You did a great job reviewing the options out there and all are very expensive, I was assembling my suspension last night and I am going with the PST 1.03 torsion bars, and their lower control arm stiffening plates, I also use all of the polygraphite bushings which sometime end up being pretty noisy despite the the silicon grease that they provide. In this car I am running a firm feel stage 2 power steering box as well. Steer and Gear also make a similar steering box in varying degrees of road feedback. I bought one of their units when another firm feel box failed and they would not warranty it. I have also installed the US Tool sub frame connectors and torque boxes, they are really an improvement that is very noticeable especially in my B-body convertible. I am installing a 6.4 Hemi with the 8HP70 automatic in that car. Most of the parts I have bought for that conversion are from Holly. I am seriously interested in the QA1 system and I guess time will tell if I can pull that off or not. Thanks again for highlighting what is out there in one well done post. I
I have a TVS ON MY '66 Barracuda, a Mosser rear end, B-Body rear leaf springs. It handles really well. I run Auto-Cross with it, usually the only A-Body there.
I decided to go with the ENTIRE QA1 front suspension including the K-member, but I am using SPC UCAs for the additional adjustment range. EVERY coilover conversion is expensive, and I'm setting up for street/drag race. Carl GERST is the designer who brought the coilover front suspension to QA1. They are working together now.
I was told the QA1 k member is wobbly idk but my gut really tells me to stay with torsion bars and leaf springs. Just get it beefed up which is why I’m here. Thank you.
Adding the rear sway bar along with polyurethane bushings completely transformed the car for me. It's so fun sliding the car around corners with the accelerator pedal. I think what would benefit me the most at this point would be modern wheels and tires. I completely rebuilt the suspension, and I have only driven about 10,000 miles since then, but it's been thirty years!
Sounds like your off to a good start! My car doesn’t have any sway bars yet lol. Modern tires will really help yo allow you to really use the suspension
Good morning. Just watched your video. Nice comparison of all the Mopar suspension systems and k members. I also subscribed. Thanks for sharing. Take care, EM. Also, I am doing the US Car Tool right now in a '68 Dart. Purchased the whole package. Perfect for my rotisserie build. Nice package.
Here in New Zealand there is a former race driver by the name of Leo Leonard ' who raced the Valiant Chargers here and in Australia in the early 1970's . To get the Charger to be a good racer he did a lot of experimentation and development ' especially as far as handling was concerned ' his setup as I recall was a sway bar on the front but not the rear ' rubber bushings and not nolathane ' good shocks ' and perhaps the most interesting thing was that he came up with his own wheel alignment settings that worked very well on the track ' he also came up with a good wheel alignment setting for street Chargers ' or in fact any Valiant ' I had my Valiants alignment set to his street recommendation and it made a huge difference to the quality of the steering and stability ' I'd say his settings would most likely apply to any mopar of that era . Those settings are in the book "Hey Charger" by Gavin Farmer . If you cant get hold of the book 'I've got the specs written down in my service manual. Just ask.
Thats good to hear, I will have to look for his book. I know alignments can be very car specific. I did a lot of research when I had my car aligned after all my suspension upgrades. Night and day. I am curious how our settings would compare. You can see what settings I went with in my video ruclips.net/video/yueazPyk28o/видео.html
@@backyardhotrods9885 Our Valiant A bodies are just the same as yours in the suspension and steering (except for a different steering box location) so if A body wheel alignment spec's are the same as B 'C and E bodies????? ' I dont know . Our later Valiants are more like B body size' a bit like a Sattelite. I know I keep mentioning Valiants ' thats because they were the only mopars we had on offer' except for some specially ordered 60 s Belvedere's and Savoy's etc .
I have a '68 Barracuda fastback here. Why the heck would I want to go away from my torsion bars, which keep my cg low, towards the centerline of the car, and more rearwards compared to the coilovers? I can always swap out my 0.820" torsion bars for my 1.06" torsion bars, and reattach the front sway bar if I want to drive more than 1/4 mile at a time. Also, the QA1 coil over kit is set up with power steering, I don't do that. Why do I want to step away from my 002/003 super stock springs? They *work.* Good video, but it has not sold me on the new technologies. If you can show solid data, X part changed out gave me 0.1 improvement in my 1/4 mile, or Y part changed out gave me more consistent 60 times, that would be very helpful.
