How to Replace Oil Filter & Cooler Housing 5th Generation Caravan
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2020
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New Oil Filter Housing & Cooler Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/MPEOC00004
If the oil cooler and filter assembly has begun to leak, is clogged, or is otherwise problematic, you may find your vehicle losing oil or coolant, which could lead to engine failure. This video shows you how to install a new oil cooler and filter housing assembly in your 2011-13 Dodge Caravan.
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• Check here for more videos on the 2008-19 Dodge Grand Caravan: • Dodge Grand Caravan 20...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Dodge Grand Caravan
2009 Dodge Grand Caravan
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan
2012 Dodge Grand Caravan
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
2014 Dodge Grand Caravan
2015 Dodge Grand Caravan
2016 Dodge Grand Caravan
2017 Dodge Grand Caravan
2018 Dodge Grand Caravan
2019 Dodge Grand Caravan
2020 Dodge Grand Caravan
Tools you will need:
• Pocket Screwdriver
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ofw/1AXAA00020
• 13mm Wrench 1aau.to/ofz/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oqp/1AXAA00017
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oqp/1AXAA00017
• Air Blow Gun
• Air Compressor
• Coolant Funnel Set 1aau.to/oq/1AXAA00116
• Coolant Pressure Tester
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/of3/1AXXX00006
• Vacuum
• Hose Clamp Pliers 1aau.to/oY/1AXAA00076
• Push Pin Pliers
• E8 Inverted Torx Socket
• Ratchet 1aau.to/ou6/1AXAA00016
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/omW/1AXAA00044
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/oc4/1AXSS00035
• Silicone Paste
• Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper 1aau.to/oau/1AXAA00280
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2008-2019 5th Gen: • Dodge Grand Caravan 20...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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Your videos rock
Thanks. I followed this plan and completed the job in 6 hours. I used the Dorman aluminum housing. One note, you only need to remove the 2 10mm bolts
on the front brackets. Once the rear bracket is removed, the upper manifold will swing up and slide out of the 2 front brackets
Thanks for this vid! Got the $100 Amazon all aluminum upgraded part and probably watched four times over and even paused and went step by step while doing this job on our 2012 Chrysler TnC. Up and running again after gushing coolant out of this housing and barely limping home. The kids are happily transporting 165lbs of food to Cub Scouts right this minute! :) Oh, and btw I used a 1/4" socket instead of 'inverted torx' and it worked fine for me.
great video, referred to AGAIN to refresh my memory on the right steps. actually did it in March of 2021, had to replace again in Dec 2022, used an aluminum one now, so hoping that isn't as defective as these crappy plastic ones. Two years later and this is still the best video out there for this repair. thanks!
I'm using an aluminum one as well! Hopefully it holds
Just finished doin mine. Only took about 2 hours and was easier than I figured it would be. Runs like new and isn't leaking a drop now. It was leaking about a quart of oil every ten miles. Not now. Thks for the video
Had yours thrown the engine code for low oil pressure? Mine has and the engine has an occasional shutter.
In a league of your own young man very well Illustrated and I'm impressed that you're actually doing it correctly so many of the videos out there performing the same task and none of them that I have viewed are using torque specs and then they wonder why they have to do it five times
Best video on this subject. Excellent camera work and good graphics for torque sequence. Saved the day. Keep up the good work
Great video. I really appreciate the effort. Finished mine yesterday with only minimal 4 letter words used. As a side note... I was able to remove the upper manifold without removing the front two brackets. I simply removed the nuts on the front and removed the entire rear bracket and it slips right out. Unless I’m missing something I did not see a reason to remove these brackets. Saves a lot of headache. Especially if you have big hands.
I figured that out after struggling with one of the brackets. Maybe shop manual says to do that, but not necessary at all IMO.
@@atxfalcon8813 I just finished also. I did not loosen the brackets either. Totally unnecessary. Didn't even require any prying to get the upper back on with the brackets in place.
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Same here.
Thank you so much for showing me how to install this part , I'm poor and you saved me money
Thank you! I LITERALLY could not have done this repair without the video! I recommend anyone trying this for themselves start with those two front brackets -- they will be by far the hardest parts to get out and, if you have the patience to do those, you'll be able to do the rest easily... as long as you follow this video.
Raising the front end, even on jack stands will make those two/bolts studs more accessible from the bottom than from the top. Or you may want to removed the radiator fan (more time consuming, but doable and frees up space (I didn't)).
