I don't have open splices but I have a bunch of boxes with no covers. Don't know how that got past the inspection. One day I'll remember to fix those. And, wow, those boxes are NOT cheap!
I have spent countless hours in attics enclosing open splices. Most would require having to use 2 boxes and extra wire so there are no exposed wires, the outer jacket must be inside the box. This would have saved a crap load of time. Because attics are so much fun in the deep south during the summer months. Open splices is an extremely dangerous common practice for some people. They just want to get in and out of the attic as fast as they can, taking the quick and dirty approach and doing shoddy work. Most homeowners will never venture into their attic. And you are 100% correct about homeowners not knowing about open splices in their attic. The only time they would get found is via inspection or adding a circuit or troubleshooting a problem, that is when they get discovered. When found I would always emphasize how important it is to have all open splices enclosed without trying to scare the bejesus out of them. They would always give me the go ahead to do the extra work and get them enclosed when found.
@@markkwasny9650 Maybe in some places but around here the most you will kind are spiders. Most critters here only venture into attics during the cool season which does not last all that long. But when it starts to get hot you will not find much more that just spiders in an attic. The heat would kill them.
@@jonesgang What? roof rats love making nests in there, and iguanas are huge attic lovers as well. i've found more than enough skeletons of SOMETHING in an attic, to know it's not just spiders up there. Also....frigging huntsman spiders are in attics. In a confined space, anything is terrifying to run into but doubly something that's as fast as one of those fuckers. Maybe you're not as deep south as I thought if you don't have these problems.
Hi there, Rack-A-Tiers Rep agency from Canada here. Great video! Just to add a couple items. The biggest time saver is something you didn't show. TRACKING DOWN THE BREAKER the splice is on and turning it off. Especially if you're working solo. The other important note is to be sure to check the connections of the open splice before enclosing it. If the connections are loose, you're going to have to take apart the splice so go find that breaker.
@@USMC1984Right, I can undo and redo a splice for less than $13 and a box with actual clamps is better anyway, AND you get to make sure the splices are tight when you redo them.
@@integr8er66 I agree. But with this plastic box having its own lid and not needing plastic cable stays and lids for metal boxes it would be a lot easier to use.
That's amazing! I bought a very old house in an unincorporated area in 2021. Having come from Chicago suburbs, I was greatly surprised to find all the open splices in my attic, and to not have been cautioned about them by an inspector. I've repaired about 15 of them so far, the old fashioned way. And, I've been working 2 weeks (almost done) up in my garage attic to completely redo a number of circuits. It's been so hot, I almost got heat stroke today. Thanks for sharing this!
That’s what I did, this house when I bought it had no garage attic vents so I put some in, it was amazing how hot it was up there even without a ceiling in the garage.
@@455buick6 oh no, I spent hours every day up there. It was a big job. It started when both my outdoor floods broke (about 11' off the ground on the outside wall), and I had to completely replace them. Then there were wired going up both side of a window into the attic, with switches and outlets on both sides, and romex running every which way. I piped it in, now just a single run going up into the attic, separate switches ganged into one box, one for lights over the bar, one for ceiling fans, one for coach lights above the bar, and one for outdoor floods. All those connections had to be reworked in the attic. I know how to do it, but I'm not an expert. My biggest problem is I don't know how to bend conduit.
@@ralph1478 this is really a large pole barn. There's insulation above the ceiling, but the roof is corrugated steel. What kind of roof vents would go onto that, with the corrugated humps on the roof? Thanks.
New subscriber here! That's a great product! A am a DIYer, but my father was a master electrician back in the day. He taught me how to wire and showed me the code violations, and the open splice was one of them. I'll have to admit that there is one in my house right now 😮 I was cutting the floor from above and somehow managed to hit the wire in the basement. I made a quick open splice and moved on. Now, I can go back and fix it quickly! Then my entire home will be in compliance! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
News flash: Government regulations stifle innovation. (I'm not arguing against government regulations, especially in dangerous fields like electrical work, but we should also recognize the downsides.)
Its about time! Lol. Ive modified a dozen J-boxes by cutting them with a recip saw down to the entry ports and then carefully glued back together and secured after sliding the open splices into the intended entry points. I passed inspection but dont know if the inspector saw my mods or not. This is a great product! Thanks for bringing it.
Personally I'd like a look at someone else's connections, there's too many times that the job was done by someone that's completely clueless, careless, brain dead or whatever, I'm not allowing a possibly dangerous crap connection when it only takes a minute to check and a few minutes to redo if necessary, use your head everyone, the attic isn't hot in the morning before the sun hits it!
Common where? I was an electrician for 40 years and saw this a few times, always done by a homeowner who thought he knew what he was doing. We did things properly in Massachusetts. No electrician would deliberately do this. But, since I retired to South Carolina, I have seen some of the worst electrical work imaginable. Totally SMDH.
Nice idea thanks for sharing, I believe the reason we haven't seen such items before is code compliance from the NEC (they take forever) these splices were a dream to fix. Normally there isn't too much slack in the wiring and the whole mess is taped up inline, sometimes without enough slack to put a box in without additional splices to the line.
Code requirements for splices have not changed. They all have to be enclosed. The market research, design, and listing (UL, etc) is what took the time!
