Choose the BEST Strike Indicator...to Catch MORE Fish!
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- With so many options out there, Tim Cammisa breaks down his favorite strike indicators and when to use each.
Links referenced:
FAVORITE Indicators: app.rockpor.ch/l/xzhFIo2D2Xg46
Ghosttech: ghostechsi.com/
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Tim Cammisa of “Trout and Feather” has been a RUclips creator of fly tying and fly fishing videos for over seven years. He is a featured presenter and tier at events such as the The Fly Fishing Show, International Fly Tying Symposium and Midwest Fly Fishing Expo, and has traveled around the country helping others improve their fly fishing and fly tying skills. Author of "Fly Tying for Everyone," Tim has taken his passion to a new level. Tim lives in Harmony, Pennsylvania, with his wife Heather and their two children.
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#flyfishing #fishing #strikeindicator #timcammisa #euronymphing #airlock #bobber 
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Excellent summary - I would add that yarn indicators (my usual preference) don't work in sub-freezing temperatures. I carry a few airlocks for cold and snowy days,
Great thoughts, Jeff, thanks for pointing that out. I have used the NZ indicator for steelhead in some cold temps, but ensure it has a water-shedding material on it to prevent freezing. In cold weather, everything changes! Hope you're well. Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Fishing Oros with a drop shot rig. Smallest in shallow or slow water , med with faster , deeper water.
Very helpful, especially your comments about the dry dropper rig and where you tie the dry fly. I will be changing how I tie my rig. Thanks.
You're welcome, Mel, glad this helped you out! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Thanks for the lesson Tim!!
You're welcome, Alex, thanks so much for the kind words and all of the sharing you do of my content via your social media. It's appreciated! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Good Sunday Tim,great video,glad you mentioned the yarn indicators,the only ones I approve of!! Lol, honestly the high pressured normally clear waters I fish here in north central Pa sometimes ALOT of times just the fly line leader landing will spook fish, so I just grease my sighter ,but yeah off color high water bobbers are Awesome
Thanks for the kind words, and I love to chase those spooky fish! Floating leaders are excellent choices, too, especially in low water. Hope all is well! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Totally agree that there is a time and place for indicators. Most of the hard indicators you and others mention (Airlock, Oros, Corqs, Thingamabobbers, etc. can be thrown quite effectively with a micro leader, although the casting is less than elegant. I find that the yarn indicators, the NZ wool, etc. are awfully air-resistant to throw on a micro leader, unless the fly is heavier, like 3 mm tungsten bead or greater, and then the bushy indicator doesn't want to float well. One unmentioned option are the football shaped pinch on foam indicators. They are very light and don't splash, but they are much more aerodynamic than yarn, and will cast a good deal further on a micro leader. They aren't adjustable to any degree, but they can occasionally save the day. I found the Ghostech indicators to be very stealthy, but extremely air-resistant and uncastable on a micro-leader. If one moves to more of a mono-rig system, ala Dom Swentosky, with a much heavier butt section to the leader, the more air-resistant indicators cast much better, but then you get more sag on tight line rigs and can't tight line as far away. Tradeoffs.
I love that you ended with "Tradeoffs!" Your insights are truly appreciated, as you brought up some great points. Every decision impacts so many other aspects of this, especially when talking Euro nymphing. I can tell you are down the Euro rabbit hole, too...thanks so much for the discussion! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I guide on Lake Taneycomo tailwater in Branson, MO. When they are not generating we fish alot of midges and micro scuds/sowbugs in very skinny slow current. I use the coating off of old mono core fly lines(core stripped out). Rio makes a foam cylinder similar style indicator called the Kahuna. This type indy isn't really adjustable on the fly but depth can be changed with the use of a tippet knot. Personally I slide it up my leader till it snugs up most of the time. Works great when swinging small flies on a semi tight line in very slow current. Stealthy and deadly.
