It's very important for ebike riders to know that just because a bike has a 500 watt or 750 watt rated motor does not mean that the bike's battery or the bike's controller are actually putting out 500 or 750 watts. In order to truly know how much power is flowing to the motor, you need an independent current meter.
Busting out your DMM is certainly an idea but really the manufacturers should publish the microcontroller configuration and relevant electrical performance data. Info like this is almost always documented somewhere.
12 degrees for a 1,760ft (1/3 mile) is not too far off the peak angle and total length of my driveway to put this in perspective. What would really be useful is a 1 to 3 mile long 12 degree constant climb, where the motor's ability to produce power and do the climb would also be tempered and tested with the heat of the motor possibly shutting down the bike as well. Doing this with each bike and the same rider / load would give a much more standardized test and help people select the best bike for their application. I live in a rather hilly area and I am not a small guy (100 kilo) and an amputee to boot (above knee) so power is far more important to me than the average rider, I need more help climbing than most since I only have 1 leg to pedal with. Having a known standard for comparison on bikes would be very beneficial to me in choosing a bike (were I still looking, I chose to build my own).
Your use case is not typical. When traveling up long hills at slow speeds, initially hub motors can do quite well, their mass will absorb the heat generated sufficiently. But eventually, the heat will build up, and they they may either cut out or damage themselves. Too much heat can burn the insulation off the field coils, or even demagnetize the magnets a bit leading to reduced output. I think with your disability, it would benefit you to have a throttle as there will be many times when your legs are not in the position to produce torque, and this can save you. Since the hills you want to climb are long and steep, I would look for a bike with a mid-drive motor with a throttle as well as pedal assist. The company Bafang makes mid drive motors that fit this specification. They make DIY conversion kits as well as recently motors that can be used for purpose built bikes. The end result is not necessarily less expensive, but the motors have a reputation for being very powerful, which in your case I would want. Good luck.
Build a cyclone mid drive. build it as a single speed with a 14 tooth on the motor and 26 tooth on the wheel. Only use 1/2 x 1/8 chain and sprockets. It will tear up a 3/32 set in minutes. Get a 72 volt 30 amp hour battery. You will have all the power you can handle at roughly 20 plus mph, and it will make that speed up hills. Never a need to pedal. I have my cranks so that they both point down moped style. Much more comfortable. In your case, you can cut off the crank on your amputee side.
@@eideticgoone7035 My current ride is an ICE Adventure HD recumbent trike. I have a modified Bafang mid drive Small Block motor kit from lightningrodev. I am still trying to get the rest of the unit built (battery and lights etc), presently I am looking to install a Rohloff speedhub to allow for shifting while stopped, to help me launch without burning up the motor when forced to stop without down shifting first. I do have both a hand throttle and pedal sensors, and if I can ever squeeze together the cash for a proper battery I should have a nice ride, even climbing the hills I have to deal with here, with 1500 watts of mid drive. Presently I am stuck til I get a new prosthetic leg, which is being held up by red tape in the VA system.
Happy to know you decided to make your own bike, i think is the best approach, would really like to know how it goes and if any help needed I know some about ebike with special needs so glad if i can help
You perpetuate the mistaken theory that electric motors are commonly rated as to producing "X" amount of power in watts. Absolute Nonsense. 250 watts 500 watts 750 watts 1000 watts Controllers (CONTROLLERS) are rated for WATTS. Electric motors are rated as to how much Torque they produce TORQUE. NOT WATTS>
The hill tests are full of good information, but I wonder how reliable these hub motors are? Some guy on RUclips said he is an e-bike mechanic and sees a lot more hub motor failures than mid drive motors. I guess because its much easier to lug a hub motor and see higher motor temperatures than on a mid drive motor.
A direct drive hub motor requires the least amount of maintenance because there’s no moving parts. The hub motors he’s reviewing on these bikes are called geared hub motors and the gears are typically made of plastic nylon so they wear out over time. Hub motors are actually very cheap so if you do burn one up it’s very easy to swap it out. Mid drive motors require way more maintenance because you’re involving the drive train which was not intended for the power of a motor. The chain stretches the gears wear out etc. quicker. I’ve built several E bikes and I love direct drive hub motors but with lots of power. Most production E bikes are all geared hub motors unless they’re mid drive.
@@eastwood111 the direct drive is pretty much bomb proof, and if you get it with lots of power it can be a great choice. Have you heard of the all new dual motor Juggernaut XD from Biktrix XD?