Talk about timing, I was putting in a receptacle extender yesterday and was shocked to find open splices inside my kitchen island. Amazon is sold out. This is brilliant.
I have had to do that a few times with Raco octogan boxes in the past, take a hacksaw and cut two Parallel cuts in the side of the metal box and bend the tab in and insert the Romex. Worked for me.
I think it might be a good idea to not bend the openings down entirely. If you bend it in just a tiny little bit, it will provide some strain releave. The plastic edge will press against the cable and keep it in, if my assumption is correct. This is actually a strain releave method that is used with many compact connectors. For example the strain releave on many MC connectors (from Staubli) is done this way and works quite well.
That's what I was wondering. My understanding is that a retaining clamp or some other mechanism is required to resist pulling the cable from being pulled. Also, to help seal the opening against any sparks shooting out the box and starting a fire.
Or that sharp hard plastic edge will strip the insulation off the conductors and create the perfect short circuit right on the edge/outside the box and set fire to the attic...
My first house which was built sometime between the late twenties and early forties had two lines coming into a fuse box from the alley and two lines going out to the attic. Each line had a fuse, I think, but it was just one circuit. The two cloth covered wires ran parallel through the attic with a splice for each light and outlet, which were few. There was a single outlet in each room, not a double outlet like is common today. While rewiring,I discovered some charred wood next to the old outlet in the kitchen where the refrigerator was plugged in. Scary. I went a little overboard with 10 circuit breakers, outlets everywhere, including the attic, a closet, outside, and on the rooftop. I added a window AC and some ceiling fans while I was at it. House was only about 900 square feet.
Watched a few of your videos and you give some good info. Now here is a challenge for you: Many houses built in the 1970's have aluminum wire used in them, not the new copper coated wire of today but actual solid aluminum. The problem occurs when a DIYer needs to replace a light fixture, switch or outlet. Switches and outlets need to be designed and rated for use with aluminum wire and those can still be found at most big box stores. But light fixtures come with copper wire preinstalled and connecting aluminum wires and copper wires take special connectors. How about a video on this for those who own houses with old style aluminum wire.
Because dealing with solid strand aluminum wiring in a mid-60's to mid-70's home is not a DIY situation in any circumstance. All wiring work must be performed by a qualified licensed electrician using special connectors and a special crimping device that basically creates a cold-weld connection. If your home has not been professionally evaluated and retrofit, you should have that done. It's so important that many insurance companies will not insure homes that have not been corrected once they become aware. I realize this is an old post, but this is important info.
Our local radio station, KFI has a show on the weekend called the "House Whisperer" Dean Sharp is the person who runs this show and he also runs his own home rebuilding business. A question came up about splicing wire and weather or not it could be done legally. the caller wanted to extend his wire about 6' to complete his project and did not want to re-run this wire because he was moving a fan more towards the center of the room. Dean mentioned about open splices and said it was against code. He said as long as you enclose the splice in a box you can have as many splices as you need in the wire to complete the project. This box is ingenious. He never mentioned this box probably because of the question posed to him, This box is very cool.
Your example is the best case scenario. 90% of the time that you run into open splices there is not enough wire length to get both wires into the box. You'll typically need 2 boxes with covers, a length of the appropriate size romex (NM-B), some staples, and wire nuts. If you're dealing with the old cloth covered wire you may need heat shrink as well. Some old houses are using bx. If that is the case then you'll need bx/mc connectors, romex fittings, and the boxes need to be designed to accept the fittings.
@@IrfanKhan-ze4yx I'm familiar with that. It's typically used in double wides at the seam. Most of the time when I have to deal with that situation both ends are too short for that device as well. It also tends to be more time consuming than just installing boxes. On top of that, the boxes offer the flexibility of expanding the circuit if necessary in the future.
I always just install 2 boxes and a jumper on open splices because a guy who's dumb enough to make an open splice, is also dumb enough to make it too short to work on later.
Good job. Just helped a friend in Falls Church VA. I found this exact scenario. Amazing people do splices outside junction boxes. Got er cleaned up. Now it’s to code.
2nd house I bought had 4 of said connections IN 1960's ROCKWOOL insulation!! Learned alot on that one! Graduated to building my own w/ that knowledge and running a crew 4 Habitat. The final house we sold had ZERO items on the inspection punch out! Quality is key! (along w/a good dose of OCD) 😉 Great channel....still follow tips, methods & products..
They should make an upside down version of this so that the lid can just slide under the wires in a situation where there is not enough play in the wires.
I feel like this is how junction boxes should all be designed regardless of open splices or new work. I like the idea of not feeding cable (esp 12 gauge) through the usual holes and pulling them through the box.
I did this bathroom remodel one time, where I removed the drywall that was over the plumbing, and they had open splices over the pipes. Romex was not even going through studs, just floating around, wire nutted together, on top of the plumbing. Excellent.
Oh, and our plumber ran a screw through a wire in the floor joist. Instead of running wire through the middle of the floor joists, they ran it about an inch bellow the sub floor.😂
@davidcurrie5260 it is "designed to meet U.S. (U.L. 514C)." Which is the UL Standard for Safety Nonmetallic Outlet Boxes, Flush-Device Boxes, and Covers. It is MET listed. MET is another recognized safety lab like UL is. It can still be used and is legal to use.
