To put some context to the pistons - mid-late 70s 440s have pistons that are .150-.160" down in the hole. They are rated around 8.2:1 give or take, but in reality are < 8:1 as Andy said.
That's a shitload of metal to take off! Why not just turn it into a lo block? Destroy the block and take off over .170' of metal to keep the lowest compression pistons ever made for that engine? As much as you cut off the block or heads you'll need to trash the intake and take more off that. Just do it right and buy new pistons. It's a hell of a lot cheaper.
Do you plan on doing any more videos about your low comp 440? I really enjoyed this one. A complete series of your 440 build would be very interesting to see.
This can be done on many engines, not just Mopars. It works. Something many people dont realize. On some engines the wrist pin bore on the piston is not centered.
Its not only the pistons that matter on there height but its the chambers in the heads. 906 or 915 castings on your heads are what you want. I wouldn't worry about balance , hone your cylinders as long as the runout doesn't exceed 3 thousands then put it together
First thing you should have done to them connecting rods as polished side of the beam to get rid of the seam that's a stress crack that's a place where the rod will eventually break is because of them stress once and then you wouldn't have so much to take off you got to measure the pig in and you got to miss you little and separately to make sure you got it balanced until you get that configured you're just making a mess out of your motor
Plus, all grinding and then polishing should be in line with the rod shank, not at right angles. Andy is going to learn about stress risers when a rod breaks.
You really run them tighter than .030" seems pretty tight for a pump gas street engine with OEM style parts. The tolerance stack was not as consistent as things are today. Sounds like a lot of extra work for minimal gain on a low rpm low compression street engine.
That is NOT how you balance an assembly. There is a balance for the large and small end of the rod, not just for total weight. What you have done is made a huge mess out of it. Your motor is going to have a huge balance issue now. Do your research dude.
No it won’t. While I may not like the removal of the top of the small end of the rod as long as all the piston and rod assemblies are the same give or take a couple 10’ths of a gram they will be fine. For a mild compression mild cam engine this is just fine. Would I do it this way for an all out race engine? Hell no! But this will be fine for many years to come.
I was more concerned with the grinding of the connecting rod and not cooling it every few seconds. Seems like this would anneal it or something so one of the first times you give it the juice it may throw a rod through the block!?
@@wht240sxka I doubt you'll get it hot enough with a bench grinder to change any metallurgy. It's not getting anywhere as hot as the torch heating to press the piston pins in.
@@furyfantoo haha clearly you have never used a bench grinder. Ever ground a knife or rounded an edge of some metal? Can get cherry red hot in a matter of seconds. That is changing the metallurgy dude…
Meal ahead to make the combustion chamber is smaller gets flat top pistons with release for the valves put a big jam in there and have fun dome Pistons create a problem with the flame front until the dome is out of the way so it Rob's horsepower flat top pistons is the best way to go you can still accomplish 15 to 16 to 1 by milling the heads and making the combustion chamber or smaller
Hands down one of the funniest videos on RUclips. You guys are gonna get tons of views with this stuff !! Purely genius
If you cut a large washer put in between rod and piston to support so your not squeezing piston helps a lot and don't damage piston
To put some context to the pistons - mid-late 70s 440s have pistons that are .150-.160" down in the hole. They are rated around 8.2:1 give or take, but in reality are < 8:1 as Andy said.
I like the high tech tools at the end!
Cool budget work... You earned my sub.
Deck the block until the pistons hang .010 out of the hole and mill the heads to boot, another easy point of compression in that upgrade.
That's a shitload of metal to take off! Why not just turn it into a lo block? Destroy the block and take off over .170' of metal to keep the lowest compression pistons ever made for that engine? As much as you cut off the block or heads you'll need to trash the intake and take more off that. Just do it right and buy new pistons. It's a hell of a lot cheaper.
Do you plan on doing any more videos about your low comp 440?
