box. My fear with the TE connectors is that over time the plastic will degrade and fail.
I lived in a mobile home that was built in I think 2015 and it was the same way. Not a fan at all. If you ask me, that is even worse than backstabbing outlets and switches since unlike these connections, at least the backstab connections have a spring loaded tab to keep the wire somewhat secure.
I totally agree ,seen them fail to many times and the idea of putting in wall that is no longer accessible is pure crazy
I've got a mobile home by Fleetwood built in 2020. It has those connections. I'm hoping that the fact that all I plug in around here is phone chargers and two LED tv's, it will be ok. There is the fridge in the kitchen and my girlfriend's hair dryer, those are the only things that use more than an amp or two. All the ceiling lights are LED too. The one's from the factory are junk. I'm replacing them with Lithonia Lighting wafer lights.
Wasn’t Tyco a toy manufacturer?
I had nothing but problems with those connectors,everytime I go to a modular home due to loss of power I trace it back to one of these.they are garbage.
It’s kind of like a giant scotch lock connection.
Not crazy about the pinch cut connection in 12 volt, surprised this is approved for 120 volts.
Why would you be surprised? If there is no UL or CSA stamp on it ....then of course ....be surprised. But if the stamps/logos are on the device .....it's been tested like every other electrical device .....past the ratings noted.
.
I've never used one of those splices. I'd avoid it if possible, but sometimes they could save a whole lot of headaches. Those V shaped forks are called insulation displacement connectors. Same as a punchdown connector for data cabling. I still don't think I'd bury one in a wall though.
I've replaced a lot of them...
@@kenbrown2808 That's exactly what I figured. I've got by my whole life without them, and I don't trust them in a wall. My whole life I've been pulling a new piece to the attic or crawlspace and putting a box there, and a new short piece of romex. Don't have to replace the whole wire, and if you know the wires bad in the wall - you don't have to cut / patch either. Remove box, fish new wire, put box back.
@@notsure7874 I recently rand into a case where a siding nail had been driven through the wire. I simply went back to the next stud on each side and added two receptacles.
@@kenbrown2808 Yeah, then you don't have a failure prone joint (which is ANY joint) buried in a wall.
@@notsure7874 AND there's a couple more receptacles. which in an older house is an added bonus.
Super. If I was actually going to hide a splice in the wall, you better believe that I would use a screw termimal connector, not a poke the insulation connector. I've rewired a number of homes where the homeowner damaged the wire, but the best one was a female friend trying to hang a picture with a huge #16 nail and going right through the Romex. She called in tears, (From the shock?) so I went right over, and long story short, I was able to repair the wire by putting two clock outlets on her wall and pulling a new piece of Romex between the boxes. She was greatly relieved when I only charged her twenty dollars, (Normally, minimum $60 per box.) and I did such a good job on the clock receptacles that the husband didn't notice for almost two weeks. Ever notice an outlet in your house that you have never seen before? It's just Super Sparky on the job again, saving the world from bad wiring, one house at a time. 💙 T.E.N.
That is an interesting product, and it is a good low draw buried solution. I would not do this with a heavy draw. Also note, this owner installed romex in exposed locations which really raises concerns as to what other short cuts were used..romex exposed is not generally accepted in most codes and also UL is the gold standard. Be sure and verify locally. Thank you!
At least here in Canada, Romex is allowed to be exposed as long as it there is a low chance of it being subject to mechanical damage.
Depends where the exposed wire is could always just make it an outlet as well if the circuit can handle it junction box thats useful
I didn’t think about making it an outlet. Smart!
Licensed electrician here. I can see where this splice kit would generally be safe to use, just like stab wired receptacles; WHEN they fail, they don't burn the house down, and then provide future work for an electrician. Just because it's safe doesn't mean it's practicle.
A wise ass electrician complaining about future opportunities.
I'm a pro and I most definitely like and use the Wago's but I would have used a pair of 4 x 4 x 2 1/8 steel boxes and cover plate.
Love WAGOs ! I also replace with new wires wherever I can. Some of the existing wire I either can't trust the installation to begin with, or the insulation is questionable on the very old stuff.
Electricalron.....I like room to work too!
If that is all the inspector caught during his inspection, he is not much of an inspector. All those cables tie wrapped to conduit are a NEC violation. Conduits shall not be used for support.
Actually you can but it would have to used some of those stackers for romex and made it look more cleaner,But the major violation is all that exposed electrical wire al eye level.
Conduits can be used for support, but only for control wires. Like the thermostat wire to the furnace. However, using zip ties to support NM cable is a violation in itself. Only MC cable with approved zip ties are permitted.
Yeah, I noticed that as well. Clearly this panel, or all the added circuits with unsecured romex was done so without a permit, Although an inspector could call it pre-existing if he knows the electrician doing the work. (Knowing that particular electrician doesnt work like that, i mean)
@@robertsteich7362 yes and no... As shown it's a no go... But cable ties are absolutely allowed and honestly say safer when Properly installed. Than say a traditional staple. Which I think we can all admit feels a bit barbaric.
@@seanbouker It's a bit tricky. *SOME* cable ties are allowed under current code. Prior to 2017, it was more open, but now they have to be specifically rated for securement or support.
