Just received word from a shop that they will do this for about $2,000. I'm no stranger to vehicle repair, so I immediately started hunting for "how-to" videos. Yours is the most detailed and easy to follow one I've found! Thanks for posting this - looks like I've got another project on my hands!
@@CutieSusie7777 that's a great price! The part itself cost me $89. I followed this video and completed it. I also have a Dodge Avenger with the same engine - replaced that one as well. As far as garages go, the shop I dealt with said that the labor was the bulk of the cost.
As a fleet mechanic, I've done a countless number of these on the fleet of promasters at work. One of two things. You can leave the injectors in the lower intake by just disconnecting the fuel supply line from the fuel rail and unplugging the coil packs from the electrical harness. Also if you put a thin coat of lithium grease on that cooler O-ring it'll slide on in. If you use the rubber mallet to drive it in you take a chance on rolling or pinching that O-ring out of the groove. Very informative video💯
This is a very good video showing how to replace the oil filter housing. I did this job a little while back and instead of removing the injectors I disconnected the fuel feed from the tank and lifted the entire assembly to the left side of the car. It also helps if you put dielectric grease on the o-ring on the housing and filter cap. Mine slid in very easy.
Thanks you so much! I'm a small business owner with 20 Chrysler pacificas and I've been slowly mastering these vehicles in the past few months. Your videos are part of the only reason I've been able to do that.
Thanks to your video here I saved over $2k! Changed out the Oil Cooler Housing (For a Dorman), (6) spark plugs, (3) coil packs of cylinders 2,4, and 6. Got it all back together and it’s purring like a kitten! Appreciate you documenting this for a DIY Mechanic like myself. Cheers!
Thanks so much for posting this video. It genuinely saved me about $700. And I decided to replace the spark plugs while I was at it since this job gave me access to the front bank. Got all the parts from AutoZone for under $500 (filter housing, injector seals, motor oil, coolant, spark plugs). It definitely takes some time. Like yours, mine had no visible sign of cracking, but the telltale signs were there on top of the engine block. My 2017 Pacifica has 90K miles and I feel like I could easily push another 90K now. Thanks again.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! My husband and I just saved over $6k from multiple of your videos. We are so grateful for you taking the time to make these. Bless you!
I just want to say I appreciate you so much for doing this video. I'm no stranger to working on an engine but being able to see someone else do it so I know what to expect ahead of time is a major help. After watching you I realize this job is easy as hell lol which obviously is a good thing. I was honestly worried this was going to be a little bit more complicated.
You’re welcome, I’m glad you found some value in this video. Thanks for taking a the time to leave a nice comment. Good luck on your cooler replacement.
@@TheLawnEngineer I'm coming up to 100,000 miles on my 2018 so I'm going to do the cooler I'm going to do the coolant and the transmission fluid and the spark plugs all in one go. After that the next thing I need to focus on is the valve clearance on my Aprilia Tuareg 660 but that's going to be way more involved lol
I own a 2017 Pacifica Touring L - which presently has 97,000 miles on it. I've greatly enjoyed watching your videos on this vehicle, and found them to be very informative and helpful...and EXCEPTIONALLY well done. I normally keep my vehicles about 20 years (I'm 72 years old and do all my own maintenance) - this Pacifica was my first Chrysler product. I also own a 2005 Ford Freestar minivan (which my wife drives) - it currently has a hair under 200,000 miles, and it has given me zero problems since I bought it new in 2005 (other than routine items such as oil, filters, brakes, tires, and battery). I bought the Pacifica because Ford quit making minivans. I'd sell my soul to be able to buy another new Ford Freestar or Windstar - they last forever. Thus far, I have enjoyed driving the Pacifica - I use it to "commute" between my home in Ohio and my home in Michigan (I joke that I actually "live" on I-75 and the Ohio Turnpike). Still, i must admit that as much as I have enjoyed the Pacifica - this newest problem that you've experienced - has seriously shaken my faith in the Pacifica...and in Chrysler's design & engineering. I "was" planning to buy another Pacifica when my wife's Freestar eventually required replacement. But, after watching your video - I probably wouldn't buy another one. Thanks for another great video!
Very sad this is the last video we'll see from you on these, they have been extremely helpful to me learning how to work on my 2018 Pacifica. I'll be doing this exact change soon with an aluminum replacement part.
I've been watching (religiously) for the last few weeks - picked up the 2017 and it's a mess~! Needs a water pump, now~! Dealer wants $2600, and repair shops @ $1800+~! This "marathon" is going to get done and the videos you've shared have been a great help!! BTW, I also have a 2023 Model Y that I'm trying to use less on my longer trips. The storage space in the Pacifica is what I need to have for my equipment, my pup and Mum (when she decides to travel with me. Thanks again - and if you know of any videos replacing the water pump, send them my way.
The Tesla does make all the maintenance that goes along with an ICE vehicle seems silly doesn’t it? But I agree, you can’t beat the space in a van. Those repair estimates seem bonkers for a water pump. I think there is just enough space to do it without lifting the engine. I wonder if they are putting time in there to remove the motor mounts to get more clearance in the water pump side.
I did my own water pump on my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. Two day job, passenger tire removed, and swapped it from the side... no engine removal. It was a lot of work, but got the manual, took my time and had it up and running. The two days were the hours after work in the evening. If someone telling you the engine needs removed or it is 1800 to change, that is not true and way too much. My local auto shop was at 700 with tax and the new pump.
I did this job today. I too found another oil leak, not just the housing. I will go back later and replace the plugs using his other video. Thanks lawn engineer 😃
The first major hurdle most home mechanics will encounter is removal of the upper manifold (aka plenum). On all applications, the upper manifold horizonal fasteners (studs and nuts) are "captured" by the support brackets. "Captured" means that even after you remove the nuts, if the brackets are not loosened, it is physically impossible to remove the upper manifold. Either the two brackets on the drivers (rwd) or front (fwd) side have to be loosened and moved away from the upper manifold to release the manifold, or the passenger (rwd) or right/rear (awd) bracket has to be loosened and moved away. If you do this job on the van, the front two upper plenum support brackets are relatively easy to access to loosen. On the 200, you can't access these so the only option is to remove the single stud/bolt that secures the bracket to the head. This stud/bolt combination is camouflaged by a plastic support that secures the really big wiring harness that runs front to rear alongside the drivers side of the two cyl heads. The harness is very snugly strung so it takes some force to pull the harness off of the stud/bolt so you can apply a 13mm wrench to the hex and remove it. Once the upper manifold is removed, IMO there is no need to remove the fuel rails or injectors--leave them right where they are and use the blue quick disconnect you can see at @1:02 to separate the fuel system attached to the lower manifold from the fuel line. A wise precaution for home mechanics: whenever ANY opening into the engine is uncovered, take steps to preclude any chance of anything falling in! Stuff paper towels or rags or use painters tape over intake ports, oil passages or coolant passages. Have lots of throttle body or carb cleaner, paper towels, and a couple of old tooth brushes handy. Of course you're going to need these cleaning supplies to sop up the oil pooled under the oil filter housing, but you'll also want to address the intake ports. Stuff smaller strips of paper towel in the intake ports to soak up carb cleaner, then use the carb cleaner and toothbrushes (NO WIRE BRUSHES!!!) to scrub the deposits off of the port walls. In these engines, sticky gooey port walls are typical. Your valve heads and stems should however not have deposits----if your valves have deposits on them, you'll want to look into having an intake system cleaning done at a shop. As far as parts go, I would use either the genuine Mopar replacement or the Dorman aluminum alternative---I would NOT use a knock off regardless of whether its plastic or aluminum. And DO NOT get your replacement intake gaskets/o-rings at the dealer, they are horrendously over priced. The Fel-Pro MS 97204 intake kit is just fine.
Thanks for checking in and adding some details. I agree, the brackets can be a large pain in the butt. Always good to get multiple perspectives and experiences.
Amazing! thank you for this excellent advice! I will be performing this exact job this weekend. Dealer just quoted us $1650. i figured it was the oil cooler housing but wanted confirmation before i started pulling things apart. The last motor work i did was probably my 88 Iroc engine swap, now im working on a minivan :(
@@PaulDo22 Whenever doing any significant work on your engine that requires disconnecting wiring harness connectors, it's always sound practice to disconnect the neg battery cable from the battery if for no other reason than as a precaution. I am not familiar enough with this fuel injection system to tell you that disconnecting the battery will allow residual fuel system pressure to bleed off. However, wrapping shop rags around a pressurized fuel system connection in preparation for disconnecting it is again another one of those sound practices. The rags will catch much of the fuel and will of course help keep the fuel from spraying.
Question, I bought the Felpro o-rings from AutoZone. They are all black. And I may be wrong, but the original orange and blue o-rings do appear to be different sizes. I guess it's possible they are just worn. Does anyone know if those o-rings are the same size?
Your video is the best when it comes on details the way you explain every steps. Will you please show us too how the proper way to add brake fluids on Pacifica. Again thank you so much for sharing your talent with us. God Bless.
I'm glad you liked the video, thanks for leaving a nice comment. Unfortunately, I no longer have this vehicle but adding brake fluid is the same as most other vehicles, remove the top of the reservoir and dump some in.
Wow congratulations on the challenge of this job you have more patience than I would and I don't have that gift of mechanical ability but I admire people like you that do mine has 111,000 miles and it is a 2017 I will probably get rid of it if I start having problems like that again another great video
I wish I would have had this video last year when I tackled this repair. At the time, the aluminum housing was not listed for the Pacifica and I couldn't get confirmation that it would fit. My guess is that it was because of the different pressure sending unit. Thanks for doing this. Also, you did give me EXTREME anxiety with you working over those open intake ports. I always stuff a shop rag down those ports before I work over them. (Please don't ask me why I do this NOW.)