Thanks for sharing, Darren, and that style of indicator sounds like a great one. Plus the fishing sounds even more fun! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I’ve been enjoying Biostrike lately - it is high vis. and very lightweight and customizable in amount of floatation and shape (being that it’s a putty). The best of those attributes is that it’s self-weight is so minimal that you can easily hold it off the water surface and it won’t create much, if any, sag in your line so you essentially switch to tight-lining without having to remove the Biostrike.
Thanks so much for sharing, I'll have to check it out! Is there a color you prefer? Thanks! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
@@TimCammisa the Loon product comes in neon yellow and pink, and like a oros you can do half and half
I haven't tried the ghostech but like the others you mentioned. One that I like almost as much as the NZ wool for light stuff [and faster to put on] is the very small 3/8" Corq. When I want to try a run a few feet farther when euro nymphing a 2mm-2.5mm beads I'll put one on real fast. Probably like the Loon wool you're using.
Thanks for the thoughts, Bill, and that's one I haven't used (but have seen). I'll be sure to check them out. Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I use indicators a lot, predominantly New Zealand indicators. They are the best for spooky fish. However there are some things you can tweak to make them more successful.
The first is to use real sheep wool. Replace the synthetic wool that comes in the original packaging with the real stuff. Sheep wool floats better than synthetic, hands down, end of story. Also remember, you do need to gink the wool or synthetic. It's a must for aiding in the flotation.
The second point is using the correct size tubing. The original package tubing is best for smaller flies. You can buy the extra large tubing for your larger flies. This is a must, trust me. I frequently use size 10 tungsten beaded nymphs with two split shots under the New Zealand using the the extra large tubing and it holds the fly up and floats no issue.
Lastly, I cut about an 1/8 of an inch of tubing for my indicators. I then use my forceps and slide the tubing over the tip and open the forceps to stretch the tubing. This makes it easier to slide the tubing over the clump of wool when making the indicator. Doing this has saved my sanity. Lol
I think if you give these tips a try you'll be hugely successful when using the New Zealand indicator system. You'll also save yourself some aggravation.
Bobby, thanks for the thorough thoughts on the NZ indicator...it sounds like you have some excellent experience with it! You mention it is best for spooky fish, which I agree completely. Do you ever use it as a general indicator? If so, how heavy of a fly do you use with this setup? Thanks! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Where do you get the "real" wool?
Hi Tim. Thanks for your educational video on strike indicators. The air-lock concerns me on possibilities of line/ tippet damage/ weakening especially w/tightening the cap 2 pinching the line in place especially if u need 2 adj depth. God Bless n fish on!
Hi Richard, there are actually rubber o-rings inside that "pinch" against your line, hence no worries about the weakening of line. As a reference, I use mine on 7x frequently with no problems. Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I've used airlock for yrs, and never had an issue with damaging my tippet whether I'm using 4x or 7x. It has a rubber piece on it that keeps it from that. You don't have to tighten it all that tight, just snug and no problem movin it either and it dosest kink ur line. I also like the plastic airlock better than the newer foam ones. The plastic casted better and landed softer. But i can't find the plastic anymore.
No idea of what you've presented with the floaters/indicators but I have this burning desire from WV to learn the art of fly fishing. Is there a seminar or school in PA ?
Hi Joseph, I would start by checking out a local fly shop in WV. Shoot me an email and I can recommend one in your area: tcammisa@gmail.com Thanks, you'll love fly fishing! Tim
I liked the Ghost Tech, but I found that if you use them with heavier nymphs the air bubbles can bust on impact with the water.
Oh wow, Jeremy, I have yet to have that happen! Was that with a single or double puck? Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I enjoyed your reviews of many indicators. I used to fly fish a lot back in the 80’s with spin casting gear and used clear floats ( as I called em) with tippets or lighter weight lines added to fly side of the line to fish high mountain lakes and in bigger streams or rivers with tremendous results. I’m gearing up to get back at it with spin casting equipment and I think a lot of the new indicators will be great. Some of the ones I used to use could have water added to them for weight so they could be casted further. Are there any such indicators in existence nowadays?