If you look at the package, assuming it has a UL listing, it'll say something like "UL Type 2" on it. Type 2 and type 21 are no longer okay - you need type 2S or type 21S - the S is for support.
ALMOST everything you can buy in the home improvement store electrical aisle these days is 21S, but there are a few 21's still there. And if you're buying zip ties anywhere else in the store, or at harbor freight or from randos on Amazon, all bets are off.
I'm not sure how I feel about that splice kit. 🤔
I get that it's NEC compliant, but then so are those punch-down trailer/mobile home receptacles and... (shudder) backstab wiring! 😀
They are reliable but,expensive!!!
that splice kit IS a mobile home splice. I have trouble believing it is approved to be buried in a wall, since mobile home splices go in a handhole.
I use a direct burial listed splice kit if I have no alternative to burying a splice in a wall.
@@kenbrown2808 That's an interesting point. I think I'd presumed it was suitable in this case since it's exposed wiring in a basement, but then it raises the question of what happens if the basement is later finished and all that stuff enclosed in a wall down the road.
@@marcberm there is nothing more frustrating than trying to troubleshoot a buried splice that's gone bad.
@@kenbrown2808 agree, should be part of the code to include a label in the panel that it's been spliced and approximate length from source the splice was done.
The TE Romex Splices are commonly used in manufactured homes (double wides) to connect the two halves. Although they are approved, I get a knot in my gut whenever I see these. But for some cases they can't be avoided.Just make sure the Romex is secured so they can't possibly pull apart. My current double-wide uses an actual junction box for the marriage. I guess it depends on the manufacturer.
Sometimes you don't have enough slack to pull to reconnect the romex inside a box. What you can do there, is cut the romex and pull it back where you can get a box on both ends, then run a short piece of wire between the 2 boxes. It's a whole lot easier and less costly than running a new wire.
That Guy, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I saw a job illustrated once where ever cable going into a box had a "jug handle " as if someone wrapped the Romex around their hand to build in 9" of slack. I did that on a branch cut that I added at my cottage, not sure if that is code or not, but it sure helped years later when I needed some slack in a branch to repair a broken wire that I had nicked at orig installation
Exactly!!!
So you're saying connect one box to side A of the cut line, connect a box to side B of the cut line, and then connect the two boxes with like a 6" middle line? Is that what you mean? If so, I'm with ya. Especially since a box is only like $3.50 at the hardware store.
So cutting corners is OK, making it correct n safe is at the top of my list .Was an electrician for 40 years. Twisting wires and using wire nuts makes a much better connection. And yes there is times of repair. I sleep well at night knowing I did every thing correctly and safely. That is the bottom line.
@@mdvener can you explain why that wouldn't be safe? Im still learning, if you're an electrician, I value your knowledge.
I have seen a much heavier duty form of a splice. It has three copper tubes with set screws on both sides. Each tube is insulated from each other and from the outside. I would trust that kind of a connection much more because it mimics the load box connectors.
That sounds to me to be every bit as secure as the wire never being damaged.
Unless it is in a damp position and gets all corroded it should handle as much current as the uncut wire itself.
Anything with a quick - clip connector is the pits.
I'm an electrician, since 1970, & typically I repair damaged Romex with proper splices in Junction boxes.
Yeah, this guy is a hack !
@@mikemacdonald2032 These are allowed by the NEC and have been for years. Prefab houses are wired with these all the time.
@Bob Beanner I'm sure when wire nuts were introduced, some old time electricians said "I'll never use those things, soldering joints is the only way to go!". To be clear, I would never use them in the situation he did, but if I was in a bind an unable to put in a splice box, you bet id use them. I'm a licensed Master Electrician.
@Bob Beanner That doesn't change the fact that they are approved by the NEC. Also, if your jurisdiction doesn't specifically forbid them from use, the inspector cannot makeup his/her own rules on the subject.
@Bob Beanner 2020 NEC 334.40b I can check an older codebook to, if you like. I have nothing better to do, really. :(
Step 1: Find the person who purposefully cut the insulation on the wires & left it and punch them in the face.
Step 2: Run a new wire when possible or make a J-Box with wire nuts or Wagos.
Step 3: Go back and punch them again for wasting your time cleaning up their mess.
Step 4: Grab a cold beer.
Step 5: If they still got up after Step 3, then repeat Step 3 until they don't get up anymore.
Cause that could have started an electrical fire and get people killed.
confirmed for best and most practical solution
Considering that NEC requires inaccessible splices to be soldered, I'm surprised they allow that kit to be used at all. In the accessible splice, I'd prefer the box and wirenuts.
NEC allows push-back receptacles!
Can you quote the nec article I didn't know I could burry a connection if I soldered it?
@@PeterTrimboli many years ago I was told by a master electrician that any splice made behind drywall must be soldered. My NEC is about 20 years old - who knows what's changed. I've seen RUclips videos of using wirenuts and heat shrink underground, but I personally would NEVER do that. I'd solder it, apply silicone and heat shrink at the least. Better to run a new cable.
@@jimmacaulay844 Check out 334.40b. No soldering is required for these connectors.
@@jimmac1185 Maybe NEC changed.