I am brand new to all of this. I have been trying to put together a spreadsheet to help me decide which bike is best for me. I have zero knowledge of the difference between 250W, 500W & 750W hub motors. My intuition tells me that 750W is way better than 250W. I am looking for a video that will explain this specifically, whether it's on hills or elsewhere.
The higher the wattage, the more overall power. The performance is better, but you're also drawing more power from the battery, which means less range.
@@Danktendo Um. I guess 48v or higher? My 48v/14ah battery seems to suit my 750w mid drive just fine. I don't know if a front hub motor would make any difference or not. I'm still new at all of this, I'm learning as I go along.
@@SynthApprentice I, too am new to this but have been researching. The bike I'm going to test ride is 48v/14ah battery with a 750w HUB motor, but it is single gear. I am trying to get a bead on whether it will be sufficient on occasional steep hills. I fear that it will lack enough torque with only a single gear. Will be test riding very soon.
When you look at specs of faster speed of the higher watt motors to see it is only a few extra mph from 22 to 24. You assume it should be faster but it is your weight and extra cargo you thinking of using bike that fits the RIGHT TYPE OF WATT. If you weigh 200 .lbs it is best to get a 500watt or higher. If ya weight is A BUCK TWENTY fit is 250 to 350 watt unless you want fast because you will go faster at that weight on 500, 750 and up. The lighter people will take 500 and up motors top speed by 5 notches of MPH. The higher the WATT means the higher the torque NM or the stronger it will pull off weight, especially use of constant hill climbing/
The speed is restricted by the fact that it is going uphill so probably won't reach the lower class 2 limit let alone the higher class 3 limit. I would test the difference between class 2 and class 3 on level ground.
So, even though I can probably get by with a 500watt engine - At around 270lbs - I would probably be better off with a 750 even though they weigh more.
How do I find out what my controller is for my ebike? It has dual hub 500 watt bafangs. I was wondering if I could upgrade to 750 watt bafangs for more hill climbing power.
You can check out the specs page from the bike manufacturer, but you may need to contact them directly. Depending on the brand, it's usually about 50/50 whether or not it's included.
@@ElectricBikeReport from the specs on their website it’s kinda vague about some of the parts. I do know it’s a 48 volt 20 amp battery. So I may just call them and ask on the controller part
I made a DIY 350watt Gear( gear ⚙️ can go long distance( 20mph) all the way to battery use but very slow on hills) with a 2000 watt Gearless ⚙️ Turbo Hyper Drive Booster( power speed of 40 and up but can't go full throttle of a 4 to 5 miles trip of motor cutting off for a bit to cool down , great on hills of going over 34mph and higher) with this set up I can go long distance of a very high speed of 40mph without the Gearless cut off cool down. This set up should be the standard set up for not only novice e bikers but also for pro builds or factory made. A lot of practical positives and minimum cons as most DIY Duals ppl make are overkill of not being practical of more being obstacles of the weight, energy consumption, brake system and frame wear and abuse.
Its possible that you will exceed the BMS current limits when riding full out and the BMS will cut off the battery output when the controller asks for more than 20a. If you have an LCD display that allows to limit the current from the controller, then just set this to be less than 20 amps. You could replace the BMS with a 25 or 30 amp BMS. Open the hailong case, and see what cells you have. Look up the max and steady current ratings on the cells, by googling the cells and looking at a "data sheet" for the cells. Multiply this rating by the number of cells in parallel to determine what current your batteries will tolerate comfortably. The 20 a BMS may be under the capabilities of the cells because the battery maker want's to prevent warranty issues, and/or to save a few bucks on the BMS.
Is it better to have a higher voltage or wattage? Where should I focus more when it comes to hills? Like would it be enough with a 48v 750w? Or is it just too much and I'd be save with a 36v 500w? Thank you
N(power) = I (Amps) x U (volts) so for power you watch Watt number but it is all relative the motor is one component battery other and the bike itself third how many speed the bike has how big (small) wheels it has road bikes have an advantage on flat roads mountain bikes, on the other hand, have advantages on macadam and steep slopes motor power is important, but not the most important whether the bike fits your height and weight?
Se han fijado que todos los vídeos, de bicicletas eléctricas de fábricas o hechas en casa, Nunca los muestran en subidas muy empinadas, solo en terrenos planos (Llanos), o en bajadas, y de forma de subidas muy empinadas, se puede ver la potencia y el rendimiento real de esos motores eléctricos,🤔🙄🙄❓❓❓.