Hey man we think alike, if you watch my other videos I went with larger torsion bars and I’m keeping my leaf springs too ! I just wanted to show what’s out there I think it’s pretty kool we have so many options now 👍
I have seen some quality issues with their products over the years. In the end I prefer stock style suspension. Leaf springs and torsion bars can perform very well, I like keeping things simple and costs down and not over complicating things when I can.
Thanks man! The Hotchkis springs that I just picked up are actually 3 leaf. They will lower the car an inch though. Depending what your looking for. I will be installing those soon.
@@backyardhotrods9885 yes, those are nice I hear. Really helps the handling and stance. I’m debating on the 2 inch lift, old school status. I’m not sure if I can get that lift with only the air shocks. I’ll do more research.
Anyone wondering, the RMS kits is pretty much 100% bolt in. Only welding is a couple brackets on the rear. I'm installing this kit now. No offense but this video is a little misleading.
The coil over setups offer ZERO advantage over a well sorted torsion bar based suspension. They cost too much, they aren't as durable, the geometry is not better and you still need brakes!
Thanks for the suspension options. Glad to see you favor the stock style suspension.
I might be fulfilling my dream of getting a 1970-1974 Barracuda. Your video is certainly a guide to return to.
Good luck man I hope it works out for you! Thanks for the kind words
You did a great job reviewing the options out there and all are very expensive, I was assembling my suspension last night and I am going with the PST 1.03 torsion bars, and their lower control arm stiffening plates, I also use all of the polygraphite bushings which sometime end up being pretty noisy despite the the silicon grease that they provide. In this car I am running a firm feel stage 2 power steering box as well. Steer and Gear also make a similar steering box in varying degrees of road feedback. I bought one of their units when another firm feel box failed and they would not warranty it. I have also installed the US Tool sub frame connectors and torque boxes, they are really an improvement that is very noticeable especially in my B-body convertible. I am installing a 6.4 Hemi with the 8HP70 automatic in that car. Most of the parts I have bought for that conversion are from Holly. I am seriously interested in the QA1 system and I guess time will tell if I can pull that off or not. Thanks again for highlighting what is out there in one well done post. I
Thanks! I really like the parts you chose for your car sounds very well thought out. Any videos of it?
I have a TVS ON MY '66 Barracuda, a Mosser rear end, B-Body rear leaf springs. It handles really well.
I run Auto-Cross with it, usually the only A-Body there.
Very nice, how long have you been running it?
@@backyardhotrods9885 Started last year, just local events. Lots to learn, both with the car and technique.
I decided to go with the ENTIRE QA1 front suspension including the K-member, but I am using SPC UCAs for the additional adjustment range. EVERY coilover conversion is expensive, and I'm setting up for street/drag race. Carl GERST is the designer who brought the coilover front suspension to QA1. They are working together now.
I’ve heard good things about that setup!
I was told the QA1 k member is wobbly idk but my gut really tells me to stay with torsion bars and leaf springs. Just get it beefed up which is why I’m here. Thank you.
@@pmp2559 that would be my suggestion 👍
Adding the rear sway bar along with polyurethane bushings completely transformed the car for me. It's so fun sliding the car around corners with the accelerator pedal. I think what would benefit me the most at this point would be modern wheels and tires. I completely rebuilt the suspension, and I have only driven about 10,000 miles since then, but it's been thirty years!
Sounds like your off to a good start! My car doesn’t have any sway bars yet lol. Modern tires will really help yo allow you to really use the suspension
Great video! 😊
Good morning.
Just watched your video.
Nice comparison of all the Mopar suspension systems and k members.
I also subscribed.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, EM.
Also, I am doing the US Car Tool right now in a '68 Dart.
Purchased the whole package.
Perfect for my rotisserie build.
Nice package.
Thanks for subscribing and glad you enjoyed the video. I really appreciate it!
Here in New Zealand there is a former race driver by the name of Leo Leonard ' who raced the Valiant Chargers here and in Australia in the early 1970's . To get the Charger to be a good racer he did a lot of experimentation and development ' especially as far as handling was concerned ' his setup as I recall was a sway bar on the front but not the rear ' rubber bushings and not nolathane ' good shocks ' and perhaps the most interesting thing was that he came up with his own wheel alignment settings that worked very well on the track ' he also came up with a good wheel alignment setting for street Chargers ' or in fact any Valiant ' I had my Valiants alignment set to his street recommendation and it made a huge difference to the quality of the steering and stability ' I'd say his settings would most likely apply to any mopar of that era . Those settings are in the book "Hey Charger" by Gavin Farmer . If you cant get hold of the book 'I've got the specs written down in my service manual. Just ask.