I am a licensed electrician. I have never heard of this product. But i can see where there are a multitude of situations that this would get one out of a bind! Now to check with my inspectors , the Authority Having Jurisdiction, AHJ. Whether this is approved by the NEC or not can be irrelevant if the AHJ says no. The NEC also says that whatever the AHJ says... IS CODE.
Amen to that 💯
If you had any experience at all then you would know that inspectors don’t know jackshit. Also, these are mainly used to be buried behind sheetrock. An inspector would never know.
I'm a handyman. I run across this issue far more than I'd like. Being "old school" I strongly prefer the handy box repair. That said, the TE Romex Splice Kit is a solution that will work where a handy box won't. However, I do have to echo Steve Foster's comment re not liking anything that pierces the insulation. Another potential point of failure, also greatly increases the resistance in the circuit. OK, enough kvetching, I just came across your channel and I greatly like your presentation style. Keep up the good work.
An electrician installing a circuit for my AC put a screw through a wire right by the breaker . He said he was going to put a junction box next to the panel. I said "no, you won't. Run a new wire." He was pissed but he did it and I went up and made sure he did. That splice kit is something someone installs and says "that'll be the next guy's problem." As I seem to be frequently the next guy, I don't like gizmo/gadet fixes.
I agree - That splice kit looks like junk.
I am an electrician, and while I wouldn't use this in your home, I definitely would use it in my own. That thing looks like it will last forever on a 15A or 20A circuit.
@@jeangadoury932 Go for it. Won't see it in mine.
Omg, you would have found yourself on the floor with a split lip if I had been the guy you bowed up too. Tellin me what I'm going to do....Hey look..SMACK!
Its the back of my hand !!
That's what's up....
I don't understand your complaint. You say he was going to put a "junction box", so that is not a gismo/gadget fix.
All of these videos are really great, and your efforts show. I watch Project Farm for what to buy, and I watch Everyday Home Repairs for what to do. Thank you very much Scott.
I love project farm also.
4:33 I have similar flush diagonal cutters. They are only rated for 16 gauge. I hope you not overworking yours....
Your video was informative.
I will be looking farther into these though. In all of my experience with pinch type connectors I have never had great success.
Note that the only part that contacts the wire is the tiny parts that the wire pinch into. I would be concerned with anything more than a 15a circuit. I would hope it would only be rated for 14 gauge (15a).
I must note that I have seen many crazy things over time. Many of these is why I would be concerned.
I love that you showed an alternate for an exposed wire with the handy box. I would recommend that if at all possible.
On another note I do not recommend securing wires to conduits, especially metal. If there happens to be a short in any one of those wires it can electrify the whole pipe. (should be grounded, but not always the case)
Also note that zipties are not great for long term. They tend to get weak over a short time. I am even finding that the plastic Romex staples seem to fail after a couple of years.
Stopped using those type of splices in cars many years ago. The "forks" will overheat and corrode over time especially under high load conditions. My modular home has similar type of "connections" in all the outlets and light switches. I am in the process of replacing them all.
in the mobile home i own i replaced a receptacle for having loose prongs causing the plug would fall out. each of the push-in connections on the receptacles that i replaced for this had charring from a bad connection. not a fan of spring loaded stuff, even wago. they generate heat, the exact thing i *don't* want inside my walls. i guess i will continue using j-boxes and proper terminal blocks for splicing.
Thanks for sharing the video. I damaged my Romex wire by screwing a bolt in to it. I went with the junction box option explained in the video . Worked fine and easy! I had enough space in my case, I think the splice kit is good only if you have limited access or confined area to repair the wire. Also make sure wire is not taking a lot of load (current) if you decide to go with the splice kit.
You can't guarantee the load, because future owners might load, especially seeing that some feed is underutilized.
I'd like to see a load test of that splice with thermal imaging. I'm curious how hot those connections get. I'm not sure you can do this, I'm simply posting what I'm thinking. I'd be wary of sealing this in a wall. Approved or not.
At $18 each for the splice kit, wow! I suppose that it may still be the least expensive repair in many situations. But, I'm very leery of those push in connectors that pierce the insulation and cut into the wire both from security and current carrying capacity. I'd be concerned that would create a hot spot under full load current.
I agree, looks like something made in China!
I am wondering if it's CSA or UA approved, what is the rating of it?
@@lloydbrown9327 Looks like it is UL listed.
$28 ea now in 2022. Wowie!
@@MrPterasaur you can't find these anymore that's why he's using one made for a /3 wire
Given two of your fixes look like they are in the same basement and its unfinished, I'd run a new piece of wire from the splice to the panel and make a box. New piece since you'd want a little slack. Nice and secure and depending on the load on the circuit, maybe an easy place to pull power from during an upgrade down the road. Inside a wall problem - not sure. I'd still lean to a box, like a retrofit box, and cover with a matching but solid faceplate.
One point about checking for a dead circuit. ALWAYS use your checking device on a known live circuit first to verify that it is working.
The other point I would make is that in this video he seems to be touching the Live wire specifically, and basically ignoring the neutral. And sure in theory that works fine, but in theory when you turned off the breaker that was labeled to control that run it also shut it all off. We're not testing things because we're worried about the theoretical problem, we're testing things because we're worried about what could go wrong. So don't just test what should be your Live wire test the one that's supposed to be neutral as well. You never know what's been done wrong by someone in the past!
