It was 100% the main bearings. Bearing 1&2 were completely wiped out, 3 was pretty much toast, and the rest all had extreme wear. My guess is the car was ran low on oil before I owned it. The failed 1&2 bearings also allowed the balancer to wobble around as well, leading me to believe it was that. But pulling the oil pan (which only takes about 30 min) revealed the truth. To fix, I pulled the engine and rebuilt everything. Being in the US it was very hard to find some of the internal components, but the machine shop I use helped me track down some of the harder to find pieces. The bearings I used were for other applications but the dimensions were the same as the M57 ones, same with the rings, seems to be holding up great. I also did a bunch of upgrades while it was apart, like studs, cams, springs, fuel system stuff, etc. Car is running fantastic now, using a custom tune I made, I just changed out the break-in oil and no signs of abnormal wear. My next project is trying to adapt an aftermarket LP turbo and try to get a little more airflow through this thing 😁.
@@spiv5ter874 I had to find a new block and crank. The old one could've been saved with a bunch of expensive machine work but a friend of mine had a good core that I bought instead. If you only count the gaskets, rings, bearings, etc, it was probably around $1000 for the spare motor and parts. I did all the work myself aside from having my local machine shop clean the block and hone the cylinders. I also added studs, stage 2 cams, valve springs, R90, and a big FMIC during the rebuild. I made up custom charge pipes with v-band connections, replaced motor mounts, and probably other things I'm forgetting, but I also knew I would be pushing this thing down the road.
@wnw000 - I got rid of my 640d had enough of the issues that kept coming with it. Had a number of M cars too. Decided to buy something totally different this time around! Going to stay away from BMWs for a few years.
I had hoped it would be anything but the bottom end. Interestingly enough, in the time since I filmed this I've personally seen this happen to two other M57s locally. They both were higher mileage though, and leaked a lot of oil. I think people just get lazy and let their 250k mile engines with tunes maxing the stock injectors out run low on oil.
I have the same exact noise but strangely enough only when the car is hot. No noise at all when it’s cold. You go for a drive, park it and the noise is there. Let it sit for an hour, start it up again and no noise. Thoughts?
If it's internal like my engine was, my guess would be something is just starting to fail, and when the internals are cold the clearances + thicker cold oil is enough to hide the noise. Once warm, the metals expand and the oil thins enough to make the sound more pronounced. If that's the case I'd try to find time to drop the front subframe and oil pan ASAP. You can do it in just an hour or two, and you might be able to get away with just replacing some bearings if the crank/rods/block aren't damaged yet.
is there a way I can open up a direct line of communication with you?? I would like to run a couple things by you and get your thoughts since you are very familiar with the m57 platform. Im having a similar slight wobble in my new FAI damper and was just looking to get a second opinion
Sure! I added my email to this youtube profile, you should be able to contact me through that. I apologize for not just putting it here in the comments, I'm hoping less spammers will scrape it this way.
@@aqib2000 Back when I posted this video I had replaced the balancer, which was both visibly failing and the knocking got much quieter, so I assumed that was the issue. A couple weeks after that I noticed I could still here a faint but distinct knock sound that was still there and getting worse. I thought maybe I had gotten a bad dampener, but after more diagnosing I pulled the oil pan off and discovered the 1-3 main bearings were toast.
Just bought a 335d drove it 300 miles and it had a rod knock wity metal in the oil filter. Did you need to replace turbos or any other auxiliaries? Cheers
When I fixed mine I replaced all the gaskets, rings, and bearings. I did not replace turbos or the oil pump/pickup as they were still in good condition, but I did disassemble them and clean everything thoroughly. The block was cleaned and honed at a machine shop. I also chose to replace the water pump, thermostat, timing chains and guides, and the valve springs. That stuff wouldn't necessarily have to be replaced but it wasn't a lot of extra cost in the grand scheme of things and a lot easier to do when it's all apart. I'm actually in process of rebuilding a 3rd M57 now. Not for this car, I've just really gotten in to the BMW diesels. If you're in the US it can be hard and expensive to get the correct bearings. I used rod bearings for another application that were the exact same dimensions, they just needed the tangs modified slightly. Similar story with the main bearings. Let me know if you want more information and I can look for the part numbers or maybe just post up another video on all the little tricks I've found for these. Good luck, reach out if you need anything and I'll do my best to respond.
My car has 210,000 miles on it. When I replaced the balancer I also tuned and deleted it, replaced glow plugs, did a bunch of other maintenance. It's definitely the crank bearings though, I pulled the oil pan a couple weeks ago and confirmed it. The number 1 bearing was almost completely gone. I'm hoping once I get the engine out that it can be repaired simply by polishing.