You are probably correct about the sending unit and Amazon listings. They weren’t the clearest and took me a bit to get confident that the aluminum unit would fit. I’m super careful and would never drop anything down an intake 🙃. I’d better use some shop rags from now on…
Fellow engineer. Great video, description, and technical explanations as always and tips like the aftermarket cooler/oil filter housing out of metal - nice. As for your question when do you give up - that's a good one. I call it 'shooting the mule'. My new 04 Freestar van was a major headache ( everything failed but the driver seat) from day one to 180k miles then I had enough and traded it (with full disclosure) in a fit of despair for a Certified Pre Owned 2017 Pacifica. With the Pacifica I said I would never, ever coax a vehicle again as long as the Freestar if it misbehaved. I am about there at 95K. Pacifica has some really great advantages over Ford vans, they have been making minivans for decades so they must know something - I hoped. And Chrysler's 3.6L have a decent reputation, certainly have more power than I need and the FE is great. The sliding doors with power windows that seal great and no NVH are light years ahead of Ford and we constantly switch between passenger van and cargo van usage, all at 30-34 mpg. But the van's engine components, steering, and suspension also seems fragile. Also bought as CPO which means, as you noted, we will charge you a deductible to fix things which should not be failing anyway, which the sales team said would be covered without mentioning the cost part. In brief the following non standard maintenance things have been covered probably 50% by dealer ( warranty or CPO coverage) and 50% me. 4 transmission reprograms, rear trans mount replaced, hood repainted ( warranty paint issue), both sliding doors repainted (warranty paint issue), 4 sets of front struts, mounts, and sta bar links, and drum roll... new (rebuild) electric steering rack and reprogramming when inner tie rod ends fall apart ( non serviceable part like the outer tie rod end). Other dumb things like the rear cargo chime stopped working due to spider webs/bugs? ( $6 part) and A/C was very weak this year so I did the home $125 A/C Pro can ( despite those warning the world ends by DIY A/C cans) after getting 2 quotes of $500 to vac and fill the r1234yf. A/C places said they are just seeing vehicles need recharged now with the new mandated expensive refrigerant and the 'economies of scale' have not kicked in yet so it is very expensive per pound. I have not had the oil filter housing issue as I have had the Dealer change all the oil and I remind them if they break the housing they bought it. In short my Pacifica is near death row, and I may have to shoot the mule. I have 18 months left of payments and if it goes that long with no issues I will reassess at probably 6 month intervals. The mechanicals don't live up to the good looks of the van, and unless it really goes the next 25k flawlessly it is dead van walking.
Thank you for doing this video. After ten million of these engines being built you would think that Chrysler would have gotten away from that Goddamn plastic part but they still have it made with small changes in design by their supplier. The Dorman OE solutions part I feel is the best replacement. I will be doing this to my Pentastar engine in my ‘12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible which is a car I like and will keep long term. When you think about how many of these engines have been worked on by stealerships and DIYers it makes a person wish that these vehicles would’ve been made better to last but of course the car makers aren’t concerned about that.
I completely agree, and overall great engine ruined by a plastic part. I'm not sure why the OEMs are so stubborn, they clearly know what the problem is and how to prevent it.
I would attempt this but I have extended Mopar MAXcare warranty, I just may have them check it and have them do it if they feel it needs it. I'll probably have to pay for new coolant though. Also my thermostat is opening too fast, the engine is taking too long to heat up, as a result the engine light came on. I noticed you didn't put any rags in the intake ports... that is rather risky.. Thanks for the video.
Great video, this Pacifica series is really helpful. My wife's 2020 Pacifica had this problem last week (wish I had this video then haha). One morning it just cranked but did not start, I checked the fluid levels and the oil was really low (I'm guessing the engine has a failsafe to prevent running with low oil). I did some research that pointed to this oil filter housing. When I looked with a flashlight I saw oil pooling down there on the top of the block. In hindsight I had to top off the coolant a couple times in the last year as well. I swapped mine out with the SKP sk926959 which I DON'T recommend since it came with the wrong size oil pressure sensor connector so I had to reuse the old one, additionally it came with an oil temp sensor that does not seem to be used for this year model of the Pacifica (not sure where the actual oil temp sensor is on this engine yet). There wasn't a blank plug either in case I wanted to remove that sensor so I had to just tape off the unused connector. A tip that might help others, when I did mine I just unplugged the fuel rail from the fuel line and left the injectors in place, might save some time that way. And make sure to drain your oil and coolant BEFORE you start to remove the filter housing otherwise you will make a mess like I did 😅. I also noticed when replacing my spark plugs that the back side variable valve lift solenoid has oil leaking around it as well so I am going to replace that too for good measure. Can't believe that Chrysler is still making the oil filter housing out of plastic since this has been a known issue since the Town & Country. Otherwise this has been a great vehicle for us. Glad they worked out the transmission problems after the 2017 model year.
I personally thing you've done a Great job of keeping up with and maintaining your van. I believe that it is good for another 90,000 miles-Just saying. Good Luck.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes! Those German vehicles are something special 🙃. I had a BMW X5 that created quite a few opportunities to work on it.
2017 Pacifica 146K miles. Not the original owner. P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. Replaced all plugs and coils. No smoke out the tail pipe but a very slow coolant leak. I get a rough start up for a few minutes then every things runs fine. No over heating issues. I pulled out the PCV valve and there is sludge so I can tell antifreeze has gotten into the crankcase. I figure Ill replace the Plastic oil housing filter with this because its torn down so why not. Dealer kept asking for more approval time to diagnose the issue. If I would have agreed I would be out about $500-$600 just for them to try and find the problem. Did a coolant vapor test and no contaminants are detected in my cooling system. Waiting for my head gasket to come in.
Great work in a tough situation. I’m assuming you don’t know if the plugs and wires resolved the misfire because you have to put everything back together to test. I don’t see any reason why that wouldn’t resolve the issue but it’s always nice to know. Anyway, good luck on the coolant related work. Please stop back and let us know how it goes.
@@TheLawnEngineer there's a long back story but I feel like the dealer is just throwing parts and ideas at it. I can tell they didn't do typical inspections. Like when I was told the PCV valve was fine vs. when I pulled. Def not fine. Great videos.
Thanks for a great and informative video. I just found out that I have the same problem ( leaking oil cooler housing). Can you please tell me how much time does this replacement takes? Do I have to replace engine oil also? I just did my oil change, so it would be a waste 😀 Thank you, and happy holidays 🌲 Tony
You’re welcome, thanks for the comment. I would plan on 8 hours to complete the job. You do not need to change the oil with the replacement. Best of luck with the replacement 👍
It’s tough but I was just able to get my right hand in the valley and use my thumb to press in the catch…then gently wiggle it out. If you get the catch depressed with your thumb it will come out rather easily.
First 3.6 I’ve worked on. Easy job but to much little things to unplug and hard bolts to get to. Taking off and putting on the belly pan is crazy just so the coolant hose can be removed for draining
Great video. The link to the aluminum housing states for a 2016 year model, the link for the plastic is for 2017 and up. I have a 2017 Pacifica. Will the aluminum fit? Im changing out plugs and coils. Should i continue tear down and replace oil cooler housing? 98K on veh now. THANKS
Yes the aluminum will fit but you won’t use one sensor and you’ll have to swap one from your existing cooler. I’m not sure why the aluminum isn’t available with the 2017+ sensors but I couldn’t find one.
Great videos. Thanks so much for posting I am doing this on a 72,000 mile 2021 Pacifica and I cannot figure out how the strange looking electrical connector on the lower intake separates. (afraid I will break it!) It shows plainly at 5:10 in your excellent video but I cannot figure out how it comes apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the quick reply I am working on a 2021 but it looks almost exactly the same. The connector that I was concerned with actually goes underneath the lower intake. It just has a attachment hanger tab that attach's to the end of the intake. All makes sense now. Looking for that pesky drain petcock for the radiator and I think I found it on the drivers side on the bottom of the radiator. Looks like it is a weird little end cap that a 3/8" extension end fits right into but have not tried it yet. I am done for the night LOL. I had to remove the front plastic fascia but was able to leave the large underbody cover in place and I still have the little access door on mine so that is good.
Pretty good but you don't need to remove the fuel rails or the fuel line, the lower intake + injectors + rails will come out as an assembly and rotate out of the way. If you do remove the rails, you're supposed to install the injects into the rails and then install the injectors+rail assembly into the manifold. Do not install the injectors into the manifold and then put the rails over them.
Great video! looks like my 2017 Pacifica has a blown head gasket and it's out of warranty at 70k miles. I do all my own repairs also, but this looks like a tough one.
Same here, blown head gasket at #5 cylinder. How did they diagnose blown head gasket? Just curious to make sure I'm not getting snowed. Recommended total engine replacement...
Love the video, it's very helpful. Unfortunately I have had to take things apart multiple times. For some reason, I am smelling gas after all is back together and running. It runs fine, no issues, but I smell gas. When I initially did it, as I pressed the fuel rail back on, it tore one of the blue o-rings. I replaced the rings and it still smells like gas. When I took it apart, the fule rail dumped gas, and I'm not sure if the gas is just burning off, or if I still have a leak. I don't see anything. But I smell it. Any thoughts?
I would give it a bit since you know you spilled gas. I would think the o-ring replacement should have fixed your problem. That said, gas does evaporate pretty fast so you shouldn’t have a gas smell for long if the leak is stopped.
@@TheLawnEngineer thanks for the reply. I'm thinking either I'm still leaking somewhere, or Evap system bad connection somewhere from moving the hoses and things around.
@seatime674 I guess the gas that leaked out when I pulled the fuel rails had to burn off. After driving for a few days, the gas smell went away. Again, initially, I had one bad oring on the top of one of the fuel injectors. All is running well. Thanks for the follow up.