With the no touch voltage tester, be aware, you can test it and it 'work' and you go to the wire you actually want to test and the tester say "dead" even though it is live. When I was an Apprentice electrician my foreman did just that, with 3 testers because "you can't ever trust one, it can fail you" he lost his linemans pliers that day they got blown in half... He then said "well, I guess you can't even trust THREE of them, damn it!"
Thank you for that enlightening story
never had my el-cheapo harborfrieght no-contact tester fail me. Of course, when the wires are as close to the box as the ones in that video, I'd pop the panel open to check with a meter, just in case.
I believe the proper test is, 1. Check known hot circuit. 2. Check questioned circuit. 3. Check known hot circuit. Proves tester didn't die after first test.
Whenever you have a snap-together tight connector oh, there's always insertion loss. A weak spot that can oxidize. I like using a little Dielectric grease with connectors like that
I use dielectric grease on EVERYTHING that conducts. Just habit now.
Recently bought an older mobile home. First thing I did was eliminate all of the punch down devices and install boxes and good outlets and switches. Can't imagine why those darn things are approved in NEC. I have never trusted insulation displacement connectors above 12 V DC in installing auto sound systems.
Any decent electrician, in this particular circumstance, would either place a handy box, or 1900 box such that the wire outgoing could enter it for over 6 inches and replace the remainder of the run to the panel, or, as another commenter suggested, run the Romex into the existing 1900 box, and run thhn the rest of the way into the panel, if there is sufficient volume available in the box.
What's a 1900 box
@@orestracki6617 1900 box is what some guys call 4" square boxes
It looks like a flakey repair at best.
I'd feel better adding a junction box & replacing the end going back to the panel.
@@orestracki6617 4 inch square, 1-1/2" depth
1800 not 1900, 1800 is a regular 4x4 electrical box used for joints. 1900 is a deep 4 sqaure box
Wago joiners are the best. Good video.
I prefer using a junction box and wirenuts. Reason is more surface area on the connection vs blade edge of the fork pressing against the wire. The blade edge cannot carry as much current as wires wrapped and compressed together in a wirenut. I have seen a similar connection failed after a space heater was plugged in.
Well explained. Agree 100%
Yea I prefer that too, only problem is adding a junction box or pulling a new wire to fix damaged wire in a wall or ceiling may not always be practical.
Excellent effort in finding a new product and there may be a letter example than this one. I would have pulled a new longer wire from the panel to the break with enough wire to put a proper wire nut splice in a box. I have had the screw through the wire and as a dyi-er I did everything I could to get more slack or run a new wire. Some things just don’t have a short-cut. It’s your life, your family’s lives and lives of people that occupy that house for years to come. No “hacks here, please”.
I've never seen that splice kit before. I wouldn't trust it on anything more than a closet light. I've been in electronic repair for 40+ years, and insulation displacement connectors have always been a problem.
Like I may have posted elsewhere, I had a trailer home with all the outlets daisy- chained and with quick - clip connectors and one time my wife wanted to run an air conditioner in a room and the power would have to go through about 6
' daisy - chains ' of outlets. I was keeping an eye on the outlets, most were hot and I was expecting any of them start frying.
Gotta love the way they wired that place.
Thats a nice idea in instances.personally id never trust that long term.i certainly wouldnt put that inside a wall.nothing beats a junction box.
Just did a wiring project - LOVE those WAGO connectors! Great video!
Thanks for sharing. Cool to see an alternative but not really seeing a plus side to it. Rather a box.
It always bugs me that if the conductors aren't broken you have to break them??? Breaking solid copper which is a good connection. It seems crazy to add a point of weakness just so that you can have good insulation. Can you not somehow add insulation around the unbroken copper?
It's more about safety then maintaining the solid connection, if you are in the area, say running a new wire or a curious kid playing around, you don't want any chance to get zapped. Also, wiring is full of "weak points", every wire nut, outlet, screw terminal or other connection is a form a "weak point", adding one more isn't that big of a deal.
If you did want to add new insulation, you would have get a heat shrink tube to the exposed wire, which isn't going work for a inner wire, as the outer jacket will prevent you from doing that. The only case where heat shrink may be an option (depending on local codes) is if only the outer jacket is damaged (no exposed copper).
Things like Electric tape is not meant to be used as insulation/jacket repair, as it is likely to fall off over time and is against code.
Really the best way is to replace the whole cable. The old cable can be cut off where the split is, and re-used as two shorter cables elsewhere - or in the case of the video, he might have enough slack to cut the cable at the split and pull it 5 feet back to the box, depending on who installed it.
@@notme232 I suppose you could put one of those small boxes around it and you fill with epoxy resin. Like a miniature version of the underground connecting resin filled joints. I've worked automotive electrics and we always solder everything, no screw terminals. You can't beat fused metal connections. I've never been a big fan of mechanical joints.
There is this nifty product called electrical tape, for the problem shown in the video there is nothing wrong with just taping around the romex, the bare spots on the conductors wont touch and everything will be fine.