That's awesome man! Good eye :). Unfortunately my d is parked again, the knocking returned, and we're pretty sure it's the main bearings now. Guess I'll be building the block and doing turbo upgrades next :D
Ya I did the valve cover gasket last weekend and unfortunately starting it for the first time there is a knock somehow. So I was trying to listen to other knock to see if I could diagnose. It sounds very much on the top of the motor. Are you apart of the Facebook group “ North American BMW diesel owners”?
Have Same Sound, changed all Rod bearing and Checkt only one crank bearing,.Was that a mistake? Please let me know if only one crank bearing cause the knocking? ! Regards from germany!
DId you use an FAI dampener? I think mine is starting to knock again, I looked under the hood and it's wavering in and out. I'm wondering the same thing as you, was it defective, or did I not torque it down correctly. It certainly shouldn't look like it looks I think.
@@aqifrajaa1363 I'm nearly certain mine is the crankshaft, but I need to pull the oil pan off to confirm. It looks like the main bearings are worn out. I haven't had time to check it yet though.
Are you saying cost to rebuild? I have about $500 usd in gaskets and bolts, and another $400 for a used block and head. Getting the bearings were the hardest part. The ones I used were actually for a different application but the right dimensions, I just had to modify them slightly.
So what was the exact problem and how did you fix it? Was it the harmonic balancer or the main bearing?
It was 100% the main bearings. Bearing 1&2 were completely wiped out, 3 was pretty much toast, and the rest all had extreme wear. My guess is the car was ran low on oil before I owned it. The failed 1&2 bearings also allowed the balancer to wobble around as well, leading me to believe it was that. But pulling the oil pan (which only takes about 30 min) revealed the truth.
To fix, I pulled the engine and rebuilt everything. Being in the US it was very hard to find some of the internal components, but the machine shop I use helped me track down some of the harder to find pieces. The bearings I used were for other applications but the dimensions were the same as the M57 ones, same with the rings, seems to be holding up great. I also did a bunch of upgrades while it was apart, like studs, cams, springs, fuel system stuff, etc.
Car is running fantastic now, using a custom tune I made, I just changed out the break-in oil and no signs of abnormal wear. My next project is trying to adapt an aftermarket LP turbo and try to get a little more airflow through this thing 😁.
What was the cost of the rebuild? We're any of the auxiliaries damaged? Turbos etc...
@wnw000 how much did it cost for the rebuild?
@@spiv5ter874 I had to find a new block and crank. The old one could've been saved with a bunch of expensive machine work but a friend of mine had a good core that I bought instead. If you only count the gaskets, rings, bearings, etc, it was probably around $1000 for the spare motor and parts. I did all the work myself aside from having my local machine shop clean the block and hone the cylinders. I also added studs, stage 2 cams, valve springs, R90, and a big FMIC during the rebuild. I made up custom charge pipes with v-band connections, replaced motor mounts, and probably other things I'm forgetting, but I also knew I would be pushing this thing down the road.
@wnw000 - I got rid of my 640d had enough of the issues that kept coming with it. Had a number of M cars too. Decided to buy something totally different this time around! Going to stay away from BMWs for a few years.
Hi fella, would it be possible to ask u a couple of questions if that’s ok!
Sure, what you want to know?
Vacuum line taken off the vacuum pump will make that noise. As seen in the video.
I had hoped it would be anything but the bottom end. Interestingly enough, in the time since I filmed this I've personally seen this happen to two other M57s locally. They both were higher mileage though, and leaked a lot of oil. I think people just get lazy and let their 250k mile engines with tunes maxing the stock injectors out run low on oil.
I have the same exact noise but strangely enough only when the car is hot. No noise at all when it’s cold. You go for a drive, park it and the noise is there. Let it sit for an hour, start it up again and no noise. Thoughts?
If it's internal like my engine was, my guess would be something is just starting to fail, and when the internals are cold the clearances + thicker cold oil is enough to hide the noise. Once warm, the metals expand and the oil thins enough to make the sound more pronounced. If that's the case I'd try to find time to drop the front subframe and oil pan ASAP. You can do it in just an hour or two, and you might be able to get away with just replacing some bearings if the crank/rods/block aren't damaged yet.
@@wnw000 Makes sense. I appreciate the response, thank you
is there a way I can open up a direct line of communication with you?? I would like to run a couple things by you and get your thoughts since you are very familiar with the m57 platform. Im having a similar slight wobble in my new FAI damper and was just looking to get a second opinion
Sure! I added my email to this youtube profile, you should be able to contact me through that. I apologize for not just putting it here in the comments, I'm hoping less spammers will scrape it this way.
Nick W: hi there, problem ended up being the front main bearing was wiped out.
May GOD guide you all 🤗.
what was the reaon for the knoking?