@@HowToHomeDIY I can not speak for the U.S. authorities but in Canada "designed to meet" will not be accepted. Devices used for electrical work must have a legitimate marking such as a "ULc", "ETLc" or a CSA to be acceptable. (Even a UL mark without the small "c" is not acceptable. I am not criticizing the device as it appears to be a decent product, but if something bad or ugly happens any non approved or listed device will be open to suspicion.
@@davidcurrie5260 Yeah I totally understand. It is MET listed and I went out to look at the box and on the inside of it where it says MET listed there is a US on one side and C on the other. It is my understand that MET is just another approved and recognized lab by both the US and Canadian governments.
@@HowToHomeDIY I have been involved with Standards Development in Canada for 25 years _Fire Alarm Monitoring and Intrusion Alarm Systems) and I have never heard of MET. But clearly based on your observation the MET symbol with a "US" and A "C" makes it 100 % legal to use in Canada. Good communicating with you and thanks for the replies.
Hey ya initially can’t forget to tell the people watching to first make sure the circuit is off/de-energized. Keep in mind there may be people out there that are totally clueless when it comes to working on electrical issues in their own homes. Keep that “thumbs up” up right? Your videos are great!
But seriously though, yeah, sometimes when somebody has wired two separate circuits into a box, you have potential for 220/240. That can be kind of hard on your heart.
I have worked on plenty of knob and tube houses. It is not "shoddy work" because it was standard practice 100 years ago. A splice was wires twisted and soldered together then wrapped in cloth tape. The main goal was to keep wiring away from flammable surfaces. So the old splices were free gloating away from all surfaces. Granted it looks bad now but as a replacement for open flame gas fixtures, it was a positive step toward fire prevention.
Hiya, GREAT Vids!! I REALLY wanted more info on making wiring connections & you did a fabulous job of showing me. Quick fix needed on your video link. The one that shows is how to replace a towel bar.
So, that looks like a good idea. However, if the previous person was foolish enough to leave an open splice in the first place, would you trust that they adequately created the connections? When I see something done wrong I will always open it up and redo properly every time because I want to be certain it is safe and reliable.
If a person thinks he knows but actually doesn't he shouldn't be working with electrical bottom line .may God continue to bless all electricians in safety and there lives anyone's life can be cut short in the twinkling of a eye so take some time to do things the way they should.
This is a pretty handy product. I would use it. I know that you are trying to save attic exposure time, but since you are already there wouldn’t you recommend a quick inspection of the splicing itself? I would think that if there was any undetected resistance or corrosion inside a splice, moving it around could make it worse, or more dangerous.
in old enough houses this was common as the code requiring splices to be done in boxes is only since the mid or late eighties, in attics.. under house and basement was late 70's.. But the new Wago Boxes etc are much smaller and safer than the old steel boxes.. where many people feel like they do not need the sheathing clamps to hold the wire but simply place into the metal holes.. In your case, a simple handybox with the hold downs internally and a blank cover would work fine- that box you show works, and the new wago box with three straightline wagos works.. Just mount the box and make sure it is sealed afterwards.. we are spoiled for ways to fix that now..
actually not true. Code has required splices to be in a box since K&T went away. (almost 100 years now) What you are explaining is LACK OF CODE ENFORCEMENT from inspectors in certain areas. That doesn't make it right!
Love your knowledge and simple directions to follow. I have 1 question...installing resest wafer lights with connection box and wago connectors included.. how do you connect all the wires, and stuff them back in the box eithout cutting up your hands?
This thing would also be super nice to be able to tap onto a circuit mid run without having to get to an existing outlet box. I've added an outlet or light in the attic and such before where I probably would have had enough loose wire for this thing but not a normal box. Usually I end up with 2 boxes one for the tap and one with just a splice to lengthen the wire.
One note you must also ensure the wires are stapled within 12” of the splice box. Taping them wasn’t bad work back in the day; way back when in the days of knob and tube all connections was simply twisted and taped. That was how things were done.
You could but technically it’s against code to alter a box where the manufacturer does not list it as an option. Not saying it wouldn’t work just have to include that.
@@kenovryn Deburr with a pocket knife. A trip to the hardware store takes me about an hour round trip. And I have a drawer full of electrical boxes already. Do you not have any problem solving skills?
That is a well designed, and useful new product! Question: My house was built in 1970, here in Honolulu, and it has aluminum wiring throughout. I want to splice an extra wire off of an existing outlet. Can I splice copper ROMEX type wiring directly onto aluminum wiring? If so, how do I do this safely? Mahalo(thank you)!
Hello and thank you in advance. I need to create a splice (in a junction box) in an attic space on a 20 amp circuit (yellow romex) to add another length of yellow romex and a new GFIC outlet to a exterior porch ceiling. However the existing yellow romex is taut and would be difficult to create the junction. Any advice on how to splice into an already existing taut wire would be appreciated.
Hey great vid ..... question for you ..... does it state anywhere in code that wires running in an attic have to be in conduit ? I checked my attic and luckily I dont have any of these open splices
That's pretty slick. In combination with Wago inline connectors you could do one of those very quickly. What if who-ever did the original open-splice did you no favors and didn't leave you enough slack? Which way should you go - splice in a small segment of wire, or pull one side completely and replace?