@@forddon yes and nobody needs to know. And all will be fine 😉👍😂
@@toxicpadda I agree wholeheartedly but God forbid someone on RUclips shows how something is done in the real world.
As of the 2014 nec, it is only allowed for repairing so I believe that he is using it correctly per 334.40b. When they are in stock Grainger has them for under $9.
The example of the "handy box" as you call it was a code violation. Your conductors need to extend at least 6'' from the back of the box, and also depending on where that's located that romex should not just be ran freely like that without any sort of strap or securing device.
Lol this man has never opened an outlet up from 1920 he be like oh I can't extend these wires it's a code violation code says whatever I touch I own I gotta run a new wire now
That's actually not an accurate statement. 300.14 The wires have to extend 3 inches past the edge of the box if any dimension of the opening less that 8 inches. So if you had a shallow handy box, you would not be required to have 6 inches of free conductors.
Perfect spot for an outlet ! Can't have too many of them. That satisfies NEC, home owner & wallet.
I cannot express how much I hate insulation piercing connectors. Outside of the USA they are only used on low voltage / low current circuits, e.g. telephone junction boxes and amateur 12V car modifications. This connector inserts three additional resistances and thus voltage drops on a cable that may have already been close to its maximum length for the current draw. Over time moisture ingress will degrade the contacts and this junction box will become the source of an electrical fire!
Unfortunately, there is no easy way to safely splice a damaged cable except at an approved junction box if there is sufficient slack. I have found conductors with insulation that was damaged by careless installers but, mostly, this kind of damage is caused by rodents gnawing through the cable and when found at one location will be repeated throughout the property in locations that only rats and mice can access. Exterminate the vermin (rodents and cowboy electricians) then rewire to current codes.
Just one thing I do,I am not a electrician.when I have to do a junction box I always write the breaker number on it.
Am I missing something? How do those marginal pinch on connectors not reduce the carrying capacity of the Romex?
If you're on a 20 amp circuit and pullng a draw that's close to capacity isn't that point of contact going to get hot as hell?
Apparently it works. And is rated. Look up wago connector tests.
Even then. I feel a traditional clamped or twisted connection is better.
Now my question is.. Why not just use wagos and toss in the wall? It looks like a very similar idea. THis one providing a bit more of a covering / box though.
@@turboflush he's talking about the TE connector not the Wago. Wago makes solid contact under spring compression. The ones I have are rated at 41A max 30 continuous. I've seen them tested much higher before they melt.
No loads are going to draw that. Maybe a range on 240 can come close. AC compressors and equipment will usually be less than 20a and LRA can be well over a hundred but that is so instantaneous it isn't an issue. Those might be put on 30 or 40A breakers. In other words the Wago is rated for most any residential use.
@@etherealrose2139 yes. The TE.. Did you read the second paragraph?
I am refering to the wago being a similar function. And yea the wago is rated for the 20a. Would take 3 wagos though to do the splice.
Wagos hidden in wall are not code though.
Great video! I am surprised the electrician who "tested" the wires left it in that state. Glad you were able to take care of it and educate people like us in the process.
"Electrician"
Wire nuts - What happened to the practice of skinning the insulation back and using lineman’s pliers to twist the solid wires together and then use the wire nuts to act as both a clamp and insulator?
Yes, it takes more time, but there’s no better way to do a “splice.”
They have worked out well for me as far as being called to clean up DIY problems using them.
One major issue I have run into is the fact that people seem to think they can cut the wires as short as possible to “save room.”
If you've never used Wagos, you're missing out. They're superior to this method in every way except the cost of them vice wire nuts but it's a small price to pay to never have to deal with them again.
Depends on wire nuts. I simply get the wires nice and parallel with each other and insert nut and twist. I think the problem is many don't test the nut enough. I've tested it myself and removed wire nut to see if wires twisted inside like they are suppose to. And they absolutely did. Very solid connection. If it's 12 or 14ga wire, the wire nuts that advertise you don't need to pretwist work great. If I'm doing anything larger I will use linesman pliers.
@@AdamKouse , I’ve used WAGO before, and as far as speed and changeability, they are great.
I just don’t feel the industry has accepted them as being SAFE as opposed to wire nuts, at least at the PROFESSIONAL level.
For the DIY guys, they seem like a blessing because of convenience and ease of use.
However, from a SAFETY standpoint, I guess I’m not sold on them.
I wonder if the insurance industry has chimed in on them.
@@theelite1x721987 , no doubt in my mind that a great deal of time is saved by not twisting the wires, but …….
I’ve never in my life made an electrical connection without carefully twisting the wires together and trimming them before fitting them and tightening the wire nut (where I come from, we call them marrettes). I learned by watching conscientious career electricians at the top of their craft. My clients deserve to have every connection look like it’s in an electrical textbook. Nobody should take shortcuts with safety. Electrical work has to be considered as ‘life and death”. Nobody should be trying to trim seconds from making an electrical connection, it just isn’t worth it.
When I install potlights that come with the push-in connectors, I start by cutting out these connectors and toss them into the trash. I skin the wires and twist them neatly into the solid strand wires and fit it all neatly into the appropriate-sized marrette. Clean and reliable so I can sleep at night. Goodnight…
In the US, Tyco (now TE Connectivity) bought out AMP. So, if you're an old guy, like me, that's where AMP went.