@@johnbarton1933 Good to know. I'll probably be doing this to my '18 Pacifica this summer. Been doing research I guess you don't have to pop out the fuel injectors just disconnect the fuel rail.. Did you get the Doorman with the cooler or just the holder.. I'm a little leery of these aftermarket jobs like the ones on Amazon or Ebay I may go with OEM I don't know
Is this the only way there would be oil in the valley? I have a 2018 Pacifica and have replaced the oil cooler. I cleaned out the valley and once the new part was on I drove it and the oil showed back up
It could be a couple of different things. The PCV valve could have failed and oil is being sucked into the intake with some making its way to the valley. The other possibility is a blown head gasket.
I just bought a 2017 Pacifica from a local dealer and smelled the burning oil/coolant on day 3 of ownership and popped the hood and saw the oil pool below the filter. I was hoping someone was just lazy with previous oil changes but it’s quite a bit of oil so most likely I have the same issue. I guess luckily I purchased a b2b warranty for 7 years/100k miles so I’ll take it in and have them fix it before it gets worse. Really hoping I didn’t just buy a car that’s constantly going to be in the shop though..
Great Vlog...So I am in a tough stop. And I suspect Mopar knows very well they have faulty parts, esp. the Oil Cooler. I pulled a code...p0305, had the initial thought and set up appointment to resolve what wa thought to replace coils and plugs. With in a week the engine idled rough and experienced a brief over heat. I immediately pulled over and had it towed to a local shop. They are saying I need an entire new engine. 14k ....but I don’t think they are capable or took the time to research even though I spoke 0f a common issue relating to the cooling system. I can’t believe the engine is shot, maybe you can speak on it. I am thinking of bringing it home to do s you did, and the a look at the heads...
That is a tough spot. I like your idea of bringing it home or to another mechanic for a second opinion. I would do some basic health checks…compression testing on each cylinder, inspection coolant/oil for signs of cross contamination Good luck, major engine and transmission problems are the worst.
Thank you. Sorry to bug again. But what is the red flag/s... that for sure indicate the engine is toast. This seems muddy, and shops are quickly just determining this to generate high dollar/revenue and less tedious and risky repair. It reminds me of the Health Sustem, always opting for surgery when a simple diet change is the fix.
Happy New Year Mr. Lawn Engineer, hope this comments find you. I have a 2018 Pacifica, made with 17 models base. My active grille shutter went bad and triggered CEL. Have you ever encounter that issue with your ownership of Pacifica tyvm.
Happy New Year to you as well. I did not run into any active shutter problems. I did some quick searching and it looks like the easiest solution is to replace the entire shutter assembly, available on Amazon starting at around $200.
I@@TheLawnEngineer I brought the pigtail connector and thinking should I just replace the connector first, because from my research a lot of people say they found corrosion on the connector. wdyt
Thank you for your two videos about smelling coolant and replacing the oil cooler assembly. Some of the comments herein speak of blown head gaskets. Is it possible that enough coolant could be lost from the oil cooler with the result being a blown head gasket?
Great video. What are the other issues ? I'm considering the Pacifica as my next car. Coming from BMW, cooling and few other things do not concern me as it is the part of ownership.
The transmission tuning/computer is the vehicle’s primary weakness. Chrysler Pacifica-Jeep Cherokee 948TE ZF 9 speed Transmission Reset: Fix those harsh shifts ruclips.net/video/REgRcfIc6Z0/видео.html
So I am also seeing the puddled up oil and am losing just a tiny bit of coolant. I did see an about a quarter size drop of coolant on the garage floor the other day. Do you think this could be a different issue? Thank you for your videos.
Hello! Thank you for this clip. I realized I have the same problem. I have a question about this. Does the replacement part still work well? I've heard of cases where non-genuine parts break down after a few thousand kilometers. Please help master!
Can you confirm the part in the link is correct? They are showing it's only compatible up to 2016 model year Chryslers. I have a 2018 Pacifica and the AC just failed at 66k miles. They noticed a small oil leak from that housing and I saw on the forums that the compressor and oil filter housing were the two parts most likely to repeatedly fail. I'm going to be stuck with another POS Chrysler AC Compressor that will likely go out in a few years, but if I can get a better oil filter housing I'm going to do it.
Yes, the part years are confusing because Chrysler changed the sensors but the dimension of the units are the same. I used this part but had to switch out one of the sensors as I showed in the video.
You’re welcome. You can pull the intake with the fuel rails connected if you disconnect the fuel line and the wires to each injector. If you do what I did, I would recommend new injector o-rings.
let's see what we did today 1. The replacement of the oil filter/cooler housing was not successful, because most of the connection interfaces could not be separated, and some of them were disabled by me. Maybe special tools are needed? 2. Thankfully, all the spark plugs were replaced successfully. 3. Cleaned the Valve-PCV by the way, although it was difficult to remove. I hope you can give some suggestions, thank you!
@@chengtang4878 you do need a fair amount of pressure to get the fuel rails seated down on the injectors. It’s the easiest to put the o-rings on the injectors and then get the fuel rail down.
@TheLawnEngineer how reliable is the oil cooler from gstp auto parts? I have a jeep wrangler with the same problem and I’m debating on buying from them or Dorman. Have you had anything leaks months after installing? Thanks in advance
I did not have any issues. I don’t have the vehicle anymore so I can’t give a long term update. I will say that the casting was of good quality and the sealing surface was machined flat. It is a big upgrade over the original plastic part. The Dorman may be even better but without data on failure rates between the two its impossible for me to factually say which is better.
my dealer changed 4 rocker arms and it still ticks. I looked at the valve covers and said how did you do that because they were never removed. They lied and I left it there and told them to fix it right. All this under warranty. They didn't think I would check like most people don't and live with the tick. The original RTV sealant was still there never touched and sand and dirt around covers
The oil filter housings are the same on all 2014+ 3.2L/3.6L engines, but the sensors vary by application. You didn't mention it, but the oil temp sensor isn't located in the oil filter housing on the 3rd gen/PUG engines like the Pacifica has. I'm guessing you just left it in there to plug the hole. I knew you'd need to swap the oil pressure sensor before you mentioned it. It's not a bad idea to just replace it because they do sometimes go bad. I'm a bit surprised you're thinking about getting rid of the Pacifica. You really haven't done much actual work to it that I'm aware of. After you replace the PCV valve you shouldn't need to worry about anything major for a very long time. We keep our vehicles until they're wore out. We'll be replacing one soon that we've driven for almost 15 years.
Great summary, thanks for sharing. I agree about the van, it was pretty reliable and will keep going for many more miles but we decided to take advantage of the high used car prices and let it work for someone else.
There isn’t one. The electric assist is part of the steering rack assembly. It’s a simplified system with high pressure lines to leak. The downside is, when it goes out, you have to replace the entire unit.
It seems like it’s a wide range, probably depends on heat cycles( warm up - cool downs) and not actual miles. I’ve heard 30k - to never but around 60k I would really start paying attention to it.
It did fix the coolant leak. I traded the vehicle in after a few thousand miles of this fix. There wasn’t a puddle of oil at that time but I agree, the oil in the intake didn’t look great.
I didn’t have any check engine lights with the Pacifica. On other vehicles I have used a Bluetooth OBDII adapter to an android device with the torque pro application.
There's no need to remove the fuel line, one thing you can do to make your life easier is to completey remove the wire harness for the injectors and the coil packs, this makes it easy to replace the lower manifold.
Yes I did. It's the reason I had to change the temperature sensor, but the overall body fits perfectly. The aluminum body for 2017+ doesn't seem to be available which I wanted, so I just swapped the sensors.
I’m in the process of doing this and I notice the is an extra sensor on the new oil filter housing. Just curious if your part had that and what you did with it?
i am about to accomplish this procedure on my 2019 Pacifica . the oil filter housing I ordered did not come with any instructions. I was wondering if you might be able to provide a copy of the instructions you got with yours? Or at least provide the Torq specifications and tightening sequence? BTW Thanks for the videos.
@@TheLawnEngineer Thanks. I ordered the Dorman replacement earlier from Amazon $190 plus tax. I have a 17 Grand Caravan GT with 118k miles. This 3.6 is turning me into a part time mechanic but I guess these repairs are straight forward for the most part. I've changed the plugs, thermostat, radiator-hoses, and a few roller rockers and lifters on The firewall side which was by far the most stressful but again relatively straight forward. I wouldn't trust the dealer either.
Do you still own this vehicle? I think my upper radiator hose is leaking where it connects to the radiator. Will I have to take the entire fan out to access the hose?
I see I'm not the only one who had their dealer lose the oil pan drain bolt cover. I kept hearing a whistling sound as I drove my van after an oil change at the dealer, and the cover was gone. Ended up having to purchase a new one, and will just do oil changes myself. Dealer said it was not on them, but I find it funny that the 1 time I let them do the oil change, the cover goes missing.
Mine wouldn't stay closed. At around 10k miles, it fell down and was scraping the ground. I took it off and never put it back. I'm off now to see if someone made a better latch design 😂
I agree with you about laziness when it comes to the fastening of panels where the customer can’t see. I have a 2019 MX-5 which has a metal stiffener panel under the engine with eight bolts. The panel is meant to give structural stiffness because the car is a convertible. Anyways I took my car to a quick change oil place once. The very next oil change I did myself. And I discovered when they reinstalled the panel they only put four bolts, one at each corner. I drove up there that day and had a talk with the manager. We talked about the shabby work and the theft of my hardware. I literally told him you stole parts from my vehicle. They offered to make it right and gave me a free oil change and replaced the hardware and guess what happened? They reinstalled the panel and I can hear them using an air ratchet. I had to yell at them to stop. I’m like, what are you doing? You going to pay to put helicoils in those bolt holes when you strip them out🙄. Needless to say I avoid mechanic shops if I can help it. The quality is not there. Back to that Pacifica oil filter housing, you can literally change that out, fuel injectors, coil packs, PCV for $300. Pacifica yes is probably a maintenance pig but it’s pretty cheap to repair if you can do the work yourself.