That's exactly what I want to see too. A small 250watt mid mounted motor with long endurance, that can take advantage of the bike's gears: thus produce 80-90nm of torque like you say, way more than the usual 50 or 60 of most hub motors.
I go up some pretty gnarly hills on a 500. I just don't like it to strain like like they do. Top speed is less important I just don't want to feel like I'm heating up the motor by strain.
500w is it geared hub or direct drive? you cannot compare 2 different types of motor 750w is 100% geared hub and geared hub motor are superior with hill climbing and have great torque compared to DD... Direct drive last longer because less moving parts and are great for higher constant speed but sucks accelerating from 0 eating battery like crazy if you don't at least give some pedal boost... if rear wheel is free and go easy it is geared hub... if rear wheel is hard to pedal without electricity then it is direct drive... one more thing DD charge battery back GH not.
It's about time someone brought up the geared vs direct drive hub motors. I need an ebike to get through the up and down hills from my house to town, so I prefer a lower max speed geared motor over a higher speed direct drive. I just ordered a bike with a 500W 20mph max speed hub motor. Hopefully it is geared and not a direct drive limited by the controller. I don't know because the information that is available for ebikes is pathetic. When you buy a non-ebike, like a Trek, they provide detailed specs. Ebikes should do the same with details like the manufacturer and model numbers of the battery and motor.
Yes for (now) and future transportation . (Depend where you live on earth...) 25 km/h was not stupid, it need à registration, regulation for who doesn't care of the law. A little bit slower but safer was better for everyone... ;)
Why wouldnt you call it Hell HILL. Hell Hole? Come on guys, its a hill not a "hole" A 500 watt motor is plenty, just pedal more and stop using it like a scooter?
@@ElectricBikeReport Fair enough. Off topic, but are you guys going to be doing a review on the new ADDMOTOR City Pro?! I havnt seen one youtuber review on it yet.
@@ElectricBikeReport if you need max torque on mountains, you must have your 1000W in normal 26inch x 2,3inch, or even 20inch x 3inch wheels, but if you need horizontal max speed, then you need only 750W in 29inch x 2,1 inch in country, or 26 inch x 2,3inch wheels- in city...
Interesting and thoughtful analysis guys, as always. Somewhat off topic, but Tower builds and promotes this step thru as a women's bike, so the appeal is limited to half the potential market.
We don't love the "step-thrus are for girls" narative that still lingers in the industry. The EBR staff typically prefers ST models to the high step counterpart. STs are for everybody!
E-Bike Question of the Day ⚡🚴 What matters the most to you when it comes to the motor on your e-bike? Let us know in the comments below 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
sped
Climbing & reliability. If I can get speed in there which is not difficult depending on what type of motor you choose.
Riding an e-bike is like jogging on a Segway.
Most people use these for hills, so its actually very important.
It's certainly among the larger aspects of their appeal for many riders.
Exactly!
Indeed, i live on Mt Everist been looking for a decent Ebike for where i live
It's very important for ebike riders to know that just because a bike has a 500 watt or 750 watt rated motor does not mean that the bike's battery or the bike's controller are actually putting out 500 or 750 watts. In order to truly know how much power is flowing to the motor, you need an independent current meter.
Busting out your DMM is certainly an idea but really the manufacturers should publish the microcontroller configuration and relevant electrical performance data. Info like this is almost always documented somewhere.
@@thebravesirrobin. I think manufacturers often want to boast and exaggerate, so I don't trust them. I'd like independent and objective numbers.
12 degrees for a 1,760ft (1/3 mile) is not too far off the peak angle and total length of my driveway to put this in perspective.
What would really be useful is a 1 to 3 mile long 12 degree constant climb, where the motor's ability to produce power and do the climb would also be tempered and tested with the heat of the motor possibly shutting down the bike as well. Doing this with each bike and the same rider / load would give a much more standardized test and help people select the best bike for their application.
I live in a rather hilly area and I am not a small guy (100 kilo) and an amputee to boot (above knee) so power is far more important to me than the average rider, I need more help climbing than most since I only have 1 leg to pedal with. Having a known standard for comparison on bikes would be very beneficial to me in choosing a bike (were I still looking, I chose to build my own).
Your use case is not typical. When traveling up long hills at slow speeds, initially hub motors can do quite well, their mass will absorb the heat generated sufficiently. But eventually, the heat will build up, and they they may either cut out or damage themselves. Too much heat can burn the insulation off the field coils, or even demagnetize the magnets a bit leading to reduced output.