Yes they are still out there. I would look online. If your local shop does not carry them. Good luck!
Tim, what make is that beauty of a reel on this video? Looks like it has decent line retrieving capacity, which i appreciate for euro style nymphing. And is that a Cortland braid euro line is see?
Hi Charles, that reel is a limited edition one from Hanak...HIGHLY recommended. It's a Hanak Superb RS 35. I'm unsure if you can find it in the US, but shoot me an email and I can get you more information: tcammisa@gmail.com Re: the fly line, I love Cortland Euro lines, especially braid. Thanks for the questions. Tim
I use the foam indicators it’s kind of like the loon tip toppers but made out of thin foam stripping I’m not sure if you can buy them I just make mine using rubber O rings and a thin white foam sheet pretty basic lol
Basic yet effective, thanks for sharing! I'd love to see a picture of them: tcammisa@gmail.com Thanks! Tim
Hello, a question, how do you manage to cast, for example, a dry dropper with euronimph system ? many thanks from Chile
Hi Miguel, it's a different type of cast. For me, it started with a water load cast, then I progressed to an actual casting stroke. Keep in mind that we're using lighter rods...which require less weight to load. Now that I fish a micro-thin leader, I am employing the oval cast a lot. Hope this helps! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
if I use an indicator I like a small amount of yarn with gink! I can still double haul long casts,roll cast, etc
The New Zealand indicator is a favorite of mine, too, thanks! Tim www.troutandfeather.com
One fit all. Or do I need multiple ones?
Depends on which indicator, as I carry about 15 different indicators in various sizes and colors on the water. So many indicators, such little time! All going well with you, Russell? Tim www.troutandfeather.com
Problem with their switch to biodegradable that they changed to is that they break down pretty quick. Doesn't matter so much for Trout where you're using it all year but when you size up to Steelhead 3/4" and don't use them for a year or two or have some leftover that carry over - they start to leak at the neck where they break down. That problem never occurred with the non-biodegradable version. Just saying - I've been using them for Steelhead since they existed a long time ago and I absolutely stand by that statement. Because I can't have that happening when I'm in the river with no chance to go back to my vehicle to restock because of losing position on the river (yes the western NY sh!t-show) I moved to Oros. It's not so much that they leaked a little but a little when you have a lot of shot on in the Great Lakes tribs - is not an option. Having said that - I still you airlocks for regular Trout streams but only when I'm too lazy to rig up my New Zealand wool.
Thanks for the thoughts, Angelo, and I'll keep an eye-out for the deterioration. Unlike you, I've yet to have that happen, so I'm curious if it's occurred for others? Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I agree. I've used airlocks for yrs, and the plastic ones were alot better. Easier to cast in my opinion and landed softer.
You didn't include the original fly bobber the thingamabobber. Still my go to.
Hi Matthew, and no, I didn't. The original one I used has a stopper that pushes the line against the side, whereas other versions have you create a loop through and around the indicator. Both ways, especially the latter, create a significant kink in my line. Adjusting the placement creates more kinks, thus reducing the line strength and not allowing for a straight cast. That's been my experience, hence why I now use other indicators. Have you seen this happen to your line? Tim www.troutandfeather.com
I love thingamabobbers, but I rig them like a Dorsey. First, tie a piece of thin yarn or floss to the bobber, with a knot a the end. Then use a dental band and tie it on your leader like you would for a Dorsey. Then tighten the leader loop around the short piece of floss. Now you have an easily adjustable thingamabobber system that doesn't kind your leader.@@TimCammisa
Still a bobber
Ha ha, you can call it whatever you like! Do you use indicators, err, bobbers? If so, what's your favorite type? Tim www.troutandfeather.com