How has the knock off replacement assembly held up so far? I need to replace mine for my cherokee and im looking at $300. Your link is less than $100. Is 8t working?
It worked out well for me but I sold the Pacifica a few months after installing. It seemed like an improvement over the plastic one, but I just got tired of working on the van.
Great question. I guaranteed that an engineer didn’t say: let’s make this critical component that sits in the engine valley out of plastic. It sounds like a classic case of management and marketing pushing for cost reduction and higher margins.
Sorry to bug you but I need help with a question. I serviced my 2017 Pacifica just recently. I replaced the oil filter housing, spark plugs, PCV valve, and the radiator all at once. The car runs really smooth and no hiccups in disassembly and assembly. However the check engine light came on. I wonder if this happens after such service without cause for concern? Did that happen to you as well?
No, the light should not come on. It's likely a sensor connection. I would suggest getting the code read for free at a parts store and see what it says. It won't tell you exactly what the problem is, but will point you in the right direction. Let me know what the code is and I can try to help point you in the right direction.
@@TheLawnEngineer hi, thank you so much. You prompted me to run to Walmart and get an OBDII scanner real quick. I found code P1404 which is the EGR valve. Here's some context: When removing the upper intake manifold i noticed it being very difficult with that curved bracket, stud and EGR valve. I don't have good strength so I couldn't pull off the hose on the EGR valve. Hence I removed the 3 nuts that connect the valve to the manifold and pulled the entire valve unit off. I decided to clean the soot and carbon inside it after removal and it was the only thing I gave my dad to do. He didn't use any solvent just blue rags to clean. I did buy a new EGR valve gasket for reassembly onto the manifold. Maybe my dad inadvertently got some carbon in the wrong place of the valve? Not sure what solvent to use for cleaning it. Thanks for any help in advance!
@@TheLawnEngineer thank you. Yes I checked the electrical connector and they look to be ok. I'm wondering if there is a relearning procedure or something after cleaning the EGR valve. I did have to disconnect my battery terminals to get better access for the EGR valve installation after I cleaned it this morning but it may have been for 5 or so minutes, not sure if that's long enough to reset the ECU which could fix this?
@@TheLawnEngineer thanks! Wasn't sure if you did plugs and coil packs first or did, as I do, being a former gunsmith, and perform the cheapest remedies first and work to more expensive.
There is a small catch that you need to gently pry up. A small flat head screwdriver or a paint can opener. The difficult part is the catch is oriented down, that is why the paint can tool is helpful.
Decent video but a lot of opinions. Definitely could be better from a technical point. Also not super sure of the aluminum part. Overall this is not an easy job if you want it done right.
Blown head gasket for me. The amount of money I'm going to put into this, I'm ready to get rid of it but unfortunately for us we are not at a place to do that. Cheapest option is engine replacement , if you just fix the head gasket you run the risk of bearing failure down the road and more time and $$$.
How did you know it was a blown head gasket. I have this same leak and my mechanic replaced the oil cooler with the aluminum one and it’s still leaking. Could this be my issue?
Same issue with my 18 Pacifica, 83k mile and overheated, blown head gasket, and wraped block. Searching for a replacement motor now. If you smell coolant, definitely have the oil cooler inspected.
Just looking at this engine layout and design, it's a mess. Not something I look forward to dealing with long term. Van's been working for our use but we have very low miles on it.
I will never buy a dodge product again because of the pentastar 3.6 motor. I have 54K miles on mine and my Rockers are bad and trying to get them replaced under 5 year 60k. Mechanic are incompetent. 5 days in the shop and counting.
Yeah, I was going to add it in text to the video but I forgot the exact spec and I lost the piece of paper it was on. Instead of guessing at one, I left it out.
Just received word from a shop that they will do this for about $2,000. I'm no stranger to vehicle repair, so I immediately started hunting for "how-to" videos. Yours is the most detailed and easy to follow one I've found! Thanks for posting this - looks like I've got another project on my hands!
I'm glad you found my videos. Good luck on the repair...too bad you have a leaking oil cooler.
@@TheLawnEngineer I've heard from more than one mechanic that the original plastic unit is a poor design destined to fail.
Had a garage tell me $ 525
@@CutieSusie7777 that's a great price! The part itself cost me $89. I followed this video and completed it. I also have a Dodge Avenger with the same engine - replaced that one as well. As far as garages go, the shop I dealt with said that the labor was the bulk of the cost.
My shop charged me $700.
As a fleet mechanic, I've done a countless number of these on the fleet of promasters at work. One of two things. You can leave the injectors in the lower intake by just disconnecting the fuel supply line from the fuel rail and unplugging the coil packs from the electrical harness. Also if you put a thin coat of lithium grease on that cooler O-ring it'll slide on in. If you use the rubber mallet to drive it in you take a chance on rolling or pinching that O-ring out of the groove. Very informative video💯
This is a very good video showing how to replace the oil filter housing. I did this job a little while back and instead of removing the injectors I disconnected the fuel feed from the tank and lifted the entire assembly to the left side of the car. It also helps if you put dielectric grease on the o-ring on the housing and filter cap. Mine slid in very easy.
Thanks for checking in and sharing the tip for the fuel injectors.
How do you get that thing off? There's a blue clip that comes up, but that white one underneath is still holding it all on.
I wish I had read this a couple of hours ago, good tip!
Thanks you so much! I'm a small business owner with 20 Chrysler pacificas and I've been slowly mastering these vehicles in the past few months. Your videos are part of the only reason I've been able to do that.
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment 👍
20? Good lord.. How many leaky oil coolers and have you heard about the Head gasket issues?
@@seatime674I’ve had to swap about 5 of them at this point
Thanks to your video here I saved over $2k! Changed out the Oil Cooler Housing (For a Dorman), (6) spark plugs, (3) coil packs of cylinders 2,4, and 6. Got it all back together and it’s purring like a kitten! Appreciate you documenting this for a DIY Mechanic like myself. Cheers!
Nice work! I’m glad my video could help you out.
Thanks so much for posting this video. It genuinely saved me about $700. And I decided to replace the spark plugs while I was at it since this job gave me access to the front bank. Got all the parts from AutoZone for under $500 (filter housing, injector seals, motor oil, coolant, spark plugs). It definitely takes some time. Like yours, mine had no visible sign of cracking, but the telltale signs were there on top of the engine block. My 2017 Pacifica has 90K miles and I feel like I could easily push another 90K now. Thanks again.
Great job tackling this maintenance and saving money! I’m glad my videos helped you out. Thanks for leaving a comment.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! My husband and I just saved over $6k from multiple of your videos. We are so grateful for you taking the time to make these. Bless you!
Glad I could help! Vehicles can be a big financial burden especially when they have reliability issues. Thanks for the comment.
I just want to say I appreciate you so much for doing this video. I'm no stranger to working on an engine but being able to see someone else do it so I know what to expect ahead of time is a major help. After watching you I realize this job is easy as hell lol which obviously is a good thing. I was honestly worried this was going to be a little bit more complicated.
You’re welcome, I’m glad you found some value in this video. Thanks for taking a the time to leave a nice comment.
Good luck on your cooler replacement.
@@TheLawnEngineer I'm coming up to 100,000 miles on my 2018 so I'm going to do the cooler I'm going to do the coolant and the transmission fluid and the spark plugs all in one go. After that the next thing I need to focus on is the valve clearance on my Aprilia Tuareg 660 but that's going to be way more involved lol
@@turbolag5107 transmission fluid on your own? Pump it out?
I own a 2017 Pacifica Touring L - which presently has 97,000 miles on it. I've greatly enjoyed watching your videos on this vehicle, and found them to be very informative and helpful...and EXCEPTIONALLY well done. I normally keep my vehicles about 20 years (I'm 72 years old and do all my own maintenance) - this Pacifica was my first Chrysler product. I also own a 2005 Ford Freestar minivan (which my wife drives) - it currently has a hair under 200,000 miles, and it has given me zero problems since I bought it new in 2005 (other than routine items such as oil, filters, brakes, tires, and battery). I bought the Pacifica because Ford quit making minivans. I'd sell my soul to be able to buy another new Ford Freestar or Windstar - they last forever. Thus far, I have enjoyed driving the Pacifica - I use it to "commute" between my home in Ohio and my home in Michigan (I joke that I actually "live" on I-75 and the Ohio Turnpike). Still, i must admit that as much as I have enjoyed the Pacifica - this newest problem that you've experienced - has seriously shaken my faith in the Pacifica...and in Chrysler's design & engineering. I "was" planning to buy another Pacifica when my wife's Freestar eventually required replacement. But, after watching your video - I probably wouldn't buy another one. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for checking in and sharing your experiences 👍
Very sad this is the last video we'll see from you on these, they have been extremely helpful to me learning how to work on my 2018 Pacifica. I'll be doing this exact change soon with an aluminum replacement part.
I’m glad you are finding value in these videos! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Brother thank you for posting this. I’m almost positive that our 2017 is experiencing the same thing. Thanks again, God bless!
You’re welcome, hope this helps!
I've been watching (religiously) for the last few weeks - picked up the 2017 and it's a mess~! Needs a water pump, now~! Dealer wants $2600, and repair shops @ $1800+~! This "marathon" is going to get done and the videos you've shared have been a great help!! BTW, I also have a 2023 Model Y that I'm trying to use less on my longer trips. The storage space in the Pacifica is what I need to have for my equipment, my pup and Mum (when she decides to travel with me. Thanks again - and if you know of any videos replacing the water pump, send them my way.