I do believe I'm going to go like some of your other videos, simply because I can't give this one more than a single 'like'.
as others have commented you don't even need to remove them or even loosen them. It wasn't a big deal you just place the studs through the holes first then line everything up. Easy.
Thanks! Used this the whole way. The under-29-minute video made me confident I could get it done quick. I was wrong, but I did get it done, lol.
This is an excellent video done by a true mechanic. Thanks
Trq DIY Videos are the best. They have saved me thousands of dollars. I replaced my brakes watching the video. Thanks Guys
Thanks for the detailed instructions especially the torque specs for all bolts and socket sizes used throughout. As others have said the front brackets do not need to be removed. Just to two front bracket upper/top bolts and the upper intake bolt stems will slide right out. The first time I had this replaced not at a dealership but one of my local reputable repair places I was charged around $900. They used a Mopar OEM filter housing which itself was $414 plus around $300 labor plus another $60 for the intake gasket set.
Much appreciate how you stress not to let anything drop into the engine. That could be game over😮
Thanks for the video. Just did this today and your step-by-step is great. In particular, appreciate that you did the re-assembly part (with the graphics on the order). Lots of videos will just say to do it backwards from pulling it apart but it was very helpful to have the whole process.
Thank you for making this video, it was extremely helpful. I’ve watched a lot of videos on tutorials. No unnecessary chatting about personal things or irrelevant things. Very professional, and informative.
Great work and thank you again for the effort on making this
The best video about replace cooler. For me I've also removed fan to have more space for my hands. Very good job!
Thanks for this video. This was my first time replacing something that wasn’t the battery. The step by step instructions were so easy.
Great video! This is the most detailed video i could find covering the lower intake manifold gasket replacement. Thanks for the thorough video, I am more confident to tackle this job!
+Stevensly Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Absolutely beautiful! Best teaching video I’ve seen on RUclips. Well Done! SUBSCRIBED!!!
This video made it very easy to understand what I needed to do to complete the task. Thanks for your help.
great instructions thank you. i did on my 2012 GC couple of notes from my findings:
front brackets and wiring harness did NOT need to come off and on mine that passenger side stud bolt is damn near impossible.
change plugs if you have intake off
drain oil before you start repairs, will save you a mess
don’t need to drain coolant unless you need to get the top radiator hose outta the way
+roytube10 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I thought the coolant had to be drained because it might have oil in it.
Thank you. I had a question of the best method (quickest to the oil cooler, without damaging or unnecessary teardown) and I only watched a few minutes but your video perfectly answered how to pull the fuel rail and best practice on removing the oil cooler component.
You saved me 30 minutes, and I felt it justified spending 2 minutes to let you know.
+1985ThePedro Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great step by step video.
There are two harness clips on the power plenum which was not shown in this video. They need to be detached.
The two front brackets are definitely the most difficult part of this job.
I recommend detaching the upper rad hose to get better access.
I used a flex head spark plug ratchet and a deep socket to remove the passenger side lower bolt.
Also the rear bracket power bolt is very easy to lose. I still cant find mine which fell into the lower control arm never to be seen again.
Finally budget about an hour to clean the valley under the oil cooler ensuring the intake cavities are blocked with clean paper towel or rags. It was an absolute mess.
Dude, you're great. Probably this video will save me $800+
Great video and very well edited. I loved it. Thanks a lot. One thing that might be a mute point after 1 year of this video being uploaded but you forgot to plug the two connectors for the oil filter housing @ 15:22.
Excellent video, walks you step-by-step, very helpful.
Thanks for the video helped a lot I would just like to add that you do not have to take the front brackets loose just take off the two nuts.
Just take off the bracket in the back
Great video. Followed along. After fighting with the front bracket removal, I finally realized you don't actually have to remove them. There is enough clearance to easily get the upper intake bracket studs to engage the front brackets. Just wanted to pass along.
Thanks for this video, made the work go way faster!
Great video! Thank you for the help! I was able to bypass having to take off the front brackets.
Thanks took about 4 hrs...great video
Grate step by step direction ..!!! Thank you to take time and do all that .
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the video. In doing mine, I found out you don't have to remove the front brackets - just the rear bracket - then pull the intake manifold toward the rear as you lift and the front screws will slide out. Just remove the two front nuts.
+wubanchi Ethiopia Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
nn2022 so on the front brackets you say to not remove them, but mention removing 2 front nuts. You mean the nut holding the cooler line to the stud and which other nut on the front?