Yes, that's the usual thing I have found. In that case, you end up installing a box at one cable, adding a short length of cable from its opposite side, and installing a second box to connect the short length and other cable in.
about time they have a product to fix other folks idiocy! I hate finding open splices and worse yet is finding them buried in insulation or middle of the wall. over the years I've found many live receptacles, switches and boxes buried in walls, ceilings, floors, even behind the tiled showers or knob and tube ran around, near or touching cast iron tubs! who in their right mind does that stupid of things. the homeowners were wondering why they felt tingling like an electric shock, yes they were getting shocked, sometimes at pretty high current.
Could you use this with MC? My house is older it has MC cable throughout most of it , I found some open connections in my attic where I used junction boxes to cover the open connections
Question from someone who just found an open splice: when adding a box, that houses the open splice, does this box have to be accessible? It might be a dumb question to some, but I think a handy man I hired said it was ok to patch over (these boxes) with dry wall.
I have an open splice in my attic on a cable that is string across space, not along rafters (taking a shorter route). The splice is no where near wood. So I am thinking I need to make this two splices with two boxes, by cutting and splicing in a box at one point where wood is accessible, and then splice in a longer length that runs to the next point where I have wood access. There install a box and make the second splice. Does this sound like a good fix?
I've always fixed a situation like this the first way and it's a perfect opportunity to add an outlet just because you never know when an outlet in an odd place will come in handy. Also that second solution is a nice fast easy way. I'd bet it's been invented for many years probably took forever to get all the certifications needed... Red tape bs.
Per UL it only takes 6 months to get a product listed if you supply a working prototype. Not sure how long it takes to get NEC approval on new products.
I could have used one of these many times. Now I can. Thanks. Two comments, Junction boxes must be accessible. Do a trial first, before mounting to be sure you are positioned correctly, and have enough sheathed wire going into the box on both sides to be code compliant.
Have you found any of these open splices in your home? Do you need to go look now? 😂
Crap. At least I don't have an attic.
My sprinkling system is like this. No box. Sprinkling system needs protection from lightening strike. That happened. Must have traveled under ground.
@@davidkilby1043 I don't either, LOL.
Bummer, was hoping to eliminate the box
I don't have open splices but I have a bunch of boxes with no covers. Don't know how that got past the inspection. One day I'll remember to fix those. And, wow, those boxes are NOT cheap!
I have spent countless hours in attics enclosing open splices. Most would require having to use 2 boxes and extra wire so there are no exposed wires, the outer jacket must be inside the box. This would have saved a crap load of time. Because attics are so much fun in the deep south during the summer months.
Open splices is an extremely dangerous common practice for some people. They just want to get in and out of the attic as fast as they can, taking the quick and dirty approach and doing shoddy work.
Most homeowners will never venture into their attic. And you are 100% correct about homeowners not knowing about open splices in their attic. The only time they would get found is via inspection or adding a circuit or troubleshooting a problem, that is when they get discovered. When found I would always emphasize how important it is to have all open splices enclosed without trying to scare the bejesus out of them. They would always give me the go ahead to do the extra work and get them enclosed when found.
It's no wonder some workers are in a hurry to get out of an attic, considering hazards such as wasps, bees, bat's and rats that are often there.
@@markkwasny9650 Maybe in some places but around here the most you will kind are spiders. Most critters here only venture into attics during the cool season which does not last all that long. But when it starts to get hot you will not find much more that just spiders in an attic. The heat would kill them.
@@jonesgang What? roof rats love making nests in there, and iguanas are huge attic lovers as well.
i've found more than enough skeletons of SOMETHING in an attic, to know it's not just spiders up there.
Also....frigging huntsman spiders are in attics. In a confined space, anything is terrifying to run into but doubly something that's as fast as one of those fuckers.
Maybe you're not as deep south as I thought if you don't have these problems.
Hi there, Rack-A-Tiers Rep agency from Canada here. Great video! Just to add a couple items.
The biggest time saver is something you didn't show. TRACKING DOWN THE BREAKER the splice is on and turning it off. Especially if you're working solo.
The other important note is to be sure to check the connections of the open splice before enclosing it. If the connections are loose, you're going to have to take apart the splice so go find that breaker.
It’s a great idea. But at $13 usd it’s still a little pricey, hopefully the price will come down in the next couple years.
@@USMC1984Right, I can undo and redo a splice for less than $13 and a box with actual clamps is better anyway, AND you get to make sure the splices are tight when you redo them.
@@integr8er66 I agree. But with this plastic box having its own lid and not needing plastic cable stays and lids for metal boxes it would be a lot easier to use.
Don’t really understand why putting the connection in a box makes it safer
These cant be concealed yet in most states
That's amazing! I bought a very old house in an unincorporated area in 2021. Having come from Chicago suburbs, I was greatly surprised to find all the open splices in my attic, and to not have been cautioned about them by an inspector. I've repaired about 15 of them so far, the old fashioned way. And, I've been working 2 weeks (almost done) up in my garage attic to completely redo a number of circuits. It's been so hot, I almost got heat stroke today. Thanks for sharing this!