I think with your disability, it would benefit you to have a throttle as there will be many times when your legs are not in the position to produce torque, and this can save you.
Since the hills you want to climb are long and steep, I would look for a bike with a mid-drive motor with a throttle as well as pedal assist. The company Bafang makes mid drive motors that fit this specification.
They make DIY conversion kits as well as recently motors that can be used for purpose built bikes. The end result is not necessarily less expensive, but the motors have a reputation for being very powerful, which in your case I would want.
Good luck.
Build a cyclone mid drive. build it as a single speed with a 14 tooth on the motor and 26 tooth on the wheel. Only use 1/2 x 1/8 chain and sprockets. It will tear up a 3/32 set in minutes. Get a 72 volt 30 amp hour battery. You will have all the power you can handle at roughly 20 plus mph, and it will make that speed up hills. Never a need to pedal. I have my cranks so that they both point down moped style. Much more comfortable. In your case, you can cut off the crank on your amputee side.
@@eideticgoone7035 My current ride is an ICE Adventure HD recumbent trike. I have a modified Bafang mid drive Small Block motor kit from lightningrodev. I am still trying to get the rest of the unit built (battery and lights etc), presently I am looking to install a Rohloff speedhub to allow for shifting while stopped, to help me launch without burning up the motor when forced to stop without down shifting first.
I do have both a hand throttle and pedal sensors, and if I can ever squeeze together the cash for a proper battery I should have a nice ride, even climbing the hills I have to deal with here, with 1500 watts of mid drive. Presently I am stuck til I get a new prosthetic leg, which is being held up by red tape in the VA system.
Happy to know you decided to make your own bike, i think is the best approach, would really like to know how it goes and if any help needed I know some about ebike with special needs so glad if i can help
You perpetuate the mistaken theory that electric motors are commonly rated as to producing "X" amount of power in watts. Absolute Nonsense. 250 watts 500 watts 750 watts 1000 watts Controllers (CONTROLLERS) are rated for WATTS. Electric motors are rated as to how much Torque they produce TORQUE. NOT WATTS>
Mine have 43tq and 500W, but problem is sustained power. Motor after few minutes of big incline turns off
250w is simply not enough for steep hills. The bare minimum is 500w but for people who weight over 220lbs you will need 750w minimum.
I have zero problem with my Avadar C3 (250 W/ 80 Nm/16-speed) riding 11 miles a day with an 1860 ft elevation gain. Zero.
BTW, most 750 W hub motors generate approximately the same 80 Nm of torque.
250w works just fine for steep hills unless the person is really overweight.
The hill tests are full of good information, but I wonder how reliable these hub motors are? Some guy on RUclips said he is an e-bike mechanic and sees a lot more hub motor failures than mid drive motors. I guess because its much easier to lug a hub motor and see higher motor temperatures than on a mid drive motor.
A direct drive hub motor requires the least amount of maintenance because there’s no moving parts. The hub motors he’s reviewing on these bikes are called geared hub motors and the gears are typically made of plastic nylon so they wear out over time. Hub motors are actually very cheap so if you do burn one up it’s very easy to swap it out. Mid drive motors require way more maintenance because you’re involving the drive train which was not intended for the power of a motor. The chain stretches the gears wear out etc. quicker.
I’ve built several E bikes and I love direct drive hub motors but with lots of power. Most production E bikes are all geared hub motors unless they’re mid drive.
@@eastwood111 the direct drive is pretty much bomb proof, and if you get it with lots of power it can be a great choice. Have you heard of the all new dual motor Juggernaut XD from Biktrix XD?
I am brand new to all of this. I have been trying to put together a spreadsheet to help me decide which bike is best for me. I have zero knowledge of the difference between 250W, 500W & 750W hub motors. My intuition tells me that 750W is way better than 250W. I am looking for a video that will explain this specifically, whether it's on hills or elsewhere.
The higher the wattage, the more overall power. The performance is better, but you're also drawing more power from the battery, which means less range.
@@SynthApprentice what battery would you recommend
For a 750 front wheel ebike I’m building?
@@Danktendo Um. I guess 48v or higher? My 48v/14ah battery seems to suit my 750w mid drive just fine. I don't know if a front hub motor would make any difference or not. I'm still new at all of this, I'm learning as I go along.