@@st0n3r78 no for future diyers. The two front nuts on the studs for the intake plenum brackets are what hold the plenum at the front. They are beneath the upper radiator hose. If you take of everything stated in the video but instead of removing the entire front two brackets, you remove the front two 10mm nuts instead, you will be able to lift the plenum up and back and slide the two studs out of the holes on the brackets.
ALSO *pay attention to the two "petetongs" the tech mentions on the throttle body attachment to the air box intake tube. The rubber grommets that the petetongs push into may stay on the actual petetongs when you initially remove the black plastic piece that attaches to the throttle body.
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE TO ANYONE WHO ISN’T MECHANICALLY INCLINED BUT IS LOOKING TO TAKE THIS ON- You can get away without taking off the entire bracket but MAKE SURE you put the studs through the brackets when installing it. I didn’t (a major mistake on my end) and it broke the lower manifold since it wasn’t lined up right. Just had to order a 150 part off a website to fix it. Still about 400 dollars under what a mechanic would’ve cost but it was a stupid rookie mistake and it was costly.
Thank you for this video. I truly believe this particular part was engineered to ensure a costly dealer repair.
Great video. I’m going to swap my oil filter housing tomorrow.
Awesome video... The bolt sequence and torque specs are appreciated ...
best lecture for DIYs, thank you!
Excellent video, one of the best instructional videos I've seen, great job!
+Scott Pearce Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This video is very helpful because i have to do the same thing to my van and you and this video was perfect thank you
You don't need to remove any of the front brackets , Just did the work and all you do is remove rear bracket and slide bolts into the front holes.
Amazing job walking you through very helpful
I replaced mine with Dorman made with aluminum cheap than mopar crap. Fits fine and never worry of breaking plastic
I just did the same thing.
Really appreciate the video, on my 2015 GC i did not have to remove the front brackets or their bottom bolts/ nuts
Thank u so much I do it alone and follow your instructions is very important follow the instructions or the cup no closed perfect
Thanks for the incredibly helpful video!
Thank you a very informative video I appreciate it.
hay really like the video real informative. i like that u took ur time and showed all the steps that need to be done to fix it correctly. im a tech and i need to see what all needed to be done to do the job.
+MrChasBestChance Auto sales/repair Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thank you! Worked perfectly as you described.
Thank you so much! I am so tired of half-done videos where no torque specs or tightening order is provided.
Second time doing this. Torqued the filter cap to tight both times and cracked the housing. Bought an aluminum unit and will be extremely diligent with torque . Thank you sooooo much.
Thx for the essential info, good vid.
amazing, just got all the information,well done
+Omar Barcelo Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This guy is Soo good I want the whole world 🌍 to watch
Nice to see that even the experts have trouble with those hose clamps!
Thank you for the Great video!! A life saver !!
Great video, just ordered the part last night. Wished the aluminum Dorman version went back to the 11-13 models but oh well. I highly recommend in your pinned comment to list the tools you used. I had to rewatch many times to catch what you were using. Ive already had to replace my trans cooler aka condenser and so glad i did compared to dealer quoted price. Ill be doing this on my own in a few weeks, outside of coolant and tools, do you recommend anything else on standby?
Awesome video!
Great video, don’t remove the mounting brackets though just the bolts and the upper manifold will come off
Anytime I’m scraping with a razor blade in a situation like that are usually hold the blade in one hand and the vacuum and the other so it sucks up any debris immediately
Dude, I was thinking the same thing!
Thank you for the video ! Its very helpful 🙏
+M hd Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Perfect vid my dude! Props!!!
Excellent video
great video !! question : after I replaced the oil housing i dont have enough heat , and when i drive over 60 mph , temperature gauge goes up ...
Great video!
16:03 Great video! Curious, did you have any rotation before reaching the torque value while using the torque wrench? That battery driver looked like it made the fasteners fairly tight.
Great video. Anyone can do this. Watch this video, buy all of the stuff you don’t have, and take your time.
Great demonstration procedure, @ 15.21 in your video I noticed the oil temp. sensor was not reconnected, did you had to go back to redo it?
Great help
Hi. Job done, thanks for the video. **BUT** I forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose leading to the brake booster. Van ran well for a few minutes, then started to surge. Had a closer look and spotted the disconnected hose. Van running very well now, but I have a P2173 code (Throttle Actuator Control System - High Airflow Detected). Is this likely related to the hose being off temporarily? Thanks .