While you're at it, add some roof vents to keep the attic cooler. Excessive heat will cause premature roof failure.
That’s what I did, this house when I bought it had no garage attic vents so I put some in, it was amazing how hot it was up there even without a ceiling in the garage.
Is there a reason you can't do this in the morning before the sun heats everything up?
@@455buick6 oh no, I spent hours every day up there. It was a big job. It started when both my outdoor floods broke (about 11' off the ground on the outside wall), and I had to completely replace them. Then there were wired going up both side of a window into the attic, with switches and outlets on both sides, and romex running every which way. I piped it in, now just a single run going up into the attic, separate switches ganged into one box, one for lights over the bar, one for ceiling fans, one for coach lights above the bar, and one for outdoor floods. All those connections had to be reworked in the attic. I know how to do it, but I'm not an expert. My biggest problem is I don't know how to bend conduit.
@@ralph1478 this is really a large pole barn. There's insulation above the ceiling, but the roof is corrugated steel. What kind of roof vents would go onto that, with the corrugated humps on the roof? Thanks.
New subscriber here!
That's a great product! A am a DIYer, but my father was a master electrician back in the day. He taught me how to wire and showed me the code violations, and the open splice was one of them. I'll have to admit that there is one in my house right now 😮 I was cutting the floor from above and somehow managed to hit the wire in the basement. I made a quick open splice and moved on. Now, I can go back and fix it quickly! Then my entire home will be in compliance!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Why is the exposed neutral wire ok? Especially all that bare copper, it was a lot. Why is it bare?
Such a simple concept, yet where has this been for the last 40 years?! Thanks for the video!
Right where it should be.
News flash: Government regulations stifle innovation. (I'm not arguing against government regulations, especially in dangerous fields like electrical work, but we should also recognize the downsides.)
Pretty good idea . Usually they are too short and need 2 boxes to accomplish this , but if just right , great product
Its about time! Lol. Ive modified a dozen J-boxes by cutting them with a recip saw down to the entry ports and then carefully glued back together and secured after sliding the open splices into the intended entry points.
I passed inspection but dont know if the inspector saw my mods or not.
This is a great product! Thanks for bringing it.
Awesome! I just found an open splice last week and was planning on getting a box and doing the needful. This will be much quicker and easier. Thanks!!
Personally I'd like a look at someone else's connections, there's too many times that the job was done by someone that's completely clueless, careless, brain dead or whatever, I'm not allowing a possibly dangerous crap connection when it only takes a minute to check and a few minutes to redo if necessary, use your head everyone, the attic isn't hot in the morning before the sun hits it!
Handy solution to a common problem. Thank you!
Common where? I was an electrician for 40 years and saw this a few times, always done by a homeowner who thought he knew what he was doing. We did things properly in Massachusetts. No electrician would deliberately do this. But, since I retired to South Carolina, I have seen some of the worst electrical work imaginable. Totally SMDH.
Nice idea thanks for sharing, I believe the reason we haven't seen such items before is code compliance from the NEC (they take forever) these splices were a dream to fix. Normally there isn't too much slack in the wiring and the whole mess is taped up inline, sometimes without enough slack to put a box in without additional splices to the line.
Code requirements for splices have not changed. They all have to be enclosed. The market research, design, and listing (UL, etc) is what took the time!
Talk about timing, I was putting in a receptacle extender yesterday and was shocked to find open splices inside my kitchen island. Amazon is sold out. This is brilliant.
I've discovered 3 open splices so far. This product would have helped a lot, thank you!
I have had to do that a few times with Raco octogan boxes in the past, take a hacksaw and cut two Parallel cuts in the side of the metal box and bend the tab in and insert the Romex. Worked for me.
No disrespect intended, but then you are using a product in a different way than manufacturers specifications. That makes it a code violation.
I just used a few of these at a customer's home last weekend. Good stuff!
Good job with clear and concise explanation approach
I think it might be a good idea to not bend the openings down entirely. If you bend it in just a tiny little bit, it will provide some strain releave. The plastic edge will press against the cable and keep it in, if my assumption is correct.
This is actually a strain releave method that is used with many compact connectors. For example the strain releave on many MC connectors (from Staubli) is done this way and works quite well.
That's what I was wondering. My understanding is that a retaining clamp or some other mechanism is required to resist pulling the cable from being pulled. Also, to help seal the opening against any sparks shooting out the box and starting a fire.
strain relief, not releave
Or that sharp hard plastic edge will strip the insulation off the conductors and create the perfect short circuit right on the edge/outside the box and set fire to the attic...
@@watvannou If it is a short circuit, the breaker will trip immediately. That is what they are there for.
My first house which was built sometime between the late twenties and early forties had two lines coming into a fuse box from the alley and two lines going out to the attic. Each line had a fuse, I think, but it was just one circuit. The two cloth covered wires ran parallel through the attic with a splice for each light and outlet, which were few. There was a single outlet in each room, not a double outlet like is common today. While rewiring,I discovered some charred wood next to the old outlet in the kitchen where the refrigerator was plugged in. Scary. I went a little overboard with 10 circuit breakers, outlets everywhere, including the attic, a closet, outside, and on the rooftop. I added a window AC and some ceiling fans while I was at it. House was only about 900 square feet.