@@SynthApprentice I, too am new to this but have been researching. The bike I'm going to test ride is 48v/14ah battery with a 750w HUB motor, but it is single gear. I am trying to get a bead on whether it will be sufficient on occasional steep hills. I fear that it will lack enough torque with only a single gear. Will be test riding very soon.
When you look at specs of faster speed of the higher watt motors to see it is only a few extra mph from 22 to 24. You assume it should be faster but it is your weight and extra cargo you thinking of using bike that fits the RIGHT TYPE OF WATT. If you weigh 200 .lbs it is best to get a 500watt or higher. If ya weight is A BUCK TWENTY fit is 250 to 350 watt unless you want fast because you will go faster at that weight on 500, 750 and up. The lighter people will take 500 and up motors top speed by 5 notches of MPH. The higher the WATT means the higher the torque NM or the stronger it will pull off weight, especially use of constant hill climbing/
The speed is restricted by the fact that it is going uphill so probably won't reach the lower class 2 limit let alone the higher class 3 limit.
I would test the difference between class 2 and class 3 on level ground.
on a hill it is difficult to help the hub motor, what a tilt sensor would do would be good, I don't know if this would be possible
So, even though I can probably get by with a 500watt engine - At around 270lbs - I would probably be better off with a 750 even though they weigh more.
How do I find out what my controller is for my ebike? It has dual hub 500 watt bafangs. I was wondering if I could upgrade to 750 watt bafangs for more hill climbing power.
You can check out the specs page from the bike manufacturer, but you may need to contact them directly. Depending on the brand, it's usually about 50/50 whether or not it's included.
@@ElectricBikeReport from the specs on their website it’s kinda vague about some of the parts. I do know it’s a 48 volt 20 amp battery. So I may just call them and ask on the controller part
My bike is a krusader dual 500 watt bafangs. Can I swap out for 750?
which one consume more energy?
A 750W motor can consume more energy, but the programming of the bike's controller and what PAS setting you use are also contributing factors.
These hills were so flat... I have steep ass hills here.
Voltage as well since some bikes come with 36v even on 500w motors.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thanks, Clerisson!
I made a DIY 350watt Gear( gear ⚙️ can go long distance( 20mph) all the way to battery use but very slow on hills) with a 2000 watt Gearless ⚙️ Turbo Hyper Drive Booster( power speed of 40 and up but can't go full throttle of a 4 to 5 miles trip of motor cutting off for a bit to cool down , great on hills of going over 34mph and higher) with this set up I can go long distance of a very high speed of 40mph without the Gearless cut off cool down. This set up should be the standard set up for not only novice e bikers but also for pro builds or factory made. A lot of practical positives and minimum cons as most DIY Duals ppl make are overkill of not being practical of more being obstacles of the weight, energy consumption, brake system and frame wear and abuse.
Hi I have a question ? My battery hailong 15.5 ah max current 20 a What happens if I connect a 22 a controller?
Its possible that you will exceed the BMS current limits when riding full out and the BMS will cut off the battery output when the controller asks for more than 20a. If you have an LCD display that allows to limit the current from the controller, then just set this to be less than 20 amps. You could replace the BMS with a 25 or 30 amp BMS. Open the hailong case, and see what cells you have. Look up the max and steady current ratings on the cells, by googling the cells and looking at a "data sheet" for the cells. Multiply this rating by the number of cells in parallel to determine what current your batteries will tolerate comfortably.
The 20 a BMS may be under the capabilities of the cells because the battery maker want's to prevent warranty issues, and/or to save a few bucks on the BMS.
Is it better to have a higher voltage or wattage? Where should I focus more when it comes to hills? Like would it be enough with a 48v 750w? Or is it just too much and I'd be save with a 36v 500w?
Thank you
N(power) = I (Amps) x U (volts)
so
for power you watch Watt number
but it is all relative
the motor is one component
battery other
and the bike itself third
how many speed the bike has
how big (small) wheels it has
road bikes have an advantage on flat roads
mountain bikes, on the other hand, have advantages on macadam and steep slopes
motor power is important, but not the most important
whether the bike fits your height and weight?
Will you guys be testing out the Dual Drive Juggernaut XD from Biktrix?
Nothing in the works on it yet
Random question, but what is the name of this song that plays during the testing?
Generic angry American shit nr5336
Se han fijado que todos los vídeos, de bicicletas eléctricas de fábricas o hechas en casa, Nunca los muestran en subidas muy empinadas, solo en terrenos planos (Llanos), o en bajadas, y de forma de subidas muy empinadas, se puede ver la potencia y el rendimiento real de esos motores eléctricos,🤔🙄🙄❓❓❓.