The Tesla does make all the maintenance that goes along with an ICE vehicle seems silly doesn’t it? But I agree, you can’t beat the space in a van.
Those repair estimates seem bonkers for a water pump. I think there is just enough space to do it without lifting the engine. I wonder if they are putting time in there to remove the motor mounts to get more clearance in the water pump side.
I did my own water pump on my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. Two day job, passenger tire removed, and swapped it from the side... no engine removal. It was a lot of work, but got the manual, took my time and had it up and running. The two days were the hours after work in the evening. If someone telling you the engine needs removed or it is 1800 to change, that is not true and way too much. My local auto shop was at 700 with tax and the new pump.
I did this job today. I too found another oil leak, not just the housing. I will go back later and replace the plugs using his other video. Thanks lawn engineer 😃
The first major hurdle most home mechanics will encounter is removal of the upper manifold (aka plenum). On all applications, the upper manifold horizonal fasteners (studs and nuts) are "captured" by the support brackets. "Captured" means that even after you remove the nuts, if the brackets are not loosened, it is physically impossible to remove the upper manifold. Either the two brackets on the drivers (rwd) or front (fwd) side have to be loosened and moved away from the upper manifold to release the manifold, or the passenger (rwd) or right/rear (awd) bracket has to be loosened and moved away. If you do this job on the van, the front two upper plenum support brackets are relatively easy to access to loosen. On the 200, you can't access these so the only option is to remove the single stud/bolt that secures the bracket to the head. This stud/bolt combination is camouflaged by a plastic support that secures the really big wiring harness that runs front to rear alongside the drivers side of the two cyl heads. The harness is very snugly strung so it takes some force to pull the harness off of the stud/bolt so you can apply a 13mm wrench to the hex and remove it.
Once the upper manifold is removed, IMO there is no need to remove the fuel rails or injectors--leave them right where they are and use the blue quick disconnect you can see at @1:02 to separate the fuel system attached to the lower manifold from the fuel line.
A wise precaution for home mechanics: whenever ANY opening into the engine is uncovered, take steps to preclude any chance of anything falling in! Stuff paper towels or rags or use painters tape over intake ports, oil passages or coolant passages.
Have lots of throttle body or carb cleaner, paper towels, and a couple of old tooth brushes handy. Of course you're going to need these cleaning supplies to sop up the oil pooled under the oil filter housing, but you'll also want to address the intake ports. Stuff smaller strips of paper towel in the intake ports to soak up carb cleaner, then use the carb cleaner and toothbrushes (NO WIRE BRUSHES!!!) to scrub the deposits off of the port walls. In these engines, sticky gooey port walls are typical. Your valve heads and stems should however not have deposits----if your valves have deposits on them, you'll want to look into having an intake system cleaning done at a shop.
As far as parts go, I would use either the genuine Mopar replacement or the Dorman aluminum alternative---I would NOT use a knock off regardless of whether its plastic or aluminum. And DO NOT get your replacement intake gaskets/o-rings at the dealer, they are horrendously over priced. The Fel-Pro MS 97204 intake kit is just fine.
Thanks for checking in and adding some details. I agree, the brackets can be a large pain in the butt. Always good to get multiple perspectives and experiences.
Does this mean disconnecting the battery to remove pressure from the fuel line?
Amazing! thank you for this excellent advice! I will be performing this exact job this weekend. Dealer just quoted us $1650. i figured it was the oil cooler housing but wanted confirmation before i started pulling things apart. The last motor work i did was probably my 88 Iroc engine swap, now im working on a minivan :(
@@PaulDo22 Whenever doing any significant work on your engine that requires disconnecting wiring harness connectors, it's always sound practice to disconnect the neg battery cable from the battery if for no other reason than as a precaution. I am not familiar enough with this fuel injection system to tell you that disconnecting the battery will allow residual fuel system pressure to bleed off. However, wrapping shop rags around a pressurized fuel system connection in preparation for disconnecting it is again another one of those sound practices. The rags will catch much of the fuel and will of course help keep the fuel from spraying.
Question, I bought the Felpro o-rings from AutoZone. They are all black. And I may be wrong, but the original orange and blue o-rings do appear to be different sizes. I guess it's possible they are just worn. Does anyone know if those o-rings are the same size?
Your video is the best when it comes on details the way you explain every steps. Will you please show us too how the proper way to add brake fluids on Pacifica. Again thank you so much for sharing your talent with us. God Bless.
I'm glad you liked the video, thanks for leaving a nice comment. Unfortunately, I no longer have this vehicle but adding brake fluid is the same as most other vehicles, remove the top of the reservoir and dump some in.
Wow congratulations on the challenge of this job you have more patience than I would and I don't have that gift of mechanical ability but I admire people like you that do mine has 111,000 miles and it is a 2017 I will probably get rid of it if I start having problems like that again another great video
Thanks Steven. It was quite a job, definitely not for everyone.
I wish I would have had this video last year when I tackled this repair. At the time, the aluminum housing was not listed for the Pacifica and I couldn't get confirmation that it would fit. My guess is that it was because of the different pressure sending unit. Thanks for doing this. Also, you did give me EXTREME anxiety with you working over those open intake ports. I always stuff a shop rag down those ports before I work over them. (Please don't ask me why I do this NOW.)
You are probably correct about the sending unit and Amazon listings. They weren’t the clearest and took me a bit to get confident that the aluminum unit would fit.
I’m super careful and would never drop anything down an intake 🙃. I’d better use some shop rags from now on…
Fellow engineer. Great video, description, and technical explanations as always and tips like the aftermarket cooler/oil filter housing out of metal - nice. As for your question when do you give up - that's a good one. I call it 'shooting the mule'. My new 04 Freestar van was a major headache ( everything failed but the driver seat) from day one to 180k miles then I had enough and traded it (with full disclosure) in a fit of despair for a Certified Pre Owned 2017 Pacifica. With the Pacifica I said I would never, ever coax a vehicle again as long as the Freestar if it misbehaved. I am about there at 95K.
Pacifica has some really great advantages over Ford vans, they have been making minivans for decades so they must know something - I hoped. And Chrysler's 3.6L have a decent reputation, certainly have more power than I need and the FE is great. The sliding doors with power windows that seal great and no NVH are light years ahead of Ford and we constantly switch between passenger van and cargo van usage, all at 30-34 mpg. But the van's engine components, steering, and suspension also seems fragile. Also bought as CPO which means, as you noted, we will charge you a deductible to fix things which should not be failing anyway, which the sales team said would be covered without mentioning the cost part.
In brief the following non standard maintenance things have been covered probably 50% by dealer ( warranty or CPO coverage) and 50% me. 4 transmission reprograms, rear trans mount replaced, hood repainted ( warranty paint issue), both sliding doors repainted (warranty paint issue), 4 sets of front struts, mounts, and sta bar links, and drum roll... new (rebuild) electric steering rack and reprogramming when inner tie rod ends fall apart ( non serviceable part like the outer tie rod end). Other dumb things like the rear cargo chime stopped working due to spider webs/bugs? ( $6 part) and A/C was very weak this year so I did the home $125 A/C Pro can ( despite those warning the world ends by DIY A/C cans) after getting 2 quotes of $500 to vac and fill the r1234yf. A/C places said they are just seeing vehicles need recharged now with the new mandated expensive refrigerant and the 'economies of scale' have not kicked in yet so it is very expensive per pound. I have not had the oil filter housing issue as I have had the Dealer change all the oil and I remind them if they break the housing they bought it.
In short my Pacifica is near death row, and I may have to shoot the mule. I have 18 months left of payments and if it goes that long with no issues I will reassess at probably 6 month intervals. The mechanicals don't live up to the good looks of the van, and unless it really goes the next 25k flawlessly it is dead van walking.
Thanks for checking in and sharing your experience and thoughts.
Shooting the mule…I love it.
Water pump is not bad toswap out.
Thank you for doing this video. After ten million of these engines being built you would think that Chrysler would have gotten away from that Goddamn plastic part but they still have it made with small changes in design by their supplier. The Dorman OE solutions part I feel is the best replacement. I will be doing this to my Pentastar engine in my ‘12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible which is a car I like and will keep long term. When you think about how many of these engines have been worked on by stealerships and DIYers it makes a person wish that these vehicles would’ve been made better to last but of course the car makers aren’t concerned about that.
I completely agree, and overall great engine ruined by a plastic part. I'm not sure why the OEMs are so stubborn, they clearly know what the problem is and how to prevent it.
God had nothing to do with it no reason to damn him
I would attempt this but I have extended Mopar MAXcare warranty, I just may have them check it and have them do it if they feel it needs it. I'll probably have to pay for new coolant though. Also my thermostat is opening too fast, the engine is taking too long to heat up, as a result the engine light came on. I noticed you didn't put any rags in the intake ports... that is rather risky.. Thanks for the video.
Good luck on getting the warranty replacement. Let me know how it goes.
Great video, this Pacifica series is really helpful. My wife's 2020 Pacifica had this problem last week (wish I had this video then haha). One morning it just cranked but did not start, I checked the fluid levels and the oil was really low (I'm guessing the engine has a failsafe to prevent running with low oil). I did some research that pointed to this oil filter housing. When I looked with a flashlight I saw oil pooling down there on the top of the block. In hindsight I had to top off the coolant a couple times in the last year as well. I swapped mine out with the SKP sk926959 which I DON'T recommend since it came with the wrong size oil pressure sensor connector so I had to reuse the old one, additionally it came with an oil temp sensor that does not seem to be used for this year model of the Pacifica (not sure where the actual oil temp sensor is on this engine yet). There wasn't a blank plug either in case I wanted to remove that sensor so I had to just tape off the unused connector. A tip that might help others, when I did mine I just unplugged the fuel rail from the fuel line and left the injectors in place, might save some time that way. And make sure to drain your oil and coolant BEFORE you start to remove the filter housing otherwise you will make a mess like I did 😅.