This is really helpful. I have an open splice in my attic right now that I sometimes worry about. Now I have an easy fix. Thanks!
Awesome! You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I have to say it really looks like a remarkable product; simple but valuable.
Thank you for sharing this product!! I have quite a few to do in my attic. A definite time saver!
very happy to have found this video since i have this issue and could not for the life of me figure out what it was called! thanks Adam!
Watched a few of your videos and you give some good info.
Now here is a challenge for you: Many houses built in the 1970's have aluminum wire used in them, not the new copper coated wire of today but actual solid aluminum. The problem occurs when a DIYer needs to replace a light fixture, switch or outlet. Switches and outlets need to be designed and rated for use with aluminum wire and those can still be found at most big box stores. But light fixtures come with copper wire preinstalled and connecting aluminum wires and copper wires take special connectors. How about a video on this for those who own houses with old style aluminum wire.
Because dealing with solid strand aluminum wiring in a mid-60's to mid-70's home is not a DIY situation in any circumstance. All wiring work must be performed by a qualified licensed electrician using special connectors and a special crimping device that basically creates a cold-weld connection. If your home has not been professionally evaluated and retrofit, you should have that done. It's so important that many insurance companies will not insure homes that have not been corrected once they become aware.
I realize this is an old post, but this is important info.
Our local radio station, KFI has a show on the weekend called the "House Whisperer" Dean Sharp is the person who runs this show and he also runs his own home rebuilding business. A question came up about splicing wire and weather or not it could be done legally. the caller wanted to extend his wire about 6' to complete his project and did not want to re-run this wire because he was moving a fan more towards the center of the room. Dean mentioned about open splices and said it was against code. He said as long as you enclose the splice in a box you can have as many splices as you need in the wire to complete the project. This box is ingenious. He never mentioned this box probably because of the question posed to him, This box is very cool.
Your example is the best case scenario. 90% of the time that you run into open splices there is not enough wire length to get both wires into the box. You'll typically need 2 boxes with covers, a length of the appropriate size romex (NM-B), some staples, and wire nuts. If you're dealing with the old cloth covered wire you may need heat shrink as well. Some old houses are using bx. If that is the case then you'll need bx/mc connectors, romex fittings, and the boxes need to be designed to accept the fittings.
TYCO makes a code compliant splicer kit for those tight wires. Part A22899-000
@@IrfanKhan-ze4yx I'm familiar with that. It's typically used in double wides at the seam. Most of the time when I have to deal with that situation both ends are too short for that device as well. It also tends to be more time consuming than just installing boxes. On top of that, the boxes offer the flexibility of expanding the circuit if necessary in the future.
@@IrfanKhan-ze4yx That seems to be marked as obsolete on Mouser
I always just install 2 boxes and a jumper on open splices because a guy who's dumb enough to make an open splice, is also dumb enough to make it too short to work on later.
@@N20JoeWORD!
Good job. Just helped a friend in Falls Church VA. I found this exact scenario. Amazing people do splices outside junction boxes. Got er cleaned up. Now it’s to code.
Yeah a bunch of these older homes in NOVA are like that! Scary
Excellent tip! Great instructions! Really like/prefer your new "bullseye" transition, much better than the old "hand in the face"
2nd house I bought had 4 of said connections IN 1960's ROCKWOOL insulation!! Learned alot on that one! Graduated to building my own w/ that knowledge and running a crew 4 Habitat. The final house we sold had ZERO items on the inspection punch out! Quality is key! (along w/a good dose of OCD) 😉 Great channel....still follow tips, methods & products..
Thanks for the review!😎
They should make an upside down version of this so that the lid can just slide under the wires in a situation where there is not enough play in the wires.
I thought that was the whole idea when I saw this...
same
Just use it that way (upside down) I thought the same thing too when the video started!
Best the wires are properly extended.
Great idea ,
Where has this thing been? Brilliant.
Timing is perfect. I have a small home project that this will do well on
I have a few open splices I need to get back to.... That's a really cool solution! I was thinking you could also cut slots like that in a regular box.
I do like the product. It's not always that easy. Many times I will find an open splice with 3 or 4 sometimes 5 Romex coming together. Great videos
I feel like this is how junction boxes should all be designed regardless of open splices or new work. I like the idea of not feeding cable (esp 12 gauge) through the usual holes and pulling them through the box.
Always great to discover new devices on RUclips. Thanks!
I did this bathroom remodel one time, where I removed the drywall that was over the plumbing, and they had open splices over the pipes.
Romex was not even going through studs, just floating around, wire nutted together, on top of the plumbing.
Excellent.
Oh, and our plumber ran a screw through a wire in the floor joist. Instead of running wire through the middle of the floor joists, they ran it about an inch bellow the sub floor.😂
Great info, it is safer but it also looks clean and good!
Unless the product has a UL or ETL listing symbol it is NOT legal to use. If listed then a great device.
@davidcurrie5260 it is "designed to meet U.S. (U.L. 514C)." Which is the UL Standard for Safety Nonmetallic Outlet Boxes, Flush-Device Boxes, and Covers. It is MET listed. MET is another recognized safety lab like UL is. It can still be used and is legal to use.