I really enjoyed this one. A complete series of your 440 build would be very interesting to see.
yeah man! Once I have enough money to finish it I will post more about what cam/heads/tq converter I used. I appreciate it!
@@andysspeedshop7148 Awesome! Looking forward to it!
And,, turning the pistons around on the rod reverses the factory dampening effect sending your 440 into higher rpms quicker.
This can be done on many engines, not just Mopars. It works. Something many people dont realize. On some engines the wrist pin bore on the piston is not centered.
How did the engine turn out? Wheres the follow up video?
Backyard mechanics learn through their mistakes. We’ve all been there….long before RUclips..if there was such a time.
Its not only the pistons that matter on there height but its the chambers in the heads. 906 or 915 castings on your heads are what you want. I wouldn't worry about balance , hone your cylinders as long as the runout doesn't exceed 3 thousands then put it together
Great video!
would know where i could get a set? got a 77 or 78 440 that is in amazing shape all it needs are those pistons
changing the pistons; what a novel idea!
The idea is where to find dirt cheap ones and how to make them work without a machine shop
First thing you should have done to them connecting rods as polished side of the beam to get rid of the seam that's a stress crack that's a place where the rod will eventually break is because of them stress once and then you wouldn't have so much to take off you got to measure the pig in and you got to miss you little and separately to make sure you got it balanced until you get that configured you're just making a mess out of your motor
What?
Dafuq? You have no clue what you are talking about.
Plus, all grinding and then polishing should be in line with the rod shank, not at right angles. Andy is going to learn about stress risers when a rod breaks.
Zero deck the block and get the quench under .030” and that wakes a RB right up!!
You really run them tighter than .030" seems pretty tight for a pump gas street engine with OEM style parts. The tolerance stack was not as consistent as things are today. Sounds like a lot of extra work for minimal gain on a low rpm low compression street engine.
That is NOT how you balance an assembly. There is a balance for the large and small end of the rod, not just for total weight. What you have done is made a huge mess out of it. Your motor is going to have a huge balance issue now. Do your research dude.
No it won’t. While I may not like the removal of the top of the small end of the rod as long as all the piston and rod assemblies are the same give or take a couple 10’ths of a gram they will be fine. For a mild compression mild cam engine this is just fine. Would I do it this way for an all out race engine? Hell no! But this will be fine for many years to come.
Weight match. Is 1st then balance
I was more concerned with the grinding of the connecting rod and not cooling it every few seconds. Seems like this would anneal it or something so one of the first times you give it the juice it may throw a rod through the block!?
@@wht240sxka I doubt you'll get it hot enough with a bench grinder to change any metallurgy. It's not getting anywhere as hot as the torch heating to press the piston pins in.
@@furyfantoo haha clearly you have never used a bench grinder. Ever ground a knife or rounded an edge of some metal? Can get cherry red hot in a matter of seconds. That is changing the metallurgy dude…
Put Closed chamber heads on
Did you put a higher compression height piston in vs the stock ones?
yes in 1968 the advertised CR was 10:1 I believe. when I ran the numbers with my set up it was 9.2:1 but still a lot better than stock
So what happened ? did it run ?
What did the compression raise too?
I have to look back at my notes but I think it came out to 9.2:1 but i could get it a lot higher by having the heads milled down or decking the block
You forgot to add assembly lube.
Genius
it would have cost less than 10 bucks to make a stand for next to the scale so you can weigh big end and small end.
Smart move,great to see someone use their head for something other than to grow hair! Lol.
Quality
Meal ahead to make the combustion chamber is smaller gets flat top pistons with release for the valves put a big jam in there and have fun dome Pistons create a problem with the flame front until the dome is out of the way so it Rob's horsepower flat top pistons is the best way to go you can still accomplish 15 to 16 to 1 by milling the heads and making the combustion chamber or smaller
Nice blueprint😅
Said absolutely nothing about how to increase compression, WTH?
the 440 magnum pistons have more compression height.
Smart move,great to see someone use their head for something other than to grow hair! Lol.