I also noticed when replacing my spark plugs that the back side variable valve lift solenoid has oil leaking around it as well so I am going to replace that too for good measure.
Can't believe that Chrysler is still making the oil filter housing out of plastic since this has been a known issue since the Town & Country. Otherwise this has been a great vehicle for us. Glad they worked out the transmission problems after the 2017 model year.
Thanks for checking in, I’m glad i caught my earlier.
Good tip on the fuel rails, I didn’t think of that 🙃.
Im wondering why you have to drain the oil first, all the oil is down low in the drain pain not up top where the oil cooler is
I personally thing you've done a Great job of keeping up with and maintaining your van. I believe that it is good for another 90,000 miles-Just saying. Good Luck.
It likely would have been good for another 90k but we decided to move on.
Gonna be tackling this today, wish me luck! Recently did a crossover tube on a 3.2 Audi v6, so I’m anxious to see how this compares 😂
Good luck! Let me know how it goes!
Those German vehicles are something special 🙃. I had a BMW X5 that created quite a few opportunities to work on it.
2017 Pacifica 146K miles. Not the original owner. P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. Replaced all plugs and coils. No smoke out the tail pipe but a very slow coolant leak. I get a rough start up for a few minutes then every things runs fine. No over heating issues. I pulled out the PCV valve and there is sludge so I can tell antifreeze has gotten into the crankcase. I figure Ill replace the Plastic oil housing filter with this because its torn down so why not. Dealer kept asking for more approval time to diagnose the issue. If I would have agreed I would be out about $500-$600 just for them to try and find the problem. Did a coolant vapor test and no contaminants are detected in my cooling system. Waiting for my head gasket to come in.
Great work in a tough situation. I’m assuming you don’t know if the plugs and wires resolved the misfire because you have to put everything back together to test. I don’t see any reason why that wouldn’t resolve the issue but it’s always nice to know.
Anyway, good luck on the coolant related work. Please stop back and let us know how it goes.
@@TheLawnEngineer there's a long back story but I feel like the dealer is just throwing parts and ideas at it. I can tell they didn't do typical inspections. Like when I was told the PCV valve was fine vs. when I pulled. Def not fine. Great videos.
Thanks for a great and informative video. I just found out that I have the same problem ( leaking oil cooler housing). Can you please tell me how much time does this replacement takes? Do I have to replace engine oil also? I just did my oil change, so it would be a waste 😀 Thank you, and happy holidays 🌲 Tony
You’re welcome, thanks for the comment.
I would plan on 8 hours to complete the job. You do not need to change the oil with the replacement.
Best of luck with the replacement 👍
How did you get the wire connection to the manifold loose? Scared I may break it.
It’s tough but I was just able to get my right hand in the valley and use my thumb to press in the catch…then gently wiggle it out. If you get the catch depressed with your thumb it will come out rather easily.
First 3.6 I’ve worked on. Easy job but to much little things to unplug and hard bolts to get to. Taking off and putting on the belly pan is crazy just so the coolant hose can be removed for draining
Well said, thanks for the comment.
Great video. The link to the aluminum housing states for a 2016 year model, the link for the plastic is for 2017 and up. I have a 2017 Pacifica. Will the aluminum fit? Im changing out plugs and coils. Should i continue tear down and replace oil cooler housing? 98K on veh now. THANKS
Yes the aluminum will fit but you won’t use one sensor and you’ll have to swap one from your existing cooler. I’m not sure why the aluminum isn’t available with the 2017+ sensors but I couldn’t find one.
No rags in the intake to prevent accidental drops?
That is a good idea…I guess I like to live dangerously…and the curse profusely when I drop something.
Great videos. Thanks so much for posting I am doing this on a 72,000 mile 2021 Pacifica and I cannot figure out how the strange looking electrical connector on the lower intake separates. (afraid I will break it!) It shows plainly at 5:10 in your excellent video but I cannot figure out how it comes apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don’t recall exactly but I believe there is a catch that you need to press down with your thumb and it will wiggle free fairly easily.
Thanks for the quick reply I am working on a 2021 but it looks almost exactly the same. The connector that I was concerned with actually goes underneath the lower intake. It just has a attachment hanger tab that attach's to the end of the intake. All makes sense now. Looking for that pesky drain petcock for the radiator and I think I found it on the drivers side on the bottom of the radiator. Looks like it is a weird little end cap that a 3/8" extension end fits right into but have not tried it yet. I am done for the night LOL. I had to remove the front plastic fascia but was able to leave the large underbody cover in place and I still have the little access door on mine so that is good.
I would love to know more about your flashlight if you have a link. thanks! Love the video btw.
Unfortunately the light was a gift and the name has worn off.
I’m glad you liked the videos, thanks for checking in.
Pretty good but you don't need to remove the fuel rails or the fuel line, the lower intake + injectors + rails will come out as an assembly and rotate out of the way. If you do remove the rails, you're supposed to install the injects into the rails and then install the injectors+rail assembly into the manifold. Do not install the injectors into the manifold and then put the rails over them.
Yes, I agree. I could have saved myself some time there. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Great video! looks like my 2017 Pacifica has a blown head gasket and it's out of warranty at 70k miles. I do all my own repairs also, but this looks like a tough one.
Thank you! Too bad about your head gasket, having overhead cams definitely complicates the job.
Same here, blown head gasket at #5 cylinder. How did they diagnose blown head gasket? Just curious to make sure I'm not getting snowed. Recommended total engine replacement...
Love the video, it's very helpful. Unfortunately I have had to take things apart multiple times. For some reason, I am smelling gas after all is back together and running. It runs fine, no issues, but I smell gas. When I initially did it, as I pressed the fuel rail back on, it tore one of the blue o-rings. I replaced the rings and it still smells like gas. When I took it apart, the fule rail dumped gas, and I'm not sure if the gas is just burning off, or if I still have a leak. I don't see anything. But I smell it. Any thoughts?
I would give it a bit since you know you spilled gas. I would think the o-ring replacement should have fixed your problem. That said, gas does evaporate pretty fast so you shouldn’t have a gas smell for long if the leak is stopped.
@@TheLawnEngineer thanks for the reply. I'm thinking either I'm still leaking somewhere, or Evap system bad connection somewhere from moving the hoses and things around.
@@johnbarton1933
Did you get to the bottom of that gas smell?
@seatime674 I guess the gas that leaked out when I pulled the fuel rails had to burn off. After driving for a few days, the gas smell went away. Again, initially, I had one bad oring on the top of one of the fuel injectors. All is running well. Thanks for the follow up.
@@johnbarton1933 Good to know. I'll probably be doing this to my '18 Pacifica this summer. Been doing research I guess you don't have to pop out the fuel injectors just disconnect the fuel rail.. Did you get the Doorman with the cooler or just the holder.. I'm a little leery of these aftermarket jobs like the ones on Amazon or Ebay I may go with OEM I don't know
Im about to do this tomorrow. About how long did it take everyone to do this?
Sorry for the late reply, I have been traveling. How did it go? I would say it took me about 4-5 hours with filming.
Is this the only way there would be oil in the valley? I have a 2018 Pacifica and have replaced the oil cooler. I cleaned out the valley and once the new part was on I drove it and the oil showed back up
It could be a couple of different things. The PCV valve could have failed and oil is being sucked into the intake with some making its way to the valley.
The other possibility is a blown head gasket.
I just bought a 2017 Pacifica from a local dealer and smelled the burning oil/coolant on day 3 of ownership and popped the hood and saw the oil pool below the filter. I was hoping someone was just lazy with previous oil changes but it’s quite a bit of oil so most likely I have the same issue. I guess luckily I purchased a b2b warranty for 7 years/100k miles so I’ll take it in and have them fix it before it gets worse. Really hoping I didn’t just buy a car that’s constantly going to be in the shop though..
Thanks for checking in and sharing. Good luck on collecting on the warranty, please share the outcome. Thanks again.
Did you get that fixed and was it the cooler?
@@seatime674 Yes I did get it fixed and it was the oil filter cooler housing
Great Vlog...So I am in a tough stop. And I suspect Mopar knows very well they have faulty parts, esp. the Oil Cooler. I pulled a code...p0305, had the initial thought and set up appointment to resolve what wa thought to replace coils and plugs. With in a week the engine idled rough and experienced a brief over heat. I immediately pulled over and had it towed to a local shop.
They are saying I need an entire new engine. 14k ....but I don’t think they are capable or took the time to research even though I spoke 0f a common issue relating to the cooling system. I can’t believe the engine is shot, maybe you can speak on it. I am thinking of bringing it home to do s you did, and the a look at the heads...
That is a tough spot. I like your idea of bringing it home or to another mechanic for a second opinion.
I would do some basic health checks…compression testing on each cylinder, inspection coolant/oil for signs of cross contamination
Good luck, major engine and transmission problems are the worst.
Thank you. Sorry to bug again. But what is the red flag/s... that for sure indicate the engine is toast. This seems muddy, and shops are quickly just determining this to generate high dollar/revenue and less tedious and risky repair. It reminds me of the Health Sustem, always opting for surgery when a simple diet change is the fix.
@@tproc6642low compression on one or my cylinders is the big one.
Happy New Year Mr. Lawn Engineer, hope this comments find you. I have a 2018 Pacifica, made with 17 models base. My active grille shutter went bad and triggered CEL. Have you ever encounter that issue with your ownership of Pacifica tyvm.
Happy New Year to you as well. I did not run into any active shutter problems.
I did some quick searching and it looks like the easiest solution is to replace the entire shutter assembly, available on Amazon starting at around $200.