Harmonic balancer. I removed the belts and the noise largely went away. Ordered a new FAI dampener from Whitbread performance and problem solved!
@@wnw000 Thanks a lot nick.Greetings from Berlin
@@wnw000why did you afterwards say it was 100% the bearings?
@@aqib2000 Back when I posted this video I had replaced the balancer, which was both visibly failing and the knocking got much quieter, so I assumed that was the issue. A couple weeks after that I noticed I could still here a faint but distinct knock sound that was still there and getting worse. I thought maybe I had gotten a bad dampener, but after more diagnosing I pulled the oil pan off and discovered the 1-3 main bearings were toast.
Just bought a 335d drove it 300 miles and it had a rod knock wity metal in the oil filter.
Did you need to replace turbos or any other auxiliaries?
Cheers
When I fixed mine I replaced all the gaskets, rings, and bearings. I did not replace turbos or the oil pump/pickup as they were still in good condition, but I did disassemble them and clean everything thoroughly. The block was cleaned and honed at a machine shop. I also chose to replace the water pump, thermostat, timing chains and guides, and the valve springs. That stuff wouldn't necessarily have to be replaced but it wasn't a lot of extra cost in the grand scheme of things and a lot easier to do when it's all apart.
I'm actually in process of rebuilding a 3rd M57 now. Not for this car, I've just really gotten in to the BMW diesels. If you're in the US it can be hard and expensive to get the correct bearings. I used rod bearings for another application that were the exact same dimensions, they just needed the tangs modified slightly. Similar story with the main bearings. Let me know if you want more information and I can look for the part numbers or maybe just post up another video on all the little tricks I've found for these. Good luck, reach out if you need anything and I'll do my best to respond.
Buddy, just try to replace your oil cap, looks it is broken.
I replaced the cap. Issue ended up being main bearings. I've since rebuilt the engine and on the tale end of getting the car back together.
Sir how many miles have you driven ? Can you also share what all parts you've changed on the engine side so far
My car has 210,000 miles on it. When I replaced the balancer I also tuned and deleted it, replaced glow plugs, did a bunch of other maintenance. It's definitely the crank bearings though, I pulled the oil pan a couple weeks ago and confirmed it. The number 1 bearing was almost completely gone. I'm hoping once I get the engine out that it can be repaired simply by polishing.
@@wnw000 did u find any metal parts in oil filter?
I have a 335d and a typhoon too!
That's awesome man! Good eye :). Unfortunately my d is parked again, the knocking returned, and we're pretty sure it's the main bearings now. Guess I'll be building the block and doing turbo upgrades next :D
Ya I did the valve cover gasket last weekend and unfortunately starting it for the first time there is a knock somehow. So I was trying to listen to other knock to see if I could diagnose. It sounds very much on the top of the motor. Are you apart of the Facebook group “ North American BMW diesel owners”?
@@rosseinsteder4454 I am now! Thanks
@@rosseinsteder4454 Sir how many miles have you driven ? Can you also share what all parts you've changed on the engine side so far
sounds like harmonic balancer
This isn't an M57, it's an N57
2011 US market 335d. It's an M57, I promise.
I have that, 2 x5d's, and 3 complete engines in my shop right now, I'm familiar with the platform.
@@wnw000 Oh ok, in the European market a 2011 would have an N57, by bad.
@@MackanCoolify All good, I wish we had access to the better selection of diesel sedans you guys get too.
Timing chain was changed?
Hi there, problem ended up being the front main bearing was wiped out.
Only one crank bearing cause the knocking sound??
Was the crankshaft demaged?
Tanks alot
Have Same Sound, changed all Rod bearing and Checkt only one crank bearing,.Was that a mistake?
Please let me know if only one crank bearing cause the knocking? !
Regards from germany!
I have this exact noise and I replaced my harmonic balancer a few days ago. Maybe defective or I didn't torque it down good enough
DId you use an FAI dampener? I think mine is starting to knock again, I looked under the hood and it's wavering in and out. I'm wondering the same thing as you, was it defective, or did I not torque it down correctly. It certainly shouldn't look like it looks I think.
@@wnw000 I used oem. Keep me updated I will try hunting down the sound tomorrow
@@wnw000
Mines is making the same sound.but it only dose it from time to time ? Was yours a bad timing chain ?
@@aqifrajaa1363 I'm nearly certain mine is the crankshaft, but I need to pull the oil pan off to confirm. It looks like the main bearings are worn out. I haven't had time to check it yet though.
man your tractor sounds broken
minimum 2500E
Are you saying cost to rebuild? I have about $500 usd in gaskets and bolts, and another $400 for a used block and head. Getting the bearings were the hardest part. The ones I used were actually for a different application but the right dimensions, I just had to modify them slightly.