Thats good to hear, I will have to look for his book. I know alignments can be very car specific. I did a lot of research when I had my car aligned after all my suspension upgrades. Night and day. I am curious how our settings would compare. You can see what settings I went with in my video ruclips.net/video/yueazPyk28o/видео.html
@@backyardhotrods9885 Our Valiant A bodies are just the same as yours in the suspension and steering (except for a different steering box location) so if A body wheel alignment spec's are the same as B 'C and E bodies????? ' I dont know . Our later Valiants are more like B body size' a bit like a Sattelite. I know I keep mentioning Valiants ' thats because they were the only mopars we had on offer' except for some specially ordered 60 s Belvedere's and Savoy's etc .
That photo you've used of Posey's Challenger and Gurney's Cuda (or was it Swede Savage?) could be considered the best racing photo of all time .
@@barrycuda3769 Its a classic for sure, one of my favorites!
I have a '68 Barracuda fastback here. Why the heck would I want to go away from my torsion bars, which keep my cg low, towards the centerline of the car, and more rearwards compared to the coilovers? I can always swap out my 0.820" torsion bars for my 1.06" torsion bars, and reattach the front sway bar if I want to drive more than 1/4 mile at a time. Also, the QA1 coil over kit is set up with power steering, I don't do that. Why do I want to step away from my 002/003 super stock springs? They *work.*
Good video, but it has not sold me on the new technologies. If you can show solid data, X part changed out gave me 0.1 improvement in my 1/4 mile, or Y part changed out gave me more consistent 60 times, that would be very helpful.
Hey man we think alike, if you watch my other videos I went with larger torsion bars and I’m keeping my leaf springs too ! I just wanted to show what’s out there I think it’s pretty kool we have so many options now 👍
Firmfeel makes the torsion bars in-house and they race what they sell
@backyardhotrods What are your thoughts on the magnum force transformer handling kit for B body charger?
I have seen some quality issues with their products over the years. In the end I prefer stock style suspension. Leaf springs and torsion bars can perform very well, I like keeping things simple and costs down and not over complicating things when I can.
Nice variety of packages.
Thanks Mitch, glad you checked out the channel!
Enjoyed our conversation it was a great help
Awesome video very informative! Great to have several options for each persons build. For me, debating on the 5 leaf or 6 leaf for my 70 Challenger.
Thanks man! The Hotchkis springs that I just picked up are actually 3 leaf. They will lower the car an inch though. Depending what your looking for. I will be installing those soon.
@@backyardhotrods9885 yes, those are nice I hear. Really helps the handling and stance. I’m debating on the 2 inch lift, old school status. I’m not sure if I can get that lift with only the air shocks. I’ll do more research.
There are very little mods to do to put the RMS Street lynx rear suspension in. It’s a fairly straightforward install actually.
Are you using one? Do you like it?
@@backyardhotrods9885 I have one but haven’t installed it yet. Waiting to build a garage before I working on my car again.
@@martyschmidt2725 I can understand that…. I could really use more space
@@backyardhotrods9885 I was supposed to build one this summer, 20’x32’ but increasing building costs put the price $8000 over budget.
@@martyschmidt2725 yeah at my pace I will have my car done and then build a garage 😂
Thank you.
Do these Mopar coilover have the same ride quality as stock? And can they go lower than 1.25 like maybe 2.0
@@ericwatler23 very different feel. All depends on the spring rate of the clovers bs the torsion bar size.
Anyone wondering, the RMS kits is pretty much 100% bolt in. Only welding is a couple brackets on the rear. I'm installing this kit now. No offense but this video is a little misleading.
All great but nothing for the C-body.
The coil over setups offer ZERO advantage over a well sorted torsion bar based suspension.
They cost too much, they aren't as durable, the geometry is not better and you still need brakes!
I am not a fan of the coil over offerings either, thats why I went with torsion bars and still have leaf springs on my cuda! And it handles amazing!