I@@TheLawnEngineer I brought the pigtail connector and thinking should I just replace the connector first, because from my research a lot of people say they found corrosion on the connector. wdyt
Yep, just noticed this problem in ours. Thinking about ditching it, it’s been nothing but problems
I completely understand, this did it for me too.
Thank you for your two videos about smelling coolant and replacing the oil cooler assembly. Some of the comments herein speak of blown head gaskets. Is it possible that enough coolant could be lost from the oil cooler with the result being a blown head gasket?
You’re welcome. Yes, if you loose enough coolant and the engine overheats, the result is often a blown head gasket.
Great video. What are the other issues ? I'm considering the Pacifica as my next car. Coming from BMW, cooling and few other things do not concern me as it is the part of ownership.
The transmission tuning/computer is the vehicle’s primary weakness.
Chrysler Pacifica-Jeep Cherokee 948TE ZF 9 speed Transmission Reset: Fix those harsh shifts
ruclips.net/video/REgRcfIc6Z0/видео.html
So I am also seeing the puddled up oil and am losing just a tiny bit of coolant. I did see an about a quarter size drop of coolant on the garage floor the other day. Do you think this could be a different issue? Thank you for your videos.
It could be a water pump or radiator leak but the oil cooler is definitely the most common.
Hello! Thank you for this clip. I realized I have the same problem. I have a question about this. Does the replacement part still work well? I've heard of cases where non-genuine parts break down after a few thousand kilometers. Please help master!
I didn’t have any problems with it but I got rid of the Pacifica soon after this repair. I just got tired of the repairs 😔
Why the pacificas are having problems with the head gaskets
I’m not positive but I suspect some are overheating due to oil cooler failures.
Can you confirm the part in the link is correct? They are showing it's only compatible up to 2016 model year Chryslers. I have a 2018 Pacifica and the AC just failed at 66k miles. They noticed a small oil leak from that housing and I saw on the forums that the compressor and oil filter housing were the two parts most likely to repeatedly fail. I'm going to be stuck with another POS Chrysler AC Compressor that will likely go out in a few years, but if I can get a better oil filter housing I'm going to do it.
Yes, the part years are confusing because Chrysler changed the sensors but the dimension of the units are the same.
I used this part but had to switch out one of the sensors as I showed in the video.
@@TheLawnEngineer Great - thanks for the clarification! I'll order the aluminum housing and knock out the spark plugs while I'm at it.
@@toofast4radar You're welcome, good luck with the job.
Thank you again for so much information! Will be tackling this job soon. You mentioned that it’s recommended to replace the injector seals?
You’re welcome. You can pull the intake with the fuel rails connected if you disconnect the fuel line and the wires to each injector. If you do what I did, I would recommend new injector o-rings.
Great info. I would love to be a fly on the wall when you speak to the service department at the dealership about that heat shield and oil leak.
Yeah, the conversation after I was hit with the surprise deductible was pretty good…this might even be better.
let's see what we did today
1. The replacement of the oil filter/cooler housing was not successful, because most of the connection interfaces could not be separated, and some of them were disabled by me. Maybe special tools are needed?
2. Thankfully, all the spark plugs were replaced successfully.
3. Cleaned the Valve-PCV by the way, although it was difficult to remove.
I hope you can give some suggestions, thank you!
Were you able to get the pinch clamps moved back on the hoses? There are “hose clamp pliers “ to help with that.
I mean the 6 connectors that link the fuel injectors
The car does not start successfully, gasoline overflows from 6 fuel injectors, what is the reason? Maybe the O ring is damaged？
I watched the relevant video carefully, it may be an installation error.
@@chengtang4878 you do need a fair amount of pressure to get the fuel rails seated down on the injectors. It’s the easiest to put the o-rings on the injectors and then get the fuel rail down.
@TheLawnEngineer how reliable is the oil cooler from gstp auto parts? I have a jeep wrangler with the same problem and I’m debating on buying from them or Dorman. Have you had anything leaks months after installing? Thanks in advance
I did not have any issues. I don’t have the vehicle anymore so I can’t give a long term update.
I will say that the casting was of good quality and the sealing surface was machined flat. It is a big upgrade over the original plastic part.
The Dorman may be even better but without data on failure rates between the two its impossible for me to factually say which is better.
Is the cooler housing not replaceable under warranty?
It should be but I did it on my own after getting the run around.
I don’t have time for the lies and deflection.
my dealer changed 4 rocker arms and it still ticks. I looked at the valve covers and said how did you do that because they were never removed. They lied and I left it there and told them to fix it right. All this under warranty. They didn't think I would check like most people don't and live with the tick. The original RTV sealant was still there never touched and sand and dirt around covers
That is very unfortunate…they are obviously more interested in collecting money than serving their customers.
The oil filter housings are the same on all 2014+ 3.2L/3.6L engines, but the sensors vary by application. You didn't mention it, but the oil temp sensor isn't located in the oil filter housing on the 3rd gen/PUG engines like the Pacifica has. I'm guessing you just left it in there to plug the hole. I knew you'd need to swap the oil pressure sensor before you mentioned it. It's not a bad idea to just replace it because they do sometimes go bad. I'm a bit surprised you're thinking about getting rid of the Pacifica. You really haven't done much actual work to it that I'm aware of. After you replace the PCV valve you shouldn't need to worry about anything major for a very long time. We keep our vehicles until they're wore out. We'll be replacing one soon that we've driven for almost 15 years.
Great summary, thanks for sharing.
I agree about the van, it was pretty reliable and will keep going for many more miles but we decided to take advantage of the high used car prices and let it work for someone else.
X is that a dorman piece???
I didn't use the Dorman unit. The purchase link for what I used is in the video description.
Where is the power steering pump located at on a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
There isn’t one. The electric assist is part of the steering rack assembly. It’s a simplified system with high pressure lines to leak. The downside is, when it goes out, you have to replace the entire unit.
PS, You've done this much work on it. I would keep it. That way if something else goes wrong you can keep us informed😅
It did make good content for the channel 👍
Not a mechanic.. QQ.. After reading Can we start using AT 205 sealant to prevent it from happening in long term without headache of replacing it...
That may help if the seals are what are failing. I don't know for sure, but my theory is that the plastic housing is warping over time.
Around what mileage does the oil cooler leaking issue begin to appear on the Pacifica?
It seems like it’s a wide range, probably depends on heat cycles( warm up - cool downs) and not actual miles. I’ve heard 30k - to never but around 60k I would really start paying attention to it.
@@TheLawnEngineer Already on it. Will do a better inspection this weekend. Thank you for the heads up.
@@Mike_44 you’re welcome, Let me know what you find.
Hi, did it fix the leak. Looks like oil has been leaking through the air manifold gasket too.
It did fix the coolant leak. I traded the vehicle in after a few thousand miles of this fix. There wasn’t a puddle of oil at that time but I agree, the oil in the intake didn’t look great.
Hi, I love your channel. I have Chrysler Pacifica 2018 Touring Limited car. Will this oil filter housing match for my car model? Thank you!!
Yes it is. 2017 and 2018 use the same part.
Great video!!! Could you please tell me where you ordered the oil filter housing for Chrysler 2017? I have Chrysler Pacifica 2018 touring limited.
Thank you. I ordered it from Amazon. There is a link in this video’s description.
Did you drain oil and coolant before removing oil cooler?
Coolant before and oil after. You could drain the oil before too, but you don't have to because it won't leak out during the change of the oil cooler.
What OBDII code reader are you using for any check engine, etc, are you using? Thanks.
I didn’t have any check engine lights with the Pacifica. On other vehicles I have used a Bluetooth OBDII adapter to an android device with the torque pro application.
I want to know if the filter works for Chrysler Pacifica 2019
Yes but you will have to swap sensors like I did.
There's no need to remove the fuel line, one thing you can do to make your life easier is to completey remove the wire harness for the injectors and the coil packs, this makes it easy to replace the lower manifold.
Yes, thanks for sharing.
Did you order your cooler from GSTP? I assume from the video, the aluminum body posed no issue even though it’s listed for 2011-2016 models?
Yes I did. It's the reason I had to change the temperature sensor, but the overall body fits perfectly. The aluminum body for 2017+ doesn't seem to be available which I wanted, so I just swapped the sensors.
I’m in the process of doing this and I notice the is an extra sensor on the new oil filter housing. Just curious if your part had that and what you did with it?
Yes there is, I left it in-place without it plugged in. I guess 2016 and before the sensor was used and 2017 and after, Chrysler relocated it.
i am about to accomplish this procedure on my 2019 Pacifica . the oil filter housing I ordered did not come with any instructions. I was wondering if you might be able to provide a copy of the instructions you got with yours? Or at least provide the Torq specifications and tightening sequence?
BTW Thanks for the videos.
Unfortunately, I don’t have the directions anymore. I’m sorry, wish I would’ve at least taken a photo.
I wonder if the poster is having good luck with his Amazon one?
No problems in the few months I had it after install but then I sold the van.
@@TheLawnEngineer Did you replace it with another make van?
@@seatime674 I went with a Tesla Model Y. We can charge at home, so it's actually been better than expected.
I may have missed it, but what was the mileage on the vehicle when the leak occurred? Was the vehicle ever overheated prior to the oil leak?
Around 85,000 I started smelling coolant. The vehicle was never overheated.
thanks for posting this.. will save. so if and when iI need this on my pacifica, I will reference and save myself some dough$$ thanks
You’re welcome, hopefully you don’t have to deal with it.
How much was this part? Says currently unavailable. There are several aluminum versions on Amazon with varying price points
It was around $90.
@@TheLawnEngineer Thanks. I ordered the Dorman replacement earlier from Amazon $190 plus tax. I have a 17 Grand Caravan GT with 118k miles. This 3.6 is turning me into a part time mechanic but I guess these repairs are straight forward for the most part. I've changed the plugs, thermostat, radiator-hoses, and a few roller rockers and lifters on The firewall side which was by far the most stressful but again relatively straight forward. I wouldn't trust the dealer either.