My next project is the Transmission fluid pressure sensor/ switch G circuit PO83B. Do you have a video on that or could you let me know where it is and how to change it? Thanks
What is an inverted torx socket and what size do I need
Благодарю!!!! Очень информативно.
My mom took her 2013 to a instant oil change and 2 days later I noticed oil under it. I looked and oil was standing on the engine it's pouring about 2 quarts every 3 days out. It's in my garage and I'm gonna change the housing Tomorrow. Lucky me. Lol
Great video sir, how many hours approximately it would take to do all you did in this video?
thanks for the video save me lots at money
+Henry Castaneda Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
awesome video , i would like to try on my but it seems difficult to me , do you know how much it cost this repair?
I've got my new cooler hooked up but I cannot get the 'oil tube' (tube under filter housing) pushedcall the way down. I see a lip in the port the tube supposed to sit on but I cannot physically push it down all the way. Do I tighten the bolts to pull this down?
Thank you so much for dis amazing video just mad me save 1000 dollers thanks buddy for dis beautiful video just fixed my familys van
Hello. Thanks for the video. I broke connector under the oil filter housing. Could you please help me? I do not know what it called and how can I find it. Thanks.
Good video
I am at the step of fastening the upper intake manifold: Do you get the bolts all the way down to flush with the plastic before torquing? You fasten down with impact gun and then torque it. I ratcheted down to flush before torquing. HOWEVER, my torque wrench did not register the proper torque. I obviously torqued down too much so I loosened all bolts and started over. I am very skiddish to stripping the bolts and not doing this correctly. Please give me some feedback. I need more detail on how the bolts feel while fastening them in. I dont know what im doing wrong. It doesnt feel right.
Do you need to drain the coolant to change the oil filter housing?
Very nice
Total newbie here with a question - Do we need to drain the oil from the engine before this repair?
I just did mine but didn’t drain the coolant. Am I in trouble ? What should I do ?
I plan to do it myself. Does anyone know why we need to do a pressure test on the cooling system? Is it a mandatory step after the oil house changing?
Did you have to drain the oil or coolant? I have a 2015 200 that needs the oil cooler replaced
I am struggling so much to get the air intake back into place. Do the grommets rest on the pylons or do the pylons actually insert into something?
I changed mine an I still have smoke coming from that area yes I changed it correct say perfectly any ideas why it’s still smoking
Which holes in the engine are coolant holes and which are oil holes? The big one on the right is probably coolant. Is the second big one, the left most one, also coolant hole?
great video! can't wait to do this. now do you have to drain coolant?
Yes
Im kind scared to do this myself. Do you think its easy for diy? I chnaged my tipm module alone and did fine. Just not sure about this.
Awesome video! What size inverted torx socket did you use on the oil cooler?
E8
Thank you for this video. I had the oil cooler in my 2012 Caravan replaced a few weeks ago and now I have a coolant leak. It looks to be coming from the area of the oil filter. Is there coolant going through the oil cooler or the intake that you have removed. I'm wondering if a mistake in this repair could cause a water leak?
Yes coolant runs through the oil cooler.
I am replacing the oil filter cooler adapter housing on my 2015 Town and country. I have watched several other you tube video's on this same subject and three of those specified
71 inch pounds for the torque on the lower intake manifold. All the engines were 3.6L Pentastar engines. Is it possible there is a difference? Really enjoyed this video, one of the best and easy to follow. Thanks.
I have 2 other sources, one being a Haynes repair manual for 2008-2012 Dodge GC and Chrysler T&C, that say 89 and 86 (Haynes) in-lbs for the upper manifold and 80 and 62 in-lbs (Haynes) for the lower. I'm not sure what to believe. Most of the other torque specs are consistent, but not these.
I am having trouble with this as well.
My lower intake manifold cracked at 106 inch pounds, wouldn't you know it, on the last bolt!
I have 2017 dodge grand caravan this is the same process correct?
Is it true this breaks every year? Just replaced mine on a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan😬
Hi gentlemen! This video is fantastic, and I've followed it to the letter of the law. However, as I was burping the system, my oil light came on. I checked the dipstick, and it looks good. The only thing that was a little different, was my cooler came WITH the two pieces that screw into it (oil pressure switch?), there are three things that go into the new part, two plugs, and a rubber hose. I had to screw in the areas where my plugs go. Any ideas where to start? Thanks.
I’d bet you got the wrong year part that requires a different oil filter to create oil pressure
Does the oil need to be drained also or just the coolant to change the oil cooler