@@HowToHomeDIY I can not speak for the U.S. authorities but in Canada "designed to meet" will not be accepted. Devices used for electrical work must have a legitimate marking such as a "ULc", "ETLc" or a CSA to be acceptable. (Even a UL mark without the small "c" is not acceptable. I am not criticizing the device as it appears to be a decent product, but if something bad or ugly happens any non approved or listed device will be open to suspicion.
@@davidcurrie5260 Yeah I totally understand. It is MET listed and I went out to look at the box and on the inside of it where it says MET listed there is a US on one side and C on the other. It is my understand that MET is just another approved and recognized lab by both the US and Canadian governments.
@@HowToHomeDIY I have been involved with Standards Development in Canada for 25 years _Fire Alarm Monitoring and Intrusion Alarm Systems) and I have never heard of MET. But clearly based on your observation the MET symbol with a "US" and A "C" makes it 100 % legal to use in Canada. Good communicating with you and thanks for the replies.
Hey ya initially can’t forget to tell the people watching to first make sure the circuit is off/de-energized. Keep in mind there may be people out there that are totally clueless when it comes to working on electrical issues in their own homes. Keep that “thumbs up” up right? Your videos are great!
People that dumb are probably not working on wiring 😳
But that's no fun! I like a little spice in my day.
But seriously though, yeah, sometimes when somebody has wired two separate circuits into a box, you have potential for 220/240. That can be kind of hard on your heart.
Thanks for the tip I created two or three of these in my attic my self . Always want to be prepared for the inspector.
I have worked on plenty of knob and tube houses. It is not "shoddy work" because it was standard practice 100 years ago. A splice was wires twisted and soldered together then wrapped in cloth tape. The main goal was to keep wiring away from flammable surfaces. So the old splices were free gloating away from all surfaces. Granted it looks bad now but as a replacement for open flame gas fixtures, it was a positive step toward fire prevention.
What a brilliant invention
that open splice box instead of a junction is quite nice
Hiya, GREAT Vids!! I REALLY wanted more info on making wiring connections & you did a fabulous job of showing me. Quick fix needed on your video link. The one that shows is how to replace a towel bar.
Wow, I both gave you a thumbs up and subscribed as I so appreciate you sharing this and have shared it with builders I have worked with
You're the best teacher!
Perfect solution to the one open splice in my basement! Although it shows as currently unavailable through Amazon
So, that looks like a good idea. However, if the previous person was foolish enough to leave an open splice in the first place, would you trust that they adequately created the connections? When I see something done wrong I will always open it up and redo properly every time because I want to be certain it is safe and reliable.
If a person thinks he knows but actually doesn't he shouldn't be working with electrical bottom line .may God continue to bless all electricians in safety and there lives anyone's life can be cut short in the twinkling of a eye so take some time to do things the way they should.
You got that right, ALWAYS check others connections no matter what!!
This is a pretty handy product. I would use it. I know that you are trying to save attic exposure time, but since you are already there wouldn’t you recommend a quick inspection of the splicing itself? I would think that if there was any undetected resistance or corrosion inside a splice, moving it around could make it worse, or more dangerous.
Great video! I need to pick up a few of those boxes. I really learn a lot from your videos, thank you!
Yeah, too many are learning not to check what could possibly be a bad connection waiting to become a problem, not a good idea!
Nice product , a little pricey but good product none the less ... Thx
Such a no-brainer...why did it take so long to create this? Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your video i am looking for many videos only your video teaching easy ways to do it ❤
in old enough houses this was common as the code requiring splices to be done in boxes is only since the mid or late eighties, in attics.. under house and basement was late 70's.. But the new Wago Boxes etc are much smaller and safer than the old steel boxes.. where many people feel like they do not need the sheathing clamps to hold the wire but simply place into the metal holes..
In your case, a simple handybox with the hold downs internally and a blank cover would work fine- that box you show works, and the new wago box with three straightline wagos works.. Just mount the box and make sure it is sealed afterwards.. we are spoiled for ways to fix that now..
actually not true. Code has required splices to be in a box since K&T went away. (almost 100 years now) What you are explaining is LACK OF CODE ENFORCEMENT from inspectors in certain areas. That doesn't make it right!
Nice. I like the hexagonal shape and flexible mounting options.
Great video, thank you. I wish I had these a few weeks ago
Great product. Thanks for putting this information out there.
Love your knowledge and simple directions to follow. I have 1 question...installing resest wafer lights with connection box and wago connectors included.. how do you connect all the wires, and stuff them back in the box eithout cutting up your hands?
Awesome product and timesaver. Thank you
That is ingenious! Thanks for sharing.
definitely something the electrical industry has been needing for quite a while. not gonna lie, I've fabricated a few in a pinch.
This thing would also be super nice to be able to tap onto a circuit mid run without having to get to an existing outlet box. I've added an outlet or light in the attic and such before where I probably would have had enough loose wire for this thing but not a normal box. Usually I end up with 2 boxes one for the tap and one with just a splice to lengthen the wire.
One note you must also ensure the wires are stapled within 12” of the splice box.