Q. We replaced oil/cooler your video was great etc. we put everything back together. Now the brake pedal will not depress to start? Any thoughts
That’s odd. The brake pedal won’t move or the sensor isn’t sensing the movement?
@@TheLawnEngineer I am glad you responded. Brake pedal is stiff. And vehicle doing nothing engine wise.
Radio, lights, doors all work but nothing else
@@TheLawnEngineerWatched part where you said May need to prime injectors. Doing that now
The brake pedal will be stiff after disconnecting the vacuum lines and not running the engine. The brake booster is powered by vacuum from the engine.
@@TheLawnEngineerI appreciate help. Had to get to a bday party with kids. Will try tomorrow.
You are appreciated. Videos very detailed
Can you tell me the torq spec used on those 5 bolts holding down the oil filter housing?
I forgot to keep the paper that came with it, but your new housing should tell you because it depends on the material (Plastic or aluminum)
I have a 2019 pacifica and notice that I don't have the top plug on the new oil filter housing. What did you do to the extra top plug?
Are you referring to the sensor? If yes, you can just leave it in place.
Cool, you're very vague. How the hell do you get that piece out? Mine is stuck
Sorry I didn't go over every bolt/nut that has to be removed. It's a balance of time and detail. I'll try to do better in the future.
Do you still own this vehicle? I think my upper radiator hose is leaking where it connects to the radiator. Will I have to take the entire fan out to access the hose?
I do not own the vehicle anymore.
I see I'm not the only one who had their dealer lose the oil pan drain bolt cover. I kept hearing a whistling sound as I drove my van after an oil change at the dealer, and the cover was gone. Ended up having to purchase a new one, and will just do oil changes myself.
Dealer said it was not on them, but I find it funny that the 1 time I let them do the oil change, the cover goes missing.
The mechanics must think it’s an unnecessary part, but they don’t have to drive it and listen to the whistle 😆
Mine wouldn't stay closed. At around 10k miles, it fell down and was scraping the ground. I took it off and never put it back. I'm off now to see if someone made a better latch design 😂
Anyone know the torx socket needed?
E8 torx socket.
i have a question if this is going bad would the car almost overheat and shake cause my mechanic said it needs to be replaced
If this is leaking coolant and it went low, the engine would certainly overheat. Shaking is from overheating, probably did some damage.
That water pump is a pain to replace probably worse than that oil filter housing assembly. It’s sandwiched between the engine and engine mount.
That is one major downside to a transverse engine layout.
I agree with you about laziness when it comes to the fastening of panels where the customer can’t see. I have a 2019 MX-5 which has a metal stiffener panel under the engine with eight bolts. The panel is meant to give structural stiffness because the car is a convertible. Anyways I took my car to a quick change oil place once. The very next oil change I did myself. And I discovered when they reinstalled the panel they only put four bolts, one at each corner. I drove up there that day and had a talk with the manager. We talked about the shabby work and the theft of my hardware. I literally told him you stole parts from my vehicle. They offered to make it right and gave me a free oil change and replaced the hardware and guess what happened? They reinstalled the panel and I can hear them using an air ratchet. I had to yell at them to stop. I’m like, what are you doing? You going to pay to put helicoils in those bolt holes when you strip them out🙄. Needless to say I avoid mechanic shops if I can help it. The quality is not there. Back to that Pacifica oil filter housing, you can literally change that out, fuel injectors, coil packs, PCV for $300. Pacifica yes is probably a maintenance pig but it’s pretty cheap to repair if you can do the work yourself.
How has the knock off replacement assembly held up so far? I need to replace mine for my cherokee and im looking at $300. Your link is less than $100. Is 8t working?
It worked out well for me but I sold the Pacifica a few months after installing. It seemed like an improvement over the plastic one, but I just got tired of working on the van.
@@TheLawnEngineer lol I saw that you sold it in other comments.
Hello what's the torque for the housing torx screws
I'd tried to torque one up to 106 inch pounds but it didn't make it..
Thanks for advance
It should be 106 inch-lbs or 8.8 ft-lbs. that is what I did and didn’t have any problems.
Do you have to drain the oil first?
No, all of the oil is in the pan.
@@TheLawnEngineer that’s what I was thinking after I asked that lol. Thanks for reply sir!
i have a 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan i did this job there's no need to take off the fuel rails off
Thanks for sharing, that would make life a bit easier
Thanks for Pacifica videos… but did you sold your Pacifica? 😢
I did sell my Pacifica. I can’t say that I miss it either 🙃
@@TheLawnEngineer I know this sounds odd but WHY? too much quality issues?
Yes, I just had enough of the maintenance and used prices were pretty high at the time.
Why would Chrysler/Dodge make their engines like that? I won't be messing a Pacifica now.
Great question. I guaranteed that an engineer didn’t say: let’s make this critical component that sits in the engine valley out of plastic. It sounds like a classic case of management and marketing pushing for cost reduction and higher margins.
Did you end up selling it?
Yes, I sold it just shy of 100k miles when used prices were high.
Pro tip: Take off your underbody shields everytime before taking your vehicle into the shop.
That is a pain but a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Sorry to bug you but I need help with a question. I serviced my 2017 Pacifica just recently. I replaced the oil filter housing, spark plugs, PCV valve, and the radiator all at once. The car runs really smooth and no hiccups in disassembly and assembly.
However the check engine light came on. I wonder if this happens after such service without cause for concern? Did that happen to you as well?
No, the light should not come on. It's likely a sensor connection. I would suggest getting the code read for free at a parts store and see what it says. It won't tell you exactly what the problem is, but will point you in the right direction.
Let me know what the code is and I can try to help point you in the right direction.
@@TheLawnEngineer hi, thank you so much. You prompted me to run to Walmart and get an OBDII scanner real quick. I found code P1404 which is the EGR valve. Here's some context:
When removing the upper intake manifold i noticed it being very difficult with that curved bracket, stud and EGR valve. I don't have good strength so I couldn't pull off the hose on the EGR valve. Hence I removed the 3 nuts that connect the valve to the manifold and pulled the entire valve unit off. I decided to clean the soot and carbon inside it after removal and it was the only thing I gave my dad to do. He didn't use any solvent just blue rags to clean.
I did buy a new EGR valve gasket for reassembly onto the manifold.
Maybe my dad inadvertently got some carbon in the wrong place of the valve? Not sure what solvent to use for cleaning it. Thanks for any help in advance!
I cleaned the EGR valve with carb cleaner thoroughly, reinstalled but unfortunately the code still pops right back up even after clearing it
@@nyer070 that’s what I would have done too. It may be the electrical connection, did you check that out?
@@TheLawnEngineer thank you. Yes I checked the electrical connector and they look to be ok. I'm wondering if there is a relearning procedure or something after cleaning the EGR valve. I did have to disconnect my battery terminals to get better access for the EGR valve installation after I cleaned it this morning but it may have been for 5 or so minutes, not sure if that's long enough to reset the ECU which could fix this?
Been a year since your last vid. Still got the Pacifica?
I sold the Pacifica to Carvana, thanks for checking in.
@@TheLawnEngineer were you able to resolve rough idle issues?
@@RollsCanardly-fv9ks I was happy with it after this video: ruclips.net/video/jS3nRZAaUFk/видео.html
@@TheLawnEngineer thanks! Wasn't sure if you did plugs and coil packs first or did, as I do, being a former gunsmith, and perform the cheapest remedies first and work to more expensive.
How remove clips on the inyectors?
There is a small catch that you need to gently pry up. A small flat head screwdriver or a paint can opener. The difficult part is the catch is oriented down, that is why the paint can tool is helpful.
Why hasn’t someone come up with a by pass kit
That would be a great improvement.
Decent video but a lot of opinions. Definitely could be better from a technical point. Also not super sure of the aluminum part. Overall this is not an easy job if you want it done right.
Not an easy job
Blown head gasket for me. The amount of money I'm going to put into this, I'm ready to get rid of it but unfortunately for us we are not at a place to do that. Cheapest option is engine replacement , if you just fix the head gasket you run the risk of bearing failure down the road and more time and $$$.
Oh man that stinks, thanks for leaving a comment. It might help others dealing with a similar issue.
How did you know it was a blown head gasket. I have this same leak and my mechanic replaced the oil cooler with the aluminum one and it’s still leaking. Could this be my issue?
Same issue with my 18 Pacifica, 83k mile and overheated, blown head gasket, and wraped block. Searching for a replacement motor now. If you smell coolant, definitely have the oil cooler inspected.
If you're going to do a video do it properly show how many bolts there are for the coolant housing as well as the torque spec
Ok, thanks for the feedback
In my experience oil cooler should be original from mopar. Other non oem coolers start leaking in couple months.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you see any failed aluminum housings?
Just looking at this engine layout and design, it's a mess. Not something I look forward to dealing with long term. Van's been working for our use but we have very low miles on it.
Yes, it sure makes some simple maintenance like spark plugs a painful process.
Yeah pain in the butt for sure. Doing it now
Best of luck on the repair!
I will never buy a dodge product again because of the pentastar 3.6 motor. I have 54K miles on mine and my Rockers are bad and trying to get them replaced under 5 year 60k. Mechanic are incompetent. 5 days in the shop and counting.
Unfortunately, this seems to be a problem across many brands…poop sandwich
Lol can't find the torque specs anywhere and everyone skips over it or just does it without saying anything
Yeah, I was going to add it in text to the video but I forgot the exact spec and I lost the piece of paper it was on. Instead of guessing at one, I left it out.
@@TheLawnEngineer i finally did it. changed it out after i had a massive oil leak. all my seals where melted or pinched but i got it in
Great job, it’s a difficult task.