PLEASE let's see a test of the Avadar C3 250 Watt mid-drive that produces 80 Nm torque and sports a 16 speed Alevio drive train.
That's exactly what I want to see too. A small 250watt mid mounted motor with long endurance, that can take advantage of the bike's gears: thus produce 80-90nm of torque like you say, way more than the usual 50 or 60 of most hub motors.
Isn't it more exciting to focus on Nm?
What motor do they have?
Did not get a prize
Get some acoustic music in the future. I'm a metal head but get a headache from this generic distorted trash.
Noted!
@@ElectricBikeReport Awesome production of content btw. Much apprechiated. 🙏
No music is best. Want to be able to hear bike noise from working parts
I go up some pretty gnarly hills on a 500. I just don't like it to strain like like they do. Top speed is less important I just don't want to feel like I'm heating up the motor by strain.
Love selling ebikes at work haha
500w is it geared hub or direct drive? you cannot compare 2 different types of motor 750w is 100% geared hub and geared hub motor are superior with hill climbing and have great torque compared to DD... Direct drive last longer because less moving parts and are great for higher constant speed but sucks accelerating from 0 eating battery like crazy if you don't at least give some pedal boost... if rear wheel is free and go easy it is geared hub... if rear wheel is hard to pedal without electricity then it is direct drive... one more thing DD charge battery back GH not.
It's about time someone brought up the geared vs direct drive hub motors. I need an ebike to get through the up and down hills from my house to town, so I prefer a lower max speed geared motor over a higher speed direct drive. I just ordered a bike with a 500W 20mph max speed hub motor. Hopefully it is geared and not a direct drive limited by the controller. I don't know because the information that is available for ebikes is pathetic. When you buy a non-ebike, like a Trek, they provide detailed specs. Ebikes should do the same with details like the manufacturer and model numbers of the battery and motor.
@@sandsleeper3124 geared are small in diameter and similar sizes to eachother, direct drives are huge in diameter and stand out, hope this helps
The big secret is to use your legs !!! If you do so like i do then with a 29inch 750 hub motor can climb 20% or even more ...uphill !
Crying in european where almost only 250w motors are available...
You know you can buy a separate kit, and battery right?
@@plumetheum7017 sure, but it's way more convenient just to buy a ready bicycle...
@@felixonrails Is spending an extra 3000+ Euros really worth saving an hour of wrenching?
Yeah im in uk all the same BUT eb sre much cheaper than in the u.s.
ELECTRIC EVs are the future!
Stupid laws here in the uk. 25kmh is fastests allowed on public roads.
Yes for (now) and future transportation . (Depend where you live on earth...) 25 km/h was not stupid, it need à registration, regulation for who doesn't care of the law. A little bit slower but safer was better for everyone... ;)
Let's show me nothing
Wonder if you can hack a ebike and make it go faster
does the cost matter? LOL, 500w vs 750w is a big chunk of change. maybe pedal faster and bring an extra gatorade.
Nice job hiding the crawling by using fast forward editing. 😂
Is the loud annoying repitious noise a youtube requirement?
Lol
I’m constantly hearing twerk
Why wouldnt you call it Hell HILL. Hell Hole? Come on guys, its a hill not a "hole" A 500 watt motor is plenty, just pedal more and stop using it like a scooter?
The trailhead is actually called Hell Hole haha 🤷
@@ElectricBikeReport Fair enough. Off topic, but are you guys going to be doing a review on the new ADDMOTOR City Pro?! I havnt seen one youtuber review on it yet.
750W is very good, but 1000W is better...
Watts aren't everything! We've tested a few 1000W motors that didn't perform as well as many 750Ws.
@@ElectricBikeReport if you need max torque on mountains, you must have your 1000W in normal 26inch x 2,3inch, or even 20inch x 3inch wheels, but if you need horizontal max speed, then you need only 750W in 29inch x 2,1 inch in country, or 26 inch x 2,3inch wheels- in city...
Interesting and thoughtful analysis guys, as always.
Somewhat off topic, but Tower builds and promotes this step thru as a women's bike, so the appeal is limited to half the potential market.
We don't love the "step-thrus are for girls" narative that still lingers in the industry. The EBR staff typically prefers ST models to the high step counterpart. STs are for everybody!
@@ElectricBikeReport Amen!
Why why every 1 plays music how you know i like your music cant watch sry