Also the National Electric Code (NEC), are guidelines set up by the industry. They, in themselves, are not laws. Its only when a government legislative body (state legislature, county board, or city council) reference them in a law, they pass, when it becomes law, only for that local. Actually, that piece of legislation is the law. The law just happens to correspond to the NEC, of a particular year, that's referenced. As such, there are often explicit modifications, and amendments to that code, specific to the specific governing body.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm a electrical tech (work supervised by a licensed electrician).
I use a box, or new run of wire, for these situations whenever possible.
I have used the splice kit in some places .. they are code approved, and a big time saver. Also cost effective .. about seven bucks at the local Menards. And I use the Wago connectors .. handiest things ever invented.
Your either a journeyman or an apprentice, electricians are never "techs". There's a push for this classification, fight it because there's only one reason to push it and that's to lower wages by reclassifying a tradesman as a technician. Technicians are task specific experts, tradesman are supposed to be "experts" in a field of study like electrical, plumbing, carpentry etc.
@@ZackaryTwiddles1 You are incorrect, Electricians work on installing the major infrastructure, Electrician Technicians are responsible for diagnosing, repairing, and maintenance of existing equipment. You would never call an ordinary electrician to work on an something like a printing press or a large piece of manufacturing equipment.
Source: IBEW Electrican Technician for the last 5 years.
@@Noughtta You are incorrect, electrician for the last 30 years.....
@@ZackaryTwiddles1 So you exclusively work with industrial motor controls, CNC, automation, BM systems, or controls and instrumentation? Or are you the guy the call to size transformers, run conduit, or manage someone doing things similarly?
@@Noughtta I am the guy who spent a year in resi, followed by two in commercial followed by a two more in industrial, before becoming a journeyman and then spent 5 as a journeyman before going into service and troubleshooting. Putting someone into service that's not already a journeyman is a joke or accident waiting to happen. I can and do install residential receptacles as well as troubleshoot or install an MCC or the VFD in the MCC. WE are never Techs.... But you like the term go for it, you will be the one paying for it in lost wages later on.
This type of connector is called an insulation displacement connector. (IDC). They use a blade to both cut the insulation and provide electrical contact. They have their uses and aren’t always bad but are definitely not the most reliable or preferred solution in almost all cases. Their main advantage is they are usually cheap and relatively easy to install. Downside is they are finicky, inconsistent, and failure prone (especially arcing), especially in applications where movement or vibration are expected.
Would strongly prefer a solder, mechanical splice, weld, crimp, or screw down connection over an IDC every time. Most electricians I’ve worked with tend to cringe at these things and for good reason. Only use if you lack alternatives and definitely do NOT bury it in an inaccessible spot behind a wall. (Same reason we do not allow handy boxes to be behind walls) Almost always better choices exist. Replace with a better choice later if possible.
Disclosure: I own a company that makes wire harnesses and have produced thousands of products with IDC connectors.
Some brush-on liquid electrical tape and a few wraps of regular electrical tape would have been more than enough to patch some nicked insulation. I'd be concerned about those various splices heating up if the circuit is subjected to the full amp rating it's supposed to carry.
Would your opinion of this splice kit change if it was a 15A lighting circuit? With lower amperage LED bulbs and less draw, many lighting circuits are now running at a fraction of what they ran a few years ago.
@@mikecumbo7531 The problem is you have no guarantee there will always be low current on that circuit. It will always be a safety hazard, a ticking bomb.
I agree in the sense that it likely would work OK. But, it likely would not pass NEC or a local safety inspection.
Here is the funny thing about circuits. Those wires can easily take more then the 'rated' ampacity. Usually twice the rating, for hours. The problem is the insulation on the wire doesn't hold up for extended (talking years) use at those temperatures, hence why breakers are made to protect the wire, and only the wire. I properly done splice should NOT be heating up any more then the wire itself and so should be fine, if you have a bad splice (you didn't crimp it enough, ya, your gonna have trouble.
In the time and material spent, I could solder and shrink wrap.
I worked for an electrician and he disliked the Wago connectors. He said he has seen them fail. In addition, some of the old timers prefer what they have used for decades... wire nuts.
NEC still prohibits NM cable (romex) run being run where exposed to mechanical damage. That whole basement is illegal. You had also better check where that splice kit is approved for....
That's what I was thinking. Any NM cable less than 7' above grade was to be protected (covered by drywall, in a raceway, etc.
This video was extremely helpful! My pool pump caught fire and damaged the power cable going to the panel. I bought a 15' 10/3 Romex with ground and a handy box with all the needed accessories to finish the job! Thank you!
I'm going to ask a dumb question. Where did you locate your handy box, specifically?
Wrong. You must have at least 6" of conductor on each side sticking out. When you don't have enough wire to give 6" you must make 6" jumpers to be code compliant. Your handy box is wrong. Here's the code: article 300.14
Now tell us why that matters.
@@adama1294 for make up.
@@adama1294 more importantly it's in case there's a electrical short that damages some of the wire, you can cut off some and still have enough to do the make up
334.40(B)
as an electrician for 35 years I would replace the entire run from box to box, or install a 180 with enough romex so I had the 6” out of the face plane of the box as required by article 300.14 . There is no reason to do a hack job like this, the cost to do it right is minimal compared to using the junk.