Taping them wasn’t bad work back in the day; way back when in the days of knob and tube all connections was simply twisted and taped. That was how things were done.
any splices in the knob and tube wiring in the house I owned were also soldered. Never had an issue with any of it.
It was never OK to tape without solder or metal clamp of some type to insure an electrical connection.
If it helps The Boxes themselves specify "within 8 inches" on the label inside.
It's always good learning new stuff
That is fantastic! So simple.
That is very slick, a very clever device
This is a brilliant product. With an Oscillating Tool, you could cut tabs (wings) in the top of a standard box and save a trip to the hardware store.
You could but technically it’s against code to alter a box where the manufacturer does not list it as an option. Not saying it wouldn’t work just have to include that.
Got bushings for those new sharp notches? Got time to cut them notches?
@@kenovryn Deburr with a pocket knife. A trip to the hardware store takes me about an hour round trip. And I have a drawer full of electrical boxes already. Do you not have any problem solving skills?
Thought I found similar under different brand on Home Depot but they are out of stock! You make a great salesman!
If only someone would pay me for it then 😂
This is fantastic info. Thank you!
Wow look how lucky you were to have the regulation 6” of wire left after adding the box!
I will be grabbing a few of those Open Splice devices.
Thanks for showing this!
Again the US years behind the UK and Europe. These have been out here for over 15 years. I wonder how long it will take to adopt the WAGO 🤔
An excellent product. And about time!
Of course! Thanks for this Aha! product demo
That is a well designed, and useful new product!
Question: My house was built in 1970, here in Honolulu, and it has aluminum wiring throughout. I want to splice an extra wire off of an existing outlet. Can I splice copper ROMEX type wiring directly onto aluminum wiring? If so, how do I do this safely?
Mahalo(thank you)!
Hello and thank you in advance.
I need to create a splice (in a junction box) in an attic space on a 20 amp circuit (yellow romex) to add another length of yellow romex and a new GFIC outlet to a exterior porch ceiling. However the existing yellow romex is taut and would be difficult to create the junction. Any advice on how to splice into an already existing taut wire would be appreciated.
Hey great vid ..... question for you ..... does it state anywhere in code that wires running in an attic have to be in conduit ?
I checked my attic and luckily I dont have any of these open splices
No, not normally but I dont know your situation so you would want to check on that and check with your local codes as well.
🎉 I'm a big Rak A Tiers fan with great interest in new products
Cool!
That's pretty slick. In combination with Wago inline connectors you could do one of those very quickly.
What if who-ever did the original open-splice did you no favors and didn't leave you enough slack? Which way should you go - splice in a small segment of wire, or pull one side completely and replace?
Two separate boxes maybe?
Yes, that's the usual thing I have found. In that case, you end up installing a box at one cable, adding a short length of cable from its opposite side, and installing a second box to connect the short length and other cable in.
about time they have a product to fix other folks idiocy! I hate finding open splices and worse yet is finding them buried in insulation or middle of the wall.
over the years I've found many live receptacles, switches and boxes buried in walls, ceilings, floors, even behind the tiled showers or knob and tube ran around, near or touching cast iron tubs! who in their right mind does that stupid of things.
the homeowners were wondering why they felt tingling like an electric shock, yes they were getting shocked, sometimes at pretty high current.
Could you use this with MC? My house is older it has MC cable throughout most of it , I found some open connections in my attic where I used junction boxes to cover the open connections
Thanks for the great video, didn’t know about these.
Wow! This is amazing!
Great info, well done!
Great find! Thank you!
Very cool box and very handy. Too bad it is currently unavailable on Amazon 😥
Available at any electrical wholesaler that carries Rack-A-Tiers.
Question from someone who just found an open splice: when adding a box, that houses the open splice, does this box have to be accessible?
It might be a dumb question to some, but I think a handy man I hired said it was ok to patch over (these boxes) with dry wall.
I have an open splice in my attic on a cable that is string across space, not along rafters (taking a shorter route). The splice is no where near wood. So I am thinking I need to make this two splices with two boxes, by cutting and splicing in a box at one point where wood is accessible, and then splice in a longer length that runs to the next point where I have wood access. There install a box and make the second splice. Does this sound like a good fix?
Add a board across the gap to support the box.
That's stellar!
Awesome content, Thank you .
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I've always fixed a situation like this the first way and it's a perfect opportunity to add an outlet just because you never know when an outlet in an odd place will come in handy.
Also that second solution is a nice fast easy way. I'd bet it's been invented for many years probably took forever to get all the certifications needed... Red tape bs.
Per UL it only takes 6 months to get a product listed if you supply a working prototype. Not sure how long it takes to get NEC approval on new products.
Thank you for the video. It's good information.
Nice cool little new product there!
No strain relief for the cables, which now appear to be under tension?
No strain and no more tension than many other plastic junction boxes.
Yep, I have the same issues at my daughters home which I’m addressing.
Awesome !!!! Keeper coming.
I could have used one of these many times. Now I can. Thanks.
Two comments,
Junction boxes must be accessible.
Do a trial first, before mounting to be sure you are positioned correctly, and have enough sheathed wire going into the box on both sides to be code compliant.
As always, super great !
Best time to be in the attic is between 4am-7am😊
Nice, easy!! Great information thanks!!
For real. Best box ever.