100% agree. A very thin piece of copper strip holds the wire from pulling out of the connector. that’s it. a very, very fraction edge of a thin copper blade has the current going thru it. not meant for any kind of amperage except maybe lighting and such. Have tried it and smoked the connector.
I’m a DIY person. I found this very interesting. Thanks for introducing a new concept. I don’t think I’d use it on a repair on a line that was going to use a lot of current.
Please don't ever use it!
What that other guy said
to all! I started wiring fuse box’s about 1962! And I’ve seen a lot of zip ties and lose Romex just as you see in this image/video. Had inspection followed…. and approved! The inspector might ask if that lose Romex was my work? My answer was always no. I’m not sure if inspector would’ve now but up to about 2016 they let it go! I’ve see a lot of lose breakers around fuse boxes……. I guess even in my home! Don’t see a problem….. and yes I’m a Boy Scout
I would never use anything like that Tyco splice kit. Not only do I question the safety of its use, but if that gadget is hidden within a wall, any future fishing/new pulling will be a nightmare and lead to some not so pleasant cursing. With that said, always make connections in the sequence of ground-neutral-hot, and demo in reverse, whether the line is hot or not. In that “handy box” installation, the ground was connected last; that’s a no-no.
your right. the way i see it thats worst than a flying splice, witch is also is a no no.
These type of connections have been used in mobile and modular home construction for decades, with minimal failure rates and negligible safety issues. It may not be the "best" method for splicing, but it's perfectly acceptable and approved. Come on people, it's a building, not a submarine. Just another tool in the box, far as I'm concerned.
@@lastchance8142 really tell that to my friend that had his mobile home caught fire because a staple went through the Romex wire. ACFI breakers could have stopped the short. But wasn't required when the mobile home was made. I don't have trust in mobile home wiring. From aluminum wire to stapled wires and other shottey wiring practices.
@@ronb6182 sorry about your friend. There's always a scenario for failures, no matter what we do. Just saying that if something is approved by the NEC and UL certified, it is "by definition" safe. People said the same thing about WAGOs and Sharkbites, but it's over thinking in my opinion. You have a right to yours. Be safe.
@@lastchance8142 yeah I'm not familiar with these shortcut in wiring if I splice a connection I use a metal box with grounds and all. I also like Gorilla nuts instead of regular wire nuts. A little overkill but it's safe. No taping wire nuts when you use a gorilla nut.
I will add two new boxes and space them out a little bit farther apart. I will put receptacles instead of faceplate if they make sense.
As for wago, they are great, I like them a lot. But if you have enough wire and you don't change the connection ever after done, nuts are as good and much cheaper.
Didn't know an approved splice kit existed, thanks! Also, thanks for showing that part where you test your non-contact voltage tester on a known-live wire before trusting the device to test what you think is a safe romex wire.
Please don't try this. It's obvious that this guy is not a licensed electrician. Or if he is, he should consider another career. No reputable electrician would do this scab work. There's lots of other videos on RUclips that teach you properly. If not , hire a professional...it might be expensive, but so is a fire.
@@mikemacdonald2032 could you substantiate your claims with specific constructive criticism?
Wago are the best been using them 4 years. I would have installed plug into ceiling. 819 no elecrical tape. You want to be able to inspect those contact point visually for arcing. Inspectors hate electrical tape.
I would trust some properly applied butt splices with heat shrink on each conductor and the overall cable far more than that push down connection
Especially that heat shrink with the inner heat-activated glue. Good luck taking THAT apart!
@@markarita3
Always wondered why not put some di-electric grease in there while im at it? If heat shrink doesn’t have it.
butt splices are poor connections when using solid wire, best to use wire nuts and twist the wires, about 3/4" strip.
@@mikebowler1962 Actually, I was referring more to stranded wire splices. Yes, you're right though.
Usually I just use liquid electric tape spending a little money for ease of use and I find that's good enough to make it the next guys problem
What you are ignoring is the possibility that the actual conductors, ......the copper wire ......is damaged. This issue is not only about damaged insulation. If the copper is damaged such that it cannot handle 15 amps (assuming 14 gauge conductor) ......then there WILL be, or COULD BE, a serious problem, at this point, when running 15 amps continuously.
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Good Video, always like these to add to my mental files, then when a situation like this presents itself, the mental light comes on. Thank you.
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I had to show this to a licensed sparky doing a kitchen remodel when he tried hiding a junction under drywall, rather than pulling new wire. One of many signs I should’ve fired him, but I needed him to complete the job.
I once found a damaged cable like that at a friends house. One of the previous owners put 5 or 6 twist locks on a single romex cable. The spot I found he must of missed or forgotten about. He had an electrician come in and replace that section from the breaker panel to the first junction box.
As a commercial electrician I'm seriously impressed with the quality of your videos and real life situations you discuss. No steps skipped or edited. Very true to what you encounter in real life.
You aren't a electrician with any experience then cause everything in that video was wrong
Not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination, but I've properly replaced enough of those little janky T-Splices that are supposed to "cut through the insulation" in cars and boats to know that they don't last. This product looks a little better made, but still a hard no for me. Simply not enough contact area and they add a new point for corrosion. Fix it or install it correctly the first time and you don't have to worry about it again.
People like you encourage homeowners to do their own electrical work, oftentimes resulting in dangerous and potentially lethal situations that people like me have to go behind and fix ANYWAY, and trust me I ALWAYS charge extra when I can tell a system has been previously tampered with because 9/10 times you make the job harder for me to properly repair.
Btw your wiring hanging in front of that 4s box is also against code, nothing can block the cover plate.
Learning electrical skills is one of the most personally valuable things I've done.
With the price of Romex these days I’d use this in a heartbeat. As for safety I’d have no problem with it. If it was in a attic where it might get stepped I would probably put 3 or 4 rounds of tape on it.
Great job explaining how this works without a lot of frustrating BS you see on so many RUclips videos.
How do those splice kits do over time with higher current loads? i.e. a circuit that will run a 15A heater or A/C unit?
Link to product on Amazon results: "Currently unavailable.We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock. "Also not available or out of stock on Graybar and Home Depot
Where were you when I’ve been an owner of old homes for 40 years. Your videos are great
This guy is great at starting electrical fires. 🙂
Already love this "fix", went from nicked insulation to DISCONNECTED/COMPLETELY CUT, WIRING. Half volt drop at every connection.
I'm astonished that side-blade contact for a 15 amp circuit would be UL listed for more than 5 or 6 amps. Contact surface is a fraction of the wire's diameter and would become a hot-spot if the current approached the fully allowed load on that size AWG. 'blade/piercing' works fine for replacing a plug on a table lamp, and for phone/lan connections, but I wouldn't trust it for a main branch right out of the distribution panel.
2011 NEC allowed for 'insulated tap devices' in exposed runs or where it would be 'fished' into an existing concealed space.
2014 NEC allowed for 'non-metalic sheathed cable interconnector device' that is UL listed, in exposed runs or for REPAIR only where it might be concealed (i.e. nicked a ceiling light run inside drywall and you have to cut a hole to get to the damage wire to repair it), but never for rewiring.
That was exactly my thought. Someone is going to put a 1500 watt heater on that circuit and run it for 3 weeks straight 24/7. I wonder how hot that is going to get since it is a very high resistance compared to the rest of the wire.
It's UL listed for 20A, and will have been tested to a higher current. It would make a good RUclips video to see one of these connectors tested to destruction. My guess is that they would be good for 46A.
I’m just old school and do know better than to trust anything less than a well done pre twisted wire nut especially if it’s to be buried. I know it’s not code to bury a j box but I would much rather that then a splice kit which will fail under continuous heavy load. Copper to copper will always be superior than any prong, insert or lever connectors. I was taught the correct way 45 years ago and never had a wire nut failure. Wagos are fine for light fixtures but I don’t trust them to carry heavy loads even if they are a time saver.
There is a 1900 box above it, cut the romex, use a romex connecter and run it in that box ( unless it is loaded, follow wire fill calculations) and then make splices, run new single thhn wires through the conduit to the same breakers, easy inexpensive fix, 10 minute job.
I think you missed the video maker's point.
Before running out to use these, better check with your local, state inspectors first. These are not acceptable everywhere. Personally, I would have replaced the whole wire.
A state inspector? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
This was a very informative and easy to follow instructional video. Great job and Thank you!
Had one electrical contractor that thought fastening his wires to the sprinkler pipes was a good deal because they are well secured. He wasn't happy when I made him take them down, but that's life... and code.
Those splice kits are not code for exposed applications. They are only allowed where the wire and splice is fished back into an existing/previously closed/sheetrocked wall. They are called IN-WALL splices to connect a wire that barely protrudes from an existing wall to new wire then push/fish the splice connector back into the existing wall. They cannot be used in an area where a box could contain the splice.
I don't have the 2023 NEC yet, but some of the stuff I've seen the TC splices are going to be allowed to be used in exposed locations in the edition.
@@jimharvey5289 Those connectors are also made by Molex. They are used by Winnebago in RVs to connect premade wiring harness for the 120 v circuits. They are very hard to find and can sell for $5 to $12 per piece, You need 2 pieces for each connection. They are quite fragile.
Idea. . .
I like to Confirm my circuits, using 2 testers. I also confirm their functon prior to use.
Your video's are well done. Fight On !
I confirm everything with my Fluke 77 meter.. Never get a surprise... :)
if possible it is best not to cut the wires in this case. tape up the damaged parts and use a clamshell style box
I would not do this as a home owner. Unless the exposed conductors are either heavily exposed or badly nicked, I would not cut the wires.
In the example provided, you went from three intact conductors to 6 fail 9 fail points. ( the six fork splices and three mating surfaces.
I would would have used top quality liquids electrical tap and coat all wires individually, let dry, then coat all three together (spaced out a little) and the nicely wrap it all with top quality electrical tape,..... also...the connector is 30 bucks.
I "might" feel better about this if it was made with screw type mechanical connections...
I would be very curious how this would hold up on heavy current loads like an electric heater
I see wagos and a 'relok' style connector both of which are prone to failure. Wirenuts provide a much better connection for any wire